MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_continued_.
Wet Morning--Wild Cattle--A Night Adventure--View of Molu
Mountain--A Pebbly Flat--Moose Deer--Our Tents--Kayans--Their
Attacks--Desolation--Course they pursue to invade
these Districts--Difficulties--Attack the Lepuasing
Muruts--Fearful Retaliation--Attacks on the Villages of the
Lower Limbang--Makota’s Treachery--His Cupidity--Surprise
of Balat Ikan--Alarm Signal--Advance--Fresh Kayan
Marks--Inundations--Unskilful Sportsmen--Difficult Rapids--The
Sertab Hills--Enter the Limestone District--A New Kayan
Hut--High Pork--Effect of Pebbles on the Rock--Agreeable
Evening--Omen Birds--Japer’s Method of easing a sore
Heart--The Punan Tribe--The Spy--The Alligator Omen--The Bird
Omen--Attack the Village--Poisoned Arrows--Destruction of a
Tribe--Effect of such Forays on the Country--The Ghosts on
the Tapang Tree--Numerous Bees’ Nests--Sand Flies--Seribas
Omen Bird--The Salindong--Kayan Resting-place--Traces of
Captives taken--Precautions--Difficulties increase--Limestone
Country--Severe Toil--Accidents avoided--Hauling the
Boats--River narrows--A Fresh--Towing-ropes--Story of the Death
of Orang Kaya Apo--Enter the Sandstone District again--Broader
River--Snakes on Trees--The same Colour as the Boughs and
Foliage--Biawaks or Guanas--A large One--Their Ways--The Fowls
and the Cobra--Heavy Day’s Work--Future Plans--Two Ways of
reaching Adang--The flying Foxes--Huge Frog--The Madihit--Leave
our Boats--Handsome Trees--Appearance of the Country--Sand
Flies--Preparations for the Overland Journey--Division of
Food--Our famous Hunters--A Cache--The Chinese on the Madihit.
_September 1st_, 7 a.m.--The night continued fine till towards
early morn, when the rain commenced, and still continues. The showers
are not very heavy, but there is an incessant descent of drizzle. The
river rose two feet during the night, but there is a tendency to fall.
I should push on immediately, only it is now necessary to open all the
mat coverings, and prepare for poling; before we could stow away the
baggage, they would be wet through. I must have patience.
3 p.m.--Having breakfasted, and the weather clearing, we managed to get
away at 8.15, and at 11.20 passed the entrance of the Madalam. At Pulau
Tambadau, so called on account of our twice disturbing a fine tambadau
bull from this island, I sent the Orang Kaya round the inner passage to
drive any wild cattle that might be there towards the main river; but,
unfortunately, they heard him, and we saw them plunge from the end of
the island into the narrow stream. He fired, says he hit one, but there
was no result--very vexing, as I thought he would go so quietly as to
drive the cattle towards us. Had they plunged into the main stream, we
should have secured several: there were eight, some of them quite young.
Just at the entrance of the Madalam, opposite the site of the China
fort before mentioned, we once had what I thought might have proved
a serious adventure. We had built a small hut, and our whole party
consisting of but fifteen, we kept a good watch. Towards four in the
morning, the sentinel touched me quietly, I got up, and found old Japer
watching with a musket in his hand, who beckoned me to him; then I
distinctly heard footsteps in the jungle. I told the sentinel to wake
the men quietly, and when all were prepared, I shouted out in Malay,
“Who goes there?” No answer, but perfect stillness. I then made Japer
hail in the Kayan and also in the Murut languages, and as again no
answer was returned, I fired a miniè rifle over the spot from whence
the noise of footsteps had proceeded. The crash of the conical ball
in the trees made the intruders rush back. In about a quarter of an
hour we heard steps on the pebbly flat below us. We again hailed, but
obtaining no answer, we fired a volley. There was much movement, as
of footsteps in rapid retreat. I thought at first it might be a pig
or a tambadau; but on examining the jungle near the hut, we found the
footprints of several men who had crawled up very near to us. They may
have been only wax hunters, but they ought to have answered the hail:
my men, however, insisted that they were Kayans.
After leaving the Madalam on our right, we entered a perfectly new
country. We saw a range of hills, said to be Sertab, to the eastward.
We stopped at two p.m. below an extensive pebbly flat. It shortly
afterwards commenced raining, and is now pouring heavily, though as the
clouds are coming from the north, there is some hope of the weather
clearing up. Just below Tambadau Island we had a view of the Molu
range, and I was somewhat puzzled by it. There appear to be two peaks,
the westernmost much lower than that to the east, which is considerably
loftier. When we were at the foot of the range, we noticed that there
was a peak to the westward, but not much separated from the mountain
we attempted to ascend.[7]
9 p.m.--About four p.m. the rain ceased, but the river continued to
rise till seven: it is now gradually sinking. It rose three feet in
this broad space, so that in the narrow portions of the stream it must
have risen much more. We have fastened our boats in a safe place, under
a clump of trees near the northern part of the pebbly flat. This mass
of shingle is, perhaps, 300 yards by 150 in its broadest part, and
forms the easternmost portion of an island. In pulling along to-day, I
noticed several of these beds of water-worn pebbles showing themselves
in the banks, from two to eighteen feet above the present level of the
river, which proves that the stream flows now at a much lower level;
great accumulations of drift wood may also be occasionally observed
cropping out of the steep banks. We have as yet passed no ancient
forest; young jungle, mixed with bamboos, cover the banks. The water
to-day has, on the whole, been very shallow, and we had to use great
exertions occasionally to get the boats over the rapids.
