its seaward end. Approaching the city by this route, one reaches a
greater height than by the Cliff House road, and when about two miles
from the city, enjoys a beautiful view of the southern and western
city, the shipping, the bay, the opposite shore, the trailing cities
and towns, whose houses gleam between the trees of Contra Costa and
Alameda counties, with their grassy foot-hills, the whole view backed
and bounded by old Mt. Diablo beyond. Returning by this road, one
enters the city suburbs upon the southwest by Seventeenth, or Corbett
street, passes directly by the Mission with the famous old church
which named it, and pursues his way back to the centre by Market,
Mission, Howard or Folsom streets. Between the Cliff House and Ocean
House roads, and nearer the latter, private enterprise has recently
constructed a third track, known as the Central Ocean Drive.
BAY VIEW ROAD.--Drive from Market street along Third to the Long
Bridge, cross that to the Potrero, keep straight on through the deep
cut, over the Islais bridge, thence through South San Francisco, up a
little rise, from whose summit you look down into a little valley or
green bay of vegetable gardens, between which and the water stands the
Bay View House, on one side of the Bay View race track. From several
points as you drive out, you will readily understand why they used the
phrase "Bay View" so frequently in naming localities hereabout. If you
wish to return by another way, drive half a mile beyond the track,
where your way runs into the older road of early times. If you have
time, drive on to the brow of the hill and look down into Visitacion
Valley; if not, at the acute angle where the roads become one, you
turn sharply back, and after two miles of slightly uneven road, enter
the city between the eastern edge of the Mission flats and the western
foot of the Potrero hills.
The best time for all these drives, as already said concerning the
promenades, is morning, the earlier the better. Besides the greater
purity and freshness of the air, everywhere accompanying the morning
hours, one then escapes the wind and dust which, on nearly every
afternoon, constitute the chief drawback from the full enjoyment of
outdoor pleasure during those hours.
Libraries.
In these windy and dusty afternoons, when nature seems to frown, art
and literature invite you within, and proffer quiet retreats with the
best of company--good books. For a city as young and as distinctively
absorbed in business, San Francisco has amply provided for the
gratification of scientific research or literary taste. The chief
libraries are the Mercantile, the Mechanics' Institute, the Odd
Fellows', the Pioneers', and the Y. M. C. A., each of which is located
in the building of the same name, presently to be noticed. Besides
these, at the What Cheer House, and at Woodward's Gardens, one finds
two or three thousand well selected standard volumes, free to guests
and visitors.
Public Buildings.
FEDERAL.
POST-OFFICE.--The first of these to every tourist is, naturally, the
Government building through which his letters come and go. This is a
moderately-sized two-story building of stuccoed brick, running
parallel with the west side of Battery street, between Washington and
Jackson. One may enter from any street of the three. The ladies'
entrance, which is also common, is from Washington street. The
principal business entrance is on the west front of the building,
through a cross street entered at either end from Washington or
Jackson. The office opens daily at 8 A.M., and closes at 6:30 P.M.,
except Sundays, when its only open hour is from 9 to 10 A.M. The great
overland mail for New York, by the way of Salt Lake and Omaha, closes
every week day at 7:30 A.M., and on Saturdays at 3 P.M., N. B. Stone,
P. M.
THE CUSTOM HOUSE is simply the upper floor of the Post-office
building. Entrance on Battery, near Washington. Timothy G. Phelps,
Collector.
U. S. BRANCH MINT.--The old building still occupied, and likely to be
for at least a year, stands on the north side of Commercial, near
Montgomery. Office hours from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. Visitors received daily
from 9 to 12. O. H. La Grange, Superintendent.
THE NEW MINT, or what is to be that building, stands on the northwest
corner of Fifth and Mission streets. Its ground dimensions are 221-1/2
feet on Fifth, by 166-1/2 feet on Mission street. The basement is already
built of California granite. Above the basement, which is 13-3/4 feet
high, the walls are built of blue-gray freestone, from Newcastle
Island in the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver's Island and the
mainland of British Columbia. Thus, Uncle Sam is building his new Mint
of British stone. Two stories of 18-1/2 feet each will surmount the high
basement. The lower of these is now nearly completed. From the
pavement to the crown of the roof will be 70 feet. Two chimneys will
tower to the height of 150 feet.
