Dispatch Cattle to the Cape.—Terrible Thunder-storm.—Trees
struck by Lightning.—The Nosop River.—A Comet.—The Author
nearly poisoned.—Some of the Men abscond; they return
to their Duty.—Babel-like confusion of Tongues.—Game
abundant.—Author shoots a Giraffe.—Meet Bushmen.—Unsuccessful
Elephant-hunt.—Sufferings from Hunger.—Tunobis.—Game
scarce.—Author and Steed entrapped.—Pitfalls.—The Men turn
sulky.—Preparations for departure from Tunobis.—Vicious
Pack-oxen.—Consequences of excessive Fatigue.—The Jackal’s
handiwork.—Tracks of Elephants.—More Pitfalls.—Loss of the
Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross.—Reach Ghanzé.
On the 1st of April I dispatched my cattle (three hundred and sixty in
number) to the Cape, in charge of old Piet and Thomas Gibbons, William,
and two or three Damaras. The first-mentioned was well accustomed to a
large drove of oxen, and was the only one of the party in whom I had
any confidence. Under such circumstances, it was perhaps natural that
I should feel some misgivings about their safe arrival. But I placed
my trust in that same Providence who had hitherto watched over the
lonely stranger, firm in the conviction that whatever befell me or my
property (both of which I was about to risk in the cause of humanity and
civilization) would be for the best.
Fearing from experience that wagons would be only an incumbrance, and
impede the dispatch, if not defeat the success of my expedition to the
Ngami, I parted with them. As I knew, however, that the road as far as
Tunobis was practicable for wheel carriages, I borrowed an old battered
vehicle for the occasion, intending to send it back with Eyebrecht.
Thence I purposed pursuing the journey with pack-and-ride oxen. This,
though the most eligible plan, subjects the traveler to much hardship
and inconvenience, from exposure to the inclemency of the weather, and
the very small stock of provisions, &c., that can be conveyed.
Up to this period the men had worked well and willingly; but the day on
which I bade farewell to the hospitable missionary roof (5th of April)
Timbo became sulky, and expressed a wish to return to the Cape, from
which I had some difficulty in persuading him. It was the first time I
had real cause for being dissatisfied with the man, but not the last.
Four days after this little difficulty was got over, it came on to rain
so tremendously that it seemed as if we were going to have another
deluge. For three days and as many nights it continued to pour down with
scarcely any intermission. The scriptural expression, “The windows of
heaven were opened,” might indeed have been here realized. During the
last twelve hours the thunder and lightning were truly appalling, and
perfectly stunned and blinded us. Peal after peal, flash after flash,
followed in rapid succession, reechoed and reflected from a hundred
peaks. Trees were broken short off or torn up by the roots by the
violence of the wind.
“The clouds,
From many a horrid rift, abortive pour’d
Fierce rain with lightning mix’d, water with fire
In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds
Within their stony caves, but rush’d abroad
From the four hinges of the world, and fell
On the vexed wilderness, whose tallest pines
(Though rooted deep as high) and sturdiest oaks
Bow’d their stiff necks, loaden with stormy blast
Or torn up sheer.”
The men’s tent, which was secured with numerous strong straps to the
side of the wagon, was earned bodily away, and men and quadrupeds were
literally swimming in the torrent, which, rushing down with irresistible
fury from the slopes of the hills, swept over our camping-ground. The
poor dogs howled from fear and suffering. Every moment I expected to see
the wagon capsized by the blast, or, what was worse, struck by lightning,
as we had somewhat incautiously encamped under a kameel-doorn boom, which
is one of the most certain of conductors. Indeed, nearly two thirds of
the full-grown trees of this kind are found splintered by the electric
fluid.
So completely did this deluge saturate and swamp the locality, that for
two days after the rains had ceased we were unable to move; yet such is
the partial operation even of such thunder-storms as we had just endured,
that, after traveling a day or two farther to the eastward, we all but
perished from thirst, and the vegetation was parched and sunburnt!
Our route lay through a country similar in character to that traveled
over by Mr. Galton and myself about a year and a half previously in our
journey to the eastward, namely, large sandy plains, richly covered with
fine grass and brushwood, with occasional clusters of kameel-thorn-trees.
Water was very scarce.
From the number of bleached bones of rhinoceroses, giraffes, and other
wild beasts scattered about, it was evident that game had at one time
been abundant in these parts; but the introduction of fire-arms among the
Namaquas had either put an end to the animals, or scared them away to
less peopled haunts. With the exception of hyænas and jackals, beasts of
any size were scarce.