Just before dusk, a man shouted out that there were moose-deer in the
island. We instituted a very active search, but the cunning animals hid
themselves away in the long grass and brushwood, so that without dogs
they were not to be found, and swimming exceedingly well, they always
take to the water when pursued.
_2nd._--(My journal appears to be filled with nothing but notices
of the weather; but as success or non-success depended entirely on
the amount of rain that fell, it is very natural that I should have
recorded the changes from dry to wet and wet to dry.) There was a
little drizzling during the night, the water falling two feet, but at
four a.m. the rain came down in torrents, and the rush of the stream
forbad any attempt at advancing.
4 p.m.--It is unpleasant to record no progress, but the river is still
two feet higher than it was this morning, and is falling but slowly.
Were it still early, I should push on, but it is useless to disturb
ourselves so late in the afternoon. I had a clear, but partial view
to-day of what Japer calls the east end of Molu range. Their summits
appear to rise to between 5,000 and 6,000 feet; they are the mountains
which I can see from the back of the Consulate.
The men begin now to appreciate the tents, and pitch them every night.
I still sleep in the boat, as it is a work of labour to remove my
baggage, and it is as well not to leave it without my servant or myself
to watch over it. To-day we noticed evidences of there having been
visitors lately in this neighbourhood. Our guides declare they are
Kayans, so that the men are beginning to keep a look-out.
We are surrounded by the evidences of former cultivation, but now the
country is totally abandoned. The Kayans first of all attacked the
Tabuns, who lived on the Madalam, and drove them away; they then
attacked the Muruts on the main river, and these being all disunited,
were destroyed piecemeal, each village caring only for itself. There is
now not an inhabitant on the Upper Limbang except among the mountains
close to its sources. Far as the Muruts have fled--and they are beyond
the distant eastern range--they are still exposed to forays. However,
they are seldom disturbed by great attacks; they are more annoyed by
small parties of from ten to fifty.
In my journal kept during my visit to the Baram Kayans, I mention that
there was great weeping in some of the villages on account of the
destruction of a party said to have amounted to six hundred, but I
believe two hundred was the right number. They started from the Baram
town to search for heads and slaves in the Upper Trusan. I will follow
the course they took, to show what energy they display in this warlike
amusement. They pulled down the Baram until they reached the Tutu
branch; which they ascended to the Millanau, then up that tributary to
the foot of the western Molu range.
Here was the regular Kayan road connecting the Millanau with the
Trunan, a branch of the Madalam. This road is cleared about two fathoms
broad, and then trunks of small trees are laid across and secured about
a yard apart. I followed it once for upwards of two miles. The Kayans,
on reaching this spot, haul their boats (tamuis) along the road, and
considering that some of their tamuis are sixty feet long, it is a work
of infinite labour, but three or four crews lay on to one boat and
gradually move the whole fleet over into the Trunan river. From thence
they descend about thirty miles through the Madalam to the Limbang;
then up the Limbang to the Adang landing-place--very heavy work, as we
find it.
On this occasion they pushed farther up the river, and crossed over
to the interior of the Trusan. Here, as ill luck would have it, they
were noticed by the Lepuasing Muruts, and contrary to the usual Murut
custom, a large force quietly collected, and before the Kayans had
killed above two women and a child, they were attacked in the rear and
fled to an island full of caves.
They were soon surrounded, and the alarm having spread, reinforcements
of Muruts came in on every side. They attacked the mouths of some of
the caves, but the Kayans easily beat them off. Finding they were
losing men to no purpose, they changed their tactics, and at this part
of the story the Murut listeners gave a grunt of satisfaction. They
collected great quantities of firewood and heaped it before the caves,
then set it on fire, and prepared for the rush that would surely take
place. Maddened by the smoke, the Kayans attempted to break through,
but were driven back, and in less than two hours the whole party were
either killed or suffocated. The Lepuasing Muruts have suffered from
no further attacks. One or two Kayans who did not fly to the caves
got away, and reached their homes after a few months in a state of
semi-starvation.
The Kayans having driven the Muruts of the upper Limbang away, are now
extending their attacks to the portion nearer the capital. In March,
1857, they came over to the number of three thousand, and built a
large encampment at the mouth of the Damit river; from thence they sent
insolent messages to the Government of Brunei, threatening to destroy
the whole country unless some particular village was given up to them
to plunder. The Bornean Government, in great fear, collected every
available man, and sent them up to oppose the Kayans; but, apparently,
neither felt inclined to fight.