THE U. S. MARINE HOSPITAL stands at the northeast corner of Harrison
and Main streets, upon the northeast slope of Rincon Hill. This is the
old building. The hospital also occupies the former buildings of the
Deaf and Dumb Asylum, on the southeast corner of Mission and Fifteenth
streets.
CITY AND COUNTY BUILDINGS.
OLD CITY HALL.--This famous old brick and stucco, two-story,
earthquake-cracked, and iron-braced structure, with the adjoining Hall
of Records, stretches along the east side of Kearny street from
Merchant to Washington, and extends nearly a third of the block down
each of those streets. The police-offices and lock-ups occupy the
basement, while the usual District Court rooms, with Judges' Chambers
and municipal offices, Supervisors' and Board of Education rooms, fill
the upper floors, and clamor for more room.
THE NEW CITY HALL thus far exists only on paper. The Commissioners
have chosen an elaborate plan for a costly edifice, which will far
surpass anything on the coast in architectural beauty; but the
execution of that plan has hardly yet completed the excavation for the
foundation walls. Hence it is yet too early to tantalize the tourist
with descriptions of a beautiful building not yet visible, except in
the architect's drawing, or the lithographic copies. If any tourist is
curious to see the _site_, he may find it by going out Market street
till he reaches what was known as Yerba Buena Park, corner of Market
and Seventh streets. The City Hall Commissioners adopted the plans and
specifications of Mr. Augustus Laver, of New York, and elected him
architect; but, at the present rate of progress, it is hardly probable
that less than two or three years will witness the completion of the
urgently-needed and magnificently-designed new City Hall.
JAIL.--On the north side of Broadway, between Dupont and Kearny, one
desirous of inspecting our penal institutions may find ample
opportunity to study the physiognomy of that class which inhabits
them, and learn the crimes which preponderate in the Pacific
metropolis. Sheriff, P. J. White.
ALMSHOUSE.--This asylum occupies one of the healthiest locations in
the State, near the Ocean House, or San Miguel road, about four and
one quarter miles southwest of the City Hall. M. J. Keating,
Superintendent.
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL.--This finely-constructed, conveniently-arranged and
well-managed reform school, stands on the western slope of the
peninsula hills, about seven miles southwest of the city. Like the
Almshouse it has as healthful a location as can be found in the State.
It receives only boys, who are regularly taught by competent teachers,
and employed in various indoor occupations or out-door work. Present
number of inmates, two hundred and twelve. The order and discipline of
this school well repay a visit. Jno. C. Pelton, Superintendent.
ENGINE HOUSES.--In early days, before the establishment of homes, the
pioneer firemen seemed to love their machine very much as the sailor
loves his ship. They built elegant and costly engine houses, which
became to many of them the only homes they ever knew. Since the
introduction of the improved steam fire engines, and the organization
of the paid fire department, the glory of the old volunteer
organizations has well nigh departed. But their houses yet remain,
some of them converted to other uses, while others still retain much
of their earlier attractiveness.
Eight first-class steamers, of the Amoskeag make, weighing from three
to four tons each, throwing four hundred gallons a minute, each
costing from four to five thousand dollars in gold coin, and manned by
twelve men, make up the present paid fire department. At a public
trial a week since, New York and Philadelphia witnesses voluntarily
and unanimously testified that they had never seen machines reach the
spot as soon and get a stream upon the flames as quickly, as did the
machines of our fire department. This fact may conduce to the sense of
security with which the eastern tourist lies down to sleep in his
strange bed. For the benefit of any extra nervous gentleman, we may
add the universal rule of conduct in regard to midnight alarms of fire
among us, is this: When waked by a fire-alarm, place your hand against
the nearest wall. If it feels cold, lie still; if moderately warm,
order a different room at once; if positively _hot_, leave for another
hotel immediately.
CORPORATION AND SOCIETY BUILDINGS.
THE PIONEER'S BUILDING.--A finely proportioned building on the corner
of Gold and Montgomery streets, above Jackson. This building is not as
noteworthy as the society which built and chiefly occupies it. The
famous "Society of California Pioneers" was formed in August, 1850.
Its constitution declares its object to be:
"To cultivate the social virtues of its members;
"To collect and preserve information connected with the early
settlement of the country; and
"To perpetuate the memory of those whose sagacity, energy and love of
independence induced them to settle in the wilderness and become the
germs of a new State."
