CHAPTER I.

LIFE IN THE FORESTS

OF

THE FAR EAST.

[Illustration:

F. Jones, lith. Day & Son, Lith^{rs}. to the Queen

Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65 Cornhill, London.

KINA BALU FROM THE LOWER TAMPASUK.]

LIFE IN THE FORESTS

OF

THE FAR EAST.

BY

SPENSER ST. JOHN, F.R.G.S., F.E.S.,

FORMERLY H.M.’S CONSUL-GENERAL IN THE GREAT ISLAND OF BORNEO,

AND NOW

H.M.’S CHARGÉ D’AFFAIRES TO THE REPUBLIC OF HAYTI.

_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS._

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.

M.DCCC.LXII.

[_The right of Translation is reserved._]

PREFACE.

I have explained in a short introduction the object and plan of the

present volumes, and have little more to say, beyond a reference to the

assistance I have received, and the plates and maps which accompany

and illustrate them. In order to prevent mistakes, and correct my own

impressions, I submitted a series of questions to four gentlemen who

were intimately acquainted with the Dayak tribes, and they gave me

most useful information in reply. To Mr. Charles Johnson and the Rev.

William Chalmers I am indebted for very copious and valuable notes on

the Sea and Land Dayaks; and to the Rev. Walter Chambers and the Rev.

William Gomez for more concise, yet still interesting accounts of the

tribes with whom they live.

To Mr. Hugh Low, the Colonial Treasurer of Labuan, I am under special

obligations, as he freely placed at my disposal the journals he had

kept during our joint expeditions, as well as those relating to some

districts which I have not visited. It is to be regretted that he

has not himself prepared a work on the North-West Coast, as no man

possesses more varied experience or a more intimate knowledge of the

people.

With regard to the plates contained in this work, I am indebted to the

courtesy of George Bentham, Esq., the President of the Linnean Society,

for permission to engrave the figures of the Nepenthes from the

admirable ones published in Vol. XXII. of that Society’s Transactions,

and which being of the size of life are the more valuable.

I have inserted, with Dr. Hooker’s permission, his description of the

Bornean Nepenthes; and it will always be a subject of regret that

the British Government did not carry out their original intention of

sending this able botanist to investigate the Flora of Borneo, which is

perhaps as extraordinary as any in the world.

I have also to thank the Rev. Charles Johnson, of White Lackington,

and Charles Benyon, Esq., for the photographs which they placed at my

disposal, and which have enabled me to insert, among other plates, the

most life-like pictures of the Land and Sea Dayaks I have ever seen. To

the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel I am also indebted for

their generous offer to place all their drawings at my disposal.

I must likewise draw attention to the exquisite manner in which

the plates of the Nepenthes are coloured, and to the beauty of the

engravings in general. They are admirably illustrative of the country,

and do very great credit to the lithographers, Messrs. Day and Son,

and to their excellent draughtsmen. I ought also to mention that the

Nepenthes are drawn less than half the natural size, as it was found

impracticable to introduce the full size without many folds, which

would have speedily destroyed the beauty of the plates.

I will add a few words respecting the maps. The one of the districts

around Kina Balu was constructed from the observations made during

our two expeditions to that mountain. The map of the Limbang and

Baram rivers is the result of many observations, and with regard to

the position of the main mountains, I think substantially correct, as

they were fixed with the aid of the best instruments. The third map

is inserted in order to give a general idea of the North-West Coast,

though the run of the rivers is often laid down by conjecture.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 1

CHAPTER I.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

Habitat of the Sea Dayaks--Start for the Lundu--Inland

Passages--Fat Venison--The Lundu--Long Village House--Chinese

Gardens--Picturesque Waterfall--The Lundu

Dayaks--Their Village--Gradual Extinction of the Tribe--A

Squall--Childbirth--Girl Bitten by a Snake--Mr.

Gomez--His Tact--A Boa Seizes my Dog--Stories of Boa

Constrictors--One Caught in a Cage--Invasion of a

Dining-room--Capture of a large Boa--Boa and Wild Boar--Native

Accounts--Madman and Snake--Boas used as Rat

Catchers--Floating Islands--A Man found on one--Their

Origin--The Batang Lupar--The Lingga--Alligators

Dangerous--Method of Catching them--Their Size--Hair

Balls--Death of an Acquaintance--The Balau Lads--The

Orang-Utan--A large one killed--Banks of the River--The

Fort at Sakarang--The late Mr. Brereton--Sakarang

Head-hunting--Dayak Stratagem--Peace Ceremonies--Sacred

Jars--Farmhouse--Love of Imitation--_Illustrated

London News_--Women--Men--Poisoning--Workers in

Gold and Brass--Anecdote--Rambi Fruit--Pigs Swimming--The

Bore--Hunting Dogs--Wild Boar--Respect for

Domestic Pig--Two Kinds of Deer--Snaring--Land and

Sea Breezes--The Rejang--Lofty Millanau House--Human

Sacrifices--Swings--Innumerable Mayflies--Kanowit

Village--Kayan Mode of Attack--Kanowit Dayaks--Men

with Tails--Extraordinary Effect of Bathing in the

Nile--Treachery--Bier--Customs on the Death of a

Relative--Curious Dance--Ceremonies on solemnizing

Peace--Wild Tribes--Deadly Effect of the Upas 5

CHAPTER II.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

Ceremonies at the Birth of a Child--Infanticide--Desire for

Children--A Talkative and Sociable People--Great Concord

in Families--Method of Settling Disputes--Marriage

Ceremonies--Pride of Birth--Chastity--Punishment of

Indiscreet Lovers--Bundling and Company-keeping--Love

Anecdotes--Separations--Division of Household

Duties--Flirting--Divorce--Burials--Religion--Belief in a

Supreme Being--Good and Evil Spirits--The

Small-pox--Priests--Some dress as

Women--Mourning--Sacrifices--Human Sacrifices--Unlucky

Omens--Reconciliation--Belief in a Future State--The other

World--Dayaks Litigious--Head-feast--Head-hunting--Its

Origin--Horrible Revenge--Small Inland Expeditions--Cat-like

Warfare--Atrocious Case--Large Inland

Expeditions--War-boats--Edible Clay--Necessity for a

Head--Dayaks very Intelligent--Slaves--Objections to Eating

certain Animals, or Killing others--Change of Names--Degrees

of Affinity within which Marriages may take

place--Sickness--Cholera--Manufactures--Agriculture--Method

of taking Bees’ Nests--Lying

Heaps--Passports--Ordeals--Language 47

CHAPTER III.

