conveyances, and excellent hotel accommodations, will be sure to go in
or come out by way of Coulterville. This town lies on Maxwell creek, a
branch of the Merced, about eighteen hundred feet above the sea, and
not far from the border-land between the "foot-hills" and the
mountains proper. The road runs from Coulterville nearly northeast,
about eight miles, when it strikes the North Fork of the Merced. Along
the side of this stream it descends for a short distance, then crosses
and passes near the
Bower Cave.
This is a picturesque and unique locality, and is well worth a visit.
The cave is an immense crack or sink, or both combined, in the solid
limestone of the mountaintop. At the surface it presents a somewhat
crescent-shaped opening, one hundred and thirty-three feet long,
eighty-six feet wide near the centre, and one hundred and nine feet
deep in the deepest place. Trees grow from the bottom and lift their
branches out through the opening at the top, while a beautifully
tranquil and wonderfully clear lake occupies the greater portion of
the floor.
We enter at the north end and go down by a rough but strong and safe
staircase. The walls of the cleft are perpendicular, or nearly so,
throughout the greater portion of their extent, but near the south end
the upper part of the wall projects or overhangs several feet.
The bottom has the form of an irregular square, measuring over a
hundred feet one way and somewhat less than a hundred the other. From
the bottom and near the centre grow three large maples, the largest of
which is more than two feet through, and about a hundred and
twenty-five feet high. Around these trees are benches, capable of
seating a score or two of persons. On one side of the wall, some
twenty feet above the bottom, is a singular niche or alcove which has
been christened the "Pulpit." It is occasionally used for the
legitimate purpose of similar constructions, though more frequently
occupied by the fiddler of some festive party. Upon special occasions,
such as a Fourth of July celebration, they erect tables here and use
all the available floor as a dining hall. Over a hundred have thus
dined here at one time.
In one corner, and nearly under the pulpit, is a small but singularly
beautiful lake, rendered somewhat ghostly and mysterious by the
overhanging rocky wall, and the intercepted light falling through the
overshadowing trees. Upon this lake is a small boat, in which the
imaginative visitor may easily fancy himself crossing the Styx, with
himself as his own Charon. Not far from the corner of this lake,
nearly under the pulpit, the water is claimed to have an immense
depth. In all parts it is so clear that one can plainly see the cracks
and crevices in the sloping limestone sides at the depth of forty
feet. The vision would, doubtless, penetrate much deeper did not the
overhanging walls obstruct the light.
Having rowed across the lake, as you are returning to the shore, the
guide may possibly ask you to keep very quiet while he calls and feeds
his fish. He gives a few soft whistles, places his hand in the water,
waits a moment, repeats his whistle, and softly whispers, "Here they
come." Up swim several large trout, rub their noses against his hand,
and circle slowly around it, evidently waiting for the customary food.
And that hand seldom disappoints them. It is a pleasant and restful
sight. After enjoying it, seeing them finish feeding, and returning to
the landing, you ask the guide how they became so tame. He tells you,
that for several weeks after putting them into the lake, which he did
some years ago, he came every day, about the same time, softly
whistling and gently dropping crumbs and worms into the water. After a
few days he began to hold on to one end of a worm while the trout
would swim up, take hold of the other end and tug away until he pulled
it apart, or the hand let go. After a few months they seemed to have
learned to associate the whistling and the feeding, so that whenever
they hear the first they swim up in evident expectation of the second.
At various heights upon one wall several large cavities or small caves
are worn into the rock, some of which admit the tourist for a
considerable distance. These make that side of the wall a collection
of cells, some of which are high enough to permit the visitor to walk
erect; others so low that they compel one who would enter to crawl
upon his hands and knees. When first discovered, the walls of these
chambers were covered with beautiful stalactites of various sizes and
fanciful forms, but the ruthless hands of vandal visitors have
gradually broken them off and carried them away, until hardly a trace
of their original beauty and variety remains.
During the heat of the summer, the time when nearly all visitors enter
this cave, its cool and refreshing temperature makes it a comfortable
and welcome retreat, especially during the hotter midday hours. The
place seems as if nature and art had combined to make it as attractive
as possible for hot weather picnics, or midsummer lunch parties. It
is difficult to imagine, and almost impossible to discover a more
fascinating combination of dell and grotto, grove and lake, cave and
bower, than nature has kindly provided for the tourist in the romantic
Bower Cave.
