CHAPTER XIX._The Last Voyage: To India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'

_PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND._

_Tuesday, August 23rd._--I had a better night, and awoke feeling much

refreshed. Most of the party went early ashore to see what this

uninteresting town is like. Tom spent a busy morning with Mr. Milman,

going into statistics, fortification questions, and so forth. In the

afternoon we steamed across to the pearl-shell station on Prince of

Wales' Island, managed by Mr. Hall. He has a nice bungalow there, and

seems very busy and happy in his occupation, contriving to keep good

friends with all the 'boys,' as the coloured labourers from Manilla,

China, the South Sea Islands, and other places are called. These

'boys' are now busily occupied in unloading the shells from the boats

and cleaning and preparing them for the market, which latter process

we had come to see to-day. First we went to a small shed where about

half a dozen 'boys' were employed, some in chopping and scraping the

shells in order to reduce their weight, whilst others were washing and

cleaning them with brushes made from the outside of the cocoa-nut

husk, which, when split into strips, is excellent for the purpose, as

it scrapes and polishes the shells without scratching them. The boxes

stood ready outside for packing, each holding about two cwt. of

shells, valued at 11_l._ per cwt. The number of shells varies

according to their size, from sixty to sixty-five fitting into each

box. On a table in the middle of the shed the shells were being

quickly packed and nailed up, ready for exportation. They are just now

higher in price, on account of the disaster on the north-west coast of

Western Australia, which has temporarily crippled that rival station.

From the cleaning and packing shed we went to another, where the

diving apparatus is kept. This was sent out from England, and is

exactly the same as that in use everywhere, being made to fit tightly

round the ankles, wrists, and neck, with an immense superfluity of

space in the middle to hold a storage of air. Besides this heavy

dress, divers wear a belt with a large knife stuck into it, to cut

themselves free from any obstacle their ropes may get foul of, and

they also have a hook, to which their air-pipe is attached. In

addition to an enormous pair of leaden boots, two heavy pieces of lead

are suspended over their shoulders, one piece lying on their chest and

the other on their back. They descend with great rapidity, and can

walk, _with_ the current, on the bottom easily enough; but woe betide

them if the tender is not careful, for if their air-line catches in

anything it is absolutely impossible for them to make any headway

against the tide. Unless the men above are quick and clever enough to

repair the mistake promptly, they are lost.

Mr. Hall had kindly prepared tea for us at his house, but I wished to

return on board, and so deferred my visit until a future occasion. On

returning to our anchorage we had quite a business to stem the tide,

and took a long time to reach our destination. The others arrived in

time to go on shore and have a game of lawn-tennis, an amusement which

they all much enjoy, and which does them a great deal of good in the

intervals of their voyages. Mr. Milman dined with us and told me a

great many interesting things about his island, and afterwards the

gentlemen had some good games of whist. I have at last heard the real

story of the opals, for Mr. Milman's overseer was the first to bring

in a piece of opal off the Blackall station on the Listowel Downs, in

1869. The beautiful fragment stood on the mantelpiece for several

years before it was thought of any value, but at the time of the great

mining fever attention was attracted to the specimen, and it was sent

to a mineralogist, who pronounced it to be a fine and valuable opal.

The story struck me as being very similar to that told of the first

diamond found in South Africa; but doubtless there is a strong family

likeness in the early history of all gem-bearing districts.

_Wednesday, August 24th._--At ten o'clock this morning Mr. Milman came

on board, and we proceeded down the Sound to Goode Island, where we

anchored about half a mile from the shore. Tom, Tab, Mabelle, and Mr.

Milman landed at once, and walked up to the lighthouse to take a

bird's-eye view of this extensive archipelago and to discuss the best

method of defence, about which Mr. Milman was anxious to know Tom's

opinion. Later on I landed with the rest of the party, and we went to

see Captain and Mrs. Stevens, the former of whom is the manager of the

pearl-fishing station here. I then returned with Mrs. Stevens and her

children to lunch on board the yacht. Whilst I was still lying down to

rest I heard a bustle on deck as if the dinghy were being lowered, and

as I wanted to send a message on shore I called to them to stop. In

reply they told me that 'Sir Roger' was swimming off to the yacht, and

that not a moment must be lost in trying to save him. It did not tend

to calm my fears when Mrs. Stevens told me that the bay was perfectly

full of sharks, and that she herself had lost a fine dog not a month

ago under similar circumstances. Poor old 'Sir Roger' swam bravely

out, keeping his head well above the water; but what with the fear of

the strong current dashing him against the sharp coral reefs, and the

dread of seeing him dragged under by the snags of a ferocious shark, I

spent a bad quarter of an hour. At last I saw him pulled safely into

the boat. I have been so ill lately, and necessarily left so much

alone when the others were on shore, that my dog has become more than

ever a companion to me, and never leaves my chair or bed for an

instant if he can possibly help it. He had been fairly driven away

this morning to accompany Tom on his long walk to the lighthouse, for

I knew the outing would do him good. Halfway up the hill he refused to

follow any further, and bolted back, in a straight line, to the beach,

and had actually swum more than halfway to the yacht before he was

picked up. I should hardly have thought a dog could identify the

vessel at so great a distance.

Those of the party who had been left on shore came off to a late

lunch, and shortly afterwards we got up our anchor and steamed back

towards Thursday Island. This was again a work of great difficulty,

for the tide ran eight or nine knots an hour, and a stiff gale was

blowing against us. Once or twice, in the narrows, we positively stood

still for five or ten minutes at a time, and the chief engineer was

considerably chaffed about his beloved engines not moving the vessel

ahead at all. We reached our anchorage safely at half-past four, and

soon afterwards many people came off to the yacht. I was too tired to

see them, but I am told they appeared greatly interested in their

inspection. Some of our own party went ashore in the afternoon to

lawn-tennis, and Mr. Milman came back with them to dinner.

[Illustration: Darnley Island; the Shore]

_Thursday, August 25th._--We were to have been off, first at daybreak,

and then at 9 A.M. When Mr. Milman and Mrs. Hunt, the wife of the

missionary, whom we were going to convey to Darnley Island, appeared

on board, it was blowing a strong gale of wind nearly dead in our

teeth, and the voyage did not offer a very cheerful prospect. As we

had made all arrangements, we thought it better to proceed. At

half-past six we started, and, passing Ninepin Rock and Saddle Island,

soon found ourselves in a channel full of reefs, rocks, islands,

islets, and dangers seen and unseen, which made the navigation an

anxious task for Tom. He was ably assisted by Mr. Milman. It was a

most unpleasant morning, and, keeping quietly down in my berth, I

think I was better off than some of those on deck. After passing

Ninepin and Saddle Islands, and the three island-sisters, Poll, Bet,

and Sue, we made Cocoa-nut Island, one of the few high islands we have

seen to-day. During the afternoon the navigation continued to be

intricate, but shortly after sunset we made York Islands, under the

lee of the larger of which we anchored for the night in tolerably

sheltered water. The York Islands are two in number, connected with

each other at low water by a sandy spit. A semicircular reef four

miles long and nearly two miles broad extends along the south side of

the islands, the larger of which is one and a half mile long, and lies

towards the western end of the reef, while the other is on its

north-eastern extremity. There are only two white men living on York

Islands; one is an English gentleman, and the other bears the name of

Yankee Ned. He is the proud possessor of a telescope which, he

declares, belonged either to Captain Cook or Admiral La Perouse. It

bears marks of great antiquity, but there is no name or descriptive

mark to show that it ever really was used by such distinguished

navigators. These two men have a very large beche-de-mer station here,

which they manage with the aid of some natives, and make over

1,000_l._ a year out of it.

_Friday, August 26th._--The wind was blowing stronger than ever to-day

at daylight. We got under weigh at six as prearranged, but were no

sooner out of the shelter of the island than Tom came to ask if it

would not be better, on my account, to turn back, for we should have

fifty miles or more beating dead in the wind's eye to Murray Island,

besides which the weather was so thick that we should have some

difficulty in seeing the unsurveyed coral reefs through which we must

pass. The only objection to this course was that we had promised to

convey Mrs. Hunt to her new mission station at Murray Island. We

finally decided to proceed as far as Darnley Island, which we should

necessarily pass on the way to Murray Island; so, passing Campbell,

Stevens, and Nepean Islands, at which innumerable cross-bearings were

taken, we anchored off Darnley Island precisely at half-past ten. It

is very pretty as seen from the sea, with large groves of cocoa-nut

trees growing right down to the shore. On the higher ground the

cleared slopes of grass give it at a distance something of the look of

an English park. At half-past eleven we all landed, being only too

glad to have dry land once more beneath our feet, after the shaking

and tossing about of the last twenty-four hours. All our anxieties as

to Mrs. Hunt were relieved by seeing her husband's schooner, the

'Mary,' riding quietly at anchor in the bay. The difficulties of

landing were great, for the tide was low and the poor gig kept bumping

against the coral-reefs and rocks to such an extent that I was afraid

she would have a hole knocked in her bottom. However, some of the

natives came out to help us, and, wading waist-deep in the water,

guided us into a small channel, and from thence carried us one by one

ashore. I was borne in my chair straight to the house of the chief,

who is called King Jack, and who, with his wife, was anxious to

welcome and shake hands with us all. The flag flying before his trim

little cottage--red with a yellow cross--did not satisfy King Jack at

all, so we promised him a blue Jack for use on future festive

occasions.

At the back of the village a grove of cocoa-nuts waving in the strong

sea-breeze put me in mind of a South Sea island, such as we so often

landed on in going round the world in 1870. Even the dress of the

natives was just the same, consisting of the original long George II.

sack, brought out by the first missionaries, with its original shape

somewhat lost and altered by the lapse of long years and the variety

of hands through which the pattern has passed. We rested in the back

garden for some time. The chief's men climbed the trees and brought us

down fresh cocoa-nuts, giving us the milk and the nice creamy

substance which lines the shell when the nuts are quite young. This is

most delicious, and is a dainty one never has a chance of tasting in

England, for it is quite different to the dried-up and aged cocoa-nuts

to be procured from Covent Garden. We took some photographs of the

groups of natives and of the curious native boats, hollowed out of a

single trunk, which were lying pulled up on the shore before us. The

larger canoes are made from timber grown in New Guinea, which must be

much larger than any trees we saw growing on the island. After a

short delay I was carried by some native policemen through a little

village consisting of a few circular and oblong houses made of plaited

grass and thatch, all of which had been so familiar to one's eyes in

the South Seas. It was quite like old times to see these dwellings

again, and some of them were actually occupied by genuine South Sea

Islanders--Kanakas. The men of these islands are very similar in

appearance to that race, though I think the type here is finer.

[Illustration: Darnley Island]

At the end of the village stood the missionary's house, which was a

superior abode to the others. It has been built and is kept for the

use of white missionaries when they come over from the other islands.

The native teachers generally live in a little grass hut at the side,

and content themselves with gazing at the 'mansion'--a small dwelling,

consisting of only one main room and two side-rooms off it, with deep

verandahs all round. The native teacher is a well-educated Kanaka.

His wife is of the same race, and is pleasant and agreeable. She

seemed to keep her house, hut, and children very tidy. Our path led up

from here through banana and cocoa-nut groves, with an undergrowth of

sweet potatoes, to the top of a little hill about 150 feet high. Close

to the rather dilapidated native church we found a beautiful sward of

grass shaded by cocoa-nut trees, where we established ourselves to

rest and look at the view. After a time the others joined us, and we

took some photographs before lunch, and then the party went off in

different directions--some to the windward beach to see what shells

could be collected; but they were not very successful in their quest,

the violence of the waves having either killed or broken most of the

specimens found. Others went clambering up to the top of the high

hills; while Mr. Milman sat in my carrying-chair and held a sort of

open-air court. The natives formed a picturesque group on the grass

around him. He found out all the news of the place since he had last

been here, and inquired into the administration of justice in a sort

of pigeon-English somewhat difficult to understand.

There was only one crime to report. A poor woman had been guilty of

what they called 'telling tales'--namely, saying that the laws of

Murray Island were good, but that at Darnley Island they were '_very_

bad.' For this the old chief, King Jack, promptly fined her 200

cocoa-nuts, which, by the way, we bought for 10_s._, knowing what a

welcome addition they will prove to our own and the crew's diet, for

fresh vegetables are difficult to procure. Mr. Milman has taken the

precaution of planting these islands with cocoa-nuts, and he allows

the people to keep a certain number, so that there is a definite and

just way of punishing them if they offend against the law, by fining

them so many cocoa-nuts. The money paid for the cocoa-nuts goes into

the national exchequer; and although the amount realised is not large,

as may be imagined, it contributes to the cost of repairs or

improvements.