In about a fortnight we reached the Nosop River, near to its junction
with the Black Nosop. The two streams, when united, flow under the common
name of Nosop; and, though nothing is known of the course of this river
three days south of Wesley Vale, it is believed ultimately to make its
way to the Orange River. Indeed, the fact of fish having been found in
the pools at Elephant Fountain of similar kind to those inhabiting the
Garieb (the Orange) River strengthens the supposition.
I had ordered Eyebrecht to meet me on the Nosop, and I found him in
company with a handsome Griqua girl, whom he had married according to
the fashion of the Namaquas. The union bade fair to be a fruitful one,
for the happy couple were already blessed with an infant. The face of
the tawny-complexioned husband was beaming with paternal pride and
satisfaction. He was living with his father-in-law (Jan Zaal), a great
hunter, with whom I also took up my quarters for a short time. The people
were exceedingly kind to me, and remarkably clean and neat in all their
household arrangements. Besides, I enjoyed an unlimited supply of sweet
and sour milk, both of which I greatly relished.
During my stay on the Nosop I observed for several nights a remarkable
comet. On the last of April, about eight o’clock in the evening, when
about to set, the latitude being 23° S., it bore 296° by compass.
Having engaged my host’s son, Klaas Zaal, to accompany me as a
wagon-driver as far as Tunobis, whence he and Eyebrecht were to return,
I was again on the move on the afternoon of the 4th of May. For a day or
two we followed the right bank of the White Nosop, and then crossed over
to the other branch, where, in order to explore the road before us, we
rested a couple of days.
Having proceeded one morning in search of game, I became very hungry,
and, observing an inviting bean-looking fruit, I ate greedily of it, but
it nearly cost me my life. I was seized with giddiness, vomiting, and
racking pains, and arrived in a staggering and bewildered state at our
camp, completely exhausted. I then learned that the pulse I had eaten
was, in a raw state, highly deleterious, but if cooked, could not alone
be eaten with impunity, but was really beneficial.
Almost from my first entrance into the country, thinking that I might
one day be obliged to live on Bushman diet, I partook eagerly of every
root, bulb, berry, &c., that grew wild about the country, but always
(with the exception of the above instance) took the precaution first to
ascertain from the natives its properties. I derived benefit from this
plan; for, when ordinary food failed me, I could at all events contrive
to exist for a time on this rude fare.
On returning one day to the camp from a fatiguing hunt, I found that all
my Damaras had absconded. I was astonished and vexed beyond measure, for
the greater part had been long in my employ, and had proved themselves
very faithful. One of them had, only the day previously, been telling me
that, unless I drove him forcibly away, he would never abandon me, but
would share my fortune, whether good or bad. I soon discovered that Timbo
had caused the defection. I had appointed him head man of the servants;
but he being dark-complexioned, the Damaras did not like to be ruled by
one so much resembling themselves.
In the first burst of anger I declared I would do without them, and
that I would punish them severely on my return. A moment’s reflection,
however, convinced me that, both for my own sake, and by way of example
for the remainder of the men, it was necessary, if possible, to bring
them back to their duty. Eyebrecht was accordingly dispatched on this
errand. After several days’ absence he returned with the runaways, and as
they looked penitent, I thought it best to pass the offense quietly over,
and say nothing.
At Twass, the head-quarters of Lambert, Amral’s eldest son—a chief of
even greater importance than his father—I was joined by Piet, the Griqua,
who was to accompany me to the Lake in the capacity of interpreter. He
knew the Bechuana language tolerably well, and, as a matter of course,
spoke Dutch fluently. Onesimus also knew a smattering of this last
tongue, and was perfect in the Damara and Namaqua. Louis was pretty
well versed in Portuguese and the different dialects of the countries
bordering upon the settlements about the Mozambique Channel. Personally,
I could make myself understood in more than one European language; and
this Babel-like confusion was completed by Timbo’s _patois_.
The preceding year, when our steps were pointed in the same direction as
at present, we traveled on the summit of the low range of hills which
take their rise near to Twass, extending eastward. We were then on
saddle-oxen; but, from what we saw of the country, we deemed it nearly
impracticable for wagons. I therefore determined to strike through
the woods at the base of the hills in question, or along the valley
intervening between them and another mountain range running in the same
direction. The soil proved exceedingly soft and yielding, and the bushes
harassing; yet this new route was preferable to the other.
