blocks to the water; along Channel street to Long Bridge. Here we may
take the Bay View cars, ride across the Mission Bay, visit the Rolling
Mills, or keep on through the Deep Cut, over Islais Creek bridge,
through South San Francisco, to Bay View track, whence 'busses carry
us to Hunter's Point and the Dry Dock. Best time, morning, unless some
ship is going into dock on the high tide. Fare in 'bus, twenty-five
cents each.
IV.--WATER FRONT--South of Market.--Walk along East or Stewart St., by
U. S. Marine Hospital, to P. M. S. S. Co.'s ships and docks and C. P.
R. R. Freight piers and depot. Thus far no cars. At foot of Brannan
take cars, ride up that to Third, down Third, by South Park, to
Howard--along Howard to Second, along Second to Market again. Or you
can walk from the water up Second to Market again. Or you can walk
from the water up Second through the cut to Harrison, climb the
bridge-stairs, walk down Harrison to First or Fremont, turn left, and
come back by the Shot Tower, Foundries, and Factories to Market.
V.--WATER FRONT--North of Market.--No cars here. Stroll northerly by
the corners of the different streets, along the heads of the different
piers, among the grain and produce boats, river steamer docks and
ferry slips, around to North Point, with its bonded warehouses, iron
clippers, and sea wall, thence back Sansome to Broadway, whence cars
take you again to the centre.
VI.--SOUTHWESTERN SUBURBS.--From corner west front of Grand Hotel,
take city cars out Mission, by fine new church, new Mint, to
Woodward's Gardens; thence to Sixteenth; up that three blocks,
westerly, to Dolores street, where stands the old Mission Church, the
site of the first permanent settlement of San Francisco; out Dolores;
south two blocks, to Jewish Cemeteries; back by same way to
Sixteenth; down that to Mission Woolen Mills; thence home by Folsom
street or Howard street cars, either of which brings you to Market
street.
VII.--WESTERN SUBURBS AND BEYOND.--From Montgomery up Sutter, by cars,
or up Bush by feet or wheels. Either street carries you westerly to
Laurel Hill, in which elegant monuments and mausoleums merit more than
passing notice; thence east three blocks to Lone Mountain and the
cemeteries grouped about its base, and upon its lower slopes--the Odd
Fellows', west; the Masonic, south, and the Calvary north and east.
Out the Cliff House Road--you'll need horse probably, or can take the
'bus for 25 cents each way--by the Race Track or Driving Park, to the
Cliff House; look at the Seal Rocks, Seals, Ocean and Farallones;
thence south along Pacific Beach to Ocean House, whence in by Ocean
Road or the new Central Road by Lake Peralta and Lake Honda. The old
Ocean Road brings you back through the Mission; the new one, in by
Lone Mountain again.
VIII.--NORTHWESTERN SUBURBS and beyond.--Up Geary, Post or Sutter to
Van Ness Avenue; thence twelve blocks north through Spring Valley, by
cars from Broadway west to Harbor View, Presidio and Fort Point.
Returning from the Presidio, keep towards the Bay; come around by
Black Point, whence, skirting the water-front through five or six
rough blocks, you reach the foot of Mason or Powell street, and find
other cars waiting to bring you home.
The routes above suggested, are by no means exhaustive, but will take
one to or near the most noted points. If the tourist can have the
personal guidance and escort of some well-posted friend, so much the
better. In the absence of such friend, or even to accompany him, we
respectfully submit our little pocket substitute.
EXCURSION ROUTES.
Under this head we suggest different excursions to and through the
most noted localities within a limited radius. We have arranged them
in the order of their neighborhood to each other, so that one may pass
from the end of one to the beginning of the next without the necessity
of returning to San Francisco more than once or twice before
completing them all.
