EDWARD VI AND MARY. TRANSITIONAL PERIOD
During this period not more than sixty brasses were laid down. This was
largely due to the religious and political turmoil of the period and is
the more to be regretted, especially in the case of the clergy, as the
brasses might have thrown much light on the question of the vestments
worn during the time when the first and second Prayer Books of Edward
VI were in use.
The engraving grows steadily poorer and the metal thinner.
Of the ecclesiastics, the following is believed to be a complete
list for both reigns, but the Marian clergy, being naturally in full
vestments, have for the most part been mentioned before.
Hugh Brystowe (parson), Waddesdon, Bucks. (in shroud), 1548.
Jn. White (Warden of Winchester College and later Bp. of
Winchester), Winchester College is in cope, laid down in 1548.
Thos. Magnus (archdeacon), Sessay, Yorks. (cope), 1550.
Bp. Goodryke of Ely, Ely Cathedral (full vestments), 1554.
Bp. Bell of Worcester, St James, Clerkenwell (ditto), 1556.
James Coorthopp (Dean of Peterborough), Christ Church, Oxford
(in almuce), 1557.
Arthur Cole (Canon of Windsor), Magdalen College, Oxford (in
mantle of the Order), 1558.
Robt. Brassie (in almuce), King’s College, Cambridge, 1558.
The largest number of transitional brasses represent men in armour
either with or without the tabard of arms.
The chief changes are that the mail skirt has often an indented edge,
the taces are divided at the lower part by an arched opening between
the tuilles, and frills are worn at the wrists.
The most noteworthy change in the ladies’ attire is that the kennel
head-dress is abandoned. The hair is parted in front and a linen cap
supports a bonnet, often of velvet and having a jewelled edge. It is
generally of horseshoe shape. A kerchief hangs down over the neck and
shoulders behind. This head-dress is continued during the reign of
Elizabeth and was known as the Queen Mary cap, at first after Mary
Tudor, and later after Mary Stuart. The sleeves are slashed and puffed
at the shoulders and from the belt hangs a mirror or other ornament.
The collar is thrown open and reveals a gathered underbodice. A long
cloak with false sleeves is often found, and heraldic mantles are
still worn when the husband appears in a tabard. These died out in the
opening years of Elizabeth, as already stated.
Of civilians little need be said. Their wives follow the new style, but
little alteration in their own dress is noticeable. Three examples may
be given, the last a woolman, the other two judges. These are Henry
Bradschawe and wife, Halton, Bucks., 1553; Wm. Coke and wife, Milton,
Cambridge, 1553; Anthony Cave and wife, Chicheley, Bucks., 1558.