We saw a good deal of game, chiefly of the larger kinds; but the animals
were wary, and I shot badly. My horse was so unsteady as to be of little
or no use. His speed was great; he was a match for the swiftest antelope;
but when I fired from his back, he was very apt to start on one side. If
his rider, at such times, was not on his guard, the chances were in favor
of his being dismounted. One day Eyebrecht begged eagerly to be allowed
to try his hand on the giraffes, which abounded in this locality. His
request was granted, and I lent him my horse, though we well knew what
would be the result. After nearly a whole day’s absence, he returned,
when the men hailed him with shouts of laughter, as his appearance too
plainly indicated his misfortunes. But, notwithstanding his flushed face
and torn and soiled dress, he stoutly denied having been thrown. It so
happened, however, that the very next day we passed a spot where he had
been chasing a herd of giraffes, and where we could distinctly see the
marks of how the scared horse had been dragging Eyebrecht along the
ground for a considerable distance.
On arriving at Elephant Kloof we had better success. My first prize
consisted of a magnificent giraffe, which dropped dead to the first
shot—the only instance I recollected of killing this animal outright
with a single bullet. I never before or since (excepting, perhaps, a
cow-elephant) saw so fat an animal. The flesh was delicious, and I
thought my men would kill themselves by gorging. Indeed, Bonfield became
seriously ill, and for a whole week was unable to take nourishment of
any description, not even coffee. Every thing he tried to swallow was
instantly rejected. At one time I became apprehensive for his safety. My
Griqua guide also got indisposed from feeding too heartily on an oily
ostrich.
From the midst of abundance we were, or rather I was, soon reduced to the
other extreme. When half way to Otjombindè we encountered some Bushmen,
who persuaded me to go in search of elephants, which they said abounded
at no great distance. A person might visit the place they frequented, and
come back the same day. Having hastily made a few arrangements, I set
out, but, foolishly relying on their statements, provided myself with
only one small slice of raw flesh, which, after a while, in the full
anticipation of a quick and successful return, I gave to the half-starved
“children of the desert.” I was sadly out of reckoning, however, for,
instead of it being merely a few hours to the water in question, we
traveled a whole day at a brisk pace before reaching our destination.
We were now at the beginning of the cold season, and the nights had
already attained a very low temperature. The day had been oppressively
hot, we had journeyed rapidly, and, in the hurry, I had come away without
my coat. As evening set in I felt a deadly chill stealing over me,
and though we found fuel, I deemed it necessary to do with as little
fire as possible, for fear of alarming the elephants, should they make
their appearance. Thrusting my head into a bush, and bundling the rest
of my body in as small a compass as was possible, I spent a long and
comfortless night.
At break of day we were stirring. On arriving at the water, which was
not far distant from our bivouac, we had the satisfaction to discover
the fresh tracks of elephants, but out of the troop that had visited the
place there was only one bull. His tracks were of course selected in
preference to the rest, but, though we followed them perseveringly till
near sunset, all our endeavors to come up with the animal proved vain.
Hungry, disheartened, and exhausted, we retraced our steps to the
bivouac, where we spent another still more cheerless night. Two days had
now elapsed without my having tasted a morsel of food, nor did I obtain
any until I reached my own people at the expiration of the third day.[70]
During the last twelve hours, I am free to confess, I was almost ravenous
enough to eat my shoe-soles, and probably might have done so had time and
opportunity permitted to boil them down to a jelly. Contrary to custom,
the field we had traversed was destitute of eatables of any sort. Once,
indeed, I observed a small antelope, but the animal only seemed to mock
our sufferings, for, before I could level my piece, he vanished. Seeing
the Bushmen try to appease their hunger with a bitter woody substance,
I could not resist the temptation to taste it, though warned of the
consequences; but scarcely had I masticated the first mouthful before I
was seized with tormenting nausea and sickness.
From our great success on a former occasion at Tunobis, I expected to
find full employment for my rifle on my arrival there. But, alas! now
that we stood so much in need of animal food, not a wild beast was to
be seen. At first, one might almost be led to imagine that the amazing
number of animals congregated here less than two years before must be
either killed or driven altogether away from the locality; but this was
not the case. Water was still to be found in the vleys and pools at some
distance, and, until these were exhausted, wild animals were little
likely to visit a spot where they were subject to constant persecution.
