CHAPTER XXVI.

Great Namaqua-land.—Its Boundaries and Extent.—Its

Rivers.—Nature of the Country.—Vegetation and

Climate.—Geological Structure.—Minerals.—“Topnaars” and

“Oerlams.”—Houses.—Mythology and Religion.—Tumuli.—Wonderful

Rock.—Curious Legend of the Hare.—Coming of Age.—The

Witch-doctor.—Amulets.—Superstitions.—A Namaqua’s notion

of the Sun.—Marriage.—Polygamy.—Children.—Barbarous

Practice.—Longevity.—Singular

Customs.—Ornaments.—Tattooing.—Arms.—Idle Habits.—Fond of

Amusements.—Music and Dancing.—Spirits.—Mead.—Domestic Animals.

Having now brought my narrative to a period when I am about to leave

Great Namaqua-land, it may be well to say a few words of this country,

its inhabitants, their manners and customs, &c.

The portion of Africa known as Namaqua-land is divided into two distinct

parts, viz., Little and Great Namaqua-land. By the former is understood

the territory (now British) between the Orange River and about the 31st

degree of latitude on the south; by the latter, the country between the

last-named river and Damara-land, its eastern boundary being the Kalahari

desert, while on the west it is washed by the billows of the Atlantic

Ocean.

Great Namaqua-land covers a surface of no less than one hundred and

twelve thousand geographical square miles,[63] with probably a population

of scarcely thirty thousand souls, or less than four persons to the

square mile. Excepting the great Sahara itself, there is, perhaps, not a

country in the world, of equal extent, so scantily peopled, so destitute

of water, so dismal, and so generally barren and useless. It is truly a

“region of curses.”

The coast-line of Great Namaqua-land, like that of Damara-land, consists

of a dreary sandy waste, extending in places from thirty to forty miles

into the interior—in others to a hundred or more—and is, with very few

exceptions, uninhabitable.

Some of the rivers, such as the Kuisip, and others of little importance,

empty themselves into the Atlantic; but the larger portion run in an

easterly direction, and are chiefly tributaries to the Fish River. This

remarkable water-course, which takes its rise in the most northerly limit

of Great Namaqua-land, finally joins the Orange River about three or four

days’ journey from where the latter finds an outlet into the sea, thus

intersecting the country throughout its entire length.

Great Namaqua-land is characterized by immense sandy plains, traversed

by hill and rock, and thickly strewn with quartz, which reflects a

dazzling and perplexing light. Two to three days’ journey south of

Rehoboth, the dense thorny bush, so peculiar to Damara-land, ceases,

and with the exception of a few mimosas along the water-courses, and

occasional ebony-trees, the arboreous vegetation is scanty and stunted.

For more than six months of the year it is scorched by an almost vertical

sun. The rains, which are always accompanied by heavy thunder, are

periodical and very partial. In its northern portion, the wet season sets

in at the same time as in Damara-land; but in a southerly direction, the

rains are later and more uncertain; and, as has been said in the last

chapter, little or none falls about the lower course of the Orange River

and the neighborhood. The springs (which are often either hot or salt)

are indifferent and scantily distributed. The periodical water-courses,

therefore, afford the chief supply.

The Namaquas, as well as the Damaras, are loud in their complaints that

less rain falls now than half a century back. Indeed, the numerous

ancient beds of rivers in the vast sandy plains, and the deeply-scored

slopes and sides of the now “sunburnt” and crumbling hills, clearly

indicate that almost the whole country north of the Orange River, as

far as Europeans have penetrated from the Cape side, has at some former

period been much more abundantly watered. In some parts, the destruction

of forests, which are well known to retain and condense vapory particles,

may partly account for such atmospheric changes; but in this region we

must look for other causes.

In a geological point of view, Great Namaqua-land presents many

interesting features. Between the Orange River and Walfisch Bay,

beginning at the sea-side, three distinct terrace-like risings of the

country are recognized. Besides the granite, which is the prevailing

rock, great masses of quartz are met with either, as aforesaid, scattered

over its surface, or filling up the large gaps and fissures occasioned

by ancient eruptions. Iron and sandstone, and slate formations, are also

not uncommon.

At some remote period this land must have been subjected to volcanic

agencies; and though not one of these has taken place in the memory of

the present generation, rumbling noises underground and tremors of the

earth are of frequent occurrence. The existence of hot water springs;

the confusion of the fantastically and curiously-shaped hills—“the

strata bending and dipping from the perpendicular to the horizontal, and

in others extending in a straight line from one hill to another”—bear

ample testimony to its volcanic nature. The presence, moreover, of vast

quantities of minerals is a further evidence of its igneous character.

