=DAIRY DEVICES=
SHOWING USE OF BUTTER-MAKING EQUIPMENT
The economic value of farm butter made from the product of a few
cows is of much more importance than is commonly supposed. For this
reason the fundamental principles underlying the making of good butter
should be practised as much by the farm woman, making butter in small
quantities for the market or the consumption in the home, as by the
operator of a large creamery establishment. The quality of butter made
on the average farm shows that cleanliness and the proper attention to
the simplest details in the making of good butter have been neglected.
_Quality._--The method used in the handling of milk or cream and in
making butter determines its quality. The sanitation of the utensils
in which cream or milk is handled and the conditions surrounding it
during ripening are of the utmost importance. A common practice among
some farm women is to put the milk in shallow, uncovered pans which are
exposed to dust, flies, and the odors which frequent the pantry and
kitchen. Such pans are allowed to stand until the milk clabbers and a
thick leathery sheet of cream is formed on the top. Good butter cannot
be made from milk or cream handled in this manner. A deep, narrow
vessel known as a shot-gun can is recommended for use in ripening cream
or milk because it is easily handled, washed and can be covered. These
can be bought at hardware stores or mail order houses.
_Utensils._--Convenient equipment for making butter is essential and
very inexpensive. It is customary on many farms to churn the cream in
an earthen jar with a wooden dasher and stick. Earthenware vessels
commonly used are porous and often contain blisters or air bubbles, all
of which will absorb milk. The milk sours in these places and gives the
vessels a characteristic bad odor. These churns are hard to clean and
heavy to handle and should never be used. A wooden barrel churn is one
of the best types to use because it is easily operated, cleaned, and
handled. Churns which contain agitators and gearing of different kinds
should not be used.
A dairy thermometer, which can be bought at any local hardware or drug
store at a small cost, is necessary to determine the temperature of the
cream.
When there are at least four cows milked, a small cream separator will
be a good investment. Where a separator cannot be had, hand skimming is
advisable if the cream is properly handled.
_Ripening of Cream._--The ripening of milk or cream is the natural
souring which takes place under proper conditions and which gives
butter its characteristic flavor. The quality of butter depends, to a
large extent, upon proper ripening. Where hand skimming is practised,
set separate milkings in cool, well-ventilated places and allow to
stand from twelve to eighteen hours for the cream to rise. Skim the
cream off with a cup or large spoon, put it into a can which is
kept in a cool place at a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit or
below. Skimmings from the different milkings are cooled to the same
temperature before being added to this stock can. The contents of this
can must be stirred each time after adding the cream. When sufficient
cream for a churning has been secured in this way the contents of the
stock can are warmed to a temperature of 58 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit
and in winter 62 degrees Fahrenheit, then allowed to stand in a clean,
well-ventilated place for twelve or eighteen hours to ripen. This
warming is done by setting the can in a vessel of hot water. Frequent
stirring is necessary during the ripening period. Cream properly
ripened has a velvety and glossy appearance, with a mild but pleasant
sour taste. When hand skimming is not practised the churning will have
to be done more frequently to prevent the milk from becoming too sour
and giving the butter a bad flavor.
_Coloring the Butter._--The natural color of butter when the cows can
get plenty of nature’s food is a soft, straw yellow. During the winter,
if it is necessary to use dry feed alone, the butter will lack color
which can be supplied by the addition of a harmless coloring matter.
The amount of coloring matter necessary to use varies with the season
but usually 8 to 12 drops of harmless vegetable coloring to every pound
of butter will be sufficient in the winter time. This coloring matter
may be bought at most drug stores.
_Churning._--When the cream is ready for churning, rinse the churn
with scalding water to cleanse it thoroughly and to swell the pores in
the wood. Following this, cool the churn with cold water to prevent
the raising of the temperature of the cream when put into the churn.
The cream should be poured through a strainer into the churn to remove
lumps or hard white specks of cream which may have dried to the sides
of the can. Gas will form in the churn during the first few minutes
of churning which must be let out by removing the cork at the bottom
of the churn. It may be necessary to repeat this operation several
times. After the churn has been in operation about 20 minutes, the
cream becomes thick and shortly after, very small, mealy granules
begin to form. At this point the cream begins to break away from the
glass in the top of the churn lid. When this stage is reached, after
every four or five revolutions the lid should be removed and the size
of the granules observed. When these have reached the size of large
wheat grains, the churning operation has been completed. At this point
the glass in the top appears clear which indicates that the granules
slide off instead of sticking to the top. It usually takes at least 25
minutes to churn good butter. If it takes longer, the temperature of
the next cream churned should be raised a few degrees.
