_COLOMBO._
_March 5th._--At 9.30 A.M. we dropped anchor in the harbour of
Colombo, having come twelve miles under sail between noon and 11 P.M.
yesterday, and ninety-eight since we began steaming.
Colombo seems to have grown and improved since we were here ten years
ago. We were soon comfortably established in the new and splendid
Oriental Hotel, and busy with letters and newspapers.
In the afternoon we did some necessary shopping beneath the welcome
shade of the hotel arcades. Later, as soon as the air had become a
little cooler, we drove along the sea-front, called Galle Face, and
enjoyed the delicious sea-breeze. Everybody seemed to be out,
driving, riding, or walking. In one spot officers and soldiers were
playing cricket and football as energetically as if they had been on
Woolwich Common.
We passed a horse-dealer's establishment, containing, beneath a long
row of red shanties, a very decent-looking lot of ponies of various
kinds, some of which were being trotted out for the inspection of a
circle of possible purchasers. Every bungalow seemed to be provided
with one or two tennis-grounds, and all had players on them. When at
last, by a charming drive, we reached the formerly forsaken-looking
Cinnamon Gardens, we found some lawn-tennis grounds established in
their midst, as well as a fine museum surrounded by a well-kept
garden. In fact, the appearance of the whole place has been completely
changed since we last saw it.
On our way back we were overtaken by a funeral procession. First came
two of the quaint little bullock-carts peculiar to Ceylon, drawn by
the small oxen of the country, both carts being literally crammed full
of people, apparently in the highest spirits. Then followed a long,
low, open vehicle, rather like a greengrocer's van painted black. In
the rear of the procession was another bullock-cart, fuller than ever
of joyous mourners, and drawn by such a tiny animal that he seemed to
be quite unable to keep up with his larger rivals, though urged to his
utmost speed by the cries and shouts of the occupants of the cart.
Altogether, anything more cheerful and less like one's ordinary
conception of a funeral procession I never saw.
Our homeward road lay partly through jungle, the track crossing
various small streams fringed with vegetation so tropical in character
that each little river might have been a miniature Amazon. Presently
we came to the Lotus Tank, full of handsome white double water-lilies
on erect stems, with lotus-like centres, though they are not the real
lotus flower. A hundred people sat down to dinner at the hotel, among
whom were one or two old friends. When dinner was over we all
adjourned on board the 'Sunbeam,' and later Tom took them back to
their steamer, the 'Sirocco,' the largest vessel of the Messageries
Maritimes fleet.
[Illustration: Buddhist Priest]
_March 6th._--We were called at 4.30 A.M., to enable us to start by
the seven o'clock train for Kandy. After a great bustle, we found
ourselves at the station, only to be told that the time of the
departure of the train had been changed to 7.35. The beauty of the
journey by rail up to Kandy in the cool air of the early morning quite
compensated us for the inconvenience of so early a start. A
comfortable saloon carriage, with luxurious armchairs, had been
attached to the train for our use, besides a well-arranged
refreshment car, in which civil waiters served an excellently prepared
meal.
After leaving Colombo we passed through vast fields of paddy, some
covered with the stubble of the recently cut rice, while others were
being prepared for a new crop by such profuse irrigation that the
buffaloes seemed to be ploughing knee-deep through the thick, oozy
soil. It was easy to understand how unhealthy must be the task of
cultivating a rice-field, and what swampy and pestiferous odours must
arise from the brilliant vegetation. 'Green as grass' is a feeble
expression to those familiar with the dazzling verdure of a
paddy-field. Grain cultivation in Ceylon does not, however, appear to
be a very profitable occupation, and seems to be pursued by the
natives for sentimental rather than for practical reasons. Sir C.P.
Layard, who was for many years Governor of the Western Province, has
stated that 'the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit
to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit,
and because the value of time and labour never enters into his
calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a
Cingalese, the most honourable of callings.' All the grain grown in
Ceylon is consumed in the island, and the supply has to be largely
supplemented by imports from India and elsewhere.
