Bridger returned, bringing with them our mail. We soon forgot the
fatigue of the body in the mental joys of the intercourse with our
absent loved ones.
_July 23_ (Friday). We marched sixteen miles and encamped on the bank
of the Green River. Throughout the march, as yesterday, no water could
be found that we could drink. Many of the men allayed their thirst by
mixing molasses and vinegar. Vasco Nunez de Balboa was not more
delighted at the discovery of the Pacific Ocean than were we at the
sight of the cool, clear water of the river, to which we helped
ourselves liberally. A rope ferry and a flatboat are kept here for the
convenience of the Government troops and trains. We are once more
favored with a grass bed instead of one of dust, and with white poplar
wood for fuel, instead of buffalo chips.
_July 24_ (Saturday). We merely crossed the river, our train being
safely moved by noon to the west side, where we pitched our tents, once
more on the sand. In the afternoon a high wind arose, which blew the
sand about in such quantities that we were obliged to keep within our
tents. But no place was exempt from the general plague, even our boxes,
when opened, being found to have their contents covered with fine dust.
_July 25_ (Sunday). We encamped on Blacks Fork, marching a distance of
fourteen and a half miles.
_July 26_ (Monday). We marched seventeen miles farther, and encamped on
Hams Fork. The emigrant road to Camp Scott was struck by us early in
the morning, and we were greatly rejoiced to find our road-making
duties terminated. The Emigrant Road is wide, level, and gravelly, and
was quite pleasant to travel upon, especially for us who had been
struggling through sage bushes for more than two weeks. Several parties
of emigrants were seen slowly wending their way toward the Great Salt
Lake. All had rough, uncouth wagons and poor, clumsy oxen--and they
themselves were rougher than any part of their outfit. We crossed a
bridge over Hams Fork, at which an infantry guard is stationed to
protect it from the depredations of the Indians and Mormons. Several
Mormons came to camp with wagons loaded with produce, for which they
demanded extravagant prices. They were immediately surrounded by us, as
much to see bona fide Mormons as to purchase these comforts and
luxuries of which we have been so long deprived. We were soon involved
in warm disputes concerning the justice of the Government and the
culpability of the Mormon leaders. They appeared to be very
intelligent, and evidently considered themselves a badly used people.
_July 27_ (Tuesday). We marched nineteen and a half miles, and encamped
again on Hams Fork, which we were obliged to ford four times during the
day. The country looks more fertile. We beheld, during the day,
unmistakable proof of the severity of Colonel Cook's march of last
winter, in the immense number of dead cattle scattered along the road.
We counted over three hundred carcasses of oxen and mules, and in some
places as high as ten, twelve, and fifteen in one group.
_July 28_ (Wednesday). We remained in camp, the Commanding Officer
having gone to Fort Bridger to ascertain if any orders were waiting for
him. This afternoon three companies of volunteers passed our camp en
route for the States; they were composed, we were informed, of the
teamsters who came out last fall and winter. They looked as though they
had seen some pretty hard service, but strode along nevertheless with
the determination, apparently, not to allow distance, inconvenience, or
other influence to retard their homeward progress. They regarded us
with an expression which seemed to say, "God help you, poor fellows! We
pity you, indeed."
_July 29_ (Thursday). We moved out at noon, and encamped on Henrys
Fork, four miles farther. Lieutenant Alexander and eight men, with
wagons, left us before daylight to go to the Fort for rations. When we
reached our new camp we found them already there, awaiting our arrival.
The move to-day was necessary in order to obtain a fresh supply of
grass, it being closely cropped by the cattle belonging to the
ox-trains which camp along these streams. A wagon load of soldiers
passed our camp, going to relieve the guard at the bridge.
_July 30_ (Friday). No march to-day. Our herd was sent about a mile up
the stream, half the guard accompanying it, relieved at noon by the
other half. The Infantry detachment, which we left behind a few days
ago to await the arrival of the Regiment, joined us this evening and
pitched camp alongside of us. The Mormons are again in camp with
butter, eggs, cheese, and onions.
_July 31_ (Saturday). We remained in camp all day. No duty was required
of us and we enjoyed a good rest, a luxury we have had but once since
our start from Leavenworth.
