LIFE IN THE FORESTS
OF
THE FAR EAST.
[Illustration:
F. Jones, lith.
Published by Smith, Elder & C^{o.} 65 Cornhill, London
Day & Son, Lith^{rs} to the Queen
SHOOTING THE CATARACT--LIMBANG RIVER.]
LIFE IN THE FORESTS
OF
THE FAR EAST.
BY
SPENSER ST. JOHN, F.R.G.S., F.E.S.,
FORMERLY H.M.’S CONSUL-GENERAL IN THE GREAT ISLAND OF BORNEO,
AND NOW
H.M.’s CHARGÉ D’AFFAIRES TO THE REPUBLIC OF HAYTI.
_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS._
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.
M.DCCC.LXII.
[_The right of Translation is reserved._]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR TO THE
SOUTH AND SOUTH-EAST OF THE CAPITAL.
PAGE
Preliminary Expeditions--The Limbang River--Stories connected
with it--The Madalam--River flowing under a Pile of
Rocks--Caverns--Batu Rikan--The River issuing from under the
Mountain of Molu--Ascend the Precipices--No Water--Long
Roots--No Soil--Second Expedition--A Flood--Dangerous
Position--Wakeful Night--Beautiful Flowers--Palms and
Rhododendrons--Old Kayan Encampment--Detached Rocks--Ascent of
Molu--Two new Species of Nepenthes--Difficult Climbing--New
Rhododendrons--Stopped by a Precipice--Sharp-edged
Rocks--Descent--Limestone Rock--Cave--Heavy Rain--Swollen
River--Quick Return--Prepare for a distant Expedition--Alarm
of the Brunean Government--Warnings--Preparations--Boats--My
Headman, Musa--A Travelled Dayak--Stories of
Molu--Weapons--Merchandise 1
CHAPTER II.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL.
Start--Discovery of Bones and ancient Ornaments--At the Site
of the Old City--At the Stone Fort--At Sarawak--The Trusan, or
connecting Passage--Apathy of the Government and
People--Sago--Method of preparing it for the Market--The
Limbang River--The Inhabitants--Winding Stream--The Orang Kaya
Upit of Kruei--Sampirs--Gadong Hill--Scenery--Molu--The Raman
Palm--Delays--Cholera--Orang Kaya Napur--Panglima Prang--The
Weather--State of the River--Origin of the Ponds--Native
Geographical Information--The Upper Country--Cataract--Enchanted
Mountain--Native Travelling--Dreams and Omen Birds--Religion of
Pakatans--Cause of Head-hunting--The Wild Boar--Trouble in
procuring Guides--Pengkalan Tarap--Desolation of the
Country--Causes of it--Selling Children--Kayan Barbarity--Chinese
at Batang Parak--Site of Burnt Villages--Posts of Houses--Two
kinds of Sago Palm--Their Growth--Kayan Encampment--Cultivation--The
River--Rocks--Salt Springs--Native Explanation--Anecdote--Time to
halt--Birds--Rare, except in certain
Districts--Monkeys--Alligators--The Man-eater--A Challenge
accepted--Disappearance of the Siol Alligator--Combat with two
in a Cave--Method of Capturing them in Siam--Laying Eggs in the
Jungle--Ducks and Drakes--Malay Cookery--Very tasty--Blachang--How
to make a Curry--Anecdotes of Bornean Rule--Attack on the Limpasong
Village--Insurrection of the Aborigines--Forced Trade--Qualities
necessary in a Malay Ruler--The great Mountain of
Tilong--Discomfort of possessing a large Diamond--Diamonds found
in Borneo 16
CHAPTER III.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_Continued_.
Wet Morning--Wild Cattle--A Night Adventure--View of Molu
Mountain--A Pebbly Flat--Moose Deer--Our Tents--Kayan--Their
Attack--Desolation--Course they pursue to invade these
Districts--Difficulties--Attack the Lepuasing Muruts--Fearful
Retaliation--Attacks on the Villages of the Lower
Limbang--Makota’s Treachery--His Cupidity--Surprise of Balat
Ikan--Alarm Signal--Advance--Fresh Kayan
Marks--Inundations--Unskilful Sportsmen--Difficult
Rapids--The Sertab Hills--Enter the Limestone District--A New
Kayan Hut--High Pork--Effect of Pebbles on the Rock--Agreeable
Evening--Omen Birds--Japer’s Method of easing a sore Heart--The
Punan Tribe--The Spy--The Alligator Omen--The Bird Omen--Attack
the Village--Poisoned Arrows--Destruction of a Tribe--Effect of
such Forays on the Country--The Ghosts on the Tapang
Tree--Numerous Bees’ Nests--Sand Flies--Seribas Omen Bird--The
Salindong--Kayan Resting-place--Traces of Captives
taken--Precautions--Difficulties increase--Limestone
Country--Severe Toil--Accidents avoided--Hauling the
Boats--River narrows--A Fresh--Towing-ropes--Story of the Death
of Orang Kaya Apo--Enter the Sandstone District
again--Broader River--Snakes on Trees--The same Colour as the
Boughs and Foliage--Biawaks or Guanas--A large One--Their
Ways--The Fowls and the Cobra--Heavy Day’s Work--Future
Plans--Two Ways of reaching Adang--The flying Foxes--Huge
Frog--The Madihit--Leave our Boats--Handsome Trees--Appearance
of the Country--Sand Flies--Preparations for the Overland
Journey--Division of Food--Our famous Hunters--A Cache--The
Chinese on the Madihit 49
CHAPTER IV.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_Continued_.