After our train had ascended, almost imperceptibly, to a considerable
height, we came to the Valley of Death, so called because of the
enormous mortality among the workmen employed upon this portion of the
railway. Thence we passed through scenes of wondrous beauty to
Rambukkana, where the train really begins to climb, and has to be
drawn and pushed by two engines--one in front and one behind. It would
be wearisome even to name the various types of tropical vegetation
which we passed; but we thought ourselves fortunate in seeing a
talipot palm in full bloom, with its magnificent spike of yellowish
flowers rising some twenty feet above a noble crown of dark green
fan-shaped leaves. This sight is uncommon, for the trees never bloom
till they are seventy or eighty years old, and then die directly.
[Illustration: Talipot Palm]
Just before arriving at Peradeniya, the new line branches off to
Nanu-oya, 128 miles from Colombo, and 5,300 feet above the sea-level.
Nuwarra-Ellia is reached in about four hours from this, the line
passing through some of the richest and best of the tea- and
quinine-growing estates--formerly covered with coffee plantations. The
horrid coffee-leaf fungus, _Hemileia vastatrix_--the local equivalent
of the phylloxera, or of the Colorado beetle--has ruined half the
planters in Ceylon, although there seems to be a fair prospect of a
good crop this year, not only of coffee but of everything else.
There are over six hundred thousand acres of ground under rice
cultivation in Ceylon, as compared with 130,000 acres of coffee,
175,000 acres of tea, 650,000 acres of palms, and 35,000 acres of
cinchona. Cinnamon and other spices, besides tobacco, cacao, and other
trees and plants, are also more or less extensively grown.
Sugar-cultivation has proved a failure, probably owing to the too
great dampness of the climate.
The Satinwood Bridge at Peradeniya, across the Mahaweliganga, seemed
quite a familiar friend; though the old Englishman who for so many
years washed the sand of the river in search of gems is dead and gone.
In the afternoon I went to keep my appointment with Dr. Trimen, the
present curator of the gardens, and successor to our friend Dr.
Thwaites. The group of india-rubber trees outside the gate, and the
palms just within the enclosure, were old acquaintances, and looked as
graceful as ever. Close by stood a magnificent _Amherstia nobilis_ in
full bloom, its great tresses of vermilion flowers spotted with
yellow, hanging in gorgeous profusion among its bright glossy leaves.
In Burmah these flowers are laid upon the altars in front of the
images of Buddha as a sacred offering. Dr. Trimen appears to feel the
greatest pride in the management of the garden, and he took much
trouble to show us all there was time to see. The principal trees,
shrubs, and plants have been labelled, so that he who runs may read. A
good deal of vegetation has also been cut down and cleared away, and
the more valuable specimens of trees stand boldly out on the grassy
lawns. The present curator has erected a charming little summer-house,
in the form of a Kandyan temple, in memory of Dr. Thwaites and his
thirty successful years of office. It stands on a small knoll,
surrounded by the fragrant bushes of the jessamine-like _Plumieria_,
which is also known as the temple-flower, and is regarded as sacred.
We scarcely got back in time to dress for dinner at the Pavilion, as
they call the Governor's residence here. The children were tired, and
went to bed. Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz, and I therefore started
without them, and arrived punctually at eight o'clock. Lord and Lady
Aberdeen were of the party, which included a good many interesting
people. The table was decorated with lovely ferns, and no less than
seventy-two vases of sunflowers! The effect of the servants' liveries
was quaint and decidedly picturesque, and I believe the fashion in
which they are made is very old. The smartly cut, long swallow-tail
black coat, profusely braided with red and yellow, is worn over a
snowy white cloth wrapped round the waist and reaching to the feet,
and the smooth hair is kept in its place by a large circular comb at
the top of the head. Out of doors, a gracefully carried umbrella is
the sole protection from the sun.