ALABASTER CAVE.
The following account of one of the most beautiful of all nature's
marvels, is taken, with few alterations, from Yosemite Hutchings'
book, entitled "Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California."
The Alabaster Cave is in El Dorado County, twelve and a half miles
from Folsom by the "Whisky Bar" road, and ten miles by the El Dorado
Valley turnpike. Its more exact location is upon Kidd's Ravine, about
three quarters of a mile from its opening upon the north fork of the
American River. From Sacramento it is thirty-three miles; by rail to
Folsom: from Auburn, about three miles, by stage.
It was discovered in April, 1860, in the following way: A ledge of
limestone, resembling marble in appearance, cropped out by the side of
El Dorado Valley turnpike road. Upon testing it was found to be
capable of producing excellent lime.
On the 18th of April, 1860, two workmen, George S. Hatterman and John
Harris, were quarrying limestone from this ledge, when, upon the
removal of a large piece of rock, they discovered a dark opening
sufficiently enlarged to permit their entrance. Availing themselves of
the light pouring in through the opening, they went in as far as they
could see--some fifty feet. Before venturing further into the
darkness, they threw a stone forward, which, striking in water,
determined them to return for lights. At this juncture Mr. Gwinn, the
owner of the ledge, came up, and, upon learning of their discovery,
immediately sent for candles to enable them to further prosecute their
explorations. The result of these, after several hours spent in them,
can hardly be better described than in Mr. Gwinn's own language, taken
from a letter, dated April 19, 1860, addressed to Mr. Holmes, a
gentleman friend of his residing in Sacramento, and first published in
the _Bee_, of that city:
"Wonders will never cease. On yesterday, we, in quarrying rock, made
an opening to the most beautiful cave you ever beheld. On our first
entrance we descended about fifteen feet, gradually, to the centre of
the room, which is one hundred by thirty feet. At the north end there
is a most magnificent pulpit, in the Episcopal church style, that man
has ever seen. It seems that it is, and should be, called the "Holy of
Holies." It is completed with the most beautiful drapery of alabaster
sterites of all colors, varying from white to pink-red, overhanging
the beholder. Immediately under the pulpit there is a beautiful lake
of water, extending to an unknown distance. We thought this all, but,
to our great admiration, on arriving at the centre of the first room,
we saw an entrance to an inner chamber, still more splendid; two
hundred by one hundred feet, with the most beautiful alabaster
overhanging in every possible shape of drapery. Here stands magnitude,
giving the instant impression of a power above man; grandeur that
defies decay; antiquity that tells of ages _unnumbered_; beauty that
the touch of time makes more beautiful; use exhaustless for the
service of men; strength imperishable as the globe, the monument of
eternity--the truest earthly emblem of that everlasting and
unchangeable, irresistible Majesty, by whom, and for whom, all things
were made."
As soon as the news spread, hundreds of people flocked to see the
newly discovered wonder, from all the surrounding mining settlements,
so that within the first six days, it was visited by upwards of four
hundred persons, many of whom, we regret to say, possessed a larger
organ of acquisitiveness than of veneration, and laid vandal hands on
some of the most beautiful portions within reach, near the entrance.
Upon this, the proprietor closed it until arrangements could be made
for its protection and systematic illumination; the better to see and
not to touch the specimens.
At this time Messrs. Smith & Hatterman leased the cave and immediately
began to prepare it for the reception of the public by building
barricades, platforms, etc., and placing a large number of lamps at
favorable points, for the better illumination and inspection of the
different chambers.
At the time of its discovery, in the spring, considerable water was
standing in some of the deepest of the cavities, but it presently
began to recede at the rate of nearly six inches a day, and continued
to do so, until, in a few weeks, it had entirely disappeared, leaving
the cave perfectly dry. This afforded opportunity for further
exploration, upon which it was found that a more convenient entrance
could be made, with but little labor, from an unimportant room within
a few feet of the road. This was accordingly done, and the new
opening, in addition to its increased convenience, allows the free
circulation of pure air.
Having thus given a historical sketch of its discovery, with other
matters connected with its preservation and management, we shall now
endeavor to take the reader with us, at least in imagination, while
attempting a detailed description of its interior.