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

Unaccountable Panic--Man Overboard--Fishing--Coast

Scenery--Baram Point--Floating Drift--Pretty Coast to

Labuan--Thunder and Lightning Bay--Bar of the Brunei--River

Scenery--The Capital--Little Children in Canoes--Floating

Market--Kayan Attack--The Present Sultan’s

Story--Fire-arms--Devastation of the Interior--Customs

of the Kayans--Upas Tree--View of the Capital--The

Fountains--The Baram--Kayan Stratagem--Wild Cattle--Banks

of the River--Gading Hill--Ivory--Elephants on

North-east Coast--Hunting--Startling Appearance--Town

of Langusin--Salutes--First Interview--Graves--Wandering

Kanowits--Appearance of the Kayans--Visit

Singauding--Religion--Houses--Huge Slabs--Skulls--Women

tattooed--Mats--Visit the Chiefs--Drinking Chorus--Extempore

Song--Head-hunting--Effect of Spirits--Sacrifice--Ceremony

of Brotherhood--Effect of Newly-cleared

Jungle--War Dance--Firewood--Customs--Origin of

Baram Kayans--Vocabularies--Trade--Birds’ Nests--Destruction

of Wealth--Manners and Customs--Iron--Visit

Edible Birds’ Nest Caves--The Caves--Narrow

Escape--Two Kinds of Swallows--Neat House--Visit of

Singauding--Visit to Si Obong--Her Dress--Hip-lace--Her

Employments--Farewell Visit--Fireworks--Smelting

Iron--Accident--Departure--Kayans Cannibals--Anecdotes--Former

Method of Trading--Unwelcome Visitors 79

CHAPTER IV.

THE LAND DAYAKS.

Visit to the Left-hand Branch of the Sarawak River--Attack

of Peguans--Sarawak River--Capture of English Ship--The

Durian Fruit--Iron-wood Posts--Rapids--Rapid of

the Corpse--Mountains--Village of San Pro--Lovely

Scenery--Head-house--Cave--Upper Cave--Unfortunate

Boast--Pushing up the Rapids--Story of the Datu

Tamanggong--Invulnerable Men--How to become one--Grung

Landing-place--Sibungoh Dayaks--Dayak Canoes--Lovely

Scenery--Uses of the Bambu--Fish--Sharks in the Upper

Waters--Repartee--Pigs Swimming--Farmhouses in

Trees--Floods--Suspension Bridges--Chinese Traders--Dress of

Land Dayaks--System of Forced Trade--Interesting Tribe--Story of

the Murder of Pa Mua--The Trial--Painful Scene--Delightful

Bathing--Passing the Rapids--Walk to Grung--Dayak

Paths--Village of Grung--Warm Reception--Ceremonies--Lingua

Franca--Peculiar Medicine--Prayer--Sacred Dance--Sprinkling

Blood--Effect of former System of Government--Language 125

CHAPTER V.

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.--THEIR SOCIAL LIFE.

Madame Pfeiffer--Chinese Village--Chinese

Maidens--Sirambau--Ascent of the Mountain--Difficult

Climbing--Forests of Fruit Trees--Scenery--Sirambau

Village--Houses--The “Look-out”--Scenery--Head-houses--Orang

Kaya Mita--His modest Request--Sir James Brooke’s

Cottage--Natural Bath-house--Chinese Gold Workings--Tapang

Trees--Social Life of the Land Dayaks--Ceremonies at

a Birth--Courtship--Betrothment--Marriage--Burial--Graves--The

Sexton--Funeral Feast--Children--Female

Chastity--Divorces--Cause of Separations--Anecdote 152

CHAPTER VI.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS--_Continued_.

Religion--Belief in Supreme Being--Traces of

Hinduism--Sacrifices--Pamali or Interdict--Mr. Chalmers’s

Account of the Dayak Religion--A Future State--Spirits by

Nature--Ghosts of Departed Men--Transformations--Catching

the Soul--Conversion of the Priest to Christianity--Story--Other

Ghosts--Custom of Pamali, or Taboo--Sacrifices--Things

and Actions Interdicted--Not to Eat Horned Animals--Reasons for

not Eating Venison--Of Snakes--The Living Principle--Causes of

Sickness--Spirits Blinding the Eyes of Men--Incantations to

Propitiate or Foil the Spirits of Evil--Catching the Soul--Feasts

and Incantations connected with Farming Operations--The

Blessing of the Seed--The Feast of First Fruits--Securing

the Soul of the Rice--Exciting Night Scene--The Harvest

Home--Singular Ceremony--Head Feasts--Offering the Drinking

Cup--Minor Ceremonies--Images--Dreams--Love--Journeys

of the Soul--Warnings in Sleep--Magic

Stones--Anecdote--Ordeals--Omens--Birds of Omen--Method

of Consulting them--Beneficial Effects of the Head

Feasts--Languages of the Land Dayaks--Deer--The

Sibuyaus free from Prejudice--Story of the Cobra de

Capella--Names--Change of Name--Prohibited Degrees of

Affinity--Heights--Medical Knowledge--Priests and

Priestesses--Origin of the latter--Their

Practices--Manufactures--Agriculture--Story of the Origin

of Rice--The Pleiades 168

CHAPTER VII.

THE SAMARAHAN RIVER AND THE CAVES OF SIRIH.

A Storm--The Musquito Passage--The Samarahan--Rich

Soil--The Malays--The Dayaks--The Malay Chief--The

Sibuyau Village--A Pretty Girl--Dragons’ Heads--Climbing

Pole--Drinking--“The Sibuyaus get no Headaches”--Force

repelled by Force--Gardens--Left-hand Branch--Difficult

Path--Hill of Munggu Babi--Former Insecurity--The

Village--Welcome--Deer Plentiful--Walk to

the Sirih Caves--A Skeleton--Illustrative Story--Method

of Governing--Torches--Enter the Recesses of the Cave--Small

Chambers--Unpleasant Walking--Confined Passage--The

Birds’ Nests’ Chamber--Method of Gathering them--Curious

Scene--The Cloudy Cave--Wine of the Tampui

Fruit--Blandishments--Drinking--Dancing--Bukars

Hairy--Scenery--Walk--“The Sibuyaus do get

Headaches”--Lanchang--Rival Chiefs--Ancient Disputes--Deer

Shooting--Wanton Destruction of Fruit Trees--Choice

of an Orang Kaya--Return to Boat--The Right-hand

Branch--The San Poks--Hot Spring--Tradition--Hindu

Relics--The Female Principle--The Stone

Bull--Superstition--Story 205

CHAPTER VIII.