_Washing the Butter._--When churning is completed draw the buttermilk
off through a strainer to catch small particles of butter. The butter
is washed to remove the buttermilk, to improve the flavor, and to
keep better. Buttermilk is washed out of the butter and not worked
out. The temperature of the wash water should be the same as that of
the buttermilk and is determined by the use of a thermometer. This
temperature depends upon the condition of the butter; if the butter is
too soft the water must be colder, and _vice versa_. In washing butter,
water is added and the churn given two or three revolutions so as to
turn the butter; after which the water is drawn off and the process
repeated several times until the water drawn off is clear.
_Salting the Butter._--The butterworker, paddles, and mold or printer
are scalded and cooled in the same way as the churn and for the same
reasons. The churn is then drawn near the worker and the butter
granules removed with paddle or ladle and placed on worker. The hands
must never touch butter for sanitary reasons and because they will give
the butter a greasy appearance. As soon as the butter is placed on the
worker, one ounce of fine, clean salt to a pound of butter is sprinkled
uniformly over the butter.
_Working the Butter._--Butter should then be worked well to distribute
the salt through it and to expel the excess water. Butter is salted to
improve the flavor, to serve the market purposes and to some degree to
act as a preservative. In working the butter, the pile of granules is
pressed flat with the lever, and the flattened mass of butter turned
over about 12 or 14 times until the edges of butter, when broken, have
a granular appearance similar to a broken half-baked potato. Too much
working destroys the grain and the edges when broken apart will have a
slightly stringy appearance, while too little working gives a streaked
or mottled butter.
_Printing and Wrapping the Butter._--The printer is removed from the
water as soon as the working has been completed and with both hands
it is pressed on the mass of butter until it is packed full. That
remaining over the edge is then cut off with a paddle and the print
pushed out on a sheet of parchment paper and neatly wrapped. The
printing and wrapping of butter cannot be emphasized too strongly, for
a good appearance is fundamental to obtaining good markets for the
butter. It is very much easier to get a good market for butter packed
neatly in parchment paper than it is for that wrapped in a cloth as is
the case in so many country homes. It is very important that a good
grade of parchment paper should be used for wrapping butter and this
can be bought from firms handling dairy supplies or it may be ordered
by mail. The brick-shaped mold is used because prints can be handled
with convenience and such prints are a standard on the market. A
mold of this kind can be purchased from local hardware stores or mail
order houses for from $1.50 to $5.00. The placing of the wrapped print
in a pasteboard box or carton not only protects the butter from the
finger prints but also from dust and dirt. These cartons may be bought
from any firm handling dairy supplies. Butter put up in this manner
is convenient to handle, attractive in appearance, and is also an
advertisement.
_Marketing the Butter._--The appearance of the package determines to
a large extent the selling price of butter and every effort should
be made to make it as neat, attractive, and convenient to handle as
possible. The ultimate end in the making of farm butter is to supply a
delicate food for the family and to obtain a profit from the surplus.
To do this, it is necessary to create a demand by giving satisfaction
to your customers. This can be done by putting up butter superior in
quality and attractive in appearance.
BUTTER WORKER
A very useful appliance, and easily operated, making the butter into a
close-grained mass without injuring the texture of it. It is made of
poplar, triangular in shape, with a corrugated roller. This roller fits
in a hole made in a piece of metal which is put across the smaller end
of the worker. This worker may be operated by putting it on the kitchen
table, or it may be placed on adjustable legs.
[Illustration]
MATERIALS:
13’ maple for bottom, sides, and battens.
3’ 1⅜” × 2” × 5” for roller.
10 No. 14 screws, 3” to fasten the sides on bottom.
8 No. 14 screws, 3” to fasten battens on bottom.
1 piece 28-gauge zinc 4¾” wide × 16” long, for front piece.
8 four-penny box nails to fasten zinc across the front.
1 pan 2” deep × 12” wide × 14” long, to place under worker in
small end to catch drippings from butter.
Wood glue to fasten handle on roller.
