The Crocodile.—An Englishman killed by one of these
Monsters.—The Omoroanga Vavarra River.—Hardships.—Beautiful
Scenery.—Lecholètébè’s Treachery.—The Reed-ferry.
As we journeyed up the Teoge, we frequently observed crocodiles basking
in the sun in the more secluded parts of the river. One day, while trying
to trace a wounded antelope, I nearly trod on one of these monsters who
was fast asleep. My foot was already descending on his tail before I was
aware of him. Without daring to move, I gently raised the rifle to my
shoulder, and, with a well-directed ball behind the ear, killed him on
the spot.
One does not often hear of crocodiles in these parts seizing on human
beings when immersed in water, which would seem to prove that these
animals are “man-eaters” from the compulsion of hunger rather than
from habit. Indeed, I have been assured by several persons that there
is little danger of being attacked, provided one makes a great noise
previously to entering the water. Accidents, however, do occur. Only a
few years ago an English gentleman, Mr. R⸺, was carried off by one of
these horrid creatures. He and his companion, Mr. M⸺, who told me the
sad story, had encamped on the banks of the Zouga, and, as a number
of water-fowl were seen disporting themselves on the stream, Mr. R⸺
proceeded there in the hope of obtaining a shot. He soon succeeded in
killing several, and among the rest a Muscovy duck; but he was unable to
secure it for want of a boat.
While looking about for a canoe, he observed a fine antelope approaching;
and, running quickly toward the wagon, which was hard by, he called out
to his men to bring him a rifle. On his return to the river, he found
that the antelope had escaped. He then proceeded toward the spot whence
he had shot at the duck, which was still floating on the surface. His
companion having by this time joined him, he expressed his determination
to possess the bird at any cost, and that he would swim after it. He
confessed, however, that he felt some doubt about the safety of such
a proceeding, adding that he had once been witness to the death of a
man who was seized and destroyed by a shark alongside his own boat.
Notwithstanding this (his own) opinion of the risk he was about to incur,
and the warning of his friend, he undressed and plunged into the stream.
Having swum a little distance, he was observed to throw himself on his
back, as if startled at some object beneath him; but in another moment
he was pursuing his course. When, however, he was about to lay his hands
on the bird, his body was violently convulsed, and, throwing his arms on
high, he uttered a most piercing shriek, after which he was seen to be
gradually drawn under the surface, never to reappear!
On the ninth day after we had entered the Teoge we left the principal
channel and passed into the Omoroanga (little river) Vavarra. This
rivulet is merely one of the small branches of the main stream (formed
by its overflowing its banks) so frequently met with, and which usually
rejoin it after a day or two. The Omoroanga Vavarra is only navigable
with canoes when the Teoge is at its greatest height, and even then the
navigation is of the most intricate description. The boatmen, many of
whom were born and bred in the neighborhood, constantly lose their way.
We passed two nights on the Omoroanga, during which time we were exposed
to much inconvenience and hardship.
Lecholètébè had placed two canoes at my disposal, but the rascally
boatmen had by this time so filled them with their own things that no
place was left for me. The consequence was, as the country was one
succession of swamps, lakes, rivulets, and quagmires, I found myself
early and late immersed in water, sometimes swimming, at others wading
up to my neck. Indeed, from the time that I left my camp on the Zouga to
my return to it, a period of about a month, I scarcely knew what it was
to have a dry thread about me. The only time I could partially dry my
clothes was at night along the bivouac-fire; but then I had to lie down
wet. It would have been ruinous to any constitution not previously inured
to hardships of all kinds.
But I was compensated for what I lost in comfort by the beauty of the
surrounding scenery. Wherever the soil was raised a few feet above the
surface of the water, it was covered by a rich and majestic vegetation.
At length, and after about twelve days’ voyaging, we reached a large
village where the great chief of the Bayeye resided. This was a charming
spot, and one to which the most skillful artist would have had some
difficulty in doing justice. Located on a small island about two hundred
feet long by one hundred in breadth, the village consisted of somewhat
more than a hundred houses, standing in the midst of a beautiful group of
elegant fan-palms, and some gigantic wild fruit-trees. At the foot of the
werft, in a semicircle, the clear, transparent Teoge wound its meandering
course. On every side, as far as the eye could reach, lay stretched a
sea of fresh water, in many places concealed from sight by a covering of
reeds and rushes of every shade and hue, while numerous islands, spread
over its surface, and adorned with rich vegetation, gave to the whole an
indescribably beautiful appearance. This was particularly the case at
sunrise and sunset, when the luxuriant vegetation received additional
charms by the brilliant but softened rays of a tropical sun.
I had been given to understand by Lecholètébè that the chief at whose
werft I had now arrived was to have provided me with other men and other
boats. To save time, as also in accordance with the men’s own wishes, I
sent my principal guide and others to inform the chieftain of my coming,
requesting him to get every thing ready; but, on reaching the place the
following day, I found, to my utter astonishment, that he, with all his
people, had set out that very morning to hunt the sea-cow; and no one
could, or rather would, inform me when the great man was likely to return.
It now occurred to me that I was deceived, and my suspicions at once
fell upon Lecholètébè. Still, hoping I might be mistaken, I waited
patiently for several days, but to no purpose. In the mean time, the
women of the village had secretly informed Timbo, who, as usual, was a
great favorite with the sex, that their husbands would to a certainty not
return for a month, and that even then I could not expect to receive
any assistance from them. I felt excessively mortified at being thus
basely duped, and at once called on the only man left in the place, who,
I was informed, was the chief’s brother, and ordered him to tell me,
without prevarication, the real state of the case. As I had suspected,
Lecholètébè was at the bottom of the affair. The man declared he had
no orders to furnish me with men and boats, but that, if I insisted on
proceeding, he was to give a guide to the next tribe, whence I was to
find my way to Libèbé as well as I could, well knowing that such an
arrangement was quite incompatible with my designs.
It is impossible to describe my feelings at being thus baffled, as,
from the success that had hitherto attended me, I had sanguinely hoped
it would have been in my power fully to carry out all my plans. Here I
was, in the midst of an inundated country of unknown extent, without
men, without conveyances, without provisions—in short, without any
thing necessary for such an expedition. Indeed, I was so completely at
the mercy of the natives that I could not stir a step without their
assistance. Nevertheless, rather than be thus foiled, I determined to
risk the utmost, and directed the promised guide to appear without delay,
declaring my intention of proceeding to Libèbé on foot. But it was quite
clear they had resolved not to let me pass beyond them, for, though, I
waited several days more, the man was not forthcoming.
Finding remonstrances unavailing, I had no alternative but to retrace my
steps, and, accordingly, I requested the temporary chief to prepare the
canoes to convey me back to the Lake. This highly delighted and gratified
the wily savage.
Mortified and annoyed at the shameful manner in which I had been treated,
I was nevertheless glad to have come thus far. I had learned much in this
short time (a summary of which will be given in the following chapters),
which I could not have done had I remained at the Lake, to say nothing
of the beautiful, diversified, and novel scenery which almost daily
presented itself to the view, which alone was a sufficient reward for my
troubles and anxieties.
[Illustration: REED-FERRY.[93]]