SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.
First Visit--Appearance of the Country--Scenery--Lovely
Isles--Turtle--Method of Securing their Eggs--Their
Enemies--Fish--The Dugong--Method of Capturing them--Graves
of Englishmen at Po Point--First Evening in Borneo--A
Welcome to the Rajah--Boats--Salute and Manning
Yards--The Muaratabas Entrance--The River--The Town of
Kuching--Sunset--Arrival--A noisy Procession--Extent of
Sarawak--A well-watered Country--The Rejang--Extent of fertile
Soil adapted to Sugar--Its Inhabitants--Different Races and
Tribes--Population--Kuching, the Capital--Increase--Trade--Sago
districts--Cotton--Seed sent by the Cotton Supply
Association--Imported Labour required--Increased
Production--Inferior Cultivation--Soil adapted to most Tropical
Productions--Water communication--Minerals--Coal, Antimony, and
Gold--Indications of other Minerals--Former Condition of the
Country--Difficulties of Management--Forced Trade--Comfortable
Position of the Dayaks--Influence of New System on the
Malays--Distant Voyages--Remarkable Honesty--Anecdote--System
of Government--An Unteachable Chief--Sons of Patinggi
Ali--Their Good Conduct--Effect of Associating the Natives
in the Government--The System introduced into all the
Dependencies--Effect of Sir James Brooke’s Government--Anecdote
of an old Chief--Gradual Development--Necessity for Support--The
Chinese an Industrious and Saving Nation--Soundness in the
System of Government--England with a Chinese Colony--Future
of Borneo--Chinese amalgamate with Native Population--Female
Emigration from China--Administration of Justice--The Sarawak
Courts--Character of the Malays.
[Illustration:
T. Picken, lith.
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.
Day & Son, Lith^{rs} to the Queen.
GOVERNMENT HOUSE __ SARAWAK 1860.]
Sarawak and its dependencies next claim my attention, and I will
give an account of my first visit to that place, as the notes I then
made are more likely to present a true picture than any written
subsequently. On August 31, 1848, we came in sight of Borneo; it
was a dull and misty day, and the shores were not clearly visible, but
the next morning it was bright and showed us in all its perfection the
lovely country that skirts the shore between Datu and Sipang points.
At first it appeared a confused mass of mountains, but the eye soon
began to distinguish its varied features. The massive and lofty range
of Poé bounded the scene to the westward, while the Matang occupied the
centre of the picture, and the peak of Santubong and the Sipang hills
completed it to the eastward. Between these are many lower ranges, and
beyond could be seen various ridges and single mountains forming a
background.
Though these high lands first attract the eye, yet it rests with
greater pleasure on the beautiful valleys between, and none more
beautiful than that at the foot of the Poé mountains, which stretches
as far as the eye can reach, and imperceptibly mingles with the
neighbouring hills. Taken as a whole, it is a very beautiful bay,
and lovely are the isles scattered about it. Every traveller is
enthusiastic about the appearance of these little gems, which rise
verdant from the water’s edge to the very summit; or rendered more
bright by a narrow beach of shining yellow sand that skirts the shores.
The first two are called Talang Talang, and on these are collected
the turtles’ eggs. From the larger a broad sandy flat extends to the
southward, and on this, during the prevalence of the south-west monsoon
the turtles lay their eggs. There are men on the look-out near, and as
soon as the animals have dug holes, deposited the eggs, and carefully
covered them over, the watchers stick little flags in the sand to
mark the spots. In the morning they open them out and procure immense
supplies of these eggs, which are exported to all the neighbouring
countries. Though the turtles do occasionally frequent the surrounding
isles, it is only here that they are plentiful.
The Malays are eager in the search, yet fortunately very many nests
escape their rapacity. But the dangers to the turtle do not end here:
when the little things burst up from the sand, they find enemies in
every direction. The voracious kites soaring above pounce on their
defenceless prey, even the land crab seizes them and bears them away,
and when the remainder escape to the water, hundreds of sharks and
other voracious fish are there to devour them; it is astonishing that
so many elude their enemies. A turtle’s egg tastes to me like a stale
and fishy duck’s egg. The sandy beaches of these isles are always to
the southward, as they are not exposed to the fierce blasts of the
north-east monsoon. The next islets near the Santubong entrance of the
Sarawak river, are Sampadien and the two Satangs. On all are at present
extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees, which form a marked contrast to
the neighbouring jungle.
