Madge stood still, her face towards the wall, so that he cou

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CHAMBERS’S JOURNAL

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LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART

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NO. 25.—VOL. I. SATURDAY, JUNE 21, 1884. PRICE 1½_d._]

NATURE ON THE ROOF.

BY RICHARD JEFFERIES,

AUTHOR OF THE ‘GAMEKEEPER AT HOME,’ ETC.

Increased activity on the housetop marks the approach of spring

and summer exactly as in the woods and hedges, for the roof has

its migrants, its semi-migrants, and its residents. When the first

dandelion is opening on a sheltered bank, and the pale-blue field

veronica flowers in the waste corner, the whistle of the starling comes

from his favourite ledge. Day by day it is heard more and more, till,

when the first green spray appears on the hawthorn, he visits the roof

continually. Besides the roof-tree and the chimney-top, he has his own

special place, sometimes under an eave, sometimes between two gables;

and as I sit writing, I can see a pair who have a ledge which slightly

projects from the wall between the eave and the highest window.

This was made by the builder for an ornament; but my two starlings

consider it their own particular possession. They alight with a sort of

half-scream half-whistle just over the window, flap their wings, and

whistle again, run along the ledge to a spot where there is a gable,

and with another note, rise up and enter an aperture between the slates

and the wall. There their nest will be in a little time, and busy

indeed they will be when the young require to be fed, to and fro the

fields and the gable the whole day through, the busiest and the most

useful of birds, for they destroy thousands upon thousands of insects,

and if farmers were wise, they would never have one shot, no matter how

the thatch was pulled about.

My pair of starlings were frequently at this ledge last autumn, very

late in autumn, and I suspect they had a winter brood there. The

starling does rear a brood sometimes in the midst of the winter,

contrary as that may seem to our general ideas of natural history. They

may be called roof-residents, as they visit it all the year round;

they nest in the roof, rearing two and sometimes three broods; and

use it as their club and place of meeting. Towards July, the young

starlings and those that have for the time at least finished nesting,

flock together, and pass the day in the fields, returning now and then

to their old home. These flocks gradually increase; the starling is

so prolific that the flocks become immense, till in the latter part

of the autumn in southern fields it is common to see a great elm-tree

black with them, from the highest bough downwards, and the noise of

their chattering can be heard a long distance. They roost in firs or

in osier-beds. But in the blackest days of winter, when frost binds

the ground hard as iron, the starlings return to the roof almost every

day; they do not whistle much, but have a peculiar chuckling whistle at

the instant of alighting. In very hard weather, especially snow, the

starlings find it difficult to obtain a living, and at such times will

come to the premises at the rear, and at farmhouses where cattle are in

the yards, search about among them for insects.

The whole history of the starling is interesting, but I must here

only mention it as a roof-bird. They are very handsome in their full

plumage, which gleams bronze and green among the darker shades; quick

in their motions and full of spirit; loaded to the muzzle with energy,

and never still. I hope none of those who are so good as to read what

I have written will ever keep a starling in a cage; the cruelty is

extreme. As for shooting pigeons at a trap, it is mercy in comparison.

Even before the starling whistles much, the sparrows begin to chirp;

in the dead of winter they are silent; but so soon as the warmer winds

blow, if only for a day, they begin to chirp. In January this year I

used to listen to the sparrows chirping, the starlings whistling, and

the chaffinches’ ‘chink, chink’ about eight o’clock, or earlier, in

the morning; the first two on the roof, the latter, which is not a

roof-bird, in some garden shrubs. As the spring advances, the sparrows

sing—it is a short song, it is true, but still it is singing—perched at

the edge of a sunny wall. There is not a place about the house where

they will not build—under the eaves, on the roof, anywhere where there

is a projection or shelter, deep in the thatch, under the tiles, in

old eave-swallows’ nests. The last place I noticed as a favourite one

in towns is on the half-bricks left projecting in perpendicular rows

at the sides of unfinished houses. Half-a-dozen nests may be counted

at the side of a house on these bricks; and like the starlings, they

rear several broods, and some are nesting late in the autumn. By

degrees as the summer advances they leave the houses for the corn, and

gather in vast flocks, rivalling those of the starlings. At this time

they desert the roofs, except those who still have nesting duties. In

winter and in the beginning of the new year, they gradually return;

migration thus goes on under the eyes of those who care to notice it.

In London, some who fed sparrows on the roof found that rooks also

came for the crumbs placed out. I sometimes see a sparrow chasing a

rook, as if angry, and trying to drive it away over the roofs where I

live. The thief does not retaliate, but, like a thief, flees from the

scene of his guilt. This is not only in the breeding season, when the

rook steals eggs, but in winter. Town residents are apt to despise

the sparrow, seeing him always black; but in the country the sparrows

are as clean as a pink; and in themselves they are the most animated,

clever little creatures. They are easily tamed. The Parisians are fond

of taming them. At a certain hour in the Tuileries Gardens, you may see

a man perfectly surrounded with a crowd of sparrows—some perching on

his shoulder; some fluttering in the air immediately before his face;

