_ELEOPURA._
_Easter Sunday, April 10th._--Eleopura looked extremely picturesque in
the pale moonlight, with the grand sandstone bluff of the island of
Balhalla standing out boldly in the foreground against the starlit
sky; but the coast-line seemed still more beautiful in the bright
morning sunshine. The brilliant light was relieved by some heavy
thunder-clouds fringing the Bay of Sandakan and hanging in denser
masses over the mouths of the numerous rivers which empty themselves
into it. Balhalla, with its cliff of red sandstone running sheer down
to the sea, is clothed on the shoreward side with the richest
tropical vegetation, including vast quantities of the beautiful
_nepenthes_, or pitcher-plant, which forms so prominent a feature in
the flora of Borneo.
Mr. Flint, the harbour-master, came on board at six o'clock to offer
us the hospitality of his bungalow. After breakfast he and Mr. Crocker
landed with the kind intention of arranging for us to spend a short
time on shore to recruit a little from the effects of the intense
heat, the air being naturally much cooler on the hills than down in
the bay. We had service at 11.30, and the present Governor, Mr.
Treacher, and afterwards two other gentlemen, came to lunch. Later on
we all landed, some of us going to the little church, where Tom read
the service. There is no resident clergyman at Sandakan, but the
Governor supplies his place every Sunday, except when the Bishop
happens to pay a visit to the place, as he did last week.
The luxury of getting on shore to large airy rooms, with deep cool
verandahs, and the feeling of perfect rest and repose, can only be
fully appreciated after a long and anxious voyage in a hot climate on
board a comparatively small ship. Nor can anyone who has not suffered,
as we all have, from prickly heat, understand how pleasant are
fresh-water baths. We all felt far too comfortable and delightfully
indolent for letter-writing, or even for reading, and could do nothing
but enjoy to the utmost the delights of the shore under such agreeable
conditions. Our good-natured host had turned out, bag and baggage, in
order to make room for us, and had gone to Government House, leaving
his comfortable bungalow entirely at our disposition. Some of the
gentlemen, for whom there was not sufficient room, went to another
bungalow not far distant.
_Monday, April 11th._--We were all up early, anxious to make the most
of our time in this pleasant spot. Tom went off for a ride with the
Governor, while Mabelle and Baby took a long walk with Mr. von Donop
(the Secretary) and Mr. Callaghan; and Muriel and I proceeded to the
top of the hill to see the Doctor. Some of the gentlemen went off
shooting, and did not return until late in the day.
[Illustration: Mr. Flint's Bungalow]
I had been very anxious to go to the black bird's-nest caves of
Gomanton, but was assured by everybody that the difficulties would be
found insurmountable. All agreed that it was absolutely necessary to
await the return and the report of Messrs. Walker and Wilson, who had
gone to Gomanton to survey the road and to ascertain the
practicability of utilising the vast quantity of the excellent guano
with which the floor of the caves is thickly covered. A shorter
expedition has been therefore proposed, and it is arranged that we
shall cross the bay and look at the bilian-wood cutting. The party
divided, some going in the steam-launch, and some in Captain Flint's
boat to a picnic on the other side of the bay. The distant views of
Sandakan are very fine, as is also the aspect of the north bluff of
the island of Balhalla, where the best white birds'-nests in the world
are found, and are collected at terrible risk to life and limb. We
glided through a perfect archipelago of small islands, where we saw
curious houses, inhabited by Bajaus, or sea-gipsies. These huts are
built on piles in the water, and round them dart the natives in their
tiny canoes, throwing spears at the numerous shoals of fish. So
pleasant had been the voyage that we seemed to reach our destination
almost immediately. It was a long unfinished pier, composed of a few
split Nipa palms fixed, at intervals of a couple of feet apart, on
piles driven into the bed of the river. This primitive jetty stretched
far out into the stream, and was reached by a ladder of the same rough
style, with a space of at least two feet between each rung; not at all
a landing-place for ordinary mortals--European, at all events--and
only suitable for angels, Dyaks, or monkeys. Nevertheless it is the
timber-loading station for ships trading with Sandakan, and stands at
the mouths of Sapa Gaya and Suanlamba Rivers, down which most of the
best timber is floated in rafts or towed by steam-launches from the
interior. Fortunately some native prahus were drawn up alongside the
pier, and into these we stepped, and so got ashore, climbing up the
steep bank to the cosy little bungalow above. There we found Messrs.