It is very curious that the fish should frequent this bay so very
irregularly. Some years the supplies are ample, at other seasons it
scarcely pays to search for them. The dugong, called by the Malays
duyong, is occasionally secured off the small islands in this bay;
there is a famous fisherman in Sarawak, named Pa Sipi, who is expert
in all accomplishments appertaining to his craft, and I have heard the
natives say that when a duyong is seen, he used cautiously to approach
it, and being always the foremost man, he hurled his fishing spear at
it, and very shortly after, if he were obliged to let go his hold of
the weapon, the animal would rise again to the surface. The fishing
spear is called a sarampang, and is usually made with a treble-pronged
iron point, fitted loosely into the end of the spear, and secured by a
stout lashing of rattans to the wood. When the iron has entered into
the animal, it comes loose from the shaft of the spear, which is then
only held to it by the rattan rope, and it would be impossible for an
animal thus encumbered to escape far. Pa Sipi brought us once a very
fine duyong, which measured nearly eight feet in length, and its flesh
tasted very much like coarse beef.
We moved along under easy sail, and anchored near the Muaratabas
entrance of the Sarawak river. The land here is very bold, particularly
Sipang and Po points.
We sent a boat up the Santubong as we passed the entrance, to give
notice at the town of our arrival, and in the evening we landed for
a walk in a deep nook to the westward of Point Po; here, just above
the sandy beach, were the graves of several Englishmen, among others
of Lieutenant Mathews, of H.M.S. _Iris_: a simple granite stone
marked the spot; the wild pigs, however, had desecrated the graves and
overturned the tablet; so the latter was subsequently removed to the
church-yard in Sarawak. We amused ourselves about the edges of the
forest in searching for a good watering-place. To me this evening was
inexpressibly delightful, as I wandered about this quiet pretty spot,
and thought how agreeable an introduction it was to Bornean life. After
dark we waded to our boats, and the crews enlivened the evening by
singing in chorus till we neared the ship. Twenty deep voices sounded
well over this still and starlit sea. For the first time I saw some
Lingga Dayaks to-day, and as they happened to be dressed as Malays, my
first impression was that it would be difficult to distinguish between
them.
About ten o’clock the following morning native war-boats commenced
issuing from the Muaratabas, and sailing towards us. They were the
Sarawak people come to welcome back their English rajah. There were
twenty long light war prahus with tapering masts and lateen sails,
ornamented with flags and streamers, and all the chiefs and crews were
dressed in gala costume. The principal men came on board, and it was
interesting to observe the warmth they showed to their adopted chief.
Some of the Sarawak men were striking-looking, but the nobles from the
capital were the most insignificant creatures I had ever seen; they
were only remarkable for the gold lace with which their jackets were
profusely ornamented, and that they were very gentlemanly, and more
polished in manner than their provincial neighbours.
About one o’clock Sir James Brooke left the _Meander_ under a
salute, and the manning of the yards; the latter has always a very
pretty effect, and rather surprised our native visitors. When the
firing was over, the blue jackets gave three hearty cheers, and
swarmed down the rigging. Now was the turn of the war-boats, and they
kept up a desultory fire for an hour.
The Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river is a very fine one, and
has a depth of three fathoms and a half at the very lowest water at
spring tides; the contrast of the banks is striking: to the right a
high bold shore and pretty isolated hills; to the left a low flat plain
with mountains showing in the distance.
We pulled up with the flood tide, our way being enlivened by
races between the native prahus, but the frigate’s barge had no
chance against them; near the entrance is a rock that marks the
watering-place; it was here that Sir James made his first acquaintance
with the Dayak pirates, who attacked a Malay prahu under the very guns
of the _Royalist_.
With few exceptions the banks of the Sarawak river are uninteresting;
for many miles nothing but swampy ground and low jungle of mangrove
trees and nipa palms, with occasional glimpses of distant mountains.
Near the town, however, it improves, the land becoming dry and bearing
heavy jungle; between the mouth and the town there were only a few
fishing huts, and not a sign of cultivation. Evening was closing in
as we approached Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, and the sun set
brilliantly behind the Matang range, gilding as it disappeared as wild
and picturesque a scene as I had ever witnessed. Our barge led the way
up the broad reach, and was followed by the twenty war prahus, and
dozens of Dayak and other boats that had joined the procession:--not a
decorous Lord Mayor’s pull on the river, but in the utmost confusion,
amid gun-firing, gong-beating, racing, wild and frantic yells of
delight, shouts of laughter and of anger, as one prahu ran into another
in their eagerness to be in the foremost rank. As we rounded the last
point we were surprised to find the whole town brilliantly illuminated,
and as all the houses are built on the water’s edge, which reflected
back the lights above, the effect was very fine. Crowds were assembled
to witness our arrival, and yell, and answering yell, increased the
confusion. Having described my first arrival at Sarawak, I will proceed
to give a short account of its present position.