some on the ground like a tribe of followers; and others on the marble

seats. He jerks a crumb of bread into the air—a sparrow dexterously

seizes it as he would a flying insect; he puts a crumb between his

lips—a sparrow takes it out and feeds from his mouth. Meantime they

keep up a constant chirping; those that are satisfied still stay by

and adjust their feathers. He walks on, giving a little chirp with his

mouth, and they follow him along the path—a cloud about his shoulders,

and the rest flying from shrub to shrub, perching, and then following

again. They are all perfectly clean—a contrast to the London sparrow. I

came across one of these sparrow-tamers by chance, and was much amused

at the scene, which, to any one not acquainted with birds, appears

marvellous; but it is really as simple as possible, and you can repeat

it for yourself if you have patience, for they are so sharp they soon

understand you. They seem to play at nest-making before they really

begin; taking up straws in their beaks, and carrying them half-way to

the roof, then letting the straws float away; and the same with stray

feathers. Neither of these, starlings nor sparrows, seem to like the

dark. Under the roof, between it and the first ceiling, there is a

large open space; if the slates or tiles are kept in good order, very

little light enters, and this space is nearly dark in daylight. Even if

chinks admit a beam of light, they do not like it; they seldom enter or

fly about there, though quite accessible to them. But if the roof is in

bad order, and this space light, they enter freely. Though nesting in

holes, yet they like light. The swallows could easily go in and make

nests upon the beams, but they will not, unless the place is well lit.

They do not like darkness in the daytime.

The swallows bring us the sunbeams on their wings from Africa to fill

the fields with flowers. From the time of the arrival of the first

swallow the flowers take heart; the few and scanty plants that had

braved the earlier cold are succeeded by a constantly enlarging list,

till the banks and lanes are full of them. The chimney-swallow is

usually the forerunner of the three house-swallows; and perhaps no fact

in natural history has been so much studied as the migration of these

tender birds. The commonest things are always the most interesting.

In summer there is no bird so common everywhere as the swallow, and

for that reason, many overlook it, though they rush to see a ‘white’

elephant. But the deepest thinkers have spent hours and hours in

considering the problem of the swallow—its migrations, its flight,

its habits; great poets have loved it; great artists and art-writers

have curiously studied it. The idea that it is necessary to seek

the wilderness or the thickest woods for nature is a total mistake;

nature is at home, on the roof, close to every one. Eave-swallows,

or house-martins (easily distinguished by the white bar across the

tail), build sometimes in the shelter of the porches of old houses. As

you go in or out, the swallows visiting or leaving their nests fly so

closely as almost to brush the face. Swallow means porch-bird, and for

centuries and centuries their nests have been placed in the closest

proximity to man. They might be called man’s birds, so attached are

they to the human race. I think the greatest ornament a house can

have is the nest of an eave-swallow under the eaves—far superior to

the most elaborate carving, colouring, or arrangement the architect

can devise. There is no ornament like the swallow’s nest; the home

of a messenger between man and the blue heavens, between us and the

sunlight, and all the promise of the sky. The joy of life, the highest

and tenderest feelings, thoughts that soar on the swallow’s wings, come

to the round nest under the roof. Not only to-day, not only the hopes

of future years, but all the past dwells there. Year after year the

generations and descent of the swallow have been associated with our

homes, and all the events of successive lives have taken place under

their guardianship. The swallow is the genius of good to a house. Let

its nest, then, stay; to me it seems the extremity of barbarism, or

rather stupidity, to knock it down. I wish I could induce them to build

under the eaves of this house; I would if I could discover some means

of communicating with them. It is a peculiarity of the swallow that

you cannot make it afraid of you; just the reverse of other birds. The

swallow does not understand being repulsed, but comes back again. Even

knocking the nest down will not drive it away, until the stupid process

has been repeated several years. The robin must be coaxed; the sparrow

is suspicious, and though easy to tame, quick to notice the least

alarming movement. The swallow will not be driven away. He has not the

slightest fear of man; he flies to his nest close to the window, under

the low eave, or on the beams in the outhouses, no matter if you are

looking on or not. Bold as the starlings are, they will seldom do this.

But in the swallow, the instinct of suspicion is reversed; an instinct

of confidence occupies its place. In addition to the eave-swallow, to

which I have chiefly alluded, and the chimney-swallow, there is the

swift, also a roof-bird, and making its nest in the slates of houses in

the midst of towns. These three are migrants, in the fullest sense, and

come to our houses over thousands of miles of land and sea.

Robins frequently visit the roof for insects, especially when it is

thatched; so do wrens; and the latter, after they have peered along,

have a habit of perching at the extreme angle of a gable, or the

extreme edge of a corner, and uttering their song. Finches occasionally

fly up to the roofs of country-houses if shrubberies are near, also in

pursuit of insects; but they are not truly roof-birds. Wagtails perch

on roofs; they often have their nests in the ivy, or creepers trained

against walls; they are quite at home, and are frequently seen on the

ridges of farmhouses. Tits of several species, particularly the great

titmouse and the blue tit, come to thatch for insects both in summer

and winter. In some districts where they are common, it is not unusual

to see a goatsucker or fern-owl hawk along close to the eaves in the

dusk of the evening for moths. The white owl is a roof-bird (though not

often of the house), building inside the roof, and sitting there all

day in some shaded corner. They do sometimes take up their residence in

the roofs of outhouses attached to dwellings, but not often nowadays,

though still residing in the roofs of old castles. Jackdaws, again,

are roof-birds, building in the roofs of towers. Bats live in roofs,

and hang there wrapped up in their membraneous wings till the evening

calls them forth. They are residents in the full sense, remaining all

the year round, though principally seen in the warmer months; but they

are there in the colder, hidden away, and if the temperature rises,

will venture out and hawk to and fro in the midst of the winter. Tame

pigeons and doves hardly come into this paper, but still it is their

habit to use roofs as tree-tops. Rats and mice creep through the

crevices of roofs, and in old country-houses hold a sort of nightly

carnival, racing to and fro under the roof. Weasels sometimes follow

them indoors and up to their roof strongholds.

