taken for Centre Harbor, at the head of the lake. Here the traveller may
either take the daily stages for West Ossipee (E. R.R.) or steamer to
Weirs (B., C., & M.), and thus be again on the direct rail routes.
HOW TO CHOOSE A LOCATION.--Do you wish a quiet retreat, off the
travelled routes, where you may have rest and seclusion, or do you
desire to fix yourself in a position favorable to exploring the whole
mountain region?
In either case consult (1) some friend who has visited the mountains;
(2), consult the maps in this volume; (3), consult the landlord in any
place you may fancy for a limited or a lengthened residence; (4), apply
to the agents of the Eastern, Portland, & Ogdensburg, Boston, Concord, &
Montreal, Boston & Maine, or Grand Trunk Railways, for books or folders
containing a list of the mountain hotels reached by their lines, and the
charge for board by the day and week. (The Eastern, and B., C., & M.
print revised lists every year, for gratuitous distribution.)
Wolfborough, Weirs, Centre Harbor, and Sandwich (all on or near
Lake Winnipiseogee); Blair's, Sanborn's, Campton Village, Thornton,
and Woodstock, in the Pemigewasset Valley; Tamworth, Conway Corner,
Fryeburg, the Intervale (North Conway), Jackson, the Glen House, Bethel
(Me.), Shelburne, Randolph, East Jefferson, Jefferson Hill, Lancaster,
Littleton, Franconia, Sugar Hill, Haverhill, and Newbury (Vt.)--all come
within the category first named; while the second want will be supplied
at such points as North Conway, Crawford's, Fabyan's, Twin Mountain
House, Bethlehem, and the Profile House. North Conway and Bethlehem are
the keys to the whole mountain region. Fabyan's and the Glen House are
the proper points from which to ascend Mount Washington.
To aid in locating these places on the map, refer constantly to the
Index at the end of the volume.
Leaving Boston or Portland in the morning, any of the points named may
be reached in from four to eight hours.
HINTS FOR TOURISTS.--Select your destination, if possible, in advance;
and if you require apartments, telegraph to the hotel where you mean
to stop, giving the number of persons in your party, thus avoiding
the disappointment of arriving, at the end of a long journey, at an
over-crowded hotel.
[Illustration: U. S. METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON, IN
SUMMER.]
Should you fix upon a particular locality for a long or short stay,
write to one (or more) of the landlords for terms, etc.; and if his
house is off the line of railway, inform him of the day and train you
mean to take, so that he may meet you with a carriage at the nearest
station. But if you do not go upon the day named, remember to notify the
landlord.
Always take some warm woollen clothing (inside and outside) for mountain
ascensions. It is unsafe to be without it in any season, as the nights
are usually cool even in midsummer.
From the middle of June to the middle of October is the season of
mountain travel. The best views are obtained in June, September, and
October. From the middle of September to the middle of October the air
is pure and invigorating, the mountain forests are then in a blaze of
autumnal splendor, the cascades are finer, and out-of-door jaunts are
less fatiguing than in July and August.
Should you wish merely to make a rapid tour of the mountain region, it
will be best so to arrange your route before starting that the first day
will bring you where there is something to be seen, to a comfortable
hotel, and from which your journey may be continued with an economy of
time and money.
The three journeys described in this volume will enable you to see all
that is most desirable to be seen; but the excellent facilities for
traversing the mountains render it immaterial whether these routes
are precisely followed, taken in their reverse order, or adopted as
a general plan, with such modifications as the tourist's time or
inclination may suggest.
Upon arriving at his destination the traveller naturally desires to
use his time to the best advantage possible. But he is ignorant how to
do this. "What shall I do?" "Where shall I go?" are the two questions
that confront him. Let us suppose him arrived, first, at NORTH
CONWAY.
