The River Cunenè.—The Travelers are Prisoners at large.—Kingly
Revenge.—Kingly Liberality.—Depart from Ondonga.—Sufferings and
Consequences resulting from Cold.—Return to Okamabuti.—Damara
Women murdered by Bushmen.—Preparations for Journey.—Obtain
Guides.—Depart from Tjopopa’s Werft.—Game abundant.—Author
and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company.—Extraordinary
Visitation.—The Rhinoceros’s Guardian Angel.—The Textor
Erythrorhynchus.—The Amadina Squamifrons; singular Construction
of its Nest.—Return to Barmen.
Many years previously to our visit to the Ovambo, a French frigate
discovered the embouchure of a magnificent river known as Cunenè, between
the seventeenth and eighteenth degrees of south latitude. Other vessels
were sent out to explore it, and to ascertain its course, &c., but,
strange to say, they searched for it in vain![29]
The discoverers could not, however, have been mistaken; and as we now
approached the latitudes in question, we made inquiries, and soon found
that only four days’ travel north of Ondonga there existed a river of
great size, which we doubted not was identical with Cunenè; and farther
inquiry fully corroborated this supposition. A runaway slave from
Benguela, who was living at the time among the Ovambo, informed us that
in its upper course (or rather another branch) this river is called
Mukuru Mukovanja, but that in its lower course it is designated Cunenè.
Moreover, that, though of very considerable size, and containing a large
volume of water, it does not always find its way directly into the sea.
He declared the cause of this to be the formation of sand-banks at its
mouth, which compels it to take a subterraneous course. Occasionally,
however, it breaks through these barriers. This was exceedingly
interesting, inasmuch as it explained the cause of its mysterious
disappearance.
The Ovambo themselves gave us to understand that they often extended
their trading excursions to the Cunenè, and even crossed it by means of
canoes. The people dwelling on its south bank were called Ovapangari (a
few of whom we saw in Ondonga) and Ovabundya. The latter were represented
as living among “many waters,” which we conjectured meant the confluence
of some of the branches.
Our curiosity to see the Cunenè was greatly aroused, though, in order
to accomplish this object, it would be necessary to overcome many
difficulties. Pleasant as our arrival and stay at Ondonga had generally
been, it was in some respects attended with much inconvenience. The
freedom we had enjoyed to such perfection among the Damaras ceased with
our entrance into Ovambo-land. We could hardly stir half a mile from our
camp without having first obtained the permission of our despotic friend,
and much less could we think of returning or proceeding. We had left
half our party behind us in a savage and inhospitable country without a
sufficiency of provisions. Our own stores were very deficient in animal
food. No pasturage was left in Ondonga but corn-stubble, or rather
corn-stalks; and of this, as well as of water, the inhabitants were
extremely tenacious. The consequence was that the poor cattle daily fell
off in condition. We were already two long weeks’ journey distant from
our camp at Okamabuti, and to undertake an excursion to the Cunenè, and
return, would occupy fully another fortnight, making thus, at the very
least, a whole month’s actual travel. This, we feared, was more than our
emaciated cattle were equal to. Yet, notwithstanding all these formidable
difficulties, the enterprise was of such great importance that we
determined not to give it up without a struggle. Unless we could obtain
the consent and assistance of Nangoro, we were aware that all our efforts
would be unavailing. Accordingly, we informed him of our plans, with a
request that he would provide us with guides. But he sulkily replied
that, as we did not choose to kill elephants for him, he could not oblige
us in this matter! Under any circumstances such ungenerous conduct would
have been highly vexatious; but, in our situation, we could only submit,
and hope it was all for the best, and that which his majesty intended an
act of revenge might in the end be the means of saving ourselves.
Thus frustrated in our plans, and having seen and ascertained every
thing we could in the country, we at once determined to retrace our
steps. However, after what had just fallen from the lips of the chief,
it was not without some misgivings that we waited to know his wishes
and intentions with regard to our departure. But there was no cause for
anxiety. Having squeezed every thing out of us that would have been of
any use to him, he was evidently but too well pleased to see us leave his
territory, which would relieve him from the necessity of making us any
presents. During our stay in Ondonga, all that this royal miser gave us
was a small basket of flour; though, on our finally leaving his dominion,
he ordered one of his “bread-eaters,” who accompanied us as guide to the
frontier, to levy a tribute of corn on his subjects for our behoof; but
this largess, at the expense of others, came too late, as we had already
laid in a sufficient stock of the staff of life, which we had obtained
from the natives by barter.
The 13th of June was fixed for our departure. We were not, however, able
to get away till two days later. On the 18th we were fairly out of sight
of the fertile plains of Ondonga. Nangoro had originally promised to send
our old friend Chikor’onkombè back with us; but the fellow abruptly and
treacherously deserted us. This proved of great inconvenience; and it
was only by exerting all our ingenuity that we ultimately succeeded in
finding our way home. As has been already said, there were no landmarks
by which we could steer.