After about a month’s talk, Makota proposed that the Kayans should be
bribed by the Muruts to return to their own country; but the latter,
remembering a former trick he had played them, were very unwilling to
come to terms; so Makota had a secret interview with the Kayan chiefs,
and then gave out that peace was concluded, that the Kayans would
go back to their own country, and so ordered the Bornean forces to
return to the capital. Scarcely had they done so, when Makota’s plan
was revealed: he had given them up a Murut village (Balat Ikan) which
he disliked; the Kayans surprised it, killed thirteen, and captured
seventeen, obtaining likewise the whole plunder. This was the Bornean
plan of getting rid of an enemy. It is worthy of remark that while
the two forces were face to face, traders from the capital went up to
supply the Kayans with food in exchange for valuable jungle produce.
The way in which the head-hunters surprised Balat Ikan is an
illustration of the divisions that separate the different races on the
Limbang. The frontier fortified village was then Blimbing, inhabited
by Bisayans, commanded by a son of the old Orang Kaya Panglima Prang,
I have often referred to, and when he saw the Kayan force descending
the river, he ran to his guns and prepared to fire into them, but the
people in the foremost boat shouted out that if he would neither fire
his guns, or beat the alarm signal, they would not meddle with his
village, upon which he ordered his men not to interfere. The villagers
of Balat Ikan, inhabited by Muruts, trusting to the usual alarm signal,
kept no watch, and were easily surprised.
From time immemorial, it has been a custom among the inhabitants of
these villages to beat an alarm on their gongs on the first appearance
of an enemy, or when some great misfortune has happened. It puts the
people on the alert, as when I lost my boat on a snag in the Madalam,
the report spread I was drowned or in trouble, and the alarm signal was
beaten, and I met a dozen boats coming to the rescue, or to inquire
into the truth of the report.
Makota’s trick, referred to above, was this--The Kayans were in force
at Sungei Damit (in 1855) when he arranged with their chiefs that on
the payment of a hundred pikuls of guns (700_l._) they should
retire. The Muruts collected a large amount, which Makota coolly kept
for himself. The enraged Kayans fell upon a Tabun village above Batang
Parak, and carried it with great slaughter of men, women, and children.
Having remained quiet the whole day, the men were in no way fatigued,
and we sat late talking over these and other matters, and collecting
words of the Adang language, which is, in fact, the same as that of the
other Muruts.
_3rd._ The river did not fall above three inches during the night,
but I pushed off at six and brought up at 12.45 for the day, as it was
thundering and threatening rain from the S.W. Three p.m.--The rain
has just commenced, but we are comfortably sheltered for the night.
There is little to notice, except that the river continues broad and
often very shallow, each reach containing an island which, of course,
produces a rapid, rendering our progress slow. Occasionally the banks
are high, showing a sort of stratified shale. The jungle continues
small, except on some of the low hills we have passed. From our resting
place the Sertab range does not appear to be far off.
Some of our party are much alarmed by finding a long Kayan hut but
recently occupied; so that there is no doubt that the head-hunters
have been here, which induces me to take every reasonable precaution;
but our Muruts are full of the most absurd fancies, saying that if the
Kayans have killed people in the interior, the villagers will declare
we did it, and attack us. They would willingly return to their homes;
even those who are anxious to see their friends are disheartened by the
assured marks of the recent neighbourhood of the head-hunters. I have
told all the men that on no account are we to meddle with the Kayans,
but should they attack any of our party, then to fall upon them without
mercy. I hope we shall neither see nor hear anything of them.
We have brought up for the night at a curious place, a sort of large
island, a stony and sandy plain, about 200 by 400 yards, with patches
of vegetation and clumps of trees on it. There is one about fifty
yards from us, that will afford shelter in case of a heavy fresh. There
is every sign of there being tremendous inundations in this river. Our
sportsmen, with their usual ill-luck, missed a deer on the sandy plain
before us. There are numerous droppings of wild cattle, and our men
have just reported some on the other side of the river, about a quarter
of a mile farther up. If it cease raining before sunset, I will go
after them.
7 p.m.--I have been, and there is not a trace of anything but pigs. A
huge boar swam away within fifty yards of one of the men, but he missed
it; we were consoled, however, on our return, by catching some very
fine fish. Rain has again commenced, and until we leave Molu to the
north of us will, I believe, continue.
_4th._--Though it drizzled a good part of the night, still the
river fell nine inches. We got away by 6 a.m., and pulled on till 9.40,
when we stopped for breakfast; off again at 11.25, and brought up for
the night at 3.35. This is the most fortunate day we have yet had:
cloudy in the morning, but clearing up into fine weather. We have had
seven hours and a half of good work, not including stoppages, and have
made, I think, more than eight miles. Nearly every reach includes a
rapid, and one at the Sertab hills caused us a little delay, as we had
to remove stones to make a passage for our boats. In the least rapid
part of the river is a good place for taking the dip and strike of the
rock. Dip N.N.W., strike E.N.E., angle 80°, sandstone.
The river has been winding the whole day among hills, varying in
elevation from 500 to 1,500 feet (estimated), and clothed with a fine
forest. At the distance the Sertab hills appear to be a single range,
but in fact they are a succession of short ones. When this district was
inhabited, no doubt each had a distinct name, but now they call them
all the Sertab hills. We are about to leave the sandstone country. In
the last reach I applied the test to the first piece of limestone I
have seen during this expedition, but it was scarcely necessary, as
there was no mistaking its form. The Salindong hills ahead of us are
evidently limestone. We had a partial view of a high mountain, which
Japer says is the east end of the Molu range, which I long to see in
the rear, but as yet it is always to the east of south. I suspect there
are several ranges, forming what the natives call the Molu hills. The
general direction from the mouth of the Madalam has been S.E. by E.
