CHAPTER XLI

THE ERUPTIVE VENTS OF THE BASALT-PLATEAUX

Vents filled with Basalt or other Lava-form Rock--Vents filled

with Agglomerate

It is one of the most interesting points in the Tertiary volcanic

history that, in spite of the enormous geological revolutions that

have passed since they became extinct, the sites of many scattered

vents can still be recognized. A far greater number must lie buried

under the basalts, and of others the positions are concealed by

the sea, which now covers so large an area of the old lava-fields.

Nevertheless, partly within the area of the plateaux, but still more

on the surrounding tracts from which the basalts have been removed

by denudation, the traces of unmistakable vents of discharge may be

recognized amid the general wreck.

In Britain and the Faroe Isles, it is chiefly along the coast-line

that the process of denudation has revealed the volcanic vents of

Tertiary time. The interior of the country is often loaded with peat,

covered with herbage, or strewn with glacial detritus: and even where

indications of the vents are to be detected, it is not always possible

to ascertain their true limits and connections. But where the structure

of the plateaux has been laid bare along ranges of rocky precipice, the

vents have sometimes been so admirably dissected by the sea that every

feature of their arrangements can be satisfactorily determined.

As the actual physical connexion of these volcanic orifices with the

plateaux has been in most cases removed by denudation, we can usually

only by inference place them in what was probably their true relation

to the plateau-eruptions. Those which project from the surface of the

plateaux must, of course, be younger than the basalts through which

they rise; how much younger we cannot tell. They may possibly be later

than any of the plateau-sheets; they may even belong to a subsequent

and waning condition of volcanic action. On the other hand, the vents

which can now be traced outside of the present limits of the edges

of the plateaux may, like those just mentioned, be younger than the

basalt-sheets, or, on the contrary, they may be records of a period

of eruptivity anterior to the emission of any of the rocks of the

plateaux, and may have been deeply buried under a mass of basalt-beds

subsequently removed. Positive demonstration is, from the nature of

the case, impossible in these instances. But examples will be cited

from the Western Isles and from Faroe, where the vents can be proved

to belong to the time of the plateau-eruptions, for they are seen to

have broken through some of the basalt-sheets and to have been buried

under others. With this clear evidence of relationship in some cases,

there need be little hesitation in believing that in other instances

where no such positive connexion can be found, but where the vents are

obviously such as the general structure of the plateaux would have led

us to expect, they may be confidently regarded as part of the phenomena

of the plateau-eruptions.

Sometimes the vents can be linked with lines of fissures or dykes. This

is especially the case where they are small in size. More usually,

however, no such relation can be demonstrated. It will be remembered

that among the modern Icelandic eruptions, some eruptive vents, like

the later cinder-cones of Laki, are ranged in a linear direction

along the great fissure, while others, of an older series in the same

district, almost engulphed amidst the more recent lavas, are clustered

irregularly in groups. A similar diversity of arrangement has been

observed among the volcanic cones of the Velay in Central France.

Considering as a whole the volcanic necks or eruptive vents which rise

from the older rocks around the Tertiary basalt-plateaux, and sometimes

even from the surface of these plateaux themselves, we may conveniently

follow the same classification as was adopted in dealing with those

of Palæozoic age, and, according to the nature of the material that

now fills them, arrange them in two series: (1) Those occupied by some

form of crystalline eruptive rock, and (2) those filled with volcanic

agglomerate.

i. VENTS FILLED WITH DOLERITE, BASALT, ETC.

These, as the composition of the plateaux would lead us to anticipate,

are numerous. They perhaps attain their most conspicuous development

in Antrim, either on the tableland or among the underlying rocks

round its edges. The finest example in that district is undoubtedly

furnished by the lofty eminence called Slemish, which rises above the

surrounding basalt-terrace, to a height of 1437 feet above the sea

(Fig. 294). It is elliptical in ground-plan, measuring some 4000 feet

in length by 1000 in breadth. Seen from the north, it appears as a

nearly perfect cone. The material of which it consists is a coarsely

crystalline olivine-dolerite, presenting under the microscope a nearly

holocrystalline aggregate, in which the lath-shaped felspars penetrate

the augite, with abundant fresh olivine, and wedge-shaped patches

of interstitial matter. The rock is massive and amorphous, except

that it is divided by parallel joints into large quadrangular blocks

like a granitic rock, and wholly different from the character of the

surrounding basalts. The latter, which possess the ordinary characters

of the rocks of the plateaux, can be followed to within 80 yards of

this neck, which rises steeply from them, but their actual junction

with it is concealed under the depth of talus.

[Illustration: Fig. 294.--Slemish, a Volcanic Neck or Vent on the

Antrim Plateau, seen from the north.]

[Illustration: Fig. 295.--Section of Volcanic Vent at Carnmony Hill (E.

Hull).

T, Lower basalt; C, Cretaceous strata; L, Lower Lias; M, Triassic

marls; V, Vent.]

At the nearest point to which the two rocks are traceable, the basalts

appear somewhat indurated, break with a peculiar splintery fracture,

and weather with a white crust. These characters are still better shown

on abundant fragments which may be picked up among the debris further

up the slope. There can be no doubt, I think, that a ring of flinty

basalt, differing considerably in texture from the usual aspect of that

rock in the district, surrounds the neck. The meaning of this ring

will be more clearly seen from the description of another example in

Mull. About four miles to the north-east of Slemish, a smaller and less

conspicuous neck rises out of the plateau-basalts. The rock of which

it consists is less coarsely crystalline than that of Slemish, but its

relations to the surrounding volcanic rocks are obviously the same. On

the west side of Belfast Lough a boss of similar rock, about 1200 feet

in diameter, rises at the very edge of the basalt escarpment into the

eminence known as Carnmony Hill (Fig. 295). On its northern side it

presents along its wall a mass of interposed volcanic agglomerate.[295]

On visiting with Mr. M'Henry the quarry opened on the eastern face of

this vent, I was much struck with the remarkable cellular structure

of some parts of the dolerite. Many of the vesicles are lined with a

thin pellicle of black glass, and the same substance occurs in minute

patches in the body of the rock. A thin slice exhibiting this structure

was found by Mr. Watts to possess the following characters:--"The

rock is an ophitic dolerite consisting of plagioclase, augite, and

iron ores, without olivine, enclosing one or two patches of finer

basalt. The vesicles in the latter, and certain angular spaces between

the crystals of the former, have been wholly or partially filled with

brown glass, the outer part of which has been converted into radiating

crystals of a brown mineral." The occurrence of patches of glass which

seem to have been squeezed into vesicles or cracks in the body of a

dolerite or andesite has been noticed in some of the Tertiary dykes.

But in the present case the glass occurs as a mere coating on the walls

of the larger spheroidal vesicles, the interior of which generally

remains empty.

[Footnote 295: This neck was recognised by Du Noyer in 1868 as "one of

the great pipes or feeders of the basaltic flows." See Prof. Hull,

Explanation of Sheets 21, 28 and 29, _Geol. Survey of Ireland_ (1876),

p. 30.]

Of the other doleritic necks scattered over the surface of the Antrim

plateau, I will refer to only one which occurs on the hillslopes

between Glenarm and Larne. It forms a prominence known as the Scawt

Hill, and consists of a boss of basalt, which, in rising through a vent

in the plateau-sheets, has carried up with it and converted into marble

a large mass of chalk which is now exposed along its eastern wall (Fig.

296).

[Illustration: Fig. 296.--Section of the east side of Scawt Hill, near

Glenarm.

_a_, bedded basalt; _b_, mass of chalk; _c_, basalt neck.]

[Illustration: Fig. 297.--Section of Neck of Basalt, Bendoo, Ballintoy.

_a_ _a_, Chalk; _b_, neck.]

As examples of similar necks which have been exposed by denudation

outside the present limits of the same plateau, I may allude to those

which rise through the Cretaceous and other Secondary strata on the

northern coast near Ballintoy. One of the most striking of these may

be seen at Bendoo, where a plug of basalt, measuring about 1400 feet

in one diameter and 800 feet in another, rises through the Chalk, and

alters it around the line of contact (Fig. 297). Another remarkably

picturesque example is to be seen near Cushendall, where a prominent

doleritic cone rises out of the platform of Old Red Sandstone, some

distance to the north of the present edge of the volcanic escarpment

(Fig. 298).

