[Illustration: LIONS PULLING DOWN GIRAFFE.]
LAKE NGAMI;
OR,
EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES
DURING
FOUR YEARS’ WANDERINGS IN THE WILDS
OF
SOUTHWESTERN AFRICA.
BY
CHARLES JOHN ANDERSSON.
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS,
REPRESENTING SPORTING ADVENTURES, SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY,
DEVICES FOR DESTROYING WILD ANIMALS, &c.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1856.
PREFACE.
The following Narrative of Explorations and Discoveries during four years
in the wilds of the southwestern parts of Africa contains the account of
two expeditions in that continent between the years 1850 and 1854. In the
first of these journeys, the countries of the Damaras (previously all but
unknown in Europe) and of the Ovambo (till now a _terra incognita_) were
explored; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake Ngami was reached by a
route that had always been deemed impracticable. It is more than probable
that this route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the one by
which commerce and civilization may eventually find their way to the Lake
regions.
The first journey was performed in company with Mr. Francis Galton, to
whom we are indebted for a work on “Tropical South Africa;” on the second
the Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own very scanty
resources.
It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first journey, that,
from the ground having been preoccupied, it would be best for him to
commence where his friend left off. There was some reason for this;
but, on mature consideration, he deemed it desirable to start from the
beginning, otherwise he could not have given a connected and detailed
account of the regions he visited. Moreover, from the Author having
remained two years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only been
enabled to ascertain the truth respecting much that at first appeared
obscure and doubtful, but has had many opportunities of enlarging the
stock of information acquired by himself and friend when together.
Besides, they were often separated for long periods, during which many
incidents and adventures occurred to the Author that are scarcely alluded
to in “Tropical South Africa.” And, lastly, the impressions received by
different individuals, even under similar circumstances, are generally
found to vary greatly, which, in itself, would be a sufficient reason for
the course the Author has decided on pursuing.
As will be seen, the present writer has not only described the general
appearance of the regions he visited, but has given the best information
he was able to collect of the geological features of the country, and of
its probable mineral wealth; and, slight though it may be, he had the
gratification of finding that the hints he threw out at the Cape and
elsewhere were acted upon, that mining companies were formed, and that
mining operations are now carried on to some extent in regions heretofore
considered as utterly worthless.
The Author has also spoken at some length of the religion, and manners,
and customs of such of the native tribes (previously all but unknown to
Europeans) visited by him during his several journeys. He also noted
many of their superstitions, for too much attention, as has been truly
observed, can not be paid to the mythological traditions of savages.
Considerable discretion is, of course, needful in this matter, as,
if every portion were to be literally received, we might be led into
grievous errors; still, by attending to what many might call absurd
superstitions, we not only attain to a knowledge of the mental tendencies
of the natives, but are made acquainted with interesting facts touching
the geographical distribution of men and inferior animals.
Since the different members constituting the brute creation are so
intimately connected with the economy of man, and since many of the
beasts and birds indigenous to those parts of Africa visited by the
Author are still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable to
enter largely into their habits, &c., the rather as natural history has
from childhood been his favorite pursuit, and is a subject on which
he therefore feels conversant; and though part of what he has stated
regarding the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the koodoo, the ostrich,
and others of the almost incalculable varieties of animals found in the
African wilderness may be known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that
the general reader will find matter he has not previously met with.
The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found in this work
(faithfully depicting the scenes described) are by Mr. Wolf—“the Landseer
of animals and vegetation,” to quote the words of the Earl of Ellesmere
in a note which his lordship did me the honor to write to me.
The Author has endeavored in the following pages faithfully, and in
plain and unassuming language, to record his experiences, impressions,
feelings, and impulses, under circumstances often peculiarly trying. He
lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an earnest desire to make
himself useful and to further the cause of science.
It is more than probable that his career as an explorer and pioneer to
civilization and commerce is terminated; still he would fain hope that
his humble exertions may not be without their fruits.
When he first arrived in Africa, he generally traveled on foot throughout
the whole of the day, regardless of heat, and almost scorning the idea
of riding on horseback, or using any other mode of conveyance; indeed,
he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance; but now, owing to the
severe hardships he has undergone, his constitution is undermined, and
the foundation of a malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry
with him to the day of his death; yet such is the perverseness of human
nature that, did circumstances permit, he would return to this life of
trial and privation.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Sweden.—Day-dreams.—Fraternal Love.—A tempting
Offer.—Preparations for Journey to Africa.—Departure from
England.—Arrival at the Cape.—Town and Inhabitants.—Table
Mountain.—Curious Legend.—Preparation for Journey into the
Interior.—Departure for Walfisch Bay Page 19
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Scenery.—Harbor described.—Want of
Water.—Capabilities for Trade.—Fish.—Wild-fowl.—Mirage.—Sand
Fountain.—The Bush-tick.—The Naras.—Quadrupeds scarce.—Meeting
the Hottentots.—Their filthy Habits.—The Alarum.—The
Turn-out.—Death of a Lion.—Arrival at Scheppmansdorf.—The
Place described.—Mr. Bam.—Missionary Life.—Ingratitude of
Natives.—Missionary Wagons 29
CHAPTER III.
Preparations for Journey.—Breaking-in Oxen.—Departure from
Scheppmansdorf.—An infuriated Ox.—The Naarip Plain.—The
scarlet Flower.—The Usab Gorge.—The Swakop River.—Tracks of
Rhinoceros seen.—Anecdote of that Animal.—A Sunrise in the
Tropics.—Sufferings from Heat and Thirst.—Arrival at Daviep:
great resort of Lions.—A Horse and Mule killed by them.—The
Author goes in pursuit.—A troop of Lions.—Unsuccessful
Chase.—Mules’ flesh palatable 44
CHAPTER IV.