The incidents which have varied the day have been the finding of
another new Kayan sulap, or hut, and the decaying head of a large
wild boar left by an alligator on the bank. The last was for us an
unfortunate discovery, as the Muruts seized upon it, and have it now in
their boat--a most offensive subject for our nostrils. Every time they
passed us a most disgusting whiff came our way, and now at our resting
place we are obliged to insist that they shall either get rid of the
head, or encamp away from us. The love of high pork has prevailed over
fear, so they have taken up their quarters at the other end of the
pebbly flat.
I have noticed to-day many of those deep holes in rocks mentioned by
De la Beche, as caused by the continual working of pebbles on them.
Many have bored their way down several feet, working even through to
the stream; others are in every stage of progress. The river, though in
many places deep, is generally shallow, particularly at the rapids, and
it occasionally rushes down with great force. I expect as we enter the
limestone district, to change the character of these impediments, which
have as yet consisted of pebbles, gradually enlarging as we move up the
river; many of limestone are now showing themselves. The Muruts declare
there are edible birds’-nest caves near Salindong; but we must reserve
any search till our return, as I will not allow anything to interfere
with our advance.
I do enjoy this exploration of new countries. I especially enjoy an
evening such as this. It is a fine star-light night; we have pitched
our tents on a broad pebbly flat, and the men have collected a great
pile of wood, with which to keep up a cheerful fire. Most of us
are sitting round it, and that everlasting subject of discussion
arises--how far are the Kayans off. The hut to-day appeared as if very
lately used, but if we are to be attacked, I hope it will be in the
day-time. The conversation was beginning to flag, when suddenly we
heard a bird utter three cries to our right. “Ah,” cried Japer, “that
is a good sign,” and instantly reverted to head-hunting and omens. I
will here introduce a story illustrative of the practice. Its cool
atrocity always makes my heart sick. Japer told it in illustration of
various omens. I will try and relate it in his own words, whilst they
are still ringing in my ears.
“I am acquainted with all the different birds and animals in which
the Pakatans have faith. Do you hear that grasshopper,--it is on the
right, and is a sign of good fortune. Were there three or four sounding
together, we should instantly leave our hut, at whatever time of night,
and seek a new resting-place, or we should suffer for it. When the bird
of omen flies over us from the quarter whence we have just arrived,
it is a good sign; the bird tells us to advance. If he flew from the
quarter whence we were going, we should return to our last night’s
resting-place, whatever might be the distance. You know that bird which
has three cries? When it sounds to the right it is good luck; and also
when to the left, if very near an enemy, it rejoices to give them to
us as a prey. When it cries, 'Trik, trik,’ it is death to those that
advance.
“I will tell you what has happened to me since I have entered El
Islam. Two of my grand-children died of sickness. How was I to lose
the soreness of heart occasioned by this event? I determined to go
head-hunting. I sent a hundred of my tribe up the Rejang, and started
myself with seventy to Bintulu. There the Orang Kaya Pamancha came to
me and said, 'You are going to kill some of my people.’ 'No; I am not,’
I answered. 'Well,’ he said, 'there is a tribe of Punans living near
Bukit Lambir, who owe me for goods, which they have had for some time.
They sell their camphor and their wax to others, not to me. Go and
attack them; there are only thirty males. But don’t forget me when you
divide the women and children.’
“So I sent my brother, who is a brave man, and he started in a small
canoe, with three men. After a long search, he arrived in their
neighbourhood, and heard them talking in the woods. He therefore hid
his canoe, and that night walked up close to their village. He then
stripped and left his sword and everything near an old tree, and
fastening a string to the stump, crawled towards the house like a pig
on all fours, but gradually letting out the string behind him; this was
to be his guide in returning to his clothes. He found that the house
was large. He then crawled back to the place from whence he started.
Not satisfied with this inspection, he determined to remain there and
have a look at the place during the day. At dawn he concealed himself
in a hollow tree, and waited there till all the Punans had gone out
hunting; he then boldly went near the house and counted the number of
doors--'families’--which he found to be forty. Thereupon, he returned
to his companions, and they all together pulled off to Bintulu.
“On meeting, I asked what was the news? As this was in public, my
younger brother answered, 'Antah,’ (nothing particular); but presently
calling me on one side, he told me all that he had seen. That very
night I started off with my whole party. When we reached the entrance
of the Lambir River, a great alligator rose to the surface, and kept
up with our boats the whole way. This was a good omen, and I addressed
the animal thus:--'Oh, grandfather, give us good fortune, and we will
provide you with a feast.’ We were all in the highest spirits, when
the omen bird flew from the right hand to the left, crying 'Trik,
trik;’ and immediately another flew from the left to the right,
sounding ‘Trik, trik.’ This double crossing was a very bad omen, and
portended a fight and much contention; so I said to my followers, 'Let
us return to our boats for three days; this omen is very bad.’ But they
laughed at me, and said, 'You are becoming afraid.’ 'Very well,’ I
answered, 'let us go on; I shall not be the only one to die.’
