THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.
FIRST VISIT.
Picturesque Islands--Balambañgan--An old English
Settlement--Large Monkeys--Optical Illusions--Flights
of Birds--The Curlew--The way we shot them in
Sarawak--Game--Banguey--Mali Wali--Cleared Hills--Fine
Water--Sweet-smelling Jasmine--Cagayan Sulu--Intercourse
with the Inhabitants--Appearance of the Country--Lovely
Scenery--Market--Inhabitants--Insolent Traders--The
Crater Harbour--Wall of Evergreen--Inner Lake--Climb the
Cliff--Scenery--Alligators numerous--Sulu--Appearance
from the Ship--Sugh, the Capital--Mr. Wyndham--The
Watering-place--Suspicious Natives--Fugitives from
Balignini--Reports--A Market--The Mountaineers civil--Walk to
the Palace--The Stockades--Armed Crowd--Audience Hall--Absurd
Reports--The Sultan and his Nobles--Dress--Politeness
of the Sultan--Return to the Ship--Datu Daniel--The
Racecourse--Effect of Dutch Shot--Tulyan Bay--Alarm of
Villagers--Sulu Government--Laws--Feuds--The Mahomedan and the
Pork--Population--Fighting-men--Slave Market--Dignified carriage
of the Nobles--Dress--The Balignini--Dutch Attack--Appearance of
the Country--Good Position of Island--Tulyan--Basilan--Numerous
Islets--Samboañgan--Spanish Convict Settlement--Description of
Country--Fort--Town--Shops--The Church--The Men--The Women--The
Corner Shop--A Ball--Dancing difficult--Waltzes--Supplies at
Samboañgan--A lonely Grave.
During all the voyages I have made, I have never beheld islands so
picturesque as those scattered over the surface of the Sulu Seas,
or whose inhabitants more merited notice. I will therefore give a
short account of the visits I made thither, before the attacks of
the Spanish forces had altered the ancient state of affairs. I have
already delineated the north-west coast, and will therefore commence
my description from the island of Balambañgan, to the north of Maludu
Bay, which must always be of some interest to Englishmen from our two
unsuccessful attempts to form a settlement there.
We dropped anchor off Balambañgan, which at night appears a low wooded
island. I visited it in the morning in a cutter, and vainly sought any
fresh traces of human beings, though we found some old deserted huts
of the fishermen who frequent this shore for tripang. Continuing our
explorations, we noticed something moving along the beach, and there
were various conjectures among our party, some affirming it to be a
buffalo, others a man; I never was more deceived in my own estimate of
the size of an animal, as it proved to be a large monkey, which with
its companions was seeking shell-fish on the sands; it was certainly
very large, but not of such dimensions as to warrant its being compared
to a bull, but there appeared to be some optical illusion caused by its
looming over the water.
Pursuing our path along the beach, the seamen at last thought they saw
houses among the trees, but on landing we found we were again deceived
by a row of white rocks, prettily overhung with creepers. Though no
traces of inhabitants were to be found, yet animal life was well
represented, innumerable monkeys swarmed at the edge of the jungle,
while flights of birds of every kind kept rising before us. I never
saw more monstrous pelicans, but after having been so deceived by the
monkeys, I must not attempt to estimate their height. The best birds,
however, for culinary purposes, were the curlews, some of which are as
large as small fowls: unfortunately we were not provided with shot, and
ball fell harmlessly among them.
They are wary birds, but may yet be readily circumvented. There is a
spot at the entrance of one of the minor branches of the Sarawak river,
where the curlews congregate in thousands, but only at the height of
spring-tides can you get profitable shots at them. There are broad
sands there, and the birds spread over them to feed; by degrees the
rising waters gradually press them back towards the wooded shore; and
as beach after beach is covered, they fly screaming above in wide
circles, gradually narrowing till they all settle on the spot near
which the sportsmen lie concealed, either behind scattered bushes, or
in a prepared bower of leafy branches. The evening has well closed in
before the tip-top of high-water; and the loud scream of the myriads
of birds deadens the detonation of the guns as they send their iron
shower among them, enabling us to load and reload without completely
scaring the birds. We once obtained ninety-five of the largest kind,
and hundreds of smaller ones, to feast the crowd who were assembled
near preparatory to a great tuba-fishing.
