_ADELAIDE._
_Friday, May 27th._--We breakfasted punctually at nine o'clock, and I
drove afterwards with the Governor to see a collection of furs which
were to be sold by auction. They were chiefly from Tasmania, and
comprised a good many excellent specimens. From the fur-shop we went
to the Exhibition buildings, where we were met by Sir Herbert Sandford
(the British Commissioner), Sir Samuel Davenport, Mr. Jessop, and
others. The building is light, airy, and well designed; and when
filled, as it promises to be, with natural products, manufactured
goods, and works of art, will doubtless be well worth a visit. I wish
we could return for the opening, as we have been most kindly pressed
to do; but unfortunately our motto always seems to be 'Forward!' and
we are due in Melbourne on June 9th, and at Mount Gambier on the 16th;
so that if we linger for every inducement I fear we shall never get
through the programme of our voyage.
From the Exhibition the Governor took me for a drive all round the
city, past handsome and substantial public buildings and through wide
and clean streets. The system of park-lands, or reserves of open
spaces between the blocks of buildings, appears to be excellent, both
from a picturesque and a sanitary point of view.
We lunched at North Adelaide with Mr. Justice Bundey, and saw the
beautiful view from his house. On arriving, I was given a basket of
pink roses grown out of doors, which recalled delightful memories of
an English June, although in Australia the present month really
corresponds to our own November.
Tom had to rush off to meet Mr. Bray, and to attend the annual meeting
of the South Australian Geographical Society, where he made a
speech.[2] Among other people present at the meeting, he was
introduced to the Australian explorer, Mr. David Lindsay, who returned
about six months ago from a journey of thirteen months right across
the continent, from Adelaide to a point a little to the south-east of
Port Darwin. The expedition was most difficult and trying--much more
so than it would have been in any ordinary year, on account of the
drought. The thermometer sometimes stood at 125 deg. in the shade, and
could not register the heat in the sun! The explorers were obliged to
travel by day, in order that they might see and report upon the
country. They were once seven days without water, and constantly ran
very short of it. The journey was made entirely with camels, and the
intelligence of these animals seems to have been extraordinary. One
day the party were, as usual, very short of water, and Mr. Lindsay's
favourite camel seemed almost exhausted. Fortunately his rider chanced
to notice smoke in the distance, which, he knew, indicated the
presence of blacks, and consequently water. Merely turning the camel's
head in the right direction, he let the reins fall on its neck, and
the creature carried him to the desired spot, although it took five
hours to traverse the distance--fourteen miles. After a little drink
and a short rest of four hours he was able to proceed sixteen miles
further, to a spot where he rested quietly for three or four days, by
the side of a stream.
[Footnote 2: See Appendix.]
_Saturday, May 28th._--We had several visitors in the early morning,
among whom was Brigadier-General Owen, who brought plans for the
defences of Adelaide for Tom to examine. Mr. Millar also called to
make arrangements about our projected trip to Silverton.
At half-past eleven we proceeded by train to Port Adelaide, where we
were received by the Mayor (Mr. Malin) and Corporation, and taken to
see the new municipal buildings. Afterwards we had lunch in the
town-hall; and later on some of the party took a drive round the town
and saw the museum, which, though small, is interesting, a large
flour-mill, and several other buildings. By the 2.50 train we left for
Adelaide, and had to dress with unheard-of rapidity in order to be
present at the Governor's reception, which was attended by several
hundred people. Fortunately it was a lovely day, and we were able to
take advantage of the mild spring-like temperature to stroll about the
pretty garden and listen to the pleasant strains of the police bands.
_Sunday, May 29th._--This morning we went to the Anglican cathedral at
half-past ten, and heard a most beautiful choral service, including a
'Te Deum' by Gounod. This being Whit Sunday, the interior of the
church was prettily decorated. Service over, we drove to the residence
of the Chief Justice, where zoology and botany are combined in a small
space, for the semi-tropical garden in front of his house is lovely,
while in the spacious grounds at the back much care is given to rare
and curious pets. The interior of the house is a perfect museum of
beautiful specimens of Japanese art and curios of all kinds.