As he stands gazing up the Saco Valley, Moat Mountain is on his left,
Kearsarge at his right, and Mount Washington in front. (Refer to the
Chapter and Index articles on North Conway.) The high cliffs on the side
of Moat are called the Ledges. This glorious view may be improved by
going a mile up the railroad, or highway, to the Intervale. The Ledges
contain the local celebrities. Taking a carriage, or walking, one may
visit them in an afternoon, seeing in turn Echo Lake, the Devil's Den,
the Cathedral, and Diana's Baths. The picturesque bits of river, meadow,
and mountain seen going and returning will make the way seem short, and
are certain to detain the artistic traveller. Artists' Falls, on the
opposite side of the valley, will repay a visit, if the stream is in
good condition. Artists' Brook, on which these falls are, runs from the
hills east of the village. A carriage-road leads to the Artists' Falls
House, from which a short walk brings one to the falls. This excursion
will require not more than two hours. Then there are the drives to
Kearsarge village, under the mountain, and back by the Intervale; to
Jackson, over Thorn Hill, and back by Goodrich Falls (three to four
hours each); to Bartlett Bowlder, by the west, and back by the east side
of the valley; to Fryeburg and Mount Chocorua--the last two requiring
each half a day at least. The ascent of Kearsarge (from Kearsarge
village) or of the Moats (from Diana's Baths) each demands a day to
itself. But by starting early in the morning a good climber may ascend
and descend Kearsarge, getting back to the village by two o'clock in the
afternoon.
_At the Intervale_ he can easily repeat all these experiences, as this
is a suburb of North Conway. Let him take his first stroll over the
meadows to the river, or among the grand old pines in the forest near
the railway station, while preparing for more extended excursions.
_At Glen Station._--While waiting for the luggage to be put on, if the
day is perfectly clear, the traveller, by going up the track a few
rods, to the bridge over the Ellis, may get a glimpse of the summit of
Mount Washington, with the hotel upon the apex; also of Carter Notch.
On the way to Jackson he will pass over Goodrich Falls by a bridge. He
should not fail to remark the fine cliffs of Iron Mountain, at his left
hand, before entering the village. Should he be _en route_ for the Glen
House, let him be on the lookout for the Giant's Stairs, on the left,
after leaving Jackson, and then for the grand view of Pinkham Notch,
with Mount Washington at the left, about four miles beyond Jackson. The
summit of Spruce Hill--the scene of the highway robbery in 1881--is the
top of the long rise beyond the bridge over Ellis River.
_At Jackson_ we have moved eight miles nearer Mount Washington, in
the direction of the Glen House (12 miles) and Gorham (20 miles), and
also toward the Carter Notch, distant from the village 9 miles. The
excursions back to North Conway are similar to those described from
that place. The first thing to do here is to stroll up the Wildcat, and
pass an hour or two among the falls on this stream, which begin at the
village. A walk or drive up this valley to Fernald's Farm, and back
by the opposite side, or over Thorn Hill, are two tempting half-day
excursions. In an hour one may walk to Goodrich Falls (road to Glen
Station) and back to the village. He may start after breakfast, and
drive to Glen Ellis Falls (road to Glen House), eight miles, returning
to the hotel for dinner; or, lunching at Glen Ellis, go on one mile
farther to the Crystal Cascade; then, dining at the Glen House (3
miles), return at leisure. But it is a mistake to take two such pieces
of water in one day. The pedestrian whose base is Jackson, and who
makes this trip, should pass the night at the Glen House and return by
the Carter Notch, the distance being about the same as by the highway.
But he should never try this alone, for fear of a disabling accident.
Or he may take the Glen House stage at Jackson early in the afternoon,
and, letting it drop him at Glen Ellis, make his own way to the hotel
(4 miles) on foot, after a visit to the falls. Apply to Mr. Osgood, the
veteran guide, at the Glen House, for services, or directions how to
enter the Carter Notch from the Glen House side; and to Jock Davis, who
lives at the head of the Wildcat Valley, if going in from the Jackson
side.
Ladies who are accustomed to walking can reach Carter Notch with a
little help now and then from the gentlemen. But the fatigue of going
and returning on the same day would be too great. A party could enter
the Notch in the afternoon, pass the night in Davis's comfortable cabin,
and return the next morning. The path in is much easier and plainer from
the Jackson than from the Glen House side; but there is no difficulty
about keeping either. Davis will take up everything necessary for
camping out, except food, which may be procured at your hotel before
starting. There is plenty of water in the Notch.
_At the Glen House_ one may finish the afternoon by walking back a mile
on the Jackson road to the Emerald Pool; or, if he is in the vein, go
one mile farther on to Thompson's Falls, and, ascending to the top, look
over the forest into Tuckerman's Ravine. The Crystal Cascade (3 miles)
and Glen Ellis (4 miles) from the hotel, ought to occupy half a day, but
three hours (driving) will suffice, if one is in a hurry. The drive to
Jackson, or march into the Notch, are just noted under Jackson. To go
into Tuckerman's Ravine by the Crystal Cascade, or by Thompson's Path
(Mount Washington carriage-road), will take a whole day. Ladies have
been into Tuckerman's; but the trial cannot be recommended except for
the most vigorous and courageous. The Appalachian Club has a camp near
Hermit Lake, where a party going into the ravine in the afternoon may
pass a comfortable night, ascend to the Snow Arch in the morning, and
return to the hotel for dinner.