_August 1_ (Sunday). We moved on this morning and encamped within a half
mile of Fort Bridger. The Fort, as it appears to us from our camp,
resembles an extensive camp more than a fort, and is not inappropriately
named "Camp Scott." It is situated very low in a fertile valley,
directly at the foot of the highest chain of the Rocky Mountains we
have yet seen, and watered by an intricate maze of mountain streams.
This is the termination of our outward journey. We are a hundred and
thirteen miles from Salt Lake City, and very eager to proceed--tormented
with impatience by the dilatory movements, continually anxious lest a
peace should be concluded before we reach Salt Lake. Day and night we
are absorbed with speculation as to whether we will proceed to join
General Johnston or receive orders to return to the East.
_August 2_ (Monday). A party of us visited the Fort. It is composed
mostly of tents of all shapes and sizes. Attempts have been made to
render them comfortable for the winter by covering them with two or
three thicknesses of canvas. In front is erected a substitute for a
piazza, consisting of a sort of entry or hall enclosed with wagon
covers, while in the rear is seen a huge stack of mud blocks, arranged
as though a fruitless effort was made to get them into some kind of
symmetrical form, probably to represent masonry. We inquired whether
these appendages were intended for ornament or use, and were informed
that they were chimneys. The garrison consists of three companies, one
of cavalry and two of infantry, which are now engaged in erecting four
log buildings to be occupied as quarters during the coming winter.
The fort proper is represented by a wall about twenty-five feet in
height and three feet thick, built of cobblestones, whitewashed inside
and out. Within stands the commissary and sutler's stores, together
with a confused mass of rude buildings, in the pig-pen style of
architecture. The stone wall is flanked by two well-built lunettes,
with a relief of about fourteen feet, the gabion and fascine work being
substantially made and placed. In the salient of one of the lunettes is
a small brass four-pounder, mounted in barbette upon a wooden platform.
The ditch is enclosed with an abatis, which, considering the material
and means available, is quite an achievement in the art of field
fortification.
Great numbers of ox and mule wagons were corralled about the Fort,
having come out in trains from time to time. But the oxen that once
plodded their weary way before them have long since furnished food for
the garrison, and the mules have been sent to Salt Lake Valley. When
the wagons accumulate in such numbers as to form an obstacle they are
burned, being rarely sent back East.
To-day is election day in this country, and although we have been
residents of the place such a short time, we were besieged by the
friends of the candidates and the candidates themselves, for our
support. As there are but seventeen civilians about the Fort the
majority of the offices are filled by soldiers. The ticket consists of
one representative, three selectmen, one sheriff, one recorder, one
assessor, one coroner, one surveyor, one stray-pound keeper, one
justice of the peace and one constable.
A supply train of fifty-two wagons came in to the Fort to-day, of which
half remained here and the other half proceeded to join General
Johnston.
_August 3_ (Tuesday). The day was spent in putting in order the
contents of our train, which had fallen into confusion during the
march, and preparing ourselves either to continue into the farther
regions of Utah, or to turn about and take a second view of those we
have already once seen. Tools were, overhauled and assorted, account
taken of expenditures, and clothing and other necessities issued.
_August 4_ (Wednesday). A day occupied in writing and reading.
_August 5_ (Thursday). The three men whom we left behind with the Sixth
came to camp this afternoon, quite recovered from the fever. The
Regiment arrived and encamped on the opposite side of the Fort; the
remainder of the day and evening were naturally employed in mutual
visits between the two camps.
THE RETURN MARCH.
_August 6_ (Friday). Farewell, Brigham! This time ill fortune has
stepped between us. We had set our minds upon becoming acquainted with
you, but we are reluctantly compelled to forego the pleasure. Farewell,
ye Mormon dames! The fates have decreed that you are not yet to be
released from your odious thralldom. This time Duplicity, in the garb
of Peace--Evil arrayed in the robes of Amity--have triumphed, and
Justice, with a mournful smile and a pitying tear, puts aside her sword
and scale.
