CHAPTER XXIX

A professor of the fine arts—His persecutions—Something about tattooing

and tabooing—Two anecdotes in illustration of the latter—A few thoughts

on the Typee dialect.

In one of my strolls with Kory-Kory, in passing along the border of a

thick growth of bushes, my attention was arrested by a singular noise.

On entering the thicket, I witnessed for the first time the operation

of tattooing as performed by these islanders.

I beheld a man extended flat upon his back, on the ground, and, despite

the forced composure of his countenance, it was evident that he was

suffering agony. His tormentor bent over him, working away for all the

world like a stone-cutter with mallet and chisel. In one hand he held a

short slender stick, pointed with a shark’s tooth, on the upright end

of which he tapped with a small hammer-like piece of wood, thus

puncturing the skin, and charging it with the colouring matter in which

the instrument was dipped. A cocoa-nut shell containing this fluid was

placed upon the ground. It is prepared by mixing with a vegetable juice

the ashes of the “armor,” or candle-nut, always preserved for the

purpose. Beside the savage, and spread out upon a piece of soiled

tappa, were a great number of curious black-looking little implements

of bone and wood, used in the various divisions of his art. A few

terminated in a single fine point, and, like very delicate pencils,

were employed in giving the finishing touches, or in operating upon the

more sensitive portions of the body, as was the case of the present

instance. Others presented several points distributed in a line,

somewhat resembling the teeth of a saw. These were employed in the

coarser parts of the work, and particularly in pricking in straight

marks. Some presented their points disposed in small figures, and being

placed upon the body, were, by a single blow of the hammer, made to

leave their indelible impression. I observed a few, the handles of

which were mysteriously curved, as if intended to be introduced into

the orifice of the ear, with a view perhaps of beating the tattoo upon

the tympanum. Altogether, the sight of these strange instruments

recalled to mind that display of cruel-looking mother-of-pearl-handled

things which one sees in their velvet-lined cases at the elbow of a

dentist.

The artist was not at this time engaged on an original sketch, his

subject being a venerable savage, whose tattooing had become somewhat

faded with age and needed a few repairs, and accordingly he was merely

employed in touching up the works of some of the old masters of the

Typee school, as delineated upon the human canvas before him. The parts

operated upon were the eyelids, where a longitudinal streak, like the

one which adorned Kory-Kory, crossed the countenance of the victim.

In spite of all the efforts of the poor old man, sundry twitchings and

screwings of the muscles of the face denoted the exquisite sensibility

of these shutters to the windows of his soul, which he was now having

repainted. But the artist, with a heart as callous as that of an army

surgeon, continued his performance, enlivening his labours with a wild

chant, tapping away the while as merrily as a woodpecker.

So deeply engaged was he in his work, that he had not observed our

approach, until, after having enjoyed an unmolested view of the

operation, I chose to attract his attention. As soon as he perceived

me, supposing that I sought him in his professional capacity, he seized

hold of me in a paroxysm of delight, and was all eagerness to begin the

work. When, however, I gave him to understand that he had altogether

mistaken my views, nothing could exceed his grief and disappointment.

But recovering from this, he seemed determined not to credit my

assertion, and grasping his implements, he flourished them about in

fearful vicinity to my face, going through an imaginary performance of

his art, and every moment bursting into some admiring exclamation at

the beauty of his designs.

Horrified at the bare thought of being rendered hideous for life if the

wretch were to execute his purpose upon me, I struggled to get away

from him, while Kory-Kory, turning traitor, stood by, and besought me

to comply with the outrageous request. On my reiterated refusals the

excited artist got half beside himself, and was overwhelmed with sorrow

at losing so noble an opportunity of distinguishing himself in his

profession.

The idea of engrafting his tattooing upon my white skin filled him with

all a painter’s enthusiasm: again and again he gazed into my

countenance, and every fresh glimpse seemed to add to the vehemence of

his ambition. Not knowing to what extremities he might proceed, and

shuddering at the ruin he might inflict upon my figurehead, I now

endeavoured to draw off his attention from it, and holding out my arm

in a fit of desperation, signed to him to commence operations. But he

rejected the compromise indignantly, and still continued his attack on

my face, as though nothing short of that would satisfy him. When his

forefinger swept across my features, in laying out the borders of those

parallel bands which were to encircle my countenance, the flesh fairly

crawled upon my bones. At last, half wild with terror and indignation,

I succeeded in breaking away from the three savages, and fled towards

old Marheyo’s house, pursued by the indomitable artist, who ran after

me, implements in hand. Kory-Kory, however, at last interfered, and

drew him off from the chase.

