Start from Kobis.—Meet Bechuanas.—False Report.—Wonderful
Race of Men.—The Baobob-tree.—The Ngami.—First Impressions of
the Lake.—Reflections.—Experience sonic Disappointment.—Reach
the Zouga River and encamp near it.—Interview with Chief
Lecholètébè.—Information refused.—Immoderate Laughter.—Presents
to the Chief.—His Covetousness.—His Cruelty.—Formidable
Difficulties.—Author permitted to proceed northward.
Our first day’s march from Kobis lay through an exceedingly dense
“wait-a-bit” thorn coppice, crossed in every direction by numerous paths
of rhinoceroses and elephants. The soil consisted of soft and yielding
sand, which made traveling very fatiguing. The second day, at an early
hour, we arrived at a fine vley of water, where I was met by a number of
Bechuanas (among whom were some of the leading men of the tribe) waiting
to conduct me to Lecholètébè, who had given them orders to render me any
assistance I might require. Whether this was from courtesy, or to serve
his own purposes, I am uncertain; though, from what I afterward saw of
the chief, I am inclined to think it was entirely from selfish motives.
The men in question belonged to a tribe called Batoana, residing on the
shores of the Lake Ngami. They were remarkably fine-looking fellows,
stout and well built, with Caffre features and longish hair. Their
appearance, indeed, was not unlike that of the Damaras. One and all
were armed with a shield (oblong in form, and made of a single fold of
ox-hide), and a bundle of assegais of various descriptions, each provided
with several barbs. What with these formidable weapons and their martial
bearing, the aspect of these savages was imposing and warlike. They wore
few or no ornaments.
By a liberal supply of tobacco and flesh, we soon became excellent
friends; but all my endeavors to elicit information about the country
were fruitless. They merely shrugged their shoulders, urging as an excuse
their ignorance of such matters; they said, however, that their chief
would, no doubt, satisfy my curiosity on these points.
We bivouacked at the vley, where a great number of Bushmen—friends and
relatives of those at Kobis—also happened to be encamped. Just as I had
retired to rest, and while watching with interest the animated features
and gestures of our new friends, the Bechuanas, who, by a glorious fire,
were regaling themselves with the pipe and the “fleshpots,” Bonfield
came running up to me in great haste, saying, “Please, sir, the Bushmen
tell us that Sebetoane, having heard of our coming, had sent a message
to Lecholètébè with orders to dispatch people to waylay and kill us, and
that these were the very individuals to whom the task was intrusted!”
Being myself by this time pretty well used to similarly absurd and
unfounded stories, and knowing that I had nothing to fear, I took no
notice of the communication, but again retired with as much unconcern as
if I had been in a civilized country. This, however, was far from the
case with my men, for the following morning I learned that their anxiety
had kept them awake during the greater part of the night, and that some
had actually packed up their things, intending to steal away secretly.
The next morning proved the groundlessness of the report. The Bushmen, we
found, had fabricated the story as a means of prolonging my stay among
them, in the anticipation of obtaining an occasional gorge from the
spoils of the chase. The low cunning of this people is only equaled by
their credulity. To them, no tales can be too ridiculous and absurd for
belief. For instance, my Bushmen guides amused me by relating one evening
that a tribe of black people had just taken up their abode a little in
advance of us, “whose stomachs rested on their knees, and whose whole
aspect was of the most unnatural and ferocious character.”
About noon on the same day we were again _en route_. Instead of feeling
our way by the zigzag tracks made by rhinoceroses and other wild beasts,
our guides now took us a straight cut across the country, which was
densely wooded.
The “wait-a-bit” thorns were extremely harassing, tearing to ribbons our
clothes, carosses, and even pack-saddle bags, made of strong ox-hide.
Notwithstanding the wooded character of the country, it affords excellent
pasturage; and the numerous old wells and pits found between Tunobis and
the Ngami clearly indicate that these regions have, at no very remote
period, been largely resorted to by some pastoral people.
I hoped to reach the Lake by the evening, but sunset found us still at
a distance from the object of our enterprise. We encamped in a dense
brake, near to which were several gigantic baobob[82]-trees, the first we
had seen; the stems of some we judged to be from forty to sixty feet in
circumference. Finding abundance of fuel, the wood was soon illuminated
by numerous watch-fires, around which, besides my own party, were grouped
many a merry and laughing savage, each with his shield planted as a guard
behind him. Altogether, the scene was striking and picturesque.