THE MOUNTAIN OF KINA BALU.

FIRST EXPEDITION.

First Ascent by Mr. Low--Want of Shoes--Set Sail for the

Tampasuk--Beautiful Scenery--The Abai--Manufacture

of Nipa Salt--Uses of the Nipa Palm--A Lanun Chief--Baju

Saddle--Baju a Non-walker--Our ride to the Tampasuk--Gigantic

Mango Trees--The Datu’s House--Its Arrangements--The Datu and

his People--Piratical Expedition--A Bride put up to

Auction--The Bajus--Mixed Breeds--Quarrels with the

Lanuns--Effect of Stealing Ida’an Children--Fable of the Horse

and his Rider--Amount of Fighting Men--Freedom of the

Women--Killing the Fatted Calf--Beautiful Prospect--A new

Gardinia--Pony Travelling--Difficulty of procuring Useful

Men--Start--An Extensive Prospect--Cocoa-nuts and

their Milk--A View of Kina Balu--Granite Débris--Our

Guides--Natives Ploughing--Our Hut--Division of

Land--Ginambur--Neatest Village-house in the Country--Its

Inhabitants--Tatooing--Curiosity--Blistered Feet--Batong--Granite

Boulders--Fording--Fish-traps--Tambatuan--Robbing

a Hive--Search for the Youth-restoring

Tree--Our Motives--Appearance of the Summit of Kina

Balu--A long Story--Swimming the River--Koung--Palms

not plentiful--Lanun Cloth--Cotton--Nominal Wars--The

Kiladi--Attempt to Levy Black-mail at the Village

of Labang Labang--Resistance--Reasons for demanding

it--Bamboo flat-roofed Huts--Ingenious Contrivance--Kiau--Dirty

Tribe--Recognition of Voice--A Quarrel--Breaking the

Barometer--Opposition to the Ascent of Kina Balu--Harmless

Demonstration--Thieves--Mr. Low unable to Walk--Continue the

Expedition alone--Cascade--Prayers to the Spirit of the

Mountain--Flowers and Plants--Beautiful

Rhododendrons--Cave--Unskilful Use of the Blow-pipe--Cold--Ascent

to the Summit--Granite Face--Low’s Gully--Noble Terrace--Southern

Peak--Effect of the Air--The Craggy Summit--Distant

Mountain--Dangerous Slopes--Ghostly

Inhabitants--Mist--Superstitions--Collecting

Plants--Descent--Noble Landscape--Difficult

Path--Exhaustion--Mr. Low not Recovered--Disagreeable

Villagers--Recovering the Brass

Wire--Clothing--Distrust--A lively Scene--Our Men

behave well--Return on Rafts to the Datu’s House 230

CHAPTER IX.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

Cholera in Brunei--Start from Labuan--Coal Seams--View

of Tanjong Kubong--Method of working the Coal--Red

Land--Method of cultivating Pepper--Wild Cattle--The

Pinnace--Kimanis Bay--Inland Passage--Kimanis River--Cassia--Trade

in it stopped--Smooth River--My first

View of Kina Balu--Story of the Death of Pangeran

Usup--Anchor--Papar--A Squall--Reach Gaya Bay--Noble

Harbour--Pangeran Madoud--My first Visits to him--Method of making

Salt--Village of Menggatal--Ida’an--His Fear of them--Roman

Catholic Mission--Cholera--Mengkabong--Manilla

Captives--The Salt-water Lake--Head-quarters of the Bajus--Their

Enterprise--Find Stranded Vessels--Tripod Masts--Balignini

Pirates--Their Haunts--Spanish Attack--Great

Slaughter--Savage-looking Men--Great Tree--Unreasoning

Retaliation--Energy of M. Cuarteron--Lawlessness of the

Bajus--Pangeran Duroup, the Governor--Anecdote of a drifting

Canoe--Inhospitable Custom--Origin of the Bajus--Welcome

by Pangeran Sirail--Love of Whiskey overcomes

Prejudice--Night Weeping--A Market--The Datu of

Tamparuli--The Pangeran’s Enthusiasm--Path to the

Tawaran--Fine Scene--Fruit Groves--Neat Gardens--The

Tawaran--Sacred Jars--The Talking Jar--Attempted

Explanation--Efficacy of the Water--Carletti’s Account--Fabulous

Value--The Loveliest Girl in Borneo--No Rice--Advance to

Bawang--Our Guides--Steep Hill--Extensive View--Si

Nilau--Unceremonious Entry into a House--The Nilau

Tribe--Kalawat Village--Tiring Walk--Desertion of a

Negro--Numerous Villages--Bungol Village Large--Deceived by the

Guide--Fatiguing Walk--Koung

Village--Black Mail--Explanation--Friendly Relations

established--Labang Labang Village--Change of

Treatment--Kiau Village--Warm Reception--Houses--No

Rice--Confidence 280

CHAPTER X.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU--_Continued_.

Return of the Men for Rice--Readiness to assist us--New

Kinds of Pitcher Plants--The Valley of Pinokok--Beautiful

Nepenthes--Kina Taki--Description of the _Nepenthes

Rajah_--Rocks Coated with Iron--Steep Strata--The

Magnolia--Magnificent Sunset Scene--Fine Soil--Talk

about the Lake--Change of Fashions--Effect of Example--Rapid

Tailoring--Language the same among Ida’an,

Dusun, and Bisaya--Reports--Start for Marei Parei--The

Fop Kamá--Prepare Night Lodgings--Fragrant Bed--Stunted

Vegetation--Appearance of Precipices--Dr.

