Northwestern University School of Pharmacy.
The gentle fair on nervous tea relies,
Whilst gay good nature sparkles in her eyes.
--_Crabbe_: "Inebriety."
The highly esteemed drink referred to in the above lines is made
from the leaves and very young terminal branches of a shrub known as
_Camellia Thea_. The shrub is spreading, usually two or three meters
high, though it may attain a height of nine or ten meters. It has
smooth, dark-green, alternate, irregularly serrate-dentate, lanceolate
to obovate, blunt-pointed, simple leaves. The young leaves and branches
are woolly owing to the presence of numerous hair-cells. The flowers
are perfect, solitary or in twos and threes in the axils of the
leaves. They are white and rather showy. Some authors state that they
are fragrant, while others state that they are practically odorless.
Stamens are numerous. The ovary is three-celled, with one seed in each
cell, which is about the size of a cherry seed.
The tea-plant is no doubt a native of India, upper Assam, from whence
it was early introduced into China, where it is now cultivated on an
immense scale. It is, however, also extensively cultivated in various
parts of India, in Japan, Java, Australia, Sicily, Corea, and other
tropical and subtropical countries and islands. It is also cultivated
to some extent in the southern United States, as in Carolina, Georgia,
Mississippi, and California, but apparently without any great success.
The plant is extensively grown in green-houses and conservatories on
account of its beauty.
According to a Japanese myth the tea plant originated as follows: A
very pious follower of Buddha, Darma, vowed that he would pray without
ceasing. He had prayed for some years when finally the Evil One
over-powered him and he fell asleep. When he awoke he felt so chagrined
and humiliated that he cut off both his eyelids and threw them from
him. From the spot where they fell grew two plants endowed with the
property of dispelling sleep. Chinese writers maintain that priests of
Buddha introduced the plant from India. Some authorities are inclined
to believe that the plant is a native of China; others, that it was
brought from Corea to China about the ninth century.
Tea-drinking was supposed to have been discovered by a servant
of Emperor Buttei, 150 B. C., but concerning this there is much
uncertainty. It is said to have been in use in Japan as early as 729
of our era. The first definite information about tea-consumption in
China dates from the year 1550, when a Persian merchant brought tea
from that country to Venice. At a little later period we find tea
mentioned in various letters and documents of travelers and merchants,
yet it is evident that it was a costly and rare article as late as
1660. In 1664 the East India Company presented the queen of England
with two pounds of tea. In fact, it was not until the beginning of the
eighteenth century and later that tea began to be used in different
parts of Europe. During the latter part of the seventeenth century and
the beginning of the eighteenth century tea-houses were established
in various cities of Europe, especially in England. At the present
time tea-houses, like coffee-houses, have become practically extinct
in civilized countries, but that does not imply that tea-drinking
and coffee-drinking are on the wane. Among the English and Slavs
tea-parties are all the rage. The favorite Gesellschaft _Kaffee_,
coffee-party, of German housewives indicates that they give coffee the
preference. The biggest tea-party on record was doubtless the so-called
Boston Tea Party, at which tea valued at £18,000 sterling was destroyed.
In spite of the tropical origin of the plant the largest quantities of
tea are consumed in northern countries, notably in Russia and Asiatic
Russia. Large quantities are consumed in England and the United States.
Most authorities are agreed that the different kinds of tea on the
market are derived from the same species of plant. Some admit a variety
_C. Thea var. viridis_. The following are the principal teas of the
market and the manner of their preparation:
1. _Green Tea._ After collecting the leaves are allowed to lie for
about two hours in warmed pans and stirred and then rolled upon small
bamboo tables, whereupon they are further dried upon hurdles and again
in heated pans for about one hour, accompanied by stirring. The leaves
now assume a bluish-green color, which is frequently enhanced by adding
Prussian blue or indigo. Of these green teas the most important are
Gunpowder, Twankay, Hyson, Young Hyson, Hyson skin, Songla, Soulang,
and Imperial.
2. _Black Tea._ The leaves are allowed to lie in heaps for a day, when
they are thoroughly shaken and mixed. After another period of rest, two
to three days, they are dried and rolled much as green tea. In the
storing process the leaves undergo a fermentation which develops the
aroma and the dark color. The following are the principal varieties:
Campoe, Congou, Linki-sam, Padre Souchon (caravan tea), Pecoe,
Souchong, and Bohe.
In some countries the teas are scented with jasmine flowers or
orange flowers. This is, however, no longer extensively practiced.