Tin, lead, iron, and copper ore is often met with. I have had specimens

of the latter mineral in my possession containing from forty to ninety

per cent. of pure metal. At eight to ten days’ journey with “ox wagon,”

east of the missionary station, Bethany, meteoric iron is found in

apparently inexhaustible quantities. I have seen lumps, of several

hundred weights, brought from thence, so pure and malleable that the

natives converted it into balls for their guns, &c., without any previous

application of fire. As Great Namaqua-land becomes better known, it is

more than probable that it will be found equally prolific in minerals—if

not more so—as Little Namaqua-land, where, of late, extensive and

valuable mines have been brought to light.

The term Hottentot and Namaqua have probably originated with Europeans,

since neither is found in the native language. The Hottentots of these

regions may be divided into two great branches, viz., the “Topnaars” and

the “Oerlams.” With the latter is generally understood the newcomers

and the semi-civilized; but the real signification of the term is

doubtful. Some conjecture the “Oerlam” to be a corruption of the Dutch

word “o’erland,” or overland—that is, people who have come over land.

Be this as it may, the Namaqua-Hottentots consider it as a compliment to

be addressed as “Oerlam.” “Topnaar,” on the other hand, signifies the

First, the Highest, the Great, or those who originally inhabited Great

Namaqua-land, and they view with considerable jealousy the progress and

superiority of the “Oerlams,” whom they justly consider as intruders.

The northern Namaquas are divided into numerous tribes, each under petty

chiefs. The principal of these are Jonker Afrikaner, Cornelius, Amral,

Zwartbooi, Jan Boois, William Fransman, Paul Goliath, David Christian,

and Bondel Zwartz.

The Namaquas dwell in small round huts, made on the same principle as

those of the Damaras, and covered with mats composed of rushes, which

are prepared in the following manner: A quantity of the inner bark of

the mimosa is collected and dried. When wanted for immediate use, the

required portion is put into hot water and softened. Each member of

the family then fills his mouth with as much of the fibre as it can

hold, and chews it until it becomes quite pliable, when it is at once

converted into strings by the rude process of twisting it on the naked

leg. A large quantity is in this manner manufactured in an incredibly

short time. The rushes are then cut to the desired length, and laid out

on the ground singly, and in a row, when holes are made, at intervals of

about two inches, through each rush, and the string in question passed

through them by means of a bone or thorn needle. The ends of the rushes,

however, are secured more strongly by back-stitches. These mats serve a

double purpose. In warm weather they are open and airy, while, being of a

porous texture, a shower closes them, and after a while they become proof

against the most deluging rains.

When they remove their habitations, these mattings and the frame-work

of the hut, which consists of semicircular boughs, are packed on oxen.

Their household utensils, such as calabashes, milk-pails, pots, &c., are

suspended to the boughs, and in the midst of all this confusion is often

seated the good dame of the house, surrounded by her promising offspring.

It has been asserted by travelers and others that the Namaquas have

not the slightest idea of a Superior Being, or of a life hereafter.

Yet they believe in Heitjeebib, or Heitjekobib, whom they consider to

have the power to grant or withhold them success and prosperity. But

whether Heitjeebib is a deity, a goblin, or merely a deified ancestor,

I shall not presume to say. At all events, they affirm he exists in

the graves of all deceased people; and whenever a Hottentot passes a

burial-place, he invariably throws a stone, a bush, or other token of

offering and affection on the tomb, pronouncing the name of Heitjeebib,

and invoking his blessing and protection in his undertakings. From being

thus constantly added to, these heaps often attain a great size. They are

found throughout the country (I have observed them even in Damara-land),

and frequently in situations perfectly “stoneless,” from which may be

inferred that the natives carry the materials a long distance. Captain

Harris mentions having seen similar heaps among the Matabili, but was

unable to account for their presence. The Hottentots have an indistinct

notion that they came from an easterly direction, and it is possible that

the stone tumuli found by the traveler may have something to do with this

tradition.