The Gnoo and the Gemsbok.—Pursuit of a Rhinoceros.—Venomous
Fly.—Fruit of the Acacia nutritious.—Sun-stroke.—Crested
Parrot.—A Giraffe shot.—Tjobis Fountain.—Singular
Omelet.—Nutritious Gum.—Arrival at Richterfeldt.—Mr. Rath and
the Missions.—The Damaras: their Persons, Habits, &c.—Lions
Troublesome.—Panic.—Horse Sickness 56
CHAPTER V.
Hans Larsen.—His Exploits.—He joins the Expedition.—How
people travel on Ox-back.—Rhinoceros Hunt.—Death of the
Beast.—“Look before you Leap.”—Anecdote proving the
Truth of the Proverb.—Hans and the Lion.—The Doctor in
Difficulties.—Sufferings on the Naarip Plain.—Arrival at
Scheppmansdorf 68
CHAPTER VI.
Return to Scheppmansdorf.—Training Oxen for the
Yoke.—Sporting.—The Flamingo.—The Butcher-bird: curious
Superstition regarding it.—Preparing for Journey.—Servants
described 76
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Scheppmansdorf.—Cattle refractory at
starting.—Tincas.—Always travel by Night.—Rhinoceros Hunt.—The
Author in danger of a second Sun-stroke.—Reach Onanis.—A
Tribe of Hill-Damaras settled there.—Singular Manner in
which these People smoke.—Effects of the Weed.—The Euphorbia
Candelabrum.—Remarkable Properties of this vegetable
Poison.—Guinea-fowl: the best Manner of shooting them.—Meet
a troop of Giraffes.—Tjobis Fountain again.—Attacked by
Lions.—Providential Escape.—Arrival at Richterfeldt 83
CHAPTER VIII.
A hearty Welcome.—We remove the Encampment.—An
Apparition.—Audacity of wild Beasts.—Depriving Lions of their
Prey.—Excessive Heat.—Singular effects of great Heat.—Depart
for Barmen.—Meet a troop of Zebras.—Their flesh not equal
to Venison.—The Missionary’s Wall.—A sad Catastrophe.—The
“Kameel-Doorn.”—Buxton Fountain.—The Scorpion.—Arrival at
Barmen 95
CHAPTER IX.
Barmen.—Thunder-storm in the Tropics.—A Man killed by
Lightning.—Warm Spring.—Mr. Hahn: his Missionary Labor; Seed
sown in exceeding stony Ground.—The Lake Omanbondè.—Mr.
Galton’s Mission of Peace.—The Author meets a Lion by the way;
the Beast bolts.—Singular Chase of a Gnoo.—“Killing two Birds
with one Stone.”—A Lion Hunt.—The Author escapes Death by a
Miracle.—Consequences of shooting on a Sunday 106
CHAPTER X.
A Christmas in the Desert.—Mr. Galton’s Return from the Erongo
Mountain.—He passes numerous Villages.—Great Drought; the
Natives have a Choice of two Evils.—The Hill-Damaras.—The
Damaras a Pastoral People.—The whole country Public
Property.—Enormous herds of Cattle.—They are as destructive as
Locusts to the Vegetation.—Departure from Richterfeldt.—The
Author kills an Oryx.—The Oxen refractory.—Danger of traversing
dry Water-courses on the approach of the Rainy Season.—Message
from the Robber-chief Jonker.—Emeute among the Servants.—Depart
for Schmelen’s Hope 119
CHAPTER XI.
Schmelen’s Hope.—Scenery.—Missionary Station.—Raid of the
Namaquas.—Ingratitude of the Natives.—Jonker’s Feud with
Kahichenè; his Barbarities; his Treachery.—Mr. Galton departs
for Eikams.—Author’s successful sporting Excursions.—He
captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo.—They are easily
domesticated.—Hyænas very troublesome; several destroyed by
Spring-guns.—The latter described.—Visit from a Leopard; it
wounds a Dog; Chase and Death of the Leopard.—The Caracal 126
CHAPTER XII.
Wild-fowl abundant.—The Great Bustard.—The Termites.—Wild
Bees.—Mushrooms.—The Chief Zwartbooi.—Return of Mr. Galton.—He
makes a Treaty with Jonker.—He visits Rehoboth.—Misdoings
of John Waggoner and Gabriel.—Change of Servants.—Swarm of
Caterpillars.—A reconnoitring Expedition.—Thunder-storm.—The
Omatako Mountains.—Zebra-flesh a God-send.—Tropical
Phenomenon.—The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity.—Encamp
in an Ant-hill.—Return to Schmelen’s Hope.—Preparations for
visiting Omanbondè 135
CHAPTER XIII.
Depart from Schmelen’s Hope.—Meeting with Kahichenè.—Oxen
Stolen.—Summary Justice.—Superstition.—Meeting an old
Friend.—Singular Custom.—Gluttony of the Damaras.—How they
eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound.—Superstitious
Custom.—A nondescript Animal.—The Author loses his Way.—Ravages
of the Termites.—“Wait a bit, if you please.”—Magnificent
Fountain.—Remains of Damara Villages.—Horrors of War.—Meet
Bushmen.—Meet Damaras.—Difficulties encountered by African
Travelers.—Reach the Lake Omanbondè.—Cruel Disappointment 146
CHAPTER XIV.