One or two rhinoceroses, however, occasionally visited the fountains, as
appeared by their tracks. These I determined to watch, while I dispersed
my men over the adjoining country in search of game. One night a huge
animal came waddling along, but, though I lodged a ball in its body, it
was to no purpose. The men were equally unsuccessful, and returned, after
several days’ absence, half starved, and, consequently, as ravenous as
wolves. They had encountered several rhinoceroses, zebras, &c., but they
only wounded or mangled the poor beasts. It seemed as if every gun, mine
included, had been bewitched.
Tunobis, as often stated in the preceding pages, was the farthest
easterly point which Galton and myself had attained in our journey toward
the Ngami. Every inch of the ground ahead was now unknown to Europeans at
least. The Bushmen, it is true, had furnished us with some information,
but it was either too vague to be relied upon, or not applicable to the
course I intended to pursue. Knowing nearly the position of the Lake, I
was anxious to take as straight a line as possible; but, on consulting
the few natives hereabout, they declared that, were I to do so, it would
be certain destruction to myself and cattle, inasmuch as the “field” in
that direction was one howling wilderness, totally destitute of water. By
traveling southward, however, for a few stages along the sandy and dry
water-course of Otjombindè, I should, they said, run no risk. I was quite
at a loss to know how far I could depend on their information; but Piet,
the interpreter, who had crossed the Kalahari in the beginning of the
rainy season, having corroborated their story, I no longer hesitated to
follow their advice.
Before finally quitting Tunobis, an incident occurred which bade fair to
finish my career in this world. Cantering along one day in the bed of the
River Otjombindè, with a view of ascertaining its course, I all at once
found myself on the very verge of a pitfall! but it was too late, for at
the moment I was about to rein in my horse, down we both went together,
with a fearful crash, through the light net-work of sticks and grass that
covered it, to the bottom of the gulf, which could not have been less
than ten feet in depth, though happily without either of us breaking our
necks.
This pitfall was specially intended for the giraffe, which abounded
hereabout, and was very different in construction from those in use for
elephants, rhinoceroses, and other large animals; for, instead of a
single cavity, it was divided into two compartments, separated from each
other by a wall of earth. Though I never before knew the meaning of this
peculiar arrangement, it was soon explained. My horse, having recovered
somewhat from his surprise and the stunning effects of the fall, plunged
violently forward, and endeavored to leap the wall in question; but he
only got his fore quarters over it, and the depth of the hole preventing
him from touching the ground either with his fore or hind feet, his whole
weight rested on his belly, and thus suspended between earth and heaven,
he became totally helpless.
Seeing that the poor animal could not possibly live long in this
position, and that I was too far from camp to return for assistance, I
unhesitatingly sprang back into the pit from which I had just extricated
myself, and placing my shoulders under his chest (my feet resting against
the side of the pit to give me a better leverage), I exerted all my
strength, and succeeded in pushing him back into the compartment in which
he had been originally deposited. Finding that he was about to renew the
plunge, I seized the bridle with my left hand and held his head forcibly
down, while with my right hand, and by the aid of a stick that I picked
up, I scraped away the soil on one side of the pit so that it became
in a degree an inclined plane; with my feet I also so far leveled the
wall that it formed a kind of platform. This matter being arranged, I
laid myself on my back on the edge of the pit and pulled stoutly at the
bridle. The horse understood me, for with a violent jerk of his body he
sprang on to the platform, and next to the inclined plane, where for a
moment he nearly lost his equilibrium, but at last successfully cleared
the abyss.
[Illustration: PITFALLS.]
The poor brute was so sensible of the danger he had escaped that, on
finding himself on firm ground, he uttered a wild, half-suppressed
neighing, or rather scream, and continued to tremble violently for
several minutes. On examining him, I found he had sustained no farther
injury than the loss of a few inches of skin and a quantity of hair.
As for myself, I escaped with a violent twist of the neck, which
inconvenienced me slightly for a few days.
Almost all the tribes of Southern Africa avail themselves of pitfalls
(often on a most gigantic scale) for the capture of game. These traps,
or rather these lines of pitfalls, are either constructed in the shape
of very obtuse triangles, open at the base and gradually tapering to a
point, where a single, double, or treble row of pits are dug, into which
the game is driven by shouts or yells, or they are formed in the shape of
a crescent—often miles in extent—usually shutting out a valley or defile,
with pits at every fifty or a hundred paces apart, artfully concealed
with grass, sand, &c., the intervening spaces being planted and filled
up with stout palisades, closely interwoven with boughs and branches of
thorn-trees.