A three-mile walk on the Gorham road, crossing the Peabody River to the
Copp Farmhouse, gives a view of the celebrated "Imp" profile, on the
top of the opposite mountain. This walk is an affair of two hours and
a half. (See art. "Imp" in Index.) The Garnet Pool (one mile from the
hotel) may be taken on the way. Or, for a short and interesting stroll,
go down this road a half-mile to where the Great Gulf opens wide before
you its immense wall of mountains. The carriage-road to the summit
requires four hours for the ascent by stage; a good climber can do it
on foot in about the same time. Should a storm overtake him above the
woods, he can find shelter in the Half-way House, just at the edge of
the forest.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON.]
_At Crawford's_ one can saunter into the woods at the left of the
hotel, and enjoy himself in the sylvan retreat, "Idlewild;" or, going
down the road, ascend the Elephant's Head by a path turning in at the
left (sign-board), obtaining the view down the Notch; or, continuing
on a short distance, enter and examine the Gate of the Notch. All
these objects are in full view from the hotel. Other rambles of an
hour are to Gibbs' Falls, entering the woods at the left of the hotel
(guide-board), or, crossing the bridge over the railroad track on the
right, to Beecher's Cascades. The ascent of Mount Willard (3 miles)
should on no account be omitted. Good carriage-road all the way, and
vehicles from the hotel. The celebrated Crawford Trail to the Summit
of Mount Washington, the scene of many exploits, begins in the grove
at the left of this hotel. The distance is fully nine miles, and six
or seven hours will be none too many for the jaunt. Four intervening
mountains, Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, are crossed. There
is a shelter-hut in the woods near the summit of Clinton.
[Illustration: METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON, IN WINTER.]
_At Fabyan's._--Three or four hours may be profitably spent on Mount
Deception, opposite the hotel. The first summit is as much as one would
care to undertake in an afternoon, to get the extended and magnificent
view of the great range at sunset. Opposite the hotel is a cosy little
cottage, kept open by the railroads for the use of travellers, and to
give them information respecting routes, hotels, distances, fares, etc.
The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls (3-1/2 miles) are well worth a visit. They
are on the Old Turnpike to the base of Mount Washington. The traveller
has now at command all the important points in the mountains.
He is 9 miles from the Summit, 4 from Crawford's, 29 from North Conway,
13 from Bethlehem, 22 from the Profile, and 18 from Jefferson--all
reached by rail in one or two hours.
_At Bethlehem._--If the tourist locates himself at the "Maplewood," the
walk up the mountain to the Observatory, or to Cruft's Ledge, at sunset,
or to the village (1-1/2 miles), or down the Whitefield road to The
Hollow, is a good introduction. At "The Street" he will find the busiest
thoroughfare in the mountains, leading him on to a beautiful panorama
of the Ammonoosuc Valley, with Littleton in its lap; or, ascending the
old Profile House road above the Sinclair House for a mile, will see the
great Franconia mountains from the best view-point. Bethlehem is 9 miles
from the Profile House, 13 from Fabyan's, 17 from Crawford's, 42 from
North Conway, 15 from Jefferson, and 22 from the Summit.
_At Profile House._--If you arrive by rail via Bethlehem, you have
crossed the broad flank and great ravine of Mount Lafayette to the
shores of Echo Lake, a mile from the hotel. But the opposite side
of this lake is a more eligible site for views of the surrounding
mountains; and the summit of Bald Mountain, at its north end, is still
better. From the long piazza of the Profile House the great Notch
mountains close in toward the south. Cannon Mountain is on your right,
with the peculiar rocks giving it this name thrust out from the highest
ridge in full view. The woods at the foot of this mountain, filling
the pass in front of you, conceal the beautiful Profile Lake, the
twin-sister of Echo Lake. The enormous rock at your left is Eagle Cliff,
a spur of Mount Lafayette, the mountain being ascended on the south side
of this cliff. Improve the first hour of leisure by walking directly
down the road to Profile Lake. In a few minutes you will reach the shore
near a rustic arbor (guide-board), furnished with seats, and here you
command the best view of the renowned "Old Man of the Mountain." Boats
may be had here for a sail upon the lake. Return to the hotel by the
path through the woods. Walk next up the pass one mile to Echo Lake
(boats and fishing-gear at the boat-house); or, extending your jaunt
as far as Bald Mountain, obtain, by following the old path through the
woods at the right, the best observation of the pass from the north. The
trip to the Flume House (including the Basin, Pool, and Flume) is next
in order, and will occupy a half day, although the distance is only six
miles, and the road excellent. If the forenoon is taken, a party can
either return to the hotel for dinner or dine well at the Flume House.