Omanbondè visited by Hippopotami.—Vegetation, &c.,
described.—Game somewhat scarce.—Combat between Elephant
and Rhinoceros.—Advance or Retreat.—Favorable reports of
the Ovambo-land.—Resolve to proceed there.—Reconnoitre
the Country.—Depart from Omanbondè.—Author shoots a
Giraffe.—Splendid Mirage.—The Fan-palm.—The Guide
absconds.—Commotion among the Natives.—Arrive at
Okamabuti.—Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—Vegetation.—Accident
to Wagon.—Obliged to proceed on Ox-back.—The Party go
astray.—Baboon Fountain.—Meeting with the Ovambo; their
personal Appearance, &c.—Return to Encampment.—An Elephant
killed.—Discover a curious Plant.—Immorality.—Reflections 162
CHAPTER XV.
Depart from Okamabuti.—Visit from a Lion.—Amulets.—Revisit
Baboon Fountain.—Otjikoto; a wonderful Freak of Nature;
Remarkable Cavern.—Natives unacquainted with the Art
of Swimming.—Fish abundant in Otjikoto; frequented by
immense Flocks of Doves.—Panic of the Ovambo on seeing
Birds shot on the Wing.—Arrive at Omutjamatunda.—A greasy
Welcome.—Ducks and Grouse numerous.—Author finds himself
somewhat “overdone.”—“Salt-pans.”—All “look Blue.”—A second
Paradise.—Hospitable Reception.—Vegetation.—People live in
Patriarchal Style.—Population.—Enormous Hogs.—Arrive at the
Residence of the redoubtable Nangoro 178
CHAPTER XVI.
Visit from Nangoro.—His extreme Obesity.—One must be fat to
wear a Crown.—His non-appreciation of Eloquence.—Singular
Effects of Fireworks on the Natives.—Cure for making
a wry Face.—Ball at the Palace.—The Ladies very
attractive and very loving.—Their Dress, Ornaments,
&c.—Honesty of the Ovambo.—Kindness to the Poor.—Love of
Country.—Hospitality.—Delicate manner of Eating.—Loose
Morals.—Law of Succession.—Religion.—Houses.—Domestic
Animals.—Implements of Husbandry.—Manner of Tilling the
Ground.—Articles of Barter.—Metallurgy 190
CHAPTER XVII.
The River Cunenè.—The Travelers are Prisoners at large.—Kingly
Revenge.—Kingly Liberality.—Depart from Ondonga.—Sufferings and
Consequences resulting from Cold.—Return to Okamabuti.—Damara
Women murdered by Bushmen.—Preparations for Journey.—Obtain
Guides.—Depart from Tjopopa’s Werft.—Game abundant.—Author
and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company.—Extraordinary
Visitation.—The Rhinoceros’s Guardian Angel.—The Textor
Erythrorhynchus.—The Amadina Squamifrons; singular Construction
of its Nest.—Return to Barmen 201
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Damaras.—Whence they came.—Their Conquests.—The
Tide turns.—Damara-land only partially inhabited.—Climate.—
Seasons.—Mythology.—Religion.—Superstitions.—Marriage.—
Polygamy.—Children.—Circumcision.—Bury their Dead.—Way they
mourn.—Children interred alive.—Burial of the Chief, and
Superstitions consequent thereon.—Maladies.—Damaras do not live
long; the Cause thereof.—Food.—Music and Dancing.—How they
swear.—Power of the Chieftain limited.—Slothful
People.—Numerals.—Astronomy.—Domestic Animals; their Diseases
214
CHAPTER XIX.
Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town.—Depart from
Barmen.—Eikhams.—Eyebrecht.—Depart from Eikhams.—Elephant
Fountain.—Tunobis.—Enormous quantities of Game.—Shooting
by Night at the “Skarm.”—The Author has several narrow
Escapes.—Checked in attempt to reach the Ngami.—The Party
set out on their Return.—Reach Elephant Fountain.—How to
make Soap.—Pitfalls.—A night Adventure.—Game scarce.—Join
Hans.—The Party nearly poisoned.—Arrival at Walfisch
Bay.—A tub Adventure.—Extraordinary Mortality among the
Fish.—Author narrowly escapes Drowning.—Arrival of the
Missionary Vessel.—Letters from Home.—Mr. Galton returns to
Europe.—Reflections 229
CHAPTER XX.
Capture of young Ostriches.—Natural History of the Ostrich;
where found; Description of; Size; Weight; Age; Voice;
Strength; Speed; Food; Water; Breeding; Incubation; Cunning;
Stones found in Eggs; Chicks; Flesh.—Brain in request among the
Romans.—Eggs highly prized.—Uses of Egg-shells.—Feathers an
article of Commerce.—Ostrich Parasols.—The Bird’s destructive
Propensities.—Habits.—Resembles Quadrupeds.—Domestication.—The
Chase.—Snares.—Ingenious Device.—Enemies of the Ostrich 247
CHAPTER XXI.
Sudden Floods.—John Allen’s Sufferings.—Hans and the
Author enter into Partnership.—Young Grass injurious
to Cattle.—Depart from Walfisch Bay.—Attractive
Scenery.—Troops of Lions.—Extraordinary Proceedings of
Kites.—Flight of Butterflies.—Attachment of Animals to one
another.—Arrival at Richterfeldt; at Barmen.—Hans’s narrow
Escape.—Self-possession.—Heavy Rains.—Runaway Ox; he tosses
the Author.—Depart from Barmen.—Difficulty of crossing
Rivers.—Encounter great numbers of Oryxes 264
CHAPTER XXII.
