DRY FLY TACKLE AND EQUIPMENT.
MODERN glued-up cane rods have practically done away with hickory, blue
gum, or other wooden rods--at any rate, as far as dry fly angling is
concerned. Their action when well made is so true and quick, they pick
up the line from the water in the way their forerunners never could;
they are not liable to snap or break, and if tended carefully are very
long-lived. Most of us have old favourite greenheart or other rods,
companions in many a pleasant hour. We would not part with them, but on
the other hand would leave them lying in their cases, taking out our
cane rods in preference. The big grip on the butt, whether of cork,
leather, or wood, prevents to a great extent the cramp to the fingers
that would be certain to come from using our former small-butted rods
in dry fly work.
Built-up cane rods vary, of course, greatly in quality and durability.
Cheap ones may be bought, and they will certainly turn out a dear
purchase. It is best to buy one from the very best makers only, and
eschew as worthless all cheap imitations. Having decided to purchase
a built-up rod, we have to consider its length, etc. It is, I think,
generally agreed that a length of from 9 ft. 6 in. to 10 ft. 6 in.
is ample--the latter, in my opinion, for choice. Messrs. Hardy, of
Alnwick and London, have devoted so much labour and attention to
built-up rods as to deserve a somewhat pre-eminent position amongst
the many successful firms that make them. This firm produces many
forms of rods suitable for dry fly work. Their "Perfection" rod is a
very sweet weapon for the purpose, quick in its action, true as steel,
has great power of recovery, and is light in the hand; but for choice
I would pin my faith to one of their 10 ft. 6 in. "Pope" rods in two
pieces. Such a one has been my constant companion for some seasons,
and, though other makers may be able to turn out as good a rod, I feel
convinced that none could turn out a better. The old attachments of
the ferrules of former days have also gone by the board, and a bayonet
joint has superseded them, to our great advantage. The upper ring on
the point should be of the Bickerdyke pattern, the other rod rings of
the ordinary snake pattern and made of German silver. The reel fittings
should be of the "Universal" type, a conical socket taking one end of
the reel base, the other end being secured by a loose ring. Personally,
I do not care for a spear; I find them awkward at times, their only
advantage being that your rod may be spiked when putting on a fly or
when hand-lining a "weeded" fish. If one is desired, it should be
carried inside the handle of the butt, the button screwing over it and
holding it in its place.
I would not advocate a steel-centred rod, at any rate for a
single-handed trout rod. The absolute union of metal and cane can never
be secured, nor can the action of the two be precisely identical.
Besides, how are you advantaged? The hexagonal form of the built-up rod
is ideal for strength, and a rod without a steel centre can be made
with perfect action, able to do all that may be required of it.
Reels also have undergone great improvements of late years. They are
lighter, more easily cleaned, the check action is better regulated; a
double check spring that allows the line to be reeled up quickly and
easily, and at the same time offers a stronger resistance to an outward
pull, is now almost universally employed. Aluminium, thin-brazed steel,
have replaced brass and even ebonite. The air is admitted to the coils
of line, and reeling up is rendered more rapid and effective. The
"Moscrop" reel is excellent in many ways, and fulfils many of the chief
requirements of modern reels, it has, moreover, a screw drag, which can
be used to regulate the retarding action of the check. Messrs. Hardy
produce an altogether admirable reel, which they have patented and call
the "Perfect." Such a reel for an ordinary cane-built rod of the length
we have chosen should be three inches in diameter, and will carry
forty yards of tapered line, with some backing, if thought necessary or
desirable.
Avoid for choice patent aluminium American reels. I have one by me
whilst writing. The check action is outside, and can be taken off
at pleasure and the line allowed to run freely without hindrance.
The perforated face of the drum which carries the handle is
counter-balanced, so that it may be used as a Nottingham reel. But the
main advantage claimed is that the rim, within which the drum revolves
freely, is springy, and by pressing the thumb upon it the drum is at
once arrested and its revolution stopped. Of course, by this means
your line can be absolutely stopped at any moment should a fish make
a determined rush into any obstacle, but at the expense of your fly
and cast. I am told that experts with this reel cast with a free line,
arresting the fly at the precise moment required by the thumb pressure,
and thereby assisting themselves in judging the length of the cast, and
that the check is never clicked into action until the fish is hooked.
I have often tried it, and found that the inadvertent pressure of the
thumb or wrist upon the rim has cost me several good fish. In fixing
your reel, I would counsel its being so placed that the handle is on
the left side of the rod. In playing the fish it will be necessary,
therefore, to reverse your rod; the line will then run near the rod and
avoid the friction against the rings, and the strain will be taken off
your rod, or, rather, applied in a contrary direction to that which it
so constantly receives when casting.
The line should be tapered, and should be of oil-dressed silk, such
as is now supplied by all good tackle makers. The taper should be
five or six yards in length, and when in use, in order to obviate the
constant shortening process it receives from attaching it to your
cast, I invariably whip a length of stoutish grilse gut to its end,
to which I attach my cast. This upper length can always be renewed at
pleasure. This plan I find better than a loop. The weight of the line
is a most important point; it should be as heavy in its centre part
beyond the taper as will bring out the best casting powers of your rod.