Hooker--Botanical Descriptions--_Nepenthes Rajah_--Manner

of Growing--Great Size--Used as a Bucket--

Drowned Rat--_Nepenthes Edwardsiana_--An Account of

it--Beautiful Plants--Botanical Description of _Nepenthes

Edwardsiana_--Extensive Prospects--Peaked Hill of Saduk

Saduk--Noble Buttress--Situation for Barracks--Nourishing

Food--Deep Valleys--Familiar Intercourse with the

Villagers--Turning the Laugh--Dirty Faces--Looking-glasses--Their

Effect--Return of our Followers--Start for

the Mountain--Rough Cultivation--The Mountain Rat used

as Food--Our Old Guides--Difficult Walking--Scarlet

Rhododendron--Encamp--Double Sunset--_Nepenthes

Lowii_--Botanical Description--_Nepenthes Villosa_--Botanical

Description--Extensive View of the Interior of

Borneo--The Lake--The Cave--Ascend to the Summit--Its

Extent and Peculiarities--Distant Views--North-western

Peak--Severe Storm--Injured Barometer--Useless

Thermometers--Dangerous Descent--Accidents--Quartz

in Crevices--Clean and Pleasant Girls--Friendly

Parting--Ida’an Sacrifices--Return by Koung--Kalawat

and Nilu--Death of Sahat--A Thief--Cholera--Incantations

and Method of Treatment--Arrival at Gantisan--Fine

Wharf--The Pangeran--Bad Weather--Heavy Squall--Little

Rice to be had--Sail--Anchor at Gaya Island--Curious

Stones--Fish--Description of a magnificent Kind--Poisonous

Fins--Set Sail--Awkward Position--Water-spout--Admiralty

Charts--Names require Correcting--Serious

Mistake--Among the Shoals--Fearful Squall--Falling

Stars and Brilliant Meteor--Arrival at Labuan 314

CHAPTER XI.

THE PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE DISTRICTS LYING

BETWEEN GAYA BAY AND THE TAMPASUK RIVER; WITH A GEOGRAPHICAL

SKETCH OF MALUDU BAY AND THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF BORNEO.

The Coast Line--The Rivers--The Bays--Gaya Bay--Abai--Character

of Interior Country--Plains--Hills--Kina Balu--First Ascent by

Mr. Low--Description of Summit--The Peaks--The Northern

Ranges--Steep Granite Slopes--The Spurs--The Main Spur--Interior

Country--Distant Mountains--Plain--Villages--The Lake--Vegetation

on Kina Balu--The Rivers--The Ananam--The Kabatuan--The

Mengkabong--The Tawaran--The Abai--The Tampasuk--Its

Interior--Political Geography--Inhabitants--The

Lanuns--The Bajus--Mahomedans--Appearance--Their

Women--Their Houses--Love of Cockfighting--Fine Breed of

Fowls--Other Inhabitants--The Ida’an--Their Houses--Their

Women--Tattooing--Comfortable House--Method of Government--No

Wars--Aborigines

Honest--Exceptions--Agriculture--Ploughing--Remnant of Chinese

Civilization--Tobacco--Cotton--Good Soil--Amount of

Population--Numerous and Extensive

Villages--The Tampasuk--The Tawaran--Mengkabong--Other

Districts--Enumeration--Manufactures--Lanun

Cloths--Trade--Difficult

Travelling--Languages--Geology--Sandstone--Greenstone--Climate

of Kina Balu temperate--Map--Addition--Maludu Bay--Western

Point--Western Shore--Mountains--Head of Bay--Population--Accounts

compared--Bengkoka--Minerals--Eastern

Point--Banguey--Difficult Navigation--Small

Rivers and Bays--Paitan--Sugut--Low Coast--Labuk

Bay--High Land--Benggaya--Labuk--Sandakan--Story

of the Atas Man--Kina Batangan--Cape

Unsang--Tungku--Population--The Ida’an--The Mahomedans 356

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

I. Kina Balu from the Lower Tampasuk _Frontispiece_

II. The Sea Dayaks _To face page_ 5

III. City of Brunei. Sunset „ 89

IV. The Land Dayaks „ 125

V. View from near the Rajah’s Cottage „ 156

VI. Nepenthes Rajah „ 317

VII. Kina Balu from the Pinokok Valley „ 318

VIII. Nepenthes Edwardsiana „ 327

IX. Nepenthes Lowii „ 336

X. Nepenthes Villosa „ 337

MAPS.

I. Map of North-West Coast of Borneo _To face page_ 1

II. Map of Districts near Kina Balu „ 230

ERRATA.

Page 317, line 9, _for_ “four,” _read_ “fourteen.”

„ „ 17, _for_ “was,” _read_ “that of the others is.”

[Illustration:

_London. Day & Son, Lith^{rs}. to the Queen_]

LIFE IN THE

FORESTS OF THE FAR EAST.

INTRODUCTION.

The wild tribes of BORNEO, and the not less wild interior of

the country, are scarcely known to European readers, as no one who has

travelled in the Island during the last fourteen years has given his

impressions to the public.

My official position afforded me many facilities for gratifying my

fondness for exploring new countries, and traversing more of the north

of Borneo than any previous traveller, besides enabling me to gain more

intimate and varied experience of the inhabitants.

In the following pages I have treated of the tribes in groups, and have

endeavoured to give an individual interest to each; while, to preserve

the freshness of my first impressions, I have copied my journal written

at the time, only correcting such errors as are inseparable from

first observations, and comparing them with the result of subsequent

experience.

Preserving the natural order of travel, I commence with an account of

my expeditions among the tribes living in the neighbourhood of Sarawak;

then follow narratives of two ascents of the great mountain of Kina

Balu, the loftiest mountain of insular Asia, of which I have given a

full account, as it is a part of Borneo but little known, and rendered

still more curious by the traces we find of former Chinese intercourse

with this part of the island; my personal narrative being concluded by

the journal of a distant expedition I made to explore the interior of

the country lying to the south and south-east of Brunei, the capital of

Borneo Proper.

