PART III

THE INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER OF SUSSEX AND THE WAY TO SEE THE COUNTY

The efforts which many have made to describe a peculiar Sussex dialect

and peculiar Sussex methods of architecture, have been somewhat too

laborious. The example of other counties, notably of Devonshire, which

did possess a strictly defined local dialect and set of customs, has

tempted the patriotic historian of Sussex to find in that county

something which is not there. There is, indeed, a South country way of

speaking as all the world knows. It is to be found in the valley of

Meon, and it is to be found in Kent, and it is to be found in the

southern parts of Surrey. It occupies a large region, whose boundaries

are very vague and ill defined; it lies, roughly speaking, between the

North Downs and the sea, and is bounded westward by the New Forest. It

is not peculiar to the county of Sussex.

For example: A Sussex man will call a woodpecker a “yaffle,” which is a

name taken from its peculiar call--it is for all the world like a mad

laugh. Or again, he will talk of “steening a well,” that is, lining it

with bricks. Or again, he will call a toad stool a “puck” stool. He will

speak of a ploughshare as a “tourn vour,” that is, a “turn furrow”; and

so forth. But these phrases are to be heard all up and down the district

which I have mentioned. And the termination of place names, the peculiar

epithet by which a steep wood is called a “hanger,” or a horseshoe

depression in the Downs a “coombe,” though very Sussex, are not only

Sussex.

So it is with the South country architecture, notably with the building

of those fine “headed” chimneys which are its distinguishing feature.

You will find them all along the valley of the Medway and of the

Derwent, or the Stour, as much as you will find them in the valleys of

the Arun or the Adur.

It is not in the establishment of a Sussex folklore, dialect, or

architecture, that the peculiar and individual spirit of the county is

best discovered. It is rather in the character of its inhabitants. And

this again is fairly sharply divided between the eastern half of the

county and the western.

[Illustration: HIGH STREET, EAST GRINSTEAD]

[Sidenote: EFFECT OF THE IRONSTONE]

The East of Sussex, it seems fair to conjecture, has always been

influenced by the presence of iron. The iron is no longer worked, but

anywhere in the higher parts of the Eastern Weald one finds one’s self

treading upon ironstone, and one sees the streams running red with the

ore, and until so late as the Napoleonic Wars the exploitation of Sussex

iron was continued. It is perhaps on account of this tradition and its

effect upon the inhabitants that East Sussex has, as contrasted with

West, a livelier, and (in the impression of the West) a less pleasing

manner. Though it is farther from London in actual distance, it is

nearer London in feeling. The proximity of Kent, with its great

international highroad running through the heart of it, may have

something to do with this. So also has the early clearing of the forest,

and therefore the early establishment of free communication with the

Thames valley. This feature we have already touched on in the

development of Pevensey and Hastings Rapes. But whatever be the cause,

the effect is apparent to those who know the county. One very curious

result of it to-day is the difference in the modern settlement of East

Sussex and of West. The new-comers with their villas and their great

search for something old, that they may destroy it by their admiration,

have different chances in the two parts of the county. In the West they

can form, as it were, islands which stand alone in the midst of a highly

resisting environment. They will build you a Haywards Heath which is

like a London suburb, or a Ditchling or a Burgess Hill which is another

such line of new houses, or those towns on the sea coast of which we

have spoken, or the little group of red brick which defaces the

landscape of West Horsham, or the lump which is beginning to destroy

Barnham. But these encampments are tied close to the railway; they do

not seem to spread their influence over the landscape or to change the

character of the people in any way.

In East Sussex you get, on the contrary, whole belts of country into

which the spirit of the great towns has penetrated, perhaps for ever.

Thus there is such a belt in the line of Rotherfield, Mayfield, and

Heathfield. There is another stretch east and west from the height of

Heathfield to the valley of the Rother, and notably in a village

which we have already mentioned for its bad eminence in this

respect--Burwash--which is just such a place as the Londoner or the

Colonial calls “old world.” It is a village now only too conscious

[Illustration: COTTAGES AT MAYFIELD]

[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX PEASANT]

of such a character and ready to exploit it for all it is worth. You

have another example of this blight upon the top of Crowborough, which

might as well be Hazlemere or Hindhead for all the South country feeling

that is left to it.

The resistant quality of which we have just made mention, and which is

especially discoverable in the western part of the county, is perhaps

the most remarkable and, under modern circumstances, the most pleasing

of the characteristics of the people. To those who have not been brought

up in the county it becomes but slowly apparent. Those who know Sussex

and its people take a somewhat cynical delight in observing that power

at work. There is no peasant in the world so rooted in his customs and

so determined to maintain them as is the Sussex peasant. He has been

despoiled of his lands; he has been exploited by farmers from every

other county, who come to use his rich belts of loam; he has been

virtually bought or sold by families utterly out of the Sussex tradition

(the Wyndhams, for example), or what is worse, Colonials and random rich

men who make themselves great by the purchase of an ancient estate with

whose traditional history they have not the remotest sympathy. He is,

one would say, without defences against the modern world. But the

modern world, as it is represented by the chance rich men who are now

his masters, will very soon learn that the pressure of that proletariat

is too much for them and not they for it. A Sussex man will not plant

early. You may pay him to do so, and if you pay him enough he will do so

once or twice; but before you have your garden many years, you will find

he is planting again at his accustomed dates. He will not use silos. You

may prove to him in a thousand ways that he would be the richer for

using them. You may pay him as your servant such a wage that he may

begin using them, but his abhorrence of a new method of that sort will

express itself in the result, that you will lose a great deal of money

by your experiment. He will hatch no eggs in an incubator, he will keep

no bees in a new-fangled hive. He will give his pigs too much barley

meal if he can get it, and will remark when he has done so that pigs do

not really pay. He will bargain in his traditional fashion if you send

him to market, and you will not by any payment or pressure cause him to

express dissent in any other manner than by silence.

It will be of interest to watch the near future and to see if his

characteristics can be retained as

[Sidenote: SUSSEX PRONUNCIATION]

the county gets better and better known, and more thoroughly spoiled by

the advent of what is called the leisured class. So far those who have

been able to watch this peasant for the last thirty years have seen very

little change indeed. And even the noble and rich south country accent,

which education was to have destroyed, is as perfect in the little

children of the last few years as in the mouths of the oldest men. And

that peculiar emphasis upon the latter syllable--Amber_ley_,

Billings_hurst_, and the rest--has not disappeared, at least in the

western half of the county.

A test may be applied by those who care to watch the progress of social

disease and the resisting power of a social organism. Throughout the

county the termination “ham” is kept separate, as though by a hyphen,

from the first part of a place-name. For example: Bosham is pronounced

Boz-ham or Boss-ham. To be accurate, the sound is a little between “s”

and “z,” but the “ham” is kept quite distinct. Or again, the name of

Felpham, near Bognor (where William Blake indulged his eccentricities),

is pronounced Felp-ham. Now it is evident that in many cases where a “t”

or an “s” or a “p” comes before “h,” any one not acquainted with this

local method of pronouncing the words would run the two consonants

together, and would pronounce Bosham “Bo_sh_-am,” or Felpham

“Fel_f_-am.” Horsham has already broken down. Two generations ago

everybody called the town Hors-ham. It became a considerable railway

station. Many were led to read the name who had never heard of the

little county town until the railway was built. Its own inhabitants did

not defend the traditional pronunciation with sufficient vigour, and

Hor_sh_-’m it has now fallen to be in spite of the most vigorous efforts

of those who love their county to restore its original and significant

name, and in spite of the fact that a horse even in Horsham is not yet a

Horsh. If Bosham, Felpham, and the rest go in the same way, then one may

take it that Sussex will not be Sussex any more. The test is small, but

it is absolutely determining.