During the afternoon 'Sir Roger' performed some of his tricks for the

amusement of the assembled natives. Their delight was intense and

unbounded. Though he may have had a more crowded, he never had a more

enthusiastic, audience. The performance was repeated several times,

but the natives never seemed to weary of it. I thoroughly enjoyed the

trip to the island to-day, and found it delicious to lie lazily under

the shade of the cocoa-nut trees and listen to just as much or as

little as I liked of what was going on round me. The rustle of the

wind through the long leaves of the cocoa-nut trees is far more calm

and peaceful than even the murmur of the 'immemorial elms;' and the

glimpses of the sea, dotted by small islands and coral reefs, on which

the waves broke in beautiful creamy foam, were most lovely. About four

o'clock we went down again to the village, passing through tracts of

cultivated ground bearing crops of sweet potatoes. On our way we

paused to admire the church bell--an ancient dinner-bell, which hung

by a piece of string from the longest and scraggiest arm of a very old

and leafless tree. All the rest of the party were assembled on the

beach, and a brisk trade was being done in corals, shells, and

cocoa-nuts, paid for in tobacco, which the islanders much prefer to

money. The teacher's wife was made happy by the gift of a reel of

white cotton and a packet of needles, which will enable her to carry

out her dressmaking operations and repairs with much greater ease. Her

eyes quite glistened as she took them. Mr. Savage told me that the two

Regina birds-of-paradise tails which I bought to-day were obtained

from a native of New Guinea who lives on the island of Peram, at the

mouth of the Fly River. From this man's account, the birds must abound

there; but I cannot help regretting that the poor creatures should be

sacrificed merely to line the cloaks of rich ladies.

While we were up on the hill the crew had been engaged in procuring

water to replenish our fast-failing stock. They had had great labour

in bringing off the water, for the well is half a mile from the beach,

and the sea was very rough. We only got a ton after all, when we

should have liked a dozen or fourteen tons! Soon after our return on

board a number of boats followed us, laden with baskets of sweet

potatoes, yams, pumpkins, cocoa-nuts, shells, coral, &c. So great was

the supply that the deck of the ship soon became covered with native

produce, the owners of which, like all true savages, considered it a

matter of etiquette and dignity not to express the least surprise or

astonishment at anything they saw, although somewhat taken aback by

the pictures and large looking-glasses. They were very pleasant and

obedient, doing exactly what they were told without touching anything.

Though feeling much the better for my outing, I became tired, and was

glad to lie down and rest in the deck-house. The little mission

schooner, the 'Mary,' with a dove and olive-branch on her flag as a

message of peace, was tossing and rolling about in the most unpleasant

manner, exposing her keel at almost every wave, first to windward and

then to leeward. Her captain and crew, a fine, determined-looking set

of Kanaka men, did not seem to mind the sea at all. I pity poor Mr.

and Mrs. Hunt, who will have to make their voyage to Murray Island

to-morrow in the teeth of this heavy wind. Mrs. Hunt remained on

shore, but Mr. Hunt and Mr. Savage came on board to dinner; and from

Mr. Savage I heard a good deal of his work among the natives. The

station here is comparatively small, but at Murray Island a

training-school for native teachers has been established, that island

being somewhat larger than this, surrounded by live coral reefs, and

containing about 400 inhabitants. Their principal field of mission

operations among the natives appears to be in the Fly River in New

Guinea, which is a most unhealthy spot. Their work is now beginning

to be attended with a large measure of success. At first no attempt

was made to teach the Papuans English. The missionaries were the only

people who could communicate with the natives. The ignorance of

English proved a great drawback to all trade, and it has certainly

retarded for years to come the opening up of the country. Not only is

the climate bad, but the natives of New Guinea are treacherous, and

not to be depended on for a moment.

[Illustration: Curios from Murray Island]

Mr. Savage has been out here for two years, thirteen months of which

time he has lived entirely by himself. Mr. and Mrs. Hunt are now going

to inhabit Murray Island, with only one European carpenter as their

companion, while Mr. Savage will be stationed principally at the Fly

River. The mission receives all its supplies from England _via_

Thursday Island, from which place they are fetched in the little

schooner, built by the carpenter Bruce, who was formerly a

yacht-builder. The life of these good people appears to be one of

much self-abnegation. I hope with all my heart that the mission may

succeed, and that the devoted missionaries will be rewarded for their

self-denying exertions.

_Saturday, August 27th._--A grey morning, with the wind blowing

stronger than ever. Navigation in these seas is by no means easy.

During the night we had dragged our anchor a little, enough to get

unpleasantly near the shore; and just as we weighed, the sails did not

fill so quickly as they ought to have done, which caused the yacht to

pay off with her head _towards_ the shore instead of _off_ shore.

There was barely a ship's length between us and the reef. It was with

great difficulty, and only by promptly dropping the anchor, that we

prevented ourselves from running straight on to shore. On first

starting we thought we should only get to Bet Island, one of the three

sisters. These islets swarm with turtle, which lay their eggs on the

sandy shores all the year round. We were looking forward to turtle

soup, turtle eggs, and all sorts of delicacies, to make a pleasant

change in the monotony of our daily fare. The wind, however, blew so

fresh that, though close-reefed, we sailed from ten to twelve knots an

hour, which of course caused a considerable amount of motion.

At a little before noon to-day we were off Cocoa-nut Island. Later we

passed in succession the Bet, Sue, and Poll Islands, and the Ninepin

Rock, a curious-shaped little islet, though anything less like a

ninepin I cannot imagine. In the afternoon, by dint of hard driving,

we were able to reach a good anchorage in Flinders Channel, between

Horn and Wednesday Island. As an instance of the rapidity of our

sailing speed, I may mention that seven measured miles between the two

islands was done in rather less than half an hour; which, considering

we were close-hauled, was not bad work. We had a fairly quiet night,

though it was blowing a gale, and of course the ship tumbled and

rocked about a good deal.

_Sunday, August 28th._--As the tide was running very strong, it was

decided not to start until eleven o'clock. We therefore had prayers

before starting, and sailed slowly across to our old anchorage, which

we reached about midday.

In the afternoon I was carried ashore to see Mrs. Milman, who appears

to be a great invalid. She has two nice little girls, who look after

the house and save their mother a great deal of trouble. There was

another little girl there, a daughter of Canon Taylor, who had come up

from Cooktown on a visit.

The Residency is a pleasant house, open to every breath of wind that

blows; of which, according to our experience of these parts, there is

plenty. The inhabitants tell us that this is the normal condition of

the weather here during nine months of the twelve. No doubt these

breezes are health-giving, but the perpetual blowing of the wind must

be fatiguing. It roars and whistles and shakes the house like an

incessant hurricane. The three months during which there is no wind is

at the period of the north-east monsoon, and then the rain descends in

torrents. Life during this time of the year at Thursday Island is

described as being dreary indeed.

We returned on board at half-past five, and everybody but myself

landed again later, and went to church at half-past seven at the Court

House. Mr. Milman read prayers and a sermon, and Tom read the lessons.

[Illustration: In the Torres Straits]

[Illustration: ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA]

_Monday, August 29th._--A very windy morning. Some pearl-merchants

came on board, bringing fine specimens of pearls, which seem quite as

costly here as in London. I bought some shells, more as specimens of

queer freaks of nature than for any intrinsic beauty or value they

possessed. In the afternoon we landed again on Thursday Island, and

Tom and I explored the little town, round which I was carried in a

comfortable chair. The place is larger than I expected, and the stores

seemed well furnished with dry goods of all kinds, besides tinned

meats, vegetables, and fruit; but there are no fresh provisions. A few

goslings, very like our wild geese, but not so big as a good-sized

duck, were running about, for which the owners asked 30_s._ apiece!

There were also some chickens to be bought for 10_s._ each. Some of

the houses are really not unsightly when seen from a distance, but

when you approach them the adjacent ground is found to be strewn with

straw, paper, old tins, broken bottles, and rubbish of every

description. I should like to have all the rubbish taken out to sea

and sunk, and then I would plant more trees and shrubs. At present

some miserable-looking cocoa-nuts, and a few hibiscus-bushes, with

their bright red blossoms, comprise everything in the way of

vegetation. On our way from the town to the Residency we passed Mr.

Symes's house. His mother very kindly came out to welcome us, and

asked us to go into their comfortable bungalow and have some tea,

which we were most thankful for. I was so tired. Mrs. Symes had a

married daughter and two nice little grandchildren living with her,

and we had a pleasant chat. She gave me what she says is an

infallible cure for bronchitis, and I only hope it may prove so. I

spoke to Mrs. Symes and her daughter, to whom I had previously sent

papers, about the Ambulance; and they appeared to be quite keen about

it, and promised to do all in their power to aid any classes that

might be established here. Continuing our walk we went to the

excellent lawn-tennis ground just below Mr. Milman's house. We could

only make a short stay, for the sun had set and it was rapidly getting

dark. The sea was rough going off, and I felt rather exhausted by the

time I arrived on board. Mr. Hall and Dr. Salter came to dinner, and

with the latter I had a long talk about the Ambulance. Dr. Salter is

quite willing to give the lectures, but there would be great

difficulty in bringing people together for the classes, for the tides

are strong and shifty, and so uncertain that one can never know till

the morning what they are going to be. The Doctor says the only chance

of inducing people to come will be to find out approximately the most

convenient day and hour and then hoist the signal on the flagstaff, so

that the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands may see it and attend

if they choose. Several of the masters and managers of the

pearl-shelling stations have promised to come themselves, and then to

try and pass on the knowledge they may acquire to their Malay,

Manilla, and other 'boys' who go out pearl-fishing and after

beche-de-mer. The instructions will be useful to these people, for

accidents often happen, principally from their own carelessness. The

divers are sometimes hoisted up to the surface asphyxiated from want

of air, and requiring almost precisely similar treatment to the

apparently drowned. Only last week they had a man on board one of the

schooners very nearly dead, but still able to speak and move. Instead

of attempting to relieve him they brought him here, a distance of

fifteen miles; and by the time he arrived, of course the little spark

of life he had possessed was quite extinguished. If only a knowledge

such as that conveyed by the instructions given by the St. John

Ambulance Association can be spread here, particularly among the

people employed at the pearl-fishing stations, it will be most

valuable. There are a great many men engaged in the pearl trade in the

Torres Straits, New Guinea, and the numerous islands in the vicinity.

It is, of course, impossible to establish a centre here; but I hope

before I leave to set a class on foot, with Mr. Hall for the

secretary, as he is most enthusiastic on the subject. Tom and I will,

as usual in such cases, become life members, so as to give the

movement a start.

[Illustration: Church on Darnley Island]

APPENDIX.

PART I.

_VOYAGE FROM DARNLEY ISLAND TO PORT DARWIN, MAURITIUS, CAPE OF GOOD

HOPE, AND ENGLAND._

(By LORD BRASSEY.)

The pen having fallen from her hand, the task which a brave yet gentle

spirit was struggling so hard to complete must be accomplished by one

who does not possess her gifts. For obvious reasons, the description

of the remainder of the voyage will be compressed within the closest

limits.

The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Thursday Island on September 1st. For three

days the winds were favourable, from the eastward. The next two days

being calm, the voyage was pursued under steam.

On September 5th, in the evening, the 'Sunbeam' was navigated, not

without difficulty, through the intricate channels of Clarence Strait.

On the 6th, at an early hour the anchor was dropped off the settlement

of Palmerston. Our arrival at Port Darwin took place under such

circumstances as render it impossible to offer any description from

personal observation.

Palmerston, the name given to the settlement at Port Darwin, is

beautifully situated on wooded headlands, jutting out into the

harbour, in whose ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the

navies of Europe could be anchored. The buildings have been erected

with considerable taste. A fine esplanade has been laid out along the

sea front. The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the great

colonies of Australia. In constructing the overland telegraph from

South Australia, a great middle section of the continent was

discovered, capable of producing pasture for tens of millions of sheep

and millions of cattle and horses. The first section from the north,

of what will eventually be the Trans-Australian Railway, has been

commenced, and is being carried out with energy by Messrs. Miller, the

well-known Melbourne contractors for public works.

The total area of the northern territory of South Australia is 523,620

square miles. Within this vast expanse are stony wastes and waterless

tracts, vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich alluvial flats,

large navigable rivers, and metalliferous areas, exceptionally rich in

tin, coal, copper, and silver. Thus far mining has been more

successful than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been able to

accomplish anything in cultivation. They have gathered harvests of

rice and sugar-cane from the limited areas which they have taken in

hand. On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown in many places.