[Illustration: Adelaide]
_Wednesday, June 1st._--A very agreeable luncheon at the Mayor of
Adelaide's house, and afterwards to the town-hall, where we received a
formal welcome from the Adelaide Town Council. Kind speeches and warm
acknowledgments, followed by an organ recital. The instrument superb
and admirably played. By 4.45 train to Cockburn to visit the
celebrated Broken-Hill Silver Mine at Silverton.
_Thursday, June 2nd._--Our special train reached Cockburn at eight
o'clock this morning. We breakfasted at the running-sheds, and were
afterwards driven over to Broken-Hill, which we reached at two
o'clock, and descended the mine both before and after luncheon. We
went down what is called M'Culloch's Shaft, at a point where the mine
is 216 feet deep, and were greatly interested in seeing the process of
extracting the ore. The latest weekly returns from this mine show a
production of 46,000 ounces of silver.
_Friday, June 3rd._--This morning we descended another shaft and
inspected a different part of the mine, in which the ores differ
greatly from those we saw yesterday, and consist chiefly of kaolin.
After reaching the surface we visited the assaying offices, and
watched the experiments for testing the richness of ores.
The afternoon's drive to Silverton was very pleasant. After changing
horses, we went on over plains covered with salt-bushes. The plucky
little horses did their work excellently, and landed us at Cockburn at
6.30 P.M. Thence, after another change of horses, we continued our
journey to Thackaringa, where we rejoined the railway.
_Saturday, June 4th._--On the return journey from Silverton to
Adelaide I stopped during the early hours of this morning at Terowie
to see my cousin Herbert Woodgate, and thoroughly enjoyed, in spite of
sleepiness and fatigue, the sight at his house of so many objects
which brought back memories of old days. The walls were covered with
pictures of Swayslands, the dear old place in Kent of Herbert's
father--where I spent many happy hours of childhood, and where Mr.
Burnand used often to come and coach us all in charades and amateur
theatricals. There were also many pictures of Penshurst Place, and of
the old village church, whose beautiful chime of bells I so well
remember, and where I have 'assisted' at more than one pretty wedding.
It all brought back many mingled memories of joy and sorrow. Nothing
could have been kinder than our welcome. I was quite sorry when we had
to turn out again and trundle down to the train and be off once more
to Adelaide, where we arrived at half-past twelve P.M.
We were met at the station and carried off to lunch at Government
House, and afterwards had to dress as quickly as possible to go to the
meet of the hounds. The day was fine and pleasant, and it was very
enjoyable driving down in the Governor's mail-phaeton, and seeing the
other vehicles of all sorts and kinds proceeding in the same
direction. The drivers of these vehicles were so regardless of all
considerations of time, place, and speed, that I began to think
hunting on wheels, or even going to a meet on wheels, was far more
dangerous than riding across country.
I am not sure that I should enjoy my time in Australia so much if I
had not a certain belief in _kismet_; for travelling out here is
certainly very full of risk. What with unbroken horses, rickety carts,
inexperienced drivers, rotten and ill-made harness put on the wrong
way, bad roads, reckless driving, and a general total indifference to
the safety of life and limb, a journey is always an exciting, and
sometimes a risky, experience. A little excitement is all very well;
but when it becomes absolutely dangerous, a little of it goes a long
way. I dislike seeing a horse's hoofs quite close to my head, with a
trace or two trailing in the dust, or to hear the ominous crack of
splinter-bar or bolt; yet these are things of daily and hourly
occurrence in our bush drives. I must say I was fully confirmed in my
opinion that driving was more dangerous than riding when the hunt
commenced. A man in scarlet went first with a little bag of aniseed,
and was followed by about 150 people on foot, and as many more either
on horseback or in vehicles. The drag was so arranged that many of the
jumps could be seen from a ridge near. The clever way in which little
horses of all sorts and kinds, well bred and underbred, with all sorts
of weights on their backs, jumped high timber fences without touching
them, was wonderful to behold. Some of the obstacles were even worse
than timber, for they were made of four wires stretched between timber
posts with a solid rail at top. The last fence of all, after twenty
minutes' run through a fairly heavy country, measured four feet two;
and yet not a horse out of the fifty or sixty who jumped it even
touched it in the least. I noticed that one or two of the riders were
very careless of the hounds, who had to crouch under the fences until
the horses had jumped over them. Afterwards I drove with the children
to 'The Olives,' a pretty house with a lovely garden, full of fragrant
violets, where a large party was assembled to meet us at tea.