The starting-point of the first journeys was Kuching, the capital of

Sarawak, where I was stationed in the acting appointment of H. M.’s

Commissioner in Borneo. I lived so many years among the Dayaks, that

the information I give of their mode of life may be relied on; and I

have received so much assistance from others better acquainted with

individual tribes, that I can place before the public, with great

confidence in the correctness of detail, the chapters on the Manners

and Customs of these people. I persuade myself that the more the

natives of Borneo are studied, the more lively will be the interest

felt in them. The energy displayed by the Sea Dayaks, gives much hope

of their advancement in civilization at a future time; and a few years

of quiet and steady government would produce a great change in their

condition. The Land Dayaks scarcely display the same aptitude for

improvement, but patience may do much with them also; their modes of

thought, their customs, and the traces of Hinduism in their religion,

render them a very singular and interesting people.

Of the Kayans we know less; and I have only been able to give an

account of one journey I made among them, very slightly corrected

by subsequent experience. They are a strange, warlike race, who are

destined greatly to influence the surrounding tribes. They have already

penetrated to within thirty miles of Brunei, the capital, spreading

desolation in their path.

For ten years, every time I had entered the bay near the Brunei river,

I had speculated on what kind of country and people lay beyond the

distant ranges of mountains that, on a clear day, appeared to extend,

one behind the other, as far as the eye could reach. I constantly made

inquiries, but never could find even a Malay who had gone more than

a few days’ journey up the Limbang, the largest river which falls

into the bay. In 1856, I took up my permanent residence in Brunei as

Consul-General, and, after many minor attempts, I was at last enabled

to organize an expedition to penetrate into the interior, and, hoping

it might prove interesting, every evening, with but two exceptions,

I wrote in my journal an account of the day’s proceedings. I have

printed it, as far as possible, in the same words in which it was

originally composed. As this country was never before visited by Malay

or European, I hope there will be found in my narrative some fresh and

interesting matter.

The Malays being a people about whom much has been written, I have

refrained from dwelling on their characteristics.

I conclude with a sketch of the present condition of Brunei and

Sarawak, of the Chinese settlers, and of the two missions which have

been sent to Borneo, one Roman Catholic, the other Protestant.

It was with much regret that I gave up the idea of penetrating to the

opposite side of Borneo, starting from the capital, and crossing the

island to Kotei or Baluñg-an, on the eastern coast; but the expense

would have been too great: otherwise, with my previous experience of

Borneo travelling, I should have had no hesitation in attempting the

expedition.

Having thus briefly indicated the plan of the work, I will commence

with an account of my journeys among the Sea Dayaks.

[Illustration:

G. M^c Culloch, Lith. Day & Son, Lith^{rs}. to the Queen

Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65 Cornhill, London.

THE SEA DAYAKS.]

CHAPTER I.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

Habitat of the Sea Dayaks--Start for the Lundu--Inland

Passages--Fat Venison--The Lundu--Long Village

House--Chinese Gardens--Picturesque Waterfall--The Lundu

Dayaks--Their Village--Gradual Extinction of the Tribe--A

Squall--Childbirth--Girl Bitten by a Snake--Mr. Gomez--His

Tact--A Boa Seizes my Dog--Stories of Boa Constrictors--One

Caught in a Cage--Invasion of a Dining-room--Capture of

a large Boa--Boa and Wild Boar--Native Accounts--Madman

and Snake--Boas used as Rat Catchers--Floating Islands--A

Man Found on one--Their Origin--The Batang Lupar--The

Lingga--Alligators Dangerous--Method of Catching them--Their

Size--Hair Balls--Death of an Acquaintance--The Balau

Lads--The Orang-Utan--A large one killed--Banks of the

River--The Fort at Sakarang--The late Mr. Brereton--Sakarang

Head-hunting--Dayak Stratagem--Peace Ceremonies--Sacred

Jars--Farmhouse--Love of Imitation--_Illustrated London

News_--Women--Men--Poisoning--Workers in Gold and

Brass--Anecdote--Rambi Fruit--Pigs Swimming--The Bore--Hunting

Dogs--Wild Boar--Respect for Domestic Pig--Two kinds of

Deer--Snaring--Land and Sea Breezes--The Rejang--Lofty

Millanau House--Human Sacrifices--Swings--Innumerable

Mayflies--Kanowit Village--Kayan Mode of Attack--Kanowit

Dayaks--Men with Tails--Extraordinary Effect of Bathing

in the Nile--Treachery--Bier--Customs on the Death of a

Relative--Curious Dance--Ceremonies on Solemnizing Peace--Wild

Tribes--Deadly Effect of the Upas.

The Sea Dayaks are so called from their familiarity with the sea,

though many live as far inland as any of the other aborigines. They

inhabit the districts lying to the eastward of Sadong, and extend

along the coast to the great river of Rejang. They are the most

numerous and warlike of the Dayaks; and the most powerful of their

sections formerly indulged in the exciting pastime of piracy and

head-hunting. The next river to the east of Sadong is the Sibuyau,

whose inhabitants were scattered and had fled to the districts around

Sarawak.

The first village of these Sibuyaus, to whom we paid a long visit,

was situated on the Lundu, the most westerly river in the Sarawak

territories.

We started in March; and the north-east monsoon still blowing

occasionally, made it necessary to watch our time for venturing to sea,

as the waves would soon have swamped our long native prahu.

From the Santubong entrance of the Sarawak River to the Lundu, there

are passages which run behind the jungle that skirts the sea-shore,

enabling canoes to hold communication between those places thirty miles

apart without venturing to sea; but our boat being fifty feet long was

unable to pass at one place, so during a lull in the weather we pushed

out, calling at the little island of Sampadien, where Mr. Crookshank

was preparing the ground for a cocoa-nut plantation. He brought us down

a fine haunch of venison, covered with a layer of fat, a very rare

thing in Borneo, where the deer generally are destitute of that sign of

good condition. He had employed himself the first few days in clearing

the island of game, and his dogs had on the previous evening been

fortunate enough to bring this fine animal to bay, when he speared it

with his own hands.

Pushing off quickly, as the sea breeze was blowing in strongly, we

sailed and pulled away for the river of Sampadien, and after a narrow

escape from not hitting the right channel, found ourselves clear of the

breakers and safe in still water. An inland passage then took us to the

Lundu.

The banks of this river are very flat and the plains extend for a

considerable distance, but the scene is redeemed from tameness by the

mountains of Gading and Poè. There is a flourishing appearance about

the place; all were engaged in some occupation. We were received by

Kalong, the Orang Kaya’s eldest son, the chief himself being absent

collecting the fruit of the mangkawan, from which a good vegetable oil

is extracted: the natives use it for candles and for cookery, but it is

also exported in quantities to Europe.