The climate is tropical, and malaria, with its fever and ague, is

prevalent. The mean temperature of the year is 75 degrees, and the

thermometer has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The atmosphere

is dank, steamy, and heavy with moisture during the wet season, and

parching and malarial during the dry season.

From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,

the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east

Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on September 26th, and Mauritius

was reached on September 29th. It is a painful task to attempt to

describe scenes which would have been painted so much more effectively

by another. To give the daily life, which, needless to say, was very

sad, I will not attempt.

Mauritius is one of the few ports in which sailing ships still hold

the field against steamers. It was filled with a noble fleet. As a

mark of sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags were hoisted at

half-mast as soon as our sad intelligence became known.

Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the island of Mauritius

presents a scene of much beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of

picturesque and fantastic forms runs through the island from end to

end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte, 2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707

feet, are conspicuous summits. All the mountains are of volcanic

formation. Their barren precipices are blue and purple, and their

vegetation, watered by frequent and abundant showers, is of the

richest green. The landscape displayed admirable effects of colour,

varying with every change from rain to sunshine.

The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory are the most interesting

objects which Port Louis offers to the passing traveller. The gardens

are lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and a most rich and

abundant tropical vegetation, are a charming feature. The fine and

rare specimens in the gardens included the Traveller's tree, abounding

in water, the Ruffia palm from Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm,

the talipot palm, the Latania aurea from Rodriguez, and another

variety of latania from Round Island.

[Illustration: St. Louis, Mauritius]

The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr. Meldrum, is chiefly

devoted to meteorological and astronomical investigations. In addition

to these subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken daily,

and transmitted monthly to the Solar Physics Committee in London. The

transit of the moon has been observed with much success. Sea

observations from the log-books of vessels touching at Mauritius are

carefully recorded. The tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical

cyclones, which swept over the Indian Ocean south of the equator from

1856 to 1886, have been laid down on charts, and are ready for

publication. The in-curving theory of cyclones, as worked out by Dr.

Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it would appear that the rules

given for the guidance of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have been

the means of saving much life and property.

On the second day of our short stay we paid a quiet visit to the

Acting Governor. The recent political convulsions in Mauritius, in

connection with Sir John Pope Hennessy, had by no means subsided.

During his leave of absence the Governor was being represented with

admirable tact and judgment by Mr. Fleming, who had already succeeded

in establishing amicable relations with both sides. Considerable

jealousies exist between the English and French residents in

Mauritius. They have been unfortunately aroused to an unprecedented

degree of violence by the proceedings of Sir John Pope Hennessy. The

mass of the population of Mauritius are of mixed race, descendants of

the coolies employed on the plantations. French--or rather

_patois_--speaking Creoles come next in point of numbers. The Chinese

are the universal shopkeepers.

Later in the day we ascended the Pouce. It commands a view over the

harbour of Port Louis and the interior of the island. The broad and

shallow valleys, green with sugar-cane, reminded us much of our own

South Downs. From the Pouce we drove to the residence of a relative,

who is the owner of extensive sugar-cane plantations. The staple

industry of Mauritius is the cultivation of sugar. More than 100,000

tons are annually exported. India and Australia are the chief markets.

The bounty on the production of sugar in France and Germany has driven

the sugar of Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius received a

great blow from the opening of the Suez Canal, but it still possesses

abundant resources. The wealth of the island may in some degree be

measured by its public revenue, which amounts to no less than

700,000_l._ a year.

Mauritius produces scarcely anything required for its own consumption.

It imports rice from India, grain from Australia, oxen from

Madagascar, and sheep from the Cape.

Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted to the defences and the

docks. Progress is being made with the improvement of existing

defences and the construction of new forts. The works are well

advanced, and the guns are promised shortly from home. Mauritius

possesses three graving-docks. The Albion Dock could be readily

enlarged to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy on the

part of the Government to assist in the work.

The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay occupied eleven days. To the

southward of the Trades, off the coast of Natal, a short but severe

gale from the south-west was encountered. The gale was followed by a

fresh breeze from the east, which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the

westward. In three days a distance of 797 miles was covered, with

winds from S.E. to N.E.

The 'Sunbeam' reached Port Elizabeth on October 12. The anchorage is

protected from all winds except those from the south-east. Port

Elizabeth from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton. On landing

it presents many cheerful indications of prosperity in its pier,

railway station, municipal buildings, streets and shops, and last, but

not least in the estimation of the traveller, its excellently

appointed and hospitable club. The residential quarter is happily

situated on elevated ground, swept by refreshing breezes from the

ocean. A large space is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns.

The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture. The arid and

sterile soil has been converted by liberal irrigation into a green

oasis, containing groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation.

Needless to say the work is the achievement of a Scotch gardener.

The prosperity of this active commercial centre is due to the trade

carried on with Kimberley, of which it is the port. The value of the

diamonds produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at

2,359,000_l._; 1884, 2,562,000_l._; 1885, 2,228,000_l._; and 1886,

3,261,000_l._ These amounts will be exceeded in later returns. As yet,

the price per carat shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining

for diamonds gives employment to a large amount of well-paid labour.

Some 2,000 white _employes_ are engaged at an average wage of 5_l._

9_s._ per week. Twelve thousand coloured men are working under their

direction, their earnings exceeding 1_l._ per week.

Port Elizabeth is the chief _entrepot_ for ostrich feathers. The value

of this article of export for 1886 was over half a million sterling.

The process of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most

singular business transactions at which it has been my lot to assist.

One of the buyers in attendance, on the occasion of our visit,

represents a London firm, and is said to be making an income of over

1,000_l._ per year. A spirited effort is being made to establish an

_entrepot_ for the Cape wines at Port Elizabeth. We visited the

extensive cellars under the public market, where a company has opened

a business, which it is intended to conduct in accordance with the

most approved methods of treatment in the wine-growing districts of

Europe.

A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing

before an easterly wind brought the 'Sunbeam' into Table Bay on the

morning of October 15, just in time to gain the anchorage before one

of the hard gales from the south-east, which are not unfrequently

experienced at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and the Cape the

distance covered was 1,047 knots under steam, and 5,622 knots under

sail. The average speed under steam and sail was exactly eight knots.

In the fortnight, October 13 to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average

speed of nine knots an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds

of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely used.

[Illustration: Off the Cape]

Table Mountain is admirably described by Huebner as a mighty buttress

confronting the restless billows of the Southern Ocean. It was

covered, on the morning of our arrival, with the graceful wreaths of

mist which have so often excited the admiration of travellers. A

strong south-east gale was blowing on the occasion. Table Mountain

presents to the dwellers in Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes

from hour to hour. Every veering of the wind brings some new yet ever

effective adjustment of a mantle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which

is sometimes silver, sometimes purple, and from time to time subdued

to a sombre tone by an approaching fall of rain.

In former years many and disastrous were the losses of life and

property in Table Bay. Gales from the N.W. and the NN.E. are frequent

in the winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury. In the old

sailing days ships caught at anchor in the bay by one of these

terrible storms were doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the

Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering of Sir John Coode, a

wide area of sheltered anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has

been extended to a length of 560 yards, and a further extension is far

advanced, which will give a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards.

A wet dock has been formed, capable of receiving the largest steamers

in the ocean mail service, and broad enough for an ironclad. The

principal dimensions are: length, 540 feet; breadth, 68 feet; depth,

26 feet. An outer harbour, 44 acres in extent, will be gradually

formed under the protection of the breakwater. When these works are

completed, Cape Town will afford advantages to shipping such as are

scarcely exceeded in any port of Great Britain.

Cape Town contains not a few buildings of which the inhabitants of an

older capital might justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble

structure. The admirably kept and beautifully situated Observatory,

the banks, the railway station, and the docks are all excellent. The

Botanical Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them from Government

House, would be an adornment to the finest capital in Europe.

Considerable as are the attractions of Cape Town, they are far

exceeded by the charm of its picturesque suburbs, extending for some

miles along the foot of Table Mountain on its eastern side. The

country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own dear English trees, and

abounds with pleasant buildings, surrounded with gardens bright with

the flowers of the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene recalls

the most favoured part of Surrey. The cantonments of the troops at

Wynberg, on a well-wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an

English park.

We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg and his kind family to

Constantia, where the Government have purchased an old Dutch

manor-house, and are cultivating the vine under the superintendence of

Baron Von Babo, with the view of producing wines on the most approved

European principles. Our host has made one of those interesting and

honourable careers for which colonial life offers so many

opportunities to those who know how to use them. He began life in the

gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of debates, in the days

of Cobden. As Premier of a Colonial Parliament, he has had an

opportunity of applying the maxims of political wisdom gathered from a

close observation of our own Parliamentary proceedings.

Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch, a characteristic example

of the old Dutch towns of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance

of Sir Gordon Sprigg, Mr. Hofmeyr, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial

Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied an hour by railway.

Stellenbosch is in many ways a perfect reproduction of a country town

in Holland. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic architecture,

the fine avenues running through the principal streets, and the Dutch

characteristics of the people. These features give to this distant

settlement in South Africa, not one of whose inhabitants probably has

ever visited Holland, a markedly national aspect.

On our arrival at Stellenbosch we were driven, under the guidance of

the Mayor, to the University, where a mixed staff of professors,

English and Dutch, are doing excellent work in education. We were

received by a guard of honour, furnished by the students' Volunteer

Corps. Having inspected the University buildings, we drove out to an

old Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a country in which

the foliage of the temperate and the tropical zones was closely

intermingled.

The farm we visited comprises an extensive range of buildings, with an

excellent dwelling-house, roomy stables, and the stores, filled with

butts of wine, which are characteristic of the district. The buildings

form a large quadrangle, surrounding a plot of grass shaded by noble

trees. The situation of the farm is very striking. It stands in a deep

valley, green, fertile, and well watered, but completely hemmed in by

mountains of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height, beautiful

in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation. Want of rain and the

phylloxera are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed that the

field labourers were invariably men of colour. Their earnings do not

exceed one shilling per day.

Cape politics have been a fertile source of trouble and anxiety to the

British Government at home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge

of local circumstances, it is impossible, from London, to deal in a

satisfactory manner with the relations between the Government of a

distant colony and neighbours so little known as the Boers, and

savages so rude as the Kaffirs and Zulus. Our errors of the past will

not be repeated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the

discretion of the local Governments, which, in pursuance of a wise

policy, we have called into existence.

[Illustration: St. Helena]

The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal, to President Brand,

of the Free State, was a prominent topic at the time of our visit. It

had led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in which he had

declared the determination of the Boers to preserve their complete

independence. In the Cape Colony people are more interested in the

establishment of railway communication with the new gold-fields

within the borders of the Transvaal than in the question of political

union. As yet a certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers to

establish railway communication with the Cape. An English company has

made a railway from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and the

line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In the meanwhile the people

of the Cape Colony are desirous of extending their system of railways,

already 1,483 miles in length, into the interior. Considerable

discoveries of gold have recently been made within the limits of the

Transvaal, but close to the border, and all the workers at the mines

are Englishmen from the Cape Colony. There is no reason to doubt that

permission to establish railway communication with this newly

discovered gold-mining district will be ultimately granted.

Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large number are friendly to the

English. Once connected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs

union, which has been much under discussion, the Cape Colony and the

Transvaal will be for all practical purposes of trade united. A

divided administration of government in a country of such wide extent

is an unmixed advantage.

It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr. Hofmeyr, the head of

the Dutch party in the Cape Parliament, and a most able representative

of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how entirely satisfied

his people are to live under British rule as now conducted. The Dutch

colonists at the Cape have no personal relations with Holland. They

look back upon their former connection as an interesting historical

association; but the protection which England affords against the

occupation of the Cape by some other foreign power is a practical

boon, and one greatly valued. There is a party at the Cape which

regards with disfavour the dependence of the present Premier, Sir

Gordon Sprigg, on the Dutch vote, or, as it is called, the Africander

Bond. From another point of view we may hail with satisfaction the

success which an Englishman has achieved in winning the confidence of

the Dutch. While conducting the government to their satisfaction, he

is thoroughly loyal to his own nationality. Baron Huebner speaks in

discouraging tones of our position at the Cape. A much more cheerful

impression was conveyed by the present able Governor, Sir Hercules

Robinson, and by other eminent men whom I had an opportunity of

consulting.

