Departure from Ghanzé.—Nectar in the Desert.—Difficulty in
finding Water.—Arrive at Abeghan.—Unsuccessful Chase.—A
“Charm.”—How to make the undrinkable drinkable.—An Elephant
wounded and killed.—Bold and courageous Dog.—Kobis.—Author
seized with a singular Malady.—Messengers dispatched to the
Chief of the Lake Ngami.—A large troop of Elephants.—Author
kills a huge Male.—Lions and Giraffe.—Author’s hair-breadth
Escapes: from a black Rhinoceros; from a white Rhinoceros;
from two troops of Elephants; he shoots a couple of his
Adversaries.—Where to aim at an Elephant.
Having enjoyed a good deal of shooting, and feasted ourselves and Bushmen
on rhinoceros flesh to our hearts’ content, we left Ghanzé on the 23d of
June. The first portion of the country through which our road led was
very thorny; but the bush gradually opened, and we journeyed with more
ease.
In the early part of the day after our departure I caused my horse to be
saddled, and rode off to look for water. About noon I reached a hollow,
of a similar nature as Ghanzé, but on a smaller scale. I thought I
perceived indications of the existence of water; and having “hoppled” the
steed, went in search of it. The elephants, however, had so trampled the
place, that, though I could not doubt of water being there, I soon found
that it was only to be had by a vast deal of labor.
While reflecting on what was best to do, whether to remain and clear
out the pit, or to push on in hopes of finding another watering-place,
I observed several small birds flying in and out at a small crevice in
the limestone rock. Running to the spot, I discovered a narrow circular
aperture, about two feet broad, and perhaps twice as much in depth,
with something at the bottom reflecting light. Taking for granted that
it was water which thus shone, and being tormented with thirst, I leaped
into the hole and greedily swallowed a large quantity. I was too eager
to be able to distinguish its taste, but, having somewhat slaked my
burning thirst, my palate resumed its function, and I thought I had never
experienced so abominable a flavor. Imagine my horror when, taking a
small portion in the hollow of my hand and holding it up to the light,
I found I had been drinking _blood_, mixed with the refuse of some
wild animal! I shall never forget the loathing I felt on making this
discovery, and, though my stomach was presently relieved of its nauseous
contents, I long retained a qualmish sensation. The mystery was, however,
cleared up. On a more close examination of the aperture in question, it
was found that a herd of zebras had, like myself, been looking for water,
and, in so doing, one of them had fallen in, and been found and killed by
the Bushmen. Hence the blood and offal of the unfortunate animal.
As soon as the men arrived with the cattle, every person who could be
spared was employed in cleaning out the hole where I had at first seen
indications of water. Large fragments of rock, which the bulky forms
of elephants and other gigantic animals had pushed into the cavity,
were removed after immense exertions. Occasionally, in displacing a
firmly-imbedded stone or piece of wood, the pure liquid would gush forth
with great vigor, and we flattered ourselves that we had found the “eye”
of a spring, but the next instant all our hopes vanished. After eight or
nine hours’ hard work, our best endeavors to discover any steady supply
of water proved abortive. The little we _did_ obtain—sufficient for the
horse and dogs—was of such questionable quality that, thirsty as we
were, it was with the utmost repugnance we could prevail on ourselves to
swallow a few mouthfuls.
At break of day the next morning we renewed our labors, but with no
better success. I now became anxious for the safety of the cattle, which
began to show symptoms of distress. Mounting my horse, and guided by
two active Bushmen, I rode briskly in the direction of the Lake, giving
orders to my men to continue their exertions during the remainder of the
day; but, should they not succeed in obtaining a sufficiency of drink for
the cattle by the next morning, they were to follow on my tracks.