Sarawak, including its dependencies, extends from Cape Datu to Kidorong
Point, a coast line of about three hundred miles, and presents every
variety of surface, from the low fertile soil skirting the river’s
banks to the lofty mountains which rise in every direction throughout
the various districts.
It is one of the best watered countries in the world, possessing
several rivers of the first class, as the Rejang, the Sarawak, and the
Batang Lupar; and many of the second, as the Samarahan, the Sadong, the
Seribas, the Kalaka, the Egan, a branch of the Rejang, and the Bintulu;
rivers of the third class are also numerous, as the Lundu, the Mato,
the Oya, and the Muka.
The last three, though small, are still very important, as they run
through the great sago-producing districts, possessing forests of that
palm, which are as yet perfectly unexplored, having only lately been
ceded to Sarawak.
The finest river, however, is the Rejang, which has a deep entrance,
not less than five fathoms at high water, and, when inside the
bar, never carries less, for above one hundred and thirty miles. A
geographical description of the country, however, is not necessary,
as I have in previous chapters given an account of the principal
districts, nearly all of which I visited in the course of my tours.
Sarawak possesses an immense extent of fertile soil, a very large
amount being composed of alluvial deposit stretching for miles on
either side of the banks of the Samarahan, the Sadong, the Batang
Lupar, and nearly all the rivers before named.
Much of the soil is especially adapted for sugar cultivation, being
of a similar quality to that on the banks of the Pontianak, which I
have been informed by Dutch officers and planters has been found far
superior for sugar cultivation to the best in Java. In fact, nothing
but the want of labour has prevented the extensive cultivation of
the cane in the Pontianak districts: Chinese could be introduced
with facility, but these people have already given the Dutch so much
trouble, as to render the Netherlands government very jealous of any
increase in their numbers.
But before entering on the subject of products, I must briefly
enumerate the various tribes speaking different languages who are now
subject to Sarawak.
The Malays are scattered along the banks of almost every river and
creek, but the largest number is assembled at the capital, Kuching.
The Chinese, of whom I shall treat hereafter, are principally found
in Sarawak, though a few hundreds are now working gold on the Batang
Lupar, and traders abound at every place where profit can be obtained.
The Indian races are represented by very few members.
The Land Dayaks occupy a portion of Lundu, with the entire interior of
Sarawak, Samarahan, and Sadong.
The Sea Dayaks include the Sibuyaus, who are scattered through the
various districts, and the inhabitants of the Batang Lupar, the
Seribas, Kalaka, and the branch streams on the left-hand bank of the
Rejang.
The Milanaus occupy the mouths of the Rejang, the Ova, the Muka, the
Bintulu, and various lesser streams.
The tattooed races, as the Kanowits, Pakatans, Punans, and others, live
towards the interior of the districts lying between the Rejang and the
Bintulu, and border on the Kayans, who occupy the Balui country as the
interior of the Bintulu and the Rejang is called.
All these groups of tribes speak separate languages, and each has also
various dialects.
It is very difficult to obtain even an approximate estimate of the
amount of population, but I will state it at the most moderate rate.
The home districts, as Lundu, Sarawak, Samarahan,
Sadong, and Sibuynu, may be reckoned at 80,000
The Sea Dayak districts, including Batang Lupar, Seribas,
Kalaka, and those on the left bank of the Rejang, at 120,000
The districts lying between Rejang Mouth and Bintulu 40,000
-------
Total 240,000
In stating these numbers I am convinced that I am very much underrating
them, as the more inquiries we make the thicker appears the population
of the Sea Dayak districts.
The capital of Sarawak is Kuching, and, considering the circumstances
of the country, the rise of this free port has been rapid. When Sir
James Brooke first reached the spot, there were few inhabitants except
the Malay rajahs and their followers, who subsequently for the most
part removed to Brunei, the residence of the sultan. I saw Kuching in
the year 1848, when it was but a small place, with few Chinese or Kling
shops, and perhaps not over 6,000 Malay inhabitants; there was little
trade, the native prahus were small, and I saw some few of them. The
jungle surrounded the town and hemmed in the houses, and the Chinese
gardeners had scarcely made an impression on the place. As confidence
was inspired, so the town increased, and now, including the outlying
parishes, its population numbers not less than 15,000.