Such was the mental address which dwelt in our minds to-day, when we
received orders to return with all expedition and resume our customary
duties at West Point. The joyous prospect of meeting with old
associations and once more clasping the hands of our dear friends was
partially dampened by thoughts of the long, weary distance between us
and them, and of the numerous hardships and difficulties which lie
before us. We are to return by the Northern Route, through the South
Pass and Fort Laramie, and as we are to start early Monday we are
busily engaged to-day in making the necessary preparations.
_August 7_ (Saturday). To-day we finished our preparations for the
march and devoted the remainder of the day to rest. Many changes were
made in the personnel of the teamsters and other employees. As many of
the teamsters of the commissary train desired to return to the States,
they were sent to drive for us, and our teamsters were taken to supply
their places, the Sixth Infantry being under orders to proceed to
Oregon. One individual we parted with reluctantly, Mr. Dwyer, the
assistant wagon-master of our train, a man of noble character and a
great favorite with us. He was appointed full wagon-master in the
Sixth.
_August 8_ (Sunday). This was hailed as a day of rest, on which we did
nothing but think of the number of miles to be travelled before
reaching our much-wished-for haven.
_August 9_ (Monday). We started upon our return march, encamping on
Blacks Fork, a distance of eighteen and a quarter miles.
_August 10_ (Tuesday). We encamped on Blacks Fork again, after a march
of sixteen and three-quarter miles. When we were approaching the bridge
at Hams Fork one of our men, Bourcey, the blacksmith, was thrown from
the forge, the mules having been frightened at the body of a dead ox
lying in the road. His face was badly cut and it was feared he was
injured internally, as the wheel passed across his breast. He was left
at the bridge, in care of the guard stationed there.
_August 11_ (Wednesday). We reached the upper crossing of the Green
River. This has proved a very severe march, owing to the heat and sandy
road and to the length of the march, twenty-three and a third miles.
About 9 a.m. we arrived at the junction of this road and the new one we
made through Bridgers Pass. We reached the lower crossing of the Green
River at about half-past one. There we beheld large heaps of iron
scattered about near the river, a great deal of it imbedded in ashes;
this, we were informed, was all that remained of the Government train
the Mormons had destroyed at the commencement of hostilities. As the
river was too deep for fording at the lower crossing, we continued to
the upper one, where we managed to get safely across, the men holding
on behind the wagons.
_August 12_ (Thursday). We marched nineteen miles and arrived at the
Big Sandy Creek. A herd of cattle passed us to-day numbering nine
hundred head; they seemed in good condition and gave us evidence of the
plentifulness of grass along the route over which we are to pass.
_August 13_ (Friday). We continued the march to the Little Sandy,
nineteen miles farther. The road was hard and gravelly, the day cool,
with a bracing breeze, and we came into camp quite fresh and strong.
Our camp stands upon the bank of the creek, where excellent water is
available, wood convenient, and grass for the herd plentiful and good.
_August 14_ (Saturday). We reached Pacific Springs, having marched
twenty and a half miles. The ground was rough and hilly, and the mules
lagged a little. We like this kind of country best for marching, as we
have longer rests before the train catches up at the end of our
hour-long marches.
To-day we encountered an ox-train, the wagon-master of which had
yeast-powders for sale. We purchased some with great alacrity, as we
have been obliged to bake our cakes and bread without that ingredient.
The water here is found only in grassy springs and is not very pure.
_August 15_ (Sunday). We left camp this morning to make about a seven
mile march to Sweet Water, where we could find good grass and water,
but the march was drawn out to the length of twenty-three and a half
miles. We went through the South Pass, which is hardly deserving the
name of a pass, being nothing but a valley between hills. The Wind
River Mountains have been in sight all day, presenting, with their
irregular outlines, an imposing appearance. They are high and rocky,
with little or no vegetation.
Our camp to-night is on a branch of Sweet Water Creek.
_August 16_ (Monday). We remained in camp, enjoying a rest from the
fatigue of marching.
_August 17_ (Tuesday). We reached Sweet Water Creek, after a march of
twenty-three miles, during which we passed over a ridge of hills called
the "Devils Backbone." It was a very oppressive day, owing to the heat
and dust.
We met a contented looking family of emigrants, moving slowly westward.
They were quite surprised to see us and seemed to think we were going
the wrong way.