It includes three classes: 1st. Native Californians; foreigners living
in California before the American conquest; and citizens of the United
States who became actual residents here before January 1st, 1849--with
the male descendants of these.
2d. Citizens of the United States who became actual residents of
California before January 1st, 1850, and their male descendants.
3d. Honorary members admitted according to the by-laws. The society
has enrolled over 1,300 members. Its historical library and museum
well repay a visit. Charles D. Carter, President.
MERCHANT'S EXCHANGE.--This building, the commercial headquarters of
the mercantile army of the Pacific, stands on the south side of
California street, between Montgomery and Sansome. It ranks among the
largest and finest architectural ornaments of the city.
BANK OF CALIFORNIA.--Northwest corner of California and Sansome. This
elegant stone structure is not remarkable for size; but for broad and
deep foundations, slow and strong construction, harmonious
proportions, convenient arrangements and admirable finish within and
without, it ranks among the finest and most costly business buildings
in the Union. President, D. O. Mills. Cashier, William C. Ralston.
MERCANTILE LIBRARY BUILDING.--North side of Bush street, between
Montgomery and Sansome. This is the building for which the great
lottery paid. It presents a noble front, a finely finished interior,
with library room containing over 30,000 volumes, reading room,
magazine room, reference room, chess room, with a large ladies' room
of remarkably costly and tasteful furnishing. The hall in the
basement, has already been noticed. Ogden Hoffman, President; Alfred
Stebbins, Librarian.
MECHANICS' INSTITUTE BUILDING.--South side of Post street, just below
Kearny. A well-proportioned, substantially built, sensible-looking
building, and so far truthfully indicative of the healthful prosperity
of the excellent organization which owns and occupies it. A library of
nearly 20,000 volumes, including many rare and costly scientific
works, a large and well-stocked reading room, a sort of museum,
including mineralogical cabinets, mechanical models, scientific
apparatus and works of art, with a popular business college, occupy
this valuable building. The commodious hall upon the lower floor, has
been previously described.
MECHANICS' PAVILION.--Union Square, between Geary and Post streets on
the south and north, and Stockton and Powell streets on the east and
west. One of the largest, if not the largest, wooden buildings now
standing in America, covering two and one half acres of ground;
originally erected by the Mechanics' Institute Association, for the
accommodation of their biennial fairs, and found almost indispensably
convenient for all grander gatherings; it has since been retained, and
successively occupied by fairs, grand masquerade balls, velocipede
schools and skating rinks. The most notable event occurring under its
mammoth roof was the Grand Musical Festival or Gift Concert, in aid of
the Mercantile Library Association, given under the lead of Madame
Camilla Urso. After the approaching Mechanics' Fair, to be held this
summer, the building is to be removed.
MASONIC TEMPLE.--Upon the west side of Montgomery, at the corner of
Post; of peculiar and attractive architecture, imposing proportions
and elegant finish, it justly ranks among the most prominent buildings
of the city.
ODD FELLOWS' HALL.--Montgomery street, between Pine and California.
Not particularly imposing from without, but attractive from the unity,
strength and benificence of the Order which it represents. Within are
a library of nearly 20,000 standard and popular volumes, a
well-supplied reading-room, and a well-managed savings' bank.
Y. M. C. A.--This quartette of initials has now become so well known
throughout the larger cities of the Union, that the visitor in any
large city is disappointed if he does not find the local habitation of
this fast-spreading bond of unity among all good men. Here, upon
Sutter street, just above Kearny, he will be agreeably disappointed
to discover a large, new, stone-front building, unique in design, and
most pleasing in its general effect. Within are library,
reading-rooms, hall, gymnasium, and several convenient lodging-rooms.
Chas. Goodall, President; H. L. Chamberlain, Librarian.
Business Buildings and Blocks.
ALTA CALIFORNIA BUILDING--On the south side of California street,
between Montgomery and Kearny. Its comparatively great height, as
related to its width, give it a somewhat monumental appearance, not
inappropriate, however, when we remember that the whole tasteful
structure stands as the monument of the enterprise, energy,
perseverance and success of the oldest and largest paper published in
the State. Fred. MacCrellish & Co., proprietors.
BANCROFT'S--South side of Market street, between Third and Fourth. Few
business buildings upon the continent combine the colossal proportions
with the graceful details of this mammoth house of the oldest and
largest publishing firm upon the coast.