[Illustration: _Stypandra umbellata_]
_Monday, June 6th._--Resumed work upon my Ambulance paper at an early
hour this morning. Not having a secretary to help me, I find the work
really hard; for my arm is often so bad that I can hardly use it. I
had a very busy morning, and after breakfast went to the Zoological
Gardens, where we were met by Sir Thomas Elder and others. I was
amused to see four little leopard cubs crouched in a row on a plank,
looking in their dark corner like owls. From the Zoological Gardens we
drove to the Botanical Gardens, and were met there by Dr. Schonburg,
the director, who showed us all the plants, and especially pointed out
the different species of eucalypti, which I am most anxious to
understand, for they are a large 'family.' Everything here, whether
called banksia or anything else, seems to run to bottle-brush just as
in Western Australia. Antipodean botany is puzzling to the new
arrival. The museum at the Botanical Gardens is excellently arranged,
both for the exhibition of specimens and for the information of
visitors.
Mrs. Hay sent her carriage for us at one o'clock, and we went out to
lunch at her pretty country place, where we met a large party. We had
to hurry back directly afterwards to attend the Ambulance Meeting, at
which the Governor kindly presided. It was held at Government House,
and was well attended. I found it a great effort to read the paper I
had prepared. There were few speakers. Everything, however, went off
well, and I earnestly hope our afternoon's work may bear good, useful
fruit. There was a dinner-party in the evening at Government House,
followed by a small reception and some nice music.
_Tuesday, June 7th._--In spite of my Ambulance meeting being over, the
force of habit was so strong upon me that I awoke before four. At
half-past ten I went to a small gallery of excellent pictures, over
which we were shown by the gentlemen in charge. We afterwards went
through the School of Art and saw the pupils at work.
At half-past eleven Mr. D. Lindsay, the Australian explorer, came with
his aboriginal servant, Cubadjee, whom he had brought from some place
in the interior. This youth, it seems, is considered the short member
of his family; but, although only seventeen years old, he is six feet
five inches in height, while his elder brother, they declare, is seven
feet six inches, and the rest of the family are equally tall. Cubadjee
made fire for us with two pieces of wood (a process of which I had
often heard), by rubbing a piece of wood with holes bored in it
against another piece, quickly producing sparks, which easily ignited
a piece of paper, and left a certain amount of black powder.
At 12.30 I went with Mr. Riches to the Treasury to see the nuggets
which had been collected by the Local Government to be shown at the
Exhibition. Some of them were fine specimens, especially the last
great find at Teetulpa--a solid alluvial lump of gold. There was also
a splendid piece of gold quartz, brought in only yesterday from Mount
Pleasant. We next visited the post-office, and were shown all over
that establishment by Mr. Todd, the Postmaster-General. There I saw
for the first time the working of a large telephone exchange, where at
least half a dozen ladies sat with their mouth and ears alternately
applied to the instruments, either to speak or to listen. The
telegraph-room was also interesting. Only a few years ago the
telegraph service cost per week some seven or eight pounds, whereas
now the expenditure amounts to twice as many thousands. Mr. Todd had
himself been with the expedition to establish the great European
telegraph line that runs right through Southern, Central, and Northern
Australia to Port Darwin. He told us an amusing story of the natives'
notion of the work they were engaged on: 'What big fool white man is,
putting up fence! cat will run underneath.' Mr. Todd is a great
electrician, as well as a talented meteorologist, and his tables of
winds and probable weather, to be seen in the central hall of the
post-office, must be of great value to shipowners.