The natives in these parts have a strange tale of a rock in which the

tracks of all the different animals indigenous to the country are

distinctly visible; moreover, that man and beast lived here together in

great amity; but one day, from some unknown cause, their Deity appeared

unexpectedly and dispersed them. I never had the good fortune to obtain a

sight of this marvelous rock. Mr. Moffat, who makes mention of a similar

story prevailing among the Bechuanas, was equally unsuccessful. “Once

I heard a man of influence,” says the reverend gentleman, “telling his

story on the subject. I, of course, could not say that I believed the

wondrous tale, but very mildly hinted that he might be misinformed, on

which he swore, by his ancestors and his king, that he had visited the

spot, and paid a tax to see the wonder; and that, consequently, his

testimony was indubitable.”

The Namaquas have the following singular superstition with regard to the

hare, which no adult is allowed to eat. The legend involves the sublime

Christian doctrine of immortality.

Once upon a time the moon called the hare, and commanded him to convey

to man the following message: “As I die and am born again,[64] so you

shall die and be again alive.” The hare hastened to obey; but instead of

saying, “As I die and am born again,” he said, “As I die and am _not_

born again.” On his return, the moon inquired what words he had conveyed

to mankind; and on being informed, the luminary exclaimed, “What! have

you said to man, ‘As I die and am _not_ born again, so you shall die and

not be again alive!’” And with this he hurled a stick at the hare with

such force as to split open his lips, which is the cause of the peculiar

formation of this animal’s mouth. The hare quickly betook himself to

flight, and is said to be flying to the present day. The old Namaquas

used to say, “We are still enraged with the hare, because he has brought

such a bad message, and we will not eat him.”

On the occasion of a youth coming of age, or, rather, when becoming a

“man,” there is great rejoicing. From that day forward he is forbidden

to eat the hare, or even to come in contact with the fire where this

animal has been prepared. Should he transgress this command, he is not

unfrequently banished from his werft, though, on paying a fine, he may

again be admitted to the community. He is, moreover, no longer permitted

to “suck the goats.”[65]

The Namaquas, like almost all nations who are sunk in barbarism, have

great faith in sorcery, and male and female witch-doctors equally play

conspicuous parts. These impostors are supposed to have the power to

procure rain, to restore the sick to health, to discover the cause of a

person’s death, and to perform other miracles. They are crafty creatures,

and know how to take advantage of the popular ignorance. Even civilized

men have been deceived by their wiles. Their principal stipulation before

they exercise any of their arts is to have some animal slaughtered,

which they prescribe according to their fancy and to the wealth of their

patients. Mr. Moffat tells us that a stout ox might be a cure for a

slight cold in a chieftain, while a kid would be a remedy for a fever

among the poor, from whom there could be no chance of obtaining any thing

greater.

The Namaqua witch-doctor is called _kaiaob_, or _kaiaobs_ if a woman.

On being called to the sick-bed, after having examined the patient, he

or she generally declares that the ailment is caused by a great snake

(toros) having fired an arrow into the stomach. The sorcerer operates by

feeling this part of the body, and by a good squeezing endeavors to coax

the illness away. Another approved plan is to make a small incision on

the body about the place where the cause of the disease is supposed to

lurk, and to suck it out. The production of a snake, a frog, an insect,

or the like, is frequently the result. Eyebrecht solemnly declared that

he once was an eye-witness to such an operation on a woman at Jonker’s

place. When the witch-doctor arrived, a sheep was killed, and the sinews

of the back were cut out and rolled up into a small ball, which the

patient was made to swallow, the remainder of the animal, of course,

being appropriated to the sorcerer’s own stomach. A few days afterward

the wizard returned, and cut some small holes in the abdomen of the

patient, on which a small snake escaped, then a lizard, numerous other

animals following.

To become a witch-doctor of any importance, a person is required to be

instructed by one previously well versed in the mysteries of the black

art. He must begin his lessons by swallowing animal poison, be bitten

by venomous reptiles, or have poison inoculated into his body. A cap, a

handkerchief, or any sort of clothing worn by such a person until it has

become perfectly saturated with filth is considered the most infallible

cure for all kinds of diseases, poisonous bites, &c. On emergences a

corner of this treasure is washed, and the dirty water thus produced is

given to the patient, beast or man, to drink. The chief Amral assured

me that he possessed a cap of this kind with which he had effected

innumerable cures. “It is sure,” he said, “to cause relief when nothing

else is of any avail.” The witch-doctors have also other disgusting

methods of effecting cures.

Like most of the tribes in Southern Africa, the Namaquas have great faith

in amulets, which consist, as usual, of the teeth and claws of lions,

hyænas, and other wild beasts, pieces of wood, bone, dried flesh and fat,

roots of plants, &c.

