which stretches so peacefully away under the sunset. For northern
gate-post you have Lime Point; and thence the vision rests on high
hills packed in behind, and gradually lifting the gaze to Mount
Tamalpais, beyond whose sharply-cut summit, nothing of note attracts
the sight. Between us and Tamalpais, four miles nearer and half a mile
lower, close at the water's edge, we have the small but beautifully
situated town of Saucelito, with its sheltered picnic grounds and
tranquil bay. Beyond the Saucelito bay you can almost see through
Raccoon Strait, and discover that the higher land nearer the boat is
not a point, but an island. Its name is Angel Island. It is the
largest and most valuable island in the bay. The Government owns it
and occupies its southwestern side with barracks, garrison and parade
grounds. Several batteries dot the shore at different points, and a
military road around the island, connects them with the garrison.
This other small island of solid rock, crowned with a heavy fortress
and girt with forts and batteries, is Alcatraz, the Pacific Gibraltar.
Instead of coming by way of Vallejo, the passenger from Sacramento may
come by rail through Stockton, forty-eight miles; thence by rail to
Oakland, eighty-six miles; and thence by boat to San Francisco, four
miles; making a total distance of one hundred and thirty-eight miles,
all rail except the last four. Through fare, $2.50.
By this route you approach the city on the east, and have only to
change the point of sight from northeast to east, and remember that
Goat Island will be seen close by on the right hand, that is, north of
the boat, to make the description of the approach from Vallejo almost
equally accurate and easily adaptable for the approach from Oakland,
which is the direction from which the great majority approach.
Those who may prefer can have their choice of a third way from
Sacramento, and a second from Stockton; that is by steamer, usually
leaving each of those cities at noon, and due in San Francisco in
eight hours. From Sacramento by water the distance is one hundred and
twenty-five miles, and the fare, $1.50; from Stockton, one hundred and
twenty miles, fare, $1.50; dinner on board, $1.00; staterooms, $2.00,
single berths, $1.00. These boats reach San Francisco so early one
seldom needs a stateroom, except in case of illness, or a strong
desire for seclusion. Both lines of steamers land at the same pier, at
the foot of Broadway, from ten to twelve blocks from the leading
first-class hotels.
The only important route of approaching San Francisco, and riding into
the city by land, lies on the south, coming from Gilroy, San Jose,
Santa Clara, Redwood City, and intermediate places, in the cars of the
Southern Pacific railroad. Coming in by this route, one traverses the
fertile plains of the Santa Clara Valley, and skirts the foot-hills
lying along the western base of the almost mountains, which form the
divide between the bay slope and the ocean slope of the broad
peninsula. Near Redwood City, and for the succeeding fifteen miles,
the track runs between fresh water fields on the west and salt water
marsh upon the east. From the Twelve-Mile Farm in, we strike nearer
the centre of the constantly narrowing peninsula, and near San Miguel
catch the first glimpse of the broad Pacific. The large building just
west of the track is the Industrial School, our California House of
Reformation. The southern suburbs of the city, through which we
enter, present nothing remarkable beyond the usual medley of old
shanties, broad vegetable gardens, pleasant, home-like cottages, and
here and there the more pretentious suburban residence, increasing in
number as we come nearer the centre.
We come in by Valencia street, and reach the station upon Market, just
east of its junction with Valencia.
Ocean Approach.
Besides the approaches already mentioned, one may come in from Panama,
Mexico, Oregon, the Sandwich Islands, Australia, Japan or China. From
whichever he may come, for the last ten miles before reaching the
dock, his track will be the same. A few miles west of Fort Point, all
these various ocean routes converge into one, enter San Francisco Bay
by the Golden Gate, and bear away southward until they intersect, and
for a short distance coincide with, the approach from Vallejo, already
briefly described.
Conveyances.
HACKS.--Approaching the wharf or the railroad station, you encounter
the usual jargon of hotel and baggage runners, each shouting his
hotel, hack or coach, as if strength of lungs was his chief stock in
trade. It is but simple justice to San Francisco hackmen, however, to
say that a more obliging, prompt, and courteous set, can hardly be
found in any American city of equal size. That travelers may exactly
understand for themselves the law regulating hacks and coaches, we
quote order No. 718, of the Board of Supervisors of the city and
county of San Francisco:
Section 7. "For a hackney carriage drawn by more than one horse, for
one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.50, and for _more_ than one
person, not exceeding one mile, $2.50; and for each additional mile,
for _each_ passenger, 50 cents. For a hackney carriage drawn by one
horse, for one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.00; for more than
one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.50; for each passenger, for
each additional mile, 25 cents."