Start on the Land Journey--Our Course--Ascend the Rawan
Torrent--Attacked by Hornets--Native Remedy--Severe Effect of
Sting--Disturbed by Ants--Japer left behind--Fresh Traces of
Strangers in the Forest--Appearance of the Country--Water Snake
killed--Our Adventure with One--The Swimming Cobra--Romantic
but timely Meeting--Story of Pangeran Mumein and the Murut
Concubine--Malay Revenge--Punishment of an Offender--Cause of
the Borneans being converted to Mahomedanism--Capturing the
Daughter of Johore--Independent Position of the Pablat
Borneans--Reach the Wax-seekers’ Hut--Flesh of the Wild
Boar--The Adang Muruts--Their Sumpitans--The Poison on the
Arrows--Melted in hot Water--Weapons purchased, not made by
them--Dress of the Muruts--Japer rejoins us--Continue our
Journey with new Guide--Method of catching Fish--Effect of
Loss of Blood by Leeches--Extraordinary Insect--The Freshwater
Turtle--Its Description--Curious Fly--Poisoning the
River--Getting short of Provisions--Galton’s Method of
dividing Food--Adopt it--Improvidence of the Malays--Cry
of the Wahwah--Rejoin the Limbang--Omen Bird--Prepare for
Enemies--Quarrel among the Guides--Divide the Party--Hard
Walking--The Otter--A Fight with my Dogs--Still beyond the
Mountain--Find good Huts--The Stragglers--The last of the
Food--Ascend the Mountains--Exhaustion of the Guides--The
Remains of the Ham--Its Effects--Reach the Summit--Descend to
the Farms--Meet the Adang Muruts--Hearty
“Welcome--Names--Recent History of these Villagers--Kayan
Attacks--Driven from the Limbang--The Geography of the
Country--The Houses--Cold, and Fire-places--Arrival of my
Followers--Sir James Brooke--The Friend of the
Aborigines--His Fame had preceded me--How Reports spread--The
Tigers’ Cave--Curious Story 80
CHAPTER V.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_Continued_.
Women’s Ornaments--Adorning in Public--Confidence shown
by a young Girl--Geography--Leech Bites--Tapioca--The
Manipa Stream--The False and True Brayong--Nothing
but Rice to be purchased--Wild Raspberries--Good Shots--The
Rifle Carbine--Death of a Kite--Picking a Cocoa-nut--Curious
Statement--A Village of Runaways--Proposed Slave
Hunt--Disappointment--Appearance of the Women--Old Look of the
Children--Devoid of Drapery--Preparing the Plantations--No
Goods for Sale--Edible Bird’s-nest Cave--Difficulties in
penetrating farther--Determine to return--Climate--New
Route--Custom in Drinking similar to the Chinese--Anecdote of
Irish Labourers--Change of Plans--Fashion of wearing Brass
Wire--Start on a Tour among the Villages--The Burning
Path--Village of Purté--Refreshing Drink--The Upper
Trusan--Distant Ranges--Inviting and receiving
Invitations--Fatal Midnight Revel--Tabari’s Village--Alarm
of Orang Kaya Upit--Suspension Bridge--Inhabitants--Scheme
of the Adangs to return to their old Districts--Deers’
Horns--Mourning--Difficult Walking--The Tiger’s Leap--Meet Si
Puntara--No Real Enemies--Murud--The Gura Peak--The Main
Muruts--Salt as well as Slave Dealers--Bearskin Jacket--White
Marble--Uncertainty whence procured--Leaden
Earrings--Unbecoming Custom--Lofty Mountains--Lawi
Cloud-hidden--Muruts busy Farming--Two Harvests a
Year--Agricultural Produce plentiful--Obtain a Goat--Dress of
the Men--Bead Petticoats--Custom of burying on the Tops of
the Lofty Hills--Desecration of Graves--Jars--Discovery of one
in Brunei--Similar Millanau Customs 109
CHAPTER VI.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_Continued_.
Commence the return Journey--Kayan Embassy--Indian
Corn--Confidence of the People--Ophthalmia--Old
Jar--Gratitude rarely shown--Anecdote--Warning to Amateur
Doctors--Bezoar Stones--Arrangements at Si Lopong’s--A
Nightcap--Desertion of our Guides--Murut Music--Start
for the Adang--Warned of Difficulties--Abundance of
Rice--Cross the Adang Mountains--Active Girls--The
Anœctochilus--Attack of Fever--Arrangements in case of
its continuance--Loss of Chamber to Revolver--Reach
the Adang--Legend--Construct four Rafts--Pleasant
Movement--Trying Position of one of the Men--The first
Rapid passed--Difficulties at the second--Bold Swimmer--A
Whirlpool--Danger of Drowning--Our Raft tested--Abandoned--The
rest wrecked--Pass the Umur--Reach the Limbang--Construct
fresh Rafts--Uneasy Anticipations--Heavy Fresh--Fine Specimen
of a Raft--Push off--Dangers and Troubles--The Rafts
ungovernable--The Roaring of Waters--Overhanging Cliffs--The
Cataract--Awe of the Men--Shoot the Cataract--Narrow Escape--Its
Height--The Men recover their Voice--Ineffectual Attempts
to stop the Raft--Caught in a Whirlpool--Safety--Arrival
of the other Rafts--Dangers ahead--Walk--Abandon the
Rafts--State of Provisions--Nearly all consumed--Ahtan’s
Secret Store--Rocks--Advance over the Kalio Hills--Sparing
the Food--Exhausting climbing--“Jog on”--Feed on the Cabbages
of the Bengkala Palm--Almost a Mutiny--Facing the
Difficulty--Reach the Summit of the Paya Paya, or “very
difficult” Hills--Night on the Summit--Our Tent--The last
Fowl--Molu--The greatest Difficulties passed--Country more
open--Follow the Banks of the River--Distress of the
Men--Improvidence--Curious Sounds in the old Forests--Cry of
the Argus Pheasant--Of the Jelatuk--Rending of a Mighty
Tree--Danger from Decaying Trees--Cock-fights among the Argus
Pheasants 131
CHAPTER VII.
MY LIMBANG JOURNAL--_Concluded_.
