CHAPTER III.

Fish.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt,

and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large,

in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar

is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness.

Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in

a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the

gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put

on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled

in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to

being put in the pan.

* * * * *

FISH FRIED IN OIL.

Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in

this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When

prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready

with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it

freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it,

then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at

boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown

colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire

for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil

should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it

will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained

off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served

cold.

* * * * *

FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY.

Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over

with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling

butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot.

* * * * *

ESCOBECHE.

Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a

pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil,

a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a

little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions;

when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand

twenty-four hours before serving.

* * * * *

FISH STEWED WHITE.

Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till

the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place

the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground

allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is

done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of

two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold

water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into

the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls

should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made

in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe,

if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread

warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste;

form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate

size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon

and parsley.

* * * * *

AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION.

Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several

onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon

juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish,

and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the

gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then

return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the

preceding receipt, and boil up.

* * * * *

FISH STEWED BROWN.

Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon,

halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a

cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper,

salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the

above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and

thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of

port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement.

* * * * *

WATER SOUCHY.

Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down

with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and

then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with

pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish.

* * * * *

A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP.

Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich

gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten

cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then

mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and

lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan,

mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens.

Pike is excellent stewed in this manner.

* * * * *

FILLETS OF FISH.

Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to

the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice

dish.

If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it

thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are

usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good

stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and

mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small.

* * * * *

BAKED HADDOCK.

Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat,

and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on

warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake

in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with

butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it

is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire,

the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it

without any other being added.

Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter

should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a

ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed

into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish.

The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of

a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of

suet.

* * * * *

A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS.

Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an

hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour

this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white

pepper, broil them and serve them very hot.

* * * * *

BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR.

Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a

deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of

cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities

of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle

oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt.

* * * * *

FISH SALAD.

Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the

best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce

cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles

thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a

shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices;

a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture

may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the

yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a

little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful

of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and

worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and

placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish.

* * * * *

IMPANADA.

Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep

dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made

of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with

small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a

little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly.

* * * * *

WHITE BAIT.

This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to

dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown

from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them

lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them

into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity

of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling

butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered

spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly

on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is

always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and

are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne

pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice.

This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection.

* * * * *

A DUTCH FRICANDELLE.

Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in

small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the

crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three

eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish

and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with

anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be

sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes

before the fire to brown.

* * * * *

FISH FRITTERS.

Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry

of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry

them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in

this way.

* * * * *

FISH OMELET.

Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make

it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a

napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they

should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation

for omelets than for fritters.

* * * * *

SCALLOPED FISH.

Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin

scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little

cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for

ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed,

or an anchovy will be found an improvement.

* * * * *

ANOTHER WAY.

Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg,

sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped

parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon,

drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire.

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