Upon approaching the cave from the roadside, we descend three or four
steps to a board floor. Here is a door which is always carefully
locked when no visitors are within. Passing on we enter a chamber
about twenty-five feet long by seventeen feet wide and from five to
twelve and a half feet in height.
Though very plain and comparatively unattractive at both roof and
sides, it is yet quite curious, especially to visitors unaccustomed to
caves. Here is also a desk, upon which lies a book inscribed, "Coral
Cave Register." This book was presented by some gentlemen of San
Francisco, who thought that the name "Coral Cave" would be more
appropriate. The impression produced upon our mind upon the first walk
through it, was that "Alabaster Cave" would be equally as good a name,
but, upon examining it more thoroughly, we afterwards thought, that as
a great proportion of the ornaments at the roots of the stalactites
look like beautifully frozen mosses, or very fine coral, and the long
icicle-looking pendants being more like alabaster, the name, Coral
Cave, was to be preferred. But as Mr. Gwinn had given the name
"Alabaster" to the works themselves, on account of the purity and
whiteness of the limestone there found, even before the discovery of
the cave, we cheerfully acquiesce in the name originally given.
The register was opened April twenty-fourth, 1860, and upon our visit,
September thirtieth of the same year, two thousand seven hundred and
twenty-one names had been registered. Some three or four thousand
persons had visited it before the register was provided, many declined
entering their names after it was furnished, and many others visited
it after the date of our visit, so that it is probable that the
number of persons who entered this cave during the year of its
discovery must have been nearly or quite three thousand five hundred.
Advancing beyond the vestibule, or register room, along another
passage or room, our eyes rest on several notices, such as, "Please do
not touch the specimens," "No smoking allowed," "Hands and feet off,"
with _feet_ scratched out, amputation of those members not intended!
The low, shelving, rocky wall upon the left and near the end of the
passage are covered with coral-like excrescences, resembling bunches
of coarse rock-moss. This brings us to the entrance of the
Dungeon of Enchantment.
Before us is a broad, oddly-shaped and low-roofed chamber, about one
hundred and twenty feet long, by seventy in width, and from four to
twenty feet high.
Bright coral-like stalactites hang down in irregular rows and in
almost every variety of shape and shade, from milk-white to cream
color; forming a most agreeable contrast with the dark arches and the
frowning buttresses on either hand, while low-browed ridges, some
almost black, others of a reddish-brown, stretch from either side, the
space between which is ornamented with a peculiar kind of coloring
which nearly resembles a grotesque species of graining.
Descending toward the left, we approach one of the most singularly
beautiful groups of stalactites in this apartment. Some of these are
fine pendants, hardly larger than pipestems, from two to five feet
long, and hollow from end to end. When the cave was first discovered
there were four or five of these pendants over eight feet long, but
the early admitted vandals ruthlessly destroyed, or selfishly carried
them off. Others resemble the ears of white elephants, or, rather, the
white elephant of Siam, while others still present the appearance of
long and slender cones, inverted.
Examining this and other groups more closely, we discover at their
bases coral-like excrescences of great beauty; here, like petrified
moss, brilliant, and almost transparent; there, a pretty fungus,
tipped and spangled with diamonds; yonder, miniature pine trees,
which, with a most obliging disposition to accommodate themselves to
circumstances, grow bottom up. In other places appear fleeces of the
finest merino or silky floss.
Leaving these, and turning to the right, we can ascend a ladder into
the loftiest part of this chamber. Here new combinations of beauty
surprise and delight us. Thence passing on, we come to a large
stalagmite, whose form and size suggest a tying post for horses. This
has been dignified, or mystified, anything but beautified, by
different names, more or less appropriate. One is "Lot's Wife." If
the woman was no higher than the stalagmite she must have been a
dwarf, for the top of the post is but four feet and a quarter above
its bottom, while its diameter at the bottom is hardly one foot. Its
two other names, "Hercules' Club," and "Brobdignag's Forefinger," are
more appropriate, though the latter would suggest an "exaggeration,"
as Mrs. Partington would have it.
Continuing on, we pass over a gently rising floor resembling
solidified snow, until we approach the verge of, and look down into,
an immense abyss, surmounted by a cavernous roof. Icicle and coral
formations depend from the roof, and a rude drapery of jet covers the
sides. Here is suspended a singular petrifaction resembling a human
heart, which looks as if it might have belonged to one of the
primitive Titans, or come from the chest of that Miltonian monster,
whose spear-shaft was like a Norway pine.