This incident opened my eyes to a new danger; and I now felt convinced

that in some luckless hour I should be disfigured in such a manner as

never more to have the _face_ to return to my countrymen, even should

an opportunity offer.

These apprehensions were greatly increased by the desire which King

Mehevi and several of the inferior chiefs now manifested that I should

be tattooed. The pleasure of the king was first signified to me some

three days after my casual encounter with Karky the artist. Heavens!

what imprecations I showered upon that Karky. Doubtless he had plotted

a conspiracy against me and my countenance, and would never rest until

his diabolical purpose was accomplished. Several times I met him in

various parts of the valley, and, invariably, whenever he descried me,

he came running after me with his mallet and chisel, flourishing them

about my face as if he longed to begin. What an object he would have

made of me!

When the king first expressed his wish to me, I made known to him my

utter abhorrence of the measure, and worked myself into such a state of

excitement, that he absolutely stared at me in amazement. It evidently

surpassed his majesty’s comprehension how any sober-minded and sensible

individual could entertain the least possible objection to so

beautifying an operation.

Soon afterwards he repeated his suggestion, and meeting with a like

repulse, showed some symptoms of displeasure at my obduracy. On his a

third time renewing his request, I plainly perceived that something

must be done, or my visage was ruined for ever; I therefore screwed up

my courage to the sticking point, and declared my willingness to have

both arms tattooed from just above the wrist to the shoulder. His

majesty was greatly pleased at the proposition, and I was

congratulating myself with having thus compromised the matter, when he

intimated that as a thing of course my face was first to undergo the

operation. I was fairly driven to despair; nothing but the utter ruin

of my “face divine,” as the poets call it, would, I perceived, satisfy

the inexorable Mehevi and his chiefs, or rather that infernal Karky,

for he was at the bottom of it all.

The only consolation afforded me was a choice of patterns: I was at

perfect liberty to have my face spanned by three horizontal bars, after

the fashion of my serving-man’s; or to have as many oblique stripes

slanting across it: or if, like a true courtier, I chose to model my

style on that of royalty, I might wear a sort of freemason badge upon

my countenance in the shape of a mystic triangle. However, I would have

none of these, though the king most earnestly impressed upon my mind

that my choice was wholly unrestricted. At last, seeing my

unconquerable repugnance, he ceased to importune me.

But not so some other of the savages. Hardly a day passed but I was

subjected to their annoying requests, until at last my existence became

a burden to me; the pleasures I had previously enjoyed no longer

afforded me delight, and all my former desire to escape from the valley

now revived with additional force.

A fact which I soon afterwards learned augmented my apprehension. The

whole system of tattooing was, I found, connected with their religion;

and it was evident, therefore, that they were resolved to make a

convert of me.

In the decoration of the chiefs, it seems to be necessary to exercise

the most elaborate pencilling; while some of the inferior natives

looked as if they had been daubed over indiscriminately with a

house-painter’s brush. I remember one fellow who prided himself hugely

upon a great oblong patch, placed high upon his back, and who always

reminded me of a man with a blister of Spanish flies stuck between his

shoulders. Another whom I frequently met had the hollow of his eyes

tattooed in two regular squares, and his visual organs being remarkably

brilliant, they gleamed forth from out this setting like a couple of

diamonds inserted in ebony.

Although convinced that tattooing was a religious observance, still the

nature of the connection between it and the superstitious idolatry of

the people was a point upon which I could never obtain any information.

Like the still more important system of the “Taboo,” it always appeared

inexplicable to me.

There is a marked similarity, almost an identity, between the religious

institutions of most of the Polynesian islands, and in all exists the

mysterious “Taboo,” restricted in its uses to a greater or less extent.

So strange and complex in its arrangements is this remarkable system,

that I have in several cases met with individuals who, after residing

for years among the islands in the Pacific, and acquiring a

considerable knowledge of the language, have nevertheless been

altogether unable to give any satisfactory account of its operations.