Stopped for a Day--Five Start for Provisions--The Sick Men
left behind join us--No Shoes--Weakness from want of
Food--Leeches--Stop again--Collect Food--Anecdote of Female
Orang Utan and Murut--Again construct Rafts--Present of a Cup
full of Rice--Start on the Rafts--Abandon them--A Bear--The
River--Immense Pebbly Flats--Long Walks--Traces of the Advance
Party--Wild Fruit--Sour Oranges--Recognize a Hill--Fruit of
the Jintawan, or India-rubber Plant--Find Remains of
Bees’-nest--The British Flag--Reach the Madihit--Bad Conduct
of the Advance Party--Food nearly all consumed--An unfeeling
Father--Proposed Punishment--Ravages of the Bears--Anecdote
of Ahtan--Return in the Boats--The Herd of Wild Cattle--Wound
a Bull, but do not get it--A slight Supper--Start in a
Sampir--Ahtan ill--The last of the Food--News from
Brunei--Reach the Town--Arrival of the rest of the
Party--Bornean travelling--Measure Distance by Fatigue--Slow
Progress necessary--Active Murut--Average Rate of
Advance--Great Mistakes made in the Estimates of
Distance--Instances--Mr. Motley’s Account of his advance up the
Limbang--Mr. De Crespigny’s Mistakein the Latitude of the River
Damit and Position of the Mountain of Molu--Remarks on the
Map--Causes of the continued Health of my Followers--The
Tents--Mistake in trusting to Native Huts--Native Geographical
Information tested--Found correct--Arrival of the Orang Kaya
Upit--Tragical Death of Pangeran Mokata, the Shabandar--Two
Years after--Sad Fate of a Party of Adang Muruts--Murder by
Orang Kaya Gomba--Head-hunting--Heads valued, but none
seen--Incident of meeting Head-hunters--No treacherous
Designs--Inefficient Government--Desecration of the
Graveyards--Chinese Secret Societies, or Hués--Ahtan joins
one--Robbery of the Iron Chest from the Consulate--The Sultan’s
Method of extorting a Confession--Obstinacy of Ahtan--Officers
of the Secret Society--Chest restored--Prisoners released--The
Hué broken up--Treatment of Prisoners--Musa and the
Priest--Threats--Personal Regard for some of my Followers 154
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.
FIRST VISIT.
Picturesque Islands--Balambañgan--An old English
Settlement--Large Monkeys--Optical Illusions--Flights of
Birds--The Curlew--The way we shot them in
Sarawak--Game--Banguey--Mali Wali--Cleared Hills--Fine
Water--Sweet-smelling Jasmine--Cagayan Sulu--Intercourse with
the Inhabitants--Appearance of the Country--Lovely
Scenery--Market--Inhabitants--Insolent Traders--The Crater
Harbour--Wall of Evergreen--Inner Lake--Climb the
Cliff--Scenery--Alligators numerous--Sulu--Appearance
from the Ship--Sugh, the Capital--Mr. Wyndham--The
Watering-place--Suspicious Natives--Fugitives from
Balignini--Reports--A Market--The Mountaineers civil--Walk
to the Palace--The Stockades--Armed Crowd--Audience
Hall--Absurd Reports--The Sultan and his
Nobles--Dress--Politeness of the Sultan--Return to the
Ship--Datu Daniel--The Racecourse--Effect of Dutch
Shot--Tulyan Bay--Alarm of Villagers--Sulu
Government--Laws--Feuds--The Mahomedan and the
Pork--Population--Fighting-men--Slave Market--Dignified
carriage of the Nobles--Dress--The Balignini--Dutch
Attack--Appearance of the Country--Good position of
Island--Tulyan--Basilan--Numerous Islets--Samboañgan --Spanish
Convict Settlement--Description of
Country--Fort--Town--Shops--The Church--The Men--The Women--The
Corner Shop--A Ball--Dancing difficult--Waltzes--Supplies
at Saraboañgan--A lonely Grave 178
CHAPTER IX.
THE SULU ISLANDS.
SECOND VISIT.
Reach Sugh--Mr. Wyndham comes on board--His News--Commercial
Rivalry--The Stockades--Visit the Audience Hall--Appearance
of the Sultan--Visit Datu Daniel’s Stockaded House--Guns--Datu
Daniel--Appearance of the principal Chamber--The
Bed--Boxes--Property--General look of
Discomfort--Spittoons--Dismounted Iron Guns--Taken from the
English--Excitement in the Town--Hereditary Hatred of the Sulus
to the Spaniards--Their Treaty with Spain--Sandakan
Bay--Supplies--Variegated Wood--Salute--English popular--An
Exception--Death of a Sulu Lady from Grief--The Rumah
Bechara--A Ship taken--Interview with the Sultan--Rope--Character
of Datus--The Balignini--Capture an English Ship--Captives
brought to Sulu--Result of the Action of the Nemesis--The
Lanuns--At Magindanau and Cape Unsang--A narrow Escape--Mate to
Lord Cochrane--Capture of the _Maria Frederica_--Cold-blooded
Murder of the Captain--Jilolo Prahus--Their Rencontre with Sir
Edward Belcher--Pirates off the Arru Group--Sulu
Justice--Appearance of the People--Attack on the Spanish
Gunboats--Public Audience with the Sultan--Private Visit to
the House of his Bride--The Women--Opium-smoking--Invitation
to revisit Sulu--The Spanish Gunboats--Samboañgan--The Corner
Shop--Sunday’s Amusements--Appearance of the
Neighbourhood--A Breakfast in the Country--Long Walks--People
comfortable--Story of the Loss and Re-capture of
the _Dolphin_--The _Dolphin_ sails for Maludu
Bay--Quarrels--Surprised--Death of Mr. Burns and the
Captain--Murder of a Woman--Injury to Trade--Datu Badrudin’s
Monopolies--The Tungku Pirates--Visit the chief Town
of Maludu--Sherif Hasin’s Account of the Surprise of the
_Dolphin_--The Re-capture of the Vessel by Sherif
Yasin--Arrival at Benggaya--_Dolphin_ delivered up--Visit the
Village of Sherif Yasin--His Appearance--His Account of the
Re-capture--His Position--Smoking over Powder--Delivery of the
Cargo--Return to the Ship--Argus Pheasants--Meet with Baju
Boats--Pearl Fishers--Retaliation--Fishing for Pearls--Mr.
Edwardes’ Pearl--Story of the Datu, and his great good
Fortune--The Mermaid Pearl--Present State of Piracy on the
North-West Coast--Cruise of the Balignini in 1861--Ransom of
Inchi Ngah--Names of present Haunts of the Balignini--A
Mangrove Swamp--Present System of Balignini--Escape of a
Native--The Lanuns--A Dayak’s Experience--A Slave
Mart--Spanish Attack on Sugh--Severe Fight--Bravery of the
Sulus--Capture of the Town--The Sulu Government retire to the
Hills, and refuse to submit--A Teak Forest burnt--No Teak in
Borneo--Elephants extinct in Sulu 200
CHAPTER X.
