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[Transcriber's Note: Many illustration captions are missing from the
original. These have been added in as they appear in the List of
Illustrations, and all captions have been conformed to the List of
Illustrations.
The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns
(e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba;
Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear
in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been
corrected; where it is not clear whether something is an error, a
Transcriber's Note has been inserted in the text.]
THE LAST VOYAGE,
TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,
IN THE 'SUNBEAM.'
BY THE LATE
LADY BRASSEY.
_ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS._
The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in
monotone by E. NISTER, of Nuremberg.
The wood engravings in the text are executed by EDWARD WHYMPER, J.D.
COOPER, and G. PEARSON.
PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON
[Illustration: CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT "SUNBEAM" FROM NOV.
1886 TO DEC. 1887.]
[Illustration: 'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886]
[Illustration: THE LAST VOYAGE
[signature] Annie Brassey
1887.]
_Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,
That brings our friends up from the underworld;
Sad as the last which reddens over one
That sinks with all we love below the verge;
So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!_
LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
1889
_All rights reserved_
Preface.
In giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one
of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and
but little explanation.
A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in
its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend--then Mrs.
Brassey--asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had
kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This
assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at
reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often
felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in
order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was
a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of
opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of
the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer
of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which
both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could
offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her
life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'
The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not be dwelt on
here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than
any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works,
also well received and well known to the public, followed during the
next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now
comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos
and sadness all its own.
I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration
and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid
the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so
unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so
soon.
On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord
Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes,
knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and
believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage
of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the
writer's wishes.
My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only
do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion
made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes
themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes
me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm
which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every
port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of
all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been
my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body
above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call
attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown
in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John
Ambulance Association all over the world. It will be seen that the
last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's
heart.
I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the
first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands,
instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from
Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every
word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed--for
that could easily be supplied from other sources--but in the fact of
its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the
moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an
interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller.
After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are
resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the
public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless
weakness, too private and sacred for publication. They extend up to
September 10th, only four days before the end.
No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and
it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All
through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in
the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and
printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed
myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this
is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the
MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public
utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only
to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found
in the Appendix.
Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly
feeling between herself and her readers all over the world. It has
been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate
understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir
compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days
following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read
with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant
chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always
seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy
her facilities for going about and seeing everything.
I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind
help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in
verifying dates and names of places.
M.A. BROOME.
LONDON: _March_ 1888.
Contents.
CHAPTER PAGE
MEMOIR xiii
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 1
I. BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE 9
II. HYDERABAD AND POONA 34
III. BOMBAY 56
IV. BOMBAY TO GOA 73
V. COLOMBO 97
VI. RANGOON 120
VII. LABUAN 155
VIII. ELEOPURA 175
IX. CELEBES 203
X. WESTERN AUSTRALIA 229
XI. ALBANY TO ADELAIDE 251
XII. ADELAIDE 269
XIII. VICTORIA 287
XIV. NEW SOUTH WALES 309
XV. NEW SOUTH WALES (_continued_) 325
XVI. QUEENSLAND 339
XVII. THE EAST COAST 367
XVIII. EAST COAST (_continued_) 391
XIX. PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND 409
APPENDIX 427
INDEX 479
List of Illustrations.
_FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS._
'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886 _Frontispiece_
PORT SAID COALING-PARTY _To face page_ 1
ELEPHANTA CAVES " 18
PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT " 26
EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH " 40
PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE " 62
RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT " 70
BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES " 84
MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER " 132
SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR " 140
SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH'S FORT " 148
FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER " 162
ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI " 184
FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI " 196
KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET " 210
BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA " 226
TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA " 244
NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR " 306
ABORIGINES IN CAMP " 370
ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA " 422
_ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT._
PAGE
TITLE-PAGE
EVENTIDE xiii
EVENING PRAYER 1
PORTSMOUTH, H.M.S. 'HERCULES' 2
TANKS AT ADEN 3
KURRACHEE HARBOUR 5
THE MIRS FALCONER 5
BOKHARA MAN 6
GOING TO DINNER 6
OUR HOME ON WHEELS 7
JUBILEE ILLUMINATIONS, BOMBAY 9
CROSSING THE INDUS 10
SHIKARPUR BAZAAR 11
SUKHUR BRIDGE, INDUS 12
OLD SUKHUR 13
TEMPLE OF THE SUN, MOOLTAN 14
RUNJEET SINGH'S TOMB, LAHORE 15
CANON, MURREE 16
AFGHANS AT JAMRUD 17
JAMRUD FORT 18
CAMEL-GUNS AND STANDARD 18
CABUL NATIVE, LAHORE 19
LAHORE 19
CAMEL TEAM 20
AMRITSAR 20
PATIALA ELEPHANTS 21
'CROSS-COUNTRY 22
ELEPHANTS DRINKING 22
MOUNTING 22
THE KUTUB MINAR 23
BASE OF KUTUB MINAR 24
OLD DELHI AND WEAPONS 25
ULWAR 26
PALACE IN THE ULWAR FORT 27
SAR-BAHR, GWALIOR 28
GROUP OF NATIVES 29
WATER-CARRIER, BENARES 30
NERBUDDA RIVER--MARBLE ROCKS 31
MEARI, THE LAST OF THE THUGS 31
TEMPLE AT ELLORA 32
THE FORT, POONAH 34
GUN ROCK 36
ONE-TREE HILL 37
MIR ALAM, HYDERABAD 38
CHEETAH-CART 40
DEATH OF THE BUCK 41
MOSQUE ENTRANCE 44
THE HAMYAN JUMP, DELHI 48
NO COAL 51
INTERIOR, DELHI 53
BENGAL LANCER--RAWUL PINDI 56
THE GHAUTS, BOMBAY 58
BODYGUARD AND PEON, MALABAR POINT 60
THE APOLLO BUNDER 65
BOMBAY HARBOUR 67
OMNIBUS-HORSE TOPE 68
HINDOO GIRL 69
AT THE CHILDREN'S BALL 70
THE ARCH OF THE VICEROYS, GOA 73
JINJEERA FORT 75
OFF RATNAGIRI 77
VINGORA ROCKS 79
VINGORA LIGHTHOUSE 81
PORTUGUESE ROWLOCK 82
CAPE GOA ENTRANCE 83
ST. XAVIER, GOA 87
INQUISITION STAKE, GOA 89
VIEW IN CEYLON 97
BUDDHIST PRIEST 99
TALIPOT PALM 101
SEYCHELLES PALM 103
GOVERNOR'S PEON, KANDY 104
CINGALESE WEAPONS 105
POINT DE GALLE 106
TRINCOMALEE HARBOUR 108
JUMPING FISH (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_) 110
SAMI ROCK 114
COCO ISLAND LIGHT 116
ENTRANCE TO CAVES AT MOULMEIN 119
MERCHANT DHOWS, INDIAN OCEAN 120
GREAT PAGODA COURT 122
ENTRANCE TO TEMPLE 123
DAGON 125
RANGOON BOAT, STERN 126
DITTO STEM 127
MOULMEIN 129
ELEPHANTS AT WORK 130
DITTO 131
MOULMEIN RIVER BOAT 132
ON THE IRRAWADDY 133
ENTRANCE TO MOULMEIN CAVES 135
FERRY AT MORCENATIN 136
POINT AMHERST, WATER TEMPLE 138
BOUND SOUTH 139
TRAVELLER'S PALM, SINGAPORE 142
JUNKS, SINGAPORE 144
NAVIGATION BOARDS, RIVER KUCHING 146
FIRE-TUBE 148
DYAK 149
KUCHING 152
THE FORT 153
LABUAN 155
MALAY VILLAGE, LABUAN 158
BRUNEI HATS 161
PANGERAN'S ARRIVAL 164
PITCHER PLANTS AND KINA BALU 169
KUDAT 171
ON THE FORE-YARD, MAKING THE LAND 173
IN THE BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI 175
MR. FLINT'S BUNGALOW 177
KAPUAN TIMBER-STATION 179
DYAK DANCE 181
BORNEO WEAPONS 184
SANDAKAN, BEARING N. 185
ENTERING RIVER, MADAI 187
COMMISSARIAT DEPARTMENT 189
RETURN OF THE HEAD-HUNTER 192
SULUS AT SILAM 198
RETURNING AT LOW WATER 199
DUTCH FORT, MACASSAR 203
THE SHOOTING PARTY 207
UNDER THE SUN 209
OUR COACHMAN, MACASSAR 211
DUTCH (NATIVE) SOLDIERS 212
MACASSAR POLICEMAN 213
FISHING-BOAT, ALLAS STRAIT 216
OUR WIND-BOB 218
MORE BAD WEATHER 220
TOPMAST STUNSAILS 223
EFFECT OF A SQUALL 225
FAUNA, W. AUSTRALIA 229
KINGIA 233
BLACK BOYS 236
A BREAKDOWN IN THE BUSH 243
BOOMERANGS OR KYLIES 249
GETTING UNDER WAY 251
AN ABORIGINAL 254
THE PORT WATCH 257
RUNNING DOWN--EASTING 260
CRACKING ON 261
PROCLAMATION-TREE, GLENELG 264
'PROTECTOR' GUNBOAT 267
SUNSET 269
ADELAIDE 272
_STYPANDRA UMBELLATA_ 275
ON THE MURRAY RIVER 278
A BUCKBOARD 280
BALLARAT 282
MINERS' CAMP 284
EXHIBITION BUILDINGS, MELBOURNE 287
VICTORIA DEFENCE FLEET 289
LANCERS AND SOUDAN CONTINGENT 292
SELECTORS 296
FERNS 302
A FOREST BRIDGE 304
SYDNEY HARBOUR 307
BANKSIAS, &C., NEW SOUTH WALES 309
SUMMER HILL CREEK 313
WATERFALL GULLY 318
KATOOMBA 320
COOK'S MONUMENT, BOTANY BAY 323
SIGNAL STATION, NEWCASTLE 325
KANGAROO-FOOT (_Arrigozanthus_) 327
CATTLE CROSSING THE DARLING RIVER 333
SHEEP CROSSING RIVER 335
OFF THE TRACK 337
ROCKHAMPTON LILIES 339
FERN FOREST 341
GERMAN WAGGON 346
TURPENTINE-TREE 348
_CRINUM ASIATICUM_ 349
TI-TREES 355
MOUNT MORGAN 357
THE FORD 363
NATIVE WEAPONS, QUEENSLAND 366
BALLOON CANVAS 367
STOWING FORETOPSAIL 371
QUEENSLAND NATIVES 373
CARDWELL SCHOOL HOUSE 375
DEAD CROCODILE ON SNAG 378
THE TRAIN IN THE BUSH 382
ZAMOA TREE 384
ON THE JOHNSTONE RIVER 387
NAVIGATORS 389
THURSDAY ISLAND 391
COOKTOWN 393
CORAL ON PEARL-OYSTER 396
DRUM FROM MURRAY ISLAND 402
HAMMER-HEADED OYSTER 404
CLAREMONT ISLAND LIGHTSHIP 406
THE LAST MILL IN AUSTRALIA 408
PORT DARWIN 409
DARNLEY ISLAND; THE SHORE 413
DITTO 416
CURIOS FROM MURRAY ISLAND 420
IN THE TORRES STRAITS 423
CHURCH ON DARNLEY ISLAND 425
ST. LOUIS, MAURITIUS 429
OFF THE CAPE 432
ST. HELENA 435
LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA 437
ASCENSION. GREEN MOUNTAIN 439
SIERRA LEONE 441
BARQUE HOVE-TO 443
PICO 444
BEARING UP FOR SHELTER 445
TAILPIECE.
* * * * *
TRACK CHART _To follow Half-title_
MAP OF INDIA _To face page_ 72
[Illustration: Eventide]
_FOR MY CHILDREN._
_A BRIEF MEMOIR OF THEIR DEAR MOTHER._
_'The greatest benefit which one friend can confer upon
another is to guard, and excite, and elevate his virtues.
This your mother will still perform if you diligently
preserve the memory of her life and of her death...._
_'There is something pleasing in the belief that our
separation from those whom we love is only corporeal...._
_'Here is one expedient by which you may, in some degree,
continue her presence. If you write down minutely what you
remember of her from your earliest years, you will read it
with great pleasure, and receive from it many hints of
soothing recollections, when time shall remove her yet
further from you, and your grief shall be matured to
veneration.'_
DR. JOHNSON.
MY DEAR CHILDREN,--In sorrow and grief I have prepared a sketch of the
life and character of your dearly loved mother, whom it has pleased
God to call to Himself. Slight and imperfect as it is, it may
hereafter help to preserve some tender recollections, which you would
not willingly let die.
I shall begin with her childhood. Her mother having died in her
infancy, for some years your dear mother lived, a solitary child, at
her grandfather's house at Clapham. Here she acquired that love of the
country, the farm, and the garden which she retained so keenly to the
last. Here she learned to ride; and here, with little guidance from
teachers, she had access to a large library, and picked up in a
desultory way an extensive knowledge of the best English, French,
German, and Italian literature.
After a few years' residence at Clapham, your grandfather moved to
Chapel Street, Grosvenor Place, and later to the house which you
remember in Charles Street. At this period your mother's education was
conducted by her attached and faithful governess, Miss Newton, whom
you all know. She attended classes, but otherwise her life must have
been even more solitary in London than at Clapham. Her evenings were
much devoted to Botany, and by assiduous application she acquired that
thorough knowledge of the science which she found so useful later, in
describing the profuse and varied vegetation of the tropics.
And now I come to my engagement to your mother. How sweet it is to
remember her as she was in those young days; in manners so frank and
unaffected, and full of that buoyant spirit which to the end of her
life never flagged. She enjoyed with a glad heart every pleasure. She
was happy at a ball, happy on her horse, happy on the grouse-moor,
devoted to her father, a favourite with all her relatives, and very,
very sweet to me. Gladness of heart, thankfulness for every pleasure,
a happy disposition to make the best of what Providence has ordered,
were her characteristics.
We were married in October 1860. After our marriage we had everything
to create--our home, our society, our occupations. We began life at
Beauport; and wonderfully did your dear mother adapt herself to wholly
unanticipated circumstances. Beauport became a country home for our
nearest relations on both sides. As a girl, your mother had been a
most loving daughter to her own father. After her marriage she was
good and kind to my parents. To my brothers, until they were old
enough to form happy homes of their own, she was an affectionate
sister.
