[Illustration: ROSS CASTLE, KILLARNEY.]
We have heard some of our readers express surprise that we should not
before this have taken notice, among our topographical collections,
of some of the features of the far-famed Lakes of Killarney; but the
truth is, that those features, though of the highest beauty, are not,
for the greater part, such as wood-cut illustrations could adequately
express; and even those which are properly suited to the powers of the
graver have been in most instances already so often drawn and described,
that it is now almost hopeless to expect to find either any new points
of view or historical incidents connected with them, which have not
already been made familiar to the reading public. Still, as our little
weekly pennyworth is not intended exclusively for the wealthy and well
informed, but even to a greater extent for those by whom more expensive
publications are unattainable, it is right that we should occasionally
notice subjects of popular interest, however familiar they may have been
already made to a portion of our readers; and in doing so, we trust that
we shall be able to make them in some degree acceptable to all, by the
fidelity of our drawings, or the occasional novelty of the facts with
which we shall illustrate them.
We have chosen, accordingly, as the first of our Killarney subjects, the
old favourite Ross Castle; not indeed as the best or least hacknied, but
as properly that which should begin the series, for it is the first with
which the Killarney tourist becomes familiar, and from which he usually
starts to enjoy all the others.
In a historical and antiquarian point of view, however, Ross Castle is
indeed one of the most interesting objects to be found in connection
with the enchanting scenery of the lakes. It is the time-worn fortress
of their ancient chiefs, and its presence connects the history of man
in distant times with the objects of eternal natural beauty by which it
is surrounded, and imparts to them that delightful feeling or charm of
romance which, exquisite as they are, they would necessarily want if it
were absent.
Ross Castle, as its present remains show, was similar in its plan
and construction to most of those erected by the Irish chiefs in the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and consisted of a lofty square tower
or keep, to which were attached the domestic offices, all which were
surrounded by out-works enclosing an ample bawn, and flanked by small
circular towers at their angles. In its general character, therefore,
Ross Castle has no peculiar features worthy of notice; and its chief
interest is derived from its situation, which is of the most striking
beauty, commanding the richest scenery of the lower lake, and its wooded
isles, shores, and mountains. It is situated on the east shore of the
lower lake, upon the narrow neck of the Ross or peninsula from which it
derives its name, and which, by an artificial cut through a morass,
across which a small bridge is thrown, has been converted into an island.
Neither the date of the erection of this castle nor the name of its
founder has been preserved; but its architectural style will not allow us
to suppose it much older than the early part of the fifteenth century,
and history shows that it was for a considerable period the residence of
the illustrious family of O’Donoghoe, hereditary chiefs of the territory
called the Eoganacht, or Onaght of Lough Lein, or the present lower lake
of Killarney.
The great antiquity and dignity of the family of O’Donoghoe still lives
in the popular legends of the people, and is abundantly proved, by the
Irish annals and genealogies. In an inaugural ode which was recited by
the poet Cathan O’Duinnin at the inauguration of Teige the Generous
O’Donoghoe, in 1320, and which is still preserved in the MS. library of
Trinity College, the pedigree of the O’Donoghoes, with their filiations,
is given, through twenty-seven generations, from Core, the son of
Lughaidh King of Munster in 380, to that time, and there is no reason to
doubt its accuracy or historic truth. Our space will not permit us to
enter at any length on the history of this illustrious family, but we
may observe, that its ancient rank is sufficiently proved by the fact,
as stated in the Annals of Inisfallin, that their ancestor Donnell, the
son of Duvdavoran, was the second in command of the Eugenian forces at
the memorable battle of Clontarf, and that shortly after that conflict he
contested the sovereignty of Desmond or South Munster with its king, and
slew him in battle.
In subsequent ages the family of O’Donoghoe split into three great
branches; that of O’Donoghoe More, or the great, of which Ross Castle
became the residence; O’Donoghoe of the Glens; and O’Donoghoe of Lough
Lein. Of these three families the first and last are supposed to be
extinct, and are at least reduced to poverty; but that of the Glens is
still represented by O’Donoghoe of Killarney, who is consequently the
reputed chief of this illustrious family. By a happy chance, very rare
in Ireland, O’Donoghoe, who is as yet a minor, possesses a considerable
portion of the estates of his ancestors of the Glens; but the properly of
the O’Donoghoe More, or Ross, as well as that of the O’Donoghoe of Lough
Lein, has been long in the possession of the noble house of Kenmare, of
which their ancestor Sir Valentine Brown made a purchase from Donald
M’Carty More, Earl of Clancarthy, as early as the year 1588, it having
been forfeited by Rory O’Donoghoe More some time previously. These lands,
as Dr Smith acquaints us, were subsequently confirmed to the grandson of
the first purchaser, Valentine, son of Nicholas Brown, by letters patent
of King James I. which passed the seal May 12, 1612, and included with
others the entire country of Onaugh, alias Onaught O’Donoghoe More, in
the county of Desmond, in which were contained the manor and lake of
the Castle of Ross, with divers islands in Lough Lein, with all other
his estate, containing 82 quarters of land, amounting to 6560 acres,
besides the fishings belonging to the manor of Ross-I-Donoghoe, all which
premises came to the family by immediate bargain and grant from the Earl
of Clancarthy, by the indenture before mentioned. “But,” as Smith adds,
“some question being made of the validity of this grant from the crown,
the king, by privy seal, dated at Greenwich, 28th May 1618, directed
Sir Oliver St John, lord-deputy, to accept a surrender thereof from him
[Valentine], and to re-grant the same to him in fee by a new patent, for
clearing all doubt, and the better settlement of his estate.”