On our way to the station we called in at the Lower House, and heard
Mr. Playford make his speech on the no-confidence vote. From the Lower
we went to the Upper House, where another gentleman was advocating, as
strongly as Mr. Playford has been denouncing, the Government loans.
[Illustration: On the Murray River]
Many friends met us at the station, including the Mayor, the Speaker,
the Chief Justice, and several others. Two carriages had been reserved
for us in the Melbourne Express. The railroad climbs up the same hills
among which we have taken so many pleasant drives during our stay
here. The views of Mount Lofty and Mount Barker from the carriage
window were lovely, and I was quite sorry when darkness prevented me
from seeing any more of the landscape.
We arrived at Murray Bridge soon after six, and were met by Tab and
Mr. Reid, and all walked up to a snug hotel. The beds were
comfortable, and I managed to keep up a fire of mallee roots all
night, for it was bitterly cold.
_Wednesday, June 8th._--I awoke at two, and as it proved impossible to
go to sleep again, I wrote and read until daybreak. At a little
before nine we went down to the bank to meet Mr. Macfarlane and his
daughters, who had come forty miles down the Murray in their pretty
little steam-launch to take us to their station lodge, eight miles
from Wellington. They had started before four this morning, Mr.
Macfarlane steering all the way. The launch is a Clyde-built boat, and
is very fast. We passed through pretty scenery on our way up the
river, and after a time came to a station to which many acres have
been added by reclaiming the swamps which lie on either side of the
river. There chanced to be two guns on board the launch, and as we
steamed along, the gentlemen amused themselves by occasional shots at
the numerous black swans, coots, and ducks.
We voyaged for some miles between banks fringed with willows, the
original cuttings of which had been brought by an old French settler
from Napoleon's grave in St. Helena. The trees have grown
marvellously; and I hear that this year the avenue, if it may be so
called, is to be extended some miles further up the stream.
At about one o'clock we arrived at the landing-pier, where we found
one of the capacious trading-boats, of which we have met many on the
river. It is a regular pedlar's store on a large scale, where one
might buy dresses of the latest fashion, cloaks and bonnets, besides
all sorts of medicines for man and beast, groceries, and stores of
every kind. A most useful institution it must be to isolated toilers
on the banks of the Murray.
On reaching Wellington Lodge we were first shown a shearing-house with
every convenience for folding the sheep in thousands. After the
shearing operations are completed the sheep are let out into little
pens, so that it can be at once seen whether a man has done his work
well or ill. We saw all the processes and modes of packing the wool,
of which Mr. Macfarlane is justly proud; for I believe his system has
been adopted in almost all the wool-producing countries of the world.
Leaving the wool-sheds, we went to the stables, which were full of
young horses; and here we were shown a 'buckboard'--a wonderful
Australian conveyance. It is as light as a feather, and is capable of
carrying a great deal of luggage or farm produce, besides the driver
and one passenger. This particular buckboard almost came to grief
yesterday with Mr. Macfarlane, who had gone out shooting with one of
his daughters. He had left the carriage to get nearer his game, when
the horses took fright and ran away, tearing round and round a field;
a trace broke, and the light trap nearly touched the fence at every
turn. The young girl stuck pluckily to her post, and at last succeeded
in pulling the horses up.
Through a door in the wall of the stable yard we passed into a
beautiful garden full of violets, mignonette, scarlet geraniums, and
late autumn flowers; besides gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and
other English fruits; while overhead stretched a long trellis covered
with fine Muscatel vines from which some late bunches of grapes were
still hanging.
[Illustration: A Buckboard]
Wellington Lodge itself proved to be a comfortable dwelling, with
rooms opening into a garden, bright and gay with sunshine and
flowers. The view over the plains was full of life, and the paddocks
were well stocked with cattle and horses. After an excellent luncheon
of good things produced upon the station, we spent a pleasant time
looking over a capital collection of photographs, some of which Mr.