When the first warm rays of spring sunshine strike against the southern

side of the chimney, sparrows perch there and enjoy it; and again in

autumn, when the general warmth of the atmosphere is declining, they

still find a little pleasant heat there. They make use of the radiation

of heat, as the gardener does who trains his fruit-trees to a wall.

Before the autumn has thinned the leaves, the swallows gather on the

highest ridge of the roof in a row and twitter to each other; they know

the time is approaching when they must depart for another climate. In

winter, many birds seek the thatched roofs to roost. Wrens, tits, and

even blackbirds roost in the holes left by sparrows or starlings.

Every crevice is the home of insects, or used by them for the deposit

of their eggs—under the tiles or slates, where mortar has dropped out

between the bricks, in the holes of thatch, and on the straws. The

number of insects that frequent a large roof must be very great—all

the robins, wrens, bats, and so on, can scarcely affect them; nor the

spiders, though these, too, are numerous. Then there are the moths,

and those creeping creatures that work out of sight, boring their way

through the rafters and beams. Sometimes a sparrow may be seen clinging

to the bare wall of the house; tits do the same thing—it is surprising

how they manage to hold on—they are taking insects from the apertures

of the mortar. Where the slates slope to the south, the sunshine

soon heats them, and passing butterflies alight on the warm surface,

and spread out their wings, as if hovering over the heat. Flies are

attracted in crowds sometimes to heated slates and tiles, and wasps

will occasionally pause there. Wasps are addicted to haunting houses,

and in the autumn, feed on the flies. Floating germs carried by the

air must necessarily lodge in numbers against roofs; so do dust and

invisible particles; and together, these make the rain-water collected

in water-butts after a storm turbid and dark; and it soon becomes full

of living organisms.

Lichen and moss grow on the mortar wherever it has become slightly

disintegrated; and if any mould, however minute, by any means

accumulates between the slates, there, too, they spring up, and

even on the slates themselves. Tiles are often coloured yellow by

such growths. On some old roofs, which have decayed, and upon which

detritus has accumulated, wallflowers may be found; and the house-leek

takes capricious root where it fancies. The stonecrop is the finest

of roof-plants, sometimes forming a broad patch of brilliant yellow.

Birds carry up seeds and grains, and these germinate in moist thatch.

Groundsel, for instance, and stray stalks of wheat, thin and drooping

for lack of soil, are sometimes seen there, besides grasses. Ivy is

familiar as a roof-creeper. Some ferns and the pennywort will grow

on the wall close to the roof. Where will not ferns grow? We saw one

attached to the under-side of a glass coal-hole cover; its green could

be seen through the thick glass on which people stepped daily.

Recently, much attention has been paid to the dust which is found on

roofs and ledges at great heights. This meteoric dust, as it is called,

consists of minute particles of iron, which are thought to fall from

the highest part of the atmosphere, or possibly to be attracted to the

earth from space. Lightning usually strikes the roof. The whole subject

of lightning-conductors has been re-opened of late years, there being

reason to think that mistakes have been made in the manner of their

erection. The reason English roofs are high-pitched is not only because

of the rain, that it may shoot off quickly, but on account of snow.

Once now and then there comes a snow-year, and those who live in houses

with flat surfaces anywhere on the roof soon discover how inconvenient

they are. The snow is sure to find its way through, damaging ceilings,

and doing other mischief. Sometimes, in fine summer weather, people

remark how pleasant it would be if the roof were flat, so that it could

be used as a terrace, as it is in warmer climates. But the fact is

the English roof, although now merely copied and repeated without a

thought of the reason of its shape, grew up from experience of severe

winters. Of old, great care and ingenuity—what we should now call

artistic skill—were employed in constructing the roof. It was not only

pleasant to the eye with its gables, but the woodwork was wonderfully

well done. Such roofs may still be seen on ancient mansions, having

endured for centuries. They are splendid pieces of workmanship, and

seen from afar among foliage, are admired by every one who has the

least taste. Draughtsmen and painters value them highly. No matter

whether reproduced on a large canvas or in a little woodcut, their

proportions please. The roof is much neglected in modern houses; it is

either conventional, or it is full indeed of gables, but gables that

do not agree, as it were, with each other—that are obviously put there

on purpose to look artistic, and fail altogether. Now, the ancient

roofs were true works of art, consistent, and yet each varied to its

particular circumstances, and each impressed with the individuality of

the place and of the designer. The finest old roofs were built of oak

or chestnut; the beams are black with age, and in that condition, oak

is scarcely distinguishable from chestnut.