THE KINGDOM OF BORNEO PROPER.
Its Nominal Extent--Its Government--The Sultan--The
Viziers--The Shabandar--The inferior Officers--Their
Influence--“The Abode of Peace”--Poverty-stricken
Gentlemen--Possessions of the Nobles--The Country parcelled
out among them--Distant Dependencies becoming
independent--Oppression of the surrounding
Districts--Divisions among the Nobles--Poverty of the
Nobles--Population of Brunei--System of Plunder--Sale of
Children--Handsome Brass Guns--Their Fate--No Justice--Crime
nominally punished--No Possibility of
Improvement--Anecdotes--System of Local Self-government--The
Parishes--Their Names, and the Occupation of their
Inhabitants--Fishing--Shell Heaps--Asylum--Treatment of a Slave
Girl--Political Parties--Religious Schism--An attempted
Explanation--Followers of each Party--Difference of Length of
Fast Month--Visiting the Graves of Ancestors--A pretty
Custom--Search after Excitement--Story Tellers--Conjurors--Their
Arts--Practice of Abortion--The Egg-cooking Trick--The Sultan’s
Palace--Its Inhabitants--His Wife and his Concubines--Their
Treatment--Bold Lovers--Anecdote--Tragical Termination--The
Women deceive their Lords--The Inverted Language--Education
neglected--Sight of a Harim--Mutual Disappointment--Rajah’s
pleasant Companions--Their Customs--Tenacious of Rank--Decay of
Brunei--Exactions suffered by the Aborigines--The
Kadayans--Tradition--Hill Men united--Commotion--Kadayans have
great Influence--Lovely Country--Kadayans removed to
Labuan--Short Description of that Colony--Excellent
Position--Coal--Telegraphic Communication--Good
Effect of our Colony--Trade
Increasing--Pepper--Exports--Cotton--Fine Jungle--Method
of Collecting the Camphor and the Gamboge in
Siam--The Coal-fields--Revenue of the Sultan--Brunei
Government no Power--Crime unpunished--A Bold Thief--Makota
and the Fire--Nominal Punishments--Cutting off the Hand--The
Fall of Ashes--Singing Fish--Curious Method of Catching
Prawns--Tuba Fishing--Superstition--Money--Coinage of
the Capital--Cloth--Iron--Gun-metal--Good Manufactures
of Brass Ordnance--A 12-pounder--Similarity of Customs--The
Sultan--The Heir to his Subjects--Makota and his Gold 244
CHAPTER XI.
SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.
First Visit--Appearance of the Country--Scenery--Lovely
Isles--Turtle--Method of securing their Eggs--Their
Enemies--Fish--The Dugong--Method of capturing them--Graves
of Englishmen at Po Point--First Evening in Borneo--A Welcome
to the Rajah--Boats--Salute and Manning Yards--The Muaratabas
Entrance--The River--The Town of Kuching--Sunset--Arrival--A
noisy Procession--Extent of Sarawak--A well-watered Country--The
Rejang--Extent of fertile Soil adapted to Sugar--Its
Inhabitants--Different Races and Tribes--Population--Kuching,
the Capital--Increase--Trade--Sago Districts--Cotton--Seed sent
by the Cotton Supply Association--Imported Labour
required--Increased Production--Inferior Cultivation--Soil
adapted to most Tropical Productions--Water
Communication--Minerals--Coal, Antimony, and Gold--Indications
of other Minerals--Former Condition of the Country--Difficulties
of Management--Forced Trade--Comfortable Position of the
Dayaks--Influence of New System on the Malays--Distant
Voyages--Remarkable Honesty--Anecdote--System of
Government--An unteachable Chief--Sons of Patinggi Ali--Their
good Conduct--Effect of associating the Natives in the
Government--The System introduced into all the
Dependencies--Effect of Sir James Brooke’s
Government--Anecdote of an old Chief--Gradual
Developments--Necessity for Support--The Chinese an Industrious
and Saving Nation--Soundness in the System of
Government--England with a Chinese Colony--Future of
Borneo--Chinese amalgamate with Native Population--Female
Emigration from China--Administration of Justice--The Sarawak
Courts--Character of the Malays 280
CHAPTER XII.
THE CHINESE IN BORNEO.
Intercourse between China and the Northern Part of
Borneo--References to the Chinese--Names of Places and
Rivers--Sites of Gardens and Houses--One of the original
Settlers--The Sultan’s Recollections--Chinese numerous in his
Youth--Reasons for their Disappearing--Anecdote of a Murut
Chief--Aborigines speaking Chinese--Mixed Breed--Good
Husbands--Chinese at Batang Parak--At Madihit--Pepper
Planters--Origin of the Borneans--Chinese Features observed
also among the Aborigines--Careful Agriculture--A remnant of
Chinese Teaching--Traditions of a Chinese Kingdom--Effect of
Treaty with Brunei--Unsuccessful attempt to revive Pepper
Planting--Chinese scattering on the North-west coast--A Spark
of Enlightenment--Attempt to prevent Intercourse between the
Chinese and Aborigines--Decay of Junk Trade--Cochin
Chinese--Conduct of the Chinese--Papar--Anecdote--Fatal result
of Insulting a Woman--Skirmish--Misrepresented in
Labuan--Question of British Protection to the Chinese--Their
Insolence--Anecdote--Unpleasant Position--A Check--Difficulty
of obtaining Information--Cause of former Disputes--Insurrection
of the Chinese of Brunei--Sarawak--Early efforts of the Chinese
to establish themselves there--Lawless Malays--A
Murder--Retaliation--Defeat of the Chinese--Arrival of Sir
James Brooke--Mixed Breed in Sambas--Form Self-governing
Communities--Defeat of the Dutch Forces--Subjugation of the
Chinese--The Pamangkat Agriculturists--Flight into
Sarawak--Change in the appearance of the Country--Mission
School--Visit the Interior--Kunsis, or Gold Companies--Appearance
of the Country--Method of Gold-working--The Reservoir--The
Ditch--The Sluice--Wasteful method of working--Abundance of
Gold--Impetus--Failure of first Agricultural Schemes--A great
Flood--Troublesome Gold-workers--Successful Scheme--Disturbance
in Sambas--Flight of Chinese--Illiberal Regulation--Tour
through the Chinese Settlements--Agriculture--Siniawan--Chinese
Workings--Hot Spring--Gold at Piat in Quartz--Antimony
Works--Extensive Reservoirs--Arrival of Chinese from
Sambas--Denial by the Kunsi--Hard Work at the Gold
Diggings--Scenery--Path to Sambas--Chinese Station--Numbers
of the Chinese before the Insurrection 308
CHAPTER XIII.
