A glance at the southeast corner of the map (fig. 1) shows that most of
the arches and prehistoric ruins in the park are in Salt Canyon and its
main tributary, Horse Canyon. A few are in adjacent Davis and Lavender
Canyons, whose headwaters were recently annexed to the park. These
canyons are accessible only by negotiating the streambeds on
four-wheel-drive vehicles, horseback, or foot. Salt or Horse Canyons are
best conquered by four-wheel-drive vehicles plus short hikes in the
northern part and long hikes in the southern part.
An aerial view (fig. 40) eastward across Salt Canyon shows that erosion
has produced an intricate series of meandering canyons separated by
rather narrow walls of the Cedar Mesa Sandstone, resembling somewhat The
Maze, west of the Green River.
[Illustration: AERIAL VIEW EASTWARD ACROSS SALT CANYON. Note narrow
walls and pinnacles between canyons and alcoves. Six-Shooter Peaks
are in left background. Photograph by Wayne Alcorn, National Park
Service. (Fig. 40)]
The massive sandstone beds of the Cedar Mesa are composed of sand grains
cemented together by calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), which also forms the
mineral called calcite and the rock known as limestone. Limestone and
calcite are soluble in acid, even weak acid such as carbonic acid
(H·HCO₃), formed by solution of carbon dioxide (CO₂) in water. Ground
water, found everywhere in rock openings at differing depths beneath the
surface, contains considerable dissolved carbon dioxide derived from
decaying organic matter in soil, from the atmosphere, and from other
sources. Even rain water and snow contain small amounts absorbed from
the atmosphere—enough to dissolve small amounts of limestone or of
calcite cement in sandstone. The calcite cement in the Cedar Mesa and
many other sandstones is unevenly distributed, so the cement is removed
first from places that contain the least amounts, and once the cement is
dissolved, the loose sand grains are carried away by gravity, wind, or
water. Thus, relatively thin walls of sandstone containing irregularly
distributed patches of soluble cement are prime targets for the
formation of potholes (fig. 46), alcoves, and caves. Once a breakthrough
occurs, weakened chunks from the ceiling tend to fall off, and arches of
various shapes are produced, because an arch is naturally the strongest
form that can support the overlying rock load. Man, from the ancient
Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians to modern day, has long made use of arches
in building bridges, aqueducts, temples, cathedrals, and other enduring
edifices. All the spectacular arches we are about to see were carved
from the Cedar Mesa Sandstone.
Let us begin our tour of Salt and Horse Canyons by driving a
four-wheel-drive vehicle eastward from the fine campground at Squaw
Flat. After about a mile we pass the Wooden Shoe (fig. 41) capping a
ridge south of the highway; it contains one of the smallest arches we
will encounter. Three quarters of a mile east of the temporary ranger
station we come to Cave Spring, an old restored cowboy line camp
pictured in figure 6. This and an adjacent cave containing a spring are
part of the interesting well-marked Environmental Trail, well worth the
half hour or so it requires.
[Illustration: WOODEN SHOE, near temporary ranger headquarters, the
Needles district. Carved in Cedar Mesa Sandstone. (Fig. 41)]
The jeep trail up Salt Canyon lies mostly in the sandy bed of Salt Creek
but includes a few shortcuts across goosenecks and some rough rocky
stretches around rapids or waterfalls. It is best traveled when the
canyon bottom is moist but not soaked. When the sand is soft and dry, a
shift into four-wheel drive is generally necessary. Signs warn of
quicksand, which occurs when the sand is fully saturated; hence, summer
thundershowers sometimes require delaying or postponing the trip. When
in doubt, consult a park ranger for expected weather and trail
conditions. Thundershowers sometimes occur so suddenly and violently as
to cause serious floods, and the “road” is closed when heavy rain is
expected. However, if an unexpected storm occurs while you are up in the
canyon, try to reach high ground and wait until the flood subsides. If
you do not have time to get your vehicle out of the flood’s path, at
least get yourself and passengers to a safe spot.
[Illustration: PAUL BUNYANS POTTY, on east wall of Horse Canyon.
(Fig. 42)]
Two and a half miles south of Cave Spring we reach the confluence with
Horse Canyon, marked by a sign at the Y giving distances to points of
interest up each canyon. Let us try Horse Canyon first. After about a
mile we pass Paul Bunyans Potty on the left—one of the most aptly titled
features of the park (fig. 42). Two miles south of the Y is Keyhole
Ruin, nestled in a cleft high on the cliff to our left—a granary built
by the Anasazi. Here we face another Y. The left fork leads half a mile
east to Tower Ruin (fig. 4), one of the largest and best preserved
Anasazi granaries in the park. The right fork takes us on up Horse
Canyon, and in about 2 miles we pass Gothic Arch on the right. In 2 more
miles, 4 miles from Salt Canyon, a short hike up the tributary to the
right leads to Castle Arch and Thirteen Faces. Assuming we have taken
photographs of the important features along the way, it probably is
about time to return to camp at Squaw Flat, unless we choose to spend
the night at Peek-a-boo Spring and primitive campground in Salt Canyon,
about 1.2 miles above the confluence with Horse Canyon.
Another drive takes us up Salt Canyon 8½ miles past the confluence with
Horse Canyon to another confluence and Y, which has a primitive campsite
without water. One mile up the left, or southeast, tributary is a
parking area where we begin the ½-mile walk to Angel Arch, considered by
many people to be the most beautiful and spectacular arch in the park if
not in the entire canyon country. Angel Arch was drawn for the front
cover by John R. Stacy and is pictured in figure 43.
[Illustration: Petroglyph]
[Illustration: ANGEL ARCH, along tributary of Salt Canyon. (Fig.
43)]
[Illustration: FISHEYE ARCH, along upper Salt Canyon, looking north.
Photograph by National Park Service. (Fig. 44)]
From the last Y we can proceed only about 2½ miles farther up main Salt
Canyon by vehicle, and the remaining features shown on the map (fig. 1)
can be reached only on foot. The All American Man, a unique pictograph
referred to earlier (fig. 3), is about 3½ miles up the canyon. Those
hardy souls who wish to hike many additional miles to the head of Salt
Canyon will be rewarded with views of four additional arches and several
ruins. Two of these arches are shown in figures 44 and 45.
The more adventuresome may wish to explore upper Lavender and Davis
Canyons by driving up the sand washes in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but
inquiry should be made from a park ranger regarding access to the canyon
mouths and condition of the washes. Hand Holt Arch (fig. 46) and Cleft
Arch (fig. 47) are two of the rewarding sights in Lavender Canyon, and
figure 48 shows one of the arches in Davis Canon.
[Illustration: WEDDING RING ARCH, along upper Salt Canyon.
Photograph by National Park Service. (Fig. 45)]
[Illustration: HAND HOLT ARCH, in Lavender Canyon. Note holes in
sandstone formed by solution and wind scour. Photograph by National
Park Service. (Fig. 46)]
[Illustration: CLEFT ARCH, in upper Lavender Canyon, looking north.
Photograph by E. N. Hinrichs. (Fig. 47)]
[Illustration: ARCH, in upper Davis Canyon, looking northwest.
Photograph by E. N. Hinrichs. (Fig. 48)]