CHAPTER XII

WORLD CONSCIOUSNESS

_The Third Side of the Triangle_

... For surely once, they feel, we were

Parts of a single continent.

Now round us spreads the watery plain--

Oh, might our marges meet again!

1

I had gone out to the _Katori-maru_ to inspect my quarters. I always

loved to get away from shore, even if only in a launch or sampan; it was

so much cleaner and fresher on the bay. That afternoon it was altogether

too attractive out there, and the city of Kobe lay so snugly below the

hills that I decided to remain on board till late in the evening, and

missed the last launch. I hailed a sampan. In this, with the wind

splashing the single sail and the spray scattering all about us, we

slipped romantically back to the American Hatoba. It was my last

entrance to Kobe.

All of the next day I kept changing trains and creeping over Japanese

hills and rice-fields in my devious and indirect route to Yokohama by

way of Japan's national shrine, Yamada Ise. A few days later I was on

board the _Katori-maru_, the newest type of Japanese shrine, the modern

commercial floating shrine, named after one of the most ancient of

shrines in Japan. The Katori shrine is said to have been founded some

twenty-five hundred years ago during the reign of the mythical first

emperor, Jimmu Tenno. It was dedicated to deities who possessed great

military skill and has always been patronized mainly by soldiers.

Transferring shrines from land to sea is a hazardous procedure. For me,

however, I was ready to give my offering most willingly as long as it

brought me to Seattle. There were too many people willing to patronize

floating shrines at that time for me to be too particular about deities.

[Illustration: FUJIYAMA

Japanese roofs may be monotonous--but never so is Fujiyama

Photo from Brown Bros.]

[Illustration: SEA, EARTH AND SKY

All are one in this glorious Pacific World

Photo from Brown Bros.]

For a moment, as we slipped away from the pier, I felt what a dying man

is said to feel when the flash-like review of life's experiences course

through his sinking consciousness. I saw Japan and all its valleys, its

dirt and its sublimity; and with all its past confusions I loved it.

Waiting for a final glimpse of Fuji left me idle enough to observe the

little things about me. There was, for instance, the two-by-two-by-five

sailor who was showing two Japanese girls through the "shrine" he was

serving. I followed them about the ship. He was explaining to them

various mysteries.

The Sailor: "Kore wa otoko no bath. [This is the men's bath.]" To the

minds of these Japanese maidens such a distinction was surprising.

The Sailor: "Kore wa second class. [This is second class.]" This was

like treading on sacred ground to these lowly born mites.

The Sailor: "Kore wa kitsu en shitsu. [This is the smoking-room.]" Why a

special room for so simple a service--and why men only?

He led them above to the hospital. He never made any comments, they

asked him no questions, but followed, single file, as is proper for

Japanese girls, agape with curiosity. They passed the life-saving

equipment. A tiny voice ventured a question. An amazed member of the

Japanese Government (it was a government subsidized vessel) said, with

semi-scorn:

"Kore wa? _Boat._ [This? _Boat._]" And they went below.

2

All of that forenoon, waiting for the _Katori-maru_ to slip away from

the pier, I watched for Fujiyama, that exquisite pyramid (to the summit

of which I had climbed twice), but it was veiled in mist. I wanted to

see what it looked like from the sea, just as I had seen what the sea

and the universe looked like from its peak. All afternoon, as Japan was

receding into the past, I tried to distinguish old Fuji, but there was

only a glittering edge, like a sword, beneath the low, bright sun. After

dinner I went on deck and there in all that simple splendor which has

made it the wonder of the world, stood Fujiyama, with a soft, sunset

glow beneath its peak. The symbolic sword had vanished. And I felt that

in all those years and miles and space which gather in my memory as that

single thing--the Pacific Ocean--nothing transcends in loveliness the

last view of Fuji from the sea.

Then for two days the world seemed to swoon in mist. The fog-horn kept

blowing drearily every two minutes; yet the steamer never slackened its

speed for a moment; in fact, we made more miles those two days than

during the clear days that followed. We had taken the extreme northern

route and were soon in a cold latitude. The fog became crisp, as though

threatening to crystallize, and when I stood on the forward deck it was

almost like being out in a blizzard. The siren continued to emit its

melancholy wail across a wilderness of waves lost in mist. One could not

see the length of the ship. At midnight I woke, startled by the sudden

cessation of the propellers. For three hours we were stationary, owing

to engine trouble. The steamer barely rocked, giving me the sensation of

the deep as nothing ever did before. It was at once weird and lovely,

and in the darkness I could imagine our vessel as lone and isolated, a

thing lost in an open wilderness of space. The siren continued moaning

like the wail of a child in the night, and once I thought I heard

another siren off in the distance. We started off again and from then on

didn't once slacken our speed in the least, so large, so spacious, so

unfrequented is the Pacific in these days.