Situated as I was in the Typee valley, I perceived every hour the

effects of this all-controlling power, without in the least

comprehending it. Those effects were, indeed, wide-spread and

universal, pervading the most important as well as the minutest

transactions of life. The savage, in short, lives in the continual

observance of its dictates, which guide and control every action of his

being.

For several days after entering the valley I had been saluted at least

fifty times in the twenty-four hours with the talismanic word “Taboo”

shrieked in my ears, at some gross violation of its provisions, of

which I had unconsciously been guilty. The day after our arrival I

happened to hand some tobacco to Toby over the head of a native who sat

between us. He started up, as if stung by an adder; while the whole

company, manifesting an equal degree of horror, simultaneously screamed

out “Taboo!” I never again perpetrated a similar piece of ill-manners,

which, indeed, was forbidden by the canons of good breeding, as well as

by the mandates of the taboo. But it was not always so easy to perceive

wherein you had contravened the spirit of this institution. I was many

times called to order, if I may use the phrase, when I could not for

the life of me conjecture what particular offence I had committed.

One day I was strolling through a secluded portion of the valley, and

hearing the musical sound of the cloth-mallet at a little distance, I

turned down a path that conducted me in a few moments to a house where

there were some half-dozen girls employed in making tappa. This was an

operation I had frequently witnessed, and had handled the bark in all

the various stages of its preparation. On the present occasion the

females were intent upon their occupation, and after looking up and

talking gaily to me for a few moments, they resumed their employment. I

regarded them for awhile in silence, and then, carelessly picking up a

handful of the material that lay around, proceeded unconsciously to

pick it apart. While thus engaged, I was suddenly startled by a scream,

like that of a whole boarding-school of young ladies just on the point

of going into hysterics. Leaping up with the idea of seeing a score of

Happar warriors about to perform anew the Sabine atrocity, I found

myself confronted by the company of girls, who, having dropped their

work, stood before me with starting eyes, swelling bosoms, and fingers

pointed in horror towards me.

Thinking that some venomous reptile must be concealed in the bark which

I held in my hand, I began cautiously to separate and examine it.

Whilst I did so the horrified girls redoubled their shrieks. Their wild

cries and frightened motions actually alarmed me, and throwing down the

tappa, I was about to rush from the house, when in the same instant

their clamours ceased, and one of them, seizing me by the arm, pointed

to the broken fibres that had just fallen from my grasp, and screamed

in my ears the fatal word “Taboo!”

I subsequently found out that the fabric they were engaged in making

was of a peculiar kind, destined to be worn on the heads of the

females, and through every stage of its manufacture was guarded by a

vigorous taboo, which interdicted the whole masculine gender from even

so much as touching it.

Frequently in walking through the groves I observed bread-fruit and

cocoa-nut trees, with a wreath of leaves twined in a peculiar fashion

about their trunks. This was the mark of the taboo. The trees

themselves, their fruit, and even the shadows they cast upon the

ground, were consecrated by its presence. In the same way a pipe, which

the king had bestowed upon me, was rendered sacred in the eyes of the

natives, none of whom could I ever prevail upon to smoke from it. The

bowl was encircled by a woven band of grass, somewhat resembling those

Turks’ heads occasionally worked in the handles of our whip-stalks.

A similar badge was once braided about my wrist by the royal hand of

Mehevi himself, who, as soon as he had concluded the operation,

pronounced me “Taboo.” This occurred shortly after Toby’s

disappearance; and were it not that from the first moment I had entered

the valley the natives had treated me with uniform kindness, I should

have supposed that their conduct afterwards was to be ascribed to the

fact that I received this sacred investiture.

The capricious operations of the taboo are not its least remarkable

feature: to enumerate them all would be impossible. Black hogs—infants

to a certain age—women in an interesting situation—young men while the

operation of tattooing their faces is going on—and certain parts of the

valley during the continuance of a shower—are alike fenced about by the

operation of the taboo.