THE CHINESE INSURRECTION.
Secret Societies--Extensive Intercourse--Smuggling--The
Gold Company Fined--Punishment of Three of its
Members--Arrogance of the Kunsi--A Police Case--Real Causes
of the insurrection--An Emissary from the Tien Ti Secret
Society--Reported Encouragement given by the Sultan of
Sambas--Sambas Nobles speak Chinese--Their Nurses--The Nobles
Conspiring--An Emissary arrives in Brunei--Proposal--Knowledge
of the Intended Insurrection--Proposed Attack on the
Consulate--The Tumanggong’s Threat--The Emissary before the
Court--Letter from the Tien Ti Hué--Rumours of Intended
Insurrection--Preparations and Inquiries--Commencement of the
Revolt--Useless Warnings--Surprise of the Government House--
Danger of the Rajah--Cowardice of the Chinese--Escape--Swims
the River--Death of Mr. Nicholets--Attacks on the other
Houses--On the Stockade--Gallant Conduct of Mr. Crymble and the
Malay Fortmen--Warm Reception of the Rebels--Death of a
Madman--A Bravo Corporal--Escape of Mr. Crymble--His last
Blow--Fortmen again behave well--Confusion in the Town--Peaceful
Assurances--Attempt to organize a
Defence--Panic-striken--Departure--Conduct of the People--Next
Morning--Killed and Wounded--The Chinese in Power--The
Court-house--A Check to Joy--Oath of Fidelity--Courage Shown by
Abang Patah--A Blow struck--Second Descent of the
Chinese--A Boat Action--Gallant Attack--Deaths--Anecdote--The
Second Retreat--The Town in Flames--The Steamer--The Capital
recovered--Pursuit of the Chinese--They retire to the
Interior--Attacks of the Land Dayaks--Foray of the
Chinese--Their Fort taken by the Datu
Bandhar--Pursuit--Disorderly Retreat--Critical Position--Brave
Girls--Pass the Frontier--The Men of the Kunsi--A
Quarrel--Stripped of Plunder--Results of the Insurrection--Forces
at the Disposal of the Sarawak Government--Conduct of the
People--Disastrous to the Chinese--New System--Arrival of Armed
Chinese from Sambas--Dutch and English Assistance--Revisit
Sarawak--Change--Conduct of the Rajah--Its Effect on the
People--Secret Society at Labuan--Dangers from the Secret
Societies and their Defenders--Curious Incident--Thoughtful
Care of the Rajah 336
CHAPTER XIV.
THE MISSIONS: ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT.
Arrival of the Roman Catholic Mission in Labuan--Signor
Cuarteron its Head--Curious Reports--His real History--Finding
the Treasure--Turns Priest--Ostensible Object of the
Mission--Not attempted--Ease with which Captives could
escape--No Inclination to do so--Turned Mahomedans--Return of
Signor Cuarteron--Courtesy of the Brunei Government--Intentions
of the Italian Priest--Model Village--The Italian Priests--The
Churches--Old Battery--Regret at the Withdrawal of the Roman
Catholic Mission--Protestant Mission at Sarawak--Present
Condition--Comparative Failure--Partial Success at Lingga
and Lundu--Mr. Chalmers and the Land Dayaks--Causes of his
Influence--Mistake in establishing the Mission at Kuching--The
Reasons--Objectionable Position for Schools--Proper Position
for the Mission--Suitable Spots--Waste of Funds in Boats and
Plantations--Deplorable Secession of Missionaries--Reasons to
account for it--Present Management faulty--Mr. Gomez in
Lundu--Christian Dayaks warn the Government--Missionaries
always welcome in Sarawak--Important political effect--The
Church should be among the Dayaks--Suitable Men for
Missionaries--What the Head of a Mission should be--What he
too often is, and should not be--Five Recommendations to
increase Efficiency--Unoccupied Room for a great Increase of
the Number of Missionaries--Method of distributing
them--Personal Character--Dayaks an interesting Race--A Tribe
half Mahomedans half Pagans--Use of eating Pork--Districts
unoccupied--Position of the Missionary in Sarawak--The
Bornean Mission an important one 365
APPENDICES.
APPENDIX A.--Dayak Languages. Sambas to Batang Lupar 383
„ B.--Ditto. Batang Lupar to Rejang 392
„ C.--Languages of Tribes between the Rejang and
the Baram 399
„ D.--Languages of Northern Borneo 407
„ E.--Lanun Language 417
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.
I. Shooting the Cataract.--Limbang River _Frontispiece_
II. The Trunan issuing from the Batu Barit
Mountain _To face page_ 3
III. Hauling past the Rapids „ 70
IV. Murut Bridge.--Tabari’s Village „ 123
V. Government House, Sarawak „ 280
VI. Lundu Church „ 370
MAP.
I. Map of the Limbang and Baram Rivers _To face page_ 1
[Illustration]
LIFE IN THE
FORESTS OF THE FAR EAST.
CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR TO THE
SOUTH AND SOUTH-EAST OF THE CAPITAL.
Preliminary Expeditions--The Limbang River--Stories
connected with it--The Madalam--River flowing under a Pile
of Rocks--Caverns--Batu Rikan--The River issuing from under
the Mountain of Molu--Ascend the Precipices--No Water--Long
Roots--No Soil--Second Expedition--A Flood--Dangerous
Position--Wakeful Night--Beautiful Flowers--Palms and
Rhododendrons--Old Kayan Encampment--Detached Rocks--Ascent of
Molu--Two new Species of Nepenthes--Difficult Climbing--New
Rhododendrons--Stopped by a Precipice--Sharp-edged
Rocks--Descent--Limestone Rock--Cave--Heavy Rain--Swollen
River--Quick Return--Prepare for a distant Expedition--Alarm
of the Brunean Government--Warnings--Preparations--Boats--My
Headman Musa--A Travelled Dayak--Stories of
Molu--Weapons--Merchandise.