Sec. 8. "From any landing of any steamboat, to any point east of the
west line of Larkin street, and north of the south line of Brannan
street, and east of Third street, shall, in all cases, be estimated
not to exceed one mile."
In forty-nine cases out of fifty, no newly-arrived gentleman or lady
will have any personal need to know the law; the foregoing is written
mainly for the fiftieth. Bear in mind that these rates, like all fares
and charges in the Golden State, are payable in gold or its equivalent
coin; also, that they are the _highest_. Hackmen often carry for less.
COACHES.--Besides the hacks, one may find hotel coaches, which carry
free to the hotel for which they run, or charge fifty cents for each
passenger within the limits above specified.
CARS.--The red cars of the City Front line pass the head of the dock
every five minutes. These carry one to the very door of the
"Cosmopolitan," and "Occidental" Hotels, within one block of the "Lick
House," and two blocks of the "Grand Hotel." Directly across the
street from the pier of the Sacramento and Stockton steamers, half a
block from the landing for passengers by rail, and one block from the
landing of those coming by Vallejo, the green cars of the Sutter
street line carry one directly by the "Cosmopolitan," the "Lick
House," and the "Occidental," and within half a block of the "Grand."
On both these lines the rate is ten cents coin for a single fare, or
twenty-five cents for a coupon ticket good for four rides.
WAGONS.--At or near any landing, one can always find numbered express
wagons, waiting to carry baggage for from 50 cents to $1.00, according
to bulk, weight, or distance.
PORTERS.--Black, white and yellow, will serve you for "two bits," that
is 25 cents, for carrying any reasonable package within reasonable
distance. It is well, however, to keep your eye on porter and package.
BAGGAGE AND PACKAGE EXPRESSES.--Half an hour or more before reaching
the city, either by car or boat, agents of the above companies will
take your checks and your money, give you a receipt for both, and
deliver your baggage, for 25 cents for each ordinary-sized trunk or
valise, at any place within the single-fare limits already given.
These are reliable and responsible companies, whose agents none need
fear to trust. They deliver baggage promptly and in as good condition
as received.
Hotels.
The foreign tourist can witness to the great lack of really fine
hotels abroad. All England hardly furnishes a single hotel to rank
with the best of our second-class hotels in America. Outside of
Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and Cincinnati,
few, even of the northern cities, present any notable hotel
attractions to the temporary guest. New Orleans has a single good
hotel, but hardly one of the other southern cities has yet outgrown
the old-fashioned "tavern."
In respect to these--in good hotels--by the immediate and unanimous
verdict of every tourist, San Francisco stands preeminent. Nowhere on
the continent can the traveler find beds, tables and rooms superior to
those of the "Grand," the "Occidental," the "Cosmopolitan," and the
"Lick House," and in no large city of America will he find as
reasonable charges, considering the amount and quality of
accommodation and the style of service rendered.
The usual standard rate at the four leading first-class houses, is
$3.00 a day, for board and room. At the "Brooklyn," "Russ," and
"American Exchange," the rates are $2.00 to $2.50 a day, for good
rooms and equally good board.
THE GRAND HOTEL.--This magnificent hotel is the newest of all. It
stands on the south side of Market street, occupying the whole block
from New Montgomery to Second street, and stretching southward along
new Montgomery, across Stevenson street to Jessie. Its north front is
205 feet, its west front 335 feet, thus covering over one acre and a
half of ground. Its height is three stories, surmounted by a Mansard
roof, containing a fourth. Its style of architecture may be called the
"modern combination," highly ornamented. In method of construction, it
is a complete frame building, surrounded by brick walls of unusual
thickness. Its four hundred rooms include chambers, parlors and suits
of the amplest dimensions and the richest furnishing. The halls,
corridors and stairways are spacious and airy. Through all the halls,
at intervals of every few feet, hang coils of fire-hose, each attached
to full hydrants, and always ready for instant use. Bath-rooms and
toilets abound. Barber-shop, billiard room, and the most elegantly
frescoed bar-room upon the coast, occupy the most convenient portions
of the basement and first floor. An amply-supplied reading-room, with
most luxurious chairs, invites and detains all weary guests. Branch
offices of the leading telegraphs, postal delivery box, and all
needed facilities for correspondence, are at hand. Hacks stand
constantly at the three spacious entrances, and four leading lines of
horse-cars radiate thence to every portion of the city and suburbs.