The commerce of the place has kept pace with it, and from a rare
schooner finding its way over to return with a paltry cargo, the trade
has risen till an examination of the books convinced me that it was in
1860 above 250,000_l._ of exports and imports.
The articles constituting the exports are for the most part the produce
of the jungle; the principal exception is sago, which is imported
from the districts to the east of Cape Sirik, to be manufactured at
Kuching into the sago-pearl and flour of commerce. The trade in this
article has for many years been injured by the constant disturbances,
ending in a state of chronic civil war, which desolated the producing
districts. Now, however, that they have been ceded to Sarawak, and a
firm government established, a great development should take place in
this branch of trade.
An article which might become of great value is cotton: it is
cultivated among many of the tribes residing within the Sarawak
territories, particularly by the Dayaks of Seribas and Sakarang, who
manufacture from it a durable cloth. The Cotton Supply Association is
sending out some Egyptian seed, which, if it arrive in good condition,
may tend to increase the produce. I am convinced, however, that no
cultivation will have great success in Borneo which does not at first
depend on imported labour, and as China is near, the supply could be
easily and regularly obtained.
The amount of rice produced will also greatly depend on imported
labour; at present the natives but rarely export any, and during some
seasons scarcely produce sufficient for the consumption of the people.
There is one thing to be observed, however, that as the country is
becoming year by year more settled, the inhabitants in the same ratio
give greater attention to acquiring wealth. The Sea Dayaks are very
acquisitive, and would soon imitate the Chinese methods of cultivation.
I have elsewhere remarked that the agriculture to the north of
the capital is far superior to anything found in Sarawak or its
neighbourhood, and this has most probably arisen from the large number
of Chinese who formerly inhabited that country.
The use of the plough, the harrow, or the buffalo in cultivation is,
except by report, entirely unknown in Sarawak; the natives will, I
believe, be much surprised at the results produced by a good English
plough, which is about to be tried on some fields of sugar-cane in the
neighbourhood of Kuching, and it may do much good by showing them the
methods employed by other nations. At present the Malays and Dayaks use
no other instruments than a long chopper, an axe, and a pointed stick.
The soil and the varied heights on the hill-sides, would render
Sarawak a fine country for coffee; which grows freely, and so do
pepper, tapioca, arrowroot, and almost every product cultivated in the
neighbouring islands; but these things are not yet grown in sufficient
quantities to render them worth mentioning as articles of export. Of
the jungle produce I may name the principal: they are fine timber of
many varieties, gutta-percha, india-rubber, wax, and rattans, and the
last are to be obtained in the very greatest abundance and of the best
quality in the districts lately ceded by the sultan to the government
of Sarawak.
Sarawak has a very great advantage over many countries, having water
communication from the far interior, down to her coasts, and inner
channels communicating with many of the outlying districts.
The mineral products known to exist in sufficient quantities to be
worth working are not numerous; they are coal, antimony, and gold.
Coal seams have long been known to exist, but in situations that
necessitated a considerable outlay; within the last few months,
however, coal has been discovered close to the water’s edge in the
districts lately ceded, but I have not yet heard of the result of the
examinations which have just been made. Antimony of the best quality
can be procured in sufficient quantities to supply any demand, and a
new mine has been secured to the Sarawak government by the cession of
Bintulu.
Gold is only worked by the Chinese, who wash the surface earth in a way
which I will afterwards describe. No deep sinkings have been attempted,
nor has quartz yet been discovered in large quantities, and it is not
likely to be while nine-tenths of the country are still clothed with
forest.
Indications of many minerals exist, but until found in greater
quantities they are scarcely worth referring to, except to encourage
a careful examination of the mountain and hilly districts. Sufficient
silver has however been found to render it probable that a mine exists
not far from the Bidi antimony works. The Dutch beyond the border
are said to be working a copper mine to great profit; and in Sarawak
indications of that mineral, as well as of lead, have been several
times discovered: but no great importance can be attached to them
at present. Manganese and arsenic have been found in considerable
quantities, but they are not yet worked.
The most remarkable thing connected with Sarawak is the change which
has come over the aborigines; from all the accounts I could gather they
were twenty-five years ago in a much more miserable condition than the
Muruts and Bisayas in the neighbourhood of the capital. The country
was in a state of complete anarchy, and Malays were fighting against
Malays and Dayaks against Dayaks. Even before the civil war broke out
the condition of the latter was miserable in the extreme; they were
exposed to every exaction, their children were taken from them, their
villages attacked and often sacked by the Seribas and Sakarang, and
hunger approaching to famine added to their troubles.