In December, 1856, I made a short excursion up the Limbang River,
and the wonders there told of its far interior strongly excited my
curiosity. The natives were full of stories of the river forcing its
way for miles under huge masses of rock, which formed a natural tunnel,
called by the Malays “Batu berkejang,” or stone-roofed; of a cataract
formed by the whole river falling over a ledge of rocks for a depth
of nine fathoms; of the smooth water beyond this which stretched for
a seven days’ journey, flowing gently through a vast table-land; of
the tame goats without masters which thronged this region--but I could
find no one who had seen any of these wonders--in fact, few Malays had
passed Suñgei Damit, a river about three days’ journey from the capital.
In the following September I went with a small party up the right-hand
branch of the river, the Madalam, to endeavour to reach the lofty
mountain of Molu, and found that one of the stories told by the natives
had some foundation. We followed the Madalam till we reached the Trunan
on the eighth day, up which we pushed, thinking it led to the base of
the highest peak of Molu. We soon came upon limestone rock, and after a
few miles were suddenly stopped by the river, I may say, disappearing.
We found a rocky eminence before us, its sharp angles concealed by
ferns and climbing plants falling in festoons around, and a luxuriant
vegetation of trees, whose bark was coated with mosses, orchids, and
other epiphytal plants. There was an arched cavern into which we pushed
our boats; at first we failed to find the inlet through which the
stream entered, but at last, looking down into the clear water, we saw
two huge holes below--the passages from whence the river came. We went
round to the southern side of the rock, and there we found the river
coming purling along to this lofty wood-crowned mass of limestone, and
then entering a spacious hall it was lost, descending, as it were,
to the passages before mentioned. There were various chambers with
water floors, to the surface of which fine fish occasionally arose.
This place is called Batu Rikan.
[Illustration:
T. Picken, lith.
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.
Day & Son, Lith^{rs}. to the Queen.
THE TRUNAN ISSUING FROM BATU BARIT MOUNTAIN.]
We stayed here a night, during which it rained heavily, making the
stream that yesterday but washed our ancles, swell so that it was
impossible to cross it. We therefore kept along the right bank, till
we reached the spot where the whole river issued from the face of the
precipice; it was a fine sight, this body of water running impetuously
from this natural tunnel. On either side lofty trees arose, and above
the precipice the green verdure spread in masses.
Our Bisayan guide, the Orang Kaya Panglima Prang, of the village of
Blimbing, told us that during fine weather, we could penetrate a long
distance under the mountain, though few had ever ventured to do so, on
account of the very sudden way in which the water rises. Finding we
could not cross the stream near the mountain, we skirted the precipice,
which the Bisayas told us it was impossible to climb; but I determined
on making the attempt, not crediting the truth of one of their
objections that we should find no water on the mountain after the heavy
rain which fell the previous night.
I led the way up the rock by a most difficult ascent, and after
climbing these perpendicular precipices by means of the roots of
trees, at length reached easier ground, but found the whole mountain
a mass of honeycombed limestone rock, with trees scattered over the
uneven surface, whose roots penetrated to an immense distance below. I
endeavoured, by descending into the deep fissures, to find some water,
and in doing so, traced a root above two hundred feet; it then entered
a narrow crevice, too small to admit me; the root was still larger than
my arm.
As there is no real soil on the mountain, this fine vegetation must
derive its support from the air, the moisture in the thick moss, and
the rotting leaves which sometimes lay in tangled damp masses, almost
decayed into a black mould. We climbed about a thousand feet, but
found no streams or pools, and were therefore compelled to descend.
On our return to the Capital, we had the misfortune to lose my boat
on a snag, and had a three days’ walk in the jungle through difficult
sandstone mountains, and then we constructed a raft and floated down
the river, till we met the Orang Kaya Panglima Prang, whom I had sent
for relieving boats.
In February, 1858, Mr. Low and I again attempted the ascent of Molu,
taking the Orang Kaya Panglima Prang as our guide, though neither he
nor any one else knew more of the mountain than they had gathered
during my former journey.
On the sixth day we reached the entrance of the Madalam without
difficulty, and brought up for the night on a bank of gravel and
pebbles, where there were traces of coal among the hard gray sandstone
nodules, and broken quartz. All the country we had hitherto seen
belongs to the Labuan coal measures, and the dip is steep, about 45°,
and is to the east of north.
In the evening, heavy rain came on, when the river began to rise
rapidly, and rush by us with a strong current. The men had pitched
their tents on the pebbly bank, while we stayed in the boats; we had
had a heavy day’s work, and our followers were so fatigued that they
fell asleep immediately. The rain continued pouring down. About two
hours after sunset I heard a shout, and found the water was overflowing
the tents, and rushing down the opposite side of the river like a mill
sluice, carrying along with it huge trunks of trees. With extreme
difficulty we awoke the men, and it was a work of greater difficulty
to keep them from getting into the boats before they were properly
secured. I jumped out, and soon discovered the reason; the water coming
from the lofty heights of Molu was icy cold; my teeth chattered so that
I could scarcely give an order, and the river rose so fast, that very
soon it was impossible to remain on the bank.
We none of us slept that night, our boats swayed to and fro in the
angry waters which now rushed impetuously over the point, and knowing
that we had but a small rope holding us, we feared every moment to
see it part and find our boats dashed over a neighbouring fall. In
the morning we observed by rough measurement that the water had risen
twenty-four feet. As the river continued too rapid to be contended
against, we employed next day in manufacturing strong rattan ropes. It
took us five days more to reach our camping-ground at the foot of the
mountain, a journey which in ordinary times might have been done in two.