I had ridden long. The sun had already sunk below the tree-tops, and
yet no water. The Bushmen, however, gave me to understand by signs that
it was not far off, and the number of wild-beast-tracks gave weight to
their assertion. At last the noisy chattering of Guinea-fowls, the cooing
of doves, and the screams of paroquets broke on my ear, and indicated a
more favorable vicinity. Putting spurs to my horse, I struck into a large
“game-path,” and just as the sun was sinking below the horizon I came
alongside a large sheet of clear water. I felt truly thankful, and only
wanted my own people and cattle to complete my happiness. This place,
according to my interpreter, was called Abeghan.
At dark I tied up my horse some little distance from the water, cut him
an ample supply of grass with my hunting-knife, and, having struck a
light for the Bushmen, and given them, as a reward for their services,
the piece of flesh we carried with us, I shouldered my rifle, and
proceeded to the fountain with a view of procuring something for the
larder. It was a glorious night. The sky was dark, but studded with
innumerable twinkling stars reflected in the watery mirror below. For
some fifty paces the locality was tolerably free from bushes, and on one
side the prospect extended nearly a quarter of a mile through an avenue
lined on either side with noble Damara “parent trees.” Elsewhere the
darkness was impenetrable. Silence, like that of the sepulchre, reigned
in this remote solitude, relieved at long intervals by the hyæna and the
jackal lapping the water, and the distant grunting of the rhinoceros.
The latter, however, took care not to come within range of the rifle.
At the return of daylight, having then been already twenty-four hours
without food, I felt very hungry, and hastened back to the Bushmen to
see whether they had left any of the flesh I had given them; but I might
as well have searched the dens of ravenous wolves as the lair of these
starved “children of the desert.” Indeed, they looked very crestfallen
when I announced my bad luck.
Fearing my men might possibly delay in following me, I wrote a few
hurried lines in my note-book, and tearing out the leaf, handed it to
one of the guides with the intimation that he must hasten back whence
he came; but, having never seen a piece of paper before, he received it
at first with caution, and, taking it between two of his fingers, began
blowing on it, thinking probably it was a kind of “charm” for better
luck. Seeing me smile, he took courage and blew still harder. This was
too much, and I burst into a roar of laughter, in which I was heartily
joined by my tawny friend. However, after numerous signs and gestures, I
made him comprehend my wishes, and off he started to meet the caravan.
After another twelve hours’ fasting and waiting, and just as it was
getting dark, I had the satisfaction to see the whole party arrive
safely. They had succeeded in procuring enough water for almost all the
oxen.
To guard against thirst by the way, the men had brought two wooden kegs
of water from the last halting-place. Seeing Timbo about to take his
fill from one of the vessels in question, I observed to him that there
was surely no longer any necessity to partake of such villainous stuff.
He nevertheless drank, exclaiming, “Master, the water is capital!”
“Nonsense,” I ejaculated, skeptically, “you don’t mean to say that
that abominable fluid is good?” “Well,” he rejoined, “if master won’t
believe me, he better try it himself.” Less from any faith in what he
said than from curiosity, I did taste it, and, truly enough, it was
“capital.” Even the smell had vanished. Every body agreed in praising
its excellence. I could not account for so great a marvel, but supposed
that under the influence of the sun the water had undergone some chemical
change. In the course of twelve hours, four gallons of turbid water had,
without any apparent cause, been converted into a fluid as bright and
sweet as was ever drawn from fresh spring.
On leaving the pestiferous fountain, I intrusted young Bonfield with my
watch, in order that he might ascertain the number of hours they were on
the road. On again meeting the lad, he told me in a flurried manner that
he thought there was something the matter with the “piece,” as it would
not go properly. The truth at once flashed across me. In winding it up,
he had forcibly pushed it the wrong way, and thus made it useless. I can
not describe my feelings on ascertaining this fact. My chronometer and
another watch had some time previously ceased to act. This was my last
time-piece. I had no longer the means of going on with my observations.
Latitudes I could still manage, but as for longitudes, the most important
part, it was out of the question—at least I thought so at the time. I had
indulged in the hope of being able to settle the position of the Lake.