I witnessed a striking instance of its effects in the bay of Tior, my

visit to which place occurred a few days before leaving the ship. On

that occasion our worthy captain formed one of the party. He was a most

insatiable sportsman. Outward bound, and off the pitch of Cape Horn, he

used to sit on the taffrail, and keep the steward loading three or four

old fowling-pieces, with which he would bring down albatrosses, Cape

pigeons, jays, petrels, and divers other marine fowl, who followed

chattering in our wake. The sailors were struck aghast at his impiety,

and one and all attributed our forty days’ beating about that horrid

headland to his sacrilegious slaughter of these inoffensive birds.

At Tior, he evinced the same disregard for the religious prejudices of

the islanders as he had previously shown for the superstitions of the

sailors. Having heard that there were a considerable number of fowls in

the valley—the progeny of some cocks and hens accidentally left there

by an English vessel, and which, being strictly tabooed, flew about

almost in a wild state—he determined to break through all restraints,

and be the death of them. Accordingly, he provided himself with a most

formidable-looking gun, and announced his landing on the beach by

shooting down a noble cock, that was crowing what proved to be his own

funeral dirge on the limb of an adjoining tree. “Taboo,” shrieked the

affrighted savages. “Oh, hang your taboo,” says the nautical sportsman;

“talk taboo to the marines”; and bang went the piece again, and down

came another victim. At this the natives ran scampering through the

groves, horror-struck at the enormity of the act.

All that afternoon the rocky sides of the valley rang with successive

reports, and the superb plumage of many a beautiful fowl was ruffled by

the fatal bullet. Had it not been that the French admiral, with a large

party, was then in the glen, I have no doubt that the natives, although

their tribe was small and dispirited, would have inflicted summary

vengeance upon the man who thus outraged their most sacred

institutions; as it was, they contrived to annoy him not a little.

Thirsting with his exertions, the skipper directed his steps to a

stream; but the savages, who had followed at a little distance,

perceiving his object, rushed towards him and forced him away from its

bank—his lips would have polluted it. Wearied at last, he sought to

enter a house that he might rest for awhile on the mats; its inmates

gathered tumultuously about the door and denied him admittance. He

coaxed and blustered by turns, but in vain; the natives were neither to

be intimidated nor appeased, and as a final resort he was obliged to

call together his boat’s crew, and pull away from what he termed the

most infernal place he ever stepped upon.

Lucky was it for him and for us that we were not honoured on our

departure by a salute of stones from the hands of the exasperated

Tiors. In this way, on the neighbouring island of Ropo, were killed,

but a few weeks previously, and for a nearly similar offence, the

master and three of the crew of the K——.

I cannot determine, with anything approaching to certainty, what power

it is that imposes the taboo. When I consider the slight disparity of

condition among the islanders—the very limited and inconsiderable

prerogatives of the king and chiefs—and the loose and indefinite

functions of the priesthood, most of whom were hardly to be

distinguished from the rest of their countrymen, I am wholly at a loss

where to look for the authority which regulates this potent

institution. It is imposed upon something to-day, and withdrawn

to-morrow; while its operations in other cases are perpetual. Sometimes

its restrictions only affect a single individual—sometimes a particular

family—sometimes a whole tribe; and, in a few instances, they extend

not merely over the various clans on a single island, but over all the

inhabitants of an entire group. In illustration of this latter

peculiarity, I may cite the law which forbids a female to enter a

canoe—a prohibition which prevails upon all the northern Marquesas

Islands.

The word itself (taboo) is used in more than one signification. It is

sometimes used by a parent to his child, when, in the exercise of

parental authority, he forbids it to perform a particular action.

Anything opposed to the ordinary customs of the islanders, although not

expressly prohibited, is said to be “taboo.”

The Typee language is one very difficult to be acquired; it bears a

close resemblance to the other Polynesian dialects, all of which show a

common origin. The duplication of words, as “lumee lumee,” “poee poee,”

“muee muee,” is one of their peculiar features. But another, and a more

annoying one, is the different sense in which one and the same word is

employed; its various meanings all have a certain connection, which

only makes the matter more puzzling. So one brisk, lively little word

is obliged, like a servant in a poor family, to perform all sorts of

duties. For instance—one particular combination of syllables expresses

the ideas of sleep, rest, reclining, sitting, leaning, and all other

things anyways analogous thereto, the particular meaning being shown

chiefly by a variety of gestures, and the eloquent expression of the

countenance.

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