The return of daylight found us again on the move. The morning being cool
and pleasant, and our goal near, the whole party was in high spirits,
and we proceeded cheerily on our road. I myself kept well ahead, in
hope of obtaining the first glimpse of Ngami. The country hereabout
was finely undulated, and in every distant vale with a defined border
I thought I saw a lake. At last a blue line of great extent appeared
in the distance, and I made sure it was the long-sought object; but I
was still doomed to disappointment. It turned out to be merely a large
hollow, in the rainy season filled with water, but now dry and covered
by saline incrustations. Several valleys, separated from each other by
ridges of sand, bearing a rank vegetation, were afterward crossed. On
reaching the top of one of these ridges, the natives, who were in advance
of our party, suddenly came to a halt, and, pointing straight before
them, exclaimed, “Ngami! Ngami!” In an instant I was with the men. There,
indeed, at no very great distance, lay spread before me an immense sheet
of water, only bounded by the horizon—the object of my ambition for
years, and for which I had abandoned home and friends, and risked my life.
The first sensation occasioned by this sight was very curious. Long as
I had been prepared for that event, it now almost overwhelmed me. It
was a mixture of pleasure and pain. My temples throbbed, and my heart
beat so violently that I was obliged to dismount and lean against a
tree for support until the excitement had subsided. The reader will
no doubt think that thus giving way to my feelings was very childish;
but “those who know that the first glimpse of some great object which
we have read or dreamed of from earliest recollection is ever a moment
of interest enjoyment, will forgive the transport.” I felt unfeignedly
thankful for the unbounded goodness and gracious assistance which I had
experienced from Providence throughout the whole of this prolonged and
perilous journey. My trials had been many; but, my dearest aspirations
being attained, the difficulties were all forgotten. And here I could
not avoid passing my previous life in review. I had penetrated into
deserts almost unknown to civilized man; had suffered the extremity of
hunger and thirst, cold and heat; and had undergone desperate toil,
sometimes nearly in solitude, and often without shelter during dreary
nights in vast wildernesses haunted by beasts of prey. My companions
were mostly savages. I was exposed to numerous perils by land and by
water, and endured torments from wounds inflicted by wild animals. But
I was mercifully preserved by the Creator through the manifold dangers
that hovered round my path. To Him are due all homage, thanksgiving, and
adoration.
After feasting my eyes for a while on the interesting scene before me,
we descended from the higher ground toward the Lake, which we reached in
about an hour and a half. But, though we breathed a fresher atmosphere,
no perfumed or balmy scents, as might have been anticipated on the
borders of a tropical lake, were wafted on the breeze.
Whether my expectations had been raised to too high a pitch, or that
the grandeur of this inland sea and the luxuriance of the surrounding
vegetation had been somewhat exaggerated by travelers, I must confess
that, on a closer inspection, I felt rather disappointed. In saying
this, I must admit having visited it at a season of the year little
favorable to the display of its grandeur. But, if I am not mistaken,
its discoverers, Messrs. Oswell, Livingstone, and Murray, saw it under
no more auspicious circumstances. The eastern extremity, however, the
only portion ever seen by the gentlemen in question, certainly possesses
superior attractions to the western, or where I first struck upon the
Ngami.
The Lake was now very low, and, at the point first seen by us,
exceedingly shallow. The water, which had a very bitter and disagreeable
taste, was only approachable in a few places, partly on account of the
mud, and partly because of the thick coating of reeds and rushes that
lined the shore, and which were a favorite resort of a great variety of
water-fowl. Many species new to us were among them; but we had no time
to spare for approaching the birds.
We twice bivouacked on the south border of Ngami before coming in sight
of Lecholètébè’s residence, situated on the north bank of the River
Zouga, and at a short distance from where its waters separate themselves
from the Lake.
I had accomplished the journey from Kobis in five days. With unencumbered
oxen, it might, with some exertion, be made in half this time.
Lecholètébè requested me to pitch my tent in his immediate vicinity;
but, feeling fatigued, and well knowing the inconvenience of being in
too close proximity to the natives, we encamped on the south side of the
Zouga.