[Illustration: Seychelles Palm]
_March 7th._--The morning broke misty, foggy, and decidedly cold for
our early start back to Colombo. We found this change rather trying
after the heat through which we have been voyaging. We left at eight,
relying upon breakfast in the train; but in this hope we were
disappointed, and had to content ourselves with biscuits and some
rather unripe fruit; for the breakfast-car is only attached to upward
trains, to suit travellers from Colombo who want to make the trip to
Nuwarra-Ellia or to Kandy and back in one day. The scenery was so
lovely, however, that there was plenty to occupy and distract our
minds, and we were able to do all the more justice to our good lunch
when we reached the comfortable Galle Face Hotel.
There was a great deal of business still to be done at Colombo,
including the engagement of a new under-cook, the purchase of
additional cool clothing for the crew, and the laying in of fresh
stores and provisions. It was therefore not until the evening that we
were able to start upon a little expedition, I in a jinrikisha, Tom on
foot, followed by another jinrikisha, into which, to the great
amusement of the group of lookers-on, he insisted on putting our
interpreter, or 'English-speak-man,' as he calls himself.
[Illustration: Governor's Peon, Kandy]
There is always, to my mind, something supremely ludicrous in the
sight of a half-naked individual trudging gaily along under an
umbrella in pouring rain. His clothes cannot be spoiled, for he wears
none; and one would think that his body must long ago have been
acclimatised to every degree of moisture. The natives of Ceylon get
over the difficulty very well by gathering one of the many beautifully
spotted large caladium leaves which abound in the roadside ditches.
For a time it serves its purpose, combining utility with elegance, and
when the shower is over it is thrown away. I have also seen these
leaves used as sunshades, but they do not answer so well in this
capacity, for they wither directly and become limp and drooping. We
had a pleasant stroll through the town and outskirts, exploring some
lovely little nooks and corners full of tropical foliage. Colombo
seems to be progressing, and to have benefited greatly by the railway.
[Illustration: Cingalese Weapons]
We went to the station to meet the train from Nuwarra-Ellia, by which
the children were expected to arrive, but, as the time-tables have
just been altered, we found ourselves too early. The interval was
pleasantly filled, however, by an instructive and interesting little
chat with the traffic-manager. At last the train appeared, and with it
the children, who expressed great delight at the procession of six
real Japanese jinrikishas which we had organised to convey them and
the rest of the party from the station to the hotel.
During the day we had heard that several old friends happened to be at
Colombo, so we convened them all to dinner. Their number included Mr.
Macbean and Captain Middleton, of the old 93rd, both of whom had been
married since we last met them, and Colonel Carey, a Rugby friend of
Tom's, now commanding the Engineers here.
We have had great difficulty to-day in obtaining possession of a box
sent on to us from Bombay. I left orders yesterday that it was to be
obtained from the shipping-agents this morning, but it was only after
an infinity of trouble to ourselves and to the people on shore, who
had locked up their offices and gone home, that we were able to get
hold of it this evening. At last everything and everybody were
collected on board; our usual parting gifts of books and newspapers to
barracks, hospitals, and schools were sent ashore, and we steamed
slowly out of the harbour and round the breakwater. Then 'Full speed
ahead' was the order given, and once more we left the lights and
luxuries of land behind us and sailed forth into the soft tropic
twilight.
[Illustration: Point de Galle]
_Tuesday, March 8th._--It was 1.10 A.M. as we passed the lighthouse.
I stayed on deck until the land seemed to be swallowed up in the
darkness; but when I came up again at 6 A.M. we were still running
along the coast, near enough to see some of its beauties, though not
so close as to make it possible to appreciate the exquisite loveliness
of the Bay of Galle. Once the principal port of call for all the most
important lines of steamers, the town of Galle is now comparatively
deserted, and the charms of the neighbouring country are unknown to
the modern traveller. The difficulties of landing there were always
great during the monsoon period, and more facilities having been
afforded at Colombo by the construction of Sir John Coode's great
breakwater, all the steamers now make use of that port to take in
water, coal, and provisions.