[Illustration: Fig. 298.--Volcanic Neck of Dolerite near Cushendall.]

The greater coarseness of grain of the material filling these pipes,

compared with that of the sheets in the terraces, is only what the very

different conditions of cooling and consolidation would lead us to

expect. There is no essential difference of composition between the two

rocks. Where the erupted material has been poured out at the surface,

it has assumed a finely crystalline texture, while, where it has slowly

solidified within a volcanic pipe at some depth beneath the surface,

and where consequently its component crystals have had more time for

development, the resulting structure is much more largely crystalline,

with a more or less complete development of the ophitic structure.

[Illustration: Fig. 299.--Section of Volcanic Neck at 'S Airde Beinne,

near Tobermory, Mull.

_a_ _a_, bedded basalts; _b_ _b_, bedded basalts altered along the side

of vent; _c_ _c_, dolerite.]

In the island of Mull, another instance of the same kind of vent has

been observed and described by Professor Judd.[296] It rises in the

conspicuous hill, 'S Airde Beinne (Sarta Beinn), about two miles

south-west from Tobermory, and consists of a coarsely crystalline

dolerite, which becomes finer in grain towards the outer margin

(Fig. 299). No bedding, or structure of any kind beyond jointing, is

perceptible in it. Examined in thin sections under the microscope,

this rock is found to be another typical ophitic dolerite, consisting

of lath-shaped felspars embedded in augite, with here and there

wedge-shaped portions of interstitial matter and grains of olivine. Dr.

Hatch found the felspars to contain spherical inclusions of devitrified

glass, filled with black granules and trichites, and he observed that,

under a high power, the interstitial matter is seen to consist mainly

of a greenish-brown isotropic substance, in which are inclosed small

crystals of augite, skeleton-forms and microlites of felspar, sometimes

in stellate aggregates, as well as club-shaped, cruciform, arrow-headed

and often crested microlites of magnetite.

[Footnote 296: _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, xxx. (1874), p. 264.]

[Illustration: Fig. 300.--Interior of the Volcanic Neck of 'S Airde

Beinne, near Tobermory, Mull.]

Towering prominently above the flat basalt sheets, this neck has an

oval form, measuring about half a mile in length by a quarter of a

mile in breadth. Its central portion, however, instead of rising into

a rugged hill-top, as is usually the case, sinks into a deep hollow,

which is filled with water, and reminds one of a true crater-lake

(Figs. 299, 300). The middle of the neck is thus concealed from view,

and we can only examine the hard prominent ring of dolerite that

surrounds the tarn. The material occupying the hollow may be softer

than that of the ring, and may have been scooped out by denudation.

What we now see may not be the original surface, but may have been

exposed after the removal of possibly hundreds of feet of overlying

material. On the other hand, it is conceivable that the hollow is

really a crater-lake which was filled up with detritus and may have

been overspread with basalt, since removed. It may be suggestively

compared with the crater-hollows revealed by denudation on the cliffs

of Stromö and Portree Harbour, which will be described in a later part

of this chapter. Possibly some more easily removable agglomerate,

representing an eruption later than that of the dolerite, may occupy

the centre of the volcanic pipe.

One of the most interesting features of this vent is to be found in

its relation to the surrounding basalts. The marginal parts of the

rock along the line of contact are much finer in grain than the rest,

and have obviously cooled more rapidly. The contrast between them and

the ordinary dolerite nearer the centre, however, cannot be properly

understood, except in thin sections under the microscope. Dr. Hatch, to

whom I submitted my specimens, observed that, in place of the structure

above described, the marginal parts show an absence of the ophitic

grouping except in small isolated patches. Instead of occurring in

large grains or plates enveloping the felspars, the augite is found in

numerous small roundish grains, together with grains of magnetite, in

equal abundance and of similar size. The felspars are speckled over

with opaque particles; olivine has not been detected.

For miles around the vent, the plateau-rocks are of the usual

type--black, compact, sometimes amygdaloidal, alternating with more

coarsely crystalline decomposing bands, the separation between

different sheets being often marked by the ordinary red ferruginous

partings. But around the margin of the neck, they have undergone a

remarkable metamorphism. The portions of them which adhere to the outer

wall of the neck have lost their distinct bedding, and have been, as

it were, welded together into an indurated compact, black to dull-grey

rock, so shattery and jointed that fresh hand-specimens, three or four

inches in length, are not easily obtainable. Especially marked is one

set of joints which, running approximately parallel, cause the rock to

split into plates or slabs. These joints are sometimes curved. Yet, in

spite of the alteration from its normal character, the basalt retains

in places some of its more usual external features, such, for instance,

as its amygdaloidal structure, the amygdales consisting of calcite,

finely acicular mesotype, and other minerals.

Examined under the microscope, this altered basalt presents "a confused

aggregate of colourless microlites (felspar?) and innumerable minute

granules of magnetite, these two constituents being very unequally

distributed. Sometimes the colourless portions preponderate, in other

places the opaque granules are heaped together in black patches, which

may possibly mark the position of fused augites."[297]

[Footnote 297: Notes by Dr. Hatch.]

In the zone of contact-metamorphism around some of the volcanic pipes

in the plateaux, we see changes analogous to, but less developed than,

those which have been superinduced on so large a scale round the great

eruptive bosses of gabbro, granophyre, etc., that have broken up the

terraced basalts along the west coast of Scotland. I shall accordingly

return to this subject in connection with phenomena presented by these

younger rocks (p. 386).

ii. VENTS FILLED WITH AGGLOMERATE

While the necks of dolerite or basalt cannot always be satisfactorily

discriminated from bosses which may never have established a connection

with the surface, there is no room for any doubt in this respect in

the case of those filled with fragmentary materials. As has been

already pointed out, the occurrence of true volcanic agglomerate

may be accepted as evidence of the existence of an eruptive vent

communicating with the surface of the earth. The agglomerate in the

vents associated with the basalt-plateaux, like that of the Palæozoic

vents, is generally exceedingly coarse, and without any trace of

structure. Blocks of all sizes up to masses some yards in length, and

of the most diversified materials, both volcanic and non-volcanic, are

dispersed confusedly through a granular paste of similar miscellaneous

composition.

[Illustration: Fig. 301.--Diagram to show the probable relation of the

Neck at Carrick-a-raide, Antrim, to an adjacent group of tuffs.

_a_ _a_, Chalk; _b_ _b_, lower group of bedded basalts; _c_, vent

of Carrick-a-raide, filled with coarse volcanic agglomerate; _d_

_d_, bedded tuffs; _e_ _e_, large veins of basalt traversing the

agglomerate; _f_ _f_, zone of tuffs and pisolitic iron ore; _g_ _g_,

upper group of bedded basalts.]

An instructive example of the general characteristics of

agglomerate-vents, and of the relation of these vents to the

surrounding tuffs and basalts, is to be found at the island of

Carrick-a-raide, on the north coast of Antrim, and on the opposite

mainland. The visible mass of this neck is about 1000 feet in diameter,

but the boundaries, except on the land side, are concealed by the sea.

The material filling up the vent is a coarse agglomerate, in which

blocks and bombs of basalt, with pieces of chalk and flint, are stuck

at all angles in a dull dirty-green granular tuff. Some large and small

intrusions of basalt rise through it. Owing partly to these intrusions,

and partly to the grass-covered slope that separates it from the line

of cliff, the actual contact of this neck with the volcanic beds of the

escarpment cannot be seen. I have no doubt, however, that the tuff,

which has already been referred to as so conspicuous a member of the

series here, was discharged from this vent.[298] The materials are as

usual coarser in the pipe than beyond it, but the finer portion or

matrix of the agglomerate is similar to many bands of the tuff. The

structure of the locality may be diagrammatically represented as in

Fig. 301. The bedded tuff is thickest in the neighbourhood of the vent,

and gradually dies away on either side of it.

[Footnote 298: See Explanation of Sheets 7 and 8, _Geol. Survey of

Ireland_ (1888), p. 31.]

