the vehicle which has maintained the proper side of the roadway has the
advantage in case of legal controversy. In passing a vehicle drawn by
horses, the bicycle should keep to the centre of the roadway when
possible, leaving the curb for the horse-drawn vehicle. The bicycle can
only draw away from the curb, and is limited to one direction. The
centre of the roadway, therefore, affords the best opportunity for a
change of direction.
Sit well on your saddle, observe the adjustment of the centre of
gravity, but ride on the pedals, using the weight as much as possible.
Trust to the pedals only for rough riding and for unexpected
inequalities of surface. The study of the mechanics of balance,
resistance, and friction is most interesting in this connection, as
their action affects cycler or wheel or the combined mechanisms.
The law of the road is simple and very generally understood, though
there are reckless and ignorant people who disregard it. The law defines
where you shall ride, how you shall pass, and sets a limit to increase
of speed beyond what is considered compatible with the general safety.
There is, besides, the unwritten law of courtesy, more often observed
than disregarded; and there is the law you make for yourself.
The traffic of a crowded thoroughfare may be analyzed, and the conduct
of a wheel explained and simplified, though travel on such routes is
difficult at best and had better be avoided. Given a long, straight
road, with two streams of travel from opposite directions. One of these
streams will consist of vehicles, quadrupeds, and pedestrians, few
maintaining an even rate of progress, fewer still the same rate. The law
requires that you pass on the left, and you must await the opportunity
to do so. When a clear way opens, take immediate advantage of it, and
increase your speed. Should there not be room enough to pass, signal,
and the vehicle in advance is bound to make way for you. Should there be
a free road to the right, you may take it, but only with the consent of
the traveller ahead, and then at your own risk.
Never ride more than two abreast. Riding in single file, with ample room
for turning, is better on a crowded street or when making time. For
moderate wheeling, the cyclists being disciplined and drilled, the
distance between bicycles may be shortened. But control of the wheel
should be absolute before this is attempted. When travelling at even a
moderate rate of speed, a certain distance between wheels should be
observed. When in single file, turn on the same line, but not at the
same time as the leader. Inexperienced wheelers are apt to turn at the
moment the wheel ahead turns. Should you be following close, keep on
your own line, unless you see good cause to change your direction. If
the leader wishes to stop, let him turn out: if you are wanted, you will
know soon enough. Gain all the distance you can between dismounts. A
little drill and the understanding of a few signals will prove very
useful.
For the public at large, the bicycle may be specialized to suit
individual needs, and locomotion becomes simplified, distances are
reduced, and the obliterated landscape of railroad travel takes form and
substance. Cycling means travel over well-constructed highways, with
telephone and telegraph, post-office and express office, usually easily
accessible. To enjoy the full freedom that wheeling should give, little
luggage should be carried, yet that little must include all necessaries.
When a party of six or even twelve start to wheel a given distance, what
are the problems to be met? All being fairly expert cyclists, in good
practice, sociability is incidental while making time. On the road
attention, strict attention, to business and to the signals is
necessary. Conversation is not prohibited; it is entirely dependent upon
the nature of the surface you are travelling.
How to keep together is a vexed question, and a very nice adjustment of
animate and inanimate mechanism would be necessary to its satisfactory
settlement. The better way is, all knowing the road, to wheel along
independently, with an occasional halt, not necessarily a dismount,
assembling at intervals of half or three-quarters of an hour. The leader
should keep back until the roller of the party is hailed, and has
reported, then increase speed again until the next interval has elapsed.
Another plan is to wheel with only a given number of minutes headway,
this arrangement keeping the roller-up always within hailing distance.
A good leader deserves implicit confidence. He has responsibilities
aside from wheeling, for the comfort and convenience of others must be
intelligently studied, and consideration for each individual cyclist in
the party makes constant demand on the qualities of tact and decision;
in other words, the leader must possess good judgment and be as well a
thorough bicyclist.