We passed during our advance up the Madalam many curious and beautiful
plants; among others, a very elegant little palm, with finely-divided
pinnated leaves, and a stem about a foot high; it grew in tufts on
the banks, within the influence of the rise of the waters. Mr. Low
found also a beautiful climber with white flowers, in bunches, on the
_axils_ of the leaves, with a very fragrant scent; and also a
curious rhododendron, with terminal single pale yellow flowers an inch
and a half across on pendent branching stems, epiphytal in moss on
many of the trees overhanging the water; but what I admired most was a
rhododendron with large bunches of straw-coloured blossoms. It grew on
the trees, and the flower, as it gracefully bent over us, looked both
showy and beautiful. Here, too, Mr. Low discovered three new species
of the areca palm, and was enabled to secure the seeds of two: one of
them had a curious mottled foliage, another had a dark green stem, with
white sheaths to the leaves, which were most delicately fashioned, the
leaflets being linear, and not more than an eighth of an inch broad. I
may further notice that at the mouth of the Limbang River grows in the
marshes a beautiful fan-palm, which at a distance might, from its size,
be mistaken for a fine cocoa-nut tree.
We reached the Batu Rikan in safety, and passed round it, through a
small rivulet, improved into a sort of canal by the Kayans, above which
we brought up at an old Kayan encampment on the left. We had here a
good view of the range, which is a mass of limestone, and the ascent
to the summit is at an angle of 70°; impossible to ascend over any
other kind of rock than limestone, the water-worn surfaces of which
usually present so many prominent points as to render these precipices
practicable. The mountain appears to be covered with vegetation to the
precipitous summit, and even on the almost bare rocks shrubs could be
seen clinging to the crevices.
Round the base of the mountain are detached masses of limestone, much
water-worn, with caverns and natural tunnels, with the ground around
covered by the tracks of pigs and deer. At the base of the mountain the
soil is a yellow loam, with many water-worn sandstone pebbles on its
surface.
I do not intend dwelling on this expedition, as I only kept an account
of the geographical features of the country, though Mr. Low has kindly
placed his interesting journal at my disposal to refresh my memory. I
will, however, briefly indicate the character of the mountain.
We left our encampment and struck through the jungle to a spot that
a previous examination made me consider the easiest way to pass the
precipices. The rocks looked like broken masses which had fallen from
above, presenting sharp points and edges dangerous to our unshod men.
It was climbing, not walking, our hands being as much used as our feet.
We ascended about 800 feet, when we found ourselves on a sharp edge
with a valley beyond, and then descended about forty feet by means
of roots, and after a painful advance made preparations to pass the
night there, as our men were lagging. We could, however, nowhere find
a smooth place broad enough to set up our tents; so threw poles across
the rocks and heaped boughs and leaves on them, and on sticks above
spread our piled cotton tents.
We advanced next day over rather easier ground, and found more
vegetable mould between the rocks; the trees were large, and among them
I had seen on the previous day troops of reddish monkeys, equal in size
to the small kind of orang-utan. We could find no water except such
as could be obtained from squeezing the moss, or from the pitchers of
two new kinds of nepenthes. It was on the third day that Mr. Low came
upon them, after passing a deep gorge, and up a steep and fatiguing
ascent over craggy cliffs, everything being covered with long wet
moss. There were two kinds; the specimens, unfortunately, were lost
by the men:--the first was shaped something like a claret jug, with a
quadrilateral stem, and was of a pale green, except on the inside of
the pitcher, which was purplish--the pitchers themselves were about ten
inches long, and did not show the lower part in perfection except when
full-grown. The next kind was growing half buried beneath the moss,
and creeping closely along the stems of trees; its pitchers had a very
peculiar mouth, with an edge like a frill. Its stem was rough with
brown hairs, the leaves broad and short, and it was distinguished from
all others we had yet seen, by the leaves, which are close above one
another, giving off always to the right and left, and not on all sides
of the stem as in the other species; they lie also very close; its
stem was at most three feet long; the pitcher was about nine inches in
length, not including the lid.
Mr. Low, the Orang Kaya, and myself, led our party, but the ascent was
getting worse every yard. We worked our way over the most dangerous
places, where a false step would have broken our necks or limbs, or
have cut us to pieces on the sharp rocks; as we advanced, precipices
and broad deep fissures became more frequent, one of the latter we
crossed on a small tree four inches in diameter, which the Orang Kaya
felled for the purpose. It bent beneath us, and was so uncertain a
footing, that I was thankful to have passed it, as the deep chasm
below was filled with jagged rocks. The Malay description of it is
true--“sharp axes below, and pointed needles above, such is the
mountain of Molu.”
It is curious that although we were only 3,500 feet above the level of
the sea, this region resembled what is found on Kina Balu at from 5,000
to 8,000 feet, where shrubs with beautiful flowers abound.
Mr. Low discovered two very interesting little rhododendrons here.
They were epiphytal, of a character different from any he had seen
elsewhere; they had short brown lanceolate leaves, almost an inch long,
in _whorls_ of four or five, on branching brownish stems. Their
flowers were terminal and solitary, and about an inch and a half long;
one was whitish, the other a pinkish purple, and both were remarkably
pretty.
I was leading the way, when I saw a precipice before me which appeared
to be impassable; it ran across the spur we were ascending, and
extended to the ravines on either side. At last we noticed a narrow
fissure, and by supporting myself on the sharp points of rocks, and
steadying myself by a small root, I reached to within six feet of the
top. To get up the rest of the way was not very difficult, but to
get down again appeared unpleasant, and beyond rose a succession of
precipices. As the side of the mountain was at an angle of 70°, it was
easy to see a long way ahead of us. As I stood balancing myself, it
struck me as an impossibility to take loaded men up such places, so I
hailed Mr. Low, who was already commencing the ascent of the precipice,
to stop till I came down to consult. Two of my most active men, Musa
and another, volunteered to go ahead and explore, and we waited for
them at the foot of the precipice, and took observations.
It is almost impossible to conceive the difficulty of ascending this
mountain. While we were waiting here, a comparatively smooth spot, we
could find no place broad enough for the stand of the barometer, but
were obliged to construct a framework of sticks. No ledge was more than
six inches broad, and Mr. Low made me nervous by walking out on some
not an inch wide whilst in search of flowers or shells. In fact, at one
place my shoe was cut through, and three of our men had already been
sent back with severe wounds, whilst several of those left were much
injured.