But another important inference may be drawn from this locality. I have

already pointed out that the lower basalts here reach their minimum

thickness. Their basement beds thin away towards the vent as markedly

as the tuff thickens. Obviously they cannot have proceeded from that

point of eruption. Yet, that they had begun to be poured out before

the discharge of the tuff is shown by their underlying as well as

overlying that rock, though westward, owing to the thinning away of

the undermost basalts, the tuff comes to lie directly on the Chalk.

Hence, we may legitimately infer that in this neighbourhood one or more

other vents supplied the sheets of the lower basalts.

In the island of Mull a number of detached bosses or patches of

agglomerate much obscured by invasions of granophyre probably mark

the sites of volcanic vents. They will be more particularly noticed

in Chapter xlvii. One of their most interesting features is the large

number of fragments of felsitic or rhyolitic rocks which they contain.

In the promontory of Ardnamurchan, where the basalt-plateau has been

invaded and displaced by later intrusions of crystalline rocks, and has

likewise been reduced to such a fragmentary condition by denudation,

some interesting examples of agglomerate necks have been laid bare.

One of the largest of these occurs on the north shore at Faskadale.

Cut open by the sea for more than a quarter of a mile, this neck

is seen to be filled with a coarse agglomerate, composed mainly of

basalt-blocks and debris, but crowded also with angular and subangular

pieces of different close-grained andesitic, felsitic and porphyritic

rocks belonging to the acid series to be afterwards described.[299] Some

of these stones exhibit a very perfect flow-structure, and closely

resemble certain fine-grained, flinty, intrusive rocks in Mull, to

which allusion will subsequently be made. The matrix of the agglomerate

is of the usual dull dirty-green colour, but is so intensely indurated

that on a fresh fracture it can hardly be distinguished from some of

the crystalline rocks of the locality. The neck is pierced in all

directions with dykes and veins of basalt, dolerite, andesite, gabbro,

and felsitic rocks. Similar intrusions continue and increase in numbers

farther west until the cliffs become a labyrinth of dykes and veins

running through a mass of rocks which appears to consist mainly of dull

dolerites and fine gabbros. Though the relations of this vent to the

plateau-basalts are not quite plain, the agglomerate seemed to me to

rise out of these rocks. At least the basalts extend from Achateny to

Faskadale, but, as they are followed westwards, they are more and more

invaded by eruptive sheets, and assume the indurated character to which

I have already referred.

[Footnote 299: One of these felsites when viewed under a high magnifying

power is seen to present an abundant development of exceedingly minute

micropegmatite arranged in patches and streaks parallel with the

lines of flow-structure in the general cryptocrystalline groundmass.

The close relationship between the felsites, quartz-porphyries, and

granophyres will be afterwards pointed out in the description of the

acid rocks. It is remarkable that, though these rocks occur abundantly

in fragments in the volcanic necks and agglomerates of the plateaux,

not a single instance has been observed of their intercalation as

contemporaneous sheets among the basic lavas. The analogous case of the

interstratification of felsitic tuffs among basic lavas in the volcanic

series of the Old Red Sandstone of Central Scotland has been described

(vol. i. p. 279). It is interesting to note that liparitic pumice and

dykes have been erupted by some of the basaltic craters of Iceland, for

example at Askja, Öræfajökull and Snaefellsjökull. (Mr. Thoroddsen,

_Dansk. Geograf. Tidsskrift_, vol. xiii. 7th and 8th parts.)]

On the south side of the peninsula of Ardnamurchan, another

agglomerate, noticed by Professor Judd,[300] rises into the bold headland

of Maclean's Nose, at the mouth of Loch Sunart, and affords better

evidence of its relation to the bedded basalts. It measures about

1000 yards in length by 300 in breadth, and its summit rises more

that 900 feet above the sea, which washes the base of its southern

front. It is filled with an agglomerate even coarser than that on

the northern coast. The blocks are of all sizes, up to eight or ten

feet in diameter. By far the largest proportion of them consists of

varieties of basalt and andesite, slaggy and vesicular structures

being especially conspicuous. There are also large blocks of different

andesitic porphyries and felsitic rocks like those just referred to,

a porphyry with felspar crystals two inches long being particularly

abundant. All the stones are more or less rounded, and are wrapped

up in a dull-green compact matrix of basalt-debris. There is no

stratification or structure of any kind in the mass. Numerous dykes

or veins of basalt, of andesite, and of a porphyry, resembling that

of Craignure, in Mull, traverse the agglomerate. Some of the narrow

basalt-dykes cut through the others.

[Footnote 300: _Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc._ xxx. (1874), p. 261. Professor

Judd has subsequently (_op. cit._ xlvi. 1890, pp. 374 _et seq._) given

a map, section and description of what he believes to be the structure

of this ground, with numerous details as to the petrography of the

rocks. The geological structure of this area is more fully referred to

on pp. 318 _et seq._]

[Illustration: Fig. 302.--Section of agglomerate Neck at Maclean's

Nose, Ardnamurchan.

_a_ _a_, quartzites and schists; _b_, bedded basalts lying partly

on the schists and partly on patches of Jurassic sandstones that

occupy hollows of the older crystalline rocks; _c_, agglomerate;

_d_ _d_, dykes and veins traversing the agglomerate; _e_, dolerite

sheets of Ben Hiant.

]

The position of the vent, with reference to the surrounding rocks, will

be understood from the accompanying section (Fig. 302). On the eastern

side, the agglomerate can be seen to abut against the truncated ends

of the flat beds of the plateau-basalts, which are of the usual bedded

compact and amygdaloidal character. There can be no doubt, therefore,

that the vent has been opened through these basalts. But it will be

observed that the latter belong to the lower part of the volcanic

series. These lowest sheets are exposed on the slope, resting upon

yellowish and spotted grey sandstone, with seams of jet and a reddish

breccia, which, lying in hollows of the quartzites, quartz-schists, and

mica-schists, form no doubt the local base of the Jurassic rocks of

the district. Hence, the vent, though younger than the older sheets of

the plateau, may quite well be contemporaneous with some of the later

sheets.[301]

[Footnote 301: It may here be remarked that there is evidence of great

differences in the level of the base of the Jurassic series and

the bottom of the volcanic plateau in this district. On the south

and west sides of Ben Hiant the Jurassic conglomerates may be seen

lying on the edges of the crystalline schists only a little above

high-water mark, while on the north side, the schists, with their

overlying unconformable cake of limestones, rise several hundred feet

above sea-level. The surface on which the basalts were poured out was

probably very uneven, but there may also have been some considerable

displacements of these basalts either before or during the injection of

the dolerite sills of Ben Hiant.]

An interesting feature at this locality is the peculiar grouping of

some of the large dykes in the area around the agglomerate. They run

in the direction of the vent, and one or other of them may represent

the fissure or fissures on which the volcanic orifice was blown open

to the surface. Another notable element in the geological structure

of the ground is the vast amount of intrusive material, both in dykes

and sheets, which has been erupted. The intrusive sheets of Ben

Hiant form the most prominent eminence in this part of Ardnamurchan.

Reserving them for description in the following Chapter (p. 318), I

will only remark here that they partly overlie the agglomerate, and

are therefore, to some extent at least, younger than the vent. They

belong to that late stage in the history of the basalt-plateaux when

the molten material, no longer getting ready egress to the surface,

forced its way among the rocks about the base of the bedded basalts,

and more especially on the sites of older vents, which were doubtless

weak places, where it could more easily find relief.

The large neck now described is only one of a group scattered around

it in the ground to the north. Two of these may be seen rising through

a detached area of Jurassic limestones and shales at the northern base

of Ben Hiant. A third, almost obliterated by the intrusive sheets, may

be traced at the western end of that mountain above Coiremhuilinn.

Two others rising through the schists on either side of Beinn na

h-Urchrach, have been much invaded by the sills of that eminence

(Fig. 326). It is doubtless owing to the extensive denudation of the

basalt-plateau, and the consequent uncovering of the rocks underneath

it, that this series of vents has been laid bare.[302]

[Footnote 302: Professor Judd has united these scattered vents into a

continuous platform of volcanic agglomerates, which he represents as

underlying the supposed lavas of Ben Hiant. Since the publication

of his map and description, I have re-examined the ground without

being able to discover any trace of this platform. All the visible

agglomerates are separate necks, their actual walls being sometimes

exposed, as in the neck immediately north of the base of Ben Hiant,

where the limestone in contact is marmorised, though twelve yards of it

is an ordinary dull blue rock.]