_August 18_ (Wednesday). We again encamped on Sweet Water Creek, a
distance of twenty-two and a quarter miles. A number of officers of the
Tenth Infantry, going to the States on leave of absence, stopped at our
camp, and went on in advance with our officers. When we reached our new
camp they were comfortably enjoying a prairie siesta.
_August 19_ (Thursday). Seventeen and a half miles were traversed in
to-day's march, which was characterized by many interesting features.
The Rattlesnake Mountains, through which the whole march lay, are very
high and rocky, but instead of being a continuous chain they stand
separate from each other, allowing the road to wind a comparatively
level course between them. We passed through Rattlesnake Pass, a very
wild, craggy gorge between the first peaks, the rocks and stones along
its precipitous sides thickly lettered over with rude attempts of
ambitious persons to hand down their names to posterity. Toward the
close of the march we passed through Sweet Water Canyon, the most
sublime spectacle we have yet witnessed. The coolness of this
delightful spot was a strong inducement for lingering, but duty pointed
us over the barren prairie again, and very reluctantly we left Sweet
Water Canyon behind.
We passed the Fourth Column, consisting of four companies of the
Seventh Infantry and a company of Cavalry, commanded by Colonel
Morrison.
_August 20_ (Friday). We moved on to the Devils Gate, a distance of
twenty and a half miles. The route lay principally along Sweet Water
Creek, the sight of which, its banks covered by a luxuriant growth of
grass, was very welcome to our eyes; and the road, too, instead of
being dusty, was hard and well beaten.
Company F, Seventh Infantry, passed us to-day, escorting the families
of some of the men of the Sixth Infantry. We also saw a large trading
post during the march, for the benefit of the neighboring tribes of
Indians and profit of the Canadian-French proprietor. It was, as is
usual with trading posts, surrounded by a number of Indian wigwams, the
denizens of which were lazily lolling in the sun.
_August 21_ (Saturday). At reveille all who wished to go through the
Devils Gate were requested to step to the front; the whole Company
unanimously presented themselves for a visit to his Satanic Majesty's
portals. The Gate is a gorge between the mountains, which, apparently,
have been parted for the express purpose of giving passage to the
waters of Sweet Water Creek. On one side the massive rocks rise to a
height of three hundred feet, projecting almost across the gap; at this
part a deep, black fissure starts from the bottom and ascends to the
very top, resembling a chimney; the gap about eighty feet wide, the
bottom covered with large boulders. We scrambled into every accessible
nook and corner, yelling and shouting like maniacs.
We went on to Greasewood Creek, marching twenty-one and three-quarter
miles. Another large trading post was seen to-day, kept by Louis
Greenyard; it is said to be the most extensive post along the route.
Mr. Greenyard has erected a bridge across the stream at this place.
_August 22_ (Sunday). We marched twenty-three and a quarter miles and
encamped on the banks of the North Fork of the Platte River. As on last
Sunday, we broke camp to move only a few miles to obtain grass for the
herd; but we made a long march, nevertheless. The route lay over a very
hilly and rocky country. At one time we would be gazing from the top of
a high hill, at another winding across the bottom of a barren, dusty
valley. The road was sandy and the water scarce. We hailed the view of
the North Fork with acclamations of joy. At our camp a trading and mail
post is stationed, and a little below stands an Arapahoe Indian
village, the inhabitants of which soon turned out to visit us.
_August 23_ (Monday). We did not move camp, but adopted this as a day
of rest. The Indians, no doubt, thought we stayed in order to give them
an opportunity of making acquaintance, which they set about doing in a
very indefatigable manner, greatly to our annoyance, for they are a
filthy, indolent tribe. We were obliged to remain in or near our tents
all day, to keep them out, not through fear of their taking anything,
for they appear to be honest, but for fear of their leaving vermin
behind.
_August 24_ (Tuesday). We encamped on Little Muddy Creek, after a march
of eighteen and a half miles. We followed the course of the river a few
miles, over a very uneven road. One hill was so steep that the ordinary
teams could not draw the wagons; we were forced to double the teams,
take half the train up first and then return for the remainder. We
passed the Fifth Column this morning, composed of Companies A and D,
Seventh Infantry, and a company of the Third Artillery, with a long
train. The Sixth Column then passed us, Companies I and E of the
Seventh Infantry and two companies of Cavalry, having under their
protection a number of emigrant wagons going to Salt Lake, the
emigrants being principally Danes and Germans.