Walker and Wilson, now on their way back from the caves, of which they
gave an interesting description. They seemed, however, to be firmly
impressed with the idea that it would be impossible for us to visit
them, the difficulties of the expedition being far too great for
anyone unaccustomed to Borneo jungle-life. They had been obliged to
swim rivers, wade through mud up to their arms, sleep in damp caves,
and endure other hardships not very conducive to health in a malarious
district. Of course they had got completely soaked through, baggage
and all, and were now doing their best to dry everything on the
grass--a process not facilitated by a tremendous thunder-shower which
came on suddenly during our visit. The effect of the storm was very
grand, as the heavy clouds came rolling up the bay to discharge their
burden of electricity and rain just over our heads; but the moment it
passed, out came the sun as brightly as ever. We had a most cheery
picnic in the little five-roomed bungalow. The one piece of furniture,
except the table and two chairs, which our hosts had brought with
them, was a comfortable hammock-cot, of which the children at once
took possession, to make a swing. While we were sitting in the deep
verandah, a steamer arrived alongside the pier, towing several rafts,
which we saw unlashed and pulled to pieces in true primitive fashion,
the heavy bilian-wood or ironwood of which they were composed being
simply cast into the river, as near the shore as possible, to be
fished out at low tide. Bilian-wood when newly cut is of a dark
sand-colour, and, being hard and durable, is used for purposes where
those qualities are required.
[Illustration: Kapuan Timber Station]
All pleasant things must come to an end, and we were soon obliged to
start again on our return voyage. We shipped Mr. Walker and Mr. Wilson
on board the steam-launch and towed their boat. All went well till we
got near the entrance to the Bay, where we encountered such a high sea
that we had to cast the boat adrift to prevent her from being swamped.
We stopped at the yacht to give our friends an opportunity of seeing
her. Nearly all the crew, and even the stewards, were ashore at
rifle-practice. Several visitors came on board and detained us for
some time; so that when we landed we were only just able to have a
look at the Museum and get up to Mr. Flint's bungalow in time to dress
for dinner at Government House, where we found quite a large party of
gentlemen assembled to meet us.
None of our sportsmen turned up to dinner except Mr. Cook. Afterwards
various kinds of dances were performed by the natives for our
entertainment. In some of the war-dances the men displayed much
agility and gracefulness, darting from side to side in their
war-cloaks of toucans' feathers, which floated out behind them with
each movement. They were armed with shields, spears, and kreises. It
was really a most picturesque scene, and the large open verandah of
Government House, with the background of sea, sky, and distant
mountains, seen in the bright moonlight, with the 'Sunbeam' peacefully
at anchor in the foreground, formed an appropriate setting. The Dusuns
and Sundyaks are very fond of dancing, and seize every opportunity of
indulging in the amusement. In times of abundant harvest, it is said,
dancing goes on in every village all night long, and night after
night.
[Illustration: Dyak Dance]
_Tuesday, April 12th._--Mabelle and the children went out for a ride
this morning, while Tom and I paid a visit to Dr. Hoffmeister, whom we
found much better. It was very hot work walking down to the shore
again, and even the children seemed to find the temperature rather
trying. Fortunately for the inhabitants of Sandakan, the nights are
always cool, a fact to which the little community owes its excellent
health and the preservation of its strength and energy.
In the course of the morning we visited the town to see the bazaars
and have another look at the Museum. There is a fish and general
market at Eleopura, besides Government buildings, barracks, a
hospital, hotels, several stores, and a club, to say nothing of a
small temporary church, a mosque, and a joss-house. On the green in
front of the Government building stands a handsome Irish cross, raised
to the memory of poor Frank Hatton and other explorers who have
perished in North Borneo. At the Government Offices we found a few
interesting curiosities, particularly some finely woven mats that had
been prepared in the interior for the Colonial Exhibition in London
but were not ready in time; an elephant's tusk of enormous size, and
some teeth found in the jungle near here. This collection will
doubtless form the nucleus of a larger museum. It comprises also gems,
weapons, rat-traps, bird-calls, eggs, stuffed orang-outangs, and
specimens of native stuffs and mats. The sarongs from Java and Celebes
are very curious, the pattern being elaborately worked in a sort of
thick coloured wax, which makes them quite stiff. Some of them are
expensive, costing sixty or seventy dollars each. There did not seem
to be any of the curious fire-tubes for producing fire which we had
seen in the Museum at Kuching.