Balambañgan is admirably situated to command the China seas; however,
if its position be superior to Labuan, the latter has coal to
counterbalance that advantage. While strolling along the beach we came
upon the tracks of cattle, deer, and pigs, and another party from the
ship had the good fortune to secure a large supply of excellent fish
with the seine. This island, as well as the neighbouring coast of the
mainland, appears to swarm with game; I landed on the latter, and
found an extensive open plain, diversified with a few low eminences,
backed by some cleared hills, and there the tracks of wild cattle,
deer, and pigs were innumerable. The rhinoceros is also reported to be
occasionally seen, but we came across no traces of it.
Continuing our voyage, we passed the island of Banguey, in the northern
part of which there are fine peaked hills, with inhabitants, and
plenty of good water, therefore far preferable to Balambañgan for a
settlement; as if the harbours be not good, there is sufficient shelter
against both monsoons.
The next island is Mali Wali, and here we anchored to examine it. We
tried at many places, but found the little creeks shallow and lined
with mangrove swamps; but by landing on the south side, at the east
end of the stone beach, there is but a few minutes’ walk in dry forest
between the shore and the cleared land. The appearance of the island is
remarkable; for miles the hills apparently are clothed with grass, with
only a narrow belt of jungle skirting the shingly beach; the reality,
however, disappointed us, as we found that this verdant-looking land
was but a heap of soft sandstone, with long coarse grass growing up
between the crevices. However, there is a good supply of clear water
from tiny streams and springs, and the tracks of deer were observed
in many places, while on all sides a species of wild jasmine grew in
luxuriance, bearing a very sweet-scented flower.
This island did not tempt us to stay long, so we steered for Cagayan
Sulu, which is a gem in the ocean; it has three peaks, wooded, but
varied by grassy glades, groves of cocoa-nuts and fruit-trees, partly
concealing and partly revealing scattered houses and villages. It is,
indeed, a picturesque island from every view. Our first intercourse
appeared likely to be unfriendly. Steering round to the south-west
side, we landed at a place where we saw some houses close to the
beach, and as we pulled ashore, we could see the inhabitants gathering
in armed groups; however, we were received with great civility, and
explained the object of our visit, which was to inquire what fresh
provisions could be procured there. We did not stay long, as they
promised to bring us down next day a good supply.
When we landed on the following morning, we found a very large party
assembled with several fine bullocks for sale; while the bargaining
was going on I wandered inland with a companion to have a look at
the country. Wherever we went we found plantations of cocoa-nuts and
plantains, and round the houses were small vegetable gardens, while
between the dwellings were occasionally extensive tracks of long coarse
grass, on which were herds of bullocks feeding.
At length we came to a spot which tempted us to rest. It was a rock
overhanging a tiny bay, thrown into deep shade by the tall graceful
palms which bent over it; while looking inland across the gently
sloping fields of long high grass interspersed with groves, we
could see parties of natives marching in Indian file, with their
bright spear-heads flashing in the sun, winding their way down to the
extemporized market. We sat under the shade of some areca palms; which,
though young, and not twenty feet in height, were yet covered with
fruit and freshly expanded blossoms, which shed a delicious perfume
through the whole grove.
Our bargaining prospered, as fine cattle were secured at thirty
shillings a piece, ducks for two wine bottles, fine cocks and hens for
one; as well as a couple of pretty ponies, cocoa-nut oil and nuts,
plantains, limes, ginger, onions, and fruits. This island, though
formerly a dependency of Sulu, is now independent, and is governed by
some of those half-bred Arabs who corrupt and weigh heavily on these
countries. It is finely situated in the Sulu seas, and it is both
healthy and fertile. The inhabitants appear much the same as those I
had seen about Maludu Bay, and, with the exception of some strangers,
were civil. The latter were traders who had visited Samboañgan,
Manilla, and other Spanish ports, and were there corrupted, by
intercourse with the low Europeans and dissipated classes who usually
frequent such places; and at one time these men were so insolent that I
thought their conduct would become unbearable, till they were quieted
by my shooting down a cocoa-nut, as mentioned in my Limbang journal.