The essentially Chinese custom of coloring teas with Prussian blue,
gypsum, and indigo is dying out, at least so far as the export trade
is concerned, because intelligent civilized consumers are beginning to
prefer the uncolored teas. Competent authorities maintain that there is
not enough of the coloring substances added to be harmful. The workmen
preparing the better qualities of tea are not permitted to eat fish,
as the very enduring and penetrating fish-flavor would be transmitted
to the tea in the thorough handling. It seems, however, that a more or
less distinct fishy flavor is perceptible in many teas, even the better
qualities.
Tea-dust consists of remnants from tea-chests, dust from the working
tables upon which the leaves are rolled--in fact, tea-refuse of all
kinds. It is certainly not a desirable article. Besides true tea there
are leaves and other parts of a great variety of plants which have been
used as tea. To enumerate and describe these would be impracticable in
this paper. The following are a few of the more important: Paraguay
tea, or maté, is highly esteemed in South America. The Coreans prepare
tea from ginger. The poor Siberians use cabbage leaves. Teas are made
from the leaves of a great variety of herbs which are supposed to have
medicinal or stimulating properties similar to those of tea. Peppermint
tea and chamomile tea are greatly esteemed in certain localities.
Concerning the adulteration of tea there seems to be considerable
difference of opinion, some authorities maintaining that adulteration
is common, while others maintain that it is very rare, indeed. There
is, however, little doubt that used tea is frequently redried,
rerolled, and resold as good tea. Willow leaves, strawberry leaves,
and mulberry leaves are said to be added occasionally.
Every housewife knows that _good_ tea is expensive. Since the different
teas are all from the same species of plant why should there be such
a difference in price? The expensive teas consist of the very young
leaves and terminal branches and are carefully dried and prepared under
special supervision. The young leaves and branches have a more delicate
flavor. To determine whether a sample of tea consists of young leaves
or not soak it in water, carefully roll out the leaves, and measure
them. If the majority of leaves measure an inch or more in length it is
a poor quality. It must be remembered that even fair medium qualities
are mixed; that is, they consist of mature and immature leaves. The
best and most expensive teas are often sold at one hundred dollars per
pound. They are never exported, but consumed by high Chinese officials.
Imperial tea is prepared under the direct supervision of royal
government officials.
Tea owes its stimulating properties to an active constituent known
as thein, which is in all respects similar to caffein, the active
constituent of coffee. The flavor which is developed by the drying
process is due to several constituents. Besides these substances tea
also contains considerable tannin. Tea consumed in moderate quantities
is beneficial rather than otherwise. Its injurious properties are due
to the tannin, which affects digestion. If consumed in large quantities
for a long time the thein causes nervousness and the tannin causes
various dyspeptic conditions. In China some chew the leaves treated
with arsenic to improve the complexion. The whitening of the complexion
is, however, due to the arsenic and not the tea.
Tea is prepared in different ways in different countries, nevertheless
the preparation of a good cup of tea is comparatively simple, leaving
out of consideration the many paraphernalia used by different nations
and which really have no effect except that upon the imagination. The
following is Emperor Kien Lung's (1680) recipe for making tea, and
which is frequently found upon Chinese tea cups: "Over a moderate
fire place a vessel with three feet, showing by its color and form
that it has been much used; fill with clear water of melted snow and
heat it until the water will turn a fish white or a lobster red. Pour
this water into a cup containing the leaves of a select variety of
tea; allow it to stand until the first rising vapors, which form a
dense cloud, become gradually less and float over the surface as a
faint mist. Drink this precious liquid slowly and thou wilt find it a
powerful dissipator of the five sorrows which disturb our minds. The
sweet and peaceful rest which we owe to this drink we may taste and
feel, but may not describe." This recipe, although two hundred years
old, has not been improved upon. Stated in a little simpler form the
recipe would read: In a cup with good tea leaves pour clean boiling
water and allow to stand five or six minutes; decant and drink slowly.
Tea leaves should never be infused for a long time for several reasons.
The flavor dissipates and the objectionable tannin is more and more
extracted, imparting to the tea astringency and a bitterness, which
are not only disagreeable to the taste but also cause indigestion
and constipation. After the tea is prepared as indicated it may be
taken hot or cold, with or without sugar, with or without cream or
milk. Iced tea, with a little lemon juice added, is a delicious drink
for hot weather. It is cooling besides having a tendency to check
excessive perspiration. Tea has also been found valuable as a wash for
inflammation of the eyes.
In conclusion, I wish to refer the reader to an article in the July
number of the _Cosmopolitan_ on "Tea-drinking in many lands," by Laura
B. Starr, in which are related many interesting customs relative to the
use and preparation of tea.
[Illustration: A. W. MUMFORD, PUBLISHER, CHICAGO.
TOWHEE.
1/2 Life-size.
COPYRIGHT 1899, BY
NATURE STUDY PUB. CO., CHICAGO.]