The Hill-Damaras are remarkable for the perseverance and industry they
exhibit in the construction of game-pits. From want of proper tools, the
trees have first to be burnt down and then carried on men’s shoulders to
their destination, and when we add to this that the task is frequently
executed in the most arid districts—the haunts of the gemsbok, the eland,
the koodoo, and other tenants of the wilds, who are capable of existing
more or less without water for long periods—it is easy to imagine the
labor and fatigue of the process.
On counting over the different articles of my baggage, I found that at
least nine or ten oxen would be required to carry them, in addition to
those necessary for myself and men to ride upon. Almost all my cattle
were young, and only half broken-in, and there was scarcely time for
further training. To save all trouble, I felt inclined to push on with
the old wagon; but, for more than one reason, the idea was quickly
abandoned. I worked night and day, but was much harassed. Through
carelessness, the hyænas were allowed to devour the skins intended for
pack “riems” and divers minor articles. The men were lazy, stubborn,
and ill-humored, and I was kept constantly on the rack by their
annoyances. One day I was obliged to resort to the very unusual measure
of flogging Onesimus, who by this time thought himself too civilized to
need correction. Indeed, they were all more or less of this opinion, and
wanted their dismissal. Having always been kind and considerate toward
my men—too much so, perhaps—I felt disgusted at their ingratitude, and
exclaimed, rather passionately, “Yes; go, cowards! go and tell your
friends that you have left your master in the desert to the mercy of wild
beasts and savage men; go and exult. Your conduct shall not prevent me
from persevering in my plans.” On more mature consideration, however,
they thought better of it, and again returned to their duty with a good
will.
After many delays and the most strenuous exertions, every thing was at
length in readiness for a start. Before setting off, I wrote to some of
my friends at the Cape, and also a letter or two to Europe, intrusting
them to Eyebrecht, who returned forthwith to Walfisch Bay.
At noon of the 14th of June we assembled our oxen and began to pack;
but, though we labored till our heads turned giddy and our arms were
paralyzed, we made but slow progress. No sooner had we finished arranging
the burden of one ox than another threw off his pack. It is utterly
impossible for those who have never had ocular demonstration of this kind
of work with half-wild cattle to understand the difficulty, and imagine
the ludicrous scenes that take place. I have already given a faint sketch
of the process of training oxen, from which the reader may glean some
notion of the obstacles to be surmounted, bearing in mind, at the same
time, that instead of a single ox we had ten to load, besides those on
which we were mounted, and which were not the most manageable.
At last we were off; but the day was then so far advanced that we were
unable to accomplish more than seven or eight miles before we found it
necessary to make a halt and bivouac for the night. We were so thoroughly
knocked up with the severe labor of the day, that after having hastily
removed the packs from the vicious beasts, we literally dropped to sleep
where we stood, not one of the party giving a thought as to food, fire,
water, or covering, of each and all of which we stood greatly in need.
On returning to consciousness the following morning, the first object
that met my half-sleepy gaze was a jackal, busily engaged examining
our baggage. Having no gun within reach, I threw a handful of sand at
the impudent fellow, on which he saluted me with a mocking laugh, and
slowly retreated. But had I then been aware of the full extent of his
mischievous propensities, he should certainly not have escaped so easy.
The brute had, indeed, devoured one of the “riems” with which we secured
the packs on the oxen. Nothing could possibly have been more unfortunate;
the thong was, at that time, worth its weight in gold. We had ten oxen to
pack, and only nine “riems!” Here, then, was a fine opportunity for a man
to exert his ingenuity. It was totally out of the question to divide any
of the remaining straps, for they were short and narrow enough already,
and they must be of a certain length and solidity in order to serve
the purpose effectually. At length, however, and after much searching,
patching, and splicing, a very indifferent substitute was produced, and
we were again _en route_, though not before I had, for the fiftieth time,
vowed dire vengeance against the whole race of jackals.
This day (May 15th) we proceeded alternately in the bed and on the
borders of the Otjombindè River. The soil consisted of fine white
sand, reflecting a light dazzling and painful to the eyes, while it
was soft and yielding to the feet. The grass was still green and
very plentiful, and the vegetation, in general, was rank. We passed
several vleys containing small quantities of muddy water, alive with
loathsome reptiles; and, in some places, the wallowing of elephants
and rhinoceroses had converted it into a substance not unlike a mass of
well-kneaded dough, heaving with insect life, and tinted and variegated
by the stains of larger animals. Yet we drank, or rather gulped it with
avidity!