But though the lands of O’Donoghoe More have passed away from his race,
he still retains possession of the waters: and, though dead himself
corporeally, he still lives, and governs spiritually in his ancient
principality. If, reader, you doubt the truth of our statement, ask
the people of the lakes, and they will at once remove your scepticism.
They will tell you that he frequently appears to them on May-day, on a
milk-white horse, gliding over the glassy lake to the sound of unearthly
music, and attended by troops of spirits scattering spring flowers.
They differ, indeed, a good deal in their accounts of the appearance
of their ancient lord. Derrick, in his amusing Letters on Killarney,
written in 1760, tells us that he was assured, when O’Donoghoe revisits
his friends, which is every May morning before sunrise, he is “attended
by an incredible number of followers, wrestling, hurling, and playing
football upon the surface of the lake, which affords them as sure footing
as the solid earth.” And Derrick’s friend, Mr Ockenden, whose letters
descriptive of Killarney are printed in the same volume, describes
O’Donoghoe’s horse not as a white but a black one. As this gentleman’s
account of O’Donoghoe’s visits is the most minute, as well as the
earliest, that we have seen, we are tempted to give it in full.
“There lived in the largest island (for there are several islands on the
lake) many hundred years ago, a petty prince, named O’Donoghoe, who was
lord of the whole lake, the surrounding shore, and a large district of
neighbouring country. He manifested, during his stay upon earth, great
munificence, great humanity, and great wisdom; for, by his profound
knowledge in all the secret powers of nature, he wrought wonders as
miraculous as any tradition has recorded of saints by the aid of angels,
or of sorcerers by the assistance of demons; and among many other most
astonishing performances he rendered his person immortal. After having
continued a long time upon the surface of the globe without growing old,
he one day, at Ross Castle (the place where he most usually resided),
took leave of his friends, and rising from the floor, like some aërial
existence, passed through the window, shot away horizontally to a
considerable distance from the castle, and then descended. The water
unfolding at his approach, gave him entrance down to the subaqueous
regions, and then, to the inexpressible astonishment of all beholders,
closed over his head, as they believed, for ever: but in this they were
mistaken.
He returned again some years after, revisiting, not, like Hamlet’s ghost,
‘the glimpses of the moon making night hideous,’ but the radiance of the
sun making day joyful, to those at least who saw him: since which time he
has continued to make very frequent expeditions to these upper regions,
sometimes three or four in a year; but sometimes three or four years pass
without his once appearing, which the bordering inhabitants have always
looked on as a mark of very bad times.
It was feared this would be the third year he would suffer to elapse
without his once cheering their eyes with his presence: but at the latter
end of last August he again appeared, to the inexpressible joy of all,
and was seen by numbers in the middle of the day. I had the curiosity,
before I left Killarney, to visit one of the witnesses to this very
marvellous fact.
The account she gives is, that returning with a kinswoman to her house
at the head of the lake, they both beheld a fine gentleman, mounted upon
a black horse, ascend through the water with a numerous retinue on foot,
who all moved together along the surface towards a small island, near
which they again descended under water. This account is confirmed, in
time, place, and circumstances, by many more spectators from the side of
the lake, who are all ready to swear, and not improbably to suffer death,
in support of their testimony.
His approach is sometimes preceded by music inconceivably harmonious;
sometimes by thunder inexpressibly loud; but oftenest without any
warning whatsoever. He always rises through the surface of the lake,
and generally amuses himself upon it, but not constantly: for there is
a farmer now alive, who declares, as I am told, that riding one evening
near the lower end of the lake, he was overtaken by a gentleman who
seemed under thirty years of age, very handsome in his person, very
sumptuous in his apparel, and very affable in his conversation. After
having travelled for some time together, the nobleman (for such he judged
him to be by his appearance) observed, that as night was approaching, the
town far off, and lodging not easy to be found, he should be welcome to
take a bed that night at his house, which, he said, was not very distant.
The invitation was readily accepted; they approached the lake together,
and both their horses moved upon the surface without sinking, to the
infinite amazement of the farmer, who thence perceived the stranger to be
no less than the great O’Donoghoe. They rode a considerable distance from
shore, and then, descending into a delightful country under water, lay
that night in a house much larger in size and much more richly furnished
than even Lord Kenmare’s at Killarney.”