DIMENSIONS:
_Bottom_: 1 piece 1¼” thick × 30” wide in front, 4” wide in back
× 26” long.
_Sides_: 2 pieces 1¼” thick × 6” wide, × 30” long.
_Battens_: 1 piece 1¼” thick × 4” wide × 30” long.
1 piece ¼” thick × 2” wide × 2” long.
_Roller_: 1 piece 4” thick × 4” wide × 36” long.
_Handle_: 1 piece 5” long.
[Illustration: Taking temperature of cream]
[Illustration: Straining the cream into the churn]
[Illustration: Churning operation complete]
[Illustration: Working the butter]
[Illustration: Moulding and packing the butter]
[Illustration: Cleaning up]
DIRECTIONS:
Taper the bottom piece at one end, using a radius of 31”. Screw
the battens (1¼” × 4” × 30”) (1¼” × 2” × 2”) on the bottom,
making the holes large enough to fit the heads of the screws.
Taper the two sides and nail them to the bottom. The roller is
made 36” long and 2” in diameter, measuring ¼” from the end to
round the corners. Bore a hole in the end and put the handle on
it. Put a small metal pin in the end of roller to hold handle in
place. Tack the piece of zinc across narrow end of the worker,
making a hole in the centre to fit end of roller. Sandpaper when
completed.
[Illustration: Butter Worker.]
MILKING STOOL
A convenient device used in milking, which not only provides a seat for
the one who is milking, but a platform with a hoop to hold the bucket.
The bench is light in weight which makes it easy to handle. When not in
use it may be hung on the wall.
MATERIALS:
2½’ yellow pine.
1 piece of metal, 1” wide × 15” long, to make hoop to hold bucket.
¼ lb. 6-penny nails.
Sandpaper and paint.
[Illustration]
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 10” wide × 14” long.
_Brackets_: 4 pieces ¾” thick × 3” wide × 3” long to support top
shelf.
2 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 3” long to support shelf which
holds bucket.
_Shelf_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 3½” wide × 10” long to hold bucket.
_Ends_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 10” wide × 11⅛” long.
[Illustration]
DIRECTIONS:
Make the top of the stool, using the piece (¾” × 10” × 14”),
rounding both ends to a radius of 5”. Make the front and back
supports as shown in illustrations 4 and 5. Make the bucket
shelf (¾” × 3½” × 10”) next, fastening the two pieces (¾” × 2”
× 3”) to the shelf as supports and then nailing the whole to
end of stool. Sandpaper the stool and then paint the whole any
desired color, preferably white.
CHEESE-MAKING EQUIPMENT
Devices used in the process of making cottage, Neufchatel, and cream
cheese are given, accompanied by directions for the use of each of
these devices in the making of these cheeses.
_Construction of Drainer._--The rack shown in the figure is 13 inches
wide, 13 inches long, and 10 inches deep. The corner posts extend 1½
inches above and below the strips at the top and bottom with the tops
rounded as shown in the illustration. The bottom slats fit loosely into
notches, hence they may be removed when the draining rack is washed.
The materials required are four corner posts 1½ × 1½ inches; 15 strips
1 × ⅜ × 13 inches and 2 strips 1 × ⅜ × 13 inches notched to receive the
bottom slats. Pine or poplar may be used for the construction of this
device.
[Illustration]
_Construction of Press._--3 or 4 inch poplar boards 18 × 18 inches are
used for this press. Cleats are placed on the back of these boards to
keep them from warping. The lower board of this press has a circular
groove which has an outlet in one side to allow the whey to drain off.
[Illustration: Drawing the curd]
[Illustration: Pressing the curd]
[Illustration: Moulding the cheese]
[Illustration: Necessary equipment used in cheese-making]
_Cottage Cheese._--Cottage cheese has been produced from time
immemorial upon the farm. Ordinarily, it is made from milk that has
been allowed to stand until it thickens by natural souring. It is then
skimmed. After skimming, the rather firm mass of loppered milk is
stirred with a large wooden spoon.