DONOHOE, KELLY & CO.'S BUILDING--Upon the southeast corner of
Montgomery and Sacramento streets, deserves mention among the finest
business buildings.
HARPENDING'S BLOCK--On the south side of Market street, between First
and Second; the longest and loftiest business front presented by any
single business block in the city.
MURPHY, GRANT & CO'S. BUILDING--Northeast corner of Bush and Sansome.
A large and handsome building, as strong as iron, stone and brick can
make it.
TOBIN, DIXON & DAVISSON'S BUILDING--Northwest corner of Sansome and
Sutter, can hardly be omitted from the inspection of our finest
business houses.
TREADWELL'S AGRICULTURAL WAREHOUSE--South side of Market street,
opposite Front. Not lofty, but broad; not imposing, but extensive.
TUCKER'S--Northwest corner of Montgomery and Sutter. Lofty,
finely-proportioned, monumental, and substantial; surmounted by a
clock-tower, which has become one of the landmarks of the city. The
main salesroom within is beautifully frescoed and fitted throughout
with extreme elegance and at great cost.
THE WHITE HOUSE--Corner of Kearny and Post streets. An elegant new
iron and brick structure, light, airy and ornamental in its general
effect. Receives its name from its color, which has hitherto been an
uncommon one in this city, but is daily becoming less so. Occupied
chiefly by the leading dry goods firm of J. W. Davidson & Co.
WELLS, FARGO & CO'S. BUILDING--Corner of California and Montgomery
streets. Who does not know it? Solid granite blocks, dressed in
China, brought hither in ships, and piled in stern simplicity upon
that central corner to outstand all earthquake shocks, and survive all
business wrecks. A pioneer building which has already become far too
small for its immense business, but ought never to be taken down until
the whole city goes with it.
Manufactories.
KIMBALL CAR AND CARRIAGE FACTORY.--Corner of Bryant and Fourth
streets. Eastern visitors call this the largest establishment of the
kind in America. In immense extent, convenient arrangement, and
comprehensiveness of scope, it can hardly be surpassed. Its latest
triumph is the construction of a magnificent Palace Car, built wholly
of California woods, undisguised by paint, carving, gilding, or
varnish--the most complete and superb palace on wheels ever built.
Thirty-five different woods enter into its construction, displaying a
variety of structure and a range of harmonious tints hardly imaginable
by those who have seen only the poor imitations of feeble art. The car
is a triumph of taste and skill, and is worth a half-day's time of any
tourist simply to study and enjoy it. It has been proposed that the
merchants of this city buy it, and present it to the President of the
United States--to _the office_, not the _incumbent_--to be kept at
Washington, and used as the official car for all Presidential tours.
A better idea could hardly be suggested. May the motion prevail!
THE PACIFIC ROLLING MILLS stand upon the point of the Potrero. They
include all the massive machinery of their ponderous business, and
turn out heavy castings, forgings, and railroad iron by hundreds of
tons daily.
THE MISSION WOOLEN MILLS--Folsom street, corner of Sixteenth. Here are
made those wonderful blankets of such marvelous fineness and
thickness, which have attracted so much attention, and received even
the World's Fair premium abroad.
Foundries and Iron Works.
UNION IRON WORKS.--The oldest and largest in California, employing
three hundred and thirty men, and turning out the heaviest and most
perfect mining and railroad machinery, locomotives, etc. Located on
the northeast corner of Mission and First streets. H. J. Booth & Co.
RISDON IRON AND LOCOMOTIVE WORKS, southeast corner of Howard and Beale
streets. Has all the latest mechanical improvements of the business.
Can turn out a shaft forty-eight feet long, and weighing thirty tons.
It employs two hundred and seventy-five hands. John N. Risdon,
president.
The Fulton, Miners', and Pacific Foundries, with the Etna and Vulcan
Iron Works, are the other leading ones of the coast.
Shot Tower and Lead Works.
Corner of Howard and First streets. The pioneer and, thus far, the
only works upon the coast. The tower is one of the most prominent and
sightly objects visible in all the water approaches to the city.
Sugar Refineries.
The city has four: The San Francisco and Pacific, Bay, California, and
Golden Gate, turning out twenty thousand tons of sugar annually.
Ship Yards.