At noon we had run 95 miles, and Trincomalee was 244 miles distant. At
10 P.M. we passed inside the Great Bass Rock, and afterwards the
smaller Bass Rock.
_Wednesday, March 9th._--At noon to-day 184 miles had been made, and
Trincomalee is only now twenty miles ahead. We had passed Batticaloa,
the capital of one of the divisions of the island, and early in the
morning saw the celebrated rock called 'Westminster Abbey,' which is
curiously like that grand old pile, especially when the two pinnacles
are seen from a distance. As you pass it to the northward the
resemblance gradually becomes lost.
The sun was sinking fast when we shaped our course for the entrance to
the harbour of Trincomalee. I was on the topgallant forecastle with
Tom, and most delightful it was in that airy position. A fisherman in
a curious little catamaran boat offered his services as pilot; and
though they were not required we stopped, intending to ask him to come
on board and have a chat; but he was lazy with the oars, and before he
had come alongside our patience was exhausted. The moon now began to
show her light, while the stars twinkled overhead; and the two
lighthouses--one on either hand--sent forth rays which glistened on
the calm surface of the water. I half regretted the departure of the
daylight, for I should have liked to have seen more plainly the
entrance to this wonderful harbour, pronounced by Nelson to be one of
the finest in the world; but, on the other hand, the exquisite beauty
of the scene made up for its want of distinctness. The glorious full
moon, gaining power, shone into every creek and cranny, and beamed
brilliantly over the water as we steamed ahead, until at last we
dropped anchor off the dockyard of Trincomalee. Just previously, from
the little fort above, had come loud shouts of 'Sunbeam, ahoy!' and
then many hearty cheers burst from the throats of the artillerymen and
engineers who are quartered there.
[Illustration: Trincomalee Harbour]
After dinner Tom and I went for a row in the 'Flash,' and explored
the harbour by moonlight. There was a good deal of singing at a row of
cottages ashore, where, I suppose, the dockyard labourers live. Even
the workshops looked quite romantic, covered as their rough walls were
by palms, creepers, and other tropical vegetation. We went on towards
the Admiral's house, passing through the submarine mining flotilla,
which looked singularly out of place among these picturesque
surroundings. The night was absolutely perfect; the moonlight on the
water, the distant mountains, the near forts, and the white sandy
beach, all making up an ideal picture of tropical beauty and repose.
Shortly after we had come to an anchor, Mr. Black, the assistant naval
storekeeper, arrived on board, bringing with him kind letters from Sir
Frederick Richards, the commander-in-chief of the East India station,
offering us his house and garden whilst we remain here. The 'Jumna,'
which brought these letters, left four days ago; and the 'Bacchante,'
Sir Frederick's flagship, is not expected for a week; so that we have
just missed both, greatly to our disappointment. Mr. Black kindly
promises to meet us again to-morrow, and to pilot us to the famous hot
springs at Kanniya and to the alligator tank.
_March 10th._--At 6 A.M. we all went on shore, and were met by Mr.
Black with sundry little gharries and tum-tums, into which we soon
packed--all except Tom, who remained behind to inspect the dockyard.
The harbour looked finer in some ways, though perhaps not so poetic as
by moonlight. We could see more of the landscape; and as we drove
along a good road skirting the bay the peeps through the foliage were
lovely. After passing the Admiral's house we drove, through a
straggling village embosomed in trees, to the post-office, where we
deposited a mail which, to judge from the astonished looks of the
officials, must have been much larger than they usually receive. It
certainly was somewhat voluminous, consisting as it did of letters,
books, manuscripts, legal documents, and newspapers. It would have to
be carried some eighty miles by runners to reach the mail-coach, and
then travel another hundred miles before being deposited in the train;
so that I fear it will give some trouble. The poor letter-carriers are
bound to take any parcel weighing eleven pounds. I suppose an extra
man will have to be employed for our mail, but this cannot be a
serious matter where wages are so cheap.
[Illustration: Jumping Fish (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_)]
From the post-office our way lay through a dense jungle, but still
along a good road, where many birds of brilliant plumage and sweet
song flew gaily before us or perched on the telegraph wires alongside.