Musa at last joined us with the intelligence that about one hundred
yards beyond there was a precipice, which he and his companion had
found it impossible to pass; so, very unwillingly, we turned our faces
homeward.
Descending was more dangerous than ascending, and Mr. Low got two
severe falls, as his eyes were not always on the next spot to place
his foot, but wandering about in search of plants. I escaped better,
as my thoughts were engrossed by the difficulties and dangers of the
path. It is curious that when these sharp rocks were struck they gave
out a clear ringing, almost metallic, sound; there is no appearance of
stratification: the rocks are of a fine-grained limestone, and some,
when broken, presented a pinkish, others a whitish or grayish blue
colour.
We noticed during our ascent a cave in the limestone rock about forty
feet high, and the roots of the trees growing on the rock above came
down perpendicularly and passed into the fissures in the stones that
formed the floor. Their upper parts were encrusted with carbonate of
lime in the form of stalactites. Water was continually dripping from
the roof of the cave, and in one place had collected in a little basin,
the only time we saw any pure water on the mountain.
The following day we reached our tents and enjoyed a good dinner, after
four days on biscuits and plain boiled rice. In the evening there came
on a thunderstorm, and the rain fell in a manner I have never before
known even in Borneo; it appeared to be coming down in tubsfull instead
of drops.
We attempted next day to go and examine the Batu Rikan, but the rush of
waters prevented our approaching it; in fact, the roar of the river, as
it dashed into the caves and whirled its spray into the air, made us
take precautions not to be swept into the boiling cauldron.
Our return was easy, as the river had risen enough to cover all the
rapids, so that their presence was only marked by the increased
velocity of the water; but when we joined the Limbang it became more
sluggish, and after Sungei Damit its speed had lessened from five
knots to one knot per hour.
These preliminary expeditions accomplished, having heard that I could
procure Murut guides, I determined to explore the main stream of the
Limbang, which evidently penetrated a long distance into the interior.
The ostensible object of the expedition was to reach those Muruts who
formerly lived upon the Adang, one of the tributaries of the Limbang,
but had now been driven away beyond the mountains by repeated attacks
of the Kayans. This was very vague information, but it was the best I
could procure.
The Bornean Government, on hearing of my intention to start, was filled
with uneasiness, and earnestly requested me to forego my intention. The
Sultan and Pañgeran Tumanggong were especially anxious, as they feared
some accident would happen; they talked of the head-hunting Kayans, the
wandering Pakatans with their poisoned arrows, the interior filled with
strange aborigines who had never seen a white man or even a Malay, and
the dangers of the river that imperilled our boats, and the wanderings
in the jungle that threatened starvation. The last two were especially
dwelt upon, as they reminded me of my former misadventure in returning
from Molu. They little thought that their descriptions of the interior
(from hearsay) only added to my desire to be away exploring. I knew
that all the threatened dangers really existed, but I determined to
take every precaution, and trust the rest to that fortune which had
ever befriended me in my former journeys.
It being uncertain how long I might be away, it was necessary to take
a large supply of food and ammunition. We prepared two boats, and both
were heavily laden; the first was a garei, a long canoe with raised
sides and regular timbers, forty-five feet by five, flat-bottomed, not
drawing above eighteen inches, with all her crew and stores on board.
She was commanded by a man I have often had occasion to mention, Musa,
a native of the Philippines, not above five feet one inch in height,
but sturdily and strongly built. The crew consisted of ten men, half of
whom were tried followers. An accompanying tender, containing six men,
was only suited for smooth water, being totally unfitted for the rapids
we should find in the interior, but it was our intention to change it
when we reached the Murut villages.
In this boat was Japer, the most remarkable man of the whole party. I
met him at the village of Blimbing during my first attempt to ascend
Molu, and he was full of stories. I learned that he belonged originally
to the wandering Pakatans, but had been converted to Islamism. He
appeared to have been quite a traveller, having visited Penang, Malaka,
Batavia, and Sarawak. He was familiar with the English conquest of
Java, and talked fluently of Lord Minto. I had been so accustomed to
look upon the great French war as a thing of the past, that I could
scarcely bring myself to believe that this man could have seen Lord
Minto at Malaka or Penang in 1811, but considering he was at least
sixty-three when I first saw him in 1857, there was really nothing
surprising in it.
He also abounded with accounts of Molu; having been at its base several
times, though he had never attempted to ascend it. But he told us
stories of the dwarfs who inhabited the caves, of big eggs which ten
men could not lift; but what particularly fixed the attention of his
native audience was the account of a sight witnessed by a Tutong man.
He said that one day he was seeking edible nests in holes round the
base of the mountain, when, being tired, he fell asleep in a cleft in
the side of a large cavern. He was awoke by lights flashing in his
eyes, and peering from his hiding-place, saw a long procession of
supernatural beings pass slowly by him, each carrying a torch, and
there was one to whom they all paid respect. He was too frightened to
remember the particulars, but he thinks they were dressed in flowing
robes.
Some of my men were in hopes these fearful stories would have deterred
me from my design to explore the mountain; but on my offering a reward
to any one who would take me to the cave where these wonderful sights
were seen, they saw ghosts did not daunt white men.
I took with me, also, my Chinese boy, Ahtan, to cook and wait upon me;
he had behaved so well during our Kina Balu expeditions that I liked
him to follow me.
As we might meet enemies we prepared a good stock of arms and
ammunition. I took two double-barrels, one rifle, and one smooth
bore--for general service in Borneo the latter is the best weapon of
all--a single-barrelled rifle, an Adams’s revolving carbine, and a
revolving pistol; for the men four long carbines, and a dozen flint
muskets; the last we found much too heavy for carrying through the
forests, and too cumbersome for boats.
Not knowing what kind of people we might meet, I embarked merchandise
of many kinds--hatchets, cloths (yellow, black, red, and white),
looking-glasses, agate and common beads; in fact, four times as much as
was necessary. My instruments, tents, and baggage, were both weighty
and occupied much room, so that when the crew entered the boat, with
five-and-twenty days’ provisions on board, its gunwales were not many
inches above the water.