STILL ON THE ROUTE--FORT GARRY--BREAKING UP OF OUR PARTY OF
MISSIONARIES--LOWER FORT--HOSPITABLE HUDSON'S BAY OFFICIALS--
PECULIARITIES--FOURTEEN DAYS IN A LITTLE OPEN BOAT ON STORMY LAKE
WINNIPEG--STRANGE EXPERIENCES--HAPPY CHRISTIAN INDIAN BOATMEN--"IN
PERILS BY WATERS."
At Fort Garry in the Red River settlement, now the flourishing city of
Winnipeg, our party, which had so long travelled together, broke up with
mutual regrets. The Reverend George Young and his family remained to
commence the first Methodist Mission in that place. Many were his
discouragements and difficulties, but glorious have been his successes.
More to him than to any other man is due the prominent position which
the Methodist Church now occupies in the North-West. His station was
one calling for rare tact and ability. The Riel Rebellion, and the
disaffection of the Half-breed population, made his position at times
one of danger and insecurity; but he proved himself to be equal to every
emergency. In addition to the many duties devolving upon him in the
establishment of the Church amidst so many discordant elements, a great
many extra cares were imposed upon him by the isolated missionaries in
the interior, who looked to him for the purchasing and sending out to
them, as best he could, of their much-needed supplies. His kindly
laborious efforts for their comfort can never be forgotten.
The Revs. George McDougall and Peter Campbell, with the teachers and
other members of the party, pushed on, with their horses, waggons, and
carts, for the still farther North-West, the great North Saskatchewan
River, twelve hundred miles farther into the interior.
During the first part of their journey over the fertile but then
unbroken prairies, the only inhabitants they met were the roving Indians
and Half-breeds, whose rude wigwams and uncouth noisy carts have long
since disappeared, and have been replaced by the comfortable habitations
of energetic settlers, and the swiftly moving trains of the railroads.
From Fort Garry Mrs Young and myself performed the rest of our journey
by water, going down the Red River to its mouth, and then along the
whole length of the stormy Lake Winnipeg, and beyond, to our own far-off
northern home. The trip was made in what is called "the Hudson's Bay
inland boat." These boats are constructed like large skiffs, only each
end is sharp. They have neither deck nor cabin. They are furnished
with a mast and a large square sail, both of which are stowed away when
the wind is not favourable for sailing. They are manned by six or eight
oarsmen, and are supposed to carry about four tons of merchandise. They
can stand a rough sea, and weather very severe gales, as we found out
during our years of adventurous trips in them. When there is no
favourable wind for sailing, the stalwart boatmen push out their heavy
oars, and, bending their sturdy backs to the work, and keeping the most
perfect time, are often able to make their sixty miles a day. But this
toiling at the oar is slavish work, and the favouring gale, even if it
develops into a fierce storm, is always preferable to a dead calm.
These northern Indians make capital sailors, and in the sudden squalls
and fierce gales to which these great lakes are subject, they display
much courage and judgment.
Our place in the boat was in the hinder part near the steersman, a pure
Indian, whose name was Thomas Mamanowatum, familiarly known as "Big
Tom," on account of his almost gigantic size. He was one of Nature's
noblemen, a grand, true man, and of him we shall have more to say
hereafter. Honoured indeed was the missionary who led such a man from
Paganism to Christianity.
We journeyed on pleasantly for twenty miles down the Red River to Lower
Fort Garry, where we found that we should have to wait for several days
ere the outfit for the boats would be ready. We were, however, very
courteously entertained by the Hudson's Bay officials, who showed us no
little kindness.
This Lower Fort Garry, or "the Stone Fort," as it is called in the
country, is an extensive affair, having a massive stone wall all around
it, with the Company's buildings in the centre. It was built in stormy
times, when rival trading parties existed, and hostile bands were ever
on the war path. It is capable of resisting almost any force that could
be brought against it, unaided by artillery. We were a little amused
and very much pleased with the old-time and almost courtly etiquette
which abounded at this and the other establishments of this flourishing
Company. In those days the law of precedents was in full force. When
the bell rang, no clerk of fourteen years' standing would think of
entering before one who had been fifteen years in the service, or of
sitting above him at the table. Such a thing would have brought down
upon him the severe reproof of the senior officer in charge. Irksome
and even frivolous as some of these laws seemed, doubtless they served a
good purpose, and prevented many misunderstandings which might have
occurred.
Another singular custom, which we did not like, was the fact that there
were two dining-rooms in these establishments, one for the ladies, and
the other for the gentlemen of the service. It appeared to us very odd
to see the gentlemen with the greatest politeness escort the ladies into
the hall which ran between the two dining-rooms, and then gravely turn
to the left, while the ladies all filed off into the room on the right.