By far the largest mass of agglomerate in any of the Tertiary volcanic

areas of Britain is that which occurs on the north side of the main

valley of Strath, in Skye.[303] Unfortunately, it has been so seriously

invaded by the eruptive rocks of the Red Hills, that its original

dimensions and its relations to the surrounding rocks, especially

to the bedded basalts, are much obscured (see Fig. 348). It can be

followed continuously from the lower end of Loch Kilchrist along the

southern slopes of Beinn Dearg Bheag round to the western roots of

Beinn Dearg Mhor--a distance of more than two miles in a straight

line, and from Kilbride to the flank of Beinn na Caillich above

Coire-chat-achan--a direct distance of two miles and a quarter. A

similar rock, possibly a portion of the same mass, appears in Creagan

Dubha, on the north side of the Red Hills. If the whole of this

agglomerate forms part of one originally continuous mass, it must have

been upwards of two miles in diameter. There may, however, have been

two or three closely adjacent vents. The Beinn na Caillich patch, for

example, appears to belong to a different area, and that of Creagan

Dubha is also probably distinct. But there seems no reason to doubt

that the mass which forms Cnoc nam Fitheach, and all the long declivity

on the southern flank of Beinn Dearg Bheag, occupies part of the site

of a single volcano. Owing to the absence of sufficient sections, it

is hardly possible to determine how much of this fragmentary material

should be assigned to the actual chimney. The diameter of the whole

mass is almost two miles. But possibly a considerable proportion of

this accumulation belongs to the external cone which gathered round

the vent, so that the eruptive pipe might thus be of much smaller

dimensions than the superficial area of the agglomerate. The subsequent

invasion of so much granophyre, not only that of the Red Hills, but

that of numerous smaller intrusions, has indurated the agglomerate and

made the investigation of its structure somewhat unsatisfactory.

[Footnote 303: This extensive mass was not separated from the "syenite"

of the Red Hills by Macculloch. Von Oeynhausen and Von Dechen noticed

it as a conglomerate with quartz pebbles, but did not realise its

volcanic nature (_Karsten's Archiv_, i. p. 90). In my map of Strath

(_Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._ xiv. plate i.) I distinguished it from the

rock of the Red Hills, but no name for it appears in the legend of

the map, nor is it referred to in the text. Its character as a true

volcanic agglomerate was recognised by Professor Judd, _op. cit._ p.

255. See _postea_, pp. 384 _et seq._]

It might be supposed that the mere existence of intrusive bosses and

veins rather furnishes an argument in favour of considering the visible

agglomerate to belong to a deeper-seated part of the erupted material

than the external cone. But, as will be afterwards shown, there is

some reason to regard the present conical or dome-shaped outlines of

the granophyre hills as not far from their original forms, and to

believe that, like the trachytic Puys of Auvergne, they were much more

superficial than plutonic eruptions. A study of the cinder cones of

Central France shows that even these superficial accumulations have

been invaded not only by bosses but by dykes.[304]

[Footnote 304: The existence of a small dyke of andesite on the northern

rim of the well-known crater of the Puy Parion has already been

noticed.]

The agglomerate of the great Strath vent is a coarse tumultuous

assemblage of blocks and bombs, imbedded in the usual dull, dirty-green

matrix. Among the stones, grit and sandstone, together with

scoriaceous, vesicular and amygdaloidal basalts are specially abundant;

also pieces of various quartz-porphyries and granophyres, among which

a black felsite like that of Mull may often be recognised. In some

places, large masses of altered limestone and quartzite (Cambrian)

are included; in others, pieces of yellow sandstone and dark shale

(Jurassic), or of the bedded lavas. Some of these masses may be 100

yards or more in length. Occasionally a breccia, mainly made up of acid

materials--granophyre or granite,--has been noticed by Mr. Harker along

the north side of the Red Hills, which he thinks may rather be of the

nature of a crush-breccia than a part of the true agglomerate.

The agglomerate of this district is wholly without stratification

or structure of any kind. On the north-west side of Loch Kilchrist,

indeed, it weathers into large tabular forms, the parallel surfaces

of which dip to south-west; but this is probably due only to

jointing. Here and there, dykes of basalt cut the rock in a general

north-westerly direction, but their number is remarkably small when

compared with the prodigious quantity of them in the limestone at the

bottom and opposite side of the valley, some of which may possibly mark

the fissure on which the vent was placed. More abundant and extensive

are the masses of granophyre that rise particularly along the outer

margin of the agglomerate near Loch Kilchrist. These may be connected

with the great boss that forms the Red Hills, of which further details

will be given in Chapter xlvi.[305]

[Footnote 305: The granophyre intrusions in this agglomerate have been

found by Mr. Harker to have taken up and dissolved a considerable

proportion of fragments of gabbro, Chapter xlvi. p. 392.]

The important question of the relation of this agglomerate to the

plateau-basalts does not admit of satisfactory treatment, owing to

destruction of the evidence by the intrusion of the granophyre, and

likewise to enormous denudation. Nevertheless, some traces still remain

to indicate that the basalts once stretched over the site of the vent,

which probably rose through them. Looking westward from the Hanks of

Beinn Dearg Bheag to the other side of Loch Slapin, the geologist sees

the bold basalt-escarpment of Strathaird presenting its truncated beds

to him at a distance of only two miles. That these lavas were once

prolonged eastwards beyond their present limits is obvious, and that

they stretched at least over these two intervening miles can hardly

be doubted. But we can still detect relics of them on the flanks of

Beinn Dearg. As we follow the agglomerate round the margin of the

granophyre that mounts steeply from it, we lose it here and there under

beds of amygdaloidal basalt. The rocks next the great eruptive mass of

the mountain are so indurated and shattered that it is difficult to

separate them from each other and determine their relative positions.

But, so far as I could ascertain, these basalts are fragments of beds

that overlie the agglomerate (Fig. 303). This is not the only place

along the flanks of the Red Hills where portions of the bedded basalts

have survived. Other localities will be subsequently alluded to.

[Illustration:

Fig. 303.--Diagram to show the probable relations of the rocks on

the southern flank of Beinn Dearg Bheag.

_a_, agglomerate; _b_, amygdaloidal and compact basalt-rocks; _c_,

granophyre.

]

The Strath vent has been drilled through the Cambrian limestone, and

as the result of protracted denudation it now towers steeply 500 or

600 feet above that formation on the floor of the valley. Of the

material discharged from it over the surrounding country no certain

trace now remains. We may infer from the nature of the rock which fills

it that towards the end, if not from the beginning of its activity,

its discharges consisted mainly of dust and stones. A cone, of which

the remains are two miles in diameter, must surely have sent its

fragmentary materials far and wide over the surrounding region. But on

the bare platform of older rocks to the south, beyond the bottom of

the agglomerate declivities, not a vestige of these erupted materials

can now be found. Westward the escarpment of Strathaird remains to

assure us that no thick showers of ashes fell at even so short a

distance as two miles, either before or during the outpouring of the

successive basalt sheets still remaining there. We may therefore

conclude with some confidence that here, as at Ardnamurchan, the

vent is younger than at least the older parts of the basalt-plateau.

Unfortunately the uprise of the large bosses of granophyre that stretch

from the Red Hills to Loch Sligachan has entirely destroyed the vent

and its connections in that direction. There is no certain proof that

any molten rock ever issued from this orifice, unless we suppose the

fragmentary patches of amygdaloid on the southern flank of Beinn Dearg

Bheag to be portions of flows that proceeded from this centre of

eruption. The basalt-plateau which still remains in Strathaird no doubt

formerly extended eastwards over Strath and northwards across the site

of the Red Hills and Cuillins, joining on to the continuous tableland

north of Lochs Brittle and Sligachan. How much of the plateau had been

built up here before the outburst of the vent cannot be ascertained.