I returned early on board the 'Sunbeam' to complete the arrangements
for resuming our voyage this evening. Further deliberation has
convinced us that the visit to the Gomanton Caves is quite out of the
question, notwithstanding the kind offers of assistance which we have
received from Mr. Treacher and others. We have accordingly decided to
content ourselves with an attempt to reach the Madai Caves in Darvel
Bay, which are said to be somewhat easier of access. Mr. Treacher, Mr.
Crocker, and Mr. Callaghan have offered to accompany us, and to engage
the requisite men for the expedition.
There was a large party to lunch at Government House, and more came in
afterwards to attend my informal Ambulance meeting, at which the
Governor took the chair, and Tom explained the work of the society. I
also ventured to say a few words, and Mr. Crocker supported the
movement very cordially. Everybody in Eleopura was present, besides
many from Kudat and Silam, and all seemed interested in the subject.
Dr. Walker took the scheme up warmly. I earnestly hope it may go on
and prosper. There can be no country where it would be more likely to
be of use, considering the wild sort of life people have to lead here.
I presented the new centre with a roll of anatomical drawings and a
good many books and papers. I trust, therefore, that we may regard the
Eleopura branch of the Ambulance Association as fairly started.
After the meeting, feeling very tired, I went in my chair with Mr.
Wilson to the church, which is a pretty little building, and thence, a
little higher up the hill, to the hospital. This appears to be an
excellently well-managed institution, but is still sadly in want of a
European ward, especially in view of the fact that the trade and
population of the place are rapidly increasing. Ascending a few steps
higher we arrived at the club, with its deep verandahs and spacious
windows and doors, arranged to catch every breath of air, and to
command the finest views. The cemetery lies in another valley right
behind the club. It is a pretty spot, nicely kept, and quite away from
the town.
[Illustration: Borneo Weapons]
From the club we proceeded to the rifle-butts, passing through so
narrow and overgrown a path that my bearers declined to proceed, until
Mr. Wilson peremptorily insisted upon their doing so. Even as it was,
I had to walk the last part of the way. Arrived at the butts, we found
that our forecastle-cook had proved himself the best shot by several
points. Altogether, the practice may be regarded as highly
satisfactory, considering how long it is since our men have had an
opportunity of handling a rifle. I distributed certificates of
efficiency, and then we all went back to an early dinner at Mr.
Flint's, after which we had to re-embark. The nice-looking Sikhs who
are in charge of the convicts here having carried our luggage down to
the boats, there was nothing for us to do but to say good-bye to our
kind hosts, and return to the 'Sunbeam' once more. We found her lying
alongside the wharf, where she had come to take in water, and quite
crowded with our new friends, who were determined to see the last of
us, and who almost all brought us some little curio to keep in
remembrance of our visit to Sandakan. The tide was low, and it was no
easy task to get down to the deck of the yacht from the somewhat lofty
pier. At last we were safely on board, and slowly steamed away, amid a
volley of ringing cheers, which we returned by sending up blue lights
and flights of rockets.
[Illustration: Sandakan, bearing N.]
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI]
The carrying capacity of the yacht was now rather severely tested, for
in addition to our own party we had Messrs. Treacher, Crocker, and
Callaghan as passengers, besides some thirty Sikhs, policemen,
coolies, and others, whose services would be required for the
expedition to the Madai Caves.
_Wednesday, April 13th._--Oppressively hot. We made Tanjong Unsang at
daylight, and steamed southward and westward along a fine coast. At
noon we had come 135 miles, and were in lat. 4 deg. 57' N., long. 118 deg. 47'
E.
All hands were busily engaged during the morning in preparing the
large cutter for Tab's projected shooting expedition this afternoon.
She is a fine big boat, temporarily fitted with a ridge-roofed awning
and boards on which beds can be placed, thus making her almost like a
house-boat. Everything that could be thought of as likely to be wanted
was put into her; but notwithstanding all that foresight and care
could do, I felt rather uncomfortable about this lonely and somewhat
risky enterprise.