Even when Sir James Brooke succeeded to the government and peace was
restored, it took years to eradicate the belief, founded on long
established practice, that the Dayaks were persons to be plundered by
every means. When it could not be done openly, it was carried on by a
system of forced trade. Sir James Brooke’s attention was constantly
directed to this subject, and he found that as long as the Malay chiefs
were paid their salaries by receiving half the rice-tax, some of them
had an excuse for continuing the old practice. I have mentioned the
tours of inspection undertaken under his direction by his nephew,
Captain Brooke; shortly after these were concluded a new system was
introduced, and the chiefs had their salaries paid to them in money.
Since which time few complaints have been made by the Dayaks.
As far as material comfort adds to the happiness of man, the Dayaks
have reason to be thankful: whatever they earn, they enjoy; a tax
of four shillings on every family is the amount levied on them by
government: after that is paid they are free from every exaction. Not
only have they the produce of their industry, but the wealth derived
from their forests of fruit-trees, a market for which can always be
found among the Chinese and Malays. Many of the caves likewise produce
the edible bird’s nest, which is another source of profit.
The Malays, however, have benefited equally with the Dayaks by the
change of system. Formerly the chiefs employed a crowd of relations and
followers to collect their taxes and to oppress the aborigines; and,
as at Brunei now, if the master asked for a bushel of rice, the man
demanded two more for himself. The system had a debasing influence on
all; no doubt many suffered a little by the change, but as a rule all
these men turned to legitimate trade, as soon as they found that to
oppress the Dayaks entailed fines and punishments.
The impetus given was great, trading prahus were built, and voyages
undertaken which their fathers had not thought of. Singapore, Java,
the Malay Peninsula, and even a portion of Sumatra were visited. This
brought wealth and increased activity, which was shown in the improved
dwellings, the larger prahus, the gayer dresses, and the amount of gold
ornaments that became common among their women.
There is one thing I must particularly mention, the remarkable honesty
shown by these traders in all their intercourse with Europeans. An
Englishman, who greatly facilitated their commercial transactions by
loans of money at a rate of interest which in the East was considered
remarkably moderate, told me that, in all his experience, he had
only found one Malay who attempted to cheat him. He never demanded
receipts, but simply made an entry in his book, and his loans with that
one exception were all repaid him.
He told me a story of a Malay trader that singularly illustrates their
character. The man borrowed a small sum and went on a voyage; in a
month he returned, stating he had lost both prahu and cargo, and asked
to be entrusted with double the amount of his former debt; it was
given him. Again he returned, having been wrecked close to the mouth
of the river. He came to this Englishman and clearly explained his
misfortune, but added--“You know I am an honest man, disasters cannot
always happen to me, lend me sufficient to go on another voyage, and I
will repay all I owe you.” My informant said he hesitated, but at last
lent him the whole amount demanded. The trader was away three months,
and his smiling face, when he came back to his creditor, showed he had
been successful; he paid off the principal portion of the debt, and
afterwards cleared off the remainder, and was, when I heard the story,
one of the most flourishing traders in Sarawak. I thought the anecdote
was honourable to both, and illustrates the kindly feeling that exists
in that country between the European and native.
This confidence, however, was the growth of some years, and the result
of the system of government which I will now describe. In treating of
the capital, I have shown the practice established there. In all the
former dependencies of Brunei there were local chiefs who administered
the internal affairs of their own districts. In Sarawak there were
originally three, and that number Sir James Brooke continued in
their employment, and permitted and encouraged them to take part in
everything connected with the government of the country, obtaining
their consent to the imposition of any new tax or change in the system
of levying the old, consulting them on all occasions and allowing their
local knowledge to guide him in those things with which they were
necessarily better acquainted than he could possibly be.
It was not to be expected that his teaching and influence should
suddenly change these men, accustomed to almost uncontrolled sway,
into just and beneficent rulers, and he failed in moulding the datu
patiñggi, the principal chief. As long as Sir James Brooke was himself
present in Sarawak, he could keep him tolerably straight; but no amount
of liberality could prevent him oppressing the Dayaks on every possible
occasion. His rapacity increasing, he took bribes in his administration
of justice, and it was at last found necessary to remove him. The third
chief behaved much better, and the second, patiñggi Ali, was killed
during one of Captain Keppel’s expeditions.