The landing-place is very picturesque, being overshadowed by a grove

of magnificent palms, under which were drawn up the war-boats of the

tribe. A passage raised on posts three feet above the ground, led to

the great village-house, which extended far on either side, and was

then hidden among the fruit-trees. It was the longest I had seen,

measuring 534 feet, and contained nearly five hundred people. There are

various lesser houses about of Malays and Dayaks, forming a population

of about a thousand. The Orang Kaya lived in the largest house, which

was certainly a remarkably fine one: the broad verandah, or common

room, stretched uninterruptedly the whole length, and afforded ample

space for the occupations of the tribe. The divisions appropriated to

each family were comparatively large, and all had an air of comfort;

while in front of the house were bamboo platforms, on which the rice

is dried and beaten out.

No village in Sarawak is blessed with greater prosperity than this. The

old Orang Kaya, being of a most determined character, has reversed the

usual order of things; and the Malays, instead of being the governors,

are the governed. Having for years been little exposed to exactions,

they are flourishing and exhibit an air of great contentment.

They made us comfortable in the long public room, and placed benches

around a table for our accommodation. I confess to prefer the clean

matted floor. After the first burst of curiosity was over, the people

went on with their usual avocations, and did not make themselves

uncomfortable about us.

We walked in the evening among the Chinese gardens extending over

about a hundred acres of ground, and neatly planted with various kinds

of vegetables, among which beans and sweet potatoes appeared most

numerous. There were here about two hundred Chinese, most of them

but lately arrived, so that the cultivated ground was continually

increasing. A large market was found for their sweet potatoes among the

sago growers and workers of the rivers to the north.

Next day we started for a waterfall, which we were told was to be found

on the sides of the Gading mountain, a few miles below the village.

After leaving our boat, the path lay through a jungle of fruit-trees;

but as we ascended the spur of the mountain these ceased. In about

an hour we came to a very deep ravine, where the thundering noise of

falling water gave notice of the presence of a cataract. This is by

far the finest I have yet seen: the stream, tumbling down the sides

of the mountain, forms a succession of noble falls: the first we saw

dashed in broken masses over the rocks above, and then descended like

a huge pillar of foam into a deep, gloomy basin, while on either side

of it rose smooth rocks, crowned with lofty trees, and dense underwood,

that threw their dark shadows into the pool.

A slight detour brought us to a spot above the cascade, and then we

could perceive that it was but the first of a succession. One view,

where six hundred feet of fall was at once visible, is extremely fine:

the water now gliding over the smoothest granite rock, then broken

into foam by numerous obstructions, then tumbling in masses into

deep basins,--the deafening roar, the noble trees rising amid the

surrounding crags, the deep verdure, the brightness of the tropical

sun, reflected from burning polished surfaces, then deep shade and

cooling air. This varied scene was indeed worth a visit. We ascended to

the top of the mountain, though warned of the danger we incurred from a

ferocious dragon which guarded the summit.

The Sibuyaus are only interlopers in the Lundu, as there is a tribe,

the original inhabitants of the country, who still live here. One day

we visited them.

After pulling a few miles up the river we reached a landing place,

where the chief of the true Lundus was waiting to guide us to his

village. For six or seven miles our path lay through the jungle over

undulating ground, and we found the houses situated at the commencement

of a great valley lying between the mountains of Poè and Gading. The

soil is here excellent, but now little of it is tilled, though there

are thousands of acres around that might support an immense population.

Most of it, however, had, in former times, been cleared, as we saw but

very little old forest.

The Lundu houses, on the top of a low hill, are but few in number, neat

and new. The tribe, however, has fallen; they fear there is a curse

on them. A thousand families, they say, once cultivated this valley,

but now they are reduced to ten, not by the ravages of war, but by

diseases sent by the spirits. They complain bitterly that they have

no families, that their women are not fertile; indeed, there were but

three or four children in the whole place. The men were fine-looking,

and the women well favoured and healthy--remarkably clean and free from

disease. We could only account for their decreasing numbers by their

constant intermarriages: we advised them to seek husbands and wives

among the neighbouring tribes, but this is difficult. Their village is

a well-drained, airy spot.

On our return, one of those sudden squalls came on that are so frequent

in Borneo: we were among the decayed trees that still stood on the site

of an old farm. As a heavier gust swept from the hills, the half-rotten

timber tottered and fell with a crash around us, rendering our walk

extremely dangerous. I was not sorry, therefore, to find myself in

the boat on the broad river. The banks are tolerably well cleared

by Chinese, Malays, Millanaus, and Dayaks. A few months after this,

a sudden squall struck the British brig “Amelia,” and capsized her:

ninety-three went down with her, but twenty escaped in the jolly-boat.

In the evening Kalong’s wife was taken in the pains of childbirth. The

Rev. F. Dougall, now Bishop of Labuan, offered his medical assistance,

as it was evident the case was a serious one, but they preferred

following their own customs. The child died, and we left the mother

very ill.

A young girl, bitten by a snake, was brought in; the wound was rubbed

with a piece of deer’s horn, she became drowsy and slept for several

hours, but in the morning she was about her usual occupations.

A year after this visit, the Rev. W. Gomez was established there, to

endeavour to convert the Sibuyau Dayaks. At first, he did not press

religious instruction upon them, but opened a school. I mention this

circumstance on account of the very remarkable tact he must have

exercised to induce the children to attend as they did. His system of

punishment was admirable, but difficult to be followed with English

boys. He merely refused to hear the offending child’s lesson, and told

him to go home. A friend, who often watched the progress of the school,

has told me that instead of going home the little fellows would sob

and cry and remain in a quiet part of the school till they thought Mr.

Gomez had relented. They would rarely return to their parents, if it

could be avoided, before their lessons were said.

On our journey along the coast, while walking at the edge of the

jungle, a favourite dog of mine was seized by a boa-constrictor,

perhaps twelve feet in length. Fortunately, Captain Brooke was near,

and sent a charge of shot into the reptile, which then let go its hold

and made off. The dog had a wound on the side of his neck.