The Oryx; more than one Species.—Where found.—Probably
known in Europe previous to the discovery of the
Passage round the Cape of Good Hope.—Description of the
Oryx.—Gregarious.—Speed.—Food.—Water not necessary to its
existence.—Will face the Lion.—Formidable Horns.—Their
Use.—Flesh.—The Chase of this Animal 272
CHAPTER XXIII.
Arrival at Eikhams.—Native Dogs; cruelly treated.—Jonker
Afrikaner.—The Author visits the Red Nation; the bad Repute
of these People.—The Author attacked by Ophthalmia.—The
embryo Locust.—The “flying” Locust; its Devastations.—The
Locust-bird.—Arrival at Rehoboth; the Place described 277
CHAPTER XXIV.
Return to Eikhams.—Ugly Fall.—Splendid Landscape.—Jonker’s
Delinquencies.—How to manage the Natives.—The Ondara.—It
kills a Man.—How his Comrade revenges him.—Medical Properties
of the Ondara.—The Cockatrice.—The Cobra di Capella.—The
Puff-adder.—The Spitting Snake.—The Black Snake.—Few Deaths
caused by Snakes.—Antidotes for Snake-bites.—Return to Rehoboth
287
CHAPTER XXV.
The Author’s Tent takes Fire.—He loses every thing but his
Papers.—He is laid on a bed of Sickness.—Want of Medicine,
&c.—Reflections.—Whole Villages infected with Fever.—Abundance
of Game.—Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich.—A Lion breakfasts
on his Wife.—Wonderful shooting Star.—Remarkable Mirage.—Game
and Lions plentiful.—The Ebony-tree.—Arrival at Bethany, a
Missionary Station.—The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle.—A
thirsty Man’s Cogitation.—Curious Superstition.—The Damara
Cattle described.—People who live entirely without Water.—Cross
the Orange River.—Sterile Country 299
CHAPTER XXVI.
Great Namaqua-land.—Its Boundaries and Extent.—Its
Rivers.—Nature of the Country.—Vegetation and
Climate.—Geological Structure.—Minerals.—“Topnaars” and
“Oerlams.”—Houses.—Mythology and Religion.—Tumuli.—Wonderful
Rock.—Curious Legend of the Hare.—Coming of Age.—The
Witch-doctor.—Amulets.—Superstitions.—A Namaqua’s notion
of the Sun.—Marriage.—Polygamy.—Children.—Barbarous
Practice.—Longevity.—Singular
Customs.—Ornaments.—Tattooing.—Arms.—Idle Habits.—Fond of
Amusements.—Music and Dancing.—Spirits.—Mead.—Domestic Animals
311
CHAPTER XXVII.
Leave the Orange River.—Arrival at Komaggas.—Gardening and
Agriculture.—The Author starts alone for the Cape.—Colony
Horses.—Enmity of the Boers to “Britishers.”—Dutch
Salutation.—The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or
no.—He arrives at Cape-Town.—Cuts a sorry figure.—Is run away
with.—A Feast of Oranges.—Ghost Stories.—Cattle Auction.—Hans
and John Allen proceed to Australia.—Preparations for Journey
to the Ngami.—Departure from the Cape 325
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Atrocities of the Namaquas.—Mr.
Hahn.—His Philanthropy.—Author departs for Richterfeldt.—Shoots
a Lion.—Lions unusually numerous.—Piet’s Performances with
Lions.—The Lion a Church-goer.—Barmen.—Eikhams.—Kamapyu’s
mad Doings and Consequences thereof.—Kamapyu is wounded by
other Shafts than Cupid’s.—Author visits Cornelius; here he
meets Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters.—Reach
Rehoboth.—Tan’s Mountain.—Copper Ore.—Jonathan Afrika.—A Lion
sups on a Goat.—A Lion besieges the Cattle 339
CHAPTER XXIX.
Dispatch Cattle to the Cape.—Terrible Thunder-storm.—Trees
struck by Lightning.—The Nosop River.—A Comet.—The Author
nearly poisoned.—Some of the Men abscond; they return
to their Duty.—Babel-like confusion of Tongues.—Game
abundant.—Author shoots a Giraffe.—Meet Bushmen.—Unsuccessful
Elephant-hunt.—Sufferings from Hunger.—Tunobis.—Game
scarce.—Author and Steed entrapped.—Pitfalls.—The Men turn
sulky.—Preparations for departure from Tunobis.—Vicious
Pack-oxen.—Consequences of excessive Fatigue.—The Jackal’s
handiwork.—Tracks of Elephants.—More Pitfalls.—Loss of the
Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross.—Reach Ghanzé 351
CHAPTER XXX.
Ghanzé.—Spotted Hyæna.—The Rhinoceros.—Where found.—Several
Species.—Description of Rhinoceros.—Size.—Appearance.—Age.—
Strength.—Speed.—Food.—Water.—The Young.—Affection.—Senses.—
Disposition.—Gregarious.—Indolence.—Domestication.—Flesh.—
Horns.—The Chase.—Mr. Oswell’s Adventures with Rhinoceroses.—A
Crotchet.—Where to aim at the Rhinoceros.—Does not bleed
externally when wounded.—Great numbers slain annually 368
CHAPTER XXXI.
Departure from Ghanzé.—Nectar in the Desert.—Difficulty in
finding Water.—Arrive at Abeghan.—Unsuccessful Chase.—A
“Charm.”—How to make the undrinkable drinkable.—An Elephant
wounded and killed.—Bold and courageous Dog.—Kobis.—Author
seized with a singular Malady.—Messengers dispatched to the
Chief of the Lake Ngami.—A large troop of Elephants.—Author
kills a huge Male.—Lions and Giraffe.—Author’s hair-breadth
Escapes: from a black Rhinoceros; from a white Rhinoceros;
from two troops of Elephants; he shoots a couple of his
Adversaries.—Where to aim at an Elephant 386
CHAPTER XXXII.