The present rate of wheeling averages ten miles an hour, and greater
speed is undesirable, except for special purposes. A point to keep in
mind is that every five minutes’ halt is a mile lost. The time lost in
slowing and stopping should also be carefully taken, as it is of value
in reckoning possible mileage.
There are grades to hesitate about, and there are grades to avoid. If a
grade seems possible, try it, but dismount the instant it becomes hard
work. It is better to dismount too soon than to persist too long.
Without regard to the inclination, there are two principal kinds of
grades--the increased grade and the decreased grade. In mounting the
increased grade, more and more power is required at every stroke to push
the machine upward. In mounting the decreased grade, this additional
power is not necessary, and the ascent is accomplished with little
fatigue. Increase of grade means application of more power in ascending,
and an increase of momentum in descending. This is on the whole the most
dangerous kind of bicycle travel; for over-work on the ascent, loss of
pedals or dangerous coasting on the descent, are to be expected, and
danger should be looked for, and observed in time to be avoided.
It is always well to walk an increasing grade, if the hill be long and
steep, both in ascending and descending. The decreasing grade has many
pleasant features, and on a well-known road may be ridden up or down
with ease and with little danger of injury. It is interesting to watch
the effect of individual adjustment to hill-work, a group of bicyclists
being almost always scattered when mounting a grade.
When and where to apply power and when to make the push tell best on his
own machine, each cyclist must determine by practice and experience.
Sometimes a long and apparently easy down-grade is rendered dangerous by
its increase of pitch; and seemingly easy roads are often difficult to
travel on account of an increasing but almost imperceptible ascent.
Unless power is applied to the stroke at the right place, much
inconvenience from fatigue will be felt, and will soon overcome the
ambitious bicyclist.
When short expeditions are to be undertaken--all trips of more than an
hour’s duration being so classed--remember that lack of preparation
means delay, and that ignorance entails discomfort. If the start is to
be an early one, go over the bicycle carefully, see that the lamp is in
order, that matches are convenient, tools and repair-kit in place, a
small envelope of sewing materials with needle and thread and another of
red-cross supplies in the pocket.
I have often been laughed at for taking out my lamp for a short
afternoon’s ride with friends who could ride well enough for their own
satisfaction; and as often have I been obliged to help with my lantern’s
light belated wheels coming in close behind me. A lantern is a
convenience at dusk, or even earlier, enabling others to see and avoid
you; and this helps more than the uncertain light annoys.
For luncheon on a short trip, it is quite safe to depend on the road; if
you carry luncheon, a couple of bread-and-butter sandwiches well wrapped
in waterproof paper, and thin slices of cheese in a separate paper, or
hard chocolate and water-biscuit, are as good as anything; and such a
luncheon may prevent delay in swampy or foggy or damp country from
becoming dangerous.
Study the country you are to travel and the road-surface, understand
your map, know your route, its general direction, etc. Always observe
the road you cover; keep a small note-book, and jot down everything of
interest. Use the pocket-compass, even in your home locality, to fix
general direction; for when detained at night, such knowledge may prove
useful. Fog and rain or a moonless night are bewildering, rendering
familiar roads weird and strange; and, unlike the driver or equestrian
in the dark, a bicyclist must trust to himself alone. Wheeling in the
dark, however, has some advantages, as you are apt to ride in a straight
line, and not turn out for bad places in the road; on the other hand, a
certain amount of risk is necessarily taken. There should be no close
riding, and constant care should be exercised for the avoidance of
collision.
Cycling offers endless opportunities for the formation of clubs, and
cycling clubs there are of all ages and sizes. A simple form of club for
the earlier phases of the sport may be organized in this way: Buy two
bicycles, and form as small a club as can manage their purchase. Keep a
register, and pass the bicycles from member to member, for say a week at
a time, repairs in case of accident to be paid for by the member using
the wheel at the time of the accident. The club may later be enlarged by
receiving any desired number of members and purchasing additional wheels
in proportion. But nothing is so satisfactory as a chosen mount of your
own, adjusted to suit your individual needs and kept for your own
exclusive use. A bicycle exactly adjusted to your liking should be
jealously devoted to your individual use. A beautiful machine should be
kept free from finger-marks. Keep a chamois and a clean piece of
cheese-cloth at hand where it is kept, and use them. Nickel holds its
polish if not attacked by acid or grease. Enamel should be treated
differently, with cold water, sponge and chamois, after light dusting.