The natives tell many stories of these monstrous snakes; but rejecting

the testimony of those who say they have seen them so large as to

mistake them for trees, I will mention three cases where the animals

were measured. A boa one night got into a closely-latticed place under

a Dayak house, and finding it could not drag away a pig which it had

killed there, on account of the wooden bars, swallowed the beast on the

spot. In the morning the owner was astonished to find the new occupant

of the sty; but as the reptile was gorged, he had no difficulty in

destroying it. Its body was brought to Sarawak and measured by Mr.

Ruppell, when it was found to be nineteen feet in length.

The next was killed in Labuan, and without head and a large portion

of its neck, it measured above twenty feet. I heard the story told

how the reptile was secured. One day, a dog belonging to Mr. Coulson

disappeared, and a servant averred that it was taken by an enormous

snake. The following week, as the same servant was laying the cloth for

dinner, he saw, to his horror, a huge snake dart at a dog, that was

quietly dozing in the verandah, and carry it off. The master, alarmed

at the cries of his follower, rushed out, and, on hearing the cause,

gave chase, spear in hand, followed by all his household. They tracked

the reptile to his lair, and found the dead dog opposite a hole in

a hollow tree; placing a man with a drawn sword to watch there, Mr.

Coulson thrust a spear into an upper hole, and struck the boa, which,

feeling the wound, put its head out of the entrance, and instantly lost

it by a blow from the Malay. I believe that when it was drawn from its

hiding-place it measured about twenty-four feet; the before-mentioned

length was taken by me from the mutilated skin.

Mr. Coulson was also fortunate enough to secure the largest boa that

has ever been obtained by a European in the north-west part of Borneo.

In March, 1859, a Malay, his wife, and child, accompanied by a little

dog, were walking from the Eastern Archipelago Company’s house, at the

entrance of the Brunei towards the sea-beach. The path was narrow; the

little dog trotted on first, followed by the others in Indian file.

Just as they reached the shore, a boa darted on the dog and dragged

him into the bushes. The Malays fled back to the house, where they

found Mr. Coulson, who, on hearing of the great size of the serpent,

determined to attempt the capture of its skin. He loaded a Minié rifle,

and requested three English companions who happened to be there to

accompany him with drawn swords. He made them promise to follow his

directions. His intention was to walk up to within a fathom of the

boa, and then shoot him through the head; if he were seized, then his

companions were to rush in with their swords, but not before, as he

wished to preserve the skin uninjured. They found the reptile on the

same spot where it had killed the dog, that still lay partly encoiled:

on the approach of the party, it raised its head, and made slight angry

darts towards them, but still keeping hold of its prey. Mr. Coulson

coolly approached to within five feet of the animal, which kept

raising and depressing its head, and, seizing a favourable opportunity,

fired; the ball passed through its brain and it lay dead at his feet--a

prize worthily gained. They raised the boa up while still making strong

muscular movements, and carried it back to the house; there they

measured it--it was twenty-six feet two inches. Mr. Coulson immediately

skinned it, and, shortly after, brought it up to the consulate. When I

measured it, it had lost two inches, and was exactly twenty-six feet in

length.

These boas must have occasionally desperate struggles with the wild

pigs. I one day came upon a spot where the ground was torn up for a

circle of eight or nine feet, and the branches around were broken. The

boar, however, had evidently succumbed, as we could trace with ease the

course it had been dragged through the jungle. We followed a little

distance, but evidently no one was very anxious in pursuit. I knew the

animal killed on this occasion to be a boar, from finding his broken

tusk half-buried in the ground.

I may mention one or two incidents which I heard from very trustworthy

Malays. Abang Hassan was working in the woods at the Santubong entrance

of the Sarawak river, when he came upon a huge boa, completely torpid;

it had swallowed one of the large deer, whose horns, he said, could

be distinctly traced under the reptile’s skin. He cut it open and

found that the deer was still perfectly fresh. The boa measured about

nineteen feet.

Abang Buyong, a man whose word is trusted by all the Europeans who know

him, told us that one day he was walking through the jungle with a

drawn sword, looking for rattans, when he was suddenly seized by the

leg; he instinctively cut at the animal, and fortunate for him that he

was so quick, as he had struck off the head of a huge boa before it

had time to wind its coils around him. He said he carefully measured

him, and it was seven Malay fathoms long--that is, from thirty-five to

thirty-seven feet. Dozens of other stories rise to my memory, but they

were told me by men in whom I have not equal confidence. The largest I

have myself killed was fourteen feet.

I will mention an incident that took place in July, 1861, during the

Sarawak expedition to the Muka river. A Malay, subject to fits of

delirium, sprang up suddenly one day in a boat, drew a sword, killed

two and wounded several men; he then dashed overboard, and fled into

the jungle. Ten days after, he was found wandering starving on the

beach. He appeared quite in his senses, and perfectly unaware of the

act he had committed. He said, one night that threatened heavy rain,

he crawled into a hollow tree to sleep. He was suddenly awakened by

a choking sensation in his throat. He instinctively put up both his

hands, and tore away what had seized him; it was a huge boa, which

in the confined space could not coil around him. The Malay quickly

got out of the serpent’s lair and fled, leaving his sword behind him.

When found, there were the marks of the fangs on the sides of the torn

wound, which was festering. The last news I heard of the man was that

he was expected to die.

Many persons are very partial to small boas, as wherever they take up

their abode all rats disappear; therefore they are seldom disturbed

when found in granaries or the roofs of houses, though the reptile has

as great a partiality for eggs as for vermin. Our servants killed one,

and found fourteen eggs in its stomach.

Passing, on our way to the great tribes of Sea Dayaks, through Sarawak,

we picked up our home letters and newspapers, and transferred our

baggage to a larger prahu, very comfortably fitted up, with a spacious

cabin in the centre.

At Muaratabas we joined the _Jolly Bachelor_ pinnace, sending our

boat on in shore. Setting sail with a fair breeze, we soon reached

the entrance of the Batang Lupar, which is marked by two conical

hills,--one the island of Trisauh, in the centre of the river, the

other on the right bank. During our passage we observed some of those

floating islands which wander over the face of the sea, at the mercy of

wind and wave. I remember once that the signalman gave notice that a

three-masted vessel was ahead. We all fixed our telescopes on her, as

at sea the slightest incident awakens interest: her masts appeared to

rake in an extraordinary manner. As we steamed towards her our mistake

was soon discovered; it was a floating island, with unusually tall nipa

palms upon it, that were bending gracefully before the breeze.