The fog hung close for so many days that a rumor went round that the

captain was unable to get his bearings. With neither sun nor stars to

rely on men's best instruments are altogether inadequate. At half-past

nine o'clock one evening, however, the steel blinds were closed over the

port-holes. The ship began to pitch and roll. The waves rushed at us and

broke against the iron cheek of the vessel. The fittings on deck rolled

back and forth, and those passengers unused to the sea clung to their

berths.

Only when we were within three days of the American coast did the sun

come out. For over a week we had been in a dull-gray world which was

becoming terribly depressing. We were considerably farther north than I

had expected to be.

Five days after our departure, I was again at the 180th meridian, and

enjoyed what only a very eager, active person could enjoy,--a

forty-eight-hour day. This time, going eastward, we gained a day. I also

had the pleasure of being within fifty degrees of the north pole just as

three years before I had been within fifty degrees of the south pole. In

other words, I had touched two points along the 180th meridian which

were six thousand miles away from each other, or twice the distance from

New York to San Francisco.

Calculations are somewhat misleading at times. For instance, when we

were near the Aleutian Islands, I chanced to compare the records of that

day's run as posted in the first saloon with those posted in the second

saloon. The first read 4,240 miles from Yokohama; the second, 4,235

miles. Japanese handling of figures made the prow of the ship five miles

nearer its destination than the stern. Japanese historians also have a

tendency to make such innocent mistakes in their imperialistic

calculations. Japan's feet do not seem to be able to keep pace with her

desires.

As though to investigate this phenomenon, a little bird,--slightly

larger than a sparrow, with the same kind of feathered back, but with a

white breast, flitted down upon the deck before me,--and began hopping

about. It approached to within two feet of me, then sneaked into a warm

place out of sight. A stowaway from birdland, stealing a ride and

planning, most likely, to enter America without a passport. Perhaps it

thought that being near the stern of the boat, according to the

calculations above quoted, it could still remain beyond the three-mile

limit.

Then the homeward-bound spirit took possession of me,--that selfsame

realization of my direction which had come over me upon sight of the

Australian coast three years previously, a psychological twisting which

baffled me for a time. Another day and we were within the last square

marked off by the latitudinal and longitudinal lines,--the nearest I had

been to America in nearly five years. To remind me of my wanderings, the

flags of the nations hung in the dining-saloon: under nearly every one

of them I had at some time found hospitality.

3

The reader who has followed me thus far has been with me about three

months on the sea. What to the Greeks and the Romans was the

Mediterranean, the Pacific will be to us seventy times over. Already

there is a wealth of literature and of science which has come to us

through the inspiration of that great waterway. For Darwin and Stevenson

and O'Brien the Pacific has been mother of their finest passions. In the

near future, our argosies will cross and recross those tens of thousands

of miles as numerously as those of the Phoenicians on the

Mediterranean in antiquity. They will bring us back the teas and spices

and silks of the Orient. But there are those of us who have watched the

"White Shadows" of the Pacific who would wish that something were

brought away besides the ephemeral materials. For there is in the sea a

kinship with the infinite and the absolute, and who studies its moods

comes nearer understanding life.

I wandered along one night with a New Zealand man, without knowing where

he was leading me. Suddenly we came, by way of a narrow pathway, against

a wall of darkness. We were at the seashore. It was as though we had

come to the world's end and the white glistening breakers arrived as

messengers from eternity, warning us against venturing farther. I

strained my eyes to see into that pitch-black gulch, but I might just as

well have shut my eyes and let the persistent breakers tell the story of

the sea in their own way. Afterward I often made my way out to that

beach and sat for hours, or trod the sands till night left of the sea

nothing but mournful whisperings.

One day in August, when the first snow fell over our little winter world

in the far South, I had climbed the hills up to the belt of wildwood

that girds the city of Dunedin. The very joy of life was in the air.

Keenly I sensed the larger season,--that of human kinship merged in the

centuries. I looked across the hills to mountains I had known; but it

was then not the Alps I saw, not the Rockies, the Aeta Roa under the

Southern Cross, nor yet the Himalayas nor the snow-packed barriers of

the Uriankhai, the unrenowned Turgan group. In truth, I was not seeing

impassable peaks at all, but imprisoned ranges which were themselves

trying to outreach their altitudinal limitations. It was a world

consciousness which was mine, and I towered far above the highest peaks,

above the world itself. I saw no single group, no political sections nor

geographical divisions, the conquest of ridges, the commingling of

noises, the concord of peoples. And when men come to this world

consciousness they will recognize and accept all, include the barrier

and the plain. They will see these great, sheer rugged peaks knifing the

floating clouds, yielding to the creeping glaciers, yet one and all,

when released sweeping down the valleys as impassioned rivers, filling

the lowest depths of earth, depths deeper than the sea, lower than the

deserts. In such moments of world consciousness men will have to step

downward from the bottom of the sea and upward from the summit of

McKinley. Then barriers will become beacons. Mankind lives at sea-level.

