Rare Sport At Ohonoo
Approached from the northward, Ohonoo, midway cloven down to the sea,
one half a level plain; the other, three mountain terraces—Ohonoo looks
like the first steps of a gigantic way to the sun. And such, if
Braid-Beard spoke truth, it had formerly been.
“Ere Mardi was made,” said that true old chronicler, “Vivo, one of the
genii, built a ladder of mountains whereby to go up and go down. And of
this ladder, the island of Ohonoo was the base. But wandering here and
there, incognito in a vapor, so much wickedness did Vivo spy out, that
in high dudgeon he hurried up his ladder, knocking the mountains from
under him as he went. These here and there fell into the lagoon,
forming many isles, now green and luxuriant; which, with those
sprouting from seeds dropped by a bird from the moon, comprise all the
groups in the reef.”
Surely, oh, surely, if I live till Mardi be forgotten by Mardi, I shall
not forget the sight that greeted us, as we drew nigh the shores of
this same island of Ohonoo; for was not all Ohonoo bathing in the surf
of the sea?
But let the picture be painted.
Where eastward the ocean rolls surging against the outer reef of Mardi,
there, facing a flood-gate in the barrier, stands cloven Ohonoo; her
plains sloping outward to the sea, her mountains a bulwark behind. As
at Juam, where the wild billows from seaward roll in upon its cliffs;
much more at Ohonoo, in billowy battalions charge they hotly into the
lagoon, and fall on the isle like an army from the deep. But charge
they never so boldly, and charge they forever, old Ohonoo gallantly
throws them back till all before her is one scud and rack. So charged
the bright billows of cuirassiers at Waterloo: so hurled them off the
long line of living walls, whose base was as the sea-beach,
wreck-strown, in a gale.
Without the break in the reef wide banks of coral shelve off, creating
the bar, where the waves muster for the onset, thundering in
water-bolts, that shake the whole reef, till its very spray trembles.
And then is it, that the swimmers of Ohonoo most delight to gambol in
the surf.
For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in
length; the width of a man’s body; convex on both sides; highly
polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation;
invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling
of the owner.
Ranged on the beach, the bathers, by hundreds dash in; and diving under
the swells, make straight for the outer sea, pausing not till the
comparatively smooth expanse beyond has been gained. Here, throwing
themselves upon their boards, tranquilly they wait for a billow that
suits. Snatching them up, it hurries them landward, volume and speed
both increasing, till it races along a watery wall, like the smooth,
awful verge of Niagara. Hanging over this scroll, looking down from it
as from a precipice, the bathers halloo; every limb in motion to
preserve their place on the very crest of the wave. Should they fall
behind, the squadrons that follow would whelm them; dismounted, and
thrown forward, as certainly would they be run over by the steed they
ride. ’Tis like charging at the head of cavalry: you must on.
An expert swimmer shifts his position on his plank; now half striding
it; and anon, like a rider in the ring, poising himself upright in the
scud, coming on like a man in the air.
At last all is lost in scud and vapor, as the overgrown billow bursts
like a bomb. Adroitly emerging, the swimmers thread their way out; and
like seals at the Orkneys, stand dripping upon the shore.
Landing in smooth water, some distance from the scene, we strolled
forward; and meeting a group resting, inquired for Uhia, their king. He
was pointed out in the foam. But presently drawing nigh, he embraced
Media, bidding all welcome.
The bathing over, and evening at hand, Uhia and his subjects repaired
to their canoes; and we to ours.
Landing at another quarter of the island, we journeyed up a valley
called Monlova, and were soon housed in a very pleasant retreat of our
host.
Soon supper was spread. But though the viands were rare, and the red
wine went round and round like a foaming bay horse in the ring; yet we
marked, that despite the stimulus of his day’s good sport, and the
stimulus of his brave good cheer, Uhia our host was moody and still.
Said Babbalanja “My lord, he fills wine cups for others to quaff.”
But whispered King Media, “Though Uhia be sad, be we merry, merry men.”
And merry some were, and merrily went to their mats.