The dining-hall accommodates three hundred. Its tables are of moderate
size, surrounded by plenty of room, loaded with abundant
"substantials," flanked with all the latest delicacies, and served in
the most attentive manner. Breakfast rooms for private parties, and
separate eating-rooms for servants and children, immediately adjoin
the main dining-hall. A large and well-appointed laundry promptly
accommodates guests.
If there's anything else imaginable in the whole list of first-class
hotel accommodations, just mention it to your obliging host Johnson,
or his courteous and efficient adjutant, Ridgeway, and it shall go
hard but they will furnish it for you at once, if it is to be had
within the limits of telegraph and express.
THE OCCIDENTAL.--This popular standard house stands upon the east side
of Montgomery; its west front occupies the whole block from Bush
street to Sutter; stretches its north flank half a block down Bush
street, while its south flank goes a hundred and sixty-seven feet down
Sutter street. Vertically it rises six stories into the sunshine.
Four hundred and twelve elegant single and double rooms, with
numerous suits having ample bathing and other accommodations, besides
ladies' parlors, dining-halls, billiard-hall, convenient offices,
broad stairways, spacious halls, and roomy passages, make up this
truly magnificent mammoth establishment. The carpets and furniture are
of the most elegant and costly description. A large and
beautifully-fitted patent safety elevator adjoins the grand staircase
near the main hall, and reading-room at the Montgomery street
entrance.
Near the main entrance is a telegraph-office--hacks stand always in
front, and four leading lines of horse-cars pass the three entrances.
A newspaper and periodical stand, with post-office letter-box,
complete the conveniences of the reading-room.
The walls are braced with iron, and securely anchored, besides being
connected across the building by heavy iron ties on every story.
Manager, Philip McShane.
COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL.--This worthy compeer of the two already described,
occupies the southwest corner of Bush and Sansome streets.
Centrally-located, elegantly-constructed, conveniently-arranged, and
well-furnished, this house is one of the largest and newest
first-class hotels. An extensive addition, including some scores of
single and double rooms, richly furnished in the most modern style,
sufficiently indicate its prosperity. Tubbs & Patten, managers.
LICK HOUSE.--West side of Montgomery, between Sutter and Post streets.
Its east front occupies the entire block between these two streets,
and runs up between one and two hundred feet of each of them. Whilst
this house is excellently finished and furnished throughout, it is
especially celebrated for its elegant dining-hall, which is probably
more artistically-planned and exquisitely-finished than any public
dining-hall in the world. Jno. M. Lawlor & Co., managers.
BROOKLYN HOTEL.--Next to the elegant hotels already named, one may
reckon the "Brooklyn"--on Bush street, north side, between Montgomery
and Sansome. This excellent house makes a specialty of accommodating
families, having an unusually large number of suits of rooms
especially designed for their comfort. Its rates are about two thirds
of those before mentioned. Hotel coaches convey all guests to the
house free of charge. Messrs. Kelly & Wood, proprietors.
Besides the "Brooklyn," the traveler not wishing to stop at any of the
grander and dearer houses, may have his choice of the "Russ House,"
west side of Montgomery, from Sutter to Pine, Messrs. Pearson &
Seymour, proprietors; the "American Exchange," Sansome street, west
side, corner of Halleck, Timothy Sargent, proprietor; the "Morton
House," formerly Orleans Hotel, 117 Post street, south side, just
above Kearny; and the "International Hotel," Weygant & Partridge,
530-534 Jackson street, north side, just below Kearny.
EUROPEAN PLAN.--One fond of this style, may suit himself at Gailhard's
Hotel, Nos. 507 and 509 Pine street, Pereira & Co., proprietors. "What
Cheer House"--This famous hotel combines the lodging-house and
restaurant under one roof, with a success of which no old Californian
needs be told. Besides the usual reading-room, it has also an
extensive library and museum, free to all guests; R. B. Woodward,
proprietor, 525-529 Sacramento street.