So the roof has its natural history, its science, and art; it has

its seasons, its migrants and residents, of whom a housetop calendar

might be made. The fine old roofs which have just been mentioned are

often associated with historic events and the rise of families; and

the roof-tree, like the hearth, has a range of proverbs or sayings and

ancient lore to itself. More than one great monarch has been slain by

a tile thrown from the housetop, and numerous other incidents have

occurred in connection with it. The most interesting is the story of

the Grecian mother, who with her infant was on the roof, when, in a

moment of inattention, the child crept to the edge, and was balanced

on the very verge. To call to it, to touch it, would have insured its

destruction; but the mother, without a second’s thought, bared her

breast, and the child eagerly turning to it, was saved!

BY MEAD AND STREAM.

CHAPTER XXXIV.—JUDGE ME.

Mr Beecham had spoken the words, ‘You must know it all,’ as if they

contained a threat, but impulse directed tone and words. He became

instantly conscious of his excitement, when he saw the startled

expression with which Madge regarded him. His emotion was checked.

Mechanically, he gripped the bridle of his passion, and held it down as

a strong man restrains a restive horse.

‘Shall I go on?’ he said with almost perfect self-control, although his

voice had not yet quite regained its usual softness. ‘I know that you

will be pained. I do not like that, and so you see me hesitating, and

weakly trying to shift the responsibility from my own shoulders. Shall

I go on?’

‘I am not afraid of pain,’ she answered quietly, but with a distant

tremor in her voice; ‘and if you think that I should hear what you have

to say, say it.’

‘Then I will speak as gently as it is in my power to do; but this

subject always stirs the most evil passions that are in me. I want

to win your confidence, and that impels me to tell you why I doubt

Philip—it is because I know his father to be false.’

‘Oh, you are mistaken!’ she exclaimed, rising at once to the defence of

a friend; ‘you do not know how much good he has done!’

‘No; but I do know some of the harm he has done.’ There was a sort

of grim humour in voice and look, as if he were trying to subdue his

bitterness of heart by smiling at the girl’s innocent trustfulness.

‘Harm!—Mr Hadleigh harm anybody! You judge him wrongly: he may look

hard and—and unpleasant; but he has a kind nature, and suffers a great

deal.’

‘He should suffer’ (this more gently now—more like himself, and as if

he spoke in sorrow rather than in anger). ‘But, all the same he has

done harm—cruel, wicked harm.’

‘To whom—to whom?’

‘To me and to your mother.’ A long pause, as if he were drawing breath

for the words which at length he uttered in a faltering whisper: ‘_His_

lies separated us.’

Madge stood mute and pale. She remembered what Aunt Hessy had told her:

how there had come the rumour first, and then the confident assertion

of the treachery of the absent lover—no one able to tell who brought

the news which the loss of his letter in the wreck, and consequently

apparent silence, seemed to confirm. Then all the sad days of hoping—of

faith in the absent, whilst the heart was sickening and growing faint,

as the weeks, the months passed, and the unbroken silence of the loved

one slowly forced the horrible conviction upon her that the news _must_

be true. He—Austin, whom she had prayed not to go away—had gone without

answering that pathetic cry, and had broken his troth.

Poor mother, poor mother! Oh, the agony of it all! Madge could see

it—feel it. She could see the woman in her great sorrow dumbly looking

across the sea, hoping, still hoping that he would come back, until

despair became her master. And now to know that all this misery had

been brought about by a Lie! ... and the speaker of the lie had been

Philip’s father! Two lives wrecked, two hearts broken by a lie. Was it

not the cruelest kind of murder?—the two lives lingering along their

weary way, each believing the other faithless.

She sprang into the present again—it was too horrible. She would not

believe that any man could be so wicked, and least of all Philip’s

father.

‘I will not believe it!’ she exclaimed with a sudden movement of the

hands, as if sweeping the sad visions away from her.

Beecham’s brows lowered, but not frowningly, as he looked long at her

flushed face, and saw that the bright eyes had become brighter still in

the excitement of her indignant repudiation of the charge he made.

‘Do you like the man?’ he asked in a low tone.

The question had never occurred to her before, and in the quick

self-survey which it provoked, she was not prepared to say ‘Yes’ or

‘No.’ In the moment, too, she remembered Uncle Dick’s unexplained

quarrel with Mr Hadleigh on the market-day, and also that Uncle Dick,

who wore his heart upon his sleeve, never much favoured the Master of

Ringsford.

‘He is Philip’s father,’ she answered simply; and in giving the

answer, she felt that it was enough for her. She _must_ like everybody

who belonged to Philip.

‘Is that all?’

‘It is enough,’ she said impatiently.

‘Do not be angry with me; but try to see a little with my eyes. You

will do so when you learn how guilty he is.’

‘I will not hear it!’ and she moved.

‘For Philip’s sake,’ he said softly but firmly, ‘if not for that of

another, who would tell you it was right that you should hear me.’

Madge stood still, her face towards the wall, so that he could not see

her agitation. The bright fire cast the shadow of his profile on the

same wall, and the silhouette, grotesquely exaggerated as the outlines

were, still suggested suffering rather than anger.

‘Do you know that Hadleigh has good reason for enmity towards me?’

‘No; I never knew or thought that he could have reason for enmity

towards any one.’

‘He had towards me.’