Judging from such indications as came under our personal notice, the

native races, so far from being a source of weakness, are a great

strength to the colony. The Indians in North America, the Maoris in

New Zealand, the aborigines of Australia, have disappeared or dwindled

away before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs have proved

themselves capable of adopting and promoting civilisation. They show

in numerous instances a high appreciation of the blessings of

education. They are ready to labour on the farms, on the railways, and

in the mines. They are content to live under the rule of a superior

race.

[Illustration: Longwood, St. Helena]

Material prosperity has been greatly advanced by the discoveries of

gold, the opening up of gold-fields, and still more by the large

amount of wealth which has been derived from the exportation of

diamonds.

The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on October 24th. St. Helena was reached

on November 3rd. Like all the islands of the Atlantic, it is of

volcanic formation. It presents to the ocean on every side a

coast-line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy chasms. The

contorted shapes of rock and mountain give a powerful impression of

the tremendous forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity. The

landing-place for St. Helena is under the lee of the island, at

Jamestown, a small town depending entirely on shipping.

Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the country is inexpressibly

sterile. At a higher level the soil is watered by the frequent showers

brought up from the ocean by the South-east Trades, and is covered

with a rich carpet of grass. In every sheltered dell the growth of

timber is abundant and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with

those of our cold English latitudes. The water-courses are

innumerable. The bed of every stream is filled, and every bank is

covered with lovely masses of arum-lilies. The scenery of the island

is most beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine country house

surrounded by a noble park. It is sad to visit Longwood, and to

reflect on the intolerable weariness of such a place of confinement to

the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter of the destinies of

Central Europe.

A personal visit to St. Helena is necessary to appreciate the

facilities for the defence of the island. The landing-places are few,

and they are commanded by works of considerable strength. New works

are in progress which will give an extended range of fire to seaward.

The guns are not yet to hand. The expenditure recently authorised,

amounting to some 10,000_l._, appears fully justified in view of the

importance of St. Helena as a coaling station for the Cape route to

the East. As a sanatorium it might be of great value to the ships of

the African Squadron.

The 'Sunbeam' touched at Ascension on November 7th. This barren and

inhospitable volcanic island has presented a singularly unpromising

field of labour to the naval detachment which for many years has been

maintained there. Solid and capacious stores, extensive ranges of

buildings, miles of roads, the tanks, the hospitals on the seashore

and on the mountain, the farm on the peak--a green oasis crowning a

heap of cinders--attest the zeal of a succession of officers and men.

To the naval reformer they give occasion for reflections on the

considerable cost which has been thrown upon the country in the

creation of an establishment which has become practically useless

through the universal use of steam and the suppression of the slave

trade. In the present circumstances St. Helena offers unquestionably

superior advantages for all naval purposes. As a coaling station it is

in a better position, being approximately equidistant between the Cape

and Sierra Leone, and less exposed to rollers, which frequently

interrupt the coaling of ships at Ascension. It is repugnant to

abandon to utter ruin an establishment created with much labour and

expense. To this alternative, however, we must come, unless we are

prepared to put Ascension in a state of defence. The value of the

naval stores is not less than 50,000_l._, and the ample stock of coal

would offer an irresistible temptation to an enemy's cruiser. Three or

four long-range, armour-piercing guns, with a few machine-guns, would

give security against a _coup de main_. We should look to the fleet to

prevent an attack in force.

[Illustration: Ascension. Green Mountain]

Sierra Leone was reached on November 14th. In this section of the

voyage the distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed

7.7 knots, and the distance under steam 289 knots, with an average

speed of 7 knots. The South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas

again proved extremely serviceable.

Sierra Leone is an important coaling station, halfway between England

and the Cape. The harbour is large and safe for ships of heavy

tonnage. The works of defence are in active progress. The cost is

estimated at 22,000_l._ for works and 15,000_l._ for armaments. It is

to be regretted that the armament is almost entirely composed of

muzzle-loading rifled guns. In addition to the works now in hand, a

battery is thought desirable to prevent an attack with long-range guns

from seaward. Having admitted Sierra Leone into the list of our

coaling stations of the first class, its defence should be made

complete against a powerful cruiser.

The British settlements on the West Coast of Africa date from 1672,

when the British African Company was first formed. The British

protectorate is estimated to extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown,

the capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen miles long.

The town is backed by mountains of considerable elevation, richly

wooded, and beautiful in outline. The streets are laid out with

regularity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The houses are of

wood, and the roadways are unpaved. The population is 37,000. The

throng at the landing-place has a decided family resemblance to any

similar assemblage of the negro race in the West Indies. The general

aspect is cheerful and free from care. The washerwomen, in Manchester

print gowns of gorgeous colour, are conspicuous and grotesque

personages.

At Sierra Leone the Church of England is strongly supported by the

Church Missionary Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is

the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated to the Durham

University, which has turned out coloured students of distinguished

ability. My friend Mr. Blyden, author of 'Christianity, Islam, and the

Negro Race,' is a distinguished leader of the higher culture among the

negro race.

The capabilities of the coloured races are nowhere seen to greater

advantage than at Sierra Leone. They supply the official staff of the

Government. A coloured barrister of marked ability is the leader of

the Bar, and makes a professional income of 3,000_l._ a year.

[Illustration: Sierra Leone]

The day seems drawing near when it will be no longer necessary to

send Englishmen to administer the government in a climate so often

fatal to the health of the European. The trade of Sierra Leone, in

common with that of the Gold Coast generally, consists mainly in the

exportation of the palm kernel, from which an oil much used in the

manufacture of soap and candles is extracted. Marseilles and Hamburg

are the chief centres of this business. The imports are mainly

Manchester goods and spirits. The trade has fallen off in recent years

owing to the constant warfare among the tribes bordering on the

colony.

The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra Leone at the time of our

visit. An expedition was being sent to punish a neighbouring tribe for

frequent deeds of violence to British subjects. It achieved a rapid

success. The forces engaged consisted of the men of the West India

regiment and some seamen of the ships. Sir Francis de Winton was in

command, supported by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra Leone is

the headquarters of the West India regiment stationed on the West

Coast of Africa. Their number is 400. The barracks are a large and

airy range of buildings, in a commanding situation on the heights

above the town.

We breakfasted with the Acting Governor. An old fort has been adapted

as the official residence. Its thick walls, originally built as a

defence against the bullets of an enemy, give some protection from the

heat of the African sun. The wide ramparts afford a shady walk,

commanding lovely views of the town and harbour beneath, and the noble

amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra Leone would be delightful but

for its climate and the fevers which it brings.

The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on November 15th under

steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg. N. A call

of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on November 19th. The French

frigate of instruction for cadets, the 'Iphigenie,' a heavily rigged

ship of 4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the previous day.

Porto Praya wears the air of decay so commonly observable in foreign

settlements under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile, but

progress is checked by the great weight of taxation, the public income

being misapplied in keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idleness.

We noticed a considerable number of able-bodied men hoeing weeds in

the public square.

We found three kind Englishmen leading a life of exile, in charge of

the station of the West African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent, the

only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any trade, is a coaling

station much used by steamers on the South American route.

On the day after leaving Porto Praya the 'Sunbeam' lay becalmed under

the lee of St. Antonio. The anchorage used by us in 1876 was in view,

as was also the house and plantation of which a drawing is given in

my dear wife's 'Voyage in the Sunbeam.' There were many sad

reminiscences as the former track of the 'Sunbeam' was crossed. On

November 29th, without warning from the barometer, a strong gale

commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission for four

days. Under low canvas and close-hauled, the 'Sunbeam' gallantly

struggled forward, making 130 knots, on November 29th, and on the

three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively. While hove-to

in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails

were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm trysails. Two

large barques were passed lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen

storm staysails. At dawn on December 2nd Fayal was sighted.

[Illustration: Barque Hove-to]

The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta, and it was preferable to

run for shelter under the lee of the island. As we closed the land,

grand effects were produced by the clouds and mist driving before the

gale down the green slopes of the mountains to the dark cliffs of lava

and basalt, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic were breaking

into foam. Late in the afternoon of December 2nd the 'Sunbeam' gained

the northern entrance to the channel which divides Fayal and Pico. An

attempt was made to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea was

running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy night, and we determined

to wait outside till daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for

shelter from the wind and sea.

At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining on the northern face of

the noble mountain, towering in solitary grandeur to a height of 7,800

feet. The snowy peak stood up from its mantle of clouds, and took the

rosy hues of the morning. An hour's steaming carried us into the

anchorage at Fayal, where we remained through the day of December 3rd.

The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished, with

adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2

days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6.3

knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of 6 knots.

[Illustration: Pico]

We found several sailing vessels at anchor in the roadstead of Horta.

One British vessel had come in for provisions, another to repair a

damaged rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one of a line which

carries on a regular service under canvas between the Azores and

America. They depend chiefly on passengers, who make the cruise for

the sake of health. The Norwegian flag was represented by one most

crazy wooden ship, 70 years old, and by another of nearly equal

antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthiness. The captains of

both the Norwegians were hoping that the surveyors might condemn them

as unfit for further service.

[Illustration: Bearing up for Shelter]

Fayal offers especially favourable opportunities for the obsequies of

an unseaworthy ship insured beyond her value. The danger to life from

the attempt to navigate in vessels no longer fit to contend with storm

and tempest can only be removed by compelling the owners to bear some

share of the pecuniary risk.

The local prosperity depends mainly on shipping. Business is on the

decline. The opening of the Suez Canal, the introduction of powerful

iron and steel built ocean liners, which suffer comparatively little

from the effects of heavy weather, and, as the people of Fayal allege,

the legislation promoted by Mr. Plimsoll, which has withdrawn their

best customers, the weakly and unsound vessels, from active service at

sea, have combined to produce a marked diminution in the number of

ships calling at the port. The whalers under the United States flag

still make it their headquarters in the summer season. During the

present year nine have been seen at the anchorage at the same time.

Exciting chases in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take place in

the channel between Fayal and Pico. Numerous whale-boats are kept on

the island, and are instantly launched when a whale is seen near the

shore. A breakwater is now in progress at Horta, but the work is

proceeding with the customary _festina lente_ method of the

Portuguese.

Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the

evening of December 3rd, with a favourable wind from the SS.E. At

midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, and on the

following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up, before a severe gale, for

shelter under the lee of Terceira. Late in the day the veil of

lowering clouds was drawn aside, and the sun descending to the west,

lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light.

Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest ridges attain an

elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests of the hills are clothed with

forests of pine and rich pastures. At a lower level the indications of

laborious cultivation are seen in range upon range of terraced gardens

and vineyards. The island is densely inhabited, and the numerous white

houses give an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the scene, which

recalls the more familiar charms of the Bay of Naples and the Straits

of Messina.

On December 5th, the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage homewards

was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, and

sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. On the succeeding

days favourable winds were experienced from the westward. On the 11th

the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by drizzling rain and

fog, which rendered observations impossible, and which continued until

the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate lifting of the

haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run from the Scilly Islands to

Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots an hour, before a

south-westerly gale.

The total distance from Fayal, including the call at Terceira, was

1,440 miles, of which sixty only were under steam. The average speed

was 7 knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth Harbour at noon on

December 14.

PART II.

(A) _ABSTRACT OF LOG OF 'SUNBEAM,' PREPARED BY THOMAS ALLNUTT

BRASSEY._

(B) _OUTLINE OF VOYAGE, REPRINTED FROM 'THE TIMES' OF DECEMBER

15TH, 1887._

[Transcriber's Note: In order to keep the following tables to a

maximum width of 80 characters, some headings have been abbreviated

(e.g., Barometer is abbreviated to Bar.), and times in headings have

been rendered without periods or spaces. Within the tables, latitude

and longitude readings are rendered without spaces, and in the "Wind"

column, the word "Variable" is abbreviated to "Var." Sideways text

spanning several rows is marked with an asterisk, and is rendered

below the table. Lengthy text in the "Wind" column is marked with two

asterisks and rendered below the table.]

PORTSMOUTH to BOMBAY.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1886 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

Nov.

16 6 P.M. left

Portsmouth.

8 P.M. arrived

Cowes -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 12 -- --

17 9 A.M. left

Cowes. 10 A.M.

arrived

Southampton.