The most singular spot in this island is near the old crater-looking
harbour, mentioned by Sir Edward Belcher, which we entered over a
reef. It is almost circular, and is surrounded by lofty rocks clothed
with trees, bushes, and hanging creepers, presenting a magnificent
wall of evergreen. Rowing to the west side of the bay, and climbing to
the top of a lofty bank, we had a splendid view of a remarkable almost
circular, lake. The place where we stood was a gap between the lofty
cliffs that rose on either hand, and appeared to have been formed by
the inner waters bursting their boundary, and overthrowing the upper
defences of this natural dam. The wooded cliff’s continue all round,
forming a perfect barrier, now rising to a great height, then sinking
to some fifty or sixty feet. The waters, elevated more than forty feet
above the sea, lay in undisturbed repose, and presented for upwards of
half a mile a clear mirror, reflecting back the rays of the sun and the
deep shadow of the tall trees.
I mounted with some difficulty the top of the left-hand cliff, and
had an extensive view through the tangled bushes. On one side were
the waters of the crater, on the other the serene lake with the sea
appearing beyond. We heard from the natives that alligators swarm in
this secluded water, so that fish must be plentiful also, as few pigs
could descend here. In the interior they say there is another more
extensive lake of the same formation; this one was found to be eight
fathoms deep at the edges, and forty in the centre.
Started from Cagayan Sulu, and after encountering rougher weather than
we expected to find in this usually calm sea, lay to, as we thought we
were not far from the island we were intending to visit.
At daylight the two peaks of Sulu were visible; and as we approached,
the summits of the other hills appeared, while all the rest of the
island lay enveloped in mist; but the sun soon dispelled this, and
showed us the west coast of the lovely island of Sulu. The slopes of
the hills presented alternate patches of cleared grassy land, with
clumps of trees scattered over its face, reminding one of a noble
English park; while a long dense line of cocoa-nut palms skirted the
beach, among which were seen many houses and groups of inhabitants,
who were no doubt watching our approach with much anxiety, as they had
already suffered from the attacks of the Dutch and Spaniards; but the
sight of the English flag no doubt restored their confidence.
Anchored off Sugh, the capital of Sulu, which is situated at the bottom
of a bay, and appears small; but among the existing dwellings we could
distinguish blackened piles, the remains of portions of the city burnt
by the Dutch. On the right of the town is a high hill, curiously peaked
and well wooded. Farther off to the left, and at the back, are many
high mountains, some peaked, others rounded; but, as a whole, forming
a beautiful view. A white flag, with a castle represented on it, waved
over the fort, and a pilot jack marked the residence of Mr. Wyndham, an
Englishman, settled here for the purposes of trade.
Very few natives came off, until at length a messenger arrived from the
sultan to know who we were; we returned a suitable and, no doubt, a
satisfactory reply, as the Sulus were in a state of great excitement,
having suffered considerably from the recent shots of the Dutch ships.
Having communicated with Mr. Wyndham, we went to see the watering-place
about a mile to the west of the town, situated near the great tree to
which I have alluded in my second account of Kina Balu, where we found
the water bursting out of the sand, clear as crystal, and pleasant to
the taste.
The tree is very fine, being at least thirteen feet in diameter, with
a very sinewy stem. Mr. Wyndham walked with us a little way into
the country, and showed us some of the houses, having much the same
appearance as those of the Malays. These people are better-looking
than most other inhabitants of the archipelago; but appeared to be
suspicious, watching us at every point; in fact, we afterwards heard
the fugitives from Balignini were scattered among them, and they had
had no time to forget what they had suffered from the well-deserved
attacks of the Spaniards. We then pulled to Mr. Wyndham’s house, a
mere rough building, raised near the site of his former one, burnt by
the Dutch--why or wherefore is inconceivable. The whole night after
our arrival the country was in an uproar, reports spreading of the
advent of innumerable ships, which made the inhabitants hurry their
women, children, and goods up to the mountain. In the evening we took a
friendly letter to the sultan.