Lodging Houses.
Among these we name the "Nucleus" and the "Clarendon" as equal to the
best. The "Nucleus" stands on the southeast corner of Third and Market
streets; David Stern, proprietor. The "Clarendon House," John M. Ward,
manager, 574 Folsom street, northwest corner of Second, is new and
central.
Restaurants.
Whether a man eats to live or lives to eat, he can readily suit
himself here. At present rates, the traveler can get better food,
greater variety, and more of it for the same money, than in any
eastern city. Among the best restaurants, are Saulmann's, 520
California street, north side, between Montgomery and Kearny; Swain's
Family Bakery and Restaurant, 636 Market, north side, between
Montgomery and Kearny; Martin's, Commercial street; Job's, 327 Kearny;
and Lermitte's Coffee Saloon, 530 Merchant street.
Baths.
The hotels usually furnish first-class facilities without the trouble
of going out from under the roof. Should anyone, however, wish a more
extended application of fresh or salt water, hot or cold, vapor or
steam, Turkish, Russian or Roman, he has come to the very place where
they have them even better than in their original countries. If you
doubt it, ask Bayard Taylor.
Zeile's Baths, at 527 Pacific street, north side, between Montgomery
and Kearny, furnish more natural facilities and improved artificial
appliances for the scientific application of Russian, Turkish, and
Roman baths, than any other establishment in Europe or America. The
visitor will be surprised at the extent and completeness of every
appointment in Dr. Zeile's establishment.
Places of Amusement.
No matter how busy you may be at home, you are _here_ for enjoyment.
When evening comes you want a good lecture, concert or play. We have
them all--the first occasionally, the last two regularly. The newest,
largest and finest play house is the
CALIFORNIA THEATER, on the north side of Bush street between Kearny
and Dupont: John McCullough, lessee and manager. If there's a good
play in the city, we generally find it here; if there are comfortable
chairs and luxurious boxes anywhere, they are certainly here; and if
there's an artist of good taste and a successful manager combined in
one man, his name is John McCullough. The theater is new and spacious,
having comfortable seats for over three thousand, one of the largest
stages in the United States, with complete mechanical appliances, and
finely-painted scenery and drop-curtain.
METROPOLITAN THEATER.--Montgomery street, north side, between
Washington and Jackson. Occasionally occupied for transient
engagements, often presenting excellent plays. Has fine acoustic
properties; seats two thousand.
ALHAMBRA, 325 Bush street. This is a snug and tasty combination of
theater, minstrels and opera house, usually presenting some popular
and spicy blending of wit, art and song.
MAGUIRE'S OPERA HOUSE.--Washington street, north side, between
Montgomery and Kearny; Thomas Maguire, proprietor. This is the famous
old theater in which Forrest, Kean and Booth delighted the California
audiences of earlier days.
CHINESE THEATER.--At No. 630 Jackson street the curious visitor may
witness the most curious medley ever put upon a stage and called a
play. An interminable and unintelligible jargon of ding-dong,
clatter-clatter, tum-tum and rattle-rattle-rattle combined with
falsetto screeches, wonderful gymnastics, graceful contortions,
terrific sword combats, and strange old oriental masqueradings, is
what you may see in the celestial play house. Half an hour of it will
fully satisfy you; but every eastern visitor must needs endure at
least so much.
MUSEUMS--WOODWARD'S.--At Woodward's Gardens, Mission street, between
Thirteenth and Fourteenth. This contains over ten thousand specimens
of zoology, ornithology, Indian relics, alcoholic collections, natural
curiosities, ancient coins, etc., besides a beautifully arranged and
finely lighted art gallery, including several rare old pictures, and a
sort of floral museum in the shape of a charming conservatory, wherein
fragrance vies with beauty to delight and detain.
MELODEONS, DANCE HALLS, BEER CELLARS.--We hardly anticipate that the
average tourist will care to be "guided" into places under this
heading, but the philosophic student of human nature, as well as the
curious observer of social customs, cannot consider his knowledge of
any city complete until he has personally seen and actually known, not
only the highest, but the lowest, amusements extensively patronized by
its people. Like all other large cities, San Francisco has its share
of low haunts in which really modest, and sometimes meritorious,
performances blend with a much larger proportion of immodest,
meretricious and disgraceful ones.