I was totally unacquainted with the mechanism of a watch; but necessity
has no law, and, as a last chance, I determined to pull it to pieces, in
order to ascertain the cause of its stopping. Twice I did so, and twice I
successfully put it together, but it would not go properly. I dissected
it a third time, but was even less fortunate than before, for the chain
snapped in two places. Nothing daunted, however, I procured a very fine,
well-dried gut, with which I tried to splice it; but it is easy to
imagine the result. I believe at that moment I would have freely given
the best half of what I possessed in this world—and that, perhaps, after
all, was not much—for a good strong watch.
The second night after my arrival at Abeghan, and when lying in wait near
the water for wild animals, I was surprised by three huge bull-elephants,
whose approach had been so silent that, before I was aware of their
presence, they were within ten paces of me. I was ambushed in a very
exposed place, but nevertheless stoutly held my ground, and, taking n
steady aim at the fore leg of the leader, fired. As he wheeled about
I saluted him with the contents of the second barrel. He gave a loud
shriek, and, curling up his trunk, trotted quickly away. The next day we
followed many a weary mile on his track. He had separated from the rest;
but we were unable to overtake him. Some time afterward, however, I heard
of his death. The Bushmen brought the tusks.
The same evening I shot a couple of rhinoceroses. One of them, on
receiving my ball, made a headlong charge, and was so close upon me that,
to avoid actual contact, I threw myself backward and fell to the ground.
He then ran a few hundred yards, when he came to a stand. At break of day
my men went on his trail. He had still strength enough to make a dash at
them, and would probably have laid hold of some of them, had not a small
bitch (half terrier and half bull dog), called “Venus” (in derision of
her ugliness), caught the enraged animal by the lower lip, where she
stuck with such tenacity that the rhinoceros, with all his fury, was
unable to shake her off. She only relinquished her hold when her huge
antagonist was fairly laid prostrate by a ball.
But the sagacity of this favorite dog was as great as her courage.
Being now in a game country, all sorts of beasts of prey abounded, more
especially jackals, which might be seen running about by dozens. In
order not to frighten the elephants and other large animals, we were in
the habit of encamping some little way from the water, to which Miss
“Venus” regularly resorted to bathe and drink. On perceiving a jackal,
she instantly crouched, looking very timid. “Reynard,” mistaking her
posture as an indication of fear, and probably thinking that, from her
diminutive size, she would prove an easy conquest, boldly approached his
supposed victim. But he had reckoned without mine host; for the instant
the cunning dog found her antagonist sufficiently near, she leaped
like a cat at his throat, and once there, the beast had no chance. She
then returned to camp, where her contented looks and bloody jaws soon
attracted the attention of the men, who immediately went on her track and
brought the jackal, who was valued on account of his fur.
Having dried some of the flesh of the rhinoceroses, and given the rest to
the hungry Bushmen, who had already begun to flock round us, we set out
for Kobis, which we reached after less than two hours’ journeying. This
place, owing probably to heavy rains at no very distant period, was a
magnificent sheet of water (a glorious sight to our thirsty imagination),
swarming with geese and ducks. From the number of well and freshly
trodden paths, we conjectured it to be the great stronghold of game; nor
were we disappointed. I therefore determined to devote a few days here
to shooting, and selected my camp with caution and to the best of my
judgment.
I had not been long settled in my new quarters when some Bushmen made
their appearance, carrying bundles of reeds (intended as shafts for their
arrows), which they had brought from the Lake Ngami, or “Tlannis,” as
they called it in their language. They had been five days on the road,
but said it might be reached in two. This was cheerful news. But I was
nearly foiled in my plans on the threshold of the object of my ambition.
Having late one night, with much danger and difficulty, succeeded in
dispatching an enormously large white rhinoceros, I fell asleep toward
morning, overpowered by the exertion and fatigue of several previous
nights’ watching. I was awakened by a smarting sensation a little
below the left knee: and when I reached my people the pain had become
intolerable. I was compelled to go to bed immediately. The next day the
affected part was much inflamed. The skin became so tender that I could
not bear even the touch of my linen; and when little George applied
(though with the tenderest care) the lotion I had prescribed, I screamed
with anguish. No position suited me. If I was compelled to change, which
could only be effected by another person’s assistance, the movement was
agonizing.