_28th._--Went with the watering-party, but were unable to
penetrate far, on account of heavy rain and the incivility of the
natives, who waved us back. No answer, as yet, from the sultan.
_30th._--Landed at the watering-place, where the mountaineers
were assembled at a sort of market, bartering, buying, and selling.
We walked about a little, and then returned to the beach, where we
were surrounded by some scores of men, women, and children from the
mountains and neighbourhood; the former are said to be of a different
race, but we saw little signs of it. The women, on the whole, are
better-looking than the Malays, and some of the little girls were quite
pretty; they are civil enough, but anxious to know our business.
In the afternoon we went to an audience with the sultan. Having landed
at Mr. Wyndham’s, who led us by a long shaky platform to the shore,
where we found numbers of armed natives assembled, an officer from the
sultan led the way along a broad rough road with a high stockade on the
left, and houses on the right. We passed in, through ever-increasing
crowds, to a market-place, where the women were selling fowls, fish,
and vegetables, till we came to a creek, over which a rude bridge took
us to the palace. Before crossing, we observed a large brass 24-pounder
showing through an embrasure. The stockade continued on the left, until
we passed a large gate, where on a green were assembled some hundreds
of men, armed with muskets, spears, heavy Lanun swords, and krises, and
defended by shields, and some brass armour, and old Spanish-looking
helmets.
The audience hall was on the right, and the house of prayer on the
left. The crowd opening, we mounted some steps, and crossing a
verandah thronged with armed men, found ourselves in the presence of
the sultan. The audience hall is large, but perfectly bare of ornament,
as all their valuable silks and hangings were packed up, and mostly
sent to the hills, on account of an absurd report spread by the mate of
the Spanish brig we found anchored near, which, when we came in sight,
began to get under weigh, and stand out to sea.
On being questioned by the Chinese passengers, he said that we had
given him notice to get out of the way, as we were about to bombard the
town. The rumour having spread, the natives packed up their valuables,
and spent the night in carrying their goods off to the hills, and in
removing their women and children. This caused the suspicious behaviour
of the people, and what tends to keep up their apprehensions a little
is that the Spanish brig has not yet returned to her proper anchorage.
But to return to the hall. In the centre stood a round table; on the
opposite side sat the sultan surrounded by his datus, and around were
a number of empty chairs, on which we took our seats. After shaking
hands, a few questions were asked, as, “What was the news? Was France
quiet?” The sultan was very like the picture in Sir Edward Belcher’s
book, and was dressed in light-flowered silk, with a very broad gold
belt round his waist, a handsome kris, and gold bracelets, sparkling
with jewels. Some of the datus were splendidly dressed in silks, gold
brocades, handsome turbans and head-dresses, like golden tiaras; the
young men were, as usual, the most gaudily decorated, while the old
were in plain white jackets, and crowds of the better class sat behind
and around us.
Observing that Sir James Brooke, who had lately suffered much from
fever, looked hot and tired, the sultan politely broke up the audience,
and we returned by the same path we came, and after sitting a short
time with Mr. Wyndham, went on board to dine with Captain Keppel, where
our Sulu acquaintance amused us with stories about the natives.
Went on shore to Mr. Wyndham’s to meet datu Daniel; very little
conversation passed. He appears to be a quiet, good-natured man; his
brothers are very fine fellows, and very fair; with them we went to see
the race-course. Passing through a portion of the town, we came to an
open grassy field, where a few men were trying their horses by trotting
them over the sward. None of the chiefs being present, there were no
trials of speed.
_2nd._--On shore early with our guide, but the people not
appearing to like our penetrating into the country, we returned to Mr.
Wyndham’s house, and as we passed the stockades, the Sulus laughingly
pointed to some indentations in the wood where the shot from the Dutch
ships had struck, but had done little damage.
_3rd._--Weighed anchor and stood along the coast for Tulyan Bay;
but wind and tide being against us, we let go our anchor; sailing
again at three, we found ourselves towards seven in Tulyan Bay, much
to the discomfort of the villagers, whose shouts and screams could
be distinctly heard on board. At last a couple of men came off and
returned on shore after a few reassuring words from Mr. Wyndham, which
appeared sufficient to pacify the inhabitants, as the noises ceased.