The agglomerate may possibly, of course, belong to the very latest

period of the plateau-eruptions, or even to a still younger phase of

Tertiary volcanic history. The impression, however, made on my mind by

a study of the evidence from the Western and Faroe Isles is that the

necks of agglomerate, like those of dolerite and basalt, really belong

to different epochs of the plateau period itself; and mark some of

the vents from which the materials of the plateaux were successively

emitted.

The example of Carrick-a-raide (p. 277) is peculiarly suggestive when

we regard it in connexion with the great Strath vent. Already the

progress of denudation has removed at least half of the layer of dust

and stones which, thrown out from that little orifice, fell over the

bare chalk-wolds and black basalt-fields of Antrim. The neck that

marks the position of the volcanic funnel has been largely cut away

by the waves, and is almost entirely isolated among them. The vents

at Canna, Portree and the Faroe Isles, to be afterwards described,

unquestionably belong to the eruptions of the plateau-period, for their

connection with the basalts can be clearly established. At the Strath

vent, however, the march of destruction has been greater. The connexion

between this vent and the materials ejected from it has been entirely

removed, and we can only guess from the size of the remaining neck what

may have been the area covered by the discharges from this largest of

all the volcanic cones of the Inner Hebrides.

Other masses of similar agglomerate are observable in the same region

of Skye, where they not improbably mark the sites of other vents.

Unfortunately their original limits and relations to the rocks through

which the eruptive orifices were drilled have been much obscured by

the uprise of the great masses of gabbro and granophyre of the Cuillin

Hills. Several of these isolated intrusions occur in the midst of the

gabbro, as in Harta Corry and on the west side of the Blaven ridge.

Another mass is interposed between the gabbro and granophyre on Druim

an Eidhne and at the base of the lavas between Druim an Eidhne and

the Camasunary valley. Mr. Harker has found a huge mass of agglomerate

underlying the bedded basalts to the north and west of Belig, one of

the hills on the west side of the large valley that runs from the head

of Loch Slapin to Loch Aynort. This mass has its bottom concealed by

the granophyre which underlies it; but it reaches a maximum thickness

of perhaps 1000 feet, rapidly thinning out and disappearing. It

generally resembles the Strath agglomerate, but is distinguished by

including a large proportion of fragments of gabbro. Mr. Harker remarks

that "a study of these agglomerates points to the existence of both

gabbros and granophyres older than the volcanic series, and therefore

distinct from the gabbros and granophyres now exposed at the surface."

It is a suggestive fact that so many detached masses of agglomerate

should occur around and within the areas of the great eruptive bosses

of gabbro and granophyre. They seem to indicate the former existence

of groups of volcanic vents in these tracts, and may thus account for

the uprise of such large bodies of intrusive material through what must

have been a weakened part of the terrestrial crust.

Further north in Skye a much smaller but more perfectly preserved

vent has been laid open by denudation on the south side of Portree

Bay--a deep inlet which has been cut out of the plateau-basalts and

their underlying platform of Jurassic sandstones and shales. The great

escarpment of the basalts has, at the recess of Camas Garbh, been

trenched by a small rivulet, aided by the presence of two dykes. The

gully thus formed exposes a section of a neck of agglomerate that

underlies the basalts of the upper half of the cliff. This neck is

connected with a thick deposit of volcanic conglomerate and tuff which,

lying between the basalts, extends from the neck to a considerable

distance on either hand. The general relations of the rocks at this

locality are represented in Fig. 304.

[Illustration: Fig. 304.--Section of Volcanic Vent and connected lavas

and tuffs, Scorr, Camas Garbh, Portree Bay, Skye.

_a_, Rudely-bedded dull green tuff; _b_, coarse agglomerate;

_c_, prismatic basalt; _d_, massive jointed basalt; _e_, red

banded decomposing rock, probably of detrital origin; _f_,

plateau-basalts, prismatic and rudely columnar; _g_, dyke of

dolerite, somewhat vesicular, five to six feet broad; _h_, basalt

dyke two to three feet broad; _i_, dyke or sill of similar basalt

to _h_, and possibly connected with it.

]

The agglomerate (_b_) is quite tumultuous, and here and there

strikingly coarse. Some of its included blocks measure five feet in

length. These fragments represent most of the varieties of the lavas

of the district. Large slaggy masses are abundant among them, and

sometimes exhibit the annelide-like elongation of the vesicles which

I have referred to as occasionally displayed by the plateau-basalts.

More than 60 feet of agglomerate are visible in vertical height from

where its base is concealed by debris and vegetation to where its

upper surface passes under a banded rock to be afterwards described.

That this unstratified mass of volcanic detritus marks the site of a

vent can hardly be doubted, although denudation has not revealed the

actual walls of the chimney. The steep grassy slopes do not permit

the relations of the rocks to be everywhere seen, but the agglomerate

appears to pass laterally into finer, rudely-stratified material of a

similar kind, which extends towards east and west as a thick deposit

between the bedded basalts. Possibly denudation has only advanced far

enough to lay bare the crater and its surrounding sheets of fragmentary

material, while the chimney lies still buried underneath.

To the east or left of the agglomerate the detritus becomes less

coarse, and shows increasing indications of a bedded arrangement. Close

to the agglomerate the dip of the coarse tuff is towards that rock at

about 10°. A few yards further east a sheet of very slaggy basalt is

seen to lie against the tuff, which it does not pierce. The vesicles

in this adhering cake of lava have been pulled out in the direction of

the slope till they have become narrow tubes four or five inches long

and parallel to each other. Some parts of this rock have a curved ropy

surface, like that of well-known Vesuvian lavas, suggestive of the

molten rock having flowed in successive thin viscous sheets down the

slope, which has a declivity of about 30°. This part of the section may

possibly preserve a fragment of the actual inner slope of the crater

formed of rudely-bedded tuffs.

Continuing still eastward, we find the feebly stratified tuff (_a_) to

be perhaps 200 feet thick. It forms a grassy declivity that descends

from the basalt-escarpment above to the grass-covered platform which

overlies a lower group of basalts. The visible portion of this tuff

presents a thoroughly volcanic character, being made up of the usual

dull dirty-green granular paste, through which are dispersed angular

and rough lumps of slag and pieces of more solid basalt, varying up

to a foot or two feet in length. These stones are generally disposed

parallel to the indistinct bedding, but are sometimes placed on end,

as if they had assumed that position on falling from an explosive

shower. Among the smaller stones, pieces of a finely vesicular basic

pumice are frequent and are among the most strikingly volcanic products

of the deposit. From a characteristic sample of these stones, a thin

slice was prepared and placed in Mr. Harker's hands. The following are

his observations on it:--"A very compact dark grey rock, amygdaloidal

on a minute scale. The lighter grey crust is probably due merely to

weathering, and the specimen seems to be a distinct fragment, not a

true bomb. The slice shows it to be essentially a brown glass with only

occasional microscopic crystals of a basic plagioclase. It has been

highly vesicular, and the vesicles are now filled by various secondary

products, including a chloritic mineral, nearly colourless and singly

refracting in thin section, and a zeolite."

Tracing now the tuff from the west or right side of the vent, we can

follow it to a greater distance. No abrupt line can be detected here,

any more than on the other side, between the agglomerate and the tuff.

The latter rock extends under the overlying plateau of basalt, at least

as far west as Portree Loch, a distance of fully a mile, but rapidly

diminishes in thickness in that direction. Traces of what is probably

the same tuff can be detected between the basalts at Ach na Hannait,

more than three miles to the south (Fig. 305). It is thus probable that

from the Portree vent fragmentary discharges took place over an area of

several square miles.

Above the agglomerate of this vent two lavas may be seen to start

towards opposite directions. One of these (_c_), already referred to,

is a dull prismatic basalt with a slaggy bottom, its vesicles being

pulled out in the direction of the general bedding of the section. It

descends by a twist or step, and then lies on the inclined surface of

the tuff which dips towards the agglomerate and seems to pass into

that rock. Further east this basalt increases in thickness and forms

the lowest of the basalt-sheets of the cliff. The lava that commences

on the west side of the agglomerate (_d_) is a massive jointed basalt,

which, though not seen at the vent, appears immediately to the west of

it and rapidly swells out so as to become one of the thickest sheets of

the locality. It lies upon the rudely-bedded tuff, and is covered by

the other basalts of the cliff.