The last named left many sons, two of whom would have adorned any
situation in life; the eldest, the late bandhar of Sarawak, was a kind,
just, and good man, respected in his public capacity, and beloved in
all social intercourse: his only fault was, a certain want of decision,
partly caused by a rapid consumption that carried him off about two
years since. His next brother succeeded him, and appears to have all
his brother’s good qualities, with remarkable firmness of character.
In fact, a generation is springing up, with new ideas and more
enlarged views, who appear to appreciate the working of their present
government, and have a pride in being connected with it.
By associating these men in the administration, and thus educating
them in political life, and by setting the example of a great equality
in social intercourse, Sir James Brooke laid the foundation of a
government which stood a shock that many of his best friends expected
would prove fatal. I mean the Chinese insurrection. None of the
predicted results have followed. Trade and revenue have both actually
increased, and a much better system of management has been introduced.
The example set in the capital is followed in all the dependent
districts, and the local rulers are always associated with the European
in the government. The effect has been to prevent any jealousy arising;
and the contempt of all natives, which appears a part of our creed
in many portions of our empire, is not felt in Sarawak. Nothing
appears more striking to those who have resided long in Sarawak than
the extraordinary change which appears to have been effected in the
character of the people, and also in that of individuals. There is no
doubt that Sir James Brooke was working in soil naturally good, or
these results could not have taken place, but yet when we know the
previous history of men, how lawless and savage they were, and yet
find they have conducted themselves in an exemplary manner for twenty
years, the whole circumstances appear surprising.
I will tell an anecdote of one of the very oldest of the chiefs, to
show the apparently stubborn materials which had to be moulded. The
man relating the story himself, said that about thirty-five years
ago he was cruising near Datu Point when he observed a small trading
boat passing out at sea. He immediately gave chase, and when near her
noticed the crew were all armed, and preparing to defend themselves,
so his own followers advised him to sheer off, but he made them push
alongside, and springing on board the trading prahu with a drawn kris
so effectually alarmed the hostile crew that they all ran below. There
were six of them, but he killed them all, and added, one only did he
pity, as in their distress five called on their mothers, but one only
begged mercy of God. And yet that man has behaved well for the last
twenty-five years, and much better, in my opinion, than many others of
far greater pretensions. It never appears to strike him that he had
committed a bloodthirsty and wicked action, perhaps he considered that
to conceal his piratical act any means were justifiable; but however
that may be, he has completely changed his conduct, has been faithful
under great temptations, and has always proved himself a brave and
trustworthy man since a regular government has been established in
Sarawak.
Few would have undertaken the responsibility of ruling a country
with such materials, but to render the task easier, there were some
excellent men to leven the multitude, and a retired pirate is
generally a good servant, if you can turn the energies that led him to
a roving life into a legitimate channel.
It is obvious, however, that where a government depends for its
stability on the individual character of its officers, and where a
change in the system may be introduced by the head of the government
not following in the footsteps of his predecessors, men will not risk
their capital in the development of the country.
I have watched the gradual development of Sarawak with the greatest
interest; I have seen districts once devoted to anarchy restored
to prosperity and peace by the simple support of the orderly part
of the population by a government acting with justice, and it is
not surprising that all its neighbours appeal to it, when their own
countrymen are seen to exercise so great an influence in its councils.
The experiment so happily begun might be carried on with great results,
had the Sarawak government more material force to back it. At present
nine-tenths of the country are forest; I believe the largest portion of
that may be cultivated with great success, but population is wanting.
There is but one people who can develope the islands of the Eastern
Archipelago, and they are the Chinese.
They are a most industrious and saving nation, and yet liberal in their
households, and free in their personal expenses. They are the only
people to support an European government, as they are the only Asiatics
who will pay a good revenue. In Sarawak there are not above 3,000
Chinese, and yet they pay in indirect taxes more than the quarter of a
million of Malays and Dayaks pay altogether. There is room within the
Sarawak territories for half a million of Chinese cultivators, without
in any way inconveniencing the other inhabitants; and these Chinese
could pay without feeling the pressure 2_l._ a head in indirect
taxes: as those levied on opium, spirits, tobacco, and other articles.
There must be soundness in the system pursued in Sarawak, or it could
not have stood alone for so many years, exposed as it has been to
successive storms. A similar, or a modified system, supported by our
national power, would produce great results. No one can judge of the
consuming power of the Chinese abroad, by the Chinese in their own
country. Abroad he clothes himself in English cloth, he uses English
iron; he sometimes takes to our crockery; he when well off drinks our
beer, and is especially partial to our biscuits. He does nothing in a
niggardly spirit, but, as I have said, is liberal in his household.