Tulyan Bay is rather deep, and appears to be well protected, and takes
its name from a pretty-looking island in the offing, which was ceded to
the English in Dalrymple’s time--in fact, the inhabitants thought we
were come to take possession.
_4th._--I must now endeavour to give the little information I
collected concerning Sulu. The government is carried on by a sultan,
with his council of datus; at the present time the principal power is
held by datu Molok, an elder but illegitimate brother of the sultan--a
shrewd-looking man with quick, inquiring eyes. The sultan is said to be
well-intentioned; but, being weak in character, is totally unable to
subdue the turbulent aristocracy by whom he is surrounded. In despair
he is reported to give way to his fondness for opium-smoking.
The laws are but little respected, and ancient customs are fast falling
into disuse, particularly one resembling a voluntary poor-rate. Every
Sulu trader used to present five per cent. of his yearly profits to a
fund, which was divided among the poor of the island. The mountaineers
acknowledge the supremacy of the sultan, but refuse to pay tribute,
and a government which cannot enforce that is not likely to be able to
suppress feuds, or effectually to put down disturbances. Mr. Wyndham
pointed out a man who was notorious as a murderer, and one instance he
had himself witnessed of his bloodthirstiness.
Again, two mountaineers, bargaining for a slice of fish, quarrelled;
they mutually seized each other’s weapons; one held the handle of his
opponent’s kris, the other his spear shaft; they struggled, a fight
ensued, the crowd collected, some took one side, some the other, and
in a few minutes seven men lay gasping on the ground. It is not to
be expected that the dependencies of the island will obey, when all
is in such confusion. The sultan’s power is very limited, though the
datus still send parties to raise contributions from the neighbouring
towns, villages, and islands. In all decaying states we find religion
neglected, and here, I imagine, it is held but in slight respect; their
houses of prayer being like a tumble-down barn, and the inhabitants
indulging in the use of wine, and occasionally pork.
Mr. Wyndham told us an amusing story of an old datu, who, going
on business to a Chinese trader, began to find a delicious odour
insinuatingly creeping over his senses.
“Ah,” said he, “what is this? some cooking, what is it?”
“Pork.”
“Pork?” said he; “ah!”
“Would you like to taste some?”
“Why,” he answered in a low voice, but cautiously surveying the room to
see if he were watched, “yes, bring me a little.”
On tasting it, and finding it very good, he began to eat some more.
Mr. Wyndham living next door, and hearing the old fellow’s noise, had
removed some of the partition, and was watching him. He now coughed.
“Oh, I am ruined,” cried the datu; “who lives in the next house?”
“Signor Wyndham.”
“Then he has me in his power.”
Our informant then went in, and, laughing, shook the Mahomedan chief by
the hand, and congratulated him on his freedom from prejudice. He ever
after had much influence with the old man, who feared being exposed.
The inland inhabitants call themselves Islamites, but are very lax and
ignorant.
The Sulu language is soft; it contains, I believe, many Malay words and
expressions, but it is essentially different; though the upper classes
understand Malay, and also many of the lower, there being here numerous
slaves from Borneo. The population, they say, is 200,000; it is
probably 100,000; not less, from the numerous towns and villages along
the coast, and the number of houses detached in twos and threes. On an
extraordinary occasion, they say they could bring some 15,000 or 20,000
men into the field; but, in general, 5,000 would be as many as they
could assemble. In fact, when the day of trouble came, they had not,
perhaps, 2,000 to defend the town; and this may be readily accounted
for, as a large proportion of the population is in servitude, which is,
however, generally an easy state of existence.
The slaves are collected from all parts of the archipelago, from
Acheen Head to New Guinea, and from the south of Siam to the most
northern parts of the Philippines: it is a regular slave market. The
Sulus themselves are a better-looking people than any I have yet seen;
they are daring and independent, and the mountaineers, particularly,
are a wild but polite people. Their young women and little girls are
dark-eyed and good-featured, with easy figures; free, though not
obtrusive, in their ways.