About two miles below where we are encamped this evening a bridge is
built across the Platte and left in charge of two companies of the
Fourth Artillery.
A travelling grocery store came into camp this evening, a vehicle built
after the manner of a stage, and quite as ornamentally painted. The
usual commodities sold in Western stores were retailed at very moderate
prices from this fancy curiosity shop. As soon as custom began to lag,
the proprietor closed up shop and, whipping up his oxen, started in
search of a new location.
_August 25_ (Wednesday). We marched twenty-two miles, which brought us
to Deer Creek. The country is now assuming a very interesting
appearance to us, at least, who have been so long in the wilderness.
Our camp-ground, to-night, is a veritable flower garden; the fields
yellow with flowers, the green trees, the white, sandy banks of the
river, and the river itself, form a very beautiful spectacle. A
village, containing about a dozen log houses and Indian huts, stands
close by our camp. It is called "Dacotah City," and the inhabitants are
French and Indians.
_August 26_ (Thursday). Having marched eighteen and a quarter miles, we
camped on La Prele Creek. At Box Elder Creek we stopped at noon. The
mules were turned out to feed on the fine crop of grass, and the cooks
prepared our dinner. After two or three hours' rest we again took up
our march.
_August 27_ (Friday). We encamped on La Bonte Creek, after a march of
eighteen miles. The country seems to undergo a general improvement as
we approach Fort Laramie. Toward the close of the march Laramie Peak
came into view.
_August 28_ (Saturday). Our camp was pitched on Horseshoe Creek,
concluding a march of twenty-three and a half miles. A great deal of
timber was seen and we passed through several romantic looking glens
and ravines. The weather seemed mild and many of us rolled ourselves in
our blankets and, throwing ourselves upon the ground by the fires, were
soon lulled to sleep by the prairie serenaders--wolves, buffaloes,
owls, whippoorwills, and coyotes. But during the night the fires became
extinguished, and, a dense fog having arisen, our blankets were
saturated with water when we awoke.
_August 29_ (Sunday). We reached Bitter Cottonwood Creek after a march
of eighteen and a quarter miles. During most of the forenoon a thick
fog enveloped the country, effectually veiling the surrounding scenery
from our view--much to our annoyance, as we were expecting to come
within sight of Fort Laramie on this or to-morrow's march. We passed
several Indian lodges in the morning, from which a few dusky warriors
issued forth to greet us with the well-known words of welcome, "How!
How!" This evening our guide went ahead to the Fort, intending to
return to-morrow in order to direct us by a short cut.
_August 30_ (Monday). After marching twenty-one miles we entered the
long desired Fort Laramie. We again struck the Platte River shortly
after breaking camp. The whole road from Fort Bridger to Fort Laramie
has been infested with a nuisance in the shape of dead cattle. Not one
day's march have we made since leaving Fort Bridger that we are not
obliged to pass by many of these disgusting objects. We were informed
by a teamster of an ox train that one wagon-master had lost fifty
cattle in one night, with the bloody murrain, an epidemic which
prevails among the cattle in these regions to an alarming extent.
Our camp to-night is on the Laramie River, about half a mile below the
Fort.
_August 31_ (Tuesday). We prepared for muster, which took place at 8
a.m., the Company being mustered by our own Commanding Officer. The
Indians are about in great numbers, hanging around the camp all day,
begging for food and carrying away the offal which is left after
killing our beef. Several old crones and children have been scratching
in the grass, from daylight until dark, collecting the grains of corn
which the mules had left. At one of their villages across the river
they have been lamenting the demise of one of their tribe; they
commence their orgies at dusk with a low, plaintive wail, which they
gradually increase in volume until it becomes a wild, furious chant,
occasionally interrupted by dismal shrieks.
_September 1_ (Wednesday). The day was spent in preparing to resume our
march, rations being drawn and many articles, including the forge,
being turned over to the Quartermaster at the Fort. Some teamsters were
discharged and others engaged in their places.