I determined to pay my respects to the chief at an early hour on the
following morning. To make a favorable impression on the mind of savages
at the first interview is of great importance, as much of their future
good-will toward one depends on this, and scarcely any thing propitiates
them more than outward show.
Accordingly, at the contemplated hour, I donned my best apparel, which
consisted of jacket and trowsers of fine white duck, a handsome red
velvet sash, lined with silk of the same color, and a gold-embroidered
skull-cap.
The two last articles of dress were a memento of a dear female friend,
and I had pledged myself to wear them on the first _grand_ occasion.
Having crossed the Zouga River, a few minutes’ walk brought me to Batoana
town, the capital and residence of Lecholètébè. I found the chief seated
on a wooden stool, in the midst of forty or fifty of his followers,
drinking coffee within a stout semicircular palisading. He was attired in
a half-European and half-barbarous costume; his lower extremities were
immersed in a pair of wide moleskin trowsers; he had incased his feet in
socks and “veld” shoes, while from his shoulders depended gracefully a
very handsome jackal caross. This latter, however, he almost immediately
exchanged for waistcoat and jacket.
Piet the Griqua, and a Bechuana man, whom a trader (then at the Lake)
had kindly placed at my disposal, were my interpreters. After the first
salutations were over, I explained to the chief the motives of my visit,
the friendly wishes of the British government at the Cape, and so forth.
He listened to my story with apparent attention and in profound silence,
eyeing me the whole time suspiciously. But he asked no question, nor did
he venture any remark.
Having conveyed to him all I had to say, I prepared to depart.
Previously, however, to taking leave, I requested him to have the
goodness to give me some information about his country, to which he
abruptly replied,
“I know nothing at all!”
“Is there, then,” I said, “none of your people who can furnish me with
some account of it?”
“No,” was his immediate answer.
I was annoyed, but felt the necessity of concealing my vexation; and,
soon after rising, I said, “Well, Lecholètébè, perhaps, when we become
better acquainted, you will be more communicative. In the mean time, when
it suits you, come over to my encampment and have a chat, and maybe you
will find something there to captivate your fancy.”
I had no occasion to say this twice, as I too soon found to my cost.
Unlike our fat friend, King Nangoro, who had the _courtesy_ to make us
wait about three days before he condescended to see us, the Bechuana
chief could scarcely restrain his curiosity for as many hours.
When he arrived I was busy preparing some skins of birds and snakes,
which caused no small amount of jesting among his followers. One fellow,
more inquisitive and impertinent than the rest, approached close to
me, and, seizing one of the reptiles by the tail, held it up before
the multitude, which were now thronging my tent to inconvenience, and,
addressing to it some unintelligible words, the whole assembly burst out
into a deafening roar of laughter. Indeed, the mirth became so outrageous
as to throw the party into convulsions, many casting themselves at full
length on the ground, with their hands tightly clasped across their
stomachs, as if in fear of bursting, while their greasy cheeks became
furrowed with tears trickling down in streams. Fancy, reader, a _royal
cortége_ prostrated in the dust by laughter! Although this merriment was,
no doubt, at my expense, the sight more amused than annoyed me.
As soon as the noise had subsided, I brought forward my presents for the
chief, consisting of beads, knives, tobacco, snuff, steel chains, rings,
blue calico, red woolen caps, and trinkets of various kinds. Without
deigning even a look of satisfaction, Lecholètébè silently distributed
the goods among the principal of his men who were grouped around him,
reserving, apparently, nothing to himself. This being done, he looked
anxiously round, from which I inferred that some ungratified desire was
still on his heart. Nor was I deceived; for all at once he inquired
whether I had not brought him some powder and lead, which he might barter
for ivory. I told him that I had some; but, firstly, it was not more
than I myself wanted; and, secondly, I was prohibited by the British
government at the Cape from disposing of either arms or ammunition, and
that I could not think of disobeying these orders.
At this declaration his countenance fell, and I saw clearly that he
was very much annoyed. But I was prepared for his displeasure; and, by
opportunely placing in his hand a double-barreled pistol, which I had
previously been informed he coveted excessively, and which I begged him
to accept as a memento of my visit, his visage soon beamed with delight
and satisfaction, and we became excellent friends.