Timbo’s Return from the Lake; his Logic; he takes the Law
in his own Hands.—Calf of Author’s Leg goes astray.—A
troop of Elephants.—Author is charged by one of them, and
narrowly escapes Death.—He shoots a white Rhinoceros.—He
disables a black Rhinoceros.—He is charged and desperately
bruised and wounded by the latter.—He saves the Life of his
Attendant, Kamapyu.—Author again charged by the Rhinoceros,
and escapes Destruction only by the opportune Death of his
Antagonist.—Reflections.—He starts for the Ngami 402
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Start from Kobis.—Meet Bechuanas.—False Report.—Wonderful
Race of Men.—The Baobob-tree.—The Ngami.—First Impressions of
the Lake.—Reflections.—Experience some Disappointment.—Reach
the Zouga River and encamp near it.—Interview with Chief
Lecholètébè.—Information refused.—Immoderate Laughter.—Presents
to the Chief.—His Covetousness.—His Cruelty.—Formidable
Difficulties.—Author permitted to proceed northward 413
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Ngami.—When discovered.—Its various Names.—Its Size and
Form.—Great Changes in its Waters.—Singular Phenomenon.—The
Teoge River.—The Zouga River.—The Mukuru-Mukovanja
River.—Animals.—Birds.—Crocodiles.—Serpents.—Fish 423
CHAPTER XXXV.
The Batoana.—Government.—Eloquence.—Language.—Mythology.—
Religion.—Superstition.—The Rain-maker.—Polygamy.—
Circumcision.—Burial.—Disposition of the Bechuanas.—Thievish
Propensities.—Dress.—Great Snuff-takers.—Smoking.—Occupations.—
Agriculture.—Commerce.—Hunting and Fishing 436
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Departure for Libèbé.—The Canoe.—The Lake.—Reach the
Teoge.—Adventure with a Leché.—Luxurious Vegetation.—Exuberance
of animal Life.—Buffaloes.—The Koodoo.—His
Haunts.—Pace.—Food.—Flesh.—Hide.—Disposition.—Gregarious
Habits.—The Chase 456
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Tsetse Fly.—Confined to particular Spots.—Its Size.—Its
Destructiveness.—Fatal to Domestic Animals.—Symptoms in the Ox
when bitten by the Tsetse 468
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
The Crocodile.—An Englishman killed by one of these
Monsters.—The Omoroanga Vavarra River.—Hardships.—Beautiful
Scenery.—Lecholètébè’s Treachery.—The Reed-ferry 471
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Bayeye.—Their Country; Persons; Language;
Disposition; Lying and Pilfering Habits.—Polygamy
practiced among the Bayeye.—Their Houses; Dress;
Ornaments; Weapons; Liquors; Agriculture; Grain; Fruits;
Granaries.—Hunting.—Fishing.—Nets.—Diseases.—The
Matsanyana.—The Bavicko.—Libèbé 476
CHAPTER XL.
Departure from the Bayeye Werft.—The Reed-raft.—The
Hippopotamus.—Behemoth or Hippopotamus.—Where found.—Two
Species.—Description of Hippopotamus.—Appearance.—Size.—Swims
like a Duck.—Food.—Destructive Propensities of the
Animal.—Disposition.—Sagacity.—Memory.—Gregarious
Habits.—Nocturnal
Habits.—Domestication.—Food.—Flesh.—Hide.—Ivory.—Medicinal
Virtues 485
CHAPTER XLI.
The Bayeye harpoon the Hippopotamus.—The Harpoon described.—How
the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye.—How
it was conducted by the ancient Egyptians.—The Spear used by
them.—Ferocity of the Hippopotamus.—Killed by Guns.—Frightful
Accident.—The Downfall 495
CHAPTER XLII.
Return to the Lake.—The Author starts for Namaqua-land to
procure Wagons.—Night Adventure with a Lion.—Death of the
Beast.—Sufferings of the Author 506
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page
LIONS PULLING DOWN GIRAFFE _To face Title._
MALAY 24
VIEW OF WALFISCH BAY 30
DAMARAS 63
HILL-DAMARA PIPE 89
THE LUCKY ESCAPE 117
SHOOTING-TRAP 132
FAN-PALM 167
OVAMBO PIPE 174
OVAMBO DAGGER AND SHEATH 174
OVAMBO HATCHET 174
OVAMBO BASKET FOR MERCHANDISE 174
OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN 180
INTERVIEW WITH KING NANGORO 191
OVAMBO BEER-CUP AND BEER-SPOON 193
OVAMBO GUITAR 193
OVAMBO 195
OVAMBO MEAT-DISH 197
OVAMBO DWELLING-HOUSE AND CORN-STORES 200
VIEW IN ONDONGA 201
OVAMBO BLACKSMITHS AT WORK 203
UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS 211
DAMARA GRAVE 224
JONKER AFRIKANER 232
WILD BOAR’S HEAD 233
COURSING YOUNG OSTRICHES 249
ORYX OR GEMSBOK 273
SKULL OF A BECHUANA OX 308
DACRE’S PULPIT 333
NEGRO BOY 338
PITFALLS 361
HEADS OF RHINOCEROSES 371
HORNS OF RHINOCEROS OSWELLII 372
FŒTUS OF RHINOCEROS KEITLOA 376
THE APPROACH OF ELEPHANTS 398
MORE CLOSE THAN AGREEABLE 406
DESPERATE SITUATION 409
NAKONG AND LECHÉ 432
THE BECHUANA PICHO 438
ASCENDING THE TEOGE 461
TSETSE FLY 468
THE REED-FERRY 476
BAYEYE 481
MEDAL 493
HIPPOPOTAMUS HARPOON 496
THE REED-RAFT AND HARPOONERS 497
THE SPEAR 498
EGYPTIANS AND HIPPOPOTAMUS 500
THE SPEAR 501
THE REEL 501
THE DOWNFALL 505
AUTHOR AND STEED BROKEN DOWN 510
SIGNAL STATION AT CAPE-TOWN 511
LAKE NGAMI.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Sweden.—Day-dreams.—Fraternal Love.—A tempting
Offer.—Preparations for Journey to Africa.—Departure from
England.—Arrival at the Cape.—Town and Inhabitants.—Table
Mountain.—Curious Legend.—Preparation for Journey into the
Interior.—Departure for Walfisch Bay.