With respect, however, to the colour of O’Donoghoe’s horse, the
prevailing belief seems now to be, that it is a white one, and this
notion has been adopted by our national bard, Moore, in his beautiful
song called “O’Donoghoe’s Mistress,” which, as he informs us, is founded
on one among other stories connected with this legend of the lakes, and
in which it is said that there was a young and beautiful girl, whose
imagination was so impressed with the idea of this visionary chieftain,
that she fancied herself in love with him, and at last, in a fit of
insanity, on a May morning, threw herself into the lake. But we had
better give the song itself:--
Of all the fair months, that round the sun
In light-linked dance their circles run,
Sweet May, shine thou for me;
For still, when thy earliest beams arise,
That youth, who beneath the blue lake lies,
Sweet May, returns to me.
Of all the bright haunts, where daylight leaves
Its lingering smile on golden eves,
Fair lake, thou’rt dearest to me;
For when the last April sun grows dim,
Thy Naiads prepare his steed for him,
Who dwells, bright lake, in thee.
Of all the proud steeds that ever bore
Young plumed chiefs on sea or shore,
White steed, most joy to thee;
Who still, with the first young glance of spring,
From under that glorious lake dost bring
My love, my chief, to me.
While, white as the sail some bark unfurls,
When newly launch’d, thy long mane curls,
Fair steed, as white and free;
And spirits, from all the lake’s deep bowers,
Glide o’er the blue wave scattering flowers,
Around my love and thee.
Of all the sweet deaths that maidens die,
Whose lovers beneath the cold wave lie,
Most sweet that death will be,
Which under the next May evening’s light,
When thou and thy steed are lost to sight,
Dear love, I’ll die for thee.
But we have been attracted by this phantom chief too long from our
immediate subject, and we must now return to it. From the historical
notices of Ross Castle, as collected by the historian of Kerry, it will
be seen that it was of old a place of some strength and importance, and
that its possession was not to be acquired without expense and trouble.
In his description of Ross island, published in 1756, Dr Smith states
that “on it stands an ancient castle, formerly the seat of O’Donoghoe
Ross, which hath a new barrack adjoining to it. This place hath been for
some years past a military garrison, having a governor appointed for it
upon the establishment. Before the castle are a few dismounted iron guns,
which give it something the air of a fortification. The castle had been
flanked with round turrets, which together with its situation rendered it
a place of some strength. In the wars of 1641, it surrendered to Ludlow,
who was attended in the expedition by Lord Broughil and Sir Hardress
Waller, and was the last place that held out in Munster against the
English parliament.”
This surrender followed the decisive battle of Knockinclashy, in the
county of Cork, in 1652, fought by the Lord Broughil on the English
side, and the Lord Muskerry on that of the Irish, after which the latter
retreated into Ross Castle, and was followed thither by Ludlow, who,
with 4000 foot and 200 horse, laid siege to the castle. The subsequent
proceedings are thus described by Ludlow himself:--
“In this expedition I was accompanied by the Lord Broughil, and Sir
Hardress Waller, major-general of the foot. Being arrived at this
place, I was informed that the enemy received continual supplies from
those parts that lay on the other side, and were covered with woods and
mountains; whereupon I sent a party of two thousand foot to clear those
woods, and to find out some convenient place for erecting a fort, if
there should be occasion. These forces met with some opposition, but at
last they routed the enemy, killing some, and taking others prisoners:
the rest saved themselves by their good footmanship. Whilst this was
doing, I employed that part of the army which was with me in fortifying a
neck of land, where I designed to leave a party to keep in the Irish on
this side, that I might be at liberty, with the greater part of the horse
and foot, to look after the enemy abroad, and to receive and convoy such
boats and other things necessary as the commissioners sent us by sea.
When we had received our boats, each of which was capable of containing
one hundred and twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the
water, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon
the enemy; which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely submission,
to prevent the danger that threatened them; and having expressed their
desires to that purpose, commissioners were appointed on both sides to
treat.”
After a fortnight’s debate, says Ludlow, articles were agreed upon
and ratified on both sides; and the son of the Lord Muskerry and Sir
Daniel O’Brien were delivered up as hostages for the performance of the
treaty; in consequence of which, about 5000 Irish, horse and foot, laid
down their arms and delivered up their horses, and thus terminated the
hostilities in Munster.
Smith, in his History of Kerry, tells us that “a man whose name was
Hopkins, and who a few years ago was sexton of Swords, near Dublin,
was present at the taking and surrender of this place, and assisted in
drawing the above-mentioned vessel into the lake. The Irish,” he adds,
“had a kind of prophecy among them, that Ross Castle could not be taken
until a ship should swim upon the lake; and the appearance of this vessel
contributed not a little to intimidate the garrison, and to hasten the
capitulation. The said Hopkins lived to the age of one hundred and
fifteen years, and died at Swords.”
We have already stated that a barrack was erected in connection with the
castle in the commencement of the last century, and a small garrison
was kept here till a few years ago. These hideous barracks, as Sir R.
C. Hoare called them, were a dreadful eye-sore to all the lovers of
the picturesque who visited the Killarney lakes; but Ireland seems no
longer to require such structures, and the barrack of Ross Castle has
been some time dismantled, and its ivied walls now contribute to the
picturesqueness of the parent fortress.