“Upon this we approached the house, and at break of day commenced
hurling our siligis (wooden javelins) through the bark walls. Upon
this the Punans answered with a flight of sumpits (poisoned arrows),
one of which struck me on the hand. I dragged it out with my teeth,
of which I had then a few left, and bound up the wound. The charm I
possessed prevented its having any bad effect. When my relations saw
that I was wounded, they said, 'Oh, father, you had better retire.’ But
I answered, 'No; I did not seek the fight to-day; I shall not retire.’
I tried to discharge a new gun I had bought, but the instrument (may it
and he who sold it me be accursed!) would not go off.
“The Punans, fearing that we would use fire, began now to come down
from their house to fight on the ground. They were thirty-five,
we were seventy; but the sun had descended as low as that in the
heavens”--pointing, as he said these words, to the sky (4 p.m.)--“ere
the fight was over. We killed them all; they fought like brave men; not
one tried to run away. We then went up to the houses and seized the
women and children. We captured fifty-five. When we caught a woman, it
was like catching a hen; all her children flocked to her like chickens.
When we caught a child, the mother ran to it directly. That night we
made merry in the house, and next day started off to Bintulu. Some of
the captives cried, others made no sign. My share came to two, whom I
sold to a Brunei man for a pikul of guns each (thirty Spanish dollars).
On that occasion ten of our party were killed, and nearly every man
wounded, which was all caused by neglecting the warning the omen-birds
gave; but our young men were too eager. We got thirty-five heads.
Had they followed my advice, we should have fallen upon them when
unprepared, but I was not listened to.”
Such is the story I have before heard, and Japer has now again repeated
to me in all its detail. I have written it down almost word for word,
omitting, however, his two single combats, in which his opponents fell.
He is a well-known warrior amongst them. The Punans had never done
them the slightest injury; but, for the sake of easing his sore heart,
a tribe is massacred. The Orang Kaya, who gave the information, got a
slave for his trouble. What country can prosper where such scenes are
constantly occurring?
At this moment there are, most probably, from twenty to forty Kayans
pulling before us, seeking for heads and slaves. We cannot be certain
of the number, as, from the signs, there may be one or two tamuis;
and the maxim of these ruffians is, that out of their own country all
are fair game. “Were we to meet our father, we would slay him.” The
head of a child or of a woman is as highly prized as that of a man;
so, as easier prey, the cowards seek them by lying in ambush near
the plantations. I ought to add, that some of the relations of the
Pakatans, who were killed in the foray, sacrificed two of the women
captives for the sake of the heads and for revenge.
The Orang Kaya Upit and his party listened to this story with great
interest, and evidently envied Japer the glorious chance he had had. I
changed the conversation, and then they told stories of the wrongs they
suffered at the hands of the people of the capital. To-night they were
full of stories. Old Japer is a store-house of information; he is so
well acquainted with the countries between Sarawak and Brunei. He has
a thorough faith in ghosts and spirits, and tells of many an adventure
with them; of the Antus who caused the death of the wax-hunters, by
pushing them off the meñgiris or tapang-tree. When the unfortunate
men, from inefficient preparations, as their companions not keeping up
a great fire under the trees to stupefy the bees, are so stung as to
let go their hold, the natural explanation is never taken; they fly to
their superstitions.
Japer’s nephew saw one of these tapang ghosts, and managed to keep his
eye upon him and prevent him pushing him off; he came down without
accident, but without any wax. I suggested that he invented the ghost
to excuse his timidity, which Japer thought probable. To-day we passed
one of these lofty trees, bearing above twenty bees’-nests, among them
four old ones white with wax. As the country is full of tapangs, in
which alone do the bees build their nests, the stories of the great
amount of wax formerly procured in this district may be true. Why do
the honey-bees generally build on one particular tree? Its being the
finest in the forest is no good reason; perhaps there is something
enticing in the bark. I say “generally,” because, though I have never
seen their nests on other trees, yet I have often come across them in
the crevices of rocks.
If travelling has its pleasures, it has also its disagreeables:
mosquitoes near the sea, leeches by thousands in the jungle, and swarms
of sand-flies on the banks of the rivers. The fire being nearly out,
there is no smoke to drive these last nuisances away, and they compel
me to close my journal for the night, and retire under the shelter of a
Scotch plaid.
I have so often mentioned the omen-birds, that I will describe the one
which is most considered by the Seribas Dayaks: body, a bright red;
wings, black, chequered with white; head, black at top, with a beak
and throat light blue; the tail long, a mixture of black, white, and
brown; about the size of a blackbird; the beak is slightly hooked. It
is a scarce bird, and is called by the natives Burong Papaw. The bird
is before me while describing it. I dare say a naturalist would notice
more peculiarities.
_5th._--Though I don’t do very much work, yet I was so tired this
evening that I fell asleep without writing in the day’s journal; but,
waking up at nine a.m., I will briefly notice the day’s occurrences.