Jungle-cock ran in and out across the road. They are rather
good-looking birds, something like a very 'gamey' domestic fowl, with
a fine upstanding tail.
Our progress was greatly delayed by the eccentricities of Mr. Black's
pony. He always stood still when we met anything, stopping so abruptly
as almost to shoot us out of the gharry. Then, having once halted, he
refused to move on again without much urging and coaxing. Before going
down hill he planted his feet obstinately on the ground, declining to
proceed; and at the bottom of an ascent he turned short round. If a
bird flew suddenly out of the jungle he jumped over into the opposite
ditch, and many times _nearly_, though never _quite_, upset us. After
these performances, I was not surprised to hear that this pony had
never been in harness before.
At last we reached the hot springs, seven in number, where we found a
temple and other little buildings close by. The water bubbles up
through square and round holes, and was so hot (115 deg.) that it was
almost impossible to bear one's hand in it; but we caught two little
turtles swimming gaily about. The curious 'sea-horses,' which carry
their young in their mouths, are said to live in the streams running
from the springs.
While waiting for the rest of the party to arrive I took several
photographs. We sent a native up a tree for fresh cocoa-nuts, and,
having climbed in the orthodox manner, with feet tied together, he
threw us down nuts, green and smooth, full of deliciously cool clear
milk, with a thick creamy coating inside, most grateful to the palate.
After taking more photographs, some of the party set out for the
alligator tank, where the probability of seeing any alligators seemed
so doubtful, that, as a long and fatiguing walk was much more certain,
I thought it better to undertake, instead of accompanying them, to
drive a pair of jibbing ponies back to Trincomalee.
On the way back we saw an opening made in the dense jungle by the
passage of an elephant, which had evidently crushed through into the
road since we had passed. Wild elephants are very numerous
hereabouts, and a hundred were killed not long since by one sportsman
in a comparatively short time. Another hunter made great preparations
for sport, and spent a considerable time in the neighbourhood waiting
his opportunity, but, after failing to get a single shot, determined
to return by bullock-cart and coach to Kandy. At one of the
rest-houses he was cleaning and putting away his rifle, when some
excited coolies rushed in and begged him to kill a rogue-elephant
which they had caught sight of quietly walking down the road. The
sportsman accordingly took up his position behind a tree, and killed
the huge beast quite easily. The carcase remained in the road for
several weeks, poisoning the atmosphere and rendering the rest-house
almost uninhabitable, until at last an official of rank, passing that
way, gave orders for it to be burnt, which was promptly done by the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who had nearly arrived at the
conclusion that the possible attacks of a live elephant were a less
serious matter than the certain ill-effects of the proximity of a dead
animal. To me, independently of the sanitary aspect of the case, it
appears a sad pity and an altogether wasteful proceeding to massacre
so powerful a beast, with such capabilities of usefulness, as an
elephant, simply for the sake of amusement; for neither hide, feet,
tail, nor bones are of much, if of any, value, and it would surely be
better to catch and tame the poor creatures if possible.
Arrived on board the yacht, I found Tom just returned from a long
examination of the dockyard and naval establishment. The remainder of
the party appeared later on, all rather exhausted, and disappointed at
not having seen any alligators. They were, however, laden with lovely
lotus-like water-lilies, collected during a pleasant little paddle on
the tank in a very leaky canoe.
During the morning we had many visitors on board, all profuse in kind
offers of hospitality, and desirous of doing everything to make our
brief stay agreeable. The children went back with the ladies to spend
the afternoon at the fort, while Tom and Mabelle landed to play
lawn-tennis.
About five o'clock Major Nash called and took us for a drive on the
heights, from which there was a fine view across the bay and harbour
beneath us. This island originally belonged to the Dutch, by whom it
was ceded to us; and it has since been used as a club and
recreation-ground for the officers. Several pleasant bungalows have
been established, and a good breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, can be
obtained at a moment's notice. The old account-books kept by those in
charge of the mess bungalow are still preserved, and many a now
celebrated name may be seen entered therein.