The Pool is reached by a path half a mile long, entering the woods
opposite the Flume House. It will take an hour to drive to the Flume;
and an hour to go into the chasm itself and return is little enough;
allowing another hour for the Pool makes four hours for the excursion.
The ascent of Mount Lafayette (3-3/4 miles) demands three to four hours.
Saddle-horses can be procured at the hotel. Those unwilling to undertake
the whole climb may, by ascending Eagle Cliff (1 mile on same path),
secure a grand view of the Notch and lakes, the Profile, the ravines,
and the Pemigewasset Valley. A stage leaves the Profile House every
morning for Plymouth, connecting with trains for Boston and New York,
and permitting the tourist to enjoy the beauties of the Pemigewasset
Valley. But it is better to ascend this valley.
_At the Flume House_ (refer to the preceding article).--It is a
comparatively easy climb of an hour and a half to the top of Mount
Pemigewasset, behind the hotel. See, from the hotel, the outline of the
mountain ridge opposite, called Washington Lying in State.
_At Jefferson._--The branch railway from Whitefield (B., C., & M. R.R.)
leaves its passengers about three miles from the cluster of hotels and
boarding-houses called Jefferson Hill, or five from East Jefferson
(E. A. Crawford's, Highland, or Mount Adams House); but carriages
are usually in waiting for all these houses. The walks and drives up
and down this valley are numerous and interesting, especially so in
the direction of Mount Adams and Randolph Hill, Cherry Mountain and
Lancaster. The trip over Cherry Mountain, reaching Fabyan's (13 miles)
by sunset, or from Fabyan's, reaching Jefferson at this hour, is a
memorable experience of mountain beauty. Excursions to Mount Washington,
Profile House, Glen House, or Gorham, demand a day. The ascent of Starr
King, Owl's Head, Ravine of the Cascades, King's Ravine, or Mount Adams
are the _pièces de résistance_ for this locality.
ITINERARY OF A WALKING TOUR.--Two weeks of fine weather will enable
a good pedestrian to traverse the mountains from Plymouth to North
Conway, or _vice versa_, following the great highways throughout the
whole journey, and giving time to see what is on the route. Good hotel
accommodation will be found at the end of each day. Should bad weather
unsettle his plans, he will nearly always be able to avail himself of
regular stage or railway conveyance for a less or greater distance.
Thus: First day, Plymouth to Woodstock (dine at Sanborn's, West
Campton), 16 miles; second day, Flume House (visiting Flume and Pool),
8 miles; third day, Profile House (visiting Basin and "Old Man"), 5-1/2
miles; fourth day, Bethlehem (_via_ Echo Lake and Franconia), 9 miles;
fifth day, Whitefield, 8 miles; sixth day, East Jefferson, 13 miles;
seventh day, Glen House, 14 miles; eighth day, for vicinity of Glen
House; ninth day, Summit of Mount Washington by carriage-road, 8 miles;
tenth day, descent by mountain railway to Crawford's, 13 miles; eleventh
day, through the Notch to Bartlett, 13 miles; twelfth day, Jackson and
vicinity, 9 miles; thirteenth day, North Conway, 8 miles. Total, 124
miles.
_Advice for Climbers._--Don't hurry when on a level road--keep your
strength for the ascent. Always take the long route up a mountain, if it
be the easier one. Be careful where you plant the foot in gullied trails
or on icy ledges--a sprain is a serious matter if you are alone. Carry
in your pocket a flask, fitted with a tumbler or cup; matches that will
ignite in the wind, half a dozen cakes of pitch-kindling, a good glass,
and a luncheon; in your hand a stout walking-stick; and upon your feet
shoes that can be trusted--none of your gimcracks--but broad-soled ones,
shod with steel nails. On a long march a rubber overcoat, a haversack,
and an umbrella will be needed. Cold tea slakes thirst more effectually
than water; but when you are exposed to wet and cold something stronger
will be found useful. Should you have a palpitation of the heart, or an
inclination to vertigo, do not climb at all. Take quiet rambles instead.