In the afternoon we steamed down a little out of our course towards
the island of Timbu Mata, which is said to abound with deer and wild
pig, to drop the cutter with Tab and four men from the crew in her,
all armed with rifles, cutlasses, and revolvers, besides their
sporting weapons. Then we proceeded on our course to Silam in Darvel
Bay, 175 miles from Sandakan, where we anchored about 6 P.M. A prahu
came alongside at once, manned by natives and having on board a
specimen of the worst type of rough Australian gold-diggers--very
tipsy, poor man, and very anxious to come on board the yacht. His
efforts in this direction were, however, repulsed, and we finally
induced the native crew to take him back to the shore.
Darvel Bay is a most lovely spot, and in the sunset light I thought
that I had never seen anything more beautiful in the world. We went
ashore as soon as possible, having, however, first to climb with
extended though uncertain strides up one of the dreadful wide-runged
ladders which confront us at every pier. This performance landed us on
what appeared to be a very rickety kind of platform, with, as usual, a
great deal of open space in the flooring. Being assured that it was
quite safe if we only stepped out boldly and with confidence, we
advanced as well as we could, and found the task not so difficult
after all, though it must be confessed that the flooring seemed
terribly springy and elastic. The two small dogs were carried, but
poor 'Sir Roger' was left to follow us as best he could, meeting with
many a slip and many a tumble on his way. It was too dark to see much
of the town, which appeared to be clean and tidy, with several
well-furnished shops in the principal streets. There is also a
Government station here, and an experimental garden. The harbour is
well sheltered, and although it contains a good many coral-banks,
vessels drawing sixteen feet of water can anchor quite close to the
settlement.
[Illustration: Entering River, Madai]
The reports of explorers in search of gold on the Segama River are
satisfactory. A road is now being constructed which will render access
to the gold-fields much easier than at present. It is, however,
impossible for Englishmen to work the fields, and Chinese labour will
most likely have to be employed. The process adopted by the natives of
extracting the gold is primitive in the extreme.
We met our friend the Australian digger again, and heard that he had
come down from the fields with three companions, all ill with fever,
one being so bad that he had to be carried all the way. Still they
were satisfied with their success, and were now celebrating it by
drinking their profits away as fast as possible.
After strolling slowly up to Mr. Callaghan's comfortable bungalow, we
rested a little and had tea, and then returned on board to pack up and
make ready for our early start to-morrow. The steam-launch was already
afloat with her boiler in her, but a good deal had yet to be done in
the way of preparing the gig, fixing the awning, and stowing the
stores, photographic gear, &c.
_Thursday, April 14th._--It was nearly midnight before all had been
arranged in readiness for our early start and possible camp-out for at
least one night; and even then there was a great deal that had to be
left unsettled, precise information as to roads, rivers, distances,
and so forth not being easily obtainable in this partially developed
country.
At 3.30 A.M. I was called, and tried to dispel my drowsiness by the
pleasing consciousness that an expedition to which I had long looked
forward with such deep interest was about to be undertaken, and, as we
had reason to hope, through the kind exertions of Mr. Treacher and Mr.
Callaghan, duly accomplished. An hour later, these two gentlemen,
accompanied by Mr. Crocker, came on board; and then we started
directly in a long native canoe, with a crew and escort of thirty
coolies, Sulus, Dyaks, and policemen. Our destination was the famous
caves of edible birds'-nests at Madai. The steam-launch, well laden
with extra coal in bags, and a few spare coolies, led the way, having
in tow the heavy gig, filled with provisions of all sorts, and
materials for camping out. Then came the long prahu--also in
tow--laden almost to the water's edge with her thirty passengers and
their gear. The extent and weight of this little flotilla reduced our
progress to a speed of about five knots. It was a perfect morning, and
the air was quite calm except for the slight breeze which we created
for ourselves as we progressed. Soon after seven o'clock the sun
became unpleasantly hot, and we were glad to spread our awning. At
eight we breakfasted extremely well, the necessary cooking being done
over a small spirit-lamp, in the absence of kerosene or any of the
mineral oils, the use of which is not allowed on board the 'Sunbeam'
or any of her satellites.