The balance of the line to the rod is all important; a little trouble
in selecting a suitable line will be amply repaid. Do not forget, after
using it, to draw off many coils of line to dry before finally putting
your reel away, and, as it is important that your line should float
well, do not forget to take some deer's fat with you with which to
anoint it.
We next come to the cast. Two and a half yards of tapered gut are all
that is necessary, tapered from stout to the finest undrawn procurable.
I would discard drawn gut altogether, possibly because I am too clumsy
to use it to my satisfaction. It is generally, however, easy to procure
real undrawn gut of sufficient fineness from such firms as Ramsbottom,
and a hank of such gut, in fifteen or sixteen-inch strands, should
always be acquired when found. If kept out of the light, wrapped
preferably in chamois leather, it will keep a long time. Take with
you some dozen or so of such strands and a spare made-up cast in your
damping box, and you will have all you will require in a day's fishing.
Your landing-net should be ample in circumference. The net itself deep
and commodious; the ring should be solid, of bent wood, with a knuckle
joint of gunmetal to attach it to the handle. The net should be of
dressed cord, so that the fly will not become fixed in the knots. It
is a great mistake to have too short a handle; you may have to reach
far over sedges to get at your fish to land him. If you sling your
landing-net on your left side, as is usually done, a long handle is
very inconvenient in kneeling; therefore, use a telescope handle for
choice. Wading trousers or stockings and brogues will complete your
equipment, though, of course, some kind of basket or bag will be needed
to enable you to carry your luncheon, your tackle, and your fish. All
tackle makers will supply you with an ample assortment for choice in
this matter. Possibly a waterproof bag with partitions and an outside
net to place the fish in is the most convenient. Small linen bags in
which to place the fish or linen cloths in which to wrap them are not
out of place. One further article I should advise you to take with
you, and that is a good pair of field glasses. They will multiply the
pleasure of your stalk tenfold. With them you can search the water
before you can spot effectively the most desirable fish, and ascertain
more exactly what flies the fish are taking; whilst, if nothing is
doing and the fish are lying like stones on the river bed or huddled
away in the recesses of the weeds, you can amuse yourself with watching
bird life and while away the time to your infinite pleasure.
Having fully equipped ourselves so far, we have now to consider our
flies. I take it that no one who fishes with the floating fly nowadays
clings to the use of flies mounted upon gut. Eyed flies have no doubt
replaced them for all time. The very drying of your fly is too severe
upon the heads of gut-mounted flies. Eyed hooks have, however, had
to fight their way to the front, so prejudiced are we all, and I can
picture to myself now a prominent legislator, a great angler and the
author of one of the best sporting books published of late, standing by
me on Test side, on a meadow near Longparish, his cap literally covered
with artificial flies attached to strands of gut--a most extraordinary
sight. The fish were most unkind, taking greedily some kind of small
black insect, or fisherman's curse. We had offered them every kind of
midge fly or black gnat we could think of, with scant success. Our
friend, in gazing for the twentieth time at his fly-bedecked cap, saw a
group of black ants, on gut, amongst others. The first one put on not
only procured a rise, but hooked the fish; one run, and he was gone,
the fly remaining in his mouth. So with the next. In vain we soaked the
gut; each fly met with the same result--it was at once taken and the
fish was at once lost. The gut was absolutely rotten, and that pattern
of ant was apparently the only medicine. Our friend fairly danced
upon the bank in rage and disappointment. And it was all he could
do to restrain himself from dancing on his rod and from using very
unparliamentary language. I believe that even he is a convert to eyed
flies now.
Whether the flies should have turned up or turned down eyes is a matter
of controversy. Personally, I prefer the latter. In any case, the eye
should not be too small, or much mental anguish will result. It is
needless to say that they should be well tempered and with sound barbs.
They should be tested in a piece of soft wood.
Have a reserve box of flies, made in compartments, so that you can
replenish from time to time the little box you carry with you. This
pocket box may be quite small. I like one three inches square and
one inch deep, with rounded corners, and with bars of cork across it
inside. It will carry all you need. My pliers I always attach to one
of the buttons of my coat, as otherwise I am always misplacing them.
Nothing beats Major Turle's Knot as an attachment of the gut collar to
the fly.
If you should be fishing the evening rise at a time when it is
difficult to thread the eye of a fly, even with the expenditure of
many matches, do not forget before you go out to mount some sedges or
large red quills upon fairly stout gut points and put them in your cap.
They will come in most usefully, and save a strain upon your temper.
The use of deodorised mineral oil for anointing your flies has been
greatly decried of late. I can only say that it is a great assistance,
especially on a pouring wet day, and I should be sorry to be without
it. I do not like, however, the inconvenient bottle generally carried
for this purpose. I use a common metal matchbox, in which I have
placed a piece of spungeo-piline, on which I have poured a few drops
of the oil. The hackles of the fly can be pressed against this, and
so anointed with the greatest ease. Fish do not appear to mind the
appearance of the oil that, of course, appears to float round your fly;
and, as they do not mind and it enables you better to keep your fly
floating and cocked under adverse conditions, why not use it?
As to the flies to be used, as I have said in another chapter, the
fewer the better.
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