At the date of our marriage, no definite career had opened out for me.
To follow my father's business was not considered expedient, and I had
no commanding political influence. In the endeavour to help me to
obtain a seat in Parliament, your dear mother displayed a true
wife-like devotion. She worked with an energy and earnestness all her
own, first at Birkenhead in 1861, and later at Devonport and
Sandwich--constituencies which I fought unsuccessfully--and my return
for Hastings in 1868 afforded her the more gratification. It had been
the custom in the last-named constituency to invite the active
assistance of ladies, and especially the wives of the candidates, in
canvassing the electors. Your mother readily responded to the call.
She soon became popular among the supporters of the Liberal party, and
throughout my connection with Hastings she retained the golden
opinions which she had so early won. Her nerve, high spirit, and
ability, under the fierce ordeal of the petition against my return,
have been described in his memoirs by Serjeant Ballantine, who
conducted my case. He called your mother as his first witness for the
defence, put one or two questions, and then handed her wholly
unprepared to the counsel for the petitioners--the present Lord
Chancellor. With unflinching fortitude your mother endured a
cross-examination lasting for upwards of an hour. Her admirable
bearing made a great impression upon the eminent judge (Mr. Justice
Blackburn) who tried the case, and won the sympathies of the dense
crowd of spectators. I remember how gratefully your mother
acknowledged the mercy of Heaven in that crisis of her life. 'I could
not have done it unless I had been helped,' were her simple words to
me.
Down to the latest election in which I was engaged, your dear mother,
in the same spirit of personal devotion to her husband, wrought and
laboured in the political cause. I have put her love for me as the
prime motive for her efforts in politics; but she had too much
intelligence not to form a judgment of her own on public issues. Her
sympathies were instinctively on the side of the people, in opposition
to the old-fashioned Toryism, so much more in vogue a quarter of a
century ago than it is to-day.
In helping me to hold a seat in Parliament, your dear mother was
inflicting upon herself a privation very hard to bear. Owning to the
rapid changes in all the circumstances of our lives, it was difficult
to preserve old associations. In the midst of new environments, to
make her way alone was a great strain. It is some consolation to know
what happiness I gave when, upon my release from the urgent demands of
Parliamentary and official life, I was able to spend much of my time
in her dear society. It is sad that this happy change should have come
so late.
In addition to the share which she took in my Parliamentary labours,
your mother undertook the exclusive management at home. This
responsibility was gradually concentrated in her hands, owing to my
long service in the House of Commons, combined with exceptionally
heavy extra-Parliamentary work, finally culminating in my holding
office at the Admiralty for more than five years.
How we shall miss her in everything! specially in the task of
arranging in the museum, now near completion, the combined collections
of our many journeys! She had so looked forward to being able to bring
together these collections in London; one of her objects being to
afford instruction and recreation to the members of the Working Men's
Clubs, to whom she proposed to give constant facilities of access to
the collection.
The same spirit, which made your dear mother my helpmeet in my public
life, sustained her, at the sacrifice of every personal predilection,
in constant companionship with her husband at sea. She bore the misery
of sea-sickness without a murmur or complaint. Fear in storm and
tempest she never knew. She made yachting, notwithstanding its
drawbacks, a source of pleasure. At Cowes she was always on deck, card
in hand, to see the starts in the various matches. At sea she enjoyed
the fair breezes, and took a deep interest in estimating the daily
run, in which she was generally wonderfully exact. She had a great
faculty for seamanship, and knew as well as anybody on board what
should be done and what was being done on deck.
The same eager sympathy with every interest and effort of mine led
your dear mother to help me as President of the Working Men's Club and
Institute Union. She attended the meetings, distributed the prizes,
and on one occasion entertained the members and their friends at
Normanhurst. Upwards of a thousand came down from London, and were
addressed by Lord Houghton and by M. Waddington, the French
Ambassador. She also did all she could to encourage the Naval
Artillery Volunteers. For years she attended inspections and
distributed prizes on board the 'President' and the 'Rainbow.' She was
always present at the annual service in Westminster Abbey. She
witnessed the first embarkation in a gunboat at Sheerness. She carried
through all the commissariat arrangements for the six hundred naval
volunteers who were brought together from London, Liverpool, and
Bristol for the great review at Windsor, sleeping under canvas for
three nights in our encampment, and personally and most efficiently
superintending every detail. The men were enthusiastic in their
appreciation of her efforts.
The same interest was shown in my naval work. Your dear mother
accompanied me frequently in my visits to the dockyard towns at home
and abroad, attended naval reviews, and was present at the
manoeuvres on the coast of Ireland in 1885, and in Milford Haven in
1886. At home and abroad she always aided most cordially my desire to
establish kindly relations with the naval profession, among whom she
numbered, I am sure, not a few sincere friends. The same spirit of
sympathy carried your mother with me on dreary and arduous journeys to
Ireland, where she paid several visits to the Lough Swilly estates.
She called personally on every tenant, asked them to visit the
'Sunbeam,' treated them most kindly, and won their hearts.
Her reception of the Colonial visitors to England last year, when
suffering from severe illness, and the visits to the Colonies, which
were the last acts of her life, are the most recent proofs which your
dear mother was permitted to give of her genuine sympathy with
everything that was intended for the public good. The reception which
she met with in Australia afforded gratifying assurances of the wide
appreciation of her high-minded exertions on the part of our Colonial
friends.
The last day of comparative ease in your mother's life was spent at
Darnley Island. You remember the scene: the English missionaries, the
native teacher with his congregation assembled around him, the waving
cocoa-nuts, the picturesque huts on the beach, the deep blue sea, the
glorious sunshine, the beauty and the peace. It was a combination
after your mother's heart, which she greatly enjoyed, resting
tranquilly under the trees, fanned by the refreshing trade-wind. You
will remember her marked kindness of manner in giving encouragement to
the missionaries in their work. It was another instance of her broad
sympathies.
In attempting to give a description of your dear mother's fine
character, I cannot omit her splendid courage. I have referred to it
as shown on the sea. You who have followed her with the hounds, as
long as she had strength to sit in the saddle, will never forget her
pluck and skill. Her courage never failed her. It upheld her undaunted
through many illnesses.
And now I turn to that part of the work of her life by which your dear
mother is best known to the outer world. Her books were widely read by
English-speaking people, and have been translated into the language of
nearly every civilised nation. The books grew out of a habit, early
adopted when on her travels, of sitting up in bed as soon as she awoke
in the morning, in her dressing-jacket, and writing with pencil and
paper an unpretending narrative of the previous day's proceedings, to
be sent home to her father. The written letter grew into the
lithographed journal, and the latter into the printed book, at first
prepared for private circulation, and finally, on completion of our
voyage round the world, for publication. The favourable reception of
the first book was wholly unexpected by the writer. She awoke and
found herself famous.