That these two basalts came out of this vent cannot be affirmed. If

they did so at different times, their emission must have been followed

by the explosion which cleared the funnel and left the central mass

of agglomerate there. But that some kind of saucer-shaped depression

was still left above the site of the vent is indicated by the curious

elliptical mass of rock (_e_) that lies immediately above the

agglomerate, from which it is sharply marked off. This is one of the

most puzzling rocks in the district, probably in large measure owing to

its advanced state of decay. It is dull-red in colour, and decomposes

into roughly parallel layers, so that at a short distance it looks like

a bedded tuff, or like some of the crumbling varieties of banded lavas.

I could not obtain specimens fresh enough to put its nature and origin

beyond dispute. Whatever may have been its history, this ferruginous

rock rests in a flat basin-shaped hollow directly above the agglomerate

of the vent. The form of this depression corresponds fairly well with

what we may suppose to have been the final position and shape of the

crater of the little volcano. The rock that occupies the bowl dies out

towards the east on the face of the cliff, and the prismatic basalt

(_c_) is then immediately covered by the rest of the basalt-sheets

of the plateau (_f_). On the west side its precise termination is

concealed by grass. But it must rapidly dwindle in that direction

also, for not many yards away it is found to have disappeared, and the

basalts (_d_ and _f_) come together.

Though the decayed state of this rock does not warrant any very

confident opinion regarding its history, I am inclined to look upon

it as a deposit of much disintegrated volcanic detritus washed into

the hollow of the old crater when it had become filled with water, and

had passed into the condition of a _maar_. The peculiarly oxidized

condition of its materials points probably to long atmospheric

exposure, and an examination of the surrounding parts of the district

furnishes more or less distinct evidence that a considerable lapse of

time did actually intervene between the cessation of the eruptions of

the Portree volcano and the next great basalt-floods of this part of

Skye.

That volcanic eruptions from other vents continued after the Portree

vent had become extinct is proved by the great sheets of basalt (_f_)

that overspread it, and still bury a large tract of the fragmentary

material which it discharged. At a later time a fissure that was

opened across the vent, allowed the uprise of a basalt dyke (_g_), and

subsequently another injection of similar material took place along the

same line of weakness (_h_).

Before leaving this interesting locality we may briefly take note

of the distribution of the ashes and stones ejected by the volcano,

and the evidence for the relative length of the interval between

the outflow of the lavas below and that of those above the tuff

and volcanic conglomerate. These deposits may be traced in clear

sections along the base of the cliffs for a mile to the west of the

vent. They thin away so rapidly in that direction that at a distance

of three-quarters of a mile they do not much exceed fifty feet in

thickness. At Camas Bàn they consist mainly of a fine, dull-green,

granular, rudely-stratified basalt-tuff, through which occasional

angular pieces of different lavas and rough slags are irregularly

dispersed. These stones occur here and there in rows, suggestive of

more vigorous discharges, the layers between the platforms of coarser

detritus being occupied by fine tuff. Some of the ejected blocks are

imbedded on end--an indication of the force with which they were

projected so as to fall nearly a mile from the crater.

The upper parts of the tuff pass upward into fine yellow, brown, and

black clays a few feet in thickness, the darker layers being full of

carbonaceous streaks. On this horizon the coal of Portree was formerly

mined. The workings, however, have long been abandoned, and, owing to

the fall of large blocks from the basalt-cliff overhead, the entrance

to the mine is almost completely blocked up. One wooden prop may still

be seen keeping up the roof of the adit, which is here a slaggy basalt.

To the east and south-east of the Portree vent, extensive landslips

of the volcanic series and of the underlying Jurassic formations make

it hardly possible to trace the continuation of the tuff-zone in that

direction. To the south, however, at a distance of rather more than

three miles, what is probably the same stratigraphical horizon may be

conveniently examined from Ach na Hannait for some way to the north

of Tianavaig Bay. At the former locality the calcareous sandstones

of the Inferior Oolite are unconformably covered by the group of

rocks represented in Fig. 305. At the bottom of the volcanic series

lies a sheet of nodular dolerite with a slaggy upper surface (_a_).

Wrapping round the projections and filling up the depressions of this

lava comes a thin group of sedimentary strata from an inch or two to

eighteen inches or more in thickness (_b_). These deposits consist of

hardened shale charged with macerated fragments of linear leaves and

other plant-remains, including and passing into streaks of coal, which

may be looked upon as probably occupying the same horizon with the

coal of Portree. But here, instead of reposing on a mass of stratified

tuff, the carbonaceous layers lie on one of the bedded lavas. The tuff

has died out in the intervening three miles, yet that some of the

discharges of volcanic detritus reached even to this distance, and

that they took place during the accumulation of these layers of mud

and vegetation, is shown by the occurrence in the shales of pieces of

finely amygdaloidal basalt, from less than an inch to six inches in

length, likewise lapilli of a fine minutely cellular basic pumice, like

some varieties of palagonite. The overlying dolerite (_c_) becomes

finely prismatic at its junction with the sedimentary layers and has

probably indurated them.

[Illustration:

Fig. 305.--Section of the Volcanic Series at Ach na Hannait, south

of Portree, Skye.

]

This intercalation of a shaly and coaly band among the lavas can be

followed northward along the coast. In some places it has been invaded

by dykes, sills, and threads of basalt on the most remarkably minute

scale, of which I shall give some account in Chapter xlii. (see Fig.

321). North of Tianavaig Bay--that is, about three-quarters of a mile

nearer to the Portree vent--a perceptible increase in the amount of

volcanic material is observable among the shales and leaf-beds. Not

only are lapilli of basic pumice abundant, but the volcanic detritus

has accumulated here and there in sufficient amount to form a band of

dull greenish-brown tuff.

These coast-sections in the neighbourhood of Portree afford additional

illustrations of the characteristic fact, on which I have already

insisted, that the interstratifications of sedimentary material in the

basalt-plateaux frequently terminate upward in leaf-beds, thin coals,

or layers of shale, full of indistinctly preserved remains of plants.

As I have endeavoured to show, this vegetation, which was undoubtedly

terrestrial, probably grew not far from the sites where its remains

have been preserved. Leaves and seeds would naturally be blown or

washed into pools on the lava-fields, and would gather there among

the mud and sand carried by rain from the surrounding ground. Such a

topography and such a sequence of events point to intervals of longer

or shorter duration between the successive outpourings of basalt. It

was probably during one of these intervals of quietude that the crater

of the Portree volcano became a _maar_ and was finally silted up.

Reference has already been made to a conspicuous mass of agglomerate

which occurs at the east end of the island of Canna, and marks the site

of an important volcanic vent belonging to the Small Isles plateau. A

portion of it projects from the grassy slopes, and rises vertically

above the beach as a picturesque crag, in front of the precipice of

Compass Hill (Fig. 306). But the same rock may be traced southward to

the Coroghon Mòr, and north-westward in the lower part of the cliffs to

a little beyond the sea-stack of An Stòll. It has thus a diameter of at

least 3000 feet. Westward it passes under the conglomerate described in

Chapter xxxviii. Its eastern extension has been concealed by the sea.

[Illustration: Fig. 306.--View of part of a Volcanic Neck at the

eastern end of the island of Canna. (From a photograph by Miss Thom.)]

The materials that fill this vent consist of a typical agglomerate

composed entirely, or almost entirely, of volcanic detritus. The

embedded blocks vary up to eight feet in diameter or even more. They

are chiefly fragments of various basalts and andesites, generally

vesicular or amygdaloidal. Some of these, which have evidently been

broken off from already consolidated lavas, are angular or subangular

in shape, and their steam-holes are cut across by the outer surfaces

of the stones. Where they consist of calcite, zeolite, etc., the

amygdales so exactly resemble those of the bedded basalts of the

plateaux that, as already remarked, we must believe them to have been

already filled by infiltration before the disruption of the rocks by

volcanic explosions. Other blocks are true bombs, with a fine-grained

crust outside and a more cellular texture inside, the vesicles of the

outer crust being sometimes dragged round the surface of the stone.

The variety of materials included among the ejected blocks and the

abundance of pieces of the red bole which so generally separates the

plateau-basalts indicate that a considerable thickness of bedded lavas

has probably been broken through by the vent.