When a chief died, it was formerly customary to call the whole tribe

together, and to give a grand feast in honor of the occasion. The fat,

and all the choice parts of the slaughtered animals, were preserved

for the son of the deceased, who was to succeed his father in the

chieftainship.[66] The raw fat was placed on his head, and worn until

it became dry, when it was transferred to some crone, who carefully

preserved it as a much-prized amulet.

During his journeyings in Great Namaqua-land, Sir James Alexander was

told by the natives that the Bushwomen have it in their power to change

their forms into lions, hyænas, and other beasts of prey. The following

legend illustrates this superstition:

“Once on a time, a certain Namaqua was traveling in company with a

Bushwoman carrying a child on her back. They had proceeded some distance

on their journey, when a troop of wild horses (zebras) appeared, and the

man said to the woman, ‘I am hungry; and as I know you can turn yourself

into a lion, do so now, and catch us a wild horse, that we may eat.’

“The woman answered, ‘You’ll be afraid.’

“‘No, no,’ said the man. ‘I am afraid of dying of hunger, but not of you.’

“While he was speaking, hair began to appear at the back of the woman’s

neck, her nails assumed the appearance of claws, and her features

altered. She set down the child.

“The man, alarmed at the change, climbed a tree close by, while the woman

glared at him fearfully; and, going to one side, she threw off her skin

petticoat, when a perfect lion rushed out into the plain. It bounded and

crept among the bushes toward the wild horses; and, springing on one of

them, it fell, and the lion lapped its blood. The lion then came back to

where the child was crying, and the man called from the tree, ‘Enough!

enough! Don’t hurt me. Put off your lion’s shape. I’ll never ask to see

this again.’

“The lion looked at him and growled. ‘I’ll remain here till I die,’

exclaimed the man, ‘if you don’t become a woman again.’ The mane and

tail began to disappear, the lion went toward the bush where the skin

petticoat lay: it was slipped on, and the woman, in her proper shape,

took up the child. The man descended, partook of the horse’s flesh, but

never again asked the woman to catch game for him.”

On the death of a person, some of his cattle (the richer the deceased,

the more numerous the animals) are killed, and a banquet is given to his

relations and friends. On these occasions the poor beasts are suffocated.

Ordinarily, and when intended for food alone, animals are dispatched by

some sharp-cutting instrument. The flesh, never eaten raw, and not often

when roasted, is usually served up when boiled.

The ideas of a Namaqua as to the formation and rotary motion of the

heavenly bodies, if not very profound, are unquestionably very original.

“The sun, by some of the people of this benighted land,” says an

enterprising traveler, “is considered to be a mass of fat, which descends

nightly to the sea, where it is laid hold of by the chief of a white

man’s ship, who cuts away a portion of tallow, and, giving the rest a

kick, it bounds away, sinks under the wave, goes round below, and then

comes up again in the east.”

When a man feels a desire to enter the matrimonial state, he goes to the

father of the woman on whom he has settled his affection, and demands her

in marriage. If the parent be favorable to the match, the affair may be

considered as settled. An ox or a cow is then killed outside the door of

the bride’s home, and the ceremony is over.

Polygamy is practiced without limitation. If a man become tired of his

wife, he unceremoniously returns her to the parental roof, and however

much she (or the parents) may object to so summary a proceeding, there is

no remedy.

Widows are left to shift for themselves.

They neither cradle nor circumcise their children, which they are said

to name in the following singular manner. No man nor woman has more than

one name, which is retained even after marriage. If a daughter be born,

she assumes the name of her father, while a boy would be called after his

mother, with very little alteration. I never could understand the reason

of this.

Within the memory of the present generation, a barbarous practice

prevailed of leaving old and disabled people to perish far away from the

dwellings of men. A slight fence was raised round the “living-dead,” and

a small supply of water was placed at his side, when he was abandoned to

his fate. Mr. Moffat, during his wanderings in Namaqua-land, saw one of

these wretches (a woman), and on inquiring the cause of her being thus

deserted, she replied, “I am old, you see, and no longer able to serve

them (referring to her grown-up children). When they kill game, I am too

feeble to help in carrying home the flesh; I am incapable of gathering

wood to make fire; and I can not carry their children on my back, as I

used to do.”

The Namaquas may be said to be long-lived, for individuals have been

known to reach the advanced age of ninety, and even one hundred years.