After the characteristic Sussex manner there should be considered the

characteristic Sussex landscape. This has been dealt with at some length

in various parts of the book when we were speaking of the Downs, the

Weald, and the coastal plain, and of particular towns. But we will here

consider it by itself as a mark of the county.

There are two elements in the landscape of Sussex, the first of which is

more permanent than any

[Sidenote: THE MAIN LANDSCAPE]

other similar character, perhaps, in England; the second of which is

more changeable than most. It is not easy to give a name to these

separate elements, but with the one are connected the emotions aroused

by the great views which Sussex presents, and with the other are

connected the emotions aroused by its hollow and secluded places, those

little isolated hills of sand and their small lonely valleys.

The great spaces of landscape which Sussex can afford have never changed

and never can. No man will ever build largely upon the Downs. No forest

will ever gather on so valuable a soil as that of the coastal plain. No

mere extension of buildings or further cultivation will destroy the

distant aspect of the Weald.

A man looking down from the crest of the Downs to the south and to the

north of him sees much of what his ancestry have seen since men first

stood upon those hills. The Weald was once a little denser in wood, the

coastal plain a little less thick with villages, but that is all. The

high, broad belt of the sea has always made a frame for that view. The

flooded river valleys have always picked it out with patches of silver.

The roll of the Downs has always stood, like a monstrous green wave,

blown forward before the south-west wind. The simple and vivid green of

the turf, and the sharp white chalk pits, have always stood making the

same contrast with the sky and the large sailing clouds; and they will

continue to do so for ever.

A Sussex man recognises his home when he sees it from the height above

Eden Bridge, or from Crowborough top as he enters the county from the

north or from the Surrey hills; he knows it when, as he gazes

southwards, he catches along the horizon the dark wall of the Downs. The

outline is not to be confounded with any other in the world, and these

few simple planes of vision build up for him the major pleasures which

the landscape of his county can afford. They have not changed in the

past and they will not change in the future.

With the homelands, with the little valleys and the sandy rocks of the

Weald, and the hills between the foot-hills of the southern side of the

Downs, the case is different.

What the original aspect of these hollows with their clayey or sandy

knolls on either side may have been in the beginnings of the county it

is now very difficult to conjecture. They are certainly among the very

first of its inhabited places, and it is perhaps most accurate to think

of them as little packed groups of huts along the

[Illustration: CROWBOROUGH HEATH]

[Sidenote: THE PINES]

stream which almost invariably flows beneath the small steep hillside,

these huts surrounded by the pasture of the small pastoral community,

and on the upland above by long stretches of open furze and fern. It is

probable that the wooding of the knolls came later, and it is remarkable

that there is very little ancient plough land in the neighbourhood of

most of these villages. Within the last few hundred years their general

aspect has completely changed through the introduction of the pine.

Along the whole belt of sand from Elsted right away to the valley of the

Ouse you get bunches of this tree, making a peculiar note in the

landscape; and the same is true of the forest ridge to the north.

It is not easy to determine at what date this foreign timber first

invaded the county. It is certainly not Roman, and almost certainly it

was not to be discovered in Sussex during the sixteenth century. The

Elizabethan cottage of the Weald has oak for its material, and this not

only on account of the strength of such wood, but obviously because it

was the cheapest and commonest kind of timber; for instance, the thin

lathes or strips to which the smallest tiles are affixed are of oak in

the old houses as much as are the tie beams and the main rafters. We

should hardly find this if the pine had been present in Sussex during

that great period of activity in domestic building; for the wood of the

pine was far easier to split and to work where great strength was not

required. It is thought by some that the tree came in, with all other

Scotch things, in the time of James I. But it must be repeated, the

point is undetermined. At any rate it has completely transformed the

details of the landscape between the Surrey border and the Downs. There

is, in the present day, no more peculiarly Sussex view than the sight of

the bare line of the Downs caught in a framework of firs. For instance,

such a fine sight as you get of them at Heyshott from the height that

was once Cobden’s land, or the wonderful bit close by between Selham and

Burton. It is from a hill isolated and covered with this kind of timber

near Hardham that the best view of the Arun valley may be obtained, and

so forth all along the line from which at various points one may regard

the range of the Downs.

A third and characteristic aspect of Sussex is, of course, that great

stretch of the coastal plain to which so much allusion has been made

that we need not emphasise it here: the sole impression of the county

which those retain who have known it from a residence at Goring, at

Lancing, at Findon, at

[Illustration: RYE, FROM CAMBER]

[Sidenote: MONOTONY OF THE COAST]

Arundel, at Slindon, at Eartham, or indeed at any of the villages built

upon the southern foot-hills of the Downs. It may be mentioned in

connection with this part of the county, that of all maritime districts

possessed of remarkable inland scenery Sussex is the least to be

remembered by those who have seen it from the sea. The Downs slope up so

gradually, the line of the coast is so flat, and the reek of the coastal

towns, though slight, so continuous, that the general impression a man

has who runs along even upon a clear day from Rye harbour, let us say,

to the Looe Stream inside the Owers, thus covering the whole stretch of

the county coast, is one of monotony. The Downs make no impression upon

the view to landwards, save at one place where, for ten miles or so from

Eastbourne to Newhaven, one runs along their seaward end and the high

cliffs of Beachy Head, Birling Gap, and Seaford.

For any one not fully acquainted with the county, and desirous of

thoroughly learning its character, the best plan is to take one of the

several routes which traverse it, and to make his journey slowly. The

county is so diversified, its changes of scenery are so rapid, and the

slight falls and rises of the Weald make each so considerable a

difference to the view, that quick travelling will never teach a man the

nature of Sussex. It is on this account that the millions who have gone

and come by the railway between London and the sea coast have not

retained so much as the knowledge that they have passed through the most

distinctive county in England. The same is undoubtedly true of the motor

car of to-day. What man travelling at fifteen to twenty miles an hour

recognises the moment when he crosses the county boundary, or picks out,

as he flashes by, the brickwork of a true Sussex gable?

There are but two ways of learning Sussex: on horseback and on foot; and

of these the first, for those who can afford it, is the best. As to the

line to be followed, those who have the leisure should certainly

traverse two--the one from north to south, the other from east to west.

And for the benefit of those who may be inclined to try the experiment,

there shall be detailed here the way in which such a journey may best be

undertaken.

It will be remembered that we have seen, with regard to the Weald, that

its original clearings with their isolated farmhouses were united by

random winding tracks--not true ways, such as

[Illustration: HARTFIELD]

[Sidenote: THE OLD FOREST TRACKS]

the old deep-cut British road under the Downs, still less properly

engineered or civilised roads, but mere forest paths rambling with but a

general direction, and linking up one steading with another.

Now it is a remarkable fact that the lines of these original tracks are

in great part preserved; in places they have been destroyed by the

plough, in others they have merged into the great highways of the

county, but much of them still remains in the form of secluded and

tortuous lanes which are sometimes partly metalled, sometimes flagged on

a packhorse path with Sussex marble, and sometimes left green. If a

traveller will take one of these where it enters the county and pursue

it to the Downs, he will get as true a conception of the way in which

the Weald has grown up, of its primeval woodland, and of the nature of

its clearings as it is possible to obtain. He will discover that to this

day very much of the curious loneliness of the Weald survives within a

mile or two of its most populous towns, and the impression of his two

days’ march (or one day if he is a great walker--the distance will

commonly be under twenty-five miles) will teach him more of the county

than any amount of bicycling along its main roads.

Perhaps the best example remaining of such an old track is that which

runs right for the Downs from the Surrey border where the road comes

from Dorking to Warnham. Its place-names here and there sufficiently

indicate the historic importance of the way. Thus its entry into the

county is the “shire mark”; its first farm “King’s Fold”--fold is a

characteristic ending of a Wealden name. Often before there were regular

farmhouses in a place there was a pen or boundary within which forest

cattle could be kept. Thus, Chiddingfold, Slinfold, Flitchfold,

Dunsfold, etc., in the forest on either side of the border.