I believe if England were to try the experiment of a Chinese colony,
where they had room to devote themselves to agriculture, to mining,
and to commerce, the effects would be as great in proportion as those
displayed in our Australian colonies. The Indian Isles are not far
distant from China, and emigrants from them are always ready to leave
on the slightest temptation.
I have lived so many years in the Archipelago that I hope my
information may be found correct. I certainly expect much from the
future of Borneo, if the present experiment should be aided or
adopted, as it possesses the elements of wealth and prosperity, and
can obtain what is essential to success, a numerous and industrious
population.
The Chinese have no difficulty in amalgamating with the native
inhabitants, and to a certain extent can always obtain wives, as
Borneo, like England, appears to possess a redundant female population.
The men are, of course, exposed to many more dangers than the women,
and these latter are so fond of their own homes that they seldom remove
far from their parents. But now there appears to be no difficulty in
procuring female emigrants, and if the present rebellion continue
to desolate China we might remove all the inhabitants of a village
together. I have heard men say that they have seen as much misery in
some of the provinces of that vast empire as they saw in Ireland during
the famine, and when that is the case, there will be no difficulty in
inducing these people to emigrate. A calculation has been made that,
if Borneo were well cultivated, it would suffice for the support of a
hundred millions of Chinese.
The administration of justice is a subject of vital importance in all
countries, but especially so in an Asiatic and a mixed population. The
simple forms adopted in Sarawak are admirably suited to the country,
and the care displayed in inquiries has won the confidence of the
people. There are three courts established in Sarawak: a general
court, a police court, and a native religious court. The last has
charge of all cases in which a reference is required to the laws of
the Koran, as in marriages and divorces; an appeal lies, however, in
certain cases to the general court. Ten years ago the native judges
gave no satisfaction to the people and inspired no confidence, as it
was known the principal chief took bribes, but since his removal, it
is rare indeed to hear of a decision giving dissatisfaction, as both
the late bandhar and his brother, the present bandhar, really take a
pride in their court, and look into the cases. They also regularly
attend the general court, and have thus been educated by the example
set by the English magistrates of the most patient investigation. The
general court takes cognizance of all the principal cases both civil
and criminal, and in serious trials there is a kind of jury of the
principal English and native inhabitants.
Cheap, and above all, speedy justice is what is required in the East,
where they never can understand our wearisome forms. It reminds me
of the Malay tried for murder in one of our English courts; he was
asked the question, Guilty or Not guilty, and answered immediately,
Guilty. He was advised to withdraw it and plead not guilty, but he
steadily refused, saying, “Why should I plead not guilty, when I know I
committed the murder; when you all know that as well as I, and mean to
hang me, so don’t make a long fuss about it.” They very often confess
even the most heinous crimes. The police court has cognizance of the
same cases as would come before similar courts elsewhere, with a little
mixture of the county court.
The Malays, except the followers of the Brunei nobles, are found on the
whole to be very truthful, faithful to their relatives, and devotedly
attached to their children. Remarkably free from crimes, and when they
commit them it is generally from jealousy. Brave when well led, they
inspire confidence in their commanders; highly sensitive to dishonour,
and tenacious as to the conduct of their countrymen towards them,
and remarkably polite in their manners, they render agreeable all
intercourse with them. Malays are generally accused of great idleness;
in one sense they deserve it; they do not like continuous work, but
they do enough to support themselves and families in comfort, and real
poverty is unknown among them. No relative is abandoned because he is
poor, or because an injury or an illness may have incapacitated him for
work. I like the Malays, although I must allow that I became weary of
having only them with whom to associate.
Sarawak appears to the natives of the western coast of Borneo what an
oasis must be to the wandering Arab, and it is often visited by the
people of the neighbouring countries to examine as a sort of curiosity.
A party of Bugau Dayaks from the upper Kapuas once arrived in Kuching
after fifteen days’ journey, merely to discover whether or not it
were true that the Dayaks of Sarawak were living in comfort; but a
more curious incident was the arrival of a chief from the Natunas to
lay his case before the Sarawak government. A near relative of the
Sultan of Linggin had yearly visited that group, which was subject to
his authority, under the pretence of collecting taxes, but instead of
confining himself to that, commenced a system of gross extortion. The
natives submitted patiently, but not content with that, he seized
their young girls, and when his passions were satisfied, sent them
again ashore, and forbad them to marry, under the pretence that they
must consider themselves in future as his concubines.