6 P.M. sailed

for Plymouth -- -- -- -- 52.6 -- -- 10 -- --

18 ... ... ... 30.12 -- 51 52 53.5 50.26N 2.43W 30 73 NW 5

19 8 A.M. arrived

Plymouth. 2 P.M.

sailed for

Gibraltar 30.27 -- 61 61 59 50.22N 4.08W -- 82 SW 3

to 4

20 8 A.M. rounded

Ushant 30.30 -- 59 59 58 48.18N 5.42W 126 23 SW 3

to 5

21 ... ... ... 30.35 -- 59.5 61 60.5 45.02N 8.22W 152 40 SW

1/2

S 2

22 NOON, Cape

Finisterre abeam 30.26 -- 58 61 61 42.56N 9.26W 23 207 ESE

23 ... ... ... 30.26 60 62 62 62.5 40.25N 10.07W 45 121 E by

N 3

to 4

24 ... ... ... 30.20 63 61 61 61.5 37.33N 9.28W -- 185 E 2

to 4

25 ... ... ... 30.08 67.5 62 61.5 60 36.26N 7.52W -- 115 ENE

26 3.30 P.M.

arrived

Gibraltar 29.98 65 59 60 60 35.52N 5.40W 36 111 E by

S 7

27 ... ... ... -- 63 61 61.5 61 -- -- 30 --

28 ... ... ... -- 62 61 62 61 -- -- -- -- --

29 11 A.M. sailed

from Gibraltar

for Port Said -- 61.5 61.5 62 62 -- -- -- -- --

30 ... ... ... 30.09 61.5 61.5 61.5 62 36.20N 2.27W 90 86 W 4.

Calm

Dec.

1 ... ... ... 29.98 63.5 60 55 57 36.54N 1.04E -- 185 NNW

NNE

6 to

2 Called off

Algiers 30.00 62.5 57 55 58 36.50N 3.11E 48 74 Var.

3 ... ... ... 29.97 63 60 55 61 37.27N 6.23E -- 158 SW

to N

3 to

4 ... ... ... 29.91 65 57 53 55 37.35N 9.59E -- 179 NW

NNW

3 to

5 ... ... ... 29.97 65.5 60.5 61 60 36.15N 14.25E -- 240 NW 5

to 9

6 2 P.M. called

off Malta 30.11 66 61 66 64 36.35N 17.07E -- 155 S to

WNW

3 to

7 ... ... ... 30.13 68 62 67 65 34.33N 20.14E 147 16 Calm

8 Heavy rain. No

observations 29.90 68.5 67 66 64 33.19N 23.57E 198 -- Calm

9 ... ... ... 29.66 71 65 66.5 65 32.46N 28.14E -- 222 SW

to W

6 to

10 NOON, anchored

Port Said 30.05 70 64 66 62 31.18N 32.21E 4 238 W to

WNW

6 to

11 8 A.M. left Port

Said. 8 P.M.

anchored off

Ismailia -- 65 56 64 60 -- -- 24 -- --

12 6.15 A.M. weighed

anchor. 3 P.M.

reached Suez.

5 P.M. sailed for

Aden -- 63 54.5 70 63 -- -- 66 -- --

13 ... ... ... 30.07 72 64 71 69 27.42N 33.57E 18 168 NNW

SW 4

14 ... ... ... 30.18 75 68 72 72 24.53N 35.57E -- 212 W to

NW 3

to 6

15 ... ... ... 30.15 78 73 75 75.5 22.31N 37.38E -- 169 N to

NNW

2 to

16 ... ... ... 30.15 81 77 79.5 79 20.18N 38.32E -- 209 N to

NNW

17 ... ... ... 30.08 81.5 80 82.5 82 17.04N 40.37E 183 13 Calm

18 ... ... ... 29.98 80 80 81.5 81 14.36N 42.35E 188 -- S

1/2

E 3

19 4 P.M. Anchored

in Assab Bay 30.05 79 79 80 79.5 13.14N 42.37E 114 -- SE

to S

by E

5 to

20 6.30 A.M. weighed

anchor. 9 P.M.

passed through

Strait of

Bab-el-Mandeb 30.00 78.5 78 79.5 79 13.09N 43.07E 50 -- SSE

21 ... ... ... 30.09 78 78.5 80 79 11.59N 44.07E 111 16 E to

S by

E 5

22 10 A.M. anchored

in Aden inner

harbour. Coaled,

and sailed at 7

P.M. 30.18 79 80 83 80 12.46N 44.59E 69 68 E by

N 4

23 ... ... ... 30.08 78.5 79 81.5 79.5 12.52N 46.44E 110 -- E 3

to 5

24 ... ... ... 30.18 78 78 80 78.5 13.53N 49.09E 168 -- ENE

25 ... ... ... 30.15 75.5 75 76 76 14.49N 51.50E 178 -- ENE

3 to

26 ... ... ... 30.16 77.5 75 76 75 15.19N 53.43E 162 -- NE

by E

27 ... ... ... 30.21 78 74 76 75 15.41N 55.02E 68 86 NNE

to E

by N

28 ... ... ... 30.11 78 75 76 75 14.50N 57.27E -- 149 NE 6

29 ... ... ... 30.02 77 75 76 75 14.09N 59.36E -- 133 NNE

30 ... ... ... 30.08 78 75 77 76 13.41N 62.11E 16 146 NE

NNE

31 ... ... ... 30.07 78.5 75 77 76 15.01N 65.02E 190 -- NE 2

1887

Jan.

1 ... ... ... 30.08 78.5 75 77 76 16.22N 68.03E 192 -- NE 1

2 ... ... ... 30.08 80 75.5 80 77.5 17.49N 71.08E 173 28 NNE

to N

by W

3 4 A.M. made the

Prongs Light.

Lay-to until

daylight.

3 P.M. arrived

Bombay -- 78.5 76 77.5 76.5 -- -- 1 139 N to

NNE

BOMBAY to KURRACHI, RANGOON, BORNEO, and MACASSAR.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1887 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

Jan.

6 2 A.M. left

Bombay 30.05 78.5 76 79 76.5 19.26N 71.55E 47 22 NNE

7 ... ... ... 30.04 76.5 73.5 76 73.5 20.46N 70.16E -- 135 NE

by E

NW 3

to 5

8 Off Poubundu,

Kattywar 30.08 75 71 75 73 21.34N 69.30E -- 115 N to

NNE

1 to

9 ... ... ... 30.08 74.5 73 76 73 23.06N 67.43E 96 54 NW

to W

by S

1 to

10 6.10 A.M. arrived

Kurrachi -- 70 67 69 67.5 -- -- 132 -- SW

to E

4 to

From January

10th to February

7th at Kurrachi -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

Feb.

7 6 P.M. left

Kurrachi -- 65 65 65 65 -- -- -- -- --

8 ... ... ... 30.18 70 65 69 66 22.20N 67.55E -- 168 W to

by E

4 to

9 9 P.M. made Spit

Light Bombay.

Hove-to 30.11 74.5 68 71 70 19.48N 71.22E -- 268 NE 4

to 7

10 3 P.M. arrived

Bombay -- 74 70 73.5 73 -- -- -- 115 NE

by N

to N

by E

11 ... ... ... -- 72 67 74 73 -- -- -- 10 --

From February

11th to

February 22nd

at Bombay -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

22 6.45 A.M. left

Bombay.

11 P.M. lay-to

off Rajpuri -- 77 79 81 79.5 -- -- -- 20 --

23 8 A.M. anchored

off Jinjeera

Fort. 1 P.M.

weighed anchor 29.93 79 80 83 81 18.17N 72.55E -- 87 NW

NNE

1 to

24 ... ... ... 30.00 80.5 80 81 81 17.35N 73.00E -- 50 NW

Calm

25 8 P.M. brought

up in Aguada

Roads 30.00 82 80 82 81 16.09N 73.21E -- 85 NNW

NNE

1 to

26 To Goa in steam

launch. 8 P.M.

weighed anchor -- 82.5 81 83 81.5 -- -- -- 57 NNW

27 ... ... ... 29.96 83 82 83.5 82.5 13.39N 73.41E -- 115 WNW

NNW

28 ... ... ... 29.97 83 83 84.5 82.5 12.55N 74.28E -- 75 S 2

to N

Mar.

1 ... ... ... 29.98 83.5 83 86 82.5 11.33N 75.13E -- 95 Var.

2 ... ... ... 30.02 83.5 83.5 85 82 9.59N 76.00E -- 106 NNW

WNW

1 to

3 ... ... ... 30.12 83 82 84 82.5 8.13N 76.48E -- 120 W by

S 4

NW 1

4 ... ... ... 30.05 81.5 81.5 83.5 82 7.38N 76.08E -- 88 NW.

Calm

5 9 A.M. arrived

Colombo 30.00 82 80.5 83 80 6.56N 79.50E 98 12 Calm

From March 5th

to March 8th at

Colombo -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

8 1.15 A.M. left

Colombo 30.02 82.5 80 81.5 81 5.56N 80.25E 86 -- Var.

9 7.30 P.M.

anchored off

Trincomalee

dockyard 30.09 82 80.5 82 81.5 7.50N 81.44E 184 -- "

10 8.15 P.M. left

Trincomalee -- 82 80.5 83 81 -- -- 60 -- --

11 ... ... ... 30.05 81.5 80 83.5 82 9.45N 83.04E 140 -- Calm

12 ... ... ... 30.07 81.5 81 83 81.5 10.50N 86.00E 184 -- ENE

13 ... ... ... 30.07 82 81.5 83.5 81.5 12.17N 88.55E 195 -- ENE

14 4 P.M. made the

Andamans 30.05 81.5 79 80 79 13.28N 91.49E 170 10 Calm.

N by

W 3

15 8 A.M. made Great

Coco 30.05 81.5 79 79.5 79 14.06N 93.29E -- 120 NNW

16 MIDNIGHT anchored

at mouth of

Irrawaddy River 30.01 82 80 83 81 15.28N 95.40E -- 150 NNW

to W

by N

1 to

17 6 A.M. weighed

anchor. 10.30

anchored at

Rangoon 29.95 83 84 89 86 16.45N 96.09E 40 60 --

18 11.30 P.M. left

Rangoon -- 83.5 83 87 88 -- -- -- -- --

19 1.30 P.M.

anchored off

Amherst -- 81 81 84 82 -- -- 109 -- --

20 9 A.M. weighed.

1 P.M. anchored

off Moulmein -- * 80.5 87 82.5 -- -- 50 -- --

21 At Moulmein -- * 81 86 82.5 -- -- -- -- --

22 1.30 P.M. left

Moulmein. 5.30

P.M. passed out

of river -- * 80 82 81 -- -- -- -- --

23 ... ... ... 30.06 * 82 83 82 15.33N 97.13E 40 60 S by

E to

WSW

24 ... ... ... 30.05 * 82 84 84 14.32N 97.26E -- 101 SW

WSW

25 ... ... ... 30.02 * 82 85.5 83 11.41N 97.14E 130 40 Calm.

E 4

26 11 P.M. passed

Sayer's Islands 29.98 * 82 85 84 9.19N 97.01E -- 160 ENE

by E

3 to

27 6 A.M. made The

Brothers 29.95 * 83 84 83 7.05N 98.16E 139 11 SE 5

to N

28 2 A.M. made

Penang Light 29.92 * 84 84.5 83 5.01N 100.02E 170 -- S by

E 4

29 In Macassar

Strait 30.02 * 83 84 82 2.35N 101.28E 188 -- S by

30 8 A.M. arrived

Singapore -- * 82 84 83 -- -- 175 -- }

31 3 P.M. weighed. }

7 P.M. arrived }

Johore -- * 82 83 82 -- -- -- -- } **

Apr. }

1 11 A.M. weighed. }

3 P.M. anchored }

Singapore -- * 83 85 84 -- -- 74 -- }

2 2 A.M. left

Singapore. 6 P.M.

Barren Island

abeam 30.03 * 88 85 84.5 1.26N 105.36E 105 -- SW 2

3 10 P.M. anchored }

off Tanjong Po 30.05 * 83 85 84 2.04N 109.10E 225 -- }

4 6.30 A.M. }

weighed, and }

proceeded up }

Kuching River. }

10 A.M. anchored }

off Sarawak. 7 }

P.M. sailed -- * 83 83.5 83.5 -- -- 113 -- }

5 ... ... ... 29.97 * 83 84 83 3.48N 112.04E -- -- }

6 7 A.M. made }

land; set by } **

current 30 miles }

to ENE. 2 P.M. }

anchored }

Victoria }

Harbour, Labuan -- * 83 85 82 -- -- 230 -- }

7 7 A.M. weighed. }

9 A.M. anchored }

off mouth of }

Brunei River. }

5 P.M. weighed. -- * 83 84.5 83.5 -- -- 40 -- }

8 6 A.M. fine view

of Kina Balu,

13,000 ft.