Her popularity as a writer has been won by means the simplest, the
purest, and most natural which can be conceived. Not a single unkind
or ungenerous thought is to be found in any book of hers. The
instruction and knowledge conveyed, if not profound, are useful and
interesting to readers of all classes. The choice of topics is always
judicious. A bright and happy spirit glows in her pages, and it is
this which makes the books attractive to all classes. They were read
with pleasure by Prince Bismarck, as he smoked his evening pipe, as
well as by girls at school. Letters of acknowledgment used to reach
your mother from the bedside of the aged and the sick, from the
prairies of America, the backwoods of Canada, and the lonely
sheep-stations of Australia. Those grateful letters were the most
valued which were received from the cottages of the poor. As old
George Herbert sings,
Scorn no man's love, though of a mean degree;
Love is a present for a mighty King.
It was natural that your mother, with her eager nature, should be
spurred on to renewed efforts by success. She set out on her last
journey full of hope and enterprise. In India, in Borneo, in
Australia, she was resolved to leave no place unvisited which could by
any possibility be reached, and where she was led to believe that
objects of interest could be found, to be described to readers who
could not share her opportunities of travel. The enlargement of our
programme of journeys within the tropics threw a heavy strain on her
constitution. In Northern India her health was better than it had been
for years, but she fell away after leaving Bombay. Rangoon and Borneo
told upon her. She did not become really ill until the day after
leaving Borneo, when she was attacked by the malarial fever which
infests the river up which she had travelled to the famous bird's-nest
caves. She suffered much until we reached the temperate climate of
South Australia.
On leaving Brisbane we found ourselves once more in the tropics.
Enfeebled by an attack of bronchitis caught at Brisbane, your mother
was again seized with malarial fever. On the northern coast of
Australia such fevers are prevalent, and our visits to Rockhampton,
the Herbert River, Mourilyan, and Thursday Island, where we were
detained ten days, were probably far from beneficial. No evil
consequence was, however, anticipated; and without undue self-reproach
we must bow with submission to the heavy blow which, in the ordering
of Providence, has befallen us.
Your dear mother died on the morning of September 14, 1887, and her
remains were committed to the deep at sunset on the same day (Lat. 15 deg.
50' S., Long. 110 deg. 35' E.) Every member of the ship's company was
present to pay the last tribute of love and respect on that sad
occasion. Your dear mother died in an effort to carry forward the work
which, as she believed, it had pleased God to assign to her.
From your mother's books let us turn to her charities; and first her
public charities. You know how she has laboured in the cause of the
St. John Ambulance Association, how she has taken every opportunity of
urging forward the work in every place which we visited, in the West
Indies, in the Shetlands, in London, at Middlesbrough, in Sussex. At
all the ports at which we touched on our last cruise she spared no
pains to interest people in the work. You heard her deliver her last
appeal in the cause at Rockhampton. She spoke under extreme physical
difficulty, but with melting pathos. As it was her last speech, so,
perhaps, it was her best.
Your mother took up ambulance work at a time when it was little in
fashion, because she believed it to be a good cause. By years of hard
work, in speech, in letter, by interview, by pamphlet, by personal
example and devotion, she spread to multitudes the knowledge of the
art of ministering first-aid to the injured. We may rest assured that
her exertions have been, under Providence, the means of saving many
precious lives. In her last cruise you have seen how, when painful
injuries have been received, she has been the first to staunch the
bleeding wound, facing trying scenes with a courage which never
faltered while there was need for it, but which, as the reaction which
followed too surely told, put a severe strain upon her feeble frame.
Many could tell, in terms of deepest gratitude, what a true angel from
heaven your dear mother had been to them in their hours of sickness.
You will readily recall some of the most striking occasions.
That your mother accomplished what she did is the more to be admired
when account is taken of the feeble condition of her health and of her
many serious illnesses. She inherited weakness of the chest from her
mother, who died of decline in early life. When on the point of first
going out into society, she was fearfully burned, and lay for six
months wrapped in cotton-wool, unable to feed herself. In the early
years of our married life we were frequently driven away in the winter
to seek a cure for severe attacks of bronchitis. In 1869 your mother
caught a malarial fever while passing through the Suez Canal. She rode
through Syria in terrible suffering. There was a temporary rally,
followed by a relapse, at Alexandria. From Alexandria we went to
Malta, where she remained for weeks in imminent danger. She never
fully recovered from this, the first of her severe illnesses, and in
1880 she had a recurrence of fever at Algiers. It was followed by
other similar attacks--at Cowes in 1882, in the West Indies in 1883,
at Gibraltar in 1886, and on her last voyage, first at Borneo, and
finally, and with the results we so bitterly lament, on the coast of
Northern Queensland. Only indomitable courage could have carried your
mother through so much illness and left her mental energies wholly
unimpaired, long after her physical frame had become permanently
enfeebled. Loss of health compelled her to withdraw in great measure
from general society. She was unequal to the demands of London life,
and from the same cause was unable to remain in England during the
winter. Thus she gradually lost touch of relatives and friends of
former years, for whom she had a genuine regard. In such society as
she was able to see at the close of her too short life, she never
failed to win regard and sympathy. There will be many sad hearts in
Australia when the tidings of your mother's death reaches the latest
friends whom she was privileged to win.
The truest testimony to your mother's worth is to be found in the
painful void created in the home circle by her death. For me the loss
must be irreparable. It would, indeed, be more than we could bear, if
we had no hope for the future. We cling to that hope; and whatever our
hand findeth to do, we must, like her, try to do it with all our
might.
Such then was your dear mother: a constant worker, working it may be
beyond her strength, yet according to the light which God had given
her, and in the noblest causes. Your mother was always doing good to
those from whom she had no hope to receive. She did not do her alms
before men: not those at least which cost her most in time and in
thought. When she prayed, she entered into her closet and shut the
door, and, without vain repetition, presented her heart's desire in
language most simple before the Father in Heaven. Her life was passed
in the spirit of the Apostle's exhortation: 'Be ye kind one to
another, tender-hearted, forgiving one another.'
In the last prayer which she was able to articulate with me, your
mother besought the blessing of Heaven upon us both, praying that she
might yet be spared to be a comfort to me and all around her. In that
prayer was embodied the central aim of her existence. Her praise to
God was sung in her work of practical good. Her psalm was the generous
sacrifice of self to works which she believed would be for the
advantage of others. This thoughtfulness was shown in the most
beautiful way, when the last sad call had come. When, in reply to her
touching inquiry, 'Is it quite hopeless?' the answer gave no
encouragement to hope, you will not forget the tenderness, the
unfaltering fortitude, with which she bestowed her blessing, and then
proceeded, until articulation was denied, to distribute to each some
token of her tender love. She died in perfect charity with all,
sweetly submissive to the Divine Will, and consoling her afflicted
husband and children to the very last.
Your mother's heart was as large as it was tender. She was devoted, as
a wife, to her husband; as a mother, to her children. She was kind to
dependents, ever thoughtful for the poor, and there was a large place
in her heart for her dumb companions. Her presence will, I am sure,
never fade from your recollection; and in all my remembrance of her I
can recall no period of her life when her face was so dear to look
upon as in the days after leaving Port Darwin. As she lay back on her
pillows, a veil of white lace thrown round her head, her eyes so
bright, her smiles so loving, not a murmur from her lips nor a shade
of unrest on her serene countenance, the peculiar sweetness of her
expression seemed a foretaste of the peace of heaven.