The nights had now become bitterly cold. In crossing the
Otjihako-tja-Muteya we were obliged to bivouac on this bleak and exposed
plain without a particle of fuel. What with the piercing wind and low
temperature, it was one of the most trying nights I remember to have
spent in Africa. Indeed, I hardly ever felt the cold more during the
most severe Scandinavian winter. Even the cattle were so exceedingly
distressed that several of our best draft-oxen never thoroughly
recovered. Our poor Damaras suffered fearfully; and it was only by
huddling themselves together at the bottom of a dried-up well that they
were enabled to keep the least warmth in their bodies. Timbo, however,
appeared to be the greatest sufferer. One morning we were amazed at
finding his dark, shiny skin suddenly changed into a pale ashy gray.
Owing to the scarcity of water at this time of the year, game was rare.
Indeed, we only met with animals, such as the giraffe, the koodoo, the
gemsbok, the eland, &c., that either wholly or in great part can do
without water.
On the 1st of July, after about a fortnight’s steady travel, we reached
our encampment in safety. The two hundred miles of country we had crossed
presented, perhaps, as dreary and uninteresting a prospect as can well be
imagined.
In our absence, Tjopopa, with his people, left Okamabuti, and removed
a few miles farther to the westward. Our men followed his example.
On approaching the camp, we espied Hans perched in the top of a tree
anxiously looking out for our return. The whole party was almost wild
with delight at seeing us safe back, of which they began to despair. They
had passed a most dreary time. The natives, though friendly, teased and
annoyed them excessively with begging and even pilfering, the chief, as
not unfrequently happens, having been the most importunate of the whole
lot. Moreover, he had not paid his debt, nor would he sell Hans any more
cattle; and, as there was then very little game in the neighborhood,
they were so pressed for food that Hans was obliged to reduce the men’s
allowances very considerably. Our Damara servants lived for some time
solely on such birds and small animals as they could kill by means of the
dogs. Fortunately, Hans possessed some tobacco; and, while the natives
refused every thing else, he was able to obtain a few sheep for this
article, which proved a most opportune supply.
Not many days previous to our arrival eight Damara women had been
surprised by the Bushmen and unmercifully put to death. This, however,
was not to be wondered at, for the Damaras themselves are always waging
an exterminating war on the Bushmen. Indeed, they hunt them down,
wherever met with, like wild beasts.
Hans had succeeded in repairing the wagon most satisfactorily; and the
oxen, though rather lean, were in tolerably good working order. We now
determined to turn our faces homeward without a moment’s delay. A very
few days were sufficient to enable us to complete the final preparations.
By this time all the pools of rain-water which had befriended us on
our journey northward were dried up, and it would therefore have been
impossible to retrace our steps by the same route. The Damaras strongly
advised us to strike the Omuramba-k’Omatako at a certain point, and by
following its course they assured us we should find water and pasturage
in abundance. One man, in particular, who had always shown himself civil
and obliging, offered to act as guide the first part of the way; for
the remainder we secured the services of a lad professing to be well
acquainted with the country. Having on so many occasions been deceived by
the natives, we did not much relish the idea of again trusting ourselves
to their guidance. However, there was no alternative; and in this
instance, to do justice to the men, I must say they not only spoke the
truth, but performed their services most satisfactorily.
Without bidding farewell to Tjopopa, who throughout had treated us
inhospitably, we yoked our oxen on the 5th of July, and after about three
days’ travel arrived in the Omuramba. At this point the river (or rather
the river-bed) appeared to cease altogether; but the natives declared
that it continued to flow toward the Ovatjona or Matjo’na. I have since
ascertained that they alluded to the Bechuana country. Hence we traveled
steadily up toward its source. Its bed, which sometimes spread out into
a flat, and at others formed a narrow channel, afforded us always a good
and open road. The country on both sides was hemmed in by an apparently
endless thorn coppice. We usually found water daily, at first in pools,
but afterward exclusively in wells, varying in depth from a few feet to
as much as forty. These were generally choked up with sand, and it often
occupied us half a day to clean them out. I remember, on one occasion,
working hard, with a party consisting of about thirty men and women,
during upward of twenty hours, before we could obtain a sufficiency of
water. It was cold work; for about sunrise the ice was often half an inch
thick, and we had no waterproof boots to protect our feet.
Game now became abundant. We managed to kill sufficient for the table
without being obliged to have recourse to our few remaining live-stock. I
saw here for the first time that magnificent antelope, the eland.
Beasts of prey were likewise numerous. Indeed, they always follow the
larger game. During the nights we were constantly annoyed by the dismal
howlings of the hyænas; and we had some very exciting foot-chases after
these animals.
While out hunting early one morning I espied a small troop of gnoos
quietly grazing at a bend of the river. Cautiously approaching them under
shelter of the intervening ground, they suddenly tossed their heads,
switched their tails, scraped the earth impatiently with their hoofs, and
sniffed the air. I was puzzled how to account for this unusual agitation,
as, from my position, I was certain they could not have discovered me.