It was at the close of the year 1849 that I left Gothenbourg, in a
sailing vessel, for Hull, at which place I arrived in safety, after
a boisterous and somewhat dangerous passage of about fourteen days’
duration. Though a Swede by birth, I am half an Englishman by parentage;
and it was with pleasure that I visited, for the second time, a country
endeared to me by the ties of kindred and the remembrance of former
hospitality.
My stay in England, however, was intended to be only of short duration.
I carried with me thither a considerable collection of living birds
and quadrupeds, together with numerous preserved specimens of natural
history, the produce of many a long hunting excursion amid the mountains,
lakes, and forests of my native country. These I was anxious to dispose
of in England, and then proceed in my travels, though to what quarter of
the globe I had scarcely yet determined.
From my earliest youth, my day-dreams had carried me into the wilds of
Africa. Passionately fond of traveling, accustomed from my childhood to
field sports and to the study of natural history, and (as I hope I may
say with truth) desirous of rendering myself useful in my generation, I
earnestly longed to explore some portion of that continent where all my
predilections could be fully indulged, and where much still remained in
obscurity which might advantageously be brought to light. The expense,
however, of such a journey was to me an insurmountable obstacle. I had,
therefore, long since given up all idea of making it, and had turned my
thoughts northward to Iceland, a country within my reach, and where I
purposed studying the habits and characteristics of the rarer species of
the northern fauna. While at Hull, accordingly, I consulted some whaling
captains on the subject of my enterprise, and had almost completed my
arrangements, when a visit to London, on some private affairs, entirely
changed my destination.
Before leaving Hull I witnessed a striking example of that attachment
toward each other so frequently found to exist in the most savage
animals. By the kindness of the secretary, I had been permitted to place
my collection in the gardens of the Hull Zoological Society. Among
others were two brown bears—twins—somewhat more than a year old, and
playful as kittens when together. Indeed, no greater punishment could be
inflicted upon these beasts than to disunite them for however short a
time. Still, there was a marked contrast in their dispositions. One of
them was good-tempered and gentle as a lamb, while the other frequently
exhibited signs of a sulky and treacherous character. Tempted by an offer
for the purchase of the former of these animals, I consented, after much
hesitation, to his being separated from his brother.
It was long before I forgave myself this act. On the following day, on my
proceeding, as usual, to inspect the collection, one of the keepers ran
up to me in the greatest haste, exclaiming, “Sir, I am glad you are come,
for your bear has gone mad!” He then told me that, during the night, the
beast had destroyed his den, and was found in the morning roaming wild
about the garden. Luckily, the keeper managed to seize him just as he
was escaping into the country, and, with the help of several others,
succeeded in shutting him up again. The bear, however, refused his food,
and raved in so fearful a manner that, unless he could be quieted, it was
clear he would do some mischief.
On my arrival at his den, I found the poor brute in a most furious state,
tearing the wooden floor with his claws, and gnawing the barricaded front
with his teeth. I had no sooner opened the door than he sprang furiously
at me, and struck me repeated blows with his powerful paws. As, however,
I had reared him from a cub, we had too often measured our strength
together for me to fear him now; and I soon made him retreat into the
corner of his prison, where he remained howling in the most heartrending
manner. It was a most sickening sight to behold the poor creature with
his eyes bloodshot, and protruding from the sockets; his mouth and chest
white with foam, and his body crusted with dirt. I am not ashamed to
confess that at one time I felt my own eyes moistened. Neither blows nor
kind words were of any effect: they only served to irritate and infuriate
him; and I saw clearly that the only remedy would be, either to shoot
him, or to restore him to his brother’s companionship. I chose the latter
alternative; and the purchaser of the other bear, my kind friend Sir
Henry Hunloke, on being informed of the circumstance, consented to take
this one also.
Shortly after my arrival in London, Sir Hyde Parker, another valued
friend of mine, and “The King of Fishermen,” introduced me to Mr. Francis
Galton, who was then just on the point of undertaking an expedition to
Southern Africa; his intention being to explore the unknown regions
beyond the boundary of the Cape of Good Hope Colony, and to penetrate,
if possible, to the recently discovered Lake Ngami. Upon finding that
I also had an intention of traveling, and that our tastes and pursuits
were in many respects similar, he proposed to me to give up my talked-of
trip to the far north, and accompany him to the southward; promising, at
the same time, to pay the whole of my expenses. This offer awoke within
me all my former ambition; and, although I could not be blind to the
difficulties and dangers that must necessarily attend such an expedition,
I embraced, after some hesitation, Mr. Galton’s tempting and liberal
proposal.