Macfarlane very kindly gave us. Then we went into the garden, strolled
round the stables, saw some of the young stock, and were shown what a
buck-jumper could do. After a few preliminary curvets and bounds, the
gates of the yard were opened and the animal was allowed to 'go' like
an arrow from a bow for three miles. His first leap was over a very
stiff gate more than five feet high, which he took like a bird, and
was soon out of sight.
Having dined, we returned to the railway, and took up our quarters in
a boudoir-car attached to the express train, timed to arrive at
Ballarat at six o'clock to-morrow morning.
_Ballarat: Thursday, June 9th._--After an excellent night in a
luxurious sleeping-carriage I was called at seven. A little before
eight the Mayor of Ballarat and others were announced, and I had to
settle with them the programme for the day whilst the others were
making their toilettes. At 8.30 we left the station for Craig's Hotel,
where we found breakfast prepared in a comfortable room. Tom and the
doctor had arranged to arrive at half-past ten. They had parted from
us at Port Adelaide on the 3rd instant, and had gone by sea in the
'Sunbeam' to Melbourne, which they reached on the 6th, after a quick
but stormy passage. Tom remained a couple of days at Melbourne--just
long enough to be present at the opening of the Parliament, and also
at the annual banquet of the Public Service Association, at both of
which functions he was glad to be able to assist. On the 9th he
embarked again, took the yacht on to Geelong, and came by train to
meet us here. We were just in time to receive the Mayor at half-past
eleven, and then we all went together to the town-hall, where the
Corporation, the Mayoress, and a number of ladies were kindly waiting
for us. After looking over the building we drove first to the Albion
Lode Mine; but as no preparation had been made for our descent, we
went on to the Star of the East Mine, where, after putting on real
miners' clothes, we went down in the cage with Mr. Carroll and several
other directors who had come to meet us. The directors asked me to
christen a new lode the 'Lady Brassey,' but I suggested that the name
should be the 'Sunbeam,' and this they eventually adopted. I was
afterwards glad to hear that the next day they struck gold. There was
a good deal of walking to be done in the mine, and I was very tired
when we got to the surface, at about three o'clock, having been
underground more than two hours. But there was still the crushing and
separating machinery to be seen. This proved to be much the same as we
saw in use in Cornwall last year for dealing with the tin ore.
[Illustration: Ballarat]
It was past three before we got back to the hotel, tired and hungry.
Much as we were in need of refreshment, we were not allowed to take
it in peace, for interviewer after interviewer kept coming in. At
last, in despair, we ordered three hansoms and went for a drive round
the town and environs, which looked wonderfully beautiful in spite of
the wintry season and the gloomy day.
We dined at the _table d'hote_. Tom and the doctor arrived later.
Tom's eye was very bad, and had to be bandaged up, and altogether he
looked very unwell.
_Friday, June 10th._--Miss Cornwall, the discoverer and part owner of
the Midas Mine, came early this morning with her father and one or two
other gentlemen--directors of the mine--to take us to see it. The
drive through the town was pleasant, and we admired its fine public
buildings and beautiful avenues of trees. It was a long drive to the
mine through Dowling Forest, a picturesque spot with large trees
growing amid park-like scenery; marred, however, by _debris_ of
abandoned mines, or little red flags and heaps of rubbish, which
marked the camps of new explorers. Miss Cornwall made the way
interesting by telling us the history of the various mines we passed.
One story was about a mine known to be very rich, but which had never
paid more than its working expenses. The reason for this
unsatisfactory condition of affairs could not be discovered for a long
time; but at last one man 'peached,' and was followed by the police to
a public-house, where he met four of his fellow-diggers. Although they
had all been carefully searched before leaving the mine, a more
rigorous examination by the police produced fifteen ounces of gold on
each man, the gold being valued at 4_l._ per ounce.
[Illustration: Miners' Camp]
Arrived at the mine, we donned our mining costumes and climbed to the
top of a high mound, where the crushing apparatus stood. The contents
of one of the huge cylinders had been kept especially for us to see,
and the miners now proceeded to run it out, with the result that a
good proportion of small nuggets was obtained. This was by no means
the last process. There would be two or three further washings. We
next went down the mine--in a cage, as is usual--and had to walk
through the workings, for there were no trucks or trolleys. The
operations have been successful, and the character of the ground leads
to the belief that large nuggets may yet be found in the river bed.