I do not recall these things solely as a tribute to the dear one who
has passed away from among us, but for your profit and for mine. We
have seen how your mother used her opportunities to make the world a
little better than she found it. We may each do the same service in
our own sphere, and so may best be followers of her good example. In
tenderest love may we ever cherish and bless and revere her memory.
My dear children, I might write more. I could never tell you what your
mother was to me.
Your very affectionate father,
BRASSEY.
'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S.: _September_ 1887.
[Illustration: PORT SAID COALING-PARTY]
[Illustration: Evening Prayer]
_INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER._
When the arrangements for a contemplated cruise to the East were being
considered, towards the end of 1886, it was thought best for Lady
Brassey and her daughters to make the voyage to Bombay in a P. & O.
steamer. The 'Sunbeam' herself was to sail from Portsmouth by the
middle of November. Lord Brassey, in the first paragraph of his
'Sunbeam Papers,' thus acknowledges the help he derived at starting,
in what may be called the domestic department of the yacht, from Lady
Brassey's presence on board for even a few hours.
'We embarked at Portsmouth on Monday, November 16th. The "Sunbeam" was
in hopeless confusion, and it required no ordinary effort of
determination and organisation to clear out of harbour on the
following day. A few hours at Southampton did wonders in evolving
order out of chaos. On the afternoon of November 18th, my wife and
eldest daughter, who had come down to help in preparing for sea,
returned to the shore, and the "Sunbeam" proceeded immediately down
Channel.'
At Plymouth Lord Brassey was joined by the late Lord Dalhousie and by
Mr. Arnold Morley, M.P. The former landed at Gibraltar, and the latter
at Algiers. Through the long voyage to Bombay the gallant little yacht
held stoutly on her course, meeting first a mistral in the
Mediterranean, then strong head-winds in the Red Sea, and having the
N.E. monsoon in her teeth after leaving Aden.
[Illustration: Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules']
In the meantime Lady Brassey, her three daughters, and some friends
left England a few days after the yacht had sailed, travelling slowly,
with many interesting stopping-places, and not finally reaching
Brindisi until December 11th. Thence to Egypt was but a brief voyage,
and the one day's rest (!) at Alexandria was devoted, as usual, by
Lady Brassey to visits--so minute in their careful examination into
existing conditions as to be more an inspection than the cursory call
of a passing traveller--to the Soldiers and Sailors' Institute, and
also to the Military Hospital at Ramleh. Arrangements had next to be
made for the disposal of stores sent out by the Princess of Wales'
branch of the National Aid Society; and all this constituted what may
fairly be considered a hard day's work. Then came a well-occupied week
in Cairo, where much hospital-visiting was again got through, and
many interviews respecting the site for the new hospital at Port Said
were held with the Egyptian authorities. This pleasant but by no means
idle dawdling brought the party to Suez on December 23rd, where they
embarked at once on board the P. & O. steamer 'Thames,' Captain
Seaton, and started at midnight for Bombay.
[Illustration: Tanks at Aden]
Carefully and well had the plans for both voyages been laid, and
successfully--by grace of wind and weather--had they been carried out.
On January 3rd, 1887, Lord Brassey in the 'Sunbeam' and Lady Brassey
in the 'Thames' exchanged cordial signals of greeting off the harbour
of Bombay. The incident must be briefly described from the earlier
'Sunbeam Papers' (for of this first portion of the cruise Lady Brassey
has unhappily left no notes). 'As we were becalmed off Bombay, waiting
for the sea breeze which invariably freshens towards noon, the
Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamship "Thames," with my wife and
children on board, passed ahead of us into the harbour. We had a
delightful meeting in the afternoon at Government House, Malabar
Point, where we were greeted with a most cordial welcome from our dear
friends Lord and Lady Reay.'
We are so accustomed nowadays to the punctual keeping of appointments
made months before, with half the width of the world between the
meeting-places, that this happy and fortunate coincidence will
scarcely excite remark, even when the home journal dwells on the added
joy of the arrival, that very same evening, as planned beforehand, of
Lord Brassey's son, who had started earliest, and had been spending
some weeks of travel, sight-seeing, and sport, pleasantly combined, in
Ceylon and Southern India.
The punctuality of the P. & O. steamers might be a proverb, if in
these hurried days anyone ever paused to make a proverb; and therefore
it is not the rapid run of the 'Thames' which excites our admiration.
It is rather the capital sailing qualities, well tried and proven as
they are, of the 'Sunbeam.' Though essentially a _sailing_ vessel and
carrying very little coal, the yacht had made her way through the
intricate navigation of the Red Sea and against the strong contrary
winds of the N.E. monsoon, which blew with quite exceptional force off
the southern shores of Arabia, and had finally dropped anchor at the
appointed day, and almost hour, in Bombay Harbour.
[Illustration: Kurrachee Harbour]
[Illustration: The Mirs Falconer]
On this, her first visit, the 'Sunbeam' remained only three days at
Bombay. She sailed again for Kurrachee on January 6th, 1887, and
reached her destination early on Tuesday, the 11th. The stay in Bombay
was cut short by the desire of the travellers to join Lord and Lady
Reay, and journey with them for the first few days of an official tour
in Sindh, on which the Governor of Bombay was about to start. There
are exceptional opportunities in such an excursion for seeing great
concourses of natives, and gaining knowledge of the condition of the
country from the officials engaged in its administration. The first
point of interest noted is a native horse-fair held at Shikarpur,
where 'in the immense concourse gathered together, all the races of
these wild districts were represented. The most characteristic people
were the Beloochees--men of sturdy build, who carry themselves with a
bold and manly air. They formerly lived by raids and cattle-lifting,
swooping down from the Suleiman Mountains upon the people of the
plains, who were seldom able to offer any effectual resistance. We
have established order in these once lawless regions by our military
force, posted at Jacobabad.'
[Illustration: Bokhara Man]
From the brief notes of this earlier part of the journey, which
follow, it is evident that the travellers had semi-official receptions
of their own at nearly every large station. Addresses of cordial
welcome were presented; replies had to be made; and it is perhaps from
these causes of added fatigue and excitement that Lady Brassey was
unable to do more than jot down the events of each day.
[Illustration: Going to Dinner]
Lord and Lady Brassey and their family travelled together through
Sindh, along the north-west frontier of India to Lahore, Peshawur, and
the Khyber Pass; and Lord Brassey gratefully notes in the first number
of 'Sunbeam Papers' that his wife's health in Northern India was
better than it had been for years.
A fresh start on the return journey to Bombay was made from Lahore on
January 21st, _via_ Patiala, whose Maharajah, young as he is, carries
on the practice of sumptuous welcome and entertainment of English
travellers which forms part of the historic traditions of the loyal
rulers of the state. Agra was reached on January 30th, and at this
point, after a brief delay, the party separated, Lord Brassey
retracing his steps to Kurrachee to take the yacht back to Bombay. The
rest came round by Cawnpore and Lucknow, Benares, Jubbulpore, and
Poonah, and so on to Hyderabad, their farthest inland point, where
Lady Brassey's more elaborated diary commences.