I. The Bay Trip.
We suppose you tired of land travel, with its accompanying jar and
dust, and willing to spend a half day in a smooth-sailing steamer on
the beautiful bay. Go to No. 703 Market street, only nine doors east
of Bancroft's, to the office of Gen. Ord, commanding the Department of
California. He can give you a pass, ordering, the captain of the
McPherson, the lively little Government propeller, which daily makes
the rounds of the military posts on all the chief islands in the
harbor, to take you to any you may wish to visit, or all, if you
desire. No other boat makes these trips. This one goes the rounds
twice a day. Unless particularly fond of high wind, and short, choppy,
sea-sicky waves, you'd better go in the morning. The steamer leaves
Jackson street pier every morning at eight, and every afternoon at
three. It takes you first, to
ALCATRAZ, or Alcatraces, as the Government spells it over the fortress
gate. The first is the singular, and the second the plural, form of a
Spanish word meaning a pelican. The island lies a mile and a quarter
north of San Francisco, and two and one half miles east of the Golden
Gate, whose entrance it commands. It is one third of a mile long, one
tenth of a mile wide, rises a hundred and forty feet above low tide; a
rudely elongated oval in shape, contains about thirty acres, composed
mainly of solid rock; is heavily fortified on all sides and crowned by
a strong fortress on the top. Perfect belts of batteries surround the
island, mounting some of the heaviest guns yet made in America. It is
the key to the fortifications of the harbor.
The island affords no fresh water. All which is used there is carried
thither from the main land or caught in cisterns during the rainy
season. On the highest point stands a lighthouse of the third order,
whose light can be seen, on a clear night, twelve miles at sea,
outside the Golden Gate. The southeast point of the island has a
heavy fog-bell, which strikes four times a minute through all dense
fogs. If you wish to land and examine the fortress and batteries, you
can do so, and stay until the boat returns, usually half or three
quarters of an hour, or remain till its afternoon trip, five or six
hours later. From Alcatraz, the boat goes a mile and a half to
ANGEL ISLAND, which lies three miles north of San Francisco, and is
the largest and most valuable island in the bay. It is a mile and one
third long, three quarters of a mile wide, and seven hundred and
seventy-one feet high. It contains about six hundred acres of
excellent land, watered by natural springs. On the east side are
quarries of blue and brown sand-stone, while good brick-clay is found
elsewhere. Three fixed batteries, mounting large and heavy guns, and
connected by a military road encircling the island, have been built.
The officers' quarters, barracks, and parade ground, are in a shallow,
gently-sloping valley, near the landing on the west side.
Returning, we touch at Alcatraz and thence steam round to
YERBA BUENA, or Goat Island, two miles east of San Francisco, and two
and a half from the Oakland shore, from which the long railroad pier
is heading straight for it, with the evident intention of bridging the
entire distance at an early day. The island contains little over half
a square mile, principally covered with chapparal, which is here a
thicket of low, evergreen oaks, dwarfed by the salt air and the high
winds. The Government also owns and occupies this island--barracks,
shops, and garrison. The name Goat Island was given from the fact that
many vessels coming to this port in early times, from southern ports
where goats were cheap, used to bring them for fresh meat on the
passage. In the event of a short voyage, a few goats survived, and
upon arrival here were turned loose upon this island, as it lay near
the anchorage, and provided a place from which the goats could not
escape. These veteran survivors of the voyage "round the horn,"
presently increased to such numbers as to originate the name "Goat
Island," which has, to a considerable degree, supplanted the earlier
and more significant name Yerba Buena. This latter name, having been
lifted from the city, ought at least to be allowed to fall and rest
upon the island, in perpetuation of those "early days," whose
landmarks are fast failing and fading into forgetfulness.
Now return with the boat to the pier, exchange the pure bay-breeze for
dust-laden city airs, and you have completed your bay trip.
II. The Oakland Trip.
OAKLAND lies seven miles east of San Francisco. At least that is the
distance from centre to centre; between the nearest margins the
measure would be hardly five miles. A dozen times a day the ferry-boat
takes one over; fare, 25 cents. Get out at Broadway street, turn to
your left, walk four or five blocks, notice the comfortable, roomy
appearance of the city. Two blocks up, observe that neat church on the
left, set well back from the street and surrounded by ample grounds
and pleasant gardens. That's Rev. Dr. Mooar's Congregational Church. A
block or two beyond, look up the broad street to the right, and you
see the buildings and grounds now occupied by the State University of
California, pending the erection of ampler accommodations on the
University site at Berkeley, five miles north. Take the horse cars if
you like, and ride out north along the "telegraph road." Noble
residences and beautiful grounds line both sides of the way. A mile
out, that large, new, wooden building, crowning the summit of a
moderate hill, accommodates McClure's Academy, wherein the military
drill reinforces and enlivens the other usual studies of a first-class
academy.
A third of a mile further, upon the same side appears the large and
finely-proportioned Pacific Female College, lately purchased by the
Pacific Theological Seminary.