4 P.M. anchored

Kudat 29.95 * 84 86 85 6.56N 116.34E 160 -- NE 2

9 6.30 A.M. left

Kudat. 4.30 P.M.

touched on coral

patch, 6 deg. 40'N.

117 deg. 52' E.

MIDNIGHT arrived In Millewalle

Sandakan -- * 82 85 82.5 Channel 87 -- SE 1

to 2

10 }

11 } At Sandakan -- * -- -- -- -- -- 100 -- Calm

12 }

12 9.30 P.M. left

Sandakan -- * 81 84 82 -- -- -- -- --

13 6 P.M. anchored

in Darvel Bay,

off Silam -- 82 85 83 83.5 4.57N 118.47E 135 -- }

14 At Silam -- -- 82.5 86 83 -- -- 54 -- }

15 8.45 A.M. left }

Silam. 9 P.M. }Calm

entered Celebes }

Sea -- -- 83 84 84 4.40N 118.34E 32 -- }

16 ... ... ... 29.95 -- 83 84.5 84 2.27N 119.30E 235 -- NW 2

17 7.15 A.M. crossed

the line 29.92 -- 86 87.5 86 0.51S 118.50E 207 -- }

18 8 A.M. off Cape }

Mandai. 11 P.M. }

hove-to off }

Spennar di }Calm

Archipelago 29.89 -- 84 87 85 4.14S -- 211 -- }

19 12.15 P.M. }

arrived Macassar -- -- 83 85.5 84 -- -- 144 -- }

* No temperature of water taken.

** Calms and light airs

MACASSAR to ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1887 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

Apr.

20 8 P.M. left

Macassar -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

21 ... ... ... 29.91 -- 84 85.5 85 6.00S 118.34E 63 23 N 3

to 5

22 4 P.M. entered

Allas Strait 29.87 -- 85 83 84 7.56S 116.56E -- 174 NW

to W

by S

3 to

23 ... ... ... 29.92 -- 81.5 81 80.5 9.52S 116.39E 66 62 W to

by W

3 to

24 ... ... ... 30.02 -- 80 80.5 80 11.52S 116.39E -- 127 S by

W to

W 3

to 5

25 6 P.M. slight

showers. Picked

up trade wind

from S by E 30.05 -- 80 80 80 13.59S 114.52E 158 8 Calm

26 ... ... ... 30.02 -- 79.5 81 80 15.24S 113.10E 36 104 SSE

27 ... ... ... 29.96 -- 78.5 78.5 78 16.56S 111.32E -- 131 SE

to S

by E

28 ... ... ... 30.01 -- 76.5 77 77 18.43S 109.24E -- 148 S to

by S

4 to

29 ... ... ... 30.03 -- 76 75 74.5 20.25S 107.31E -- 143 SSE

by S

3 to

30 ... ... ... 30.12 -- 72 73.5 72.5 22.27S 105.35E -- 162 S by

E to

SE 3

to 5

May

1 ... ... ... 30.18 -- 69 70.5 69 24.39S 104.14E -- 153 SE

by S

SE 4

to 6

2 ... ... ... 30.23 -- 67 68.5 68 26.46S 103.38E -- 131 SE

ESE

2 to

3 ... ... ... 30.19 -- 67 67 66.5 29.02S 103.02E -- 140 SE

by E

2 to

4 5 P.M. spoke

'Liguria' of

Orient Line 30.20 -- 64 65 64 30.22S 104.20E 86 40 Var.

5 Moderate gale

with heavy

squalls 30.10 -- 62 60 60 31.29S 105.48E -- 136 WSW

SSW

7 to

6 ... ... ... 30.10 -- 60 60.5 60 32.28S 108.06E -- 144 SW

SSW

7 to

7 ... ... ... 30.22 64 62 62.5 61 33.12S 110.30E 7 122 SW

Calm

8 ... ... ... 30.19 63.5 60 62 61 34.47S 113.54E 136 58 Calm.

W 5

9 10 A.M. made

West Point Howe.

4 P.M. arrived

Albany, K.G.

Sound 30.21 63 59 59 58 -- -- 33 181 W to

SW 4

to 5

9th to 17th at

Albany -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

17 11.15 A.M.

weighed anchor -- 61 59 66 64 -- -- 6 -- --

18 ... ... ... 30.03 61 63.5 66 64 35.38S 119.54E 10 100 E by

N to

NNW

19 ... ... ... 30.10 60.5 63 66.5 64 36.23S 122.10E -- 120 ENE

to N

by W

20 ... ... ... 30.18 60 63 67 64 36.25S 125.13E -- 148 NNW

NNE

21 ... ... ... 30.15 60 58 63 59 35.59S 127.56E -- 135 W to

NW 2

to 4

22 1 to 3 P.M.

blowing heavily 30.12 61 63 66 63.5 35.55S 132.07E -- 206 WSW

WNW

5 to

23 7 A.M. made

Kangaroo Island.

7.30 P.M.

hove-to off

Glenelg 30.19 63 62 64.5 61.5 35.30S 137.10E -- 265 W to

WSW

8 to

24 7.30 A.M.

anchored off

Glenelg -- 61 56 63 60 -- -- -- 95 --

ADELAIDE to MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, and PORT DARWIN.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1887 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

May

26 11 A.M. left

Glenelg. 3 P.M.

arrived Port

Adelaide -- 60 59 64 61 -- -- 23 -- --

May 26th to June

3rd at Adelaide -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

June

3 7 A.M. left Port

Adelaide -- 60 52 50 50 -- -- 14 8 --

4 2 A.M. laid to.

9.30 A.M.

rounded Cape

Willoughby 29.94 59 48 49 48 36.06S 138.23E -- 103 SSW

to W

by N

4 to

5 MIDNIGHT, made

Cape Otway

light 29.84 57 47.5 47 47 38.57S 140.55E -- 200 S by

W to

W by

S 4

to 8

6 Heavy gale. 3

P.M. arrived

Williamstown 29.63 56.5 40 44 45 38.08S 144.48E -- 225 NW

by W

SW 7

to 9

7th to 29th at

Melbourne -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 29 --

[Transcriber's Note: "29" above probably should be a dash]

29 9 A.M. left

Williamstown -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

30 9.30 A.M.

rounded Wilson's

Promontory 30.20 -- -- 55 -- 39.03S 146.42E -- 145 NE

by N

July

1 5 P.M. rounded

Cape Howe 30.00 -- -- 59 -- 37.50S 149.31E 143 10 NE

2 ... ... ... 30.05 -- -- 59 -- 35.35S 150.30E 142 8 NNE

by N

3 10 A.M. arrived

Sydney -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 7 113 NW

by W

WSW

July 3rd to 18th

at Sydney -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

18 5 P.M. left

Sydney -- 5 59.5 66 63.5 -- -- -- -- --

[Transcriber's Note: In Water column above, beginning of number is

missing in original.]

19 7 A.M. arrived

Newcastle -- -- 58 70 60 -- -- 4 65 West

[Transcriber's Note: In Air 8 A.M. column above, number or dash is

missing in original.]

20 7.30 A.M. left

Newcastle -- -- -- -- -- 32.43S 152.19E -- 25 NW 3

21 ... ... ... 30.02 -- -- 64 -- 30.25S 153.12E -- 150 WNW

WSW

2 to

22 ... ... ... 29.95 -- -- 64 -- 29.08S 153.39E -- 79 Var.

23 2.15 P.M.

rounded Cape

Moreton. 10 P.M.

arrived Brisbane -- -- -- -- -- 27.26S 153.35E -- 133 NNW

to W

4 to

24 ... ... ... -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 62 18 --

24th to 28th at

Brisbane. 28th,

1.30 P.M. left

Brisbane -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

29 6 A.M. off

Indian Head -- 65 64 71.5 64.5 24.23S 153.24E 20 184 SE

ESE

30 7.15 A.M.

anchored at Sea

View. 3 P.M.

proceeded. 9

P.M. arrived

Rockhampton -- 66 61 72 64 -- -- 12 138 --

31 ... ... ... -- 65 63 73 64.5 -- -- 46 -- --

July 31st to

Aug. 4th at

Rockhampton -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

Aug.

4 10 P.M. left

Rockhampton -- 66 65 72.5 64 -- -- -- -- --

5 2 A.M. anchored

Johnson Point. 8

A.M. proceeded.

10 A.M. cleared

river -- 66 58 63 60 -- -- 43 -- --

6 6 P.M. anchored

off Glo'ster

Island 30.22 67 63 70 64.5 20.42S 149.05E -- 214 SE

SSE

7 9 A.M. weighed.

2 P.M. arrived

Bowen -- 67.5 64 71 66 -- -- -- 67 SSE

4 to

8 6 A.M. left

Bowen. Anchored

in Cleveland

Bay 30.25 68 64 70 66 19.30S 147.41E -- 60 SSE

9 2 P.M. left

Townsville. 6

P.M. anchored

near Palm

Islands -- 68.5 65 72 67 -- -- -- 64 SE

10 10 A.M. weighed

anchor. 4 P.M.

anchored off

Dungeness.

Hinchinbrook

Channel 30.17 69 69 70 70 18.42S 146.30E -- 42 SE 4

11 At Dungeness.

Rain 30.15 69.5 70 72 70 18.30S 146.20E -- 22 SE 3

12 10 A.M. left

Dungeness. NOON,

anchored

Cardwell. 3 P.M.

proceeded. 7,

reached

Mourilyan -- 70 70 72 70 18.14S 146.05E 24 -- Calm

13 8 P.M. left

Mourilyan -- 71 71 75 72 17.35S 146.08E 41 -- Calm

14 ... ... ... 30.07 72.5 72 76 72.5 16.37S 145.47E 4 67 Var.

15 8 A.M. arrived

Cooktown -- 73 72.5 75 73.5 15.28S 145.17E 3 74 Var.

16 At Cooktown -- 73 72 77 74 -- -- -- -- --

17 8 A.M. left

Cooktown. 4.30

P.M. anchored

under lee of

Howick Islands -- 72.5 74 77 74 14.52S 145.30E 4 38 SE 4

18 6 A.M. weighed.

7 P.M. anchored

near Cape

Sidmouth

lightship 30.12 72 74 76 73.5 14.07S 144.17E -- 97 SE 4

to 5

19 10 A.M. weighed.

8.30 P.M.

anchored under

Piper Islands 30.10 72.5 74.5 77 75 13.21S 143.40E -- 75 SE 5

20 6 A.M. weighed.

6 P.M. moored in

Albany Pass 30.06 72.5 76 77.5 76 11.31S 142.55E -- 130 ESE

21 In Albany Pass.

Strong tides 30.05 75 76 77 76.5 10.41S 142.35E -- 53 SE 5

22 10 A.M. weighed.

4 P.M. arrived

Thursday Island 30.02 75 76.5 77.5 77 10.33S 142.25E -- 16 SE 5

23 ... ... ... 30.05 75 77 78 77.5 -- -- 7 17 SE 5

24 Steamed to Goode

Island and back -- 75.5 77 79 77.5 -- -- 8 -- SE 5

25 6 A.M. left

Thursday Island.

6 P.M. anchored

off York Island 29.95 75.5 77 79 79.5 10.13S 142.41E 13 24 SE 5

26 6 A.M. weighed.

11 A.M. anchored

at Darnley

Island 29.98 76.5 78.5 80 79.5 9.36S 143.44E 83 -- SE 5

27 8 A.M. left

Darnley Island.

7 P.M. anchored

under King

Point, Howe

Island 29.98 77 78.5 81 79 9.50S 143.09E -- 40 SE

by E

28 Dropped down to

Thursday Island

under jib -- 76 78 80 78 -- -- -- 74 SE

by E

5 to

Aug. 28 to Sept.

1st at Thursday

Island -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

Sept.

1 6 P.M. left

Thursday Island -- 75.5 76.5 79 77 -- -- -- -- --

2 ... ... ... 30.05 77.5 77 79 77.5 10.36S 139.46E -- 150 ESE

3 ... ... ... 30.00 77.5 77.5 80 78 10.40S 136.11E -- 215 SSE

3 to

4 ... ... ... 29.90 77.5 78 80 78 10.43S 134.19E -- 112 SE

by E

to E

1 to

5 6 A.M. made

land. 7 P.M.

passed through

Clarence Strait 30.00 78 78 80.5 79.5 11.27S 131.39E 181 -- Calm

6 2 A.M. hove to.

7.30 A.M.

anchored

Palmerston, Port

Darwin 30.05 81 79 82 80 -- -- 92 -- Calm

PORT DARWIN to MAURITIUS and CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1887 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

Sept.