Beside the volcanic materials, occasional angular pieces of red

(Torridon) sandstone may be observed in the agglomerate. The paste is a

comminuted mass of the same material as the blocks, tolerably compact,

and entirely without any trace of stratification.

The actual margin of this vent has nowhere been detected by me. We

never reach here the base of the volcanic series, for it is sunk under

the sea-level. On the other hand, the upper limits of the agglomerate

have been partially effaced or obscured by the conglomerates which

overlie it. From the breadth of ground across which the agglomerate

can be followed along the shore, the vent might be regarded as having

been perhaps not less than three-quarters of a mile in diameter. But

there is the same difficulty here as at the Strath vent in Skye in

determining the actual limits of the volcanic funnel. Possibly there

may have been more than one vent in close proximity. Even if there was

only one, the existing agglomerate may include not only what filled the

chimney, but also a portion of what had accumulated round the orifice

and formed the external cone. That the volcano continued for some time

in vigorous eruption may be judged from the amount of material ejected

from it, the large size of its blocks, and the distance to which they

were sometimes thrown.

The pieces of Torridon Sandstone were no doubt derived from the

extension of that formation underneath Canna. On the opposite island of

Rum, where these pre-Cambrian red sandstones are copiously developed,

they form the platform through which the Tertiary volcanic series has

been erupted. The several remaining outliers of the bedded basalts,

referred to in a previous chapter (p. 215 and Fig. 267) as visible on

the west side of this island, show that the basalt-plateau of Small

Isles, which once covered that area, rested immediately on the inclined

edges of the Torridon Sandstones. Probably the same structure stretches

westward under Canna and Sanday. No traces of any Jurassic strata

have been detected beneath the volcanic rocks of Rum, though they

are so well developed a few miles to the east in the island of Eigg.

Either they were not deposited over the pre-Cambrian rocks of Rum, or

they had been removed from that ancient ridge before the beginning

of the Tertiary volcanic period. Certainly I have not detected a

single recognizable fragment of any Jurassic sedimentary rock in the

agglomerate of Canna.

This Canna vent exhibits, better than is usually shown, the occurrence

of dykes and irregular injections of lava through the agglomerate.

A large mass of a finely columnar basalt runs up from the beach at

Garbh Asgarnish. A similar rock forms several detached crags a little

further south, particularly in the headland of Coroghon Mòr and the

island of Alman. Here the basalt is beautifully columnar, its slender

prisms curving from a central line until their ends abut against the

agglomerate. The truly intrusive character of this basalt is well shown

on the southern front of Coroghon Mòr, and on the northern face of

Alman, as represented in the accompanying diagrams (Figs. 307 and 308).

[Illustration:

Fig. 307.--Columnar Basalt invading Agglomerate of Volcanic Vent,

Coroghon Mòr, Isle of Canna. (Height above 20 feet.)

]

[Illustration:

Fig. 308.--Columnar Basalt invading Volcanic Conglomerate, north

side of Alman Islet, Canna.

]

Although there is no conclusive evidence that these intrusions belong

to the time of the activity of the vent, yet they differ so much from

the ordinary dykes (one of which also cuts the agglomerate and ascends

through the conglomerates and basalts above), are confined so markedly

to the vent and its immediate proximity, and resemble so closely the

basalt-injections of other vents, such as those of the Carboniferous

and Permian necks of Scotland, that they may with probability be

regarded as part of the mechanism of the Canna volcano.

Though the form and size of the vent of this volcano cannot be

precisely defined, the upper part of its agglomerate, as we have seen

(_ante_, p. 219), is dovetailed in the most interesting way with the

series of coarse conglomerates, which indicate strong river-action in

this part of the volcanic area during the time of the eruption of the

plateau-basalts.

The agglomerate vents described in the foregoing pages as occurring

in Antrim and among the Inner Hebrides all appear either in the midst

of the plateau-basalts or in close proximity to them. Before quitting

the Scottish examples, I may refer to some that rise through much more

ancient formations at a distance from any portion of the volcanic

plateaux, and yet may with probability be assigned to the Tertiary

volcanic period.

During the progress of the Geological Survey through the district of

Applecross, in the western part of the mainland of Ross-shire, and far

away from the basalt-plateau of Skye, Mr. John Horne[306] has found two

small necks rising on each side of a line of fracture, through gently

inclined Torridon Sandstones. They are conspicuous from a distance by

the verdure of their slopes, in contrast with the brown tints of the

surrounding moorland. The larger of the two necks measures about 180 by

150 feet, and abruptly truncates the beds of Torridon Sandstone, which

as they approach it assume a bleached aspect and become indurated.

The material filling this vent is an agglomerate made up mainly of

pieces of Torridon Sandstone and grit which, though generally small,

occasionally measure a foot across, and in one case were found to reach

a length of four feet. They are not as a rule markedly altered, but

some of them have acquired a glazed or vitreous texture. Besides these

fragments of the general rock of the district, there occur abundant

lapilli of a basic volcanic rock, found by Mr. Teall to consist of

porphyritic felspar, extremely minute acicular microlites of felspar,

somewhat irregular transparent spaces now occupied by a yellowish-green

substance, and interstitial matter. At the south end of the vent a

small mass of decayed basalt appears to pierce the agglomerate.

[Footnote 306: _Trans. Geol. Soc. Edin._ vii. (1894), p. 35.]

[Illustration: Fig. 309.--View of neck-like mass of breccia, Brochel,

Raasay.]

Though there is no indication of the age of these necks, they agree

so closely in general character with known vents of the Tertiary

volcanic plateaux that there cannot be much hesitation in regarding

them as dating from the same great period of basalt-eruption. But no

relic now exists anywhere around of lavas or tuffs ejected from them.

They rise on the bare Applecross hills, 1000 feet above sea-level, two

miles from the shore, and about ten miles from the nearest outlier of

the basalt-plateau in the Dùn Can of Raasay. If they once discharged

streams of lava that united with the rest of the plateau, the total

destruction of this lava affords another impressive picture of the

waste which the volcanic rocks of the Inner Hebrides have undergone.

The large proportion of Torridon Sandstone blocks in these two

Applecross necks suggests, however, that the orifices never became

active volcanic vents. They may have been mere spiracles, or

blow-holes, where the funnels drilled by explosive vapours were filled

up with the debris of the rocks that were blown out. But that lava did

rise within them is shown by the basic lapilli in the agglomerate, and

by the basalt which in both vents has found its way up the chimney.

In the island of Raasay Mr. Teall, during the summer of 1894,

observed a group of curious neck-like masses of breccia which pierce

the Torridon Sandstone near Brochel (Fig. 309). The blocks in them

are large angular unaltered pieces of the surrounding sandstones

and shales, sometimes ten feet or more in length, and the matrix is

sometimes pure crystalline calcite like Iceland spar. The breccia is

generally coarsest towards the outer margin. But though the Lewisian

gneiss exists immediately below the thin cake of Torridonian strata,

not a fragment of it could either Mr. Teall or I, when I visited the

locality with him, find among the components of the breccia. Nor did

we detect any trace of volcanic material. The general ground-plan of

these masses is elliptical, the most northerly measuring 30 yards in

diameter. Where the junction of the breccia with the Torridon strata

can be seen it is a nearly vertical one, the sandstones and shales

being much jumbled and broken, but not sensibly indurated. This little

cluster of patches of breccia can hardly be due to local crushing of

the rocks. Their definite outlines and composition seem rather to

indicate spiracles of Tertiary time, which never became vents erupting

lava or ashes. The absence of fragments of the underlying gneiss may be

accounted for if we suppose that the orifices were completely cleared

out by the violence of the explosions and were afterwards filled up

by the falling in of the walls of the higher parts now removed by

denudation, which consisted of Torridon Sandstone and shale.[307]

[Footnote 307: It is on one of these neck-like patches of breccia that

Brochel Castle stands, of which Macculloch gave so sensational a

picture in one of the plates of his _Western Isles_.]