[Illustration: Our Home on Wheels]
The whole of this long journey of 4,500 miles was made in thirty-six
days, and with the exception of the two nights at the Maharajah's
palace at Patiala, the railway train was the only sleeping-place of
the travellers, who were eleven in number. Halts and stoppages were
made in the day-time to admit of local sight-seeing and excursions.
Lady Brassey, in a private letter, declared this plan of travel to be
delightful and thoroughly comfortable; and it will be seen that
Hyderabad was reached not only with comfort but with renovated health,
and with the full enthusiasm of travel and ardour of enjoyment strong
in the breast of the well-known diarist, whose last journals,
faithfully kept when once commenced, are now before us.
[Illustration: Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay]
JOURNAL.
CHAPTER I.
_BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE._
_Thursday, January 6th._--Left Bombay harbour at 2 A.M. and proceeded
to sea under steam. Rather rolly. Very busy all day unpacking and
arranging things. As nearly everybody was more or less overcome, I
felt that I must make an effort. Small party at meals. State of things
improved towards evening.
_Friday, January 7th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Shifty breeze. Tacking all
day. Busy unpacking and repacking, and trying to get things straight.
Towards evening the invalids began to pick up a little and to appear
on deck.
At noon we were off Verawal, having run 135 miles since yesterday.
Distance from Kurrachee, 310 miles.
_Saturday, January 8th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Pleasant breeze, but not
favourable. Several dhows in sight near the land. At eight o'clock a
dead calm and very hot. At noon a sea-breeze, fair; at five o'clock a
land-breeze, foul. Steam up at 11 P.M.
_Sunday, January 9th._--A flat calm at 4.30 A.M. The 'Southern Cross'
and 'Great Bear' bright in the heavens. The moon set with curious
'horse's-tail' effects. At noon we were off Kori, or Lakhpat. At 10
P.M. heavy squall from N.E. came on, accompanied by a downpour of
rain.
[Illustration: Crossing the Indus]
_Monday, January 10th._--Made Kurrachee Light soon after midnight.
Entered the harbour at daybreak, very cold on deck. Soon after we had
anchored, Mr. Dashtar, one of the Parsee cricketers, came on board
with bouquets of flowers for all of us. After much settling, and
packing, and engaging new servants, we breakfasted; and then, having
landed, proceeded to see something of Kurrachee City, the
alligator-tank, and the cantonment. Engaged additional horses for a
longer expedition, in the course of which our carriage stuck in the
sand as we tried to cross one of the many shallow mouths of the Indus.
Muriel and I refused to quit the carriage, and managed to get over.
The rest of the party waded across. Returned on board yacht, and later
on proceeded in the steam-launch with Captain Parker to the
lighthouse. Landed again at the pier in the evening, and started on
our long inland journey in the special train which had been provided
for us. Excellent dinner in train. Comfortable night.
[Illustration: Shikarpur Bazaar]
_Tuesday, January 11th._--Blue glass in carriage windows made the
landscape look as if covered with snow. Stopped for baths and
refreshments at one of the stations _en route_. Breakfasted later in
train. Passed through a dreary country, a saltpetre desert, relieved
by occasional scrubby trees. Interesting people at wayside
stations--Sindhis, Beloochees, Afghans, Persians, and others.
[Illustration: Sukhur Bridge, Indus]
Reached Shikarpur at two o'clock. Met by Colonel Mayhew, Mr. Ralli,
and Colonel Lyttelton. Drove to Commissioner's residence. Colonel
Mayhew took us to the fair, and to see the wrestling; then to the
bazaars. Wonderful concourse of people. Bought carpets and silks.
Entertained friends at tea 'on board' train. Dined with Mr. Erskine.
_Wednesday, January 12th._--Very wet night. Breakfasted early. Drove
to the Residency, where the fires were most acceptable. Lady Reay's
room partly washed away in night, being in what is appropriately
called a melting-house. To the camp of the Amir, a courteous old man
with five sons. A scene to be remembered. Saw fighting-rams, cocks,
and partridges. Lunched at station, where we met Tom and children.
Afterwards to the great Shikarpur horse-fair and prize-giving.
Interesting sight, but bitterly cold air.
_Thursday, January 13th._--Amir sent seven camels, beautifully
caparisoned, to take us to his camp. Drove through bazaars. Most
graciously received at camp, but luckily escaped refreshment. Thence
to the Commissioner's house. Deputation of judges of show and
principal Sindhi, Hindoo, Mahomedan, and other inhabitants, bringing
fruit, flowers, and sweetmeats. Left at twelve o'clock in Governor's
train for Sukhur Bridge. Proceeded in steamer up the Indus past Rohri.
Town gaily decorated. Saw canal and irrigation works. Hard work going
up stream, easy coming down again, as is often the case. It is said
that a voyage of ten days in one direction often occupies three weeks
in the other. Strolled through town of Sukhur. Picturesque
illuminations in the evening. Returned to our yacht on wheels at ten
o'clock, thoroughly tired.
[Illustration: Old Sukhur]
_Friday, January 14th._--Called at seven. Very cold. Breakfasted with
the Brackenburys. Good-bye to our dear Bombay friends. Drove round the
town, and then with Tom and Tab to Old Sukhur and the bazaars. The
Governor and Lady Reay left at noon for Sindh. We proceeded by water
to Rohri. Train crosses the river in boats; picturesque scene--camels,
boats, train, volunteers, and natives. Much plagued by flies.
Telegraphed for dinner at the station at Ritti. Very cold night
indeed. Could not sleep after two o'clock. Water froze in bottles.
_Saturday, January 15th._--Crossed Empress Bridge over Sutlej. Reached
Mooltan at 6 A.M. Breakfasted at nine. Mohamed Hyat Khan, district
judge, very kindly offered us his services as guide. He had been much
with Lord Lawrence, carried Nicholson from field of battle when the
latter was wounded, and killed the man who slew him. Called on Colonel
Barnes. Old fort, dark blue and light green tiles. To the bazaars.
Enamelled jewellery and brass foot-pans. Returned to the train, wrote
letters, and settled plans. Visited the church with Mr. Bridge (cousin
of our old friend Captain Cyprian Bridge, R.N.), the chaplain here.
Tea at the club, which resembles other clubs all the world over. Back
to station, where deputation of chiefs came to see Maude Laurence.
Left Mooltan at 7.50 P.M.
[Illustration: Temple of the Sun, Mooltan]
_Sunday, January 16th._--Shortly before eight o'clock we passed a
large cantonment, and soon afterwards caught sight of the tombs and
temples of Lahore. Train shunted into siding. Found letters
innumerable awaiting us. Went to Mr. K.'s church, and afterwards in
camel-carriage to Sultan Serai. Polo ponies, horses, and wild-looking
people. Negro ponies with curly hair.
_Monday, January 17th._--Called early. Breakfast at eight. In gharries
and camel-carriage to Government House. Thence to the jail, where we
saw the process of carpetmaking; and afterwards to the School of Art.
'Sir Roger' suddenly disappeared, to my consternation, but was
discovered, after much search, wandering about near the jail. To the
Zoological Gardens; nothing specially worthy of notice except a fierce
tiger. Then to the Lawrence Hall, where balls and concerts take place.