7 2 A.M. left Port

Darwin 30.02 79 81.5 83 82 12.27S 129.46E 72 -- Calm

8 ... ... ... 30.07 78.5 81 81 80.5 12.56S 126.30E 200 -- Calm

9 ... ... ... 30.06 79 78.5 80 79 13.07S 124.31E 68 54 E 1

SE 3

10 ... ... ... 29.95 79 79 80.5 79.5 13.17S 121.03E 208 -- S to

SE 1

to 2

11 ... ... ... 29.98 79 78 80 79 13.39S 118.53E 51 76 SSE

1 to

12 ... ... ... 30.05 79 78 80 79 14.11S 116.47E -- 128 SSE

SE 2

to 3

13 ... ... ... 30.07 79 77.5 79 78 15.17S 114.28E -- 150 SSE

ESE

1 to

14 + Lady Brassey

died 11 A.M.,

committed to the

deep at sunset,

lat. 15.50S,

long. 110.38E -- 77 76.5 76 75.5 15.45S 111.39E -- 168 S by

E to

SE 2

to 4

15 ... ... ... 30.05 76 74.5 74 74 16.14S 107.38E -- 242 SSE

4 to

16 ... ... ... 30.10 74 74 73.5 73.5 16.40S 104.15E -- 198 SE

by S

3 to

17 ... ... ... 30.10 73.5 73 73 73 16.58S 100.36E -- 208 SE 3

to 5

18 ... ... ... 30.12 73 72 72.5 72 17.16S 96.45E -- 222 SE 3

to 5

19 ... ... ... 30.15 72.5 71 71 71 17.24S 91.53E -- 273 SE

by S

5 to

20 ... ... ... 30.11 72.5 72 72 71.5 18.17S 88.02E -- 226 SE 6

to 3

21 ... ... ... 30.14 73 71.5 72 71.5 18.28S 84.57E -- 177 SE 2

to 4

22 ... ... ... 30.12 72.5 72 72 71.5 18.37S 80.19E -- 276 SE 4

to 6

23 ... ... ... 30.24 72 71.5 72 71.5 19.21S 76.45E -- 207 SE

to E

5 to

24 ... ... ... 30.22 72.5 71 72 71.5 19.21S 72.45E -- 227 SE 4

25 ... ... ... 30.17 73 71 72 72 19.23S 69.07E -- 206 SE 4

26 4 P.M. made

Rodriguez 30.15 74 72 72.5 72 19.18S 64.52E -- 241 SE

by S

4 to

27 ... ... ... 30.22 73 72.5 73 72.5 19.38S 61.11E -- 210 SE

by S

to E

by S

6 to

28 4 P.M. made

Round Island 30.22 73.5 73 74.5 74 19.53S 58.45E -- 133 E to

E by

N 3

to 2

29 12.30 A.M.

anchored off

Port Louis -- 73.5 73.5 75 74 -- -- 71 8 Calm

30 At Mauritius -- 73 74 75 74 -- -- -- -- --

Oct.

1 1 P.M. left Port

Louis -- 73 73.5 74 73.5 -- -- -- -- --

2 In sight of

Bourbon all day 30.22 72 74 76 74.5 22.00S 55.39E -- 155 SE

by E

to E

by N

5 to

3 NOON, Bourbon

still visible 30.30 72 70 72.5 72 22.28S 54.14E -- 83 SE 1

var.

4 ... ... ... 30.40 72 70.5 72 71 24.22S 49.58E -- 266 SSE

by E

5 to

5 ... ... ... 30.40 71.5 69.5 71 70.5 27.02S 45.39E -- 282 SE

to E

5 to

6 ... ... ... 30.28 67.5 69.5 72 71 28.49S 41.27E -- 247 ESE

to E

6 to

7 ... ... ... 30.20 78.5 70.5 71 70 29.41S 38.39E 138 19 E by

N 2

to 1

8 Brisk gale.

MIDNIGHT, wind

fell light 29.96 69.5 69.5 71 70 30.12S 34.18E 96 131 E 2

NNE

9 Hard gale from

SW. Nasty sea.

MIDNIGHT, gale

moderated 29.75 71 71 72.5 72 31.44S 31.17E -- 183 NE

by E

8 to

10 5 A.M. made land

at Gordon Bay 30.10 71 64 68 66 32.17S 29.13E 24 88 SW

by S

9 to

E 1

11 Beating to

windward under

steam and sail.

10 P.M. made

Cape Recife

light 29.90 63 65 67 63 33.57S 26.39E 33 120 E by

N 9

W by

S 7

12 2.30 A.M.

anchored Algoa

Bay 30.36 62 63 65 64 -- -- 56 -- --

13 6 A.M. left

Algoa Bay 30.40 62 63 64.5 63.5 34.14S 25.20E 11 24 SE

by E

14 2 P.M. rounded

Cape Agulhas.

10.30 P.M. made

Cape of Good

Hope light 30.10 64 64 64 64 35.50S 20.18E -- 260 SE

by E

6 to

15 8 A.M. anchored

Table Bay -- 56 63 64 65 -- -- 19 134 SSE

N.B.--On this passage the 'Sunbeam' made the fastest long run

she has ever made. In the fortnight Sept. 13 to 27 she did

3,073 knots.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE to PORTSMOUTH.

Date Remarks Bar. Temp. (Fahr.) Lat. Long. Distance Wind

Water Air Steam Sail

8AM 8AM noon 6PM

1887 deg. deg. deg. deg. deg. ' deg. '

Oct.

24 10.30 A.M.

weighed and

proceeded to

sea. NOON,

returned 30.15 55 55 56.5 56 -- -- -- 5 W by

N 7

25 7 P.M. left Cape

Town. MIDNIGHT,

off Robben Island

under steam. 5

P.M. ceased

steaming 30.40 60 56.5 58 57.5 33.10S 17.12E 72 3 Calm

26 ... ... ... 30.20 61 62 63.5 63 30.49S 13.34E 40 193 S by

N to

S 2

to 7

27 ... ... ... 30.21 60.5 59 60.5 60 27.55S 10.22E -- 243 6 to

28 ... ... ... 30.23 61.5 61 61.5 61 25.38S 7.08E -- 223 S to

S by

E 6

29 'Roslin Castle'

passed 'Sunbeam,'

homeward bound 30.24 63.5 60.5 63 62.5 24.09S 3.39E -- 209 SE

SSE

30 'Norham Castle'

passed 'Sunbeam,'

outward bound 30.25 63.5 62 64.5 63.5 22.06S 2.02E -- 152 SE 4

by S

31 ... ... ... 30.23 64.5 64 66 64.5 19.46S 0.03W -- 182 SE 5

to 2

Nov.

1 ... ... ... 30.20 65.5 65 66 65 17.48S 1.32W -- 146 SE 3

to 2

2 ... ... ... 30.17 67.5 65 66.5 66 16.18S 3.25W -- 140 SE

by S

by E

2 to

3 3 A.M. made St.

Helena. 9 A.M.

anchored off

James Town.

10.30 P.M. left

St. Helena 30.14 68 66 69 66.5 -- -- -- 140 S by

E 4

to 2

4 1 A.M. ceased

steaming 30.13 69 68 69 69 14.26S 7.03W 17 97 ESE

5 to

5 ... ... ... 30.13 71 70 71 70.5 12.11S 9.15W -- 186 SE 3

to 4

6 ... ... ... 30.17 73 73 74.5 74 9.59S 11.06W -- 171 SE 4

to 2

7 4 P.M. made

Ascension. 10

P.M. hove to 30.02 74.5 73.5 75 75.5 8.33S 13.33W -- 169 SE

SSE

2 to

[Transcriber's Note: In Wind column, final number missing in original]

8 7 A.M. anchored

Clarence Bay 30.04 76.5 76.5 78 77 -- -- -- 68 SE 3

9 5 P.M. left

Ascension 30.00 77 76.5 65 77 4.44S 14.53W -- 200 SE 6

[7] to 5

10 1 A.M. passed

H.M.S. 'Wye' 30.00 77 77 78 77.5 -- -- -- -- --

11 ... ... ... 30.00 78 78 79.5 79.5 .58S 14.30W -- 227 SE

SSE

6 to

12 ... ... ... 30.00 80.5 79 80 79.5 2.16N 13.54W -- 196 SE

by E

3 to

13 11 P.M.

commenced

steaming 30.00 82.5 81 81 82 5.21N 13.47W -- 185 SE

by S

3 to

14 3 P.M. made

hills about

Sierra Leone. 9

P.M. anchored at

Free Town 30.00 81.5 80.5 81.5 82 7.57N 14.00W 104 52 ESE

Calm

15 6 P.M. left

Sierra Leone 30.00 82 81 82.5 81.5 -- -- 56 -- Calm

16 ... ... ... 30.00 83 82.5 83.5 83 9.35N 14.57W 120 -- NNE

17 8 A.M. heavy

rain-squall

with wind. 12.45

P.M. ceased

steaming 30.04 81.5 81 82 81.5 11.04N 17.06W 182 -- NNE

[8] 1 to

18 ... ... ... 30.02 80 81 81.5 80.5 12.30N 20.34W -- 205 NE

by N

6 to

19 NOON, arrived

Porto Praya. 6

P.M. proceeded 30.05 78.5 79 80 79 14.55N 23.25W -- 240 NE

by N

6 to

20 1 A.M. to 2.30

A.M. under

steam. Passed to

leeward of St.

Vincent, &c. 30.05 78 77.5 78.5 78 16.25N 24.55W 15 130 NE

by E

21 Sighted two

ships and a

barque bound

south 30.10 78 77 77 76 19.14N 25.42W 15 160 E by

[8] N 6

19.01N to 7

22 Passed numerous

sailing ships 30.12 77 74.5 74 73.5 22.37N 25.54W -- 203 E

[8] 1/2

22.20N N 7

to 5

23 6 A.M. commenced

steaming. 10

A.M. stopped to

repair boiler

tubes. NOON,

proceeded 30.05 76.5 73 74 73 24.05N 27.04W 23 100 NE 4

to 1

24 7 A.M. ceased

steaming. Heavy

swell from NNE 30.05 75 69.5 70.5 70 26.13N 28.03W 81 34 NNE

[8] to

25.58N NE

25 ... ... ... 30.20 73 70 71.5 70 27.30N 30.50W -- 175 N by

E to

by N

26 ... ... ... 30.29 72 68.5 69 67.5 29.40N 32.14W -- 151 NE 3

to 5

27 Finally lost NE

trade 30.25 72 68 69 68 30.55N 31.58W -- 85 Var.

28 ... ... ... 30.13 70 66.5 67.5 65.5 32.38N 31.39W -- 112 WNW

4 to

E 2

29 Moderate gale 30.15 68 63 64 62.5 34.54N 31.20W -- 130 E 3

to E

by S

30 Gale increasing.

Split mainsail,

mizen foresail,

and jib 30.33 67 61.5 62.5 62 36.43N 30.40W -- 112 ESE

8 to

Dec.

1 Gale moderating

towards night 30.17 64.5 62.5 63.5 63 37.35N 30.09W -- 57 SE

[8] [8] 8 to

2 Daybreak, made

Fayal. Worked up

under steam and

sail to Pico 30.10 64.5 62.5 65 63 38.42N 28.48W -- 92 S by

E 8

to 9

3 7 A.M. anchored

Horta Bay. 4.30

P.M. weighed 30.10 64.5 62 63.5 62.5 -- -- 37 -- S 3

to 4

4 2 A.M. wind flew

suddenly to NNE.

10 A.M. blowing

a gale. Bore up

for Terceira.

Hove to 30.03 64 60.5 60.5 59.5 -- -- 8 99 NE 5

5 10 A.M. commenced

steaming. 10 P.M.

ceased, boiler

having finally

given out 30.30 64 60 61 60 38.48N 27.22W 11 61 Calm.

E 3

6 ... ... ... 30.40 63 60 61 61 39.09N 25.15W 50 55 NE

ENE

7 ... ... ... 30.44 63 59 59.5 60 40.59N 23.30W -- 135 E to

S 3

8 ... ... ... 30.26 63.5 60 60 60 42.43N 20.00W -- 190 SW

to W

5 to

9 ... ... ... 30.10 58 58.5 60 58 45.08N 16.04W -- 217 W by

[8] S 7

44.53N to 8

10 3.30 A.M. wind

fell suddenly.