We went to Mr. Millett's house to see what he called a tame cheetah,
but which was really a wild panther--a handsome little beast, who
became greatly excited when the dogs appeared on the scene. We also
saw a tiny crocodile, only a month old, in an earthenware pan, which
snapped and hissed and flapped his tail, and was altogether as angry
as any creature of his diminutive size could well be, making it quite
clear that only the power--not the will--to eat us all up was wanting.
There are many crocodiles in these lakes and streams, and they
occasionally carry incautious people off, especially the women who go
to the tanks to fill their water-jars.
Mr. Millett had also quite a large collection of elephants' heads,
tails, and feet--the spoils of a recent shooting expedition. These
trophies seemed to give one a better idea of the immense size of the
elephant than the sight of the animal itself. It was most interesting
to be able to handle and to examine closely their great bones, though
I felt sad to see the remains of so many huge beasts sacrificed just
for the love of killing something. They had not even been tuskers, so
that, unless their heads and feet were used for mere decorations, I
do not see that their slaughter could have answered any useful end.
[Illustration: Sami Rock]
We next drove to the Admiral's house--a charmingly-placed dwelling,
with one end for each monsoon (south-west from April to September,
north-east from November to February). A well-cared-for garden
encircles it, full of valuable plants and flowers; and the view over
the bay is wide and lovely. We went through the barracks, and then
walked, or rather climbed, up to the signal station, below which a new
fort is being made which will carry heavy guns. Close by is a curious
old Dutch graveyard, with a few quaint English monuments in it, dating
from the beginning of the century. The way was long and the road
rough; but still we climbed on and on to reach the famous Sami Rock,
which rises sheer from the sea, and is a sacred spot for Hindoos, who
have come here by thousands to worship for many centuries. Behind the
rock stands a small monument, erected in memory of a young Portuguese
lady, who, having seen her lover's ship leave the harbour and
disappear below the horizon, threw herself in despair from the cliff.
The sun had now set, and the night was calm and brilliant; but so
powerful had been the sun's rays that the rocks burnt our feet as we
walked, and made it impossible to sit down. We returned to lower
levels much more quickly than we had ascended; but I felt very tired
before we got back to the gharries, and was only too glad to 'rest and
be thankful' until the others arrived and were ready to start. They
had had a delightful afternoon, and had caught several walking-fish (a
kind of perch), after seeing them both walk and swim; besides
gathering more lotus-flowers, and enjoying several good games at
lawn-tennis.
The drive to the boats, behind Major Nash's fast-trotting pony, was
all too short, and the time for the inevitable farewells came but too
quickly. Steam was up when we got on board, and in a few minutes we
were leaving this beautiful harbour behind us, exactly twenty-four
hours after we had entered it, and under almost precisely the same
conditions of wind and weather. Trincomalee is certainly a noble
harbour, but Tom is strongly of opinion that it would be more valuable
in the hands of the Indian Government than under the Admiralty.
_Friday, March 11th._--We had intended to go south of the Andaman
Islands, so as to be able to call at Port Blair, the convict station
where poor Lord Mayo was assassinated by the convict Shere Ali during
his official visit in 1872. The sailing-directions, however, gave such
a terrible account of the malarious climate of the whole group of
islands, the savage character of the inhabitants, and the size and
number of the many venomous reptiles, that we reluctantly decided to
continue our voyage straight to Burmah without stopping. We
accordingly passed to the northward of the Andaman group, making what
is called 'The Cocos' our first landfall.
At noon we had steamed 140 miles, and were in lat. 9 deg. 44' N. and long.
83 deg. 3' E., Great Coco being 607 miles distant.
_Saturday, March 12th._--Another calm day, busily occupied in reading
and writing. At noon we had steamed 184 miles, and were 471 miles
distant from Great Coco, in lat. 10 deg. 49' N. and long. 87 deg. 1' E.