_CHAPTER VIII._
_The Art of Wheeling a Bicycle._
There are three very important methods of controlling the bicycle,
namely, steering by the hands, guiding by foot-pressure on the pedals,
and guiding by the swaying of the body; and these methods may be used
separately or in combination.
The wheels are kept in motion either by pedaling, or simply by gravity
in descending a grade. The use of the hands on the handle-bar is
two-fold for the inexperienced--for steering and for correcting undue
pressure on the pedals. The hand opposite the pedal that receives too
much pressure corrects the tendency of the bicycle by an extra pull on
the handle-bars. This is very good exercise, but it is a useless
expenditure of force, and cannot be prolonged without great fatigue. It
is the work of hill-climbing done on the level. The feet are on the
pedals, and the natural tendency is to press equally at all times on
both pedals and pull at the same time on both handles. One pedal must
descend, and the other pedal must ascend; they are attached to the same
axle, which is turned by either pedal or both pedals. As the pedals are
always on opposite sides of a circle, one is always coming up, and its
upward tendency is resisted by any pressure, however slight. The
lifting of the foot, therefore, from the ascending pedal means easy
wheeling. This is one of the hardest things to realize. If there is
little or no pressure to resist from the up-coming pedal, it is
necessary to expend but little force to propel or push the down pedal;
only enough, indeed, to overcome the weight or inertia of the bicycle
and the bicyclist and of surface friction, provided there is no grade.
But of grades, there are many; and to this is due the infinite variety
of the sport of cycling, the muscular development and increased
respiration of the cycler.
[Illustration: CORRECT PEDALING.]
The handle-bars should at all times be ready to receive a sudden grip or
squeeze. Grip the handles hard when you want to hold on, and only pull
as much as is absolutely necessary; for if the arms are stiff and rigid
from pulling on the bars, they will not be sensitive enough to control
the bicycle. The handles of the bar are the ends of a pair of levers;
and the nearer the hand to the centre of the bar, the less power is
needed to oppose the other hand. When there is a tendency to pull hard
on the handles, gradually slip the hands near the middle of the bar, and
the pull will ease up. The front wheel, to run easily, should run
steadily; and the less wiggle there is, the better for steady travel.
The pedal is the projection on the crank adapted to the use of the foot.
There are many varieties of pedals, of differing sorts, weights,
patterns, and purposes. The foot placed on the pedal pushes it down; the
push is communicated to the wheel to propel the bicycle forward. As the
pedal leaves the dead centre, the power begins to take effect, and
continues until the dead centre below is reached. Now, it is necessary
to push at just the right time and place; if too soon and too hard, the
wheels of the bicycle will go too fast, and must be retarded by pressing
down on the up-coming pedal. The natural weight pressure of the foot is
more than enough to propel the bicycle over ordinary surfaces at a fair
rate of speed, without the application of great muscular power.
The foot should be placed squarely on the pedal, the ball of the foot
only resting on it, and the toe pointing downward. The foot may be made
to perform divers duties, and numberless new combinations of pressure
can be and are called for and applied.
To apply more power in the stroke, begin to push when the pedal is all
the way up, the toe pointing down until at the lowest part of the
stroke, ready to follow the pedal around, pushing it backwards, and
helping to lift it. Here the toe-clip helps, and holds the foot on the
pedal, in the place where the tendency to leave it is greatest. Balanced
pedaling is a little different, and weight-pressure on the pedal is used
as a factor to overcome the front wheel.
Use the weight as much as possible to propel, and reserve the push for
hard grade-work. Keep the knees well turned in; it squares the foot and
prevents the ankle from receiving hard knocks. When the knee is turned
out, the ankle bones are turned in, and so receive many a bruise that
could have been avoided. To keep the ankles from interfering, turn
the knees in, and ride square leg.