But I had not much time for conjecture, for the next instant I was
startled by the growl of some animal close to me. On looking in the
direction whence it proceeded, I discovered, to my utter astonishment,
two lions and a lioness on the rising ground just above me, and, as it
seemed, they also were on the look-out for the gnoos.[30] I instinctively
leveled my piece at the head of the nearest of the beasts; but a moment’s
reflection convinced me that the odds were too great, and I therefore
thought it best to reserve my fire, so as to be in readiness to receive
them should they charge. After having regarded me for a few seconds,
however, they growlingly disappeared behind a sand-hill.
By this time the gnoos had become aware of the lions, and were making
off at the top of their speed. Being anxious to obtain a shot at them,
I followed on their tracks, but soon found, to my dismay, that my three
royal friends, with jaws distended and uttering furious growls, were
following a course parallel to mine. Though I must confess I did not at
all like their looks, as only excessive hunger could have induced them,
in broad day, to seek for victims, I nevertheless continued to follow
the tracks of the antelopes until they led me into the bush, where I
presently lost them as well as myself.
[Illustration: UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS.]
On first seeing the gnoos, I left my henchman “Bill,” a Damara lad, who
carried my spare gun, at some distance behind, with directions to follow
on my track according to circumstances. Now that the gnoos were lost
to me, I shouted loudly to the youth, and also discharged my gun more
than once, but was unable to elicit a reply. Thinking, however, that he
might have returned to our encampment (which was at no great distance),
I also repaired there. But “Bill” had not been heard of. The harassing
suspicion at once crossed my mind that the lions had eaten him. Without
a moment’s delay, I hurried back to the spot where I had last seen the
beasts, but all my endeavors to find the poor fellow were unavailing.
What with anxiety on his account, and my exertions under a broiling sun
(for if the weather was frosty at night, it calcined one by day), I was
unable to proceed farther, and sat myself down on the ground to wait for
the arrival of the wagons, which were now moving forward. Just at this
moment, the Damara, to my inexpressible delight, emerged from the bush.
His story was soon told. He had, like myself, lost his way, and it was
long before he was able to recover the right track.
One morning, as we were about to yoke the oxen, we were amused to see
them suddenly start off in every direction in the wildest confusion, and
cutting the most ridiculous capers. The cause of this commotion was the
arrival of a large flock of the _buphaga Africana_, which alighted on the
backs of the cattle for the purpose of feeding on the ticks with which
their hides are covered. By means of their long claws and elastic tails,
these birds are enabled to cling to and search every part of the beast.
It was evident, however, that our oxen had never experienced a similar
visitation; no wonder, therefore, that they were taken somewhat aback at
being thus unceremoniously assailed.
The _buphaga Africana_ is also a frequent companion of the rhinoceros,
to which, besides being of service in ridding him of many of the insects
that infest his hide, it performs the important part of sentinel. On many
occasions has this watchful bird prevented me from getting a shot at that
beast. The moment it suspects danger, it flies almost perpendicularly up
into the air, uttering sharp, shrill notes, that never fail to attract
the attention of the rhinoceros, who, without waiting to ascertain the
cause, almost instantly seeks safety in a precipitate flight. According
to Mr. Cumming, these birds also attend upon the hippopotamus.
Another bird (_textor erythrorhynchus_) is also in the habit of feeding
upon parasitical insects, but is said to restrict its visits to the
buffalo. In the part of Damara-land of which I am now speaking, that
animal is unknown, yet the bird was in very great numbers. It appeared to
be very social in its habits, living in colonies, and building its nest,
which consists of dry sticks, on lofty trees.
We also made acquaintance with a small, sparrow-looking bird, the
_amadina squamifrons_, which deserves notice on account of its peculiar
and interesting nest. According to Dr. Andrew Smith, this is placed
on a small shrub, and is constructed of grass. But in Damara-land and
parts adjacent, the materials are of a beautifully soft texture, not
unlike sheep’s wool. I never could discover the plant from which it was
procured. The Hottentots use it as a substitute for gun-wadding, and it
is by no means a bad makeshift. The nest is so strongly put together that
one has difficulty in separating it. When the old bird absents itself, it
effectually conceals the opening of the nest from view. Even long after I
was acquainted with this peculiarity, I was puzzled to find it out. Just
above the entrance is a small hollow, which has no communication with the
interior of the nest, but which, by the uninitiated, is often mistaken
for it. In this tube the male bird sits at night.
We occasionally fell in with Damara villages. In our journey northward
the natives had shown themselves excessively timid and suspicious, but
now that they had so many evidences of our peaceful intentions, they
approached our camp without the least reserve or hesitation; but we could
not induce them to part with any cattle, of which we stood much in need.
On the 26th of July we came in sight of Omatako, and many other well
known hills. On the 3d of August we found ourselves at Schmelen’s Hope;
but how different an aspect did it present to that which lived in our
memory! When we left it about three months previously, the country was
covered with the most luxuriant vegetation. Since then, the Damaras had
been encamping there with their cattle, and we were now unable to obtain
sufficient pasturage for our animals. The water, moreover, was all but
exhausted.
On the following day, the 4th of August, we continued our journey to
Barmen, where we arrived on the afternoon of the same day safe and well.
Thus ended an expedition which, although it might not have been so
successful as we had anticipated, was not without its fruits.