[Illustration: Commissariat Department]
A little before nine we reached the mouth of the river, and safely
accomplished some intricate navigation through narrow channels between
coral reefs. The mists were still lying in solid white masses in the
valleys and between the mountain peaks; but the small densely wooded
islets that dotted the bay were mirrored in its unruffled surface. The
scene was altogether most picturesque, and reminded me a good deal of
the splendid harbour of Rio; but without, of course, the Corcovado or
Sugar-loaf Hill, or those curiously shaped Organ Mountains in the
background. Once in the river, the view became quite different, and
much more shut in, owing to the dense walls of mangrove and other
tropical vegetation which lined either side of the wide stream, up
which the tide was swiftly flowing. The air now seemed fresh and pure;
but in other states of the tide it is, I am told, very much the
reverse.
In about half an hour we reached a junction of two streams, where the
boats composing our flotilla had to part company--the steam-launch to
be left behind, the prahu to lead the way, and the cutter to be
paddled and punted up after us as far as she could go. This point
proved to be only to a small landing-place, at which eight prahus were
drawn up near two temporary wooden kajang huts belonging to the
bird's-nest takers, members of the Eraan tribe, to whom the caves are
let. Birds'-nests, it may be remarked, are a profitable property,
yielding a royalty of 15,000 dollars, or over 2,500_l._ a year, to the
North Borneo Company.
From the cutter we embarked in the prahu, and from the prahu we
finally landed in a swamp, where an hour's rest was allowed for the
coolies to get their food, whilst we completed the arrangements for
our return voyage, which, on account of the tide, promised to be much
more difficult.
At 10.45 A.M. we commenced the real hard work of the expedition.
Everyone walked except me, and I had to be carried in a very light
chair by two coolies, who were frequently relieved. It was rather
serious work for the bearers--to say nothing of my feelings--for they
had never carried a chair before, and the way lay through thick
jungle, constantly interspersed by morasses and swamps, and obstructed
by fallen trees, overhanging branches, thorny creepers, and marshy
streams. At first I had many misgivings, but soon gained confidence
when I saw how careful the men were, and how anxious to avoid an
accident. Two coolies went on in front, and with their sharp parongs
cut down or hacked away the more serious obstacles. If either the
chair or I caught in a tree or a thorn, or if any special difficulty
presented itself, somebody appeared from somewhere and rendered prompt
assistance.
I scarcely know how they managed to make their way at all through the
dense jungle which hemmed us in on every side, or to disentangle
themselves from the numerous obstacles which beset our path. If one of
the bearers suddenly plunged up to his waist in a morass, someone else
instantly came forward to pull him out and to raise the chair again.
When huge fallen trees obstructed the way, one or two men rushed
forward to assist in lifting the chair and me over the barricade. In
less than two hours I had been borne over an intricate and fatiguing
path, up hill and down dale, with frequent changes but with no
stoppages, until at last we fairly faced the limestone cliffs which we
had seen from the distance rising straight out of the jungle. We had
passed, and in fact followed for some distance, the fresh spoors,
eighteen inches in diameter, of an elephant, the sight of which caused
great excitement among the natives, especially when we met other
natives armed with guns.
[Illustration: Return of the Head-Hunter]
One bird's-nest taker whom we passed had just seen two elephants, and
a great palaver ensued, in which the word 'harden,' or some such
equivalent for ivory, frequently occurred. Many of the trees on the
line of route were very fine, specially the tapangs, the splendid
stems of which, supported by natural buttresses, rose in several
instances at least two hundred feet from the ground, unbroken by a
single branch. In the stem of the tapang the wild bees build their
combs, and beeswax is an important and valuable product of the
country. These trees, either singly or in groups, are the property by
inheritance of the natives; so that whenever any attempt is made at
clearing, or even cutting down a single tree, one of these small
proprietors is sure to come forward and swear that his interest,
derived from his father, his grandfather, or some even more remote
ancestor, is likely to be affected. The timber itself is valuable, and
where two buttresses occur exactly opposite to one another the width
of the tree is often so great that large slabs, with a fine grain
capable of taking a high polish, and large enough to form a
dining-table for twenty-four people, have been cut from them. The
Borneo jungle is so dense, and is so completely overshadowed by the
trees rising from it, that there is no undergrowth, and the effect of
bareness is produced; though I dare say that, if one could only look
down on the forest from the car of a balloon, the flora of creepers,
orchids, and parasites would be very beautiful wherever the light and
air could penetrate.