When Europeans first visited the Lake, they were, I am told, liberally
entertained by Lecholètébè; but, whatever civility he might have shown
to strangers in former times, much can not be said in favor of his
hospitality at the present day. During my whole stay at the Lake, I never
received from him so much as a handful of corn or a cup of milk. On the
contrary, _he_, while we ourselves were almost starving, was in the habit
of begging food daily from _me_.
If any thing takes his fancy—no matter what, it may be the shirt you
wear—he has no scruple in asking you for it at once. Upon your refusal,
he will, perhaps, leave you for a time, but is sure to return and
renew his request with the greatest pertinacity, never ceasing his
solicitations till, by his vexatious importunity, he has succeeded in
getting the object of his desire—a line of policy the success of which he
seems fully to understand.
The arrival of several wagons at the Lake at the same time puts him in
the highest glee. On these occasions he never fails to make his rounds,
craving bread from one, sugar from another, coffee from a third, meat
from a fourth, and so on.
The traders, however, know how to take advantage of this weakness in
his character, and often make him pay dearly for such articles as may
captivate his fancy; for instance, I have known a man to get a good-sized
bull-elephant tusk for three common copper drinking-cups![83]
Lecholètébè possesses great power over his people, when he chooses to
exercise it; but I am inclined to think their subjection is attributable
more to superstition and the force of custom than to any real regard
for his person. Generally speaking, he is not of a cruel disposition;
but that he holds human life in very light estimation, the following
incident, which came under my own immediate notice, serves to show.
Having lately bought some horses, two Bushmen were ordered to take charge
of them; but, unfortunately, by their neglect, one of the animals fell
into a quagmire, and was suffocated. Being afraid to tell the truth, they
reported to the chief that the horse had died from the effects of the
bite of a snake. On hearing this, Lecholètébè questioned the men as to
the part of the body wounded by the reptile, and being told that it was
in the head, he ordered the men to lead him to the place, that he might
see for himself. On arriving at the spot, he at once saw how the case
stood, and told the Bushmen that the animal had not died from the bite of
a snake, but was evidently choked in the mud, to which they confessed, as
there was no longer any chance of concealing the truth. Without further
question or remark, the chief ordered the halter of the dead horse to
be loosened, and the hands and feet of the Bushmen to be secured with
it. This being done, they were thrown into the mud alongside the dead
quadruped, where, of course, they soon miserably perished, Lecholètébè
coolly exclaiming, “There, now mind the horse!”
Another instance of the little value he sets on human (rather _Bushman_)
life I have upon good authority. A Bushman lad, who had long been
successfully engaged in sheep-stealing, was at length detected, and, as
a punishment for his crimes, was tied to a tree, and practiced upon with
guns at the long distance of two hundred paces.
The object I had now chiefly in view was to visit a place called Libèbé,
situated considerably to the north of the Lake, not so much to see the
country as to collect information in regard to the mighty waters (part
of which are tributaries to the Ngami) lately brought to light in that
remote region, as also to ascertain if any water communication existed
with the sea. But many difficulties were in the way. My people refused
almost to a man to accompany me; and as our agreement only bound them
as far as the Ngami, I could not compel them to go on. The parts that
I should have to pass through are infected with fevers fatal to human
life; and then, again, the tsetse fly abounds, which, from the ravages it
causes among cattle, renders traveling by land almost impossible.
The only way left was to penetrate northward by water, if practicable;
but here again I found serious impediments. I had no boat of my own, and
Lecholètébè (like all native chiefs) was known to be particularly hostile
to any attempt to pass beyond his territory. Not the most alluring
promises of presents and rewards had yet succeeded in inducing him to
assist any one in this matter. Consequently, I could not expect that he
would treat me differently, the rather as I was really not in a position
to offer him a bribe of any value. It being a darling scheme of mine,
however, to penetrate to Libèbé, I was determined on carrying it out, if
possible.
Accordingly, I seized the first favorable opportunity of broaching the
subject to the chief, and requested he would furnish me with men and
canoes. To my great astonishment, but no less delight, and without the
slightest objection, he agreed to my proposal. As, however, I could not
flatter myself that I had produced a more favorable impression than any
other traveler, I suspected deceit of some kind, and the sequel proved I
was not mistaken in my conjecture.