Halls.
PLATT'S HALL.--216 Montgomery, east side, just north of Bush street,
is one of the most popular in the city. Popular concerts, literary
lectures, religious anniversaries, educational celebrations, magical
entertainments, military balls and social dances, succeed each other
so rapidly that there are few nights, especially in the pleasure
season, when Platt's Hall does not offer something worth going to see.
Henry B. Platt, proprietor.
UNION HALL.--South side of Howard, near Third. This is the largest
permanent hall in the city, and a grand place for unusually large
social parties, exhibitions, political conventions and popular mass
meetings. It easily accommodates upwards of three thousand.
PACIFIC HALL.--In the California Theater building, north side of Bush,
just above Kearny. This is a centrally-located, tastefully-finished
double hall, that is, two connected so as to be used singly or jointly
according to need. Capacity, fifteen hundred.
MERCANTILE LIBRARY HALL.--In the basement of the Mercantile Library
Association Building, north side of Bush street, between Montgomery
and Sansome. Elegantly finished in pure white, with paneled and
ornamented walls and ceilings. Accommodates eight hundred. The
closeness of the neighboring buildings gives it a bad light by day,
but no hall in the city lights up more brilliantly at night.
MECHANICS' INSTITUTE HALL.--Upon the lower floor of the building of
that association, south side of Post street, between Montgomery and
Kearny. This is another newly-constructed, conveniently-planned,
well-furnished and centrally-located hall, with a medium capacity of
about six hundred.
Y. M. C. A. HALL.--Young Men's Christian Association building, north
side of Sutter, just west of Kearny. A remarkably neat,
well-proportioned, lofty and well-ventilated hall, having its capacity
largely increased by a conveniently-sloping gallery stretching across
the whole of one side, and throwing forward its flanks at either end.
Capacity, six hundred and fifty.
DASHAWAY HALL.--Dashaway Society's building, south side of Post,
between Kearny and Dupont. This singular name belongs to the pioneer
temperance organization of the Pacific coast. Its origin can hardly be
better stated than in the brief sentences of Tuthill, in his History
of California: "A company of firemen, Howard No. 3, sitting in their
engine house late at night, January 1st, 1859, celebrating New Year's
after the custom of the country, fell to musing over their future
prospects, and were vouchsafed a vision of their probable fate. At
last they solemnly agreed to discontinue the use of intoxicating
liquor, or, as they phrased it, to "_dash away_ the cup." They
accordingly organized a temperance society of "Dashaways," with Frank
E. R. Whitney, chief engineer of the fire department of San Francisco,
as their first President, pledging themselves to drink nothing
intoxicating for five and one half months. They kept their promise,
and liked it so well that, before reaching the limit of their
self-imposed pledge, they renewed it for all time." Thus began the
first temperance society of California, which has enrolled thousands
of names, erected a fine building, founded a large library, and
maintains weekly lectures to this day. In a country where wine is fast
becoming a chief production, and whose greatest present danger is the
social glass, the origin, efforts and success of the pioneer
temperance organization merit more than passing notice.
BILLIARDS.--Tournaments and champions of this king of in-door games
compel brief mention of this popular amusement and the places where
one may best enjoy it. Every leading hotel has a fine billiard room
attached; those of the four first named are palatial in the elegance
and richness of their finish and furniture.
BOWLING SALOONS AND SHOOTING GALLERIES.--We set these together, not
because of any particular affinity between the two, but because the
city has hardly enough of either to make an item of one alone. At the
southwest corner of Montgomery and Pine, the enthusiastic bowler may
probably find as many pins as he can prostrate, with attendants who
can set them up as fast as he can knock them down; while at 913 Kearny
street, he can keep up his practice, if already an expert, or "get his
hand in," if a novice, at
"Shooting folly as she flies."
Those wishing the longer range for rifle practice, find it at
Hermann's, near the Presidio, that is, on one's way to Fort Point.
Gymnasiums.
Although nominally a christian land, California has yet many sturdy
"musclemen" within her borders, while her larger cities have several
schools of various kinds, for the training of young disciples in
"muscular christianity."