Presently we came across a good subject for a sketch. I was waiting at
the edge of a broad and winding river, shaded by tall trees, and
flowing over a gravelly bed, while two men went on in advance to sound
the depth of the stream before attempting to carry my chair across.
Just then two hunters appeared from the forest and seated themselves
on large mossy boulders a short distance apart. They put down beside
them their baskets and bundles of nests, their little mat
travelling-bags, and their elaborately carved and cased spears,
holding fast to their kreises, parongs, and bows and arrows. They were
literally armed to the teeth in their own fashion--a very formidable
fashion it is too--and I very much doubt whether the gun which one of
them had lying beside him was not the least terrible weapon which he
possessed, so skilled are they in the use of their simpler implements
of the chase and of warfare.
Continuing our difficult way, we at last emerged from the green
darkness of the forest and found ourselves within view of the
limestone rock or mountain in which are the marvellous bird's-nest
caves which we had come so far to see. The cliff presented a striking
effect, rising white and shining in the bright sunlight, slightly
veiled by the tall trees and creepers, the leaves of which shimmered
in the hot noontide haze. The dark entrance to the caves, stuffy as it
was, and obstructed by the curious framework of rattans on which the
nest-hunters sleep and cook and stow their arms, was a pleasant relief
to the heat and glare without. Still more welcome was the sight of the
coolies bringing refreshments and cooling drinks. If I, who had been
carried all the way in comparative luxury, felt glad to see them, it
can be imagined what must have been the feelings of the rest of the
party, including Mabelle, who had walked the whole distance, and
struggled gallantly over a most uncertain and treacherous forest
track. We were not able to get into the cave at the opening where the
men were encamped, and had to go some way round to another entrance.
From this point, each provided with a candle to light our way, we
advanced into the darkness, stumbling, sliding, and occasionally
falling on the slippery rocks, but still able to admire the noble
proportions of the caves, their lofty grandeur, and the fantastic
shapes of the limestone pillars by which the vaulted roof was
supported. The whirring, fluttering, and twittering of many birds and
bats could plainly be heard in the larger caves, which were densely
peopled with winged and feathered inhabitants, and the roofs and sides
of which were blackened by their nests. The Segama River, which we had
ascended earlier, flows through these vast caverns, sometimes over a
hard, stony bottom, but oftener over or through a mass of guano many
feet in thickness, into which our guides more than once sank suddenly,
emerging in a state which can be better imagined than described. Split
palms were laid across the most awkward places; but it was extremely
difficult to keep one's footing on this primitive causeway, and
despite the assistance of the gentlemen, who carried me across many
of the streams, it was impossible to escape an occasional wetting.
At one point the guides and leading members of the party, going on
rather too rapidly, left us in complete darkness, and after waiting
some time in the hope that they would discover their mistake and
return, we had no alternative but to struggle up a most fearful
precipice towards the only ray of light which we could see in the
distance. It really was hard work, not only on account of the
steepness of the ascent, but of the slippery and slimy condition of
the rocks. Sometimes we knocked ourselves with painful abruptness
against hard projections, at other times we sank to our knees in a
mass of soft, wet guano teeming with animal life of various kinds, but
mostly of the biting or stinging character. Mr. Crocker slipped and
fell down some thirty feet or so, but fortunately emerged unhurt,
though covered with black slime from the crown of his head to the sole
of his foot.
After tremendous exertions we reached the end of our climb, during
which I had been not only once but many times sorely tempted, and even
strongly urged, to turn back. When we paused to rest, our eyes, by
this time accustomed to the dim religious light, could perceive human
figures crawling and clambering about the roof and pinnacles of the
vast cavern in which we now found ourselves, and could observe many
narrow rattan ladders hanging in the most precipitous places, or
stretching horizontally across almost unfathomable abysses.