[Illustration: FOLLOWING PEDAL.]
Controlling a bicycle on a down-grade requires pressure on the ascending
pedal. Point the heel down or hold the toe up, and an even pressure will
be maintained. Let the lift come with the heel well squared and the leg
as straight as possible, the weight to be supplied at the right point on
the up stroke to control the machine. Always use the weight when
possible as a supplementary driving power.
The pedals differ in construction and in material, being differently
adapted for racing and for road work. A pedal with a good broad resting
surface for the foot is very comfortable, though a “rat-trap” pedal used
with a stiff-soled shoe is lighter and preferable. Toe-clips are
desirable for those who can use them easily, but for a novice they are
dangerous, being liable to cause the mishaps they are intended to
prevent. Experienced bicyclers prefer any discomfort to that of a lost
pedal, and when wheeling with only a light, even pressure, toe-clips are
good reminders; but their principal use is to apply more power and help
the foot to carry the pedal around and back.
The swaying of the body controls the bicycle from the saddle. In walking
the bicycle about, it is soon perceived that it may be directed by
holding the saddle only. The pressure comes from the saddle, and the
bicycle is swayed by the rider, by leg pressure against the saddle.
There is little or no shoulder movement, and the body, though flexible,
does not move perceptibly. When starting a machine, hold it well
balanced by the handle-bars, and know how much inclination to allow.
Take hold, and mount steadily and easily, and move off quietly, noting
the running of the bicycle. Gradually increase the speed, leaning a
little forward to lessen any sudden strain and to help the push on the
pedals. Then increase the stroke to the desired speed, and the machine
will take care of itself. Speed power may be increased, and it is good
practice to slow, and start again at will.
Figure wheeling, with a good leader, is capital practice to insure
steadiness and increase the power of control over the bicycle. It is not
easy to stop suddenly when going at a good rate of speed, and it is well
to know your limit of distance in such case; nor is it easy to spring
alertly from the saddle when bringing up in a dangerous position, even
when frightened into doing it. Back pedal hard, grip with the hands and
press down, holding the bicycle still as you reach the ground. The
pedals will not get in the way, and it is well to remember not to let go
of the machine if you do not want to get hurt. To jump off and hold the
bicycle still may at times prevent collisions.
The cyclist, however sure of his skill, should not throw his machine at
any one, even inadvertently. There is much unnecessarily fine riding
done--dashing between two passing vehicles, for instance, or rushing
through a gap instead of wheeling slowly behind a wagon until an open
space is reached; but some prefer the stimulation and excitement of
danger to safety, and like to perform such hazardous feats.
[Illustration: LIFTING.]
Steering is a subject for serious consideration; a sharp eye, quick
determination, constant care, and a steady hand are needed. A knowledge
of steering is essential for safe coasting; and as one of the pleasures
of cycling is to descend easily the hill you have climbed, a fair degree
of steadiness should be attained. Brakes are important aids. Learn to
brake with the foot, but do not resort to this expedient unless
compelled to.
Now to consider hill-work. The resistance of the grade is always
perceptible; it is not always recognized. As the angle of ascent
increases, the powers of the bicyclist are taxed.
The spindle of the pedal describes a circle. The foot part of the pedal
revolves around the spindle, and permits the foot to take any angle that
is needed for the best application of power, the plane always, however,
remaining parallel with the spindle. This arrangement of the pedal
allows of ankle-motion within certain limits; and to give greater
efficiency, the foot and ankle may move in adjustment with the weight
and power to be applied. This is the much-talked-of ankle-motion. The
pressure may be applied to the pedal by this ankle-motion at any part or
at all parts of the circle that the pedal describes.
As constructed, the pedal permits free ankle and instep movement,
prevents cramping of the foot, and allows the foot the same freedom that
it has in walking or running. Ease of work depends on proper application
of power. To be able to apply just the right amount of push to carry the
crank past the dead centre, and to pull it past the lowest dead centre,
and to follow the pedal accurately, is the aim of all good pedal work.