Bold and daring as the datus appear, they have much politeness in
their manners, particularly datu Daniel and his brother; and on proper
occasions their carriage is dignified and commanding. The lower
orders are outwardly rough, violent, and fierce, yet have an inherent
politeness, which, when inclined to show confidence, they display to
much advantage. On state occasions the young men appear in splendid
dresses, while the elder content themselves with plain clothes. The
dress is the same as the rest of the archipelago--a jacket, trousers,
sarong, and occasionally a shirt or under-vest. They all wear krises,
and most of them also carry either muskets or spears.
The Balignini near the watering-places were the worst we met--insolent
and inclined to pilfer; indeed, there was nearly a quarrel about some
of the seamen’s clothes they tried to appropriate. To show their
dislike, they planted sharp fish-bones round the watering-place, in
the hope that our men, landing in the dark, might cut their feet. The
Dutch burnt about two hundred houses, but did little injury to the
stockades, which are, however, sadly out of repair. In proper order,
well mounted with guns, they could make a good defence, as the walls
facing the sea are about fifteen feet thick of mud and stone, encased
with teak stockades. The rampart around the sultan’s palace is in the
best repair, but not so thick as the others; and datu Daniel’s is by
no means contemptible. The men, too, would fight bravely, as they did
against the Dutch; but their guns, except the brass ones, are mostly
dismounted, and they have no carriages ready; the iron ones are said
to be those taken at Balambañgan, when they surprised and captured our
settlement.
The appearance of the country from the sea is very beautiful, many of
the hills rising to a peak some 2,000 feet above the level of the sea;
while others are lower and wooded, and form an agreeable contrast.
Several of these eminences are forest-covered to the summit, while many
present alternate patches of rice cultivation, pasture land, groves
of cocoa-nut, palms, gardens, and detached clumps of forest trees. It
is by far the most beautiful island I have seen. Sulu, in good hands,
might be made to produce every tropical production, and become the
centre of the commerce in these seas. Ships, by staying a little time,
may obtain bullocks, fowls, ducks, vegetables, fruits, cocoa-nuts, and
very fine water at a very good watering-place. The duties on goods are
high; nevertheless, Mr. Wyndham and the Spaniards carry on a profitable
commerce.
Tulyan is rather a small island, with hills to the north, but low
land on the south: the former with a few trees and some bananas, with
cocoa-nut palms at the foot; the latter a little woody. Dalrymple gives
some account of it. In his time the Spaniards had driven the natives
away, burnt their houses, and cut down their fruit-trees; but there is
now a large village along the beach, with many cocoa-nut groves. The
inhabitants are pearl fishers.
Next day anchored off two woody islets; the captain, as usual, shelling
and dredging. Islands are to be seen in the distance all around us.
_6th._--Anchored off Basilan. High hills and lowlands covered with
woods, showing but few clearings. We counted eighteen islands at one
time; among which were the late pirate haunts of Balignini and Tonquil.
Beat about, and anchored off Samboañgan after dark.
We remained seven days at Samboañgan, walking and exploring in every
direction, and enjoyed our stay there very much. Magindanau, as far as
we have seen it, is very hilly and woody, with the exception of the
neighbourhood of the Spanish settlement of Samboañgan, which has been
cleared for some miles; though, for an old colony, not so much as might
have been expected.
The town is situated on the west point of Lanun Bay, and from the
sea appears much smaller than it is in reality. It presents no very
striking features; the long, low, dark fort and whitewashed houses,
intermixed with a few groves of cocoa-nuts, with forest on either side,
and the hills, some cleared and some wooded, rising about seven miles
inland, suggest a rough idea of this pleasant little town. The plain
around is very well cultivated; as you walk along the roads--very much
like English country ones--you have a continual series of large rice
fields, cocoa-nut groves, now swelling into extensive plantations, then
a few round a detached cottage, and intermixed with these are great
quantities of bananas. Many small streams intersect the plain, adding
much to its fertility, and are spanned by covered bridges.