Fixed among the rocks on every side were strong hooks and pegs, to
which the intrepid monkey-like nest-hunters attach their long,
swinging ladders. Clinging to these, they proceed to prod all the
nests within reach with a long bamboo pole, split into the shape of a
three-pronged fork at one end, with a candle attached. They easily
detach the nests, and rapidly transfer them to a basket hanging by
their side. Having cleared the accessible space around them, they then
unhook one end of their frail ladders and set themselves swinging like
a pendulum, until they manage to catch another hook or peg, and then
proceed to clear another space in the same way.
All this goes on throughout the day, and very often throughout the
night as well, for the birds are then at home, and by their appearance
the natives can judge more accurately of the age of the nests, on
which their value depends. Occasionally, but not very often, a ladder
breaks or a peg becomes rotten, and the hardy climbers tumble into the
depths below, with almost invariably fatal results. The ladders
employed are sometimes, I was told, as much as 500 feet in length, and
we saw some ourselves over 150 feet long. Truly the seekers after
birds and their belongings, whether eggs, feathers, or nests, are a
daring race, alike on the storm-beaten cliffs of St. Kilda and of
Norway and in the mysterious caves of Borneo and of Java.
Imagine our disappointment when, after another severe effort, we
reached the fissure in the rock which admitted the light from above,
and found that it afforded no means of egress except for bats and
birds. Not even a Dyak or Sulu could have squeezed his way in or out
by it, and there was nothing for it but to retrace our steps.
Fortunately, however, we had not gone far before we met our guides
with lights coming at last to look for us, and they led us to a
comparatively easy exit from the cave; though in order to reach it we
had to pass over horrible morasses of guano, into which we were only
prevented from sinking by a path or bridge of two-inch palm stems
affording a most uncertain foothold. On the way we passed more
nest-hunters, and at the mouth of the cave we found another camp of
wooden framework huts, on the top of which lay several men smoking,
with their kreises, parongs, spears, and travelling-bags of matwork
beside them. They would not part with any of their weapons or
implements, even for more than four times their value, alleging that
it would bring them ill-luck to sell them while engaged in an
expedition, but adding that if we would go to their village, after
their return, they would not only sell but willingly give us anything
we might take a fancy to.
[Illustration: FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI]
In the course of our descent from the cave we came across ten or a
dozen bilian-wood coffins, which were excavated in this spot about
fifty years ago. They were of the plainest possible make, and were
evidently rapidly falling to pieces. It is thought that further
excavations will lead to the discovery of finer and older coffins, for
it is almost certain that wherever these caves exist they have been
extensively used at one time as primitive burial-places.
Arrived at last by the side of a clear running stream, we were glad to
take the opportunity of performing some much-needed ablutions, and to
rest for a while. How tired we all felt I need not attempt to say. It
required, indeed, a great effort of the will to take a few photographs
and to carefully pack the birds' eggs and nests which we had
collected, before resuming our journey.
We were all sorry when it was time to leave our pleasant halting-place
at Madai and start on our homeward way. The path through the jungle
was, however, delightfully shady, and was altogether easier than our
upward course. The last view of the cave, looking back from the little
hill facing it, just before entering the jungle, will always remain in
my mind, though I saw it somewhat hazily through the gauze veil in
which my head was wrapped up, in order to protect me from the hornets,
which had already stung several of our party severely.
I have before now been in tropical forests and jungles, and they
always produce the same awe-inspiring, and indeed depressing effect.
The almost solid green walls on either side of the narrow track; the
awful stillness which prevails, only occasionally broken, or rendered
more intense, by the shrill note of a bird, the cry, or rather pitiful
wail, of a monkey, the crashing of some larger creature through the
dense undergrowth, as well as the profound solitude, will easily
account for these feelings. Having overcome my first sensation of
nervousness, caused by constant slips and slides on the part of my
bearers, I had an excellent opportunity for contemplation until, in
little less than two hours after leaving our last halting-place, we
reached a spot close to where we had landed.