We care little about our neighbors over the ranges. That mental attitude

makes barriers real and valleys dark. But when we turn them into beacons

we shall climb the barriers in order to look into the valleys of our

neighbors and they will become the ladders of heaven and the light unto

nations. That is the lesson of the sea.

At present we live at a sea-level, but beneath and behind the barriers,

are the peaks of earth. Hence walls of houses are as great barriers as

mountains. Hence even thoughts are barriers and ideals become terrible,

cold, insurmountable prominences.

But in world consciousness, which is the lesson of the sea, we do not

reject anything,--the religions, the political parties, the

anti-religions, and the negations,--but we bring them to the level of

human understanding by absorption, by taking them in. That is the story

of the sea.

The ocean breaks incessantly before us, but only the one majestic wave

thrills as it rises and overleaps the rocky barrier. A forest is densely

grown, yet only the stately, beautiful tree stirs the forest-lover. The

street swarms with human beings all of whom are material for the

friend-maker, yet only one of the mass, in passing, steeps the day's

experience in the essence of love. But loving that one wave, or tree, or

being does not shut us against the source of its becoming; rather does

it teach us the possibilities latent in the mass. That is the moral of

the sea.

But what is the sea? How can we know the sea? Is it water, space,

depth? Can we measure it in miles, in the days required to traverse it,

in steamship lines, by the turning of the screws, or by the system of

the fourth dimension? To me who have been round the greatest sea on

earth comes the realization that I have seen only a narrow line of it,

and that I can only believe that the rest is what it has been said to

be. Yet my faith is founded on my knowledge of the faithfulness of the

sea.

The sea, we sometimes say, has its moods, but rather should they be

called enthusiasms. It is really not the sea at all to which we refer,

but to something which in the vague world of infinitude is in itself a

sea whipping the surface of an unfathomable wonder. The sea's moods are

not in its breakers, any more than is the surface phenomenon which

floors the region between our atmosphere and ether, the story of our

earth. We cannot reach down beneath the breakers and learn the secret of

the heart of the sea. In ourselves, as in the sea, we obtain a record of

that tremendous silence which is the harbinger of all sound, as the

heavens are of all color.

One day in New Zealand I witnessed a conflict between the earth and the

sea. A tremendous wind swept north-westward, and pressed heavily down

upon the shore. It sent the sand scurrying back into the sea. Even the

breakers, like the sand, fell back in furious spray like the waves of

sea-horses,--back into the ocean. The entire length of the beach for

three miles was alive with retreating spray, mingled with the bewildered

sand-legions scurrying at my ankles.

One night, on the shores of Otago Harbor, the moon, blasted and blunted

by heavy clouds, had started on its journey. In a little cave huddled a

cloud of black night. We had spread the faithful embers of our camp fire

so they could not touch one another, and wanting touch they died in the

darkness. We had put the curse of loneliness upon each of them. The

little cave had become only a darker spot on a dark landscape,--a

landscape so rough, so rare and rugged, reaching the sea and the

western sky of night. So rough, so unformed, so uncompleted. The maker

of lands was beating against it impatiently, rushing it, forming it.

What uncanny projections, what sandy cliffs! For ages the wind and sea

have been whipping them into shape. Yet man could remove them with a

blast or two. For thousands of miles, all round the rim of the great

Pacific, the same process is going on, day and night. While upon land,

man has continued working out his mission in the same persistent,

unconscious manner.

O Maker of lands' ends, O Sea, when will man be formed? When will the

conflicts among men cease? They have tried to curb one another and to

subject one another to slavish uses, even and kempt. But still, after

ages of whipping and lashing, they are still unfinished as though never

to be formed. Are the various little groups which lie so far apart,

scattered by some ancient camper, to die for want of the touch of

comrade, like those embers in the darkness of that empty cavelet?

Here round the Pacific we dwell, each in his own little hollow. May not

this vast, generous ocean become the great experiment station for human

commonalty, for distinction without extinction? The dreams that centered

in the other great seas--the Mediterranean, the Atlantic--were only

partially fulfilled. But here at the point where East is West, it ought

to be possible, because of the very obvious differences, to maintain

relations without irritating encroachment. There was a time when

passionate desire justified a man taking a woman from another with the

aid of a club. To-day the decent man knows that however much he may

love, only mutual consent makes relationship possible. And from the

frenzy of untutored souls let those who feel repugnance withdraw till

the force of a higher morality makes the rest of the world follow in its

wake.

... now I only hear

Its melancholy, long, withdrawing roar,

Retreating to the breath

Of the night-wind down the vast edges drear

And naked shingles of the world.

Ah, love, let us be true

To one another! for the world, which seems

To lie before us like a land of dreams,

So various, so beautiful, so new,

Hath really neither joy, nor love nor light,

Nor certitude, nor peace, nor help for pain:

And we are here as on a darkling plain

Swept with confused alarms of struggle and flight,

Where ignorant armies clash by night.

BOOK TWO

DISCUSSION OF NATIVE PROBLEMS--PERSONAL AND SOCIAL

The Pacific Triangle · 第 12 / 24 章