_Sunday, March 13th._--We had the Litany at 11.30, and evening service
later, with most successful Chants, the result of much practising
yesterday and on Friday. At noon we had steamed 195 miles, and were in
lat. 12 deg. 16' N. and long. 88 deg. 55' E. Great Coco distant 278 miles.
[Illustration: Coco Island Light]
_Monday, March 14th._--There was a nice breeze in the early morning,
and sails were accordingly set. At 9 A.M. we ceased steaming, and
proceeded under sail alone. At noon we had run 181 miles, and were
distant 97 miles from Great Coco.
_Tuesday, March 15th._--Little Coco was sighted at daylight. Later on
we saw all the other islands of the Preparis group in succession, and
were able to congratulate ourselves on having made a good landfall. At
noon we had sailed 120 miles, and were in lat. 14 deg. 5' N. and long.
93 deg. 29' E., the Krisha Shoal being distant 150 miles.
In the evening we had our first nautical entertainment since we have
all been on board together. It proved a real success, and appeared to
afford great enjoyment to all, the credit being mostly due to Mabelle
and the Doctor, who took an immense deal of trouble to make everything
go off properly, and were well rewarded by the universal appreciation
of their exertions. I am sure that these amusements do good in
relieving the unavoidable tedium and monotony of a long voyage.
_Wednesday, March 16th._--Soundings were taken at frequent intervals
throughout the morning, for we were uncertain as to the strength of
the currents, and could not see far ahead, as the sky was both
overcast and misty. About noon Tom got an observation, and found that
we were in lat. 15 deg. 28' N. and long. 95 deg. 40' E., having sailed 140
miles during the past twenty-four hours. The Krisha Shoal was then
about ten miles to the N.W.
Towards five o'clock I was reading quietly on deck, when I was
startled by an appalling shriek, followed by a good deal of commotion
forward. A moment afterwards I saw poor Pitt bleeding profusely from
his right hand. Having sent for the Doctor and some ice, I got hold of
the wrist, and bound it up as best I could until the Doctor appeared,
who then proceeded with his instruments to tie the arteries properly
and to sew up the wounds. While opening some soda-water for the
children one of the bottles burst in the poor man's hand, cutting five
arteries and nearly blowing off the top of his second finger. It was a
ghastly business altogether, and although he bore it bravely he could
not help crying out occasionally. I stood it all pretty well till just
at the end, and then fainted, which was stupid; but sitting in the sun
in a cramped position, with such sights and sounds was rather trying.
It was a comfort to know that I was able to be of some use at first.
At 7.45 P.M. we made Point Baragu Light, and at 10 P.M. sail was
shortened, for by this time we were rushing along before a strong,
fair wind, and did not quite know how far it might carry us by
daylight. After dark the sea was brilliantly lit up by millions of
minute nautilidae, and from time to time we passed through shoals of
large medusae, increasing and decreasing the light which they emitted
as they opened or closed their feelers, to propel themselves through
the water. They looked like myriads of incandescent lamps floating
just below the surface of the water and illuminating everything as
they passed with I do not know how many thousand or million
candle-power. The effect was indeed fairy-like, and one felt reluctant
to go below so long as there was even the faintest chance of seeing
another blazing shoal.
Fortunately, the description of the China Bakeer pilot-brig given in
the sailing-directions is very precise and clear, or a wretched little
native boat, on the look-out for a job, might have imposed herself
upon us as the genuine craft, and have got us into serious trouble.
The shoals hereabouts are numerous and the water generally is shallow.
This native craft was rigged very much like an ordinary pilot-boat,
and flew a huge ensign at the main until dark, besides burning enough
blue lights, flash-lights, and flare-lights afterwards to draw any
ship from her safe course. It would therefore not have been surprising
if we had allowed ourselves to be misled by her. We heard afterwards
that only a few days ago she nearly led H.M.S. 'Jumna' on to a
dangerous shoal.
[Illustration: Entrance to Caves at Moulmein]