This is the more remarkable, when the very wretched life they lead is

taken into consideration.

The Namaquas have a singular custom both among themselves and with

regard to strangers, which consists in the _adoption_ of a “father”

and a “mother.” This practice is so widely observed, that few who come

in contact with the several tribes are able to avoid it. Almost every

European trader, indeed, possesses in each village which he is in the

habit of frequenting either a so-called “father” or “mother.” But the

custom is a most inconvenient one, to the traveler at least, for he may

be pretty sure that, as soon as this near degree of consanguinity is

established between himself and a Namaqua, he will be asked for a horse

or an ox, or it may be for the very coat upon his back, which, as in duty

bound, he is expected to hand over to “papa” or “mamma,” as the case

may be. The poor son, it is true, has also the privilege of demanding

any thing that may captivate his fancy; but since a native is usually

more forward and importunate than a European, the bargain, as a rule, is

generally a losing one to the latter.

When two Namaquas are talking together, and one is relating a story, the

listener repeats the last words of the speaker, even if he should know

as much of the matter as his informant. For instance: if a man begin his

recital by saying, “As I walked along the river, a very large rhinoceros

rushed suddenly upon me.” “Rushed suddenly upon me,” echoes the auditor.

“He was very fat.” “Very fat,” the other ejaculates, and so forth.

The Namaquas are fond of ornamenting their persons profusely with brass,

iron, and copper, but more especially with small beads of various colors.

A kind of black, dull bead, manufactured by themselves, is particularly

esteemed. A quantity of resin is procured, which they melt and mix with

powdered charcoal, and, during the process of cooling, it is diligently

kneaded, until, being converted to the consistency of gum, it is drawn

out into long, narrow bars. Again it is gently heated over a slow fire,

when small bits are detached and worked between the fingers till they

assume the desired shape. Their patterns of bead-work are by no means

devoid of taste.

These people tattoo themselves, and also anoint and besprinkle their

bodies with a profusion of grease and powders. The latter are of several

kinds, and are chiefly obtained from the leaves of plants of the _croton_

and _diosma_ families. These powders are called “buku” by the Namaquas,

and are much esteemed, more especially the kind procured south of the

Orange River, which has a very agreeable and aromatic scent.

The sole arms of the Namaquas of the present day are guns. Their original

weapons, which consisted of the bow and arrow, the assegai, and an

immense shield (made out of an entire, single-folded ox-hide), are now

rarely seen.

The Namaquas are an excessively idle race. They may be seen basking in

the sun for days together in listless inactivity, frequently almost

perishing from thirst or hunger, when, with very little exertion, they

may have it in their power to satisfy the cravings of nature. If urged

to work, they have been heard to say, “Why should we resemble the worms

of the ground?” A few may occasionally be seen employing themselves in

making neat little camp-stools and in repairing guns, for which they have

a certain aptitude. Jonker Afrikaner—be it said to his honor—is by far

the most industrious Hottentot that I have yet seen.

They are excessively fond of diversions, more especially music and

dancing. They do not, however, distinguish themselves by grace in their

movements, nor do they even possess that dexterity and flexibility of

limb that the Ovambo ladies—at the expense of our peace of mind—exhibited

at King Nangoro’s _court ball_.

They understand and practice the art of distilling spirits. When a

certain kind of berry, of a sweet and agreeable taste, is ripe, large

quantities are collected and put into a skin bag to ferment. On being

sufficiently advanced, they are deposited in a large pot and boiled,

and the steam drawn off into another vessel joined to it by an old

gun-barrel. The liquor is then allowed to settle for a few days,

and becomes so strong and intoxicating that a small glass or two is

sufficient to upset any man’s reason not previously accustomed to it. I

have seen the natives become perfectly maddened by its effect.

They also make a kind of mead (a favorite drink with the ancient

Northmen), which is a pleasant and refreshing beverage, and, unless

partaken of to excess, is comparatively harmless.

The domestic animals of the country are the cow, the sheep, the goat,

and the dog. The sheep is highly prized by them, so much so that at one

time (before the introduction of tobacco) it was more thought of than

any thing else—even than women! The original breed of Namaqua cattle is

nearly extinct. The southern tribes still possess it, though more or less

mixed with that of the colony and Damara-land. In shape and size the

Namaqua cattle approach nearer the European breed than to that indigenous

to the countries north of them. They are of moderate size, very compact,

and have short but stout horns (usually curved inward), with rather large

hoofs.

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