‘I believe you are wrong. I am sure of it;’ and she thought that here

might be her opportunity to further Philip’s desire to reconcile them.

‘Should you desire to test what I am about to tell you, say to Hadleigh

that you have been told George Laurence was a friend of Philip’s

mother. He was my friend too. My poor sister was passionate and, like

all passionate people, weak. Hadleigh took her from my friend _for her

money_—a pitiful few hundred pounds. I never liked the man; but I hated

him then, and hated him still more when Laurence, becoming reckless

alike of fortune and life, ruined himself and ... killed himself. But

the crime was Hadleigh’s, and it lies heavy on his soul.’

‘Oh, why should you speak so bitterly of what he could neither foresee

nor prevent.’

‘I charged him with the murder,’ Beecham continued, without heeding the

interruption, ‘and he could not answer me like a man. He spoke soft

words, as if I were a boy in a passion; he even attempted to condole

with me for the loss of my friend, until I fled from him, lest my hands

should obey my wish and not my will. But he had his revenge. He made

my sister’s life a torture. She tried to hide it in her letters to me;

but I could read her misery in every line. And then, when he discovered

that I had gone into the wilds of Africa, without any likelihood of

being able to send a message home for many months, he told the lie

which destroyed our hopes.’

‘How do you know that it was he who told it?’ she asked, without moving

and with some fear of the answer.

‘The man he employed to spread the false report confessed to me what

had been done and by whom.’

Madge’s head drooped; there seemed to be no refutation of this proof of

Mr Hadleigh’s guilt possible.

Beecham partly understood that slight movement of the head, and his

voice had become soft again when he resumed:

‘I did not seek to retaliate. She was lost to me, and it did not

much matter what evil influence came between us. I am not seeking to

retaliate now. I would have forgotten the man and the evil he had

wrought, if it had not been for the cry my sister sent to me from her

deathbed. She asked me for some sign that in the future I would try to

help and guide her favourite child, Philip. I gave the pledge, and she

was only able to answer that I had made her happy. I am here to fulfil

that pledge, and it might have been easily done, but for you.’

‘For me!’—Startled, but not looking at him yet.

‘Ay, for you, because I wish to be sure that you will be safe in his

keeping; and to be sure of that, I wish him to prove that he has none

of his father’s nature in him.’

‘Do you still hate his father so much?’ she said distressfully.

‘I have long ceased to feel hatred; but I still distrust him and all

that belongs to him. Now that you know why I stand aside to watch how

Philip bears himself, do you still ask me to release you from your

promise?’

‘I will not betray your confidence,’ she answered mechanically; ‘but

what I ought to do I will do.’

‘I would not desire you to do anything else, my child,’ and all his

gentleness of manner had returned. ‘I will not ask you to say at this

moment whether or not you think I am acting rightly. I ask only that

you will remember whose child you are, and what she was to me, as you

have learned what I was to her. Then you will understand and judge me.’

‘I cannot judge, but I will try to understand.’

Then she turned towards him, and he saw that although she had been

speaking so quietly, her pain had been great.

‘Forgive me, my poor child, for bringing this sorrow to you; but it may

be the means of saving you from a life of misery, or of leading you to

one of happiness.’

There was a subdued element of solemnity in this—it was so calm, so

earnest, that she remained silent. He imagined that he understood; but

he was mistaken. She did not herself yet understand the complicated

emotions which had been stirred within her. She had tried to put away

those sad visions, but could not: the sorrowful face of the mother

was always looking wistfully at her out of the mists. She ought to

have been filled with bitterness by the account of the crime—for crime

it surely was—which had wrought so much mischief, and the proof of

which appeared to be so strong. Instead of that, she felt sorry for Mr

Hadleigh. Here was the reason for the gloom in which he lived—remorse

lay heavily upon him. Here, too, was the reason for all his kindliness

to her, when he was so cold to others. She was sorry for him.

Hope came to her relief, dim at first, but growing brighter as she

reflected. Might there not be some error in the counts against him?

She saw that in thinking of the misfortunes of his friend Laurence,

passion had caused Austin Shield to exaggerate the share Mr Hadleigh

had in bringing them about. Might it not be that in a similar way he

had exaggerated and misapprehended what he had been told by the man

who denounced Mr Hadleigh as the person who had employed him to spread

the fatal lie? Whether or not this should prove to be the case, it was

clear that until Mr Shield’s mind was disabused of the belief that

Philip’s father had been the cause of his sorrow and her mother’s,

there was no possibility of effecting a reconciliation between the two

men. But if all his charges were well founded—what then?... She was

afraid to think of what might be to come after.

Still holding her hand, he made a movement towards the door. Then she

spoke:

‘I want you to say again that whilst I keep your secret, you leave me

free to speak to Mr Hadleigh about ... about the things you have told

me.’

‘Yes, if you still doubt me.’

‘I will speak,’ she said deliberately, ‘not because I doubt you, but

because I believe you are mistaken.’

Again that long look of reverent admiration of her trustfulness, and

then:

‘Act as your own heart tells you will be wisest and kindest.’

* * * * *

As he passed down the frozen gravel-path, he met Philip. He was in

no mood for conversation, and saying only ‘Good-evening,’ passed on.

Philip was surprised; although, being wearied himself, he was not sorry

to escape a conversation with one who was a comparative stranger.