We got away at quarter-past six, and, after ascending half a mile,
found ourselves at the mouth of the Salidong, or Salindong, which is
but a small stream on the right hank. A limestone cliff marks the
entrance, and probably gives the name to the branch, _lindong_, to
overshadow. Opposite to it was a Kayan resting-place, where we found
marks which proved that one party had returned. In the hut was picked
up a woman’s jacket, with a small net, left behind in the hurry of
departure, so it is probable they captured her while fishing on the
banks of some rivulet.
Though certain they had obtained captives, opinions were divided on the
subject of heads. I could find no traces, and old Japer agreed with me
that it was uncertain; but it would only be accidentally that we could
have discovered indications. They had left a mark, however, to show
their countrymen that they had been up the Salindong: it was a long
pole, ornamented with three tufts pointing up that stream. The three
tufts were supposed by many to show that they had obtained three heads
or captives; it might mean either. There were evidently two parties
out, and it is more than probable that there is one ahead of us; but
we should have little to fear from the crew of one tamui, even if they
took us by surprise. However, the men are taking every precaution; the
muskets are nightly inspected, discharged if suspected of being damp,
and kept ready at hand to be used at a moment’s notice. I have little
fear but that the heavy volley we could pour into an enemy would drive
them off without trouble.
Our course to-day has been principally through a limestone district,
though occasionally there is sandstone, as at the mouth of the Tuan
River. The general dip is to the E.N.E.; sometimes very steep, varying
from 21° to 53° and 56°. Though we worked to 3.45 p.m., staying only
an hour and a half for breakfast, we made comparatively but little
progress--not, perhaps, more than six miles, as last night’s rain
raised a sort of fresh, which was hard to contend against amid the
limestone rocks and steep banks. In fact, the last half mile took us
nearly two hours to accomplish: the limestone rocks were excessively
steep, and the river, being confined to a narrow bed, rushed like
a mill-sluice in many places. Now we found the use of our long
towing-ropes. After vainly endeavouring to pole along, we all but two
got out, and, crawling on to a tolerably even spot, passed the tow rope
round a tree, for fear the rush of waters should be too great for our
strength, and then hauled. At one place it took our whole united crews
to get my garei past a deep though dangerous rapid.
After two hours’ severe work, we managed to reach a spot which the men
considered we might safely bring up under; it is a point about forty
feet in height, that promises shelter in case of a heavy fresh, and we
may have that to-morrow, as the rain is pouring now. The advance of the
last half mile was entirely the men’s doing, as at the mouth of the
Tuan, by mismanagement, we got across the stream and came broadside on
to a sunken rock, which nearly upset us. After this I had no desire to
face the rush of waters ahead with tired men, and proposed stopping at
the Tuan, but they said it was not safe. I thought it the perfection of
a resting-place; rocks rising on either side, crowned by noble trees,
whose branches met above, forming a most beautiful and extensive bower.
Of course I was very unwilling to stop, when my followers wished to go
on: so I let them have their own way; but they said afterwards, had
they known what work was before them to get over the next half mile,
they would almost have run the risk of staying at the spot I pointed
out. It did, indeed, strain our muscles to make the advance.
We had a very narrow escape, also, from the stupidity of Orang Kaya
Upit. At one of the worst rapids that we were attempting to pole up, he
got across our bows; and, in trying to avoid running his frail sampir
under water, we let go our hold, and were swept back by the current at
an awful pace. The rebound of the waters from the rocks prevented our
going on them, and saved us from the smash most expected. The Orang
Kaya and his Muruts were very unpopular after this, and my men showed
great unwillingness to aid them; but, as they had assisted us in our
heavy work to get my garei past the rapid, I insisted upon doing the
same for them. To insure the execution of the order, I took the end of
the long towing-rope myself, and passed it round a tree, and put my
Malays on a grassy, but rocky point, which was completely free from
brushwood. There was no difficulty in hauling this light sampir up; but
the two Muruts left in it were clumsy, and, just as it was clear of the
rapid and approached the bank, nearly got their boat across the stream;
though it was swept against the rocks, it was too elastic to receive
much damage.
[Illustration:
T. Picken, lith.
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.
Day & Son, Lith^{rs}. to the Queen.
THE LIMBANG--HAULING PAST THE RAPIDS]
The wind has been from south-west all day, and therefore from Molu. We
have been advancing through very hilly country, which rises abruptly
from the bank: masses of rock continually overshadow the river, which
is now always confined to a very narrow space; it is therefore deeper
and more rapid. Occasionally there were dark pools, with no bottom with
our four-fathom poles. Old Japer missed, or only slightly wounded, a
kijang, a species of roe. Most unlucky sportsman!
_6th._--The expected fresh came on about one a.m.; and as it has
rained all the morning, the water will increase for many hours yet.
There is very good protection where we have secured our boats, though
the river has risen six feet since yesterday, and is now running like
a mill-sluice. We have met with so many obstructions and delays from
these freshes, that I begin to fear we shall not accomplish the object
of our expedition. I shall persevere until we have only three days’
provisions left. Food is the only difficulty, otherwise I would spend
three months in trying to reach the Adang Muruts. The rocks near our
encampment are both limestone and sandstone, the latter uppermost;
their dip is east, angle 82°. There appears to be too much disturbance
of rocks here to render any observations of much value, either with
regard to the stratification or the angle; the rocks are constantly
laminated. My men are employed in making towing-ropes of twisted
rattans; the one for the garei is strong enough to hold a schooner,
but we may want them in the bad rapids. Yesterday we trembled once or
twice, fearing our tow-ropes would part.