Simultaneously with the gentle breaking of the coagulum the temperature
of the mixture of whey and curd is gradually raised to about 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and maintained at that temperature for five minutes. This
mixture should be stirred occasionally but not vigorously. Too much
stirring will cause the mass to drain slowly. After this heating
process the mixture of whey and curd is poured into the draining cloth;
usually muslin or cotton sheeting is stretched over the draining rack,
which is especially constructed for this purpose. Such a rack as shown
in the illustration can be made very easily and at a small cost. Thirty
pounds of milk per rack may be easily handled. Perhaps, in handling
the milk in this quantity, it would be advisable to make the rack
somewhat longer than the one illustrated. A rack rectangular in shape,
13 inches wide, 36 inches long and 10 inches deep is sufficient. The
draining mixture is left undisturbed for half an hour and then the curd
is worked toward the center of the cloth by means of a spoon or ladle.
The last of the whey is removed by raising and lowering repeatedly the
ends of the draining cloth. After draining the curd in this manner
the corner of the cloth is folded over to form a sack and the curd is
placed between the heavy boards or press. If more pressure is needed
weights may be placed on the top board. When the curd has acquired the
consistency desired it is salted to suit the taste, and usually a small
amount of cream is added. The use of the latter, however, is entirely
optional.
The expulsion of the whey by heating hardens the particles of curd,
giving a grainy texture to the mass.
_Neufchatel Cheese._--Fresh clean milk is required to make a high-grade
Neufchatel cheese. In no case should the milk be over twelve hours old.
A slow development of a clean acid flavor is demanded. The addition of
a commercial lactic starter in small amounts aids in obtaining curd
free from objectionable ferments. Too much starter will produce acid
too rapidly and give a rough mealy curd. A very satisfactory product
may be secured, if the milk is reasonably clean, without using any
starter.
_Starter._--The starter is merely soured milk. In making a home-made
starter place a clean milk bottle and tumbler in a pan of cold water
and bring same to boiling; remove the bottle, allow it to cool and then
fill it with the freshest, cleanest milk available. The bottle should
now be covered with a sterilized glass tumbler in order to prevent the
entrance of dirt. Allow the milk to sour at a temperature of about 75°
F. (room temperature).
Two cubic centimeters of active starter for each thirty-pound can of
milk will give good results. After adding the starter the milk is
vigorously stirred and warmed to a temperature of 80° F. Rennet is now
added at the rate of 30 drops per 100 pounds of milk. Upon a small
scale junket tablets may be used for curdling purposes. The mixture,
after being thoroughly stirred, is left at rest over night at room
temperature, or preferably a little higher. The firm curd is now poured
upon the draining rack as with the cottage cheese and allowed to drain
for about two hours. Toward the end of the draining period the curd is
worked toward the center of the cloth by means of a ladle. The cloths
containing the curd are now tied together bag fashion and pressed. The
hand-made contrivance illustrated may be used, or merely allow weights
to rest on bags of curd over night. The more whey that is removed the
better will be the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese. The curd
should drain out and not dry out. Mix in the salt to suit the taste by
using a butter worker or a pail and potato masher. Ordinarily about one
ounce of salt to four pounds of curd is sufficient. The cheese is now
ready to be run through the food chopper and molded. Sometimes it is
packed tightly into screw top jars or jelly glasses with tight covers,
but usually the cheese is molded into shape and wrapped in parchment
paper, surrounded by tin foil to exclude the air. Such molds may be
formed by hand closely enough to exclude the air. Butter printers are
often used. If the work is done upon a small scale some kind of a hand
formed package is probably most economical.
_Cream Cheese._--Cream cheese is made in practically the same way as
Neufchatel cheese except that the former is made out of cream testing
from 6 to 8 per cent. fat.
More detailed information on the subject of making cheese can be
obtained from the bulletins and books suggested for reference reading
in the list given in the back of this book.
=APPENDIX=
FUNDAMENTALS IN WOODWORKING
NOTE.--Some of the terms used in the text are explained in this chapter.
_Tenon._--A tenon is a piece of wood shaped like a tongue by dividing
the end into three rectangular parts, cutting the sides away and
leaving the middle which is shaped to form a tongue.
_Mortise._--A mortise is a hollow cut in to receive a corresponding
piece of wood. It is made by measuring the required distances on a
piece of wood and boring holes. Take out these portions of wood with
a chisel until the mortise is of the required size. Mortise and tenon
joints put together in one direction, as those made in the back of
a chair, are much easier made than those which are joined in two
directions, as in the framework of a stool.
_Mitred Joint._--There are many modifications of this joint but the one
most used is the one made at an angle of 45 degrees. Mitred joints are
easily made but they have a tendency to shrink, leaving an opening on
the inside of the joint.