Apprehending that my illness might be of some duration, and knowing but
too well the character of savages, I deemed it advisable to dispatch
one or two of my men with a few trifling presents to Lecholètébè, the
chief of the Bechuanas and the other people who inhabited the borders of
the Lake Ngami, to inform him of my arrival in his neighborhood and the
motive of my journey. Timbo, and Piet the Griqua, were selected to carry
out my wishes.
While anxiously awaiting their return, we once more ran short of flesh.
I possessed a few sheep, it is true, but I was afraid to kill them, not
knowing what the future had in store for me.
I therefore dispersed my men over the surrounding country; but, though
they met with game in abundance, from mismanagement and bad shooting they
were unable to bag a single animal.
One evening I desperately resolved to go to the water myself, in the hope
of succeeding better. Accordingly, I ordered my servants to prepare a
“skärm,” and to carry me there, taking the chance of being run over or
gored by elephants or rhinoceroses; for, in my disabled state, it was
impossible, should any animal charge, to get out of its way. Seeing my
helpless condition, the men remonstrated, but I was resolved to go, and
fortune favored me.
I had patiently waited till nigh morning without seeing any thing but
hyænas and jackals. I believe these creatures knew I would not hurt them,
for they approached within a very few paces, staring and laughing at me
in the most impudent manner. I threw gravel pebbles at them, but this
only served to increase their mockery. I could stand it no longer, but
hurled my camp-chair at their heads, when they quickly betook themselves
to flight.
Scarcely had they made their exit than I heard the heavy tramp of
elephants. At this sound my heart beat violently, but it was only
momentarily. The next instant I recovered my self-possession. Pushing
my gun gently over the “skärm,” I quietly waited (without daring to
think of my poor leg) the approach of the giants. Nearer and nearer
they came; their steps were more distinct and measured; confused forms
were seen advancing among the trees. Gradually they assumed shape;
and, lo! suddenly a huge elephant stood out in bold relief against the
sky line; then another, and another, till the ground became alive with
their numbers. There must have been at least fifty. They hesitated for
a moment, but then came swiftly on by a broad path at right angles to
and within a dozen feet of my place of concealment. I scarcely dared to
breathe. The leader stood conspicuously forth from the rest, and, as a
matter of course, I selected him for a mark. Having allowed the huge
creature to pass a few paces beyond me, so as to have an opportunity of a
second shot, I gave a low whistle, which instantly arrested the attention
of the brutes, who, partially raising their huge ears, and describing
with their trunks eccentric circles through the air, seemed anxiously to
inquire the cause of the strange noise. This was my opportunity; and, in
an instant, the forest resounded with the report of the gun. Curling up
his trunk, the stricken animal uttered a faint cry, and, turning sharply
round, staggered back whence he came. It was clear the wound he had
received was mortal; but, to make more sure, I gave him the contents of
my second barrel, though apparently without effect. Having reached the
skirts of the wood, he tottered, and, plunging violently forward, came
heavily to the ground.
I had eagerly watched the scene; and now, strange to relate, that the
danger and excitement was over, I was seized with a violent tremor. After
a time, however, when my nerves had become somewhat composed, I pushed
down part of the inclosure, and, though crippled, crawled on all fours up
to the carcass. Having ascertained that life was extinct, I scrambled on
to the back of the defunct elephant, where, like a schoolboy, I seated
myself in triumph.