Further research may detect at still greater distances from the

basalt-plateaux ancient volcanic necks that might, with more or less

probability, be referred to the Tertiary period. As an instance of this

kind, I refer to the neck at Bunowen, County Galway, recently described

by Mr. M'Henry and Professor Sollas. Though so remote from the Tertiary

basalt-plateaux, the rock of this boss is an olivine-basalt presenting

a close resemblance to some of the rocks of Antrim.[308]

[Footnote 308: _Trans. Roy. Irish Acad._, 1896].

As a final illustration of Tertiary volcanic vents I will now describe

the Faroe group already alluded to (vol. i. p. 63, vol. ii. p. 256).

It was almost by a kind of happy accident that these vents were

discovered. Noticing at a distance of a mile or more from the deck of

a steam-yacht that the base of the great basalt cliffs on the west

side of Stromö were varied by what looked like agglomerate, I steamed

inshore, and was delighted to find, as the vessel drew near to the

cliff, that the agglomerate assumed definite boundaries and occurred in

several distinct patches, until at last it presented the unmistakable

outlines of a group of vents underlying and overspread by the bedded

basalts of the plateau. Favoured by an unusually calm sea, I was

enabled to boat into every nook and round every buttress and islet of

this part of the coast-line.

[Illustration: Fig. 310.--View of Volcanic Neck piercing and overlain

by the Plateau-Basalts, Stromö, entrance of Vaagöfjord, Faroe Islands.

(From a photograph by Colonel Evans.)]

The basalt-plateau here presents to the western ocean a nearly vertical

escarpment which must reach a height of at least 1000 feet (see Fig.

328), and displays a magnificent section of the bedded lavas. The

lower part of this section shows chiefly the banded structure already

described, the layers of different consistency being etched out by the

weather in such a way as to give them the look of stratified rocks.

In the upper part of the precipice columnar and jointed or prismatic

sheets are more common, but the most prominent band is the great sill,

to which further reference will be made in the next Chapter.

In the course of the gradual retreat of the cliff, as the waves tunnel

its base, and slice after slice is detached from its vertical front,

a group of at least five small vents has been uncovered lying along a

nearly north and south line. Of two of these a segment remains still

on the cliff-wall and passes under the basalts; the others have been

dissected and half cut away from the cliff, while groups of stacks and

rocky islets of agglomerate may mark the position of others almost

effaced. The horizontal distance within which the vents are crowded

is probably less than half a mile, but the lofty proportions of the

precipice tend to lead the eye to underestimate both heights and

distances.

[Illustration: Fig. 311.--Section of the same Neck as that shown in

Fig. 310.]

The agglomerate is a thoroughly volcanic rock, consisting of large and

small blocks of various basalts, among which large slags are specially

conspicuous, the whole being wrapped in a granular matrix of comminuted

volcanic detritus. The arrangement of this material is best seen in the

fourth vent (Figs. 310 and 311). In this characteristic volcanic neck

(_b_ in Fig. 311) the boundary walls, as laid bare on the face of the

precipice, are vertical, and are formed of the truncated ends of the

banded lavas (_a_ _a_) which have been blown out at the time of the

formation of the orifice. The visible diameter of the vent was roughly

estimated by me to be about 100 yards. No appreciable alteration was

observed in the ends of the lavas next the vent.

The agglomerate is coarsest in the centre, where huge blocks of

slaggy lava lie imbedded in the amorphous mass of compacted debris.

On either side of this structureless central portion the agglomerate

is distinctly stratified from the walls towards the middle, at angles

of 30° to 35°. Even from a distance it can be observed that the upper

limit of the agglomerate is saucer-shaped, the sloping sides of the

depression dipping towards the centre of the neck at about the same

angle as the rudely-stratified agglomerate underneath. From the bottom

of this basin to the sea-level may be a vertical distance of some 30

yards. The basin itself has been filled up by three successive flows

of basalt, of which the first (_c_) has merely overflowed the bottom,

the second (_d_), entering from the northern rim of the basin, extends

across to the southern slope, while the third (_e_), also flowing from

the north, has filled up the remainder of the hollow and extended

completely across it. The next succeeding lava (_f_) stretched over the

site in such a way as to bury it entirely, and to provide a level floor

for the piling up of the succeeding sheets of basalt.

[Illustration: Fig. 312.--Volcanic Neck close to that shown in Figs.

310 and 311.]

[Illustration:

Fig. 313.--Section of wall of another Neck of agglomerate in the

same group with those represented in Figs. 310, 311, and 312.

]

The second vent, which is represented in Fig 312, exhibits the same

features, but with some additional points of interest. It measures

roughly about 20 yards in diameter at the sea-level, rises through the

same group of banded basalt (_a_ _a_), and is filled with a similar

agglomerate (_b_). Its more northerly wall is now coincident with a

line of fault (_h_) which ascends the cliff, and probably marks some

subsidence after the eruptions had ceased. The southern wall shows

that a dyke of basalt (_g_) has risen between the agglomerate and the

banded basalts, and that a second dyke (_g´_) traverses the latter at

a distance of a few feet. In this instance, also, the upper surface of

the agglomerate forms a cup-shaped depression which has been filled

in by two successive streams of lava (_c_, _d_). Among the succeeding

lavas (_e_) the prominent sill (_f_) has been intruded, to which

further allusion is made on p. 323.

These necks are obviously volcanic vents belonging to the time of the

basaltic eruptions. They have been drilled through the basalts of

the lower part of the cliff, but have been buried under those of the

central and higher parts. The arrangement of their component materials

in rude beds dipping towards the middle of each vent shows that the

ejected dust and stones must have fallen back into the orifice so as

to be rudely stratified towards the centre of the chimney, which was

finally closed by its own last discharges of coarse detritus. The

saucer-shaped upper limit of the agglomerate seems to indicate, as has

been suggested above in the case of the Portree volcano, that after

the eruptions ceased each vent remained as a hollow or _maar_ on the

surface of the lava-fields. And the manner in which they are filled

with successive sheets of basalt shows that in course of time other

eruptions from neighbouring orifices gave forth streams of lava which,

in flowing over the volcanic fields, eventually buried and obliterated

each of the vents.

[Illustration: TO ACCOMPANY SIR ARCHIBALD GEIKIE'S "ANCIENT VOLCANOES

OF BRITAIN"

Map VI MAP OF THE TERTIARY VOLCANIC REGION OF THE INNER HEBRIDES

The Edinburgh Geographical Institute Copyright J. G. Bartholomew]

In the destruction of the precipice some of the vents have been so much

cut away that only a small part of the wall is left, with a portion of

the agglomerate adhering to it. The third neck, for instance, affords

the section represented in Fig. 313, where the horizontal sheets of

basalt (_a_) have still a kind of thick pellicle of the volcanic

detritus (_b_) adhering to what must have been part of the side of the

orifice of eruption. The waves have cut out a cave at the base, so that

we can, by boat, get behind the agglomerate and see the margin of the

volcanic funnel in the roof overhead.

The fragment of geological history so picturesquely laid bare on the

Stromö cliffs presents a significant illustration of what seems to

have been a frequent, if not the normal type of volcanic vent in the

Tertiary basalt-plateaux. By the fortunate accident that denudation has

not proceeded too far, we are able to observe the original tops of at

least two of the vents, and to see how such volcanic orifices, which

were doubtless abundant all over these plateaux, came to be entombed

under the ever-increasing pile of accumulating basalt.

There is still one feature of interest in these cliff-sections which

deserves notice here. Every geologist who has studied the composition

of the basalt-plateaux has remarked the comparatively insignificant

part played by tuffs in these volcanic accumulations. Hundreds of

feet of successive basalt-sheets may often be examined without the

discovery of any intercalation of fragmental materials, and even where

such intercalations do occur they are for the most part quite thin and

extremely local. I found it impossible to scale the precipice for the

purpose of ascertaining whether around the Stromö vents, and connected

with them, there might not be some beds of tuff interstratified between

the basalts. If such beds exist, they can only be of trifling thickness

and extent. Here, then, are examples of once active vents, the funnels

of which are still choked up with coarse fragmentary ejections, yet

from which little or no discharge of ashes and stones took place over

the surrounding ground. They seem to have been left as crater-like

hollows on the bare surface of the lava-fields.

The Ancient Volcanoes of Great Britain, Volume 2 (of 2) · 第 10 / 20 章