_Cleat._--A piece of wood nailed down to secure something from
slipping. The size of a cleat will be determined by the weight which it
is to hold.
_Bevel._--A bevel is a finished edge to a piece of wood. The kind of
problem must determine the kind of beveled edge to be made. The blade
of the square must be set at the correct angle in making a bevel edge.
The most popular bevel is made by setting the bevel square at an angle
of 45 degrees.
_Bracket or Brace._--A supporting piece for a shelf or any other place
which needs strengthening.
_Panel._--Any area out of level. It may be sunk below or raised above
the general face of the surrounding work. They are set in grooves made
the proper depth with a plane. Every piece of wood used in panelling
must be straight with the face surface of the wood and straight and
square with the front edge to make a flat and square panel.
_Groove._--A groove is a furrow or a long hollow. The depth of the
furrow depends on the rail it is to hold.
_Taper._--A taper is a graduated point. All parts of the surface must
have the same amount of taper to make it equally tight at all points
when driven into place. Draw lines on the end of the wood and across
the center at equal distances from the corners and with the surface
straight on both sides. Care must be taken not to split the corners
while making a taper.
_Plugs._--Plugs are pieces of tapered wood used as a stopper, such as
in the illustration of Jelly Strainer No. 2. When plugs are to be used,
the holes must be made in the wood before the pieces are put together.
“_Penny._”--This term is a corruption of “pound” and used in speaking
of different kinds of nails. For example, eight-penny nails means that
one thousand of them weigh eight pounds.
_Radius Bar._--A bar pivoted at one end, about which it swings, and
having its other end attached to a piece which it causes to move in a
circular arc as in the corrugated roller made to work the butter.
_Finishing._--There are two things to be considered in finishing
woodwork; the preservation of the wood, and the artistic finish. Three
steps are necessary in putting on the finishing touches. First, the
surfaces made smooth by the use of sandpaper; the second, staining or
varnishing, and the third, polishing.
_Sandpaper._--Sandpaper is not expected to do the work of edged tools.
Tool work must be completed before using sandpaper, or particles of
dust will get into the pores of the wood which will dull the tools
while working with them. Never sandpaper across the grain of the wood.
While dressing flat surfaces, use a piece of sandpaper put over a block
of wood.
_Stains._--Water, oil, and alcoholic stains are used for staining
woodwork. All have their advantages and disadvantages, but for general
purposes the alcoholic stains are highly recommended, Johnson’s wood
dye being one of the best. A good water stain is made by boiling an
extract of logwood, the size of a walnut, with four ounces of water.
This is applied to the wood while hot, using a brush or sponge with
which to apply it. Repeat the application until the desired color is
obtained. Varnish must be used only when a hard, transparent finish is
desired.
_Polish or Wax._--Satisfactory results cannot be obtained unless the
surface is smooth and well prepared by the use of sandpaper and stain.
A cheap recipe for making wax is given as follows:
1 lb. beeswax.
½ pt. alcohol.
1 pt. turpentine.
Break up the beeswax and melt it into the consistency of thick cream
in a bowl placed in a saucepan of boiling water. Remove bowl from the
fire, gradually beating into the wax the turpentine and alcohol. Store
it away in covered jars and warm slightly when it is to be used. Spread
a thin layer on a soft woollen cloth and apply it to the surface.
SUGGESTED LIST OF TOOLS
1 Stanley “Bed Rock” smooth-plane, No. 603 $1.60
1 Disston’s Crosscut-saw, No. 9, 22”--10 points 1.15
1 Disston’s Back-saw, No. 4, 10” .95
1 Buck Bros. firmer chisel, 1” .35
1 Buck Bros. firmer chisel, ¼” .20
1 Hammond’s Adze-eye hammer, No. 3, 7 oz. .45
1 Hardened blade try-square, No. 5½, 6” .25
1 Beech Marking-gage, No. 64½, 8” .20
1 Sloyd Knife, No. 7, 2½” blade .30
1 Boxwood rule, 2’, 4-fold .12
1 Barber’s ratchet brace, No. 33, 8” sweep 1.40
1 Miter-box, beech, 12” long, No. 00 .30
4 Brad awls, handled, 1”, 1¼”, 1½”, ½” .15
1 Set Russell Jennings Auger-bits, 4/16”, 5/16”, 6/16”,
7/16”, and 8/16” 1.40
1 Quire sandpaper, No. 00 .30
1 Quire sandpaper, No. 1 .30
----
Total $9.42
NOTE: Sufficient equipment for constructing all of these devices may be
found in average country homes. The work may be successfully done with
fewer tools but this list is given as a suggestion for schools.