As the arrangement was so contrary to all our ideas and education on the
subject, we presumed to question it; but the only satisfaction we could
get in reference to it was, that it was one of their old customs, and
had worked well. One old crusty bachelor official said, "We do not want
the women around us when we are discussing our business matters, which
we wish to keep to ourselves. If they were present, all our schemes and
plans would soon be known to all, and our trade might be much injured."
Throughout this vast country, until very lately, the adventurous
traveller, whose courage or curiosity was sufficient to enable him to
brave the hardships or run the risks of exploring these enormous
territories, was entirely dependent upon the goodwill and hospitality of
the officials of the Hudson's Bay Company. They were uniformly treated
with courtesy and hospitably entertained.
Very isolated are some of these inland posts, and quite expatriated are
the inmates for years at a time. These lonely establishments are to be
found scattered all over the upper half of this great American
Continent. They have each a population of from five to sixty human
beings. These are, if possible, placed in favourable localities for
fish or game, but often from one to five hundred miles apart. The only
object of their erection and occupancy is to exchange the products of
civilisation for the rich and valuable furs which are to be obtained
here as nowhere else in the world. In many instances the inmates hear
from the outside world but twice, and at times but once, in twelve
months. Then the arrival of the packet is the great event of the year.
We spent a very pleasant Sabbath at Lower Fort Garry, and I preached in
the largest dining-room to a very attentive congregation, composed of
the officials and servants of the Company, with several visitors, and
also some Half-breeds and Indians who happened to be at the fort at that
time.
The next day two boats were ready, and we embarked on our adventurous
journey for our far-off, isolated home beyond the northern end of Lake
Winnipeg. The trip down Red River was very pleasant. We passed through
the flourishing Indian Settlement, where the Church of England has a
successful Mission among the Indians. We admired their substantial
church and comfortable homes, and saw in them, and in the farms,
tangible evidence of the power of Christian Missions to elevate and
bless those who come under their ennobling influences. The cosy
residence of the Venerable Archdeacon Cowley was pointed out to us,
beautifully embowered among the trees. He was a man beloved of all; a
life-long friend of the Indians, and one who was as an angel of mercy to
us in after years when our Nellie died, while Mrs Young was making an
adventurous journey in an open boat on the stormy, treacherous Lake
Winnipeg.
This sad event occurred when, after five years' residence among the
Crees at Norway House, we had instructions from our missionary
authorities to go and open up a new Indian Mission among the then pagan
Salteaux. I had orders to remain at Norway House until my successor
arrived; and as but one opportunity was offered for Mrs Young and the
children to travel in those days of limited opportunities, they started
on several weeks ahead in an open skiff manned by a few Indians, leaving
me to follow in a birch canoe. So terrible was the heat that hot July,
in that open boat with no deck or awning, that the beautiful child
sickened and died of brain-fever. Mrs Young found herself with her
dying child on the banks of Red River, all alone among her sorrowing
Indian boatmen, "a stranger in a strange land;" no home to which to go;
no friends to sympathise with her. Fortunately for her, the Hudson's
Bay officials at Lower Fort Garry were made aware of her sorrows, and
received her into one of their homes ere the child died. The Reverend
Mr Cowley also came and prayed for her, and sympathised with her on the
loss of her beautiful child.
As I was far away when Nellie died, Mrs Young knew not what to do with
our precious dead. A temporary grave was made, and in it the body was
laid until I could be communicated with, and arrangements could be made
for its permanent interment. I wrote at once by an Indian to the
Venerable Archdeacon Cowley, asking permission to bury our dead in his
graveyard; and there came promptly back, by the canoe, a very brotherly,
sympathetic letter, ending up with, "Our graveyards are open before you;
`in the choicest of our sepulchres bury thy dead.'" A few weeks after,
when I had handed over my Mission to Brother Ruttan, I hurried on to the
settlement, and with a few sympathising friends, mostly Indians, we took
up the little body from its temporary resting-place, and buried it in
the St. Peter's Church graveyard, the dear archdeacon himself being
present, and reading the beautiful Burial Service of his Church. That
land to us has been doubly precious since it has become the repository
of our darling child.
As we floated down the current, or were propelled along by the oars of
our Indian boatmen, on that first journey, little did we imagine that
this sad episode in our lives would happen in that very spot a few years
after. When we were near the end of the Indian Settlement, as it is
called, we saw several Indians on the bank, holding on to a couple of
oxen. Our boats were immediately turned in to the shore near them, and,
to our great astonishment, we found out that each boat was to have an
addition to its passenger list in the shape of one of these big fellows.
The getting of these animals shipped was no easy matter, as there was
no wharf or gangway; but after a good deal of pulling and pushing, and
lifting up of one leg, and then another, the patient brutes were
embarked on the frail crafts, to be our companions during the voyage to
Norway House. The position assigned to the one in our boat was just in
front of us, "broadside on," as the sailors would say; his head often
hanging over one side of the boat, and his tail over the other side.