At last he proceeded so far as, during a chiefs absence, to take up
his residence in his house and to seize on his wife and family. On
the orang kaya’s return, he was received with shots from his own
batteries. His wife, evading the watch kept on her, rejoined him;
but after vainly endeavouring to recover the rest of his family, he
brought his complaints to Sarawak. As the Sultan of Linggin was under
the suzerainty of the Dutch, it was impossible to interfere actively
in their defence; but as there was no doubt of the truth of these
representations, as they merely confirmed the accounts which had been
previously received from the officers of one of our vessels which
had surveyed that group, the whole case was laid before the Dutch
authorities at Rhio, with an apology for the apparent interference in
their affairs; but although naturally disposed to think that there was
much exaggeration in the native accounts, they acted promptly, sent a
vessel of war to the Natunas, whose captain fully confirmed the report
forwarded, and giving the young noble an order to restore all his
plunder, and come on board within an hour, they set sail with him to
one of the fortresses to the eastward, where he remained several years.
This energetic action had a most beneficial effect, and, although many
years have passed since, I have not heard of any complaints from the
inhabitants of that very lovely group.
The relatives of the Sultan of Linggin acted in the same way as the
Bornean nobles, who really appear to be convinced that they have a
right to treat the poorer natives as they please, and do not understand
any other method, but Makota’s cruel nature delighted in it for its
sake. He used to say, “I know that the system of government pursued
in Sarawak is the right system, and that in the end we should obtain
much more from them by treating them kindly; but I have been accustomed
all my life to oppress them, and it affords me unmixed satisfaction
to get even their cooking-pots from them;” and he chuckled over the
remembrance.
As the Malays increase in wealth, they are gradually taking more to
the fashion of making pilgrimages to Mecca, though the sufferings
they undergo in the crowded ships are almost equal to those endured
in the middle passage. Some of the Arab ships are so crammed, that
each pilgrim is only allowed sufficient space for a small mat on the
deck, and there he remains during the whole voyage, except when he
cooks his meals. One year, of the twelve who started from Sarawak on
the pilgrimage, but five returned, though now it is not so fatal, as
our authorities in the east are preventing the over-crowding of those
vessels which leave our ports.
They have a custom in Sarawak which is rather curious: to insure good
hair to their girls, they throw gold dust on it, and then send the
child out among the crowd, who with scissors endeavour to snip out the
precious metal.
It has often been noticed that the Malay language is very concise, and
as a proof, I have heard the following anecdote related. I have not
yet seen it in print, though it may be. An English judge was condemning
a man to death for a barbarous murder, and earnestly dwelling on
the dreadful nature of the crime, he lengthened his discourse to
twenty minutes. Then turning to the court interpreter he told him to
translate what he had said into Malay. The official looked sternly at
the prisoner, and addressed him thus: “The judge says you are a very
wicked man; you have committed a great crime, therefore you must be
hung. Sudah (I have done),” and then quietly retired to his place, to
the astonishment of the judge, who could not comprehend how his learned
and affecting discourse had been so briefly translated; he could only
ejaculate, “Certainly the Malay is the most epigrammatic language.”
As I am concluding this chapter with miscellaneous remarks, I will
tell a short anecdote told me by a Spaniard of a Balignini pirate.
After the expedition from Manilla, in 1848, had captured the islands
of Tonquil and Balignini, they removed most of the prisoners to an
island to the north; among others, there was the wife and children of
a well known buccaneer, who had been absent on a cruise during the
attack, and returning home, found his house burnt and his family gone.
He immediately went to Samboañgan and surrendered to the authorities,
saying he was tired of the wandering life he had led, and was anxious
to live as a quiet agriculturist with his wife. The governor trusting
his story, sent him to the north, where he joined his family, and set
to work with great energy cultivating the soil; the authorities kept
a strict watch over him, knowing his enterprising character, but
just before the rice harvest was ready to be gathered, they became
less vigilant, as they thought no one would abandon the result of a
year’s labour; but at dead of night, with a few companions to whom he
had imparted his secret, he fled with his family to the shore, where,
surprising a boat, he pulled off to his old haunts and reached them in
safety.
I have already treated of the Land and Sea Dayaks, and will not dwell
further on the subject, but give a short account of the Chinese on the
North-west coast of Borneo.