Next on the road, an hour within the county, is Warnham, and in the

neighbouring hamlet of “Friday _Street_,” a termination which is

characteristic of village names along some ancient way; immediately

afterwards the road skirts Field Place, where Shelley the poet was born,

and becomes (a further characteristic of old tracks) a boundary--at

present a parliamentary boundary. It crosses the Arun at New Bridge or

Broad Bridge, and thence for many miles runs south, neglected and

silent, crossing the main ridge of the Weald and coming down upon the

“Greens,” Barn’s Green, where it throws off a little branch to the left,

which passes through Brook’s Green, Dragon’s Green, becomes

[Sidenote: AN OLD FOREST TRACK]

King’s Lane at Shipley, and thence goes on in a deserted green road

towards Chanctonbury.

Meanwhile from Barn’s Green the original track continues south and

somewhat west, becomes again a parliamentary boundary in the

neighbourhood of Coneyhurst Common, turns there once more into a

highroad, crosses the marshy upwaters of the Adur by a bridge which

recalls its twin to the north (Broad Ford Bridge), and makes straight

for the village of West Chiltington, one of those characteristic

villages which depend for their site upon the sandhills which rise so

suddenly from the clay beneath the Downs.

After this village it suddenly ceases to be a road, but continues in the

same line as a right of way to Roundabout (delightful name!), and thence

onward as a lane again to Storrington, which settlement was probably the

original goal of this very ancient forest road.

If any one will take such a walk in good weather he will thoroughly

understand what the history of the central part of Sussex has been.

Every name he finds and every building will enlighten him.

For an east and west line of travel two may be chosen, and both should

be undertaken if this highly differentiated countryside is to be fully

appreciated. The first needs but little description, it is a highroad

all the way, and holds the whole line of market towns spread out upon it

like beads upon a string; but it is characteristic of the Weald that

even this is not a road single in its intention, but is composed of

various old paths which have been patched together.

In taking this walk you will go from Petersfield to Midhurst, where are

two inns, The Angel and The Eagle; then from Midhurst through Cowdray

Park you follow the Petworth road, and at Petworth is an inn called The

Swan, remarkable for excellent mild ale. Then from Petworth you will go

through Fittleworth and Stopham, over Stopham Bridge to Pulborough; and

at this point the old marshes of the Arun, the line of heights from

Broomer’s Hill to Thakeham, and the marshes of the Adur beyond these

cause the road to double. Cowfold is your object, some ten miles away in

a straight line. You must either strike up through Billingshurst five

miles north, and then take the straight road from Billingshurst to

Cowfold, or else you must strike south to Storrington, and then take the

road through Washington, which branches to the left just after Wiston,

and so reaches Cowfold through Ashurst and Partridge Green. After

Cowfold

[Illustration: PULBOROUGH MARSH]

[Sidenote: WAY ALONG THE DOWNS]

it is a connected road again as it was up to Pulborough. You go eastward

through Cuckfield, through Hayward’s Heath, past the railway which you

cross close to Newick Station, straight on to Maresfield, down south to

Uckfield, then on by the main road to Heathfield. A mile eastward of the

railway there the road branches; but your better plan is to follow the

old line up which came the army of Jack Cade--that is, to skirt

Heathfield Park, to pass through Chapel Cross, go over Brightling Hill

which has wonderful command of the whole district, and so come down upon

the Rother at Robertsbridge. There you will find an inn called the

George, of considerable moment. East of this you are no longer in the

spirit of Sussex, but in that of Kent, and a very few minutes farther on

you are over the legal boundary between the two counties.

The second line is, of course, that of the Downs. It has the

disadvantage of ending abruptly at the sea, and does not show you the

whole length of the county as does the line through the Weald. But it

has the advantage that no other walk or ride anywhere is of the same

kind: fifty miles of turf, broken only by four short gaps in the river

valleys, lie before you between Harting Hill and Beachy Head. The

itinerary of such a ride is as follows:--

You will leave Petersfield by the eastern road, and turn by that lane on

the right which makes for the Downs, reaching their summit upon Harting

Hill. There is no proper track, but it is open going round the northern

edge of Beacon Hill and so onwards, always keeping to the escarpment,

and passing to the southern side of the summit of Linch Down. This

latter course has the advantage that it avoids going round deep combe or

crypt, and, moreover, on the southern side of the summit you strike that

ridgeway which will accompany you for many miles, and which here leads

you between the two woods in the open. About a mile to the east of the

summit of Linch Down you have to cross the somewhat low and steep pass

where the Midhurst and Chichester road crosses the hills. Your ridgeway

takes you straight across it over the top of Cocking Tunnel, and on up

again to the Down on the eastern side of the gap. There it is a clear

ride right away until you come above Lavington. At this point it is well

to strike to the right or south-west, making for a little chapel which

you will see below you in a sort of interior valley of the Downs. Here

you will find a highroad

[Sidenote: WAY ALONG THE DOWNS]

which is the highroad to Petworth; and if you continue it to a group of

cottages known as The Kennels, you may leave it again due eastward over

some ploughed land until you find in less than half a mile the

escarpment of the hills again.

The object of this somewhat complicated direction is to avoid the sharp

angle of the Downs at Duncton Hill, but if any one thinks the short cut

too difficult, he has but to follow round the escarpment, and he will

come by a rather longer route to the same point, which is that steep

combe above Sutton and Cold Harbour which those who live to the south of

it call, from the nearest farm, “Gumber Corner,” but which is also known

as Cold Harbour Hill. It is well to pause here and make it, as it were,

a centre of observation, for it is a spot from which the general

character of the county, the divisions into which it naturally falls,

and the special features which make up its landscape, may all be seized

in one view.

There is, perhaps, no other place in England where the landscape is so

full of history, and at the same time so diverse and so characteristic

of its own country-side.

To the south of you, some 600 feet below, is the whole stretch of the

sea-plain, and beyond it, up to the horizon, which is lifted right into

the sky, is the belt of the sea. On this, if it be near evening, you see

the regular flashing of the Owers Light, which marks that group of rocks

where once was a Roman town, and you note how the sea is eating up all

that shore. Stretching out towards the light in a sharp point is the

promontory of Selsea Bill--all that is left of the submerged land. Here

was founded the first bishopric of Sussex. And as your mind dwells upon

that foundation you catch, a little to the west and to the right, the

great spire of Chichester Cathedral standing up eight miles away under

the sunset--Chichester, to which was removed, and which is now the

successor of, St. Wilfrid’s original See.

The boundary here between the Sussex sea-plain and Hampshire is clearly

marked, for the level light sends a gleam along the creeks of the upper

harbours beyond Bosham, which undoubtedly were the first principal

divisions along this coast between the South Saxons and their neighbours

to the west.

As you look along that horizon eastward, you continue to see a chain of

Sussex things. You see the port of Littlehampton, one of the Sussex

river mouths; farther off, on the extreme limit of your view, you see

the lights of Worthing,

[Illustration: KING RICHARD’S WALK, CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL]

[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]

characteristic of the new great watering-towns which have grown up all

along this coast. You have in one landscape all that maritime fringe of

Sussex which is held in such detestation by the men of the Weald, and

which is yet the side from which civilisation or change has always come

into the county: the sea-plain upon which the Saxon pirates landed; the

plain upon which the siege of the Roman town of Anderida took place. It

was from this sea that Christianity came, and it was on the same flat,

though in the eastern part of it, that William of Falaise landed with

his army on the way to conquer at Hastings.

Between the high place from which you are thus looking southward and

surveying the land toward the sea--between the main range of the Downs,

that is, and the dead flat of the rich plough-land--you see, in one low

summit after the other, those foot-hills of the Downs which are an

essential part of the Sussex landscape, and which are so full of Sussex

history. Here stand in a row, partly isolated from each other,

Halnecker, with its gaunt deserted mill; Eartham, where Cowper for some

little time wrote, and where perhaps the best portrait of him was

painted. Next is the great wooded mass of the Nore Hill, now

uninhabited and silent, but once a stronghold; the neighbouring summit

of Slindon, which was Canterbury land, one of the great houses of the

Archbishop; the promontory of the Rewell Wood, which hides Arundel; and

farther off eastward that semi-conical lift of Cissbury, which the men

of the place call High Down. Here first the Briton, then the Roman, then

the Saxon held their trenches, and here has been found that most

fascinating and absorbing relic of prehistory--a manufactory of flint

implements, finished and half-finished, with the cores and the chips

lying beside the completed work.

This is what you see to the southward. Directly to the east and the west

of you is the wall of the Downs, on the crest of which you stand.

Nowhere else on the crest of that wall will you see them look so long or

so sheer. You see them fall mile after mile on to the plain, some

jutting slightly forward, as does Ditchling Beacon, upon the limit of

one’s gaze, and the whole forming one strict escarpment, the like of

which is not to be discovered to our knowledge elsewhere in the world.

From this point you perceive and are filled with the utter loneliness of

these hills; there is not a house on them nor a man, and they are the

more

[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]

lonely that you have so immediately, and yet so far, below you the

little farmhouses in their combes.

These combes, their names and their great hollows, recall to you the

enormous antiquity upon which Sussex reposes. Their name is a Celtic

name. It has outlasted the three great foreign invasions of the

land--the Roman civilisers, the German pirate, and the re-entry of the

Latins with the Norman Conquest. Their woods also have outlasted every

destroyer, every cultivator, and engineer. No one can plough these steep

hollows--the beeches have clung to them from the beginning and will

cling to them always. Immediately beneath you is one such horseshoe,

bitten into the mass of the Down; and if you stand still you can hear

moving in it the life of beasts which men have never seriously

disturbed. Small as these woods are, they are as primal and as isolated

as anything you will find in any distant valley. They are not cut for

profit, or at least very rarely, because the ground is too steep for

haulage. They live their own life and are secluded.

Indeed, all over the broad back of the Downs, for seventy miles and

more, these patches of woods, both in the combes and up on the shoulders

of the hills, are a necessary part of Sussex. They exhibit the

unconquerable nature of the county, its strongholds of silence and of

desertion within an hour or two of London, and within a short walk of

those flaring new places which have sprung up upon the sea-shore. The

past and the very meaning of the county can still be remembered in the

names of those woods. Here are certain of the “forests” remaining. Right

at your feet is Houghton Forest, the remnant of a great royal wood lost

to the Crown perhaps in the civil wars.

This view along the Downs tells you many other things about the county:

you have, for instance, close beside you, not three miles away, perhaps

the earliest and until latterly one of the most used of the “Passes”

over the Downs--the cross-roads at Whiteways. The London road and the

road which had followed along under the Downs from Lewes unite at the

summit of the Saddle, and lead travellers from the capital or from the

Weald to Arundel or to the sea-plain. It is an example of those passages

over the hills which have been mentioned as running from Cocking near

Midhurst right away to Lewes, and which have their best roads at

Duncton, here at Whiteways, at Washington, and beyond New Timber at

Clayton.

[Illustration: OLD WHITING MILL, MIDHURST]

[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]

Those river valleys which we have seen to be so peculiar to the

modelling of the South country--trenches cut right through the chalk and

appearing to ignore the natural watershed which the hills would

form--come also into this landscape. The greatest of them is right

before you in the Arun valley. If it is winter you will see in the

sheets of water surrounding the river why these valleys were not used

for communication, and why to this day, though the railway has built

itself an embankment across the marshes, no road runs through along the

level floor, which would seem at first sight the obvious gate through

the Downs from the Weald to the sea.

You can also see from this point of vantage one of those castles which

guard the gates of the county, for you can see to the north of the gap

the ruins of Amberley. In a word, you have the whole nature of the Downs

and of the sea-plain before you as you look from Gumber.

But you have also much more. Turn to the northward, and there lies

before you the whole stretch of the Weald: its towns, its little sandy

pine-clad heights, its irregular plan, the large remains of its old

woods and heaths. Far beyond it you may see, like another wall answering

the southern wall of the Downs, the line of the Surrey hills; and all

Sussex which is not maritime lies between you and them in one sweep.

You have to the north-westward the great bunch of Hindhead, where the

three counties of Hampshire, Sussex, and Surrey meet; you have to the

eastward an interminable succession of low heights, one behind the

other, which stretch out to the Kentish border and make up the Sussex

Weald. You may see, at the farthest point which the eye can reach, the

lonely fir-trees upon Ashdown, which stands so high as to hide the

Kentish “hursts” behind it.

One of those small towns of the Weald which are most characteristic of

Sussex is beneath you, the little town of Petworth, with its great house

insolently overshadowing it and swallowing it up. There is also beneath

you something more Sussex and more dignified than the blatant grandeur

of such a palace--the squires’ houses all the way along from Burton to

Parham. You are too far to see how well they illustrate the

county,--Parham especially, which is built of chalk, and is altogether a

sort of natural growth of Sussex,--but you may easily grasp in their

continuous line what sort of house it was round which the old manors

clung.

[Illustration: MILL POOL, MIDHURST]

[Sidenote: VIEW FROM GUMBER]

From Gumber also you judge how far it may be true that the Weald was

ever uninhabited. You see indeed great patches of woodland, and many

more patches of what may have been recent, but what are most likely

ancient, clearings. You see belts of heath on which nothing has ever

grown or will grow, and you see everywhere villages which are certainly

of great age, because they lie along the main lines of communication.

Speaking of these, it is worthy of notice that you have next to you, as

you stand here on Gumber, that most distinct and the best-preserved

Roman road in England. The Stane Street crosses this saddle of the

range; it is raised several feet above the surface of the hills. It is

like a rampart, and comes straight from the spire of Chichester on the

south-western horizon. Here are visible all the points of the Stane

Street which have been detailed upon a former page, the way in which it

negotiates the escarpment of the Downs in a great curve, and the way in

which, when once it has struck the plain, it darts right for the

crossing of the Arun at Pulborough. Hence also may be caught that gap in

the Surrey hills at Dorking for which the road makes northward, and

beyond which it is lost in the turf at Epsom.

As you trace that taut line across the Weald you may note every period

of the Sussex past. You see it crossing at Bignor the winding elbowed

British lane which has sunk so deep through centuries of traffic below

the surrounding fields, you see the famous ruins of the Roman villa, and

the ruin of the Priory of Hardham, which stood upon its highway.

The watershed which divides the Sussex from the Surrey rivers stands up

in the midst of the Weald before you plainly enough, though it is lower

than the ridge of the Downs to the north or the south. There is to be

distinguished very clearly to the north-east that part of it called St.

Leonard’s Forest from which flows the Arun to the south and the Mole to

the north: the Sussex river of Arundel, and the Surrey river of Dorking.

All those things, then, which are especial to the county, and which we

have remarked elsewhere to be the distinguishing marks of Sussex, stand

out in this view from Gumber: the historic sites, the forests, the

escarpment of the Downs, their foot-hills; the encroachments of the sea;

the ancient and the modern parts which the sea-line plays in Sussex

history; the small old ports which have so much, and the great modern

pleasure towns which

[Sidenote: WESTBURTON HILL]

have so little, to do with the life of Sussex men; the river crossing

the chalk hills; the oaks, the pines, and the heaths of the Weald; the

Roman foundations of our state; the great Roman road and the Roman

villa; the squires’ houses, its successors; the little towns; the

marshes of the gaps through the hills; the roads over the passes,--all

these are combined in such a view, and if a man has but very little time

in which to comprehend the nature of Sussex he cannot do better than to

leave the Chichester road for awhile, either at the top of Duncton hill,

or half a mile farther at The Kennels, and walk up to Gumber corner to

see the sight which has been here described.

Next after the Saddle, from which is seen this great view, the traveller

will go on eastward along the ridge, down the somewhat steep side of

Bignor Hill, and he will find on the other side of the cleft, which here

separates Bignor from Westburton Hill, the first of those dew pans of

which we spoke in our first description of the county. From just beside

it there is a straight green track leading just south of the crest of

the hills, and just north of the line of Houghton Forest, and falling at

last into the highroad from London to Arundel, just before the

cross-road of Whiteways, where is the lodge of Arundel Park. Here he

has the choice of two routes: he may go through Arundel Park down on to

the town of Arundel some two or three miles away, or he may go straight

down Houghton Hill and so across the bridge at Amberley. It is this

latter course which he had better take if his object is an exploration

of the Downs.

Going down Houghton Hill he will note the old road running steeply down

the side of the Downs and the new one curving more gently to the south.

They reunite at the entrance of Houghton village, just where the old

inn, the George and Dragon, stands. A hundred yards farther there comes

in that ancient track which links up all the prehistoric village sites

under the Downs, and for which there is no name.

It is interesting, as one leaves Houghton village, to notice how the

road (which is now identical with the old British track) approaches the

marshy land of the river, following the spur of dry land which pushes

out into the marshes, and making for the nearest similar spur on the

farther side of the stream. All old British ways approach a river in

this fashion, as, for instance, the track to which we owe London Bridge,

the crossing of the Medway near Lower Halling, of the Mole just north

of

[Sidenote: RACKHAM HILL]

Dorking, and of the Darent at Oxford. The last few yards of the road

where the marshy land begins are carried on the modern causeway; the

Arun itself is crossed by a fine bridge, on the farther side of which is

an inn which makes a very good stopping-place, whether a man has ridden

or has walked, for, by the time he reaches this inn, he will have gone

between fifteen and twenty miles. Moreover, it is always wise, when one

is exploring the Downs, to rest in the river valleys which cut them

rather than to come down off their main summits on to the plain, for to

do this last is to waste much effort in the climb of next morning.

Half a mile after leaving Houghton Bridge inn the traveller will find a

lane leading straight up to the top of the Downs, a summit here called

Rackham Hill; and thenceforward he has before him a ridgeway of five

miles of unbroken turf of the finest sort in England, midway along which

he should note upon the steep escarpment beneath him (along the northern

side of what is called Kithurst Hill) the great embankment which may

perhaps be defensive earthworks, or may perhaps be some religious emblem

of the prehistoric ancestors of the county.

At the end of the five miles he comes down upon what is known as

Washington Gap, where the Worthing road crosses the hills, and as he

does so he leaves upon his right Highden, the original home of the

Gorings, and the centre from which has spread the influence of that

Sussex family. The gap is low, but a little over 300 feet, and when he

has crossed it he must go up nearly 500 more to the height of

Chanctonbury Ring, which is the knot or pivot, as it were, upon which

the whole system of the range turns. Though it is not exactly central

between the Hampshire borders and the sea end of the Downs, being a good

deal to the west of such a centre, it is a place of observation from

which the range may be discovered stretching to the left and right

through the whole of its extent. Ditchling Beacon to the east and

Duncton Down to the west are twenty or thirty feet higher, but neither

is so conspicuous as the Ring. Here also, immediately to the east and

just below the clump of trees, is the largest dew pan on the Downs.

It is possible to go down from Chanctonbury straight to Steyning, but,

if one desires to see all one can of the hills, it is better to keep

upon them until one sees below one a spur pointing towards Bramber;

there is a lane down this spur, and at

[Sidenote: THE DEVIL’S DYKE]

Bramber another excellent inn called the Castle Inn. Here the second

river valley of the Downs is crossed: the valley of the Adur. From the

Arun to the Adur is a very short day, yet it is good policy to rest

here, as there is no other break in the hills between this valley and

that of the Ouse at Lewes, which is almost as long a journey as that of

the first day.

After Bramber the line of the range becomes somewhat confused, and does

not follow that strict and unbending direction which has hitherto marked

it. There is a projection northward in Wolstonbury Hill, and fairly deep

depressions between the principal heights. The course to be followed is

further complicated by the near presence of Brighton, which has thrown

out a railway almost up to the top of the range, and has brought the

influences of a town to the deep combe known as Devil’s Dyke.

This unfortunate spot cannot be avoided save on foot, for, on horseback,

the escarpment to the north is too steep to be followed; it is therefore

best to take it boldly, unpleasant as it is, to go well south of the

Dyke and make for the hamlet of Saddlescombe, the first passage of the

Downs after Bramber. Thence the traveller will go due north-east over

the shoulder of New Timber Hill, in the valley beyond he will cross the

two Brighton roads (that from Crawley and that from Cuckfield) just

before they join, he will leave Wolstonbury Hill wholly on his left and

will make for the summits of the Downs before him, going due eastward

from the highroad when he has crossed it.

When he has once reached these summits beyond the road he has another

straight run of seven miles of splendid turf and of glorious views along

a lonely and unwooded ridge, past Ditchling Beacon, and catching beneath

him as he goes, at the foot of the hills, the last miles of the old

British track which here links up Westmeston, Plumpton, and Offham.

When he comes at last to the fall of the hills down upon the Ouse

valley, he will see before him the town of Lewes and its castle, and as

he goes down towards it he will note the race-course upon his right,

which stands upon the site of the great battle of 1264, wherein the

Barons defeated the King and laid the foundations of Parliament. Lewes,

when he reaches it, should form his third resting-place, lying as it

does upon the third of the rivers which cut the Downs.

Upon the fourth day the way lies along the main Eastbourne road for the

first two or three

[Illustration: BEACHY HEAD]

[Sidenote: BEACHY HEAD]

miles, until Beddingham is reached. There one turns to the right just by

the church, and after half a mile of going one finds a lane leading

straight up on to the Downs; a ridgeway takes one along the crest (the

height of which is here called Firle Beacon), and in about five miles

one comes down upon the valley of the Cuckmere and the very old village

of Alfriston.

For the last few miles of the journey there is a choice of ways: one may

turn to the right after Alfriston bridge and, going past Lullington

Court, take a lane which leads one straight to the village of Jevington,

thus cutting off the projecting corner and height of Winddower Hill, or

one may turn to the left after the bridge and go round over the top of

the ridge, and so down on to Jevington from the north. From Jevington a

short lane leads straight up on to the height of Willingdon Hill, and

thence it is a straight southerly line along the escarpment with a few

slight rises and falls until, just four miles on, one stands above the

precipice of Beachy Head where the Downs fall into the sea, and one’s

journey is ended. These four days, if they are spent in weather of

passible clearness, teach one the whole of that lonely and wonderful

belt of England, the landscape and character of which have built up the

county on either side to the north and south of hills.

It would, of course, be possible to devise many another journey by which

those who do not know the county might better appreciate somewhat of its

aspects. But these three of which we have spoken are the best in general

for an exploration of Sussex, unless one pleases to add a fourth of a

somewhat monotonous and truncated character, which would be to cover in

one day the coastal plain from Chichester to Brighton, and in another

the sea coast and the marshes from Eastbourne to Rye. The second section

of this is straightforward enough, taking one through Pevensey,

Hastings, and Winchelsea. As to the first, it is advisable not to follow

the main road through Arundel, but to go by lanes nearer the sea from

Chichester to Eastergate, thence to Yapton, and so on through

Littlehampton, West Ferring, Worthing, and along the sea coast to New

Shoreham. It is possible also to take either section right along its

beach. There is no interruption, but it would be a dreary and a

heart-breaking thing to do, and would leave upon a man a general

impression of red brick and boarding-houses, and esplanades and tin

bungalows, interrupted by intervals of tufted grass growing

[Illustration: WILLINGDON]

[Sidenote: THE SUSSEX SEA]

rank upon deserted sand-hills. Nay, even these are not all deserted, for

in places Londoners can be seen upon them playing golf.

It is best to wander inland, to pass every night at some one of the

small market towns, and, when one has returned from the county, to be

able to remember the many unbroken woods, the isolated clearings, the

primeval tracks, now metalled and now green, the little patches of

swamp, the clay pools and the short oaks of the Weald, the abrupt

sandstone ledges crowded with pine, the bare Downs beyond seen between

such trees, and the large levels of the four rivers which, between them,

make up the county, and explain the history of its soil and of its

families, and the peculiar tenacity with which it maintains under all

modern vicissitudes its unique and enduring character.

It may not be without utility to close these pages with a few remarks

upon the last way in which the county can be explored in the course of a

holiday. We will consider the approach from the sea and learn something

of the way in which a small boat should regard the harbours of this

coast; of how the rivers are to be ascended, and of the particular

difficulties at the mouth of each.

Those of our readers who have the opportunity to explore the county in

this way from the coast and the Channel may not be numerous, but they

can at least boast that their method of travel can give them the best

appreciation of its history, for Sussex grew up from the harbours.

We have already remarked that the Sussex harbours come at fairly regular

intervals, especially those between Beachy Head and the Isle of Wight,

but they are not by any means equally easy of access, even for a small

boat drawing, let us say, six feet of water; and the most difficult of

all five is Rye, at the mouth of the Rother.

It is an almost universal rule that old harbours from which the sea has

retreated, but to which the waterway still exists, are difficult of

access, and Rye is no exception to this rule. There extends for more

than a mile from the shore a mass of peaty mud through which the sea-bed

of the river winds in a most tortuous fashion; at half-tide it is almost

impossible to follow it if one has had no local experience. The matter

is made worse from the fact that the channel is very poorly marked; its

first entrance from the sea is impossible to discover in thick weather

and not too easy upon a clear day. All this is a pity, for if Rye were

still as accessible

[Illustration: BOAT-BUILDING AT RYE]

[Sidenote: HASTINGS BAY]

as is say Arundel, or even Bosham, it would form the most charming of

all entries into the county, with its pyramid of old red roofs and its

deep and visible history.

From Rye all the way across the bay to Beachy Head there is no haven,

nor for the matter of that any difficulty for a small craft, save that

the shore is very flat between Hastings and Eastbourne, and that, as

one’s course takes one well out, it is not easy to fix landmarks. In

good weather, of course, Beachy Head is a most prominent object all the

way, and the light below it a perfect mark at night, but a very little

haze is enough to make a yachtsman who is following alongshore get a

mile or two in or out, especially as a strong tideway runs in between

Pevensey Bay and the Royal Sovereign shoals. Rounding Beachy Head itself

is easy enough work except when a strong northerly wind is blowing. On

these occasions the Head, which is very abrupt, and the cliffs to the

west of it, have a way of spilling sharp gusts unexpectedly down on to

the water beneath. The present writer has seen a five-tonner under three

reefs and a storm jib all but swamped within half a mile of the shore by

one of these puffs, which are especially dangerous from the fact that

there is no telling quite in what direction they will come. A full

north-easterly wind on the starboard quarter as one rounds the head can

give one a set-back in the shape of an unexpected gust coming round from

right ahead out of Birling Gap. The only rule when the wind is blowing

strong off-shore is to keep well out--irritating as it is to have to do

so when one is making Newhaven, since every tack towards the outside

means another mile to be beaten inwards against the weather.

Some years ago it would have been necessary to warn the reader of a

small reef which runs out from Beachy Head and is especially dangerous

at high water, but a new lighthouse is now fixed upon this reef and the

old danger no longer exists.

Newhaven Harbour, as we have seen upon a previous page, is the most

serious commercial harbour upon the coast. It is the only one before

which there is not some considerable bar, and it goes without saying

that small boats, such as we are supposing, can enter freely at any

state of the tide; but it is by no means the easiest of the Sussex

rivers for a small boat to _lie_ in. It has a heavy traffic both of

trade and passengers, conveyed in large steamers along a rather narrow

river, and until a dock for large craft has been constructed it

[Illustration: OLD SHOREHAM BRIDGE]

[Sidenote: SHOREHAM HARBOUR]

will always be a rather anxious place to get in and out of, especially

as there is a very strong tide in the Ouse. A dozen miles or so farther

westward along the coast is the modern entrance of Shoreham Harbour.

This harbour has a rather awkward bar, and it is not infrequently

necessary to wait for the tide; moreover the tideway runs like a stream

right athwart the mouth, and therefore tends to make one run dangerously

near the pier-heads if the wind is light, but, once this bar is crossed

and the piers past, Shoreham still affords very good moorings for a

small boat, and it also is well situated for proceeding in any direction

inland; but one must be careful to take the right-hand or eastern branch

of the harbour, and not to go up the river on the left-hand side, as the

former is deep, secure, and well-wharfed, while the latter has steep,

shingly banks, and soon becomes extremely shallow.

At much the same distance from Shoreham that Shoreham is from Newhaven

will be found the harbour of Littlehampton, which is in some ways the

best of all as a centre or goal for small craft. Its great drawback is

its bar, which is the worst in the whole county, worse even than that of

the Rother. In spite of continual dredging this bar is perpetually

appearing above the surface at low spring tides, and it is hopeless to

attempt to enter at any draught of water before half-tide. The bar is,

however, quite close to the end of the pier; there is good holding

ground for anchor, and signals of showing from the pier-head

signal-staff clearly indicate the depth over the bar at any moment. The

heavy gales from the south-west, which are the only dangerous ones on

those parts of the coast (with the exception of some very rare

south-easterly gales), are broken for Littlehampton by the Owers Bank,

and to some extent by the group of rocks which run eastward from them,

and there are very few days when it is not safe to anchor outside and

wait for the tide.

Once inside, the Arun will be found the most practicable and the most

delightful of Sussex rivers for the sailor. There is depth for seagoing

vessels all the way up to Arundel, the approach to which is perhaps the

most striking approach to a port to be found in England. Half-way on

this journey is a rolling railway bridge, but there is no other

obstruction and plenty of water all the way. At Arundel is the first

permanent bridge, but a small boat, or a boat with a lowering mast, can

go on much farther up the river. The tide will carry one, when there

is

[Illustration: THE ARUN, NEAR PULBOROUGH]

[Sidenote: THE ARUN]

no backwater or flood, as high as Pulborough in the heart of the county.

Formerly all the Sussex rivers gave this opportunity for entering from

the sea into the centre of the countryside, to which was doubtless due

the only too thorough results of the pirate raids in the early part of

our history. Thus a Danish ship has been found right up the Rother on

the Kentish border near Northiam, at a place where the river is now no

more than a brook. Similarly it was easy to sail up the Ouse far beyond

Lewes. As we have previously remarked, the Adur was a navigable river

till recent times almost as far as Shipley. At present the Arun alone of

these waterways remains. It owes its preservation to the fact that the

care of man has never been allowed to lapse upon its banks. Its high

dykes (still called by the Norman-French name of “rives”) have always

been carefully maintained, and where the old river was silting up (as

for instance in the great bend by Burpham) new cuts have preserved the

scouring of the channel. We must, however, regret that in this direction

the canal system by which the Arun was linked up with the rest of

England has been deliberately allowed to go to pieces. There used to be

a waterway from Ford to Chichester, which made the most delightful of

inland excursions, and of which Turner has painted a famous picture. It

is now nothing but a dry ditch. Higher up near Hardham another waterway

led across the great bend of the river to Stopham and continued, as a

canal parallel to the stream, across the Weald until the upper waters of

the Wey were reached, and through them the Thames valley. It was

therefore quite easy until the destruction of the canal to go by water

from the Sussex coast to Weybridge. It is typical of our modern politics

that a national advantage of this sort should have been thrown away by

Parliament in its subservience to the railway interest, and it is to be

hoped that that advantage will soon be regained. The trench is still

there and the emplacement of the old locks, and the sum required to put

the canal into use again would certainly be recovered in a few years of

pleasure traffic alone.

The last of the harbours we have to consider is that ramification of

creeks on the extreme west of the county known collectively as

“Chichester Harbour.” Here also there is a very bad bar and a

complicated entrance. From Littlehampton a small boat should make for

the point of Selsea Bill and so creep through Looe stream. But she

[Illustration: BOSHAM]

[Sidenote: CHICHESTER HARBOUR]

must take care to do this on an ebb-tide, for it is impossible to get

through against the flood.

Even for quite small vessels the entry of Chichester Harbour is

navigable only at high tide, but the exploration of it is delightful,

whether one runs up Fishbourne Creek (which lands one near to

Chichester) or, leaving this on the right, one goes straight on to the

wharf of Bosham. There is, unfortunately, no river running from these

creeks up into the county, but they form an excellent and sheltered

mooring from which to start upon sails into the Solent just to hand.

This method of learning the county, the entry from the sea, is the most

natural, the most historic, and the most germane to the nature of

Sussex. Every port one enters is the port of Rape, every river up which

one’s dinghy takes one is the river along which the penetration of the

county has proceeded in past times, and one upon which its principal

market-towns will be found. So Chichester, Arundel, Steyning, Lewes, can

be reached, and with more difficulty towns farther up the country. The

whole manner in which Sussex has grown up is impressed upon the man who

enters it from the Channel.

Unfortunately it is the least familiar and perhaps least easy of all

the ways in which the county may be approached, but those who care to

try the experiment will find themselves well repaid for the exertion the

method involves, especially as they explore one of those valleys which

lead through the Downs and reveal section by section, as one goes up

stream, every distinctive portion and contrast of the countryside, until

the heart of the Weald is reached, and the traveller can see from his

boat, as the pirate of the fifth century saw from a wider and more

marshy stream, the long, straight escarpment of the hills closing the

horizon and defining the land to which he was to give his language and

his tribal name.

INDEX

Adur, River, 39, 40

Aella, legend of, 60

Alfordean Bridge, on Stane Street, 58

Amberley, antiquity of, 111

goes back to eighth century, 105

on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

position on Arun, 36, 37

Amberley Castle, 110

Anderida, legend of fall of, 60-61

upon site of Pevensey, 53

Angerming, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Arun, maritime portion of, 38

Arun River, 35, 36

its advantages for sailing and boating, 186-188

Arundel, absence of Roman relics in, 53

early fortification of, 66

original site of bridge of, 109

Rape of. _See_ Rape of Arundel river valley of, 37

town of, probable great antiquity of, 107-109

Arundel Castle, new cut-flint work in, 32

view from river, 37, 38

Ashburnham, family of, 126

Ashington, family of, 14

Bar, absence of, at mouth of Ouse, 41

Bar, at mouth of Adur, 39

Barlavington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Barnham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Bartelotts of Stopham, 127

Battle, Monastery of, 119

position of, 44

Battle of Hastings, 71-74

Beach, value of to early navigators, 4

Beachy Head, 179

difficulties of sailing under, 183, 184

Beeding, mentioned in Alfred’s will, 101

“Belts” for principal longitudinal divisions of Sussex, 10, 11

Bexhill, mentioned in Doomsday, 92

Bignor, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Roman pavement of, on Stane Street, 55

Billingshurst, 113

on Stane Street, 58

Binsted, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Bishopric, first Sussex, founded, 64

Blunt, family of, 127, 133, 134 191

Bosham, mentioned in Doomsday, 116

Boundaries of Sussex, east and west, 5

Boundary, northern, of Sussex, nature of, 8

Boxgrove, Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, 118

on Stane Street, 55

Bramber, a parliamentary borough, 101

Bramber Castle, 99-100

continuity of possession of, 100

example of flint building, 31

early fortification of, 66

on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Braose, first overlord of Rape of Bramber, 99

Brighton, importance of in Rape of Lewes, 83

modern development of, 137, 138

British Road under Downs, 15

Buckman’s Farm, on Stane Street, 58

Burford Bridge, on Stane Street, 54

Burpham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

on Arun, 37

Burrell, first Member for Rape of Bramber, 103, 104

Burton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

Bury, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Buttolphs, mentioned in Doomsday, 101

position on Adur, 39

Buxted, late development of, 91

Canals from Arun, disused, 187, 188

Castle Arundel, new cut-flint work in, 32

at Arundel, 37, 38

Bramber, example of flint building, 31

Castles, secondary, of Sussex, 98, 99

Chanctonbury Ring, 24, 176

Chichester Harbour, difficulty of entry for small craft, 188, 189

marsh bounding Sussex to west, 5

Chichester, principal town of coastal plain, 11

site of capital of the Regni, 48

Christian religion destroyed by invasions, 62, 63

Climping, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Coastal Plain, 11, 12

character of landscape of, 154, 155

track of journey along, 180

Coast, Sussex, cruising along, 181-190

Cobden’s Farm, upon belt of loam under the Downs, 14

Cocking, mentioned in Doomsday, 116

Cold Harbour on Stane Street, 55

Combe, parish of, position on Adur, 39

Coombes, mentioned in Doomsday, 101

Counties, English, their characteristics, 1, 2

Crowborough, disfigurement of, 147

Crowhurst, mentioned in Doomsday, 92

Cuckfield, date of origin of, 84

Manor of, history of, 128

Cuckmere River, 41

Dawtreys of Petworth, 126

De Albinis, successors to Montgomerys, 106

Devil’s Dyke, 177

Dew pans on Downs, 25

Doomsday, survey of Lewes Rape, 81-84

Dorking Churchyard, on Stane Street, 54

Downs, difficulty of building on, 21

earthworks on, 26, 27

roads across, fewness of, 34

system of dew pans, 25

uninhabited, 19

villages to south of, 29

villages under escarpment of, 28

woods of, 22, 23

South, backbone of Sussex, 2

contour of, 9

direction of axis of, 10

nature of, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

_see also_ South Downs

Duncton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Eartham, Manor of, history of, 129

Earthworks on Downs, 26, 27

Eastbourne, 141

Eastergate, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Ecclesiastical power in Rape of Chichester, 115, 116

Edward the Confessor, importance of reign of, 68

Egdean, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

English counties, their characteristics, 1, 2

Felpham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Feudalism, strength of, in Sussex, 78

Firle Beacon, 179

Fittleworth, its position on Western Rother, 36

Fitz Alans, successors to the de Albinis, 106

Five Oaks Green, on Stane Street, 58

Flint, method of building with, 30, 31, 32

Forest Ridge, 8, 11, 12

Fortification, primitive, example of at Kithurst Hill, 175

Frant, 90

Fulcking, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Gainsford, family of, 126

Godwin, a Sussex man, 68

his estates in Sussex, 69

Goring, family of, 126

Goring, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Graffham, mentioned in Doomsday, 116

example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

Manor and history of, 129

Gumber Corner, view from, 163-173

Hailsham, mentioned in Doomsday, 91

Halnecker Hill, on Stane Street, 55

Harbours, nature of Sussex, 3

Hardham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, 118

Roman camp at, on Stane St., 56

Hasting, the pirate, his raid, 66, 93

Hastings, Battle of, 71-74

Castle of, 93-97

example of value of a beach, 4

importance of beach to early shipping, 93-95

name of, 93

origins of, 93-97

Rape of. _See_ Rape of Hastings

Hastings Bay, method of crossing, 183

“Hastings Plain,” site of Battle of Hastings, 71

Hayward’s Heath, 13

Henfield, mentioned in Doomsday, 101

Heyshott, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

mentioned as Percy Land, 117

Highden, original home of the Gorings, 176

Horsham, pronunciation of name of, 150

rises in thirteenth century, 101, 102

Houghton, crossing of Arun at, 111, 112

Houghton Forest, 113

Howards, successors to Albinis, 106

successors to Mowbrays, 100, 101

Hurstpierpoint, survey of Rape of Lewes, 83

Invasion, Saxon, of Sussex, 60-64

Iron industry, importance of to Rape of Pevensey, 90

Iron industry of Weald, antiquity of, 59

Juniper Hall, on Stane Street, 54

Keymer, survey of Rape of Lewes, 83

Kithurst Hill, 175

Knepp Castle, 104

Lancing, mentioned in Doomsday, 101

Landscapes of Sussex, 150-155

Lavington, example of sand formation in the Weald, 14

on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Lewes, early fortification of, 66

importance of in Saxon times, 67

Norman Castle in, 81

position of on Ouse, 41

Rape of (_see also_ Rape of Lewes), 79-85

site of Battle of, 178

town, characteristics of, 80

Linch Down, 162

Littlehampton, at mouth of Arun, 38

difficulty of entry, and outside anchorage described, 185, 186

Loam, belt of, villages upon, 14

Looe Stream, 65

Madehurst, Manor of, history of, 129

Marshes bounding Sussex to east and west, 5

destruction of Roman roads in, 6

Mayfield, first of Sussex line of ecclesiastical palaces, 90

Midhurst, its position on Western Rother, 36

late development of, 117

Monasteries of Sussex, 117-119

Montgomerys, first overlords of Rape of Arundel, 106

Morton, first overlord of Rape of Pevensey, 87

Mount Caburn, example of prehistoric fortification, 91

Mowbrays, successors to Braose, 100

Nature of Sussex Harbours, 3

Newhaven Harbour, advantages and disadvantages of, for small craft, 184

Newhaven, position at mouth of Ouse, 41

Newtimber, Manor of, history of, 131

Norman Conquest in Sussex, 69-74

Northchapel, 113

Northern boundary of Sussex, nature of, 8

Northstoke on Arun, 37

Ockley (in Surrey), on Stane Street, 54

Ouse, river, 40, 41

Owers Lightship, 65

Oxenbridge, family of, 126

Palmers of Angerming, 126

Parham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Peasantry of Sussex, character of, 144, 148

Petworth, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Pevensey, ancient geographical position of, 89

Celtic derivation of the name, 87

decline of, 89, 90

Level, termination of the Wealdon flats on the sea, 11

Rape of, _see_ Rape of Pevensey

Roman remains in, 88

site of Anderida, 53

William the Conqueror lands there, 71

Pine trees, comparatively recent in Sussex, 153-154

Place names, Sussex, 61

of Sussex, pronunciation of, 149, 150

Plain, Coastal, _see_ Coastal

Poynings, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Prehistory of Sussex unknown, 47

Pulborough, its position on Arun, 36

mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Pulborough Bridge, point where Stane Street crossed the Arun, 57

Rackham Hill, 175

Rape of Arundel, 104-113

Arundel, Montgomerys first overlords of, 106

Bramber, 99-104

Rape of Bramber, Braose first overlord of, 99

Chichester, 113-117

Hastings, 91-99

Lewes, growth of, 79-85

its central character, 85

original harbour of, 82

Lewes, William of Warren first overlord of, 82

Pevensey, 87-91

Pevensey, importance of iron industry, 90

Pevensey, Morton first overlord of, 87

Pevensey, shape of, 86

Rapes, divisions of Sussex, 77

number and origin of, 78

Regni, Sussex tribe, 48

Ridge, forest, 8

Rings of woods on Downs, 24

Rivers of Sussex, 3, 35-44

give rise to earliest settlements, 4

River valley, nature of Sussex, 42

River valleys of Sussex, not used by main roads, 21, 22

Robertsbridge, 91

Monastery of, 118

position of, on Rother, 44

Roman basis of Sussex civilisation, 48-59

camp at Hardham, on Stane Street, 56

fortifications at Alfordean Bridge, 58

Road, Stane Street, crossing Arun, 36

Road, Stane Street, fully described, 54-58

Roads destroyed in marshes, 6

Roman’s Wood, on Stane Street, 58

Rother, river of, 43, 44

Valley of, marshes in, bound Sussex eastward, 5

Western, 35

Rotherfield, antiquity of, 90

Rottingdean, in Doomsday survey of Rape of Lewes, 83

modern disfigurement of, 139

Rusper, late mention of, 102

Rye, antiquity and original conditions of, 92

harbour of, difficulty of entry, 182

Saddlescombe, 177

Saint Wilfrid, story of, 64

Sand formations in the Weald, 13

Saxon invasions of Sussex, 60-64

See of Selsea, founded, 64

Senlac, discussion of the name, 72

Shelleys, family of, 127, 132, 133

Shipley, developed in twelfth century, 101

Shoreham Harbour, entry of for small craft, described, 185

Shoreham, Old, position on Adur, 39

rise and decline of, 102-103

Singleton, in Doomsday, 116

Manor of, history of, 130

Slinfold, 113

South Downs, backbone of Sussex, 3

contour of, 9

journey along crest of described, 161-180

Southstoke on Arun, 37

Squires, rise of the power of, and disintegration of feudal system, 119-125

St. Denis, monastery of, original lords of Rotherfield, 90

“St. George and the Dragon” Inn at Houghton, 112

St. Leonard’s Forest, originallv Braose Land, 102

Stane Street, appearance of Gumber Corner, 171, 172

Roman road, crossing Arun, 36

fully described, 54-58

Stenes, southern valleys of Downs, 23

Steyning, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Stopham, junction of Western Rother and Arun, 35

mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Storrington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

Strickland, family of, 126

Sussex, bounded by the Weald, 2

character of peasant in, 144

created from the sea, 2

east, gradual disfigurement of, 146

epithet “Scilly” applied to, 117

exploration of east and west, 159-161

feudalism, strength of, 78

general plan of, 45, 46

grouped round the South Downs, 2

isolation in prehistoric times, 47

landscapes of, 150-155

natural boundaries of, east and west, 5

northern boundary of, nature of, 8

peasant, character of, 148

peculiar dialect of, somewhat exaggerated, 143

place names, 51

place names, pronunciation of, 149, 150

rivers, 3, 35-44

rivers of, determined the first settlements, 4

sharp division in east and west, 144

towns developed later according to distance from sea, 7

Sutton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Thatch, excellence of in Sussex, 135

Theakham, 14

Tortington, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Monastery of, 119

Towns, Sussex, developed later according to distance from sea, 7

Tumuli above Duncton Hill, 27

on Downs, 27

Uckfield, late development of, 91

Upper Waltham, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Valleys, to south of Downs, called stenes, 23

Villages to south of Downs, 29

under escarpment of Downs, 29

Walberton, mentioned in Doomsday, 105

Warren, the family of overlords of Rape of Lewes, 79

Warren, William of, first overlord of Rape of Lewes, 82

Washington, on old British trackway under the Downs, 15

pass over Downs at, 176

Watering-places, growth of, 136-142

Weald and parishes, shape of, 8

bounding Sussex to the north, 2

forest track through, present itinerary of described, 156-159

general character of, 12, 13

its military function at Norman Conquest, 73-76

West Dean House, example of flint building, 32

West Hampnet, on Stane Street, 54

Wilfrid, Saint, story of, 64

Willingdon Hill, 179

Winchelsea, antiquity of and original conditions of, 92

Wolstonbury Hill, 177

Woods of the Downs, 22, 23

Worth, last stage of development of Rape of Lewes, 84

Yapton, 11

THE END

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