We encountered also a vast number of “sand-wells,” varying from one to
three fathoms in depth, with an average diameter at the top of twenty
feet. The construction of these pits indicated great perseverance and
skill, and had evidently been formed by a pastoral people possessed of
large herds of cattle. No European would have ever dreamed of looking
for water in such localities, since it usually lay ten feet below
the surface of the ground, which gave no indication whatever of its
presence. Not having been used or kept in repair for many a long year,
several were partially filled with sand, but the greater portions were
still in tolerable order. They contained no standing water, but plenty
of moisture; and, by inserting a reed—the plan adopted by the Bushmen
when the liquid will not flow—enough to quench a person’s thirst was
generally obtained. Elephants had been at work in many, but were clearly
disappointed.
About sunset we came to a large vley where a troop of elephants had
evidently only a short time previously been enjoying themselves. This
circumstance put my men on the _qui vive_; and my Griqua interpreter,
who was one of the most chicken-hearted of beings, took good care to
magnify the danger of encountering these animals at night. He declared
that it was absolutely necessary to come to a halt; but this did not suit
my purpose at all. I assured my men that elephants, if left unmolested,
were very timid and civil beasts, and that, no doubt, if we met them and
only gave them room to pass, they would in all probability treat us with
equal courtesy. This having in some degree quieted their apprehensions,
we proceeded till about nine o’clock, when we unloaded the tired oxen and
camped for the night. As for ourselves, though much fatigued, we took
the precaution to provide security from all skulking night-prowlers. By
a roaring fire, and over a hearty supper, we forgot the miseries of the
day, and, in the firm anticipation of success, cheerfully resigned our
weary limbs to sleep.
At an early hour the next morning we were on the move. The air being
cool, we proceeded briskly. About noon some Bushmen were observed digging
roots; but they only allowed us to approach within shouting distance. We
managed, however, to hold some little conversation with them, and learned
that water was not far off. They warned us to proceed with caution, as
the whole river-bed in advance was undermined with pitfalls. And true
enough; for, before being aware of it, we found ourselves entrapped
in a maze of yawning chasms, down some of which bipeds and quadrupeds
went together in the most amicable confusion. However, being partially
prepared for the event, and traveling at a slow pace, we escaped with
a few bruises. To prevent a recurrence of the mischief, a man or two
proceeded in advance, and unmasked the remainder. They were constructed
on the same principle as the one into which I had a short time previously
been so unceremoniously precipitated.
At two o’clock P.M. we came to a halt by a well of clear, good water.
Within gun-shot of this place was a “salt-lick,” much frequented by wild
animals, such as rhinoceroses, giraffes, gemsboks, koodoos, elands,
gnoos, &c.; but I preferred to devote the ensuing night to rest and
astronomical observations rather than lying in ambush for game.
At an after period I had some good sport in this locality, as also some
spirited chases after elands. But space prevents me from entering into
details.
The Otjombindè, without materially taking us out of our direct route,
had thus far befriended us; but, if I wished to reach the Lake, it was
now out of the question any longer to follow this river, as hence it
pursued too southerly a course. According to the advice of the Bushmen,
therefore, we now left it to the right, and struck out in a northerly
direction through an intensely dense “Wacht-een-bigte” (thorn-jungle).
After a few hours’ travel, “we packed-off” to the eastward of some
dilapidated limestone pits; but, though they contained water, from the
depth of the cavities, and the difficulty of access to them, it occupied
the men several hours to supply the wants of our small herd of cattle.
The next stage—a short one—we slept without water.
In the course of the following day’s march we had traversed dense brakes
which annoyed us excessively, for the thorns not only tore our flesh and
clothes, but subtracted several articles of value from the pack-saddles.
Among other losses, I had to bewail that of two magnificent flags—the
British and the Swedish—which had been expressly made for and presented
to me by my friend, Mr. Letterstedt, the Swedish consul-general at the
Cape, and which I hoped to have unfurled on the shores of the far-famed
Ngami. All my efforts to recover these valued standards proved fruitless,
some hyænas having probably swallowed the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the
Swedish Cross.
At dusk, after having been ten hours in the saddle, we reached a famous
place called Ghanzé, where we pitched our camp.