Still north two miles further, brings us to or in front of the
Deaf, Dumb and Blind Asylum, beautifully located on the top of a
little rise, and commanding a fine view of the Golden Gate, the bay,
San Francisco, and its surroundings. The style of the building is a
modified Gothic. It is built of a fine-grained, bluish granite, from a
neighboring quarry. It has a length of one hundred and ninety-two feet
front, one hundred and forty-eight feet depth, sixty-two feet height
up the three stories and a half to the gable, and one hundred and
forty-five feet to the top of the tower. Within, the school-rooms,
chapel, halls, dormitories, and bath-rooms, are models of convenient
arrangement. Principal, Prof. Wilkinson.
Another mile and we cross a ravine, bear away to the left, and find
ourselves on the grounds of the State University of which only the
Mining and Agricultural College Building has begun to take form. The
site is the finest imaginable: facing the Golden Gate, the bay and its
islands, and the "Golden City" beyond.
Continuing west from the University site, we may go down to the San
Pablo road and return to Oakland by a different route. Approaching the
centre we may note the new City Hall, delight ourselves with glances
down the broad and "tree-ful" streets. Arrived at the Market street
station we take the cars south, cross the San Antonio creek, through
Brooklyn to San Leandro, where we may get out and take another train
to
Hayward's,
Six miles southeasterly from San Leandro. This is a new,
pleasantly-situated and rapidly-growing town, the shipping point for a
large agricultural region around. Here see the grain sheds, run out to
the Brighton cattle market, the largest in the State, after which you
can take stage six miles to
Alvarado,
And there inspect the salt works, but, more especially, the
Beet Sugar Works, the first erected and operated in California, and
regarded as the pioneer of an extensive and valuable industry. From
Alvarado you can keep on, by stage, nine miles to the
WARM SPRINGS, or you can reach these by driving to Niles, or Decoto,
and thence taking the cars of the San Jose road. These springs are
about two miles south of the Old Mission San Jose, in the midst of a
pleasant grove of oak and other trees, near the Agua Caliente (hot
water) creek. The waters contain lime, sulphur, magnesia, and iron, in
various combinations. Summer guests speak highly of the neighboring
hotel.
From the springs return to the railroad, and riding eleven miles,
enter on
IV. The San Jose Trip,
which begins with
San Jose.
The county seat of Santa Clara county; in population the fourth city
of the State, in character of population one of the first, and in
beautiful surroundings the gem city. It has a fine situation, in the
midst of a beautiful valley, and a climate so healthy that many people
affected with lung complaints go thither to live, as a means of cure.
Hundreds from San Francisco and the intermediate cities, go on
excursions to San Jose and vicinity every summer. From whatever
direction we approach San Jose, the first object to meet the eye is
the lofty dome of the
COURT HOUSE. Next to the State Capitol at Sacramento, this is the
finest building in the State. It stands on the west side of First
street, fronting St. James Square. Its architecture is Roman
Corinthian; its dimensions, one hundred feet front, one hundred and
forty feet depth; height, fifty-six feet to cornice; to top of dome,
one hundred and fifteen feet. The building is divided into two lofty
stories, containing the principal court room, sixty-five feet long,
forty-eight feet wide and thirty-eight feet high, with twenty large
and elegant rooms for county officials. The view from the dome is
alone worth going to San Jose to enjoy. Whatever else you may omit, in
and about the city, do _not_ omit this.
THE STATE NORMAL SCHOOL BUILDING. Next to the Court House, this is the
chief object of interest. It occupies the centre of Washington Square,
faces west; architecture, Corinthian; length, two hundred and
eighty-four feet; depth, one hundred and sixty feet; and height to top
of cornice, seventy feet; to top of tower, one hundred and fifty-two
feet; number of stories, four, including basement and mansard roof.
The Normal Hall is ninety-one feet long, sixty-six feet wide, and
forty feet high, accommodating nine hundred.
AUZERAIS HOUSE. Among the finest buildings in the city, and the best
hotel south of San Francisco, is the Auzerais House. For first-class
hotel accommodations in all variety, for cordial welcome and courteous
service, stop here, and you will not be disappointed; especially when
restfully reclining in the charming park and garden attached to the
house. Rates, usual first-class; from $3.00 single day, to $20.00, or
even $15.00, a week, with lower rates for longer times.
NEW YORK EXCHANGE HOTEL. Corner of First and St. John's streets,
ranking next to the Auzerais, affords excellent rooms, with good board
and attentive service, for from $2.00 a day to $12.00 a week.