‘What is the matter with Mr Beecham?’ he inquired carelessly, when he

entered the oak parlour and, to his delight, found Madge alone.

‘He is distressed about some family affairs,’ she answered after a

little hesitation.

Philip observed the hesitation and, slight as it was, the confusion of

her manner.

‘Oh, something more about that affair in which you are his confidant,

I suppose, and came to you for comfort. Well, I come upon the same

errand—fagged and worried to death. Will you give me a glass of

wine?—Stay, I should prefer a little brandy-and-water.—Thank you.’

He had dropped into an armchair, as if physically tired out. She seated

herself beside him and rested a hand on his shoulder.

‘You have been disturbed again at the works,’ she said soothingly.

‘Disturbed!—driven to my wits’ end would be more like my present state.

Everything is going wrong. The capital has nearly all disappeared,

without any sign of a return for it, so that it looks as if I should

speedily have to ask Uncle Shield for more.—What has frightened you?’

‘Nothing—it was only a chill—don’t mind it. Have you seen—him?’

‘Came straight from him here. He was rather out of humour, I thought;

and as usual, referred me to his lawyers on almost every point. As to

more capital, he said there would be no difficulty about that, if he

was satisfied that the first money had been prudently invested.’

‘I understood that he was pleased with what you were attempting.’

‘So did I; but it seems to me now as if he was anything but satisfied.

However, he would give me no definite answer or advice. He would think

about it—he would make inquiries, and then see what was to be done. He

is right, of course; and queer as his ways are, he has been kind and

generous. But if he pulls up now, the whole thing will go to smash,

and—to fail, Madge, to fail, when it only requires another strong

effort to make a success!’

‘But you are not to fail, Philip.’

‘At present, things look rather like it. Oh, it will be rare fun for

them all!’ he added bitterly.

‘All?’

‘Yes, everybody who predicted that my scheme was a piece of madness and

must come to grief. That does not matter so much, though, as finding

myself to be a fool. I wish uncle would talk over the matter quietly

with me. I am sure he could help me.... Why, you are shivering. Come

nearer to the fire.’

She moved her chair as he suggested.

‘But how is it that the money is all gone?’

‘It is not exactly gone, but sunk in the buildings and the machinery;

and the disputes with the men have caused a lot of waste. The men are

the real trouble; they can’t get the idea into their heads, somehow;

and even Caleb is turning rusty now. But that is because he is bothered

about Pansy.... Ah, Madge’ (his whole manner changing suddenly as he

grasped her hand and gazed fondly into her eyes); ‘although it will be

a bitter pill to swallow if this scheme falls through—I was so proud of

it, so hopeful of it at the start, and saw such a bright future for it,

and believed it would be such a mighty social lever—although that would

be bitter, I should get over it. I could never get over any trouble

about you, such as that poor chap is in about Pansy.... But that can

never be,’ he concluded impulsively.

For the next few minutes he forgot all about the works, the men, and

the peril in which his Utopia stood, threatening every day to tumble

all to pieces. Madge was glad that his thoughts should be withdrawn for

a space from his worry, and was glad to be able to breathe more freely

herself in thinking only of their love, for those references to his

Uncle Shield troubled her.

‘You are not losing courage altogether, then?’ she said smiling.

‘I shall never lose it altogether so long as you are beside me,

although I may halt at times,’ he answered. ‘There; I am better now.

Don’t let us talk any more to-night about disagreeable things—they

don’t seem half so disagreeable to me as they did when I came in.’

So, as they were not to talk about disagreeable things, they talked

about themselves. They did remember Caleb and Pansy, however; and Madge

promised to see the latter soon, and endeavour to persuade her to be

kind to her swain.

A NORMAN SEASCAPE.

It was on our way from Paris to the sea that we found out Dives; a

little town, forgotten now, but once, long ago, holding for four short

weeks an urgent place in the foreground of the world’s history. It is a

day’s journey distant from Paris, a long summer day’s journey through

fair France, fairest of all when one reaches green Normandy, rich in

sober old farmhouses, quaint churches, orchards laden with russet fruit

ripening to fill the cider-barrels.

The little station near Dives is set in a desert of sand; one white

road leads this way, another that. Of the modest town itself you

see nothing. Your eye is caught for a moment as you look round you

by the gentle undulation of the hills that rise behind it. On these

slopes, a nameless battle was once fought and won; but the story of

that struggle belongs to the past, and it is the present you have to

do with. At this moment your most urgent need is to secure a seat in

omnibus or supplement; all the world is going seawards, and even French

politeness yields a little before the pressure of necessity; for the

crowd is great and the carriages are small. There is infection in

the gaiety of our fellow holiday-seekers, whose costumes are devised

to hint delicately or more broadly their destination. Their pleasure

is expressed with all the _naïveté_ of childhood; so we too, easily

enough, catch something of their spirit, and watch eagerly for the

first hint of blue on the horizon, for the first crisp, salt breath in

the air. Dives, after its spasmodic revival, falls back into silence,

and is forgotten. We forget it too, and for the next few days the

problem of life at Beuzeval-Houlgate occupies us wholly.