The only partition there was between him and us was a single board a few
inches wide. Such close proximity to this animal for fourteen days was
not very agreeable; but as it could not be helped it had to be endured.
At times, during the first few days, the ox made some desperate efforts
to break loose; and it seemed as though he would either smash our boat
to pieces or upset it; but, finding his efforts unsuccessful, he
gracefully accepted the situation, and behaved himself admirably. When
storms arose he quietly lay down, and served as so much ballast to
steady the boat. "Tom," the guide, kept him well supplied with food
from the rich nutritious grasses which grew abundantly along the shore
at our different camping-places.
Winnipeg is considered one of the stormiest lakes on the American
Continent. It is about three hundred miles long, and varies from eighty
to but a few miles in width. It is indented with innumerable bays, and
is dangerous to navigators, on account of its many shoals and hidden
rocks. _Winnipeg_, or _Wenipak_, as some Indians pronounce it, means
"the sea," and _Keche Wenipak_ means "the ocean."
The trip across Lake Winnipeg was one that at the present day would be
considered a great hardship, taking into consideration the style of the
boat and the way we travelled.
Our method of procedure was about as follows. We were aroused very
early in the morning by the guide's cry of _Koos koos kwa_! "Wake up!"
Everybody was expected to obey promptly, as there was always a good deal
of rivalry between the boats as to which could get away first. A hasty
breakfast was prepared on the rocks; after which a morning hymn was
sung, and an earnest prayer was offered up to Him Who holds the winds
and waves under His control.
Then "All aboard" was the cry, and soon tents, kettles, axes, and all
the other things were hurriedly gathered up and placed on board. If the
wind was favourable, the mast was put up, the sail hoisted, and we were
soon rapidly speeding on our way. If the oars had to be used, there was
not half the alacrity displayed by the poor fellows, who well knew how
wearisome their task would be. When we had a favourable wind, we
generally dined as well as we could in the boat, to save time, as the
rowers well knew how much more pleasant it was to glide along with the
favouring breeze than to be obliged to work at the heavy oars. Often
during whole nights we sailed on, although at considerable risks in that
treacherous lake, rather than lose the fair wind. For, if there ever
was, in this world of uncertainties, one route of more uncertainty than
another, the palm must be conceded to the voyages on Lake Winnipeg in
those Hudson's Bay Company's inland boats. You might make the trip in
four days, or even a few hours less; and you might be thirty days, and a
few hours over.
Once, in after years, I was detained for six days on a little rocky
islet by a fierce northern gale, which at times blew with such force
that we could not keep up a tent or even stand upright against its fury;
and as there was not sufficient soil in which to drive a tent pin, we,
with all our bedding and supplies, were drenched by the pitiless sleet
and rain. Often in these later years, when I have heard people, sitting
in the comfortable waiting-room of a railway station, bitterly
complaining because a train was an hour or two late, memory has carried
me back to some of those long detentions amidst the most disagreeable
surroundings, and I have wondered at the trifles which can upset the
equanimity of some or cause them to show such fretfulness.
When the weather was fine, the camping on the shore was very enjoyable.
Our tent was quickly erected by willing hands; the camp fire was
kindled, and glowed with increasing brightness as the shadows of night
fell around us. The evening meal was soon prepared, and an hour or two
would sometimes be spent in pleasant converse with our dusky friends,
who were most delightful travelling companions. Our days always began
and closed with a religious service. All of our Indian companions in
the two boats on this first trip were Christians, in the best and truest
sense of the word. They were the converts of the earlier missionaries
of our Church. At first they were a little reserved, and acted as
though they imagined we expected them to be very sedate and dignified.
For, like some white folks, they imagined the "black-coat" and his wife
did not believe in laughter or pleasantry. However, we soon disabused
their minds of those erroneous ideas, and before we reached Norway House
we were on the best of terms with each other. We knew but little of
their language, but some of them had a good idea of English, and, using
these as our interpreters, we got along finely.
They were well furnished with Testaments and hymn-books, printed in the
beautiful syllabic characters; and they used them well. This
worshipping with a people who used to us an unknown tongue was at first
rather novel; but it attracted and charmed us at once. We were forcibly
struck with the reverential manner in which they conducted their
devotions. No levity or indifference marred the solemnity of their
religious services. They listened very attentively while one of their
number read to them from the sacred Word, and gave the closest attention
to what I had to say, through an interpreter.