If you want to ride through the surrounding valley, as you certainly
will, after looking from the court-house dome, go to Church & Wallace,
No. 386 First street, who will have a capital team waiting for you at
the station if you merely drop them a slight hint by telegraph.
Besides the public buildings already named, fine churches, school
buildings, business blocks, private residences and beautiful gardens
well repay a stroll through this queen city of a lovely valley.
New Almaden.
From San Jose, take one of Church & Wallace's teams, and drive
thirteen miles southerly to the celebrated
Quicksilver Mine, named for the famous old Almaden mine, in Spain,
with the syllable, "new," prefixed by way of distinction. This mine is
over five hundred feet deep, and employs nearly five hundred men. For
permission to enter, apply to J. B. Randol, Esq., manager, residing at
New Almaden. If you prefer to go out by public conveyance, a stage
will take you over any afternoon at 2.30 for $1.50.
Drive back to San Jose: thence, by steam car, horse car or private
team, go over three miles north to
Santa Clara,
A pleasant, quiet town, chiefly noted for the Santa Clara College
(Jesuit), which occupies the site of the old mission, which was really
the germ of the town; and the University of the Pacific (Methodist).
Saratoga,
_Springs_, of course, ten miles southwest of San Jose, from which
daily stage carries one over for $1.50. These springs are called the
Congress Springs, from the resemblance of their water to that of the
original and famous springs of that name at the New York Saratoga.
They are three shallow springs, excavated in the sandstone, and
tasting very much alike. The water contains sulphates and carbonates
of soda, iron and lime, with traces of magnesia. It is very refreshing
and healthful; so much so that the guests at the neighboring hotel
annually consume increasing quantities, besides the thousand bottles
sent away daily.
Thence back to San Jose, and, after a good night's rest, set forth on
tour
V. Gilroy, and Points South,
and the places for which it is the starting point.
This brisk and lively, neat and thriving town, we beg its pardon,
_city_, is thirty-one miles southeast of San Jose, from which one
reaches it by the Southern Pacific Railroad for a fare of $2.00. This
city is the present terminus of the railroad, and the consequent
centre from which radiate the various stage routes to the "lower
country." On every hand it presents evidences of business prosperity
and rapid growth. Population, over two thousand.
Hot Spring--Fourteen miles northeast of Gilroy, in a small, rocky
ravine opening into Coyote Canyon, is this noted spring. Its water
contains iron, soda, magnesia, sulphur, and baryta, and has a pungent
but not unpleasant taste. Throughout the year it preserves a uniform
temperature of about one hundred and ten degrees. Within a rod of the
hot spring are a dozen or more large springs of pure, cold water. The
curative properties of the water, added to the romantic character of
the surrounding scenery, have caused the erection of a fine hotel,
reached by regular stages, over a good road, from Gilroy.
Some twelve miles southwest of Gilroy, one may find, in the
Pajaro Valley,
as quiet and beautiful an agricultural nook as the State affords. For
a quiet retreat in some hospitable farmhouse, with a good chance for
small game, for a day or two, this snug valley will decidedly "fill
the bill." Its black soil, famous potatoes, and charming little branch
canyons will dispose a farmer, or a hunter, or a painter to stay as
long as possible. When you have rusticated as long as you can in the
romantic vicinity of Gilroy, and are ready, though unwilling, to go,
you can return by the way you came, if you like; but, if time permits,
and you wish to see one of the pleasantest sections of the State, you
will take stage through Hollister and
San Juan,
A quiet little town, old and quaint, and chiefly notable for its early
mission, founded in 1797, to
Monterey,
The first capital of California, and noted, also, as the place where
the American flag was first raised in California, by Com. Sloat, July
7th, 1846. Here one may see plenty of the old adobe houses, with tiled
roofs, built in the primitive Mexican style. From Monterey, you may
come up the coast, by water, or go back to San Juan, and thence take
stage to Watsonville, near the seaward end of the beautiful Pajaro
Valley, and come through to
VI. Santa Cruz, and Up the Coast.
Beyond comparison the most delightful among the smaller towns of the
State. In fact it is the occidental Newport, the Pacific Nahant, where
languid fashion and exhausted business most do congregate. Here land
and water meet, present the best beauty of each, and combine to
proffer new ones impossible to either alone. Rides, rambles and
drives, swims and sails, picnics and chowder-parties, excellent hotel
accommodations, and plenty of good company, furnish the material for
as varied enjoyment, and as much of it, as any one of ordinary
constitution can stand. The way of approach which we have mentioned,
is comparatively rare. The most noted route is from Santa Clara by
daily stage, thirty miles; fare, $3.20.