He who first invented Beuzeval must have had a vivid imagination, a

creative genius. What possibilities did he see in that sad reach of

endless sand, in that sadder expanse of sea, as we first saw it under

a gray summer sky? Yet here, almost with the wave of an Aladdin’s

wand, a gay little town sprung into existence—fantastic houses,

pseudo-Swiss châlets, very un-English ‘Cottages Anglais;’ ‘Beach’

hotels, ‘Sea’ hotels, ‘Beautiful Sojourn’ hotels lined the shore,

and Paris came down and took possession. Houlgate and we are really

one, though some barrier, undefinable and not to be grasped by us,

divides us. But Houlgate holds itself proudly aloof from us; Houlgate

leads the fashions; it is dominated by ‘that ogre, gentility;’ its

houses are more fantastic, its costumes more magnificent, its ways

more mysterious. At Beuzeval, one is not genteel, one is natural; it

is a family-life of simplicity and tranquillity, as the guide-book

sets forth in glowing terms. We live in a little house that faces,

and is indeed set low upon the beach. There is a strip of garden

which produces a gay crop of marigolds and sunflowers growing in a

sandy waste—gold against gold. We belong to Mère Jeanne, an ancient

lady, who wears a white cotton night-cap of the tasselled order, and

who is oftenest seen drawing water at the well. Her vessel is of an

antique shape; and she, too, is old. Tradition whispers that she has

seen ninety winters come and go, yet her cheeks are rosy as one of

her Normandy apples. One feels that life moves slowly and death comes

tardily to this sea-village, where the outer world intrudes but once a

year, and then but for one brief autumn month alone.

Bathing is the chief occupation of the day, and it is undertaken with

a seriousness that is less French than British. Nothing can be funnier

than to watch this matter of taking _le bain_. From early morning till

noon, all the world is on the beach. Rows of chairs are brought down

from the bath-house—all gay at this hour with wind-tossed flags—and

are planted firmly in the soft loose sand; here those of us who are

spectators sit and watch the show. A paternal government arranges

everything for its children. Here one goes by rule. So many hours of

the morning and so many hours of the evening must alone be devoted

to the salt bath; such and such a space of the wide beach, carefully

marked off with fluttering standards, must alone be occupied. Thus

bathing is a very social affair; the strip of blue water is for the

moment converted into a _salon_, where all the courtesies of life are

duly observed. On the other side of the silver streak, business of

the same nature is no doubt going on; but French imagination alone

could evolve, French genius devise, the strange and wonderful costumes

appropriate to the occasion.

Here is a lady habited in scarlet, dainty shoes and stockings to match,

and a bewitching cap (none of your hideous oilskin) with falling

lace and telling little bows of ribbon. Here another, clad in pale

blue, with a becoming hat tied under her chin, and many bangles on

her wrists. The shoes alone are a marvel. How do all these intricate

knots and lacings, these glancing buckles, survive the rough and

sportive usage of the waves? Who but our Gallic sisters could imagine

those delicate blendings of dark blue and silver, crimson and brown,

those strange stripes and æsthetic olives and drabs? The costume of

the gentlemen is necessarily less varied, though here and there one

notices an eccentric harlequin, easily distinguishable among the

crowd; and again, what Englishman would dream of taking his morning

dip with a ruff round his neck, a silken girdle, and a hat to save his

complexion from the sun? Two amiable persons dressed in imitation of

the British tar, obligingly spend the greater part of the day in the

sea. Their business it is to conduct timid ladies from the beach and to

assist them in their bath. The braver spirits allow themselves to be

plunged under the brine, the more fearful are content to be sprinkled

delicately from a tin basin. There is also a rower, whose little boat,

furnished with life-saving appliances, plies up and down among the

crowd, lest one more venturesome than his neighbours should pass beyond

his depth; an almost impossible event, as one might say, seeing with

what fondness even the boldest swimmer clings to the shore.

Danger on these summer waters seems a remote contingency. Here is

neither ‘bar that thunders’ nor ‘shale that rings.’ It is for the

most part a lazy sea, infinitely blue, that comes softly, almost

caressingly, shorewards. At first, one is struck with the absence

of life which it presents—the human element uncounted. There is no

pier, and boating as a pastime is unknown. Occasionally, a fleet of

brown-sheeted fishing-smacks rides out from the little port of Dives,

each sail slowly unfurled, making a spot of warm colour when the sun

shines on the canvas; now and then there is a gleam of white wings

on the far horizon. But the glory of the place is its limitless,

uninterrupted sea, shore, and sky—endless reaches of golden sand,

endless plains of blue water. With so liberal a space of heaven and

of ocean, you have naturally room for many subtle effects, countless

shades and blendings of colour, most evanescent coming and going of

light and shadow. To the left, gay little Cabourg, all big hotels

and Parisian finery, runs out to meet the sea; farther still, Luc is

outlined against the sky. To the right are the cliffs at Havre, pink

at sunset; their position marked when dusk has fallen by the glow of

the revolving light. Beyond, _là bas_—that ‘indifferent, supercilious’

French _là bas_—an ‘elsewhere’ of little importance, lies unseen

England. When the sun has set, dipping its fireball in haste to cool

itself in the waters, there comes sometimes an illusive effect as

of land, dim, far off, indistinct; but it is cloud-land, not our

sea-island.