At North Beach and at the Potrero are the principal yards. They build
mainly river steamers or ferry boats, or smaller ocean craft, rarely
constructing anything above three hundred tons. For larger craft it is
cheaper to go north, where immense forests of the finest ship-timber
run clear down to the ocean beach, and stand asking to be built into
ships.
Glass Works.
Two: one in the city, on the south side of Townsend, between Third and
Fourth; and the other, the Pacific Glass works, on the Potrero, at the
corner of Iowa and Mariposa streets. These confine their works chiefly
to bottles, telegraph caps, etc.
Churches.
BAPTIST.--This prominent denomination has six church buildings in the
city. The First Baptist Church claims special space from the fact that
it was the first Protestant house of worship dedicated in California.
This was in August, 1849. The present building of stuccoed brick,
occupies the original site of the first small, wooden pioneer
church--on the north side of Washington street, between Stockton and
Dupont. Rev. A. R. Medbury, Pastor.
CONGREGATIONAL.--This denomination has the honor of having furnished
the first settled Protestant chaplain in San Francisco, Rev. T. Dwight
Hunt. He held the rare position of "Citizens' Chaplain," Nov. 1st,
1848, conducting Divine worship every Sunday in the "Public
Institute," (the school-house) on Portsmouth Square--the Plaza. The
citizens unitedly invited him from Honolulu, and paid him $2,500 a
year. The denomination has four church buildings--named by their order
of erection. The First Congregational Church is on the southwest
corner of California and Dupont streets. The pastor is Rev. Dr. Stone,
formerly of the Park street church, Boston.
EPISCOPAL.--This denomination has five church buildings, of which
Grace Church, corner of California and Stockton streets, is the oldest
and largest. The building is 135 feet long, 62 feet wide and 66 feet
high. Its great size and sightly location make it one of the prominent
buildings in any general view of the city. Rev. James S. Bush,
Rector. The four other Episcopal church buildings are--Trinity, St.
John's, Church of the Advent, and St. Luke's.
HEBREW.--Synagogue of the Congregation Emanu-el, Sutter street,
between Stockton and Powell. Of the five Jewish congregations, this
has "The Synagogue" par excellence--the one always meant when one
speaks of "The Jewish Synagogue." It is an elegant and costly
structure, built of brick, not yet stuccoed, supporting two prominent
towers, and finished within in most appropriate and artistic style.
Total cost, including lot, $185,000, gold coin.
METHODIST.--This popular, powerful and rapidly growing denomination
has already erected eleven church buildings in San Francisco--more
than any other Protestant Church, except the Presbyterians. Its newest
and most elegant church is the First Methodist Episcopal Church, on
the west side of Powell, between Washington and Jackson. This is one
of the most elegant and really artistic churches; within and without,
any where to be found. Rev. Dr. Cox, Pastor.
HOWARD STREET M. E. CHURCH.--South side of Howard, between Second and
Third. This is the most substantial and valuable building owned by the
denomination. Value, including lot and parsonage, $100,000. Its style
is medieval gothic. Pastor, Rev. L. Walker.
PRESBYTERIAN.--This recently united denomination, no longer old and
new school, has also eleven church buildings; of these the two most
noted are the Calvary Presbyterian Church, corner of Geary and Powell
streets. This church is as capacious and comfortable, even luxurious
within, as the most fastidious could desire. Its organ is the largest
and finest on the coast. Rev. J. Hemphill, Pastor.
Howard Presbyterian Church, Mission street, near Third; lately, Rev.
Dr. Scudder's. This building, with a plain and unpretentious exterior,
has greater seating capacity than any other Protestant church in the
city. It is of recent construction and very convenient internal
arrangements. Temporary pastor, Rev. J. K. Kendall.
First Presbyterian Church--On the west side of Stockton, between
Washington and Clay. This gothic building is one of the largest and
finest--but its chief claim to notice here, rests upon the fact that
the church which built it, organized May 20th, 1849, under the
direction of the Rev. Albert Williams, was the first Protestant church
organized in San Francisco.
ROMAN CATHOLIC.--St. Patrick's Church, on the north side of Mission,
between Third and Fourth streets. Although so new that it is not yet
finished, this church is set first, because it is the largest in the
State, being one hundred and sixty feet long by eighty feet wide. Its
spire is the loftiest and most beautifully proportioned in the city,
height 240 feet. Rev. Peter J. Grey, Pastor.