By this time the day began to dawn. Being within hearing of the camp, and
feeling chilly, I shouted to my people to bring some fire. But, though I
received no answer, I could distinctly hear them in earnest conversation,
as if discussing some weighty matter. I shouted again and again, but with
no better success. Being convinced they must have heard me, I was puzzled
and vexed at not receiving a reply. At last, after having waited fully a
quarter of an hour, I observed a number of flickering lights, resembling
so many will-o’-the-wisps, and soon afterward I was joined by my men. The
mystery of their unaccountable silence to me was presently explained. It
appeared that on first hearing my shouts, which they took to be cries of
distress, they were struck with fear and astonishment; and, as the shouts
proceeded from a rather different quarter to that where they had left
me on the previous evening, they were led to suppose that some savage
beast had carried me away. Their own loud talking, it seemed, had arisen
in debating in what manner they could best assist me. I could not help
saying to myself, “How brave and considerate!”
There was now no want of flesh, and the result was great rejoicings. The
report of my success spread like wildfire, and the animal was scarcely
cold before scores of hungry Bushmen—like so many vultures—had assembled
to participate in the feast. Before noon, with the exception of the
sternum, the head, and some of the larger bones, every vestige of the
giant beast had disappeared. The way in which the Bushmen gorge on the
carcass of elephants is very disgusting; and the process of cutting it
up, in which they show no little method and dexterity, is nearly equally
so.
Elephants, rhinoceroses, gnoos, zebras, &c., were now shot almost
nightly. Giraffes were not very numerous in this neighborhood, but
occasionally they made their appearance at the pool, when I managed to
get a shot.[78]
Late one evening, in another part of the country, I had badly wounded
a lion, and at an early hour on the succeeding morning was following
the bloody tracks of the beast, in the hope of putting an end to his
career. Presently we came upon the “spoor” of a whole troop of lions,
as also that of a solitary giraffe. So many tracks confused us; and
while endeavoring to pick out from the rest those of the wounded lion, I
observed my native attendants suddenly rush forward, and the next instant
the jungle reechoed with shouts of triumph. Thinking they had discovered
the lion we were in pursuit of, I also hurried forward; but imagine my
surprise when, emerging into an opening in the jungle, I saw, not a dead
lion, as I expected, but five living lions (two males and three females),
two of whom were in the act of pulling down a splendid giraffe, the other
three watching, close at hand, and with devouring looks, the deadly
strife. The beautiful illustration facing the title-page of this volume
is an exact representation of this most interesting incident.
The scene was of so imposing a nature that, for the moment, I forgot
I carried a gun. The natives, however, in anticipation of a “glorious
gorge,” dashed madly forward, and, with the most piercing shrieks and
yells, compelled the lions to beat a hasty retreat.
When I reached the giraffe, now stretched at full length on the sand, it
made a few ineffectual attempts to raise its neck; its body heaved and
quivered for a moment, and the next instant the poor animal was dead.
It had received several deep gashes about the flanks and chest, caused
by the claws and teeth of its fierce assailants. The strong and tough
muscles of the neck were also bitten through.
All thought of pursuing the wounded lion was now out of the question. The
natives remained gorging on the carcass of the camelopard until it was
devoured. A day or two afterward, however, I had the good fortune to fall
in with my royal antagonist, and finished him without much difficulty.
At Kobis and the neighborhood I enjoyed shooting to perfection.[79] But I
had many hair-breadth escapes from elephants and rhinoceroses.
[Illustration: THE APPROACH OF ELEPHANTS.]