My word for it, they are better for you than scaling breathless ascents
or looking down over dizzy precipices. If you feel nausea, stop at once
until you recover from it. If caught on the Crawford trail between
Mounts Clinton and Washington, go back to the hut on the first-named
mountain.
_Newspapers for Tourists_, at Bethlehem (_The Echo_) and on the Summit
(_Among the Clouds_) are published during the season of travel,
giving hotel arrivals, information concerning rail and stage routes,
excursions, and whatever may be of interest to the summer population in
general.
Telegraphic and telephone communication may be had at all the principal
hotels and railway-stations.
The Appalachian Mountain Club prints every year a periodical made up of
scientific and literary contributions from its members. Address the club
at Boston.
_Trout_, _pickerel_, and _black bass_ are found in all the mountain
waters. The State stocks the ponds and streams with trout, bass, and
salmon from its breeding-houses at Plymouth. Fishing legally begins May
1. There is good trout-fishing on Swift River (Albany), with Conway for
head-quarters. From Jackson, or Glen House, the Wildcat and Ellis are
both good trout streams; so are Nineteen-Mile Brook and the West Branch
of Peabody; but the Wild River region (from Shelburne, Glen House, or
Jackson) affords better sport, because less visited. To go in from
Jackson or Glen House a guide will be necessary, and Davis, of Jackson,
is a good one. From Jefferson and Randolph the upper waters of the
Moose, and Israel's River (especially in the Mount Jefferson ravine),
are fished with good success. E. A. Crawford, of East Jefferson, knows
the best spots. From Bartlett there should be good fishing on Sawyer's
River, above the Livermore mills. Consult Frank George, the veteran
landlord of the Bartlett House. From Crawford's the best fishing-ground
is Ethan's Pond, behind Mount Willey. At Franconia the writer has
seen some fine strings brought from the Copper-mine Brook (back of
Mount Kinsman). Fair fishing may also be had on Lafayette Brook--ask
Charles Edson, of the Edson House. Profile Lake is stocked with trout
for the benefit of guests of the hotel. The upper streams of the
Pemigewasset are all good fishing-ground. Apply to Mr. D. P. Pollard,
North Woodstock, or Merrill Greeley, Waterville. The houses of both are
resorted to by experienced fishermen who track the East Branch or Mad
River tributaries. Pickerel and bass are caught in Lakes Winnipiseogee,
Squam, Chocorua, Ossipee, and Silver, besides scores of ponds lying
chiefly in the lake region.
N.B.--Those going exclusively to fish should go early in the season for
the best sport.
_Guides._--The landlords will either accompany you or procure a suitable
person.
_Camping Out._--A wall tent is preferable, but two persons get along
comfortably in one of the "A" pattern. Get one with the fly, which
can be spread behind the tent, thus giving an additional room, in
which the cooking and eating may be done under cover. Set up your tent
where there is natural drainage--where the surface water will run off
during wet weather. Dig a shallow trench around it, on the outside,
for this purpose, and if you can obtain them, lay boards for a floor.
A kerosene-oil stove, with its utensils, folding cot-bed, camp-chairs,
and mess-chest, containing dishes (tin is best), constitute a complete
outfit, to be reduced according to convenience or pleasure. To make a
woods-man's camp, first set up two crotched posts five feet high, and
six or eight apart (according to number). On these lay a pole. From this
pole three or four others extend to the ground. Then cut brush or bark
for the roof and sides, and build your fire in front. For a camp of this
sort a hatchet and packet of matches only are necessary. But always
pitch your encampment in the vicinity of wood and water.
_Mount Washington Railway._--Length, from base to summit, 3 miles. Rise
in the three miles, 3,625 feet. Steepest grade, 13-1/2 inches in three
feet, or 1980 feet to the mile. Begun in 1866; completed in 1869.
_Mount Washington Carriage-road._--Length, 8 miles. Average grade, one
foot in eight. Steepest grade, one foot in six. Begun in 1855; finished
in 1861.
_Mount Washington Signal Station._--The Summit was first occupied for
scientific purposes in the winter of 1870-'71. Since then it has been
attached to the Weather Bureau at Washington, and occupied by men
detailed from the United States Signal Corps, the men volunteering for
the service.