On one side of this is an elevated and nearly level natural floor,
upon which a table and seats have been temporarily erected for the
convenience of choristers, choirs or singing societies, and even for
the accommodation of public worship, should any desire to witness or
participate in it in this most beautiful of God's natural temples. The
lover of sacred music would be delighted beyond measure to hear these
"vaulted hills" resound the symphonies of Mozart, Haydn or
Mendelssohn. Scores of these pendent harps would vibrate in unison,
or echo them in delicious harmonies from chamber to chamber, or bear
them from roof to wall in diminishing reverberations even to the most
remote of these rock-formed corridors.
We may not linger here too long, so passing hence, we enter other and
smaller chambers, along whose roofs we trace formations that resemble
streams of water suddenly arrested in their flow and turned to ice. In
another, a peculiarly shaped petrifaction presents a perfectly formed
beet from one point of view, while from another it resembles a small
elephant's head. Not far hence, a bell-shaped hollow, a beautiful
combination of grotto and arcade, has received the name of "Julia's
Bower."
Once more advancing, a narrow, low-roofed passage brings us into the
most beautiful chamber of all, the
Crystal Chapel.
No language can suitably convey, nor any comparisons worthily suggest,
the combined beauty and magnificence of this wonderful spot. "From the
beginning," says Hutchings, "we have felt that we were almost
presumptuous in attempting to portray these wonderful scenes, but, in
hope of inducing others to see, with their natural eyes, the sights
that we have seen, and enjoy the pleasure that we have enjoyed, we
entered upon the task, even though inadequately, of giving an
outline--nothing more. Here, however, we confess ourselves entirely
at a loss.
"The sublime grandeur of this imposing sight fills the soul with
astonishment that swells up from within as though its purpose was to
make the beholder speechless, the language of silence being the most
fitting and impressive when puny man treads the great halls of nature,
the more surely to lead him, humbly, from these to the untold glory of
the Infinite One who devised the laws, and superintended the processes
that brought such wonders into being.
"After the mind seems prepared to examine this gorgeous spectacle
somewhat in detail, we look upon the ceiling, if we may so speak,
which is entirely covered with myriads of the most beautiful of stone
icicles, long, large and brilliant; between these are squares or
panels, the mullions and bars of which seem to be formed of diamonds;
while the panels themselves resemble the frosting upon windows in the
very depth of winter; and even those are of many colors, that most
prevailing being of a light pinkish-cream. Moss, coral, floss, wool,
trees, and many other forms, adorn the interstices between the larger
of the stalactites. At the further end is one vast mass of rock,
resembling congealed water, apparently formed into many folds and
hillocks; in many instances connected by pillars with the roof above.
Deep down and underneath this is the entrance by which we reached the
chamber.
"At our right stands a large staglamite, dome-shaped at the top, and
covered with beautifully undulating and wavy folds. Every imaginable
gracefulness possible to the most curiously arranged drapery, is here
visible, 'carved in alabaster' by the Great Architect of the universe.
This is named 'The Pulpit.'
"In order to examine this object with more minuteness, a temporary
platform has been erected, which, although detractive of the general
effect, in our opinion, affords a nearer and better view of all these
remarkable objects in detail.
"This spectacle, as well as the others, being brilliantly illuminated,
the scene is very imposing, and reminds one of those highly-wrought
pictures of the imagination, painted in such charming language and
with such good effect in such works as the 'Arabian Nights.'
"Other apartments known as the 'Picture Gallery,' etc., might well
detain us longer, but, as in many of their most important particulars,
they bear a striking resemblance to those already described, we leave
them for the tourist to examine for himself." If what we have said
excites the desire of any tourist to visit this new combination of
wonder and beauty, we are quite sure he will agree with us that the
words of man utterly fail to adequately picture forth the works of
God, and will ever after delight his soul with the life-long memory of
his charming visit to the wonderful Alabaster Cave.
Tourist's Complete Guide
TO
San Francisco, Suburbs and Vicinity;
WITH SPECIAL TRIPS AND SHORT EXCURSIONS IN AND ABOUT THE CITY.