[Illustration: Sulus at Silam]
It was delightful to find that in our absence a charming little house
had, by a piece of kind forethought, been built for us on the banks of
the clear running stream. Raised as if by an enchanter's wand, this
hut in the jungle was an inestimable comfort, and enabled us to rest
quietly for a short time. At first it was proposed that we should
certainly dine and possibly sleep in it; but when it was remembered
that, pleasant and picturesque as might be the situation, we were
still in the midst of a malarious mangrove swamp, prudent
considerations prevailed, and it was decided to move on. After giving
time, therefore, to the coolies to cook and eat their well-earned
repast, everything was put into the prahu, which lay half in and half
out of the water. Mabelle and I then seated ourselves in the centre of
the boat, while everybody else pushed and shouted; some walking, some
wading, some occasionally swimming. Thus we proceeded down the shallow
stream, the prahu frequently on her beam-ends on one side or the
other, until righted by friendly hands; shipping comparatively little
water, but still taking in enough to make everything damp and
uncomfortable.
[Illustration: Returning at Low Water]
It was a curious sight, the long boat, pushed by fifty or sixty
natives and about a dozen Europeans, now in the water, now almost out
of it. More than once I thought the natives must have been jammed
between the bank and the boat when they slipped into a deep hole, and
the great length of the prahu prevented her from turning quickly. At
the nest-hunters' landing-place we found ourselves fairly high and
dry, and had to be carried, prahu and all, for some little distance
until we reached the deeper water beyond, only to find our further
passage blocked by the trunk of a huge tree, so firmly imbedded in the
mud that the united efforts of our large band of followers were
powerless to move it. We had therefore to be pulled and hauled over
the obstacle--a feat accomplished with much shouting and hullabaloo.
First our long sharp prow rose in the air, submerging our stern, and
taking, of course, some water on board; then the process was reversed,
and we went bows under. At last we emerged quite safely and in deep
water. Most of the swarm of swimmers quickly scrambled into the boat
and converted themselves into paddlers, while the remainder swam
ashore and either waited on the bank for the return of the prahu or
shouldered their kajang mats and cooking-utensils, and trudged off
again through the swampy jungle to the little rest-house which we had
quitted a short time before. In the fast-fading twilight the scene
looked picturesque and characteristic.
Resuming our now rapid voyage down the stream, we presently reached
the spot where our own boats were waiting for us. Mabelle and I at
once took possession of the cutter, the gentlemen of the steam-launch,
and all proceeded, as far as circumstances would allow, to change our
wet and dirty clothes. Then we joined company, and as soon as the
prahu had discharged all her passengers and cargo our little flotilla
proceeded in the original order down the river. On the way we enjoyed
a capital little dinner, commencing with small fish about three inches
long speared by a boat-hook, and concluding with quite the most
delicious pine I ever tasted, grown in the experimental gardens of
Silam.
At last we reached the mouth of the river, and were once more on the
bosom of the open sea. Rather an agitated bosom it was too, just now,
heaving in such a manner as to toss the cutter about a good deal and
threatening to completely upset the native boat with its heavy load.
In fact, the prahu behaved in the most alarming manner, absolutely
refusing to steer, and turning broadside on to the constantly
increasing swell. Our native pilot, too, in the steam-launch, did not
mend matters by steering a very erratic course, and going a good deal
further out to sea than was necessary. The islands, however, soon
afforded shelter, and the moon rose over a scene of comparative
calmness and repose. Most of us took advantage of this condition of
things to rest a little after the labours of the day, and we found
ourselves actually alongside the yacht before we had any idea we were
near her. It was exactly half an hour after midnight, and Tom was
delighted and greatly relieved to see us, having quite abandoned all
hope of our appearing until the morning, and having conjured up all
sorts of gloomy forebodings as to the ill-effect of sleeping in
mangrove swamps, besides attacks from hostile natives, and other
horrors. The three gentlemen went off in our launch, towing the prahu,
after receiving our warm thanks for the great trouble which they had
taken, to which we were entirely indebted for the success of a most
interesting expedition. With a grateful heart for pleasure enjoyed and
difficulties overcome, I went to bed, completely worn out, at the end
of what may fairly be regarded as another red-letter day of the
present cruise.
Tom had been unable to accompany us on our expedition, considering it
a public duty to put together the very interesting information which
had been communicated to him by the authorities charged with the
administration of affairs at the numerous ports at which we had
touched on the coast of Borneo. He wished to complete his work, so
that it might be read to Governor Treacher before being despatched to
England. [This paper appeared in the 'Nineteenth Century.']
[Illustration: Dutch Fort, Macassar]