At 4 p.m.--The river has not fallen more than two and a half feet since
I marked it at nine a.m. If it rain to-night, we shall lose another day.
It is a cold evening; the gusts of wind occasionally driving the
drizzly rain before it; so I have asked the Muruts to come and have
a glass of whiskey with me. We have had a couple of hours’ talk, and
they have told me innumerable anecdotes of their own lives. Orang Kaya
Upit mentioned an event which occurred to himself not many years ago.
His father and mother-in-law were invited to a feast by the Orang Kaya
Apo: there was great drinking, and at night most of the drunken guests
slept in the house. After some hours, Apo got up and killed Upit’s two
relations in their sleep; perhaps, in revenge of some old injury.
Upit immediately brought his complaint to the Sultan, but no attention
was paid to him. At last one of the men about the court said, “Why
don’t you revenge yourself?” The Sultan laughed, and repeated, “Ah, why
don’t you?” Upit upon this went home and prepared his arms, and for
two years lay in wait in all sorts of places, but he could never find
Apo off his guard. One day, however, he met him in the Trusan river,
returning from the Sultan’s palace, and shot him through the body,
and took his head. Upon this, the Sultan fined him a hundred pikuls
of brass guns (3,000 dols.), not for killing Apo, but for disrespect
to him in shooting a man who had lately left his palace, though the
deed took place twenty miles away. Upit, by great exertions, and by
the assistance of all the neighbouring villages, paid a portion of the
fine. It is an illustration of Bornean government.
_7th._--It appeared a beautiful night, but towards morning it
rained heavily. I turned round in my bed, and made up my mind to lose
another day; but at dawn, finding the river not so rapid as I expected,
I pushed off a few minutes after six a.m., and after an hour’s heavy
work, was rewarded by finding the hills gradually receding from the
banks, thus allowing the river freer scope. As might be imagined, this
was a sign that we had passed the limestone district; gradually it
gave way to sandstone, and with it a more open country. The river soon
became broader, but shallower; and though it necessitated hard work, it
was not to be compared to the difficulties we overcame on the 5th.
During our progress up this river we have kept very much along the
banks, and have had to take great care not to shake snakes into our
boat. These reptiles are constantly found concealed amid the foliage of
fruit-trees, or lying quietly along the branches to catch unwary birds
which seek their food there. In fact, their colours so much resemble
those of the trees, that it is often difficult to distinguish them.
Musa one day pointed to a tree and said, “There is a large snake.” I
could not see it, but on his pointing to it with his sword, I noticed
a brown creature thicker than my arm, coiled round a bough, with its
head resting near a bunch of fruit, waiting the arrival of some unwary
Pargam, the splendid green pigeon of these forests. It looked exactly
of the colour of the bough on which it was resting, and the green
snakes are equally difficult to detect. There is one with large regular
scales, and a triangular head, which is the dread of the native, and if
its poisonous qualities equal its offensive look, it must be a venomous
one indeed. These unpleasant neighbours are, however, rarely seen,
though pretty green flower snakes may be occasionally noticed among
the bushes, or gliding over the blossoms on the look out for insects.
One of a bright green with yellow stripes down its sides is no doubt
a beautiful object, but I dislike snakes of every kind. My men, who
appear to have as strong an antipathy to them, cut at them on every
occasion with their swords.
Land tortoises are continually dropping from the overhanging trunks of
trees as they hear the noise of our paddles. We were once much startled
by a large animal springing from a high bough, and falling with a
heavy splash within a few feet of our boat: it turned out to be a huge
biawak, or guana, which, being alarmed, thus made his escape. The guana
is a species of lizard, growing to a great length, and is the enemy
of our poultry. My dogs once killed one in Brunei which measured six
feet six inches in length. The whole pack attacked it; and while it
was endeavouring to save its tail, a bold dog seized it by the throat,
and held it tight, while the rest of the pack destroyed it. It is the
only instance I have known of dogs facing so large a biawak; but they
were of English breed, and all were ultimately killed by their unwary
attacks on the wild pigs.
The biawaks used very often to pay us a visit at Sarawak, as there
was an extensive poultry yard, and their presence in the day-time was
always announced by the loud cackling of the fowls; if it were a small
one, the cocks and hens would gather round it, and make feigned attacks
upon it, and the beast, almost bewildered by the cries of the circle
of enemies, would raise its head high and take a survey of them, as if
choosing which he should seize. We once succeeded in approaching almost
close to one, thinking we could catch him, as the ground was free from
brushwood, but it quickly outran us, disappearing down a neighbouring
ravine. The Chinese are very fond of its flesh, considering it very
delicate eating.
I have also often been disturbed by the cackling of the fowls, and
going to discover the cause, have found them attacking a snake which
has unwarily ventured in their neighbourhood. I one day saw about
twenty large Cochin cocks and hens surrounding some object, and
approaching near, saw it was a fine cobra, about six feet in length.