After going through a great many of the levels I felt tired, and sat
down, and, to amuse myself, proceeded to scratch in the side of the
heading in order to fill a little pannikin, which Miss Cornwall said
each of the children and I were to have to wash out in the
old-fashioned miner's way. Each pannikin was marked and sent to the
top in charge of one of the 'head gangers.' Many of the miners were
Cornishmen who had emigrated from the old country, and were bringing
up their sons to their own calling in this wonderful new land. They
have a saying here that a Cornish miner is the best miner in the
world, and the only one better is a Cornish man's son. The meaning of
this is that you cannot begin a calling too early in life, and that an
intimate, though perhaps unscientific, knowledge of the various strata
is of the utmost importance in mining operations.
On returning to the surface the air seemed frightfully cold in
comparison with the warm atmosphere of the mine; and I shivered and
shook, as I sat by a little heap of _debris_, and washed out my
pannikin of dirt. But I only obtained about half an ounce of small
gold nuggets, which, however, the experienced say, denote the
proximity of a bed of very much larger specimens.[3] It seemed
delightful to get into the warm shelter of the office, put on our
wraps again, and enjoy the lunch so kindly provided for us. We drank
success to the Midas Mine and all connected with it, specially to the
energetic discoverer, principal shareholder, and manageress--Miss
Cornwall.
[Footnote 3: In connection with Lady Brassey's visit to the Midas
Mine, the following extract from the _Melbourne Argus_ of June 14th
may be of interest:--'The nugget obtained in the Midas Company's mine,
on the Dowling Forest Estate, Ballarat, on June 11th, has been named
the "Lady Brassey." It was found within two feet of the spot in the
drive from which a dish of stuff was washed by her Ladyship when she
visited the mine the previous day, and it has since been shown to her
in Melbourne, and by her leave has been named after her. Its weight is
167 oz., and it consists almost entirely of pure gold. Together with
the rest of the gold obtained from the mine last week (117 oz.) the
nugget will be exhibited in the window of Messrs. Kilpatrick & Co.,
jewellers, Collins Street. The Midas Company was only registered in
October 1885, since which time the gold won has realised a total of
5,400 oz. The Company began operations with 500_l._ and has not had to
make a single call.']
Immediately after lunch Tom and I were obliged to leave, as we wished
to call on the Bishop. There was only just time to do this and catch
the train to Geelong, at which place we arrived at about half-past
six. We were met at the station by Mr. Bartlett (one of the numerous
sons of the Mr. Bartlett who was so long with Mr. Brassey in France,
Spain, and other parts of the world), and soon found ourselves on
board the yacht again, which looked, as usual, pleasant and homelike
after our short absence.
_Saturday, June 11th._--I was up early, and tried to rouse the other
people up too, so as to be ready to receive the Mayor and Corporation,
who arrived punctually, accompanied by their ladies. The presentation
of the address of welcome took some time, and then we had to go ashore
and drive round the town of Geelong to admire its public buildings and
natural beauties. Tom went first, with the principal members of the
Corporation, in a break drawn by four horses, and I followed with the
children in other carriages. We drove first to the skating-rink,
through nice broad streets with good houses on each side. There we
were shown an excellent collection of New Guinea curiosities belonging
to a German explorer. From the skating-rink we drove through fine
streets to the Botanical Gardens, where we were given beautiful
nosegays, and there met the rest of the party, who were being taken
round by the curator. The gardens, and especially the houses, seem
admirably planned. I noticed an ingenious arrangement of water-pipes
leading to the top of the tree-ferns, by which the parasites growing
on them are kept constantly moist.
When we had thoroughly explored the gardens we bade adieu to the Mayor
and our friends on shore, and went off to the yacht. We reached
Hobson's Bay at dusk, and arrived at Government House in the middle of
dinner!
[Illustration: Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne]