CHAPTER XI

CHARACTERISTICS

Perhaps one of the most admirable features in the character of the

Japanese is their great power of self-control. The superficial observer

on his first visit to Japan, because of this very quality of theirs, is

at first liable to imagine that the Japanese have no emotion. This is a

mistake. I have lived with them; I know them through and through; and I

know that they are a people of great emotions, emotions that are perhaps

all the deeper and stronger because they are unexpressed. Self-control

is almost a religion with the Japanese. In their opinion it is wrong and

selfish to the last degree to inflict one's sorrows and one's cares upon

other people. The world is sad enough, they argue, without being made

sadder by the petty emotions of one's neighbour: so the people of Japan

all contrive to present a gay and happy appearance to the outside world.

You may express your feelings in the solitude of your own room, and

there is no doubt that the Japanese suffer terribly among themselves,

although a stranger, and especially a European, will never detect a

trace of it.

I once went to call, with a resident of Japan, on an old Japanese lady,

to condole with her on the loss of her husband and her only son, who had

both been swept away, with thousands of others, in a great tidal wave

only a few days previously. As we neared the house we saw, through the

partially-opened sliding door, the old woman rocking herself to and fro

in an agony of sorrow, literally contending with emotion, and suffering

as I have never seen a human being suffer before. I was terribly

shocked, and we naturally hesitated for some time before announcing

ourselves; but by the time the mourner appeared at the door to greet us,

she was all smiles. It was difficult to believe that she was the same

woman. Her face shone with radiant happiness, and all traces of sorrow

had disappeared. In the course of the conversation she did not avoid the

sore subject, but rather chose it, and talked of the death of her

husband and her son with a smiling face and an expression by which one

might very pardonably have judged that she had no feelings whatever.

This was self-control indeed, and it is only in Japan that one

encounters such striking illustrations of superb pluck and endurance.

[Illustration: YOUTH AND AGE]

In my opinion, this great self-control is an evidence of the very high

standard of civilisation of the Japanese. If one is at all observant and

really in sympathy with the people, one is continually catching glimpses

of their real natures and instances of their magnificent self-command.

Once I was talking to a little Japanese merchant, along with some

friends whom I had taken round to his store to buy curios. I had made

quite a friend of this man, and knew him well. We were all chaffing him

about getting married, and one of my friends said to him, "Well, why

don't you get married? But perhaps you have already got a wife!" The

little man looked up quickly with a smile on his face, and said--"Me

married already; me wife die two years past; two children die two years

past; all die, I think." The voice was perfectly steady, and the face

smiling, as he uttered this amazingly sad statement; but some one

chanced to look up and saw two great tears standing in his little

monkey-like eyes. Of course he was "no class," and, not being an actual

workman, but only a merchant, he was considered to be of rather a low

grade. Still, for this slight show of emotion, he had utterly disgraced

himself in his own eyes, and would afterwards, no doubt, atone for it by

torturing himself in private.

I saw many remarkable instances of the self-control of the Japanese

people when I visited the scenes of desolation caused from that great

tidal wave which destroyed nearly three thousand people. Village after

village I visited, some of them with only three or four living

inhabitants left; but in no case, with men, women, or children, did I

see the slightest trace of emotion. Here and there, indeed, you passed a

woman huddled up in a corner muttering and screaming, but only because

her mind had become unhinged by the loss of her home, or probably

village, and every relation she possessed. No Japanese in his senses

would amid the same circumstances be guilty of so much as a murmur or a

tear.

The Japanese are a brave people--not only the men, but the women too. In

fact, the women more especially are brave. Many women destroyed

themselves during the China-Japanese war, because their husbands had

been killed in battle. There was one Japanese woman in Tokio who felt so

deeply the disgrace placed upon her country by the attempt on the life

of the present Emperor of Russia some years ago by a common coolie, that

she committed suicide. She felt that this great European prince had

visited her country as a guest, and that before Japan could raise its

head once more the nation must make some great sacrifice. Day after day

she visited the Legation, and begged to be allowed admission to some of

the high officials--in vain: they were too busy to see her. At last,

after some weeks of fruitless effort, she went home in despair and

killed herself, leaving a pathetic little letter to the Minister stating

that she hoped that the sacrifice of her life might in some way help to

cleanse her country from its disgrace.

[Illustration: LOOKERS-ON]

Patriotism is a strong trait in the character of the Japanese; but

perhaps their imagination and their love of Nature are even stronger,

and at all events will cause them to bound forward and become a

first-rate power. This universal force of the imagination is a quality

that no other nation possesses, and it is a quality that will cause her,

not so very many years hence, to dominate the world. All the Japanese

possess imagination, from the highest to the lowest; it is shown in

every action and detail of their daily life. There is no one of them,

even to the poorest coolie, who has not some little collection of

exquisite works of the art that he loves. Your jinricksha man, if you

were ever allowed the privilege of visiting his house, would in all

probability be able to show you one or two choice specimens, either in

china or in bronze, of his household gods. And so strongly is the love

of Nature impressed within him that he cannot pass a beautiful scene--a

hillside of blossom, or a sunset--without stopping his ricksha to allow

you also the privilege of enjoying it. Often when taking a drive in the

country he will suddenly stop in front of some delightful scene, put

down your ricksha, and, taking from his kimono sleeve a little roll of

rice, wrapped in a dainty bamboo leaf, will sit down and begin to eat it

with his chopsticks, continuing to gaze at the scene, every now and then

looking up at you for sympathy. If you are an artist, and will look at

the scene intelligently and appreciatively, this little ricksha man will

be your slave for life and will do anything for you.

Men are esteemed in Japan in proportion to their artistic capabilities,

and not for their banking accounts. It is in this quality of imagination

that we Britishers are deficient. Our lack of imagination will be the

cause of the decline of our Empire, if it does decline.

Then, the Japanese are a polite people. If you give a present to some

little child, a mite strapped to the back of a sister that is scarcely

bigger than itself, you are almost sure to find that little child

waiting for you on your return to your hotel with some small trifle to

offer you; and this little one will bow to you from its rather awkward

position with all the grace imaginable. Two coolies sweeping the roads,

when meeting for the first time in the day, will lay down their brooms

and salute each other before passing on their way to work.

I have had many experiences, when sketching the streets of Japan, of the

people's politeness. A policeman becoming interested in my work would

help to keep clear a space in the road, and never dream of overlooking

my work or of embarrassing me in any way. In one street of a village he

actually had the traffic turned down another way, so as not to interfere

with my sketching. Fancy a policeman in England diverting the traffic

simply because an artist wanted to sketch a meat shop!

One of the most remarkable illustrations of the native politeness that I

have ever witnessed was in Tokio. A man pulling along a cart loaded high

up with boughs of trees chanced to catch the roof of a coolie's house in

one of his pieces of timber, tearing away a large portion of it (for a

roof is a very slim affair in Japan). The owner of the house rushed out

thoroughly upset, and began to expostulate, and to explain how very

distressing it was to have one's roof torn off in this manner. No doubt

if he had been a Britisher he would have used quaint language; but there

are no "swear words" in the Japanese language--they are too polite a

people. The abused one stood calmly, with arms folded, listening to the

harangue, and saying nothing. Only, when the enraged man had finished,

he pointed to the towel which in his haste the coolie had forgotten to

take off his head. At once the coolie realised the enormity of his

offence. Both hands flew to the towel, and tore it off in confusion, the

coolie bowing to the ground and offering humble apologies for having

presumed to appear without uncovering his head. For in Japan one must

always uncover, whether to a sweep or to a Mikado. The two parted the

best of friends. One had been impolite enough to forget to uncover; the

other had torn away a roof. The rudeness of the one balanced the injury

of the other. Thus are offences weighed in Japan.

THE END

_The illustrations in this impression were engraved and printed by the

Carl Hentschel Colourtype Process. The letterpress was printed by

Messrs. R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh._

[Illustration]

Japan: A Record in Colour · 第 11 / 11 章