One fine moonlight night, when snugly ensconced in my “skärm,” and
contemplating the strange but picturesque scene before me, my reverie
was interrupted by the inharmonious grunting of a black rhinoceros. He
was evidently in bad humor, for, as he emerged from among the trees into
more open ground, I observed him madly charging any thing and every thing
that he encountered, such as bushes, stones, &c. Even the whitened skulls
and skeletons of his own species, lying scattered about on the ground,
were attacked with inconceivable fury. I was much amused at his eccentric
pastime; but, owing to the openness of the ground, and the quantity of
the limestone thereabout, which made objects more distinct, he was not
easy of approach. However, after divesting myself of my shoes, and all
the more conspicuous parts of my dress, I managed to crawl—pushing my gun
before me—to within a short distance of the snorting beast. As he was
advancing in a direct line toward me, I did not like to fire, because one
has little chance of killing the rhinoceros when in that position. Having
approached to within a few feet of me, his attention was attracted, and
suddenly uttering one of those strange “blowing” noises so peculiar to
the beast when alarmed or enraged, he prepared to treat me in a similar
manner to the stones and skulls he had just so unceremoniously tossed
about. Not a moment was to be lost; and, in self-defense, I fired at
his head. I shall never forget the confusion of the animal on receiving
the contents of my gun. Springing nearly perpendicularly into the air,
and to the height of many feet, he came down again with a thump that
seemed to make the earth tremble; then plunging violently forward (in
doing which he all but trampled on me), he ran round and round the spot
for fully five minutes, enveloping every object in a cloud of dust.
At last he dashed into the wood and was hidden from view. Not finding
blood on his tracks, I had no reason to suppose he was much hurt. My
notion is, the bullet struck his horn, partially stunning him with its
jarring violence. Had my gun missed fire when he charged, it is more than
probable I should have been impaled.
Again: having on a certain night stalked to within a few paces of a huge
white rhinoceros (a female as it proved), I put a ball in her shoulder,
but it nearly cost me dear; for, guided by the flash of the gun, she
rushed upon me with such fury that I had only time to throw myself on my
back, in which position I remained motionless. This saved my life; for,
not observing me, she came to a sudden halt just as her feet were about
to crush my body. She was so near to me that I felt the saliva from her
mouth trickle on my face! I was in an agony of suspense, though, happily,
only for a moment; for, having impatiently sniffed the air, she wheeled
about, and made off at her utmost speed. I then saw, for the first time,
that her calf was in company, and at once recognized the pair as old
acquaintances, and as specially vicious animals.
On another occasion, when the night was very dark, I crept to within
a short distance of seven bull elephants, and was endeavoring to pick
out the largest, when I was startled by a peculiar rumbling noise close
behind me. Springing to my feet, I perceived, to my surprise and alarm,
a semicircle of female elephants, with their calves, bearing down upon
me. My position was critical, being between two fires, so to say, and I
had no other choice than either to plunge into the pool, which could only
be crossed by swimming, in the face of the male elephants, or to break
through the ranks of the females. I adopted the latter alternative, but
first fired at the nearest of the seven bulls; and then, and without a
moment’s delay, I rushed on the more open rank of the female phalanx,
uttering, at the time, loud shouts. My cries caused a momentary panic
among the animals, of which I took advantage and slipped out between
them, discharging my second barrel into the shoulder of the nearest as
I passed her. No sooner, however, had I effected my escape, than the
whole herd made a simultaneous rush at me, and trumpeted so shrilly as to
cause every man at the camp, as I learned afterward, to start out of his
sleep. Fortunately, the darkness prevented the beasts from following me;
and, the jungle being close by, I was soon in safety. In my precipitate
flight, however, I severely lacerated my feet; for, when stalking the
elephants, I had taken off my shoes, that I might the better steal upon
them.
When, after a while, I ventured out of my place of concealment, I found
every thing quiet; only one solitary elephant remained. Having approached
within a short distance, I could distinctly see him laving water on to
his sides with his trunk. I immediately suspected he belonged to the
troop of seven bulls, and was the one that I had fired at. Seating myself
right across his path, I quietly watched his proceedings. After a time
I saw him, as I thought, moving off in an opposite direction; but I was
mistaken, for in another instant his towering form loomed above me. It
was too late to get out of his way; so, quickly raising myself on one
knee, I took a steady aim at his fore leg. On receiving the ball he
uttered the most plaintive cries, and, rushing past me, soon disappeared
in the neighboring forest. The next afternoon he was discovered dead
within rifle-shot of the water. It had been a very successful night, for
a fine female elephant had also fallen to my other shot.[80]