[Illustration: Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore]
In the afternoon we rode on elephants, guided by mahouts in red and
yellow uniforms, and attended by servants in liveries of the same
colour, to the bazaars. Contents most interesting, especially the
carved woodwork, copper-work, and Persian armour. Went to Golden
Mosque and Fort, the palace, elephant-pool, and Runjeet Singh's tomb.
Wonderful sight. Great fun bargaining. Shops each more curious than
the others. Returned to station and resumed journey for Peshawur.
[Illustration: Canon, Murree]
_Tuesday, January 18th._--Reached Rawul Pindi, where there is a large
cantonment. The views of the Indus are fine in places, but the railway
on the whole passes through a barren desolate country until Peshawur
is approached, when the soil becomes more cultivated.
On arrival at Peshawur Station we procured gharries and drove rapidly
to the house of the Commissioner, Colonel Waterfield, who was most
kind. Then in a dog-cart and three gharries to the bazaar; very quaint
and picturesque. Fine view of the Khyber Pass and the Himalayas from
top of police office. Drove to the King's Garden, which is well laid
out and contains many fine trees. The Christian church at Peshawur
contains many memorial tablets to missionaries. Colonel Waterfield
dined with us in the train, and told us much that was deeply
interesting about this part of India.
[Illustration: Afghans at Jamrud]
_Wednesday, January 19th._--Visited by traders of all kinds. Colonel
Waterfield and Major Warburton called for us, and we proceeded in
gharries and char-a-banc to the Jamrud Fort and entrance to Khyber
Pass. Saw 1st Bengal Cavalry and Skinner's Horse exercising under
Colonel Chapman. Inspected portion of the force of 650 infantry and 50
cavalry maintained for the protection of travellers through the
Khyber. Tuesday and Friday are the caravan days each week. Strong
escort for caravans necessary, owing to intermittent fighting between
tribes on either side of pass.
[Illustration: Jamrud Fort]
[Illustration: Camel-guns and Standard]
[Illustration: ELEPHANTA CAVES]
_Thursday, January 20th._--Arrived before daylight at Rawul Pindi.
Woke very early and wrote letters. General Dillon came to greet us.
Drove out to the parade-ground. Passed troops on way to be reviewed.
The strength on parade included 15th Bengal (Mooltan) Cavalry, 18th
Bengal Lancers (Punjaub), Mountain Battery, and the 14th Bengal
Infantry (Sikhs). The whole force marched past in splendid style,
quite equal to any but the Guards, and then the cavalry went by at a
gallop. Mounted gun, carried on five mules, unlimbered in sixty,
limbered in sixty-five seconds. Thukkar quoit-throwing extraordinary,
the quoits looking like flying-fish darting hither and thither. Also
tent-pegging, with and without saddles--shaking rupee off without
touching peg, digging peg out of the ground, changing horses at full
gallop, and hanging on in every conceivable attitude. Lunched at the
residence of the General. Inspected native and British hospitals,
huts, tents, and recreation-rooms. Then back to station, where we
entertained friends to tea. Resumed journey at 8.20 P.M. All very
tired.
[Illustration: Cabul Native, Lahore]
[Illustration: Lahore]
_Friday, January 21st._--Saw minarets of the Shah Dura. Arrived at
Lahore two hours and forty minutes late. Drove to Shah Dura in
camel-carriage, over Ravee River by bridge of boats. Stream nearly
dry. Inlaid marble tomb very beautiful, but surroundings disappointing
and much damaged. Saw the elephants being washed in the river. It was
most amusing to see how wonderfully they were managed by quite tiny
boys. After lunch we went to the Museum, which has only recently been
opened. Thence to the bazaar and the Lawrence and Montgomery Halls,
and afterwards to Mr. Elsmie's native party, where we met many
interesting people. Dined with the Elsmies, and met Colonel Wolseley,
Lord Wolseley's brother.
[Illustration: Camel Team]
[Illustration: Amritsar]
_Saturday, January 22nd._--Left Lahore at 5 A.M., and reached Amritsar
at seven. Noticed encampment and caravan of camels just before
arriving. Drove with Mr. Mitchell through the picturesque city to the
Golden Temple, with its gilded domes, minarets, and lamps, its
marble-terraces, and its fine garden. This temple is the headquarters
of the Sikh religion. Beautiful view of the Himalayas from roof. In
the public garden, called the Rambagh, people were playing
lawn-tennis. Left Amritsar at 8 P.M.
[Illustration: Patiala Elephants]
[Illustration: 'Cross Country]
[Illustration: Elephants Drinking]
_Sunday, January 23rd._--At 5 A.M. reached Rajpura, and were received
by a deputation of officials. Tea and fruit awaited us in the dak
bungalow, not a hundred yards from the station, to enable us to reach
which five carriages had been provided. At 8 A.M. we reached Patiala,
where carriages and four, twenty elephants with howdahs, and an escort
of thirty horsemen were drawn up in readiness for us. At one o'clock
we drove to the Bari Durri, or Palace of the Maharajah of Patiala, a
dignified boy of fourteen, who received us most courteously. Drove
through the city to another palace called Moti Bagh, which had been
placed at our disposal, and where the Maharajah returned our visit.
[Illustration: Mounting]
_Monday, January 24th._--The gentlemen went out shooting early.
Started at 11.30 in carriages drawn by four horses, and drove through
scrub-like jungle to meet the shooting party. Rode on elephants, in
rather tumble-to-pieces howdahs. Saw many black and grey partridges,
quail, deer, and jungle-fowl, but could not shoot any on account of
the unsteadiness of the howdahs. Grand durbar at the Maharajah's
palace in the evening. Four thousand candles in glass chandeliers.
[Illustration: The Kutub Minar]
[Illustration: Base of Kutub Minar]
_Tuesday, January 25th._--We were honoured early this morning with a
visit from the three members of the council of regency. Sir Deva Sing,
the president, is a man of distinguished presence and graceful
manners. In the course of conversation we endeavoured to elicit his
views on several points. Tom questioned him as to the relations
between the Government of India and the native states, and told me
that he said, speaking for Patiala, and indeed for the native states
generally, there were no grievances of which they could complain.
Patiala sent a contingent to the last Afghan campaign. Sir Deva Sing,
referring to our policy in Afghanistan, thought it would be wise to
advance the frontier to the further limits of Afghanistan. He
advocated this step solely on the grounds of prestige. Turning to the
condition of the native army, he thought it desirable to improve the
position of native officers in the British service. They are not
dissatisfied with the actual conditions; they are prepared to fight to
the last in support of England; but they would appreciate any step
which could be taken to put them on a level with British officers.
[Illustration: Old Delhi and Weapons]
A visit to Patiala suggests some general reflections. Under native
rule, roads, sanitation, education, everything which belongs to the
higher civilisation, is neglected, while money is lavishly spent on
elephants, equipages, menageries, jewellery, palaces, and barbaric
splendours of every kind. It is a great abuse, much needing
correction, that the native states, though they have received from the
British complete guarantees against foreign invasion and internal
rebellion, maintain armed men, for the vanity of military display, to
the number of 315,000.
It would have lightened our burdens greatly if the internal government
of India could have been left under native princes. Such an
alternative, unfortunately, was not open to us. The native rulers
would have proved for the most part incapable of the task. They would
have been led on by internecine warfare to mutual destruction. The
trade with England depends on the peace which we have been
instrumental in preserving.