When you have sufficiently enjoyed Santa Cruz and its beautiful
surroundings, you may take the stage any Monday, Wednesday or Friday
morning, at eight o'clock, for a
Ride Up the Coast.
Eight miles north we pass Laguna Creek, noted for good fishing, while
its vicinity proffers fine shooting, both of which attractions have
combined to make it a favorite camping-ground for picnic parties.
Nearly three miles further, William's Landing gives you the first
chance to witness "hawser-shipping", an ingenious device for getting
produce, or any form of merchandise, into a boat, or upon the deck of
a vessel when the surf is too rough to permit the landing of a boat or
the continuance of a pier. Thus art makes a "port" for loading or
discharging where nature forbids the construction of the ordinary
facilities.
Three and a half miles brings us to Davenport's Landing, an open
roadstead, famous for the longest pier running out into the open
ocean, of any place on the Pacific Coast.
Thence two miles, to the beautiful laurel groves and camping-grounds
of Scott's Creek. Nearly one hundred and fifty deer have been killed
in this neighborhood in one season.
Four miles more, and Frogtown welcomes us. Here David Post proves
himself posted in the providing of "good square" meals; in fact, he's
just the David who can slay the Goliath of hunger, though, instead of
hitting one in the middle of the forehead, he commonly aims about an
inch below the nose.
Waddell's Wharf is three miles further. Thence, by Steel's Ranch and
White House Ranch to
Pigeon Point.
On the coast, about ten miles from Frogtown, thirty-one from Santa
Cruz, and seven from Pescadero. This is important to all the
neighboring inhabitants, because it is their shipping point, where one
may witness the "hawser-pier" in its glory; and interesting to the
tourist, because it is a whaling station, and the only one on the
coast which he will be likely to see. A colony of Portuguese do the
whaling. They go out in large open boats, six men to a boat, and shoot
the harpoon into the whale from the harpoon-gun. One may sometimes
see a dozen or more whales at once, rolling and spouting, or
"blowing," in the offing.
Seven miles further, and our journey ends, or, at least, this
particular stage-route ends in
Pescadero.
Ho for Pescadero and the famous Pebble Beach! By rail from San
Francisco to San Mateo, twenty miles south, thence by Troy coaches
over a new toll road, to Pescadero, thirty miles. Total distance,
fifty miles. Time: to San Mateo, one hour, thence to Pescadero, four
and a half hours. Fare: to San Mateo, $1.00, thence to Pescadero,
$2.85.
Leaving San Mateo, the road winds through beautiful scenery to the
summit of the Santa Cruz mountains, which divide the waters of the Bay
from those of the ocean. The summit is eight miles from San Mateo and
affords a view of great extent, embracing the long coast line on the
west, white with the surf of breakers, and the broad expanse of the
Bay on the east, with the Diablo range of mountains bounding the
horizon.
From the summit, it is four miles to the old-fashioned pueblo of
Spanishtown, nestled in a little dell opening out on Half-Moon Bay.
Thence four miles to Purissima, another coast town, near which an
isolated, rounded peak, called Ball Knob, rises conspicuously above
the surrounding hills. From Purissima, a drive of twelve miles along,
or in sight of, the beach, brings us to our destination.
Pescadero, is the Spanish for fisherman, from _pescado_, fish. The
town is situated near the mouth of Pescadero creek, so named,
probably, from the abundance of trout which swarm in its pools and
eddys. The village is about a mile from the beach, in a sheltered
depression, affording a charming and secluded retreat for pleasure
seekers and invalids. The tourist will find good hotel and stabling
accommodations, among the best of which are the Lincoln hotel and
stables, under the charge of Capt. Kinsey.
Prominent among the objects of interest around Pescadero, is the
celebrated Pebble Beach, three miles south. Here may be seen ladies,
gentlemen, and children, on a warm summer day, down on their hands and
knees, searching for curious and pretty little pebbles of every hue
and shape. The supply is never exhausted, for every storm casts up a
new store of treasures. Pebbles of sufficient beauty and value to be
set in brooches and rings, have been discovered here.