Preparations for our long and hazardous journey were now rapidly made. An
immense quantity of goods of every kind was speedily amassed, intended
partly for barter and partly for presents to barbarous chiefs. Muskets,
long sword-knives, boar-spears, axes, hatchets, clasp and strike-light
knives, Dutch tinder-boxes, daggers, burning-glasses, compasses, gilt
rings (copper or brass), alarums, beads of every size and color,
wolf-traps, rat-traps, old military dresses, cast-off embassador’s
uniforms—these, and a host of other articles too various to enumerate,
formed our stock in trade.
To the above we added, mostly for our own use, guns and rifles, a vast
quantity of ammunition of all kinds, instruments for taking observations,
arsenical and other preparations for preserving objects of natural
history, writing materials, sketch-books, paints, pencils, canteens,
knives, forks, dishes, &c.
It was also deemed advisable that we should take with us boats for the
navigation of Lake Ngami, those used by the natives being unsafe. We
therefore supplied ourselves with three, each adapted for a specific
purpose.
Having thus provided, as far as possible, for all emergences, we
transferred ourselves and baggage on board the splendid but unfortunate
ship, the _Dalhousie_.[1] Here we found, to our dismay, in addition to
a number of other passengers, several hundred emigrants, destined to the
Cape of Good Hope. Instead, however, of these people proving, as we had
at first anticipated, a great annoyance, we found that they contributed
considerably toward enlivening and diverting us during a long and tedious
passage.
I am not, however, about to inflict upon my readers the particulars of
our voyage to the Cape. Suffice it to say that, after a few days’ delay
at Plymouth, we put to sea in half a gale of wind, on the 7th of April,
1850, and experienced subsequently the usual vicissitudes of rough and
smooth weather. At one time we were carried by a gentle breeze past the
lovely island of Madeira, and so near as to distinguish its pleasant
vineyards, and neat, pretty cottages, scattered over the mountain side
to the very summit; at another we were driven so far westward by gales
and adverse winds as to sight the coast of South America, until, at
length, on the night of the 23d of June, the much-wished-for land was
descried, and on the following noon we anchored safely in Table Bay,
after a passage of eighty-six days—a time at least a third longer than
the average. How truly welcome to my eyes, as we sailed into the bay, was
the fine panoramic view of Cape-Town, with the picturesque Table Mountain
rising immediately in the background!
Upon landing, we took up our quarters at Welch’s hotel. Our design was to
stay a short time at Cape-Town, in order to obtain information respecting
our intended route, and to procure whatever was still wanting for our
journey. We then proposed to proceed by land northward, taking the course
of the Trans-Vaal river. It will presently be seen, however, that our
desires in this respect were entirely frustrated.
To give to an English reader a full description of Cape-Town would,
indeed, be a superfluous task. I fear, also, that in some respects I
should be found to differ from other travelers.
Cape-Town is generally described as a clean and neat place. With all due
deference, I must dissent widely from this opinion. All the streets, for
instance, are unpaved, and are, moreover, half filled with rubbish, swept
from the shops and warehouses, until some friendly shower carries it
away. Undoubtedly the town is regularly built, with broad streets, laid
out at right angles to each other; but as almost every person of property
resides in the country, few handsome dwelling-houses are to be met
with—and by far the greater number are in the Dutch style. Here, however,
as every where else where the English have obtained firm footing,
improvements are very apparent; and, doubtless, now that the colony has
obtained its own Legislature, such improvements will become still more
visible.
No one can be at Cape-Town for a single day without being struck by the
infinite variety of the human race encountered in the streets: Indians,
Chinese, Malays, Caffres, Bechuanas, Hottentots, Creoles, “Afrikanders,”
half-castes of many kinds, negroes of every variety from the east and
west coasts of Africa, and Europeans of all countries, form the motley
population of the place.
[Illustration: MALAY.]
Of all these, with the exception of the Europeans, the Malays are
by far the most conspicuous and important. They comprise, indeed,
no inconsiderable portion of the inhabitants, and are, moreover,
distinguished for their industry and sobriety. Many of them are
exceedingly well off, and, not unfrequently, keep their carriages and
horses. They profess the Mohammedan religion, and have their own clergy
and places of worship. Two thirds of the week they work hard, and devote
the remainder to pleasure, spending much of their time and money on their
dress, more especially the women. These latter seldom have any covering
for the head; but the men tie round it a red handkerchief, over which
they wear an enormous umbrella-shaped straw hat, admirably adapted to
ward off the sun’s rays, but useless and inconvenient in windy weather.
The Malays are usually very honest; but, strange to relate, on a certain
day of the year they exert their ingenuity in purloining their neighbors’
poultry, and, Spartan-like, do not consider this dishonorable, provided
they are not detected in the fact:
“To be _taken_, to be _seen_,
_These_ have crimes accounted been.”
To be at Cape-Town, without ascending the far-famed Table Mountain,
was, of course, not to be thought of. The undertaking, however, is not
altogether without danger. On the side of the town, access to the summit
is only practicable on foot, and that by a narrow and slippery path; but
on the opposite side the Table may be gained on horseback, though with
some difficulty. The whole mountain side, moreover, is intersected by
deep and numerous ravines, which are rendered more dangerous by the dense
fogs that, at certain seasons of the year, arise suddenly from the sea.