I. CITY PROPER.
SKETCH OF THE CITY--Historical, Topographical, General
Plan 95-107
APPROACHES TO THE CITY--From the east, by boat; from
the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steamship, 107-113
CONVEYANCES--Hacks, Coaches, Cars, Porters, Legal Rates,
Caution, Baggage and Package Express, 113-116
HOTELS--Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, Lick House,
Brooklyn, Russ House, American Exchange, Morton
House, International, Hotel Gailhard, What Cheer,
(males only), 116-121
LODGING HOUSES--Nucleus, Clarendon, 121
RESTAURANTS--Saulman's, Swain's, Job's, Martin's, Lermitte's,
121-122
BATHS--Fresh, Salt, Turkish, Russian, Roman, Steam and
Vapor, 122
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT--California, Metropolitan, Alhambra,
Maguire's, and Chinese Theatres; Museums, Melodeons,
Dance Halls, and Beer Cellars, 122-125
HALLS--Platt's, Union, Pacific, Mercantile Library, Mechanic's
Institute, Y. M. C. A., Mozart, Dashaway, 125-126
BILLIARDS, Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries, 127-128
GYMNASIUMS--Olympic Club, Y. M. C. A., German Turn
Verein, Skating Rinks, Base Ball Ground, 128-130
GARDENS--Woodward's, City, 130-140
MENAGERIES--Woodward's Zoological Grounds, North
Beach, 140
SQUARES AND PARKS--Plaza, (Portsmouth Square), Washington
Square, South Park, 141
PROMENADES--Montgomery Street, Kearny Street, California
Street. BEST TIME, 141-144
DRIVES--Cliff House Road, Ocean House Road, Bay View,
New Ocean Road, Best Time, 145-148
LIBRARIES AND READING ROOMS--Mercantile, Mechanic's
Institute, Odd Fellow's, Pioneers, Y. M. C. A., What
Cheer, Woodward's Gardens, 148
PUBLIC BUILDINGS--_Federal_: Post Office, Custom House,
Old Mint, New Mint, Marine Hospital. _City and County_:
Old City Hall, New City Hall, Jail, Almshouse, Industrial
School, Engine Houses, Engines. _Corporation and
Society Buildings_: Pioneer's, Merchant's Exchange, Bank
of California, Mercantile Library Building, Mechanic's
Institute, Masonic Temple, Odd Fellow's Hall, Y. M. C. A.
Building, Mechanics' Pavilion, 148-157
BUSINESS BUILDINGS AND BLOCKS--Alta California Building,
Bancroft's, Donohoe, Kelly & Co., Harpending's Block,
Murphy, Grant & Co., Tobin, Dixon & Davisson, Treadwell's,
Tucker's, Wells, Fargo & C.'s Building, White
House, 157-159
MANUFACTORIES--Kimball Car and Carriage Factory, Pacific
Rolling Mills, Mission Woolen Mills, Foundries and
Iron Works, Locomotives, Boilers, Mining Machinery,
Shot Tower and Lead Works, Sugar Refinery, Glass
Works, Ship Yards, 159-161
CHURCHES--Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Jewish,
Methodist, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Swedenborgian,
Unitarian, Chinese Mission House, Mariner's
Church, Old Mission Church, 161-167
HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS--City and County, French, German,
Protestant Orphan, Roman Catholic Orphan, 167-169
COLLEGES--California Business University, City College,
St. Ignatius', St. Mary's, Toland Medical, 169-170
SCHOOL BUILDINGS--Denman, Girl's High, Lincoln, Valencia
Street, 171-172
PRINTING, Lithographing, Binding, and Blank Book Manufacturing
Establishment, 172-173
PRIVATE RESIDENCES--Davis', Eldridges, Laidley's, Latham's,
Bancroft's, Otis', Parrott's, Tallant's, Taylor's,
Tobin's, 174
POINTS OF OBSERVATION--Telegraph Hill, Russian Hill,
Clay Street Hill, California Street Hill, Rincon Hill,
Lone Mountain, Twin Peaks, Bernal Heights, U. S.
Observatory. Views from each, 174-184
HOW TO GET ABOUT--Horse Car Lines, Routes, Distances,
Times, Fares, Buggies, Carriages, Coaches and Saddle
Horses; qualities of, and charges for. Hacks, with rates
of hire, 184-188
II. SUBURBS AND VICINITY.