The sunsets are a thing to marvel at, never two nights alike. ‘C’est

adorable!’ as our old Norman waiting-woman said, with a fervent

pressure of the hands, as she looked with us on ‘the crimson splendour

when the day had waned.’ Sometimes it is a lingering glory, the

rose-light on the pools fading slowly, as if loath to go; sometimes the

spectacle is more quickly over, and almost ‘with one stride comes the

dark;’ then swiftly in their appointed order the familiar stars. Now

and again, it is a great storm—a blue-black sea and an inky sky, rent

too frequently by the zigzags of the lightning. There is always the

charm of change and novelty; the piquancy of the unexpected.

After the serious business of the bath is over, the lunch-hour has

arrived. Being as it were one family, we all take our meals at

the same time. Later in the afternoon, Houlgate rides and drives,

elegant landaus, carriages with linen umbrellas suspended over them,

donkey-carts driven by beautiful young ladies in beautiful Paris gowns.

Beuzeval braves the dust, and looks on respectfully at the show; but

Beuzeval does not drive much. It takes its little folks to the beach

and helps them to build sand-castles. It goes off in bands armed with

forks to the exciting chase of the _équilles_. These little fish of

the eel tribe, which are savoury eating, burrow in the sand at low

tide, and it requires some skill to capture them. Whole families go

out shrimping too, looking not unpicturesque as, set against the light

on the far sea-margin, they push their nets before them. One afternoon

we watched two bearded men amuse themselves for hours with flying a

pink kite. Their gesticulations were lively, and their excitement

great, when at last it sailed bravely before the breeze. We are very

easily amused here; for the most part, we are content to look about us,

hospitable to all stray impressions. At such times, one is tempted to

the idlest speculations. Why, for instance, are all the draught-horses

white? Is it that the blue sheep-skin collar may have the advantage

of contrast? Why, in a land of green pastures, where kine abound, is

milk at a ransom price, and butter not always eatable? Why, again, in

spite of our simplicity, our _vie de famille_, is it necessary to one’s

well-being here to have an inexhaustible Fortunatus’s purse? But these

things are mysteries; let us cease to meddle with them, and follow

Houlgate wider afield, on foot, if you will, to little Dives, too long

neglected—Dives, which sends its placid river to swell the sea, but

lingers inland itself, hardly on the roughest day within sound of the

waves.

It was at Dives that Duke William of Normandy and his host waited for

the south wind, that fair wind that was to carry them to England. The

harbour, choked now with the shifting sand, and sheltering nothing

larger than a fishing-smack—held the fleet which some have numbered

in thousands; gallant ships for which Normandy’s noblest forest trees

were sacrificed during that long summer of preparation. Finest of them

all, riding most proudly on the waves, was William’s own _Mora_, the

gift of his Matilda. At its prow there was carved in gold the image

of a boy ‘blowing on an ivory horn pointing towards England.’ ‘Stark’

Duke William thus symbolised his conquest before ever he set foot on

that alien shore. On the gentle slopes above the little town, where the

cattle feed, the great army encamped itself, waiting for that fair wind

that never came. Four weeks they lingered, long enough to associate

the seaport inseparably with the Conqueror’s name; and brave stories

are chronicled of the order he kept among his fierce Gauls, and how

the worthy people of Dives learned to look on the strangers without

distrust—almost with indifference; to till their fields, to tend their

flocks, to gather in the harvest, as if no nation’s fate hung on the

caprice of a breeze. Four weeks of this, and then that great company

melted away almost with the suddenness of a certain Assyrian host of

old—a west wind blew gently—not the longed-for south; but the ships,

weary of inaction, spread their wings, and flew away to St Valery,

where a narrower band of blue separated them from the desired English

haven. And the village folks were left once more to the vast quietude

of their country life.

There is an old church, rebuilt since English Edward destroyed it, a

noble specimen of Norman architecture, and there they keep recorded on

marble the names of the knights who sailed on that famous expedition

from the port hard by. The church has its legend, too, of a wondrous

effigy of our Lord found by the fishermen who launched their nets in

these waters. It bore the print of nails in the hands and feet; but

the cross to which it had been fastened was awanting. The village

folks gave it reverent sanctuary, and devout hands busied themselves

in fashioning a crucifix; but no crucifix—let the workman be ever so

skilful—could be made to fit the carven Christ. This one was too short,

that too long. Clearly the miracle had been but half wrought; the cross

must be sought where the image had already been found. In faith, the

fishermen cast their nets again and again into the deep. At last, after

long patience on their part, the sea gave up what it had previously

denied. The long-lost cross was found; and with the figure nailed to it

once more, the sacred symbol was borne to its resting-place. A great

feast-day that, for Dives; but only the memory of it lingers. The

treasure has vanished, and nothing save a curious picture representing

the miracle remains to witness to the event. It hangs in the transept,

and there are many who linger to look at it. The outside of this grand

building pleased us well; it stands secure and free, with open spaces

about it, green woods behind, and the blue sky of France above. A

stone’s-throw off there is the market, which is nothing but a wide and

deep overhanging roof, supported on pillars of carved wood. Here the

sturdy peasants of this white-cotton-night-cap country sell the cheeses

that smell so evilly and taste so well.

Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 25, Vol. I, June 21, 1884 · 第 1 / 4 段