Very sweetly and soothingly sounded the hymns of praise and adoration
that welled up from their musical voices; and though we understood them
not, yet in their earnest prayers there seemed to be so much that was
real and genuine, as in pathetic tones they offered up their petitions,
that we felt it to be a great privilege and a source of much blessing,
when with them we bowed at the mercy-seat of our great loving Father, to
Whom all languages of earth are known, and before Whom all hearts are
open.
Very helpful at times to devout worship were our surroundings. As in
the ancient days, when the vast multitudes gathered around Him on the
seaside and were comforted and cheered by His presence, so we felt on
these quiet shores of the lake that we were worshipping Him Who is
always the same. At times delightful and suggestive were our
environments. With Winnipeg's sunlit waves before us, the blue sky
above us, the dark, deep, primeval forest as our background, and the
massive granite rocks beneath us, we often felt a nearness of access to
Him, the Sovereign of the universe, Who "dwelleth not in temples made
with hands,"--but "Who covereth Himself with light as with a garment;
Who stretcheth out the heavens like a curtain; Who layeth the beams of
His chambers in the waters; Who maketh the clouds his chariot; Who
walketh upon the wings of the wind; Who laid the foundations of the
earth, that it should not be removed for ever."
Our Sabbaths were days of rest. The Christian Indians had been taught
by their faithful missionaries the fourth commandment, and they kept it
well. Although far from their homes and their beloved sanctuary, they
respected the day. When they camped on Saturday night, all the
necessary preparations were made for a quiet, restful Sabbath. All the
wood that would be needed to cook the day's supplies was secured, and
the food that required cooking was prepared. Guns were stowed away, and
although sometimes ducks or other game would come near, they were not
disturbed. Generally two religious services were held and enjoyed. The
Testaments and hymn-books were well used throughout the day, and an
atmosphere of "Paradise Regained" seemed to pervade the place.
At first, long years ago, the Hudson's Bay Company's officials bitterly
opposed the observance of the Sabbath by their boatmen and tripmen; but
the missionaries were true and firm, and although persecution for a time
abounded, eventually right and truth prevailed, and our Christian
Indians were left to keep the day without molestation. And, as has
always been found to be the case in such instances, there was no loss,
but rather gain. Our Christian Indians, who rested the Sabbath day,
were never behindhand. On the long trips into the interior or down to
York Factory or Hudson Bay, these Indian canoe brigades used to make
better time, have better health, and bring up their boats and cargoes in
better shape, than the Catholic Half-breeds or pagan Indians, who pushed
on without any day of rest. Years of studying this question, judging
from the standpoint of the work accomplished and its effects on men's
physical constitution, apart altogether from its moral and religious
aspect, most conclusively taught me that the institution of the one day
in seven as a day of rest is for man's highest good.
Thus we journeyed on, meeting with various adventures by the way. One
evening, rather than lose the advantage of a good wind, our party
resolved to sail on throughout the night. We had no compass or chart,
no moon or fickle Auroras lit up the watery waste. Clouds, dark and
heavy, flitted by, obscuring the dim starlight, and adding to the risk
and danger of our proceeding. On account of the gloom part of the crew
were kept on the watch continually. The bowsman, with a long pole in
his hands, sat in the prow of the boat, alert and watchful. For a long
time I sat with the steersman in the stern of our little craft, enjoying
this weird way of travelling. Out of the darkness behind us into the
vague blackness before us we plunged. Sometimes through the darkness
came the sullen roar and dash of waves against the rocky isles or
dangerous shore near at hand, reminding us of the risks we were running,
and what need there was of the greatest care.
Our camp bed had been spread on some boards in the hinder part of our
little boat; and here Mrs Young, who for a time had enjoyed the
exciting voyage, was now fast asleep. I remained up with "Big Tom"
until after midnight; and then, having exhausted my stock of Indian
words in conversation with him, and becoming weary, I wrapped a blanket
around myself and lay down to rest. Hardly had I reached the land of
dreams, when I was suddenly awakened by being most unceremoniously
thrown, with wife, bedding, bales, boxes, and some drowsy Indians, on
one side of the boat. We scrambled up as well as we could, and
endeavoured to take in our situation. The darkness was intense, but we
could easily make out the fact that our boat was stuck fast. The wind
whistled around us, and bore with such power upon our big sail that the
wonder was that it did not snap the mast or ropes. The sail was quickly
lowered, a lantern was lit, but its flickering light showed no land in
view.
We had run upon a submerged rock, and there we were held fast. In vain
the Indians, using their big oars as poles, endeavoured to push the boat
back into deep water. Finding this impossible, some of them sprang out
into the water which threatened to engulf them; but, with the precarious
footing the submerged rock gave them, they pushed and shouted, when,
being aided by a giant wave, the boat at last was pushed over into the
deep water beyond. At considerable risk and thoroughly drenched, the
brave fellows scrambled on board; the sail was again hoisted, and away
we sped through the gloom and darkness.