The fort is to the right of the town, and has rather low walls, mounted
with a good many guns; against a native force it must be impregnable,
but a little shelling would soon subdue it. It is garrisoned by about
two hundred and fifty native soldiers. Leaving its gate, you cross a
large green, beyond which lies the principal portion of the town, laid
out in a rectangular shape, with streets intersecting each other at
equal distances. The houses are in general mere native ones; others
a little superior; and perhaps a couple of dozen of a better class,
in which reside the Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Commandant, and
other officers. Almost every other house has a shop, in which cigars,
spirits, chocolate, sugar, and various other articles are sold. The
most respectable class keep retail shops, as well as the little traders.
Beyond this portion of the town is a little green, with the church--a
long barn-like building. Seen within by the imperfect light of evening,
it appeared destitute of ornaments, except round the altar, and beyond
this are some more streets. The houses I entered had very little
furniture; a small table, some chairs, a bedstead, and a kind of
drawers, with a few shelves, complete the whole.
The people themselves are well worthy of notice. They are a mixture of
Spaniards and natives; a few of pure blood, in the Government offices;
the rest half-castes, mestiches, and natives. The men exhibit no
remarkable features, except the Governor, Colonel Cayelano de Feguaroa,
who was an agreeable man, and spoke French. We were much pleased with
his liberal ideas and gentlemanly manners, and the other officers
were equally polite and attentive. The generality of the native men
are kind and civil, but with fat, unmeaning faces. The women are much
better. The Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, the only pure Castilian in the
place, was a very pretty woman, with fine eyes and regular features.
The mestiches have in general good eyes and dark hair; but, with the
exception of a few, their faces are too broad.
There was a famous corner shop opposite the church, which contained
good specimens of the race:--Gabriella, likewise called Romantica, one
of the handsomest women in the town, with pleasing features, and her
sister, with the usual flat face. Every one visiting Samboañgan made
that shop their place of call, as the staid old mother and the girls
were very civil and hospitable.
In the country one could always obtain cocoa-nuts, and many of us were
invited in to eat fruit and drink chocolate and gin by the obliging
residents, whose pretty houses, embowered in fruit-trees, were an
ornament to the road side.
The officers of the _Meander_ gave a ball. The quarter-deck was
cleared of guns and surrounded with flags on all sides, and ornamented
with green boughs. All the Spanish officers came, and about fifty of
the townswomen, some young, others old. We danced quadrilles, waltzes,
and polkas: the first caused much confusion, the second was well
danced, while the third was quite new to most of them. The commandant
gave one in return, which was kept up with greater spirit. Many of the
girls were fairer and better-looking than those we saw on board, and a
few were in European costumes, with shoes and stockings, while the rest
had Malay petticoats, and little jackets with scarfs. Dancing the polka
with them was found to be very difficult, as, few having chemises on,
the hand constantly coming in contact with the skin, it was impossible
to obtain a hold; and their little slippers were flying in every
direction.
Their own band played waltzes very well by ear; but nothing else.
Indeed, it is almost the only dance they care for, as the girls find
it difficult to try any other, on account of their wearing slippers
without heels, some of which are very prettily ornamented with gold and
silver embroidery.
Supplies were scarce, though I saw a great many oxen and cows, some
goats, fowls, and ducks; but its being a penal settlement, trade is
obstructed and carefully watched to prevent the escape of convicts, and
none could come to the ship without a pass. The ponies are very good,
except the hacks; the water buffaloes are large, and employed to draw
a peculiar sledge along the smooth roads. The chief amusement of the
men on Sundays is cock-fighting: crowds assemble to witness this cruel
sport; and then they show some money, which at other times appears
so scarce that few shops could give change for a dollar. We observed
that the rice was trodden out by the buffaloes, on hard beaten ground.
Washing was dear, being eleven dollars a hundred.
_16th._--Started on our return voyage. Lay-to off a sand-bank not
marked in the chart. A grave was found there with four bamboos stuck
round, one at each corner, in the midst of thousands of birds, with
immense numbers of eggs, some of which were brought off, and proved
good eating. I will omit the ground we went over on our return, and
give an account of a second visit we paid this archipelago.