[Illustration: Ulwar]
The gentlemen went out shooting, and we joined them at lunch as
before. Paid some visits in the afternoon, and played lawn-tennis at
the Bari Durri with the Maharajah. Left Patiala at 8 P.M.
_Wednesday, January 26th._--Arrived at Meerut at 5 A.M., and thence
continued our journey to Delhi. Drove to dak bungalow, and thence to
the palace, now being partially restored. Public audience-hall, Pearl
Mosque, and the entire group of buildings, within the fort at Delhi,
are noble examples of Indian architecture. Lunched at United Service
Hotel, in the garden of which is the tomb of the Emperor Hamayun.
_Thursday, January 27th._--Drove out early to the Ridge, the flagstaff
battery, and the big durbar tent. Saw the troops march by, and at
rifle practice. After breakfast went with Mr. Cannon to the Kutub
Minar, the grandest column in the world; climbed to the top, whence
there is a splendid view. Spent the rest of the day in seeing the
sights of this wonderful city. Dined at dak bungalow, and returned to
train. Started at 10.48 for Ulwar.
[Illustration: Palace in the Ulwar Fort]
[Illustration: PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT]
_Friday, January 28th._--Arrived at Ulwar at 7 A.M. Messenger from
Maharajah to act as our guide. Most lovely palace, not generally
shown. Exquisite lace-like marble tracery, especially in Zenana rooms.
Both the Maharajah and the Maharanee are at present away. Schinnahal
Tank at back, with cupolas, too beautiful for words. We also went to
the summer palace and the gardens attached to it, in which, among
other things, we saw some schoolboys playing cricket. Both at Ulwar
and at Jeypore there are hospitals and medical schools for male and
female students.
[Illustration: Sar-Bahr, Gwalior]
_Saturday, January 29th._--Reached Jeypore at 6 A.M. The Maharajah's
secretary and his assistant, both dressed in black, came to meet us
at seven o'clock. Drove to Amber, the ancient city of the Rajpoots,
now almost uninhabited, except by Fakirs. Lovely drive in the cool
morning air. Elephants at foot of hill, and alligators in tank. At the
temple a kid is sacrificed every morning, of which fact we saw traces.
Visited the palace--an extensive and gorgeous building, with fine
specimens of carved marble. Magnificent view from roof. Drove back to
Jeypore to breakfast, and found men with specimens of arms, and
curiosities of all kinds, awaiting us. Visited School of Art and
Museum. Lunched at excellent Kaisar-i-Hind hotel. Then to the palace,
which contains endless courts and halls-of-audience, including the
celebrated Dewani Khas, of white marble. Ascended to seventh story, by
special permission. Extensive view over city. Interview with
Maharajah. Saw his stables, trained horses, and fighting animals, and
the beautiful Ram Newas Gardens.
[Illustration: Group of Natives]
_Sunday, January 30th._--Arrived at Agra. Went to church and heard a
good sermon. Drove to the Taj, 'the glory of the world,' which was not
in the least disappointing, high as were our expectations. Dined with
Colonel Smith.
_Monday, January 31st._--Drove out to Futtehpore Sikri, the favourite
residence of the Emperor Akbar, about twenty-five miles from Agra,
where there is a lovely tomb, finer than any we have yet seen. German
photographer taking views of it. Lunched near the Jain Temple, which
contains most curious carvings. Tom says it is remarkable how well
some British regiments stand the climate of India. At Agra we saw the
Manchester Regiment. After three years at Mooltan, perhaps the hottest
station in India, the men were in rude health. They marched the whole
distance to Agra. At the time of our visit the men were playing
football and cricket, as vigorously as if they were in England. They
subscribe for newspapers; they amuse themselves with frequent
theatricals. They are fit to go anywhere and do anything.
The prison at Agra is admirably administered. Under the direction of
Dr. Tyler, the men are being instructed in trades, by which, when
released from confinement, they will be able to earn an honest living.
The manufacture of carpets in the prison has been brought to
perfection. A similar progress has been made in wood-carving in the
prison at Lahore. Throughout India the prisons have been converted,
with a wise humanity, into busy workshops.
_Tuesday, February 1st._--Left Agra by special train at 3 A.M. and
reached Gwalior at seven. Colonel Bannerman, with carriages, kindly
met us. After breakfast drove out to the fort, to reach which we had
to ride on very shaky elephants up a steep road. Barracks deserted now
that the English soldiers are gone. Saw the Jain Temple, restored by
Captain Keith. Returned to Gwalior, and lunched at the Residency.
Proceeded by 1.45 train to Dholepore. Maharajah received us at station
and entertained us with coffee. Reached Agra again at six o'clock.
[Illustration: Water-carrier, Benares]
_Wednesday, February 2nd._--Arrived at Cawnpore at 2 A.M. Drove at
6.45 through the streets to the Memorial Gardens, where a monument is
erected over the well into which so many victims of the Mutiny were
cast. Visited the site of the Assembly Rooms, where women and
children were hacked to death. Then to General Wheeler's entrenchment,
St. John's Church, and the present Memorial Church, which contains
many interesting tablets with touching inscriptions. Proceeded by
train to Lucknow. Went with General Palmer to the Residency. Lovely
gardens, full of purple bougainvillea, orange bignonia, and scarlet
poinsettias. It was difficult to realise that this spot had once been
the scene of so much horror and bloodshed. It was in the gardens of
the Secundra Bagh that two thousand mutineers were killed within two
hours by the 93rd Regiment and the 4th Punjaub Rifles, under Sir Colin
Campbell. Lunched at the Imperial Hotel, and afterwards went to the
soldiers' coffee-tavern.
[Illustration: Nerbudda River--Marble Rocks]
[Illustration: Meari, the Last of the Thugs]
_Thursday, February 3rd._--Reached Cawnpore at midnight, and Allahabad
at 7.20 A.M. Met by Mr. Adam with the Maharajah's carriages, in which
we drove to the principal places of interest, including the fort, the
arsenal, and the Sultan's serai and gardens. Returned to station and
went on by train to Benares. Drove through the narrow and dirty
streets to the Golden Temple. Not much to be seen in the shops except
London brasswork and Hindoo gods. The Temple was chiefly remarkable
for the dirt which abounded. The Cow Temple was dirtier still, with
cows and bulls tied up all round it. Monkey Temple very curious. Drove
out to the cantonments, several miles from the city. Dined at Clarke's
Hotel, and returned to the train very tired.
[Illustration: Temple at Ellora]
_Friday, February 4th._--Called at 6 A.M. Started at half-past seven
for the Ranagar Palace, where we found chairs in readiness to carry us
up the ascent. Received by the old Maharajah, his son, and grandson.
Embarked in a boat propelled by a treadmill, and proceeded down the
river, past all the ghauts and palaces belonging to various kings and
princes or to their descendants. The bathing-ghaut was a wonderful
sight. Women in brilliant colours; red palanquins and pilgrims.
Carriages met us at the bridge.
During the succeeding days the journey included visits to the Marble
Rocks, near Jubbulpore, and to the Caves of Ellora, _via_ Aurungabad.
[Illustration: The Fort, Poonah]