No observations 30.10 54 54.5 54 53 46.11N 13.24W -- 134 W by

S 8

11 Weather thick

with rain. No

observations -- 55 53 -- -- 47.09N 11.10W -- 109 SE 2

[8] [8] to 6

12 8 P.M. made

Bishop and St.

Agnes lights.

Position 35

miles to N of

reckoning -- -- -- -- -- 49.17N 7.18W -- 201 S by

[8] [8] E 6

SSW

13 Weather thick. 4

P.M. made stand

near St.

Catherine's. 8

P.M. anchored

close to the

Nab -- -- -- -- -- 50.13N 2.17W -- 230 SSW

[8] 7 to

14 Towed into

Portsmouth

Harbour -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 64 --

[Footnote 7: On Gum Mountain.]

[Footnote 8: By account.]

SUMMARY.

Steam Sail

Portsmouth to Bombay 3,040 miles 4,046 miles.

Bombay to Macassar 4,585 " 2,509 "

Macassar to Adelaide 601 " 3,256 "

Adelaide to Port Darwin 976 " 3,285 "

Port Darwin to Cape of Good Hope 1,047 " 5,622 "

Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth 831 " 6,668 "

------ ------

11,080 " 25,386 "

Total distance under steam and sail, 36,466 miles.

* * * * *

(B) _THE CRUISE OF THE 'SUNBEAM.'_

REPRINTED FROM THE 'TIMES' OF DECEMBER 15, 1887.

The 'Sunbeam' reached Portsmouth Harbour on Wednesday after her long

voyage of 36,000 nautical miles among the British Possessions in all

parts of the world. We are enabled to give the following short account

of this very interesting cruise.

For certain duties of the navy, such as protection of the revenue,

supervision of fisheries, the police of the Pacific, instruction in

pilotage, small vessels are required which will be thoroughly

seaworthy, capable under sail of taking full advantage of the winds,

and in calms making fair speed under steam with a low consumption of

fuel. It is believed that such a type is represented in the 'Sunbeam,'

and that her performances during an extended cruise recently completed

may be of interest in a naval point of view.

The principal dimensions of the hull and spars of the 'Sunbeam' are as

follows:--Length between perpendiculars, 137 ft.; beam, 27 ft. 6 in.;

depth of hold, 13 ft. 9 in.; displacement in tons, 576; sail area in

square yards, 9,200.

In fourteen years of active cruising in all parts of the world the

seaworthiness of the 'Sunbeam' has been thoroughly tested. Neither

when lying to nor scudding has she ever shipped a green sea. She can

be worked with a complement of eighteen seamen and three stokers. She

can carry an armament of machine and quick-firing guns.

The consumption of fuel may be taken at three tons in twenty-four

hours for a speed of 7-3/4 knots; four tons for eight knots; and seven

tons for nine knots. The measured-mile speed was 10.27 knots. Seventy

tons of coal can be carried.

Under sail alone in the most favourable circumstances 13 knots is an

extreme speed. Three hundred knots have been made good on a few

occasions, with some contributions to the day's run from current. On a

passage the average distance made good is 1,000 miles a week, of which

one-third is under steam.

The recent cruise of the 'Sunbeam' included India, the Eastern

Archipelago, and Australia. The outward voyage was by the Suez Canal

and the return voyage by the Cape. On leaving Portsmouth calls were

made at Cowes and Southampton, the departure being finally taken from

Plymouth on the 19th of November. Gibraltar was reached on the 26th of

November, Algiers on the 1st of December, Malta 5th, Port Said 10th,

Assab Bay 19th, Aden 21st of December, and Bombay 3rd of January. From

England fine weather was experienced as far as Algiers. Thence to Port

Said the winds were strong from the westward, with an interval of calm

lasting nearly two days. In the northern portion of the Red Sea fresh

northerly winds prevailed. On leaving Aden the north-east monsoon blew

with such force that it was decided to make a stretch to the eastward

under sail. As the distance from the Arabian coast increased the

monsoon gradually abated, and a course was laid under steam direct to

Bombay. On nearing the coast of India the monsoon became more

northerly, and the 'Sunbeam' fetched Bombay under sail. Having given a

general description of the weather, the records of the log-book may be

summarised as follows:--Distance under sail, 4,046 knots; distance

under steam, 2,830 knots; the average speed in each case being within

a fraction of seven knots.

On the first section of the voyage the average speed of 1,000 miles a

week was maintained with remarkable uniformity. Bombay was reached on

the precise day which had been estimated before leaving England.

After a few days at Bombay the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Kurrachee, and

remained in its salubrious climate from the 10th of January to the 7th

of February. Lord Brassey and his family in the interval made an

extended journey in North-Western India. The return passage from

Kurrachee to Bombay, favoured by a brisk north-east monsoon, was made

entirely under sail in less than forty-eight hours, the distance

covered on the 9th of February being 268 miles. The Queen's Jubilee

was celebrated during the second visit of the 'Sunbeam' to Bombay.

The voyage was resumed on the 22nd of February. Touching at Jinjeera

and Goa, Colombo was reached on the 5th of March. The entire distance

from Kurrachee to Cape Comorin, including both entering and leaving

port, had been accomplished under sail. The monsoon was not felt on

the Malabar coast. From Bombay to Cape Comorin the passage was made

with the daily sea breezes, blowing fresh in the afternoon, followed

by calm prolonged through the night and the first part of the day.

Calling at Trincomalee _en route_, the 'Sunbeam' next proceeded to

Burmah. March is a busy season in the rice trade, and a noble fleet of

sailing ships was assembled at Rangoon.

After leaving Rangoon the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Borneo, touching at

Moulmein and Singapore. The Sarawak river was reached on the 3rd of

April. Following the northern and eastern coast of Borneo, Labuan,

Brunei, Kudat Bay, Sandakan, and Darvel Bay were successively visited.

Macassar was reached on the 19th of April. In the section of the

voyage extending from Bombay to Kurrachee, and thence by the route

which has been described, the total distances covered were 4,695 knots

under steam at an average speed of 8.3 knots, and 2,509 knots under

sail at an average speed of 5.1 knots.

The 'Sunbeam' left Macassar on the evening of the 20th of April. The

Indian Ocean was entered from the Allas Straits, which divides the

islands of Lombok and Sumbawa, on the 24th. A heavy swell was

encountered from the east, caused, as it was afterwards learned, by a

cyclone which did great damage to the fleet engaged in the

pearl-fishery on the north-west coast of Australia. The South-east

Trades were picked up on the 25th, and blew steadily until the 3rd of

May. On the 5th of May a gale, with furious squalls, was experienced

from the south-west. It was followed by a calm, and afterwards by

westerly winds. Albany was reached on the 8th of May. The 'Sunbeam'

again put to sea on the 17th of May. A week was occupied on the

passage to Adelaide. In the great Australian Bight north-east winds

were encountered, gradually shifting to the west, and blowing a gale

during the last two days before reaching port. On the day before the

arrival at Adelaide the distance of 265 knots was made good; sail

having been much reduced for several hours to avoid running down on

Kangaroo Island in thick weather at night. Between Macassar and

Adelaide a distance of 3,256 knots was covered under sail at an

average speed of 6.3 knots. The distance under steam was 601 knots and

the average speed seven knots.

From Adelaide the 'Sunbeam' made a smart run to Melbourne,

encountering a heavy gale with furious squalls off Cape Otway. After a

long stay at Melbourne the voyage was resumed to Sydney, Newcastle,

and Brisbane.

On leaving Brisbane the passage was taken inside the Great Barrier

Reef without the assistance of a pilot. Fourteen hundred miles of this

difficult navigation were traversed under sail. The 'Sunbeam' touched

at all the ports of Northern Queensland, and between Cooktown and the

Albany Pass anchored in the three intervening nights under the lee of

the coral reefs. A somewhat prolonged stay at Thursday Island was

broken by a visit to Darnley Island and other anchorages in the Torres

Straits. Port Darwin was reached on the 8th of September. Between

Adelaide and Port Darwin the distance under sail was 3,311 knots, and

the average speed 7.2 knots. The distance under steam was 966 knots,

and the average speed 6.5 knots. On arrival at Port Darwin the

'Sunbeam' had completed successfully the circumnavigation of the

Australian continent. Unhappily the cruise, so auspiciously commenced,

ended with that painful event which has cast a dark shadow over all

its other memories.

From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,

the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east

Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on the 26th of September, and

Mauritius was reached two days later. The passage from Port Louis to

Algoa Bay occupied 11 days. To the southward of the Trades, off the

coast of Natal, a short but severe gale from the south-west was

encountered. The gale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east,

which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the westward from off Gordon

Bay, her landfall on the coast of Africa. A day was spent at Port

Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing before an easterly wind

brought the yacht into Table Bay on the morning of the 15th of

October, just in time to gain the anchorage before one of the hard

gales from the south-east set in which are not infrequently

experienced at the Cape. The construction of a noble breakwater has

given complete security to the anchorage off Cape Town.

Between Port Darwin and the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots

under steam and 5,622 knots under sail; the average speed under steam

and sail was exactly eight knots. In the fortnight from September 13

to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots, were

covered under sail alone, with winds of moderate strength. Balloon

canvas was freely used.

The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on the 24th of October. She touched at

St. Helena on the 3rd of November, Ascension on the 7th, and Sierra

Leone on the 14th. In this section of the voyage the distance under

canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed 7.7 knots; and the distance

under steam 289 knots, with an average speed of seven knots. The

South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas again proved

extremely serviceable.

The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on the 15th of November,

under steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg.

N. A call of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on the 19th of

November. On the following day the northern islands of the Cape Verde

group were sighted. During the 21st and 22nd of November a great

number of sailing ships were passed, outward bound. The Trades were

interrupted by a calm on the 24th of November and stopped finally on

the 27th. On the following day, without warning from the barometer, a

strong gale commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission

for four days. Under low canvas and close hauled the 'Sunbeam'

gallantly struggled forward, making 130 knots on the 29th of November,

and on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively.

While hove-to in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the

lower sails were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm

trysails. Two large barques were passed lying-to under lower main

topsails and mizzen storm staysails. At dawn on the 2nd of December

Fayal was sighted.

Shelter was obtained for 24 hours under the lee of the island of Pico,

and on the following day the 'Sunbeam' anchored off Horta, the port of

Fayal. The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished,

with adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2

days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6.3

knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of six knots.

Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the

evening of the 3rd of December, with a favourable wind from the

south-south-east. At midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the

north-east, and on the following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up before

a severe gale for shelter under the lee of Terceira.

On the 5th of December the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage

homewards was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke

down, and sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. In the

succeeding days favourable winds were experienced from the westward.

On the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by

drizzling rain and fog, rendering observations impossible, which

continued until the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate

lifting of the haze on the evening of the 12th. The run from the

Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots before

a south-westerly gale. The total distance from Fayal, including the

call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which 60 only were under steam.

The average speed was seven knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth

Harbour at noon on the 14th of December. The total distance covered

during the voyage was 36,709 nautical miles, 25,800 under sail and

10,909 under steam. The runs under sail only included 39 days over 200

knots, 15 days over 240, seven days over 260, three days over 270. The

best day was 282 knots. The total consumption of coal was 330 tons.

Though the quality taken in abroad was in many instances inferior, an

average distance of 33 knots was steamed for every ton of coals

consumed.

When the 'Sunbeam' reached the Cape it was found that the tubes of the

boiler had been seriously injured by the great varieties of fuel burnt

during the voyage. The pressure of steam was considerably reduced,

with a corresponding loss of speed. On leaving Terceira the boiler

broke down completely, and for the remainder of the voyage the winds

were the only resource.

The crew, consisting of 24 men in various ratings, have behaved in a

highly creditable manner. The offences when in port have been few, and

at sea every duty has been carried out in a manner worthy of British

seamen. Three men joined at King George's Sound. They had been

sentenced to a short term of imprisonment for insubordination on board

a yacht returning from a cruise in Australian waters. To oblige the

Government Resident, Lord Brassey consented to receive these men on

board on trial. Better men it would not have been possible to obtain

had they been recruited through the usual agencies.

PART III.

_SPEECHES IN AUSTRALIA, TO WHICH SPECIAL REFERENCE IS MADE IN THE LAST

JOURNAL OF LADY BRASSEY. REPRINTED FROM THE AUSTRALIAN PRESS._

ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALASIA.

ADELAIDE, MAY 27TH, 1887.

The annual meeting of the South Australian Branch of the Royal

Geographical Society of Australasia was held at the Society's rooms,

Waymouth Street, on Friday afternoon, May 27th. Sir Samuel Davenport

(Vice-President) occupied the chair.