The push down is almost instinctive; but the lifting of the weight from
the ascending pedal can be acquired only by practice, when the muscles
have become sufficiently accustomed to the work to move without the
effort of mental concentration that they seem to require in the
beginning.
The power of the stroke may be given by applying the weight after the
dead centre is passed.
The weight should be entirely removed from the ascending pedal, and the
balance and sway used to take the pull off the handle-bars by throwing
the weight from side to side for that purpose. The weight and balance
should be directed in this way: If the push on the down pedal only is
used, it must be corrected by a pull on the handle; this pull increases
as the grade obstructs the wheel. Skilful hill-work shows in the
lessened pull on the handles.
In travelling on the level, the ascending foot is pushed up, and rested
by being lifted. There is no reason why the pushing muscles should be
stronger than the lifting muscles of the leg except that they are
accustomed to do more work.
Always try to ride a hill, but never begin by looking at the top to see
how far off it is. Pay no more attention to the surface than is
absolutely required by the nature of the surface. Concentrate all
thought on the pedals and how best to push or take the pull off the
handle-bars. Lean a little forward if necessary, and do not try to
increase the stroke. The number of strokes is bound to lessen if the
power is not increased proportionately on the ascent. And how can the
power be effectively applied unless the work is done intelligently by
mental application, or instinctively by the use of accustomed muscles?
[Illustration: BACK PEDALING.]
Hills should be ridden easily, or not ridden at all. It is easier to
wheel up an ascent than to walk up, if the wheeling is properly done.
Always stop before the hill proves too much for you. Never think any
incline too steep to attempt; this is the first move on the road to
successful hill-climbing.
The seat for hill-work should be made to support the body. The bicyclist
should not be obliged to cling to the handles to keep from slipping off
over the saddle; there should be something else to push against. To get
all possible power out of the levers, there should be a sufficiency of
fulcrum for the lever to work against; and the saddle should certainly
be made to do duty in hill-work.
If there is no support from the rear of the saddle, the fulcrum must be
located at the handle-bars, which should have all possible strain
removed from them to lessen the pedal work. A saddle placed at this
angle is of little use as a fulcrum on an incline. In all work, levers
and fulcrums are kept in position by the hands, unless the weight is
supported from the saddle. If this principle of the application of power
is considered, the usual difficulty of hill-climbing is overcome. Why
should it be harder to wheel up hill than to walk up and push a bicycle?
In the first place, it is necessary to be able to stay on the bicycle
without holding yourself on; in the next place, to know how to apply the
power; and then to perform the work, keeping all essential points well
in mind. Wheel up hill with the mouth shut, or get off; wheel slowly;
concentrate power to apply it most effectively.
Power is needed in overcoming both the crank dead centres. The weight
should be applied to force the crank downward, and the weight lifted to
let the other crank rise. The body sways to ease the handle pull, and
the bicycle mounts steadily. The inertia, of course, becomes more
apparent as the weight is resisted by gravity; so do not attempt to
force or strain, with the idea that hill-climbing is something that must
be done. It should be done only when it can be done easily.
The rule for climbing universally recommended reads, “Pay no attention
to the hills. Ride them.” This is good as far as it goes, but it is of
little assistance in mounting an incline.
There are two kinds of grades independent of the angle--the increase
grade and the decrease grade, in ascending, and in descending as well;
for descending is only the reverse of ascending. In approaching an
ascending grade, always note its character, whether long or short, what
the pitch is, and particularly if the angle of ascent increases or
decreases at the top of the incline, and prepare for the work before
you.
[Illustration: BACK PEDALING--SHOWING DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT.]
Each hill has its peculiarities, which must be studied and conquered.
The actual mounting to the top is not all you have to do; you should
mount in proper trim, arriving at the summit fresh and fit. It is most
saddening to see some one else mount a hill easily, leaving you,
puffing and pushing, half way up, and to know that, when you reach the
top, speechless and exhausted, that exasperating person will be seated
there, cool, contemplative, and comfortable.