One fine afternoon I had unconsciously approached the foot of the
mountain, and the top looked so near and inviting, that, though the sun
was fast sinking, I determined to make the ascent. At the very outset I
lost the road; but, having been all my life a mountain-climber, I pushed
boldly forward. The task, however, proved more difficult than I expected,
and the sun’s broad disk had already touched the horizon when I reached
the summit. Nevertheless, the magnificent panorama that now lay spread
before me amply rewarded me for my trouble. It was, however, only for a
very short time that I could enjoy the beautiful scene; darkness was
rapidly encroaching over the valley below; and as in these regions there
is but one step from light to darkness, I was compelled to commence
the descent without a moment’s delay. I confess that this was not done
without some apprehension; for, what with the quick-coming night, and
the terrible ravines that lay yawning beneath my feet, the task was any
thing but agreeable. I found it necessary for safety to take off my
boots, which I fastened to my waist; and at length, after much exertion,
with hands torn, and trowsers almost in rags, I arrived late in the
evening at our hotel, where they had begun to entertain some doubt of my
safety. As a proof that my fears were not altogether groundless, a short
time before this, a young man, who was wandering about the mountain in
broad daylight, missed his footing, was precipitated down its sides, and
brought in the next day a mutilated corpse.
When Europeans first arrived in the Cape Colony, it would appear that
almost all the larger quadrupeds indigenous to Southern Africa existed in
the neighborhood of Table Mountain. A curious anecdote is preserved in
the archives of Cape-Town relating to the death of a rhinoceros, which,
for its quaintness and originality, is perhaps worthy of record.
Once upon a time—so runs the legend—some laborers employed in a field
discovered a huge rhinoceros immovably fixed in the quicksands of the
salt river which is within a mile of the town. The alarm being given, a
number of country people, armed with such weapons as were at hand, rushed
to the spot with an intention of dispatching the monster. Its appearance,
however, was so formidable, that they deemed it advisable to open their
battery at a most respectful distance. But, seeing that all the animal’s
efforts to extricate itself were fruitless, the men gradually grew
more courageous, and approached much nearer. Still, whether from the
inefficiency of their weapons, or want of skill, they were unable to make
any impression on the tough and almost impenetrable hide of the beast.
At length they began to despair, and it was a question if they should not
beat a retreat; when an individual, more sagacious than the rest, stepped
forward, and suggested that a hole should be cut in the animal’s hide, by
which means easy access might be had to its vitals, and they could then
destroy it at their leisure! The happy device was loudly applauded; and
though, I believe, the tale ends here, it may be fairly concluded that,
after such an excellent recommendation, success could not but crown their
endeavors.
We had now been at Cape-Town somewhat less than a week, and had already
added considerably to the stock of articles of exchange, provisions, and
other necessaries for our journey. To convey the immense quantity of
luggage, we provided ourselves with two gigantic wagons, each represented
to hold three or four thousand pounds’ weight, together with a sort of
cart[2] for ourselves.
Mr. Galton bought also nine excellent mules, which could be used either
for draft or packing; two riding horses; and, in addition to these, he
secured about half a dozen dogs, which, if the truth be told, were of a
somewhat mongrel description.
Mr. Galton also engaged the needful people to accompany us on our
travels, such as wagon-drivers, herdsmen, cooks, &c., in all amounting to
seven individuals.
Our preparations being now complete, we were about to set out on our
journey, when, to our dismay, we received information which entirely
overthrew our plans. It was reported to us that the Boers on the
Trans-Vaal River (the very line of country we purposed taking) had
lately turned back several traders and travelers who were on their
way northward, and had, moreover, threatened to kill any person who
should attempt to pass through their territories with the intention of
penetrating to Lake Ngami. This intelligence being equally unexpected
and unwelcome, we were at a loss on what to decide. On asking the
opinion of the Governor of the Cape, Sir Harry Smith, to whose kindness
and hospitality we were, on several occasions, indebted, he strongly
dissuaded us from attempting the route in question. “The Boers,” he said,
“are determined men; and, although I have no fear for the safety of your
lives, they will assuredly rob you of all your goods and cattle, and thus
prevent your proceeding farther.” The counsel given us by his excellency
settled the point. We were, however, determined not to be idle; but it
was by no means easy to decide on what course to pursue. As the whole
of the interior, by which a passage could be obtained to the lake, was
either occupied by the Boers, or served as their hunting-ground, we
were compelled to choose between the eastern and western coasts. The
former of these, however, was well known to be infected by fevers fatal
to Europeans; while the latter presented, for a considerable distance
northward, nothing but a sandy shore, destitute of fresh water and
vegetation. The country intervening between the western coast and the
lake, moreover, was represented as very unhealthy.
While in this state of uncertainty, we made the acquaintance of a Mr.
M⸺, who lately had an establishment at Walfisch Bay, on the west coast
of Africa, about seven hundred geographical miles north of the Cape.
He strongly recommended us to select this place as the starting-point
for our journey into the interior, which opinion was confirmed by some
missionaries whom we met in Cape-Town, and who had a settlement in the
neighborhood of the bay in question.
This route was ultimately adopted by us; but, as vessels only frequented
Walfisch Bay once or twice in the course of every two years, Mr. Galton
at once chartered a small schooner, named the _Foam_, the sixth part of
the expense of which was defrayed by the missionaries referred to, who
were anxious not only to forward some supplies, but to obtain a passage
for a young member of their society, the Rev. Mr. Schöneberg, who was
about proceeding on a mission of peace and good-will into Damara-land.
As our plans were now so entirely changed, and as we were about to travel
through an almost unknown region, we thought it expedient to disencumber
ourselves of whatever could in any way be spared. We left, accordingly,
at the Cape, among other things, two of our boats; taking with us,
however, the other, a mackintosh punt, as being light and portable,
hoping some day or other to see her floating on the waters of the Ngami.
Our arrangements being finished, and the goods, &c., shipped, we unfurled
our sails on the 7th of August, and bade farewell to Cape-Town, where,
during our short stay, we had experienced much kindness and hospitality.