LIST OF PUBLICATIONS FOR SUPPLEMENTARY READING
Farm Butter-making, Farmers’ Bulletin 541, U. S. Department of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
Butter-making on the Farm, Georgia State College of Agriculture,
Athens, Ga.
Butter-making, Storrs Experiment Station, Storrs, Conn.
Cheese-making, Wisconsin Experiment Station, Madison, Wis.,
Bulletin 181.
Neufchatel Cheese, Bulletin 78, Storrs Experiment Station, Storrs,
Conn.
Cottage or Dutch Cheese and Other Cheese, Oklahoma Agricultural
College, Stillwater, Okla.
Conveniences for Handling the Farm Cow and Her Products, Special,
U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Office of the Secretary,
Washington, D. C.
The Production and Care of Milk and Cream, Special, U. S. Dept. of
Agri., Office of the Secretary, Washington, D. C.
A Plan for a Small Dairy House, Farmers’ Bulletin 689,
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
The Control of Chicken Mites and Lice, Iowa State College of
Agriculture, Ames, Iowa.
How to Care for the Little Chick, West Virginia University Agri.
Exp. Station, Morgantown, W. Va.
Suggestions on Poultry Raising for the Southern Farmer, Special,
U. S. Department of Agriculture, Office of the Secretary,
Washington, D. C.
Oregon Station Trap-Nest, Oregon Agricultural College, Corvallis,
Oregon.
A Simple Trap-Nest for Poultry, Farmers’ Bulletin 682, U. S.
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
The Organization of Boys’ and Girls’ Poultry Clubs, Farmers’
Bulletin 562, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.
C.
Running Water for Farm Homes, A. & M. College, Agricultural
College, Miss.
Domestic Water Supply, Bulletin 215 by V. M. Cone, Special,
Colorado Extension Service, Fort Collins, Colorado.
Simple Water Supplies for the Farm, Extension Bulletin 18,
University of Nebraska, Lincoln, Nebr.
INDEX
Barrel, garbage, 74
Bath, shower, 80
Board, ironing, 19
Box, blacking, 61
Box, coal, 31
Boxes, dust, for poultry, 97
Box, wood, 37
Brooder, 98
Butter-making equipment, 99
Cabinet, wall, for kitchen, 17
Chariot, scrubbing, 75
Cheese-making equipment, 108
Cook stove drier, 34
Cooker, fireless, 39
Drainer, dish, 26
House, poultry, 84
Hopper, dry mash, for poultry No. 1, 89
Hopper, dry mash, for poultry No. 2, 92
Mop, dustless, 67
Nests, poultry, 85
Publications, list for supplementary reading, 116
Rack, cheese, 108
Rack, dish, 28
Rack, oat-sprouting trays, 95
Refrigerator, iceless, No. 1, 51
Refrigerator, iceless, No. 2, 55
Roller towel, 63
Screen, house, 49
Screen, sewing, 77
Sideboard, 46
Stand, umbrella, 58
Strainer, jelly, No. 1, 21
Strainer, jelly, No. 2, 24
Stool, milking, 106
Swing, porch, 65
Table, folding canning, 68
Table, vegetable paring, 15
Tester, egg, 86
Tools, suggested list, 115
Trap, fly, 71
Vessel, drinking, for poultry, 97
Wagon, roller tray, 43
Waterworks system, practical, 82
Woodworking, fundamentals in, 112
Worker, butter, 104
Transcriber’s Note:
Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like
this_. Those in bold are surrounded by equal signs, =like this=. Final
stops missing at the end of sentences and abbreviations were added.
The following were changed:
changed 5” to 5’, dimensions of iceless refrigerator No. 2
added “×” to 15” wide × 15” long
added “down” to halfway down the panel.
added “with” to “... outside of screen with burlap ...”
changed “1.10” to “⅒” in Narrow Ration Food recipe
changed “1.10” to “⅒” part meat in Narrow Ration Food recipe