The reptile had its head raised nearly a foot, and was making slight
darts at the fowls which ventured near, but unable to do much, for as
soon as it attempted to move, several pecks were made at its tail.
A friend who was standing near, knocked the snake on the head, and
immediately all the inhabitants of the poultry-yard set upon it and
tore it to pieces.
After nine hours’ severe poling and hauling, we came to a stop for the
night at 4.25 p.m. I was desirous to reach the Madihit, but the men
were too exhausted to proceed farther. We have not had a bearing of
Molu for some time; we are anxious for it, in order to determine our
position. I got out all the salt fish that was left, and divided it
among the men, to whom it was most acceptable, as they had had nothing
but rice for many days.
After we had finished our supper, I called the whole party together to
discuss our future proceedings. I explained to them the information
I had been enabled to collect from the Muruts; that we might reach
the Adang landing-place by water, but that as we advanced the country
became more difficult; and that, in the present state of the river, it
was impracticable to face the rapids; that if we attempted the water
way and failed, we must return home, as it was quite impossible to walk
along its bank; the hills were too lofty and far too steep; in fact, no
one would ever attempt it who knew anything of the country. The second
plan was to ascend the Madihit, which could not be very far off--a
mile or two--then leave our boats, and walk across, the Murut guides
assuring us that we could do the distance in seven days. I put it to
the whole party to consider. Musa, after a short consultation, said
they would prefer walking to facing even seven days of such work as we
had had; and as it was two or three days from the Adang landing-place
to the houses, it was better to start at once from the Madihit, leaving
the principal portion of our heavy baggage with the boats. My heart was
slightly despondent yesterday, but to-day’s progress has completely
cheered me up.
Just at sunset, we noticed a few flying foxes far up in the sky; they
seemed very numerous, but were almost beyond view. Sometimes, however,
they fly low, pursuing their onward course with steady flapping wings.
For two hours I watched them at the entrance of the Sibuyau river,
passing us by tens of thousands, and all flying in one direction,
doubtless towards some place where they rest at night. While preparing
their tents, my men disturbed a huge frog that appeared about nine
inches long; it was of a dark gray colour. I was assured, however, that
a full-grown frog was double this size, and if one could judge of their
dimensions by their noise, when they are heard in a marsh, one might
readily believe the Muruts’ account. I remember hearing the late Mr.
Hayes of Siam say that he had seen them there with bodies as large as a
full-sized dinner plate.
_8th._--We found the Madihit to be two miles farther up on the
left bank. The main stream continues broad, and is furnished with
islands and immense pebbly flats, reminding me of the portion near
the Madalam at very low water. The hills are now at some distance
apart, allowing broader and flatter strips of cultivatable land along
the banks. Our last night’s resting-place was quite a level point; we
brought up a little above it, under a jutting portion of the bank,
which was higher, and near it was a beautiful natural bower which would
have afforded shelter for all our boats, had the stream risen high;
some of the men encamped in it. The Madihit, a short distance from the
mouth, is but a shallow, pebbly torrent; and a little more than half
a mile up we were obliged to leave our large garei, and take to the
sampirs, most of the men following along the banks; and now, less than
two miles farther, we have to leave our boats, and take to walking.
We noticed a very handsome tree, whose trunk shoots out almost
horizontally from the banks: its branches rise perpendicularly into the
air, but let fall on either side rows of long drooping twigs, covered
with elegant foliage. It was loaded with fruit, whose long wings are of
a beautiful pink colour, and amid this forest it had a gorgeous effect.
I believe it is of the order _Dipterocarpæ_. There is another very
remarkable one which grows on rocky soil; its bark strips naturally
from the trunk, leaving a brightish brick-red stem.
We have passed yesterday and to-day much young jungle; indeed, except
where the hills are steep, there are few old trees. The fish are very
plentiful in the river, but the rapidity of the stream prevents the
net from acting properly. Just before entering the Madihit, I noticed
a range of high hills, bearing south-east, said to be called the Paya
Paya in Malay, the very difficult hills, and round their base the
Limbang ran.
No rain last night or to-day. I find it impossible to continue writing,
from the cloud of sand-flies that are tormenting me. Having made a
smoky fire, I am at last rid of them. I have divided the remainder of
the rice, and find that the careful men have enough for seven or eight
days, while the improvident have not enough for five; so that they must
carry sago; and, to my regret, Ahtan reports that all my tinmeats are
left at home, but I have enough biscuit for seven days; in fact, I
shall leave some behind me for the journey back. Our sportsmen again
missed both a deer and a pig; so that, after having had every day
many chances, nothing has been secured, though we have with us two of
the most famous hunters in the Limbang. I never had a shot myself, as
my heavy boat was generally behind the others. The rock that forms
the base of many of these karañgans or pebbly rapids is a dark gray
sandstone. By the barometer, we are 637 feet above the level of the
sea, and as we have been toiling up rapids since we left the Damit
stream, it accounts for this elevation.
The men have been working away, forming a cache for the things that we
must leave behind: it is raised on four poles, so as to be quite secure
from pigs.
To show how extensively the Chinese formerly spread over the country, I
may notice that they had pepper plantations even up the Madihit as late
as the remembrance of some of the oldest Muruts.