On one occasion a man was found at sea making one of these his

resting-place. Doubtless he abandoned his island home cheerfully,

though he fell into the hands of enemies. He told us that his pirate

companions, in hurried flight, had left him on the bank of a hostile

river, and so seeing a diminutive island floating to the sea, he swam

off and got upon it, and he had been there many days, living upon the

fruit he had found on the palm stems.

The origin of the islands is this: The stream occasionally wears away

the steep bank under the closely united roots of the nipa, and some

sudden flood, pressing with unusual force on the loosened earth, tears

away a large portion of the shore, which floats to the mouth of the

river to be carried by the tides and currents far out to sea. Some

fifteen miles off Baram Point, mariners tell of a great collection of

floating trees and sea-weed, that forms an almost impassable barrier to

ships in a light breeze. Some action of the currents appears to cause

this assemblage of floating timber always to keep near one spot, and to

move with a gyrating motion.

The Batang Lupar is in breadth from two to three miles, and

occasionally more: we never had a cast of less than three fathoms on

the bar, and inside it deepens to six. The banks are low, composed

entirely of alluvial soil. Wind and tide soon carried us to our first

night’s resting-place at the mouth of the Lingga river, some twenty

miles from the _embouchure_ of the Batang Lupar. It is small, and

its banks have the usual flat appearance, relieved, however, by some

distant hills and the mountain of Lesong (a mortar), from a fancied

resemblance to that article to be seen in every Malay house.

We found our boat here, together with a large force from Sarawak. I had

taken advantage of the chance to accompany Captain Brooke on one of

his tours through the Sarawak territories. This was to induce all the

branches of the Sea Dayaks to make peace with each other, and with the

towns of the coast, some of which they had so long harried.

While business detains the force at the mouth of the Lingga, I will

describe Banting, the chief town of the Balau Dayaks, about ten miles

up that stream. There are here about thirty long village houses, half

at the foot of a low hill, the others scattered on its face, completely

embowered in fruit-trees. From the spot where Mr. Chambers, the

missionary, has built his house, there is a lovely view,--more lovely

to those who have long been accustomed to jungle than to any others.

For here we have the Lingga river meandering among what appear to be

extensive green fields, reminding me of our lovely meadows at home. We

must not, however, examine them too closely, or I fear they will be

found swamps of rushes and gigantic grass. Still the land is not the

less valuable, being admirably adapted in its present state for the

best rice cultivation.

The Lingga river is famous for its alligators, which are both large and

fierce; but, from superstitions to which I shall afterwards refer, the

natives seldom destroy them. In Sarawak there is no such prejudice. It

is a well-known fact, that no alligator will take a bait that is in any

way fixed to the shore. The usual mode of catching them is to fasten a

dog, a cat, or a monkey to a four or five fathom rattan, with an iron

hook or a short stick lightly fastened up the side of the bait. The

rattan is then beaten out into fibre for a fathom, to prevent its being

bitten through by the animal when it has swallowed the tempting morsel.

Near a spot known to be frequented by alligators, the bait, with this

long appendage, is placed on a branch about six feet above high-water

mark. The cries of the bound animal soon attract the reptile; he

springs out of the water and seizes it in his ponderous jaws. The

natives say he is cunning enough to try if it be fastened to the bank;

but the real fact appears to be that the alligator never eats its food

until it is rather high. So that when fastened, finding he cannot take

away his prize to the place where he usually conceals his food, he

naturally lets it go. Gasing, a Dayak chief, saved his life when seized

by an alligator, by laying hold of a post in the water: the animal gave

two or three tugs, but finding its prey immovable, let go.

Two or three days after the bait has been taken, the Malays seek for

the end of the long rattan fastened to it. When found, they give it a

slight pull, which breaks the threads that fasten the stick up the side

of the bait, and it spreads across the alligator’s stomach. They then

haul it towards them. It never appears to struggle, but permits its

captors to bind its legs over its back. Till this is done they speak

to it with the utmost respect, and address it in a soothing voice; but

as soon as it is secured they raise a yell of triumph, and take it in

procession down the river to the landing-place. It is then dragged

ashore amid many expressions of condolence at the pain it must be

suffering from the rough stones; but being safely ashore, their tone is

jeering, as they address it as Rajah, Datu, and grandfather. It then

receives its death at the hands of the public executioner. Its stomach

is afterwards ripped open, to see if it be a man-eater. I have often

seen the buttons of a woman’s jacket, or the tail of a Chinese, taken

out. The alligator always appears to swallow its food whole. Some men

are very expert in catching these reptiles; I remember one Malay, who

came over from the Dutch possessions, capturing thirteen during a few

months, and as the Sarawak Government pay three shillings and sixpence

for every foot the beast measures, the man made a large sum.

Alligators sometimes attain to a very large size. I have never measured

one above seventeen feet six inches, but I saw a well-known animal, the

terror of the Siol branch of the Sarawak, that must have been at least

twenty-four or twenty-five feet long. The natives say the alligator

dies if wounded about the body, as the river-worms get into the injured

part, and prevent its healing; many have been found dying on the banks

from gunshot wounds. In the rivers are occasionally found curious balls

of hair, five or six inches in diameter, that are ejected from these

reptiles’ stomachs,--the indigestible remains of animals captured.

I once lost an acquaintance in Sarawak who was killed by an alligator.

He was seized round the chest by the jaws of an enormous beast that

swam with his prey along the surface of the water. His children, who

had accompanied him to bathe, ran along the banks of the river shouting

to him to push out the animal’s eyes; they say he looked at them, but

that he neither moved nor spoke, paralyzed, as it were, by the grip.

I am very partial to this tribe of Lingga Dayaks; they have always

shown so unmistakable a preference for the English--faithful under

every temptation, and ready at a moment’s warning to back them up with

a force of a thousand men.

The lads, too, have a spirit more akin to English youths than I have

yet seen among the other tribes. I well remember the delight with which

they learnt the games we taught them--joining in prisoner’s base with

readiness, hauling at the rope, and shouting with laughter at French

and English, represented by the names of two Dayak tribes. There is

good material to work on here, and it could not be in better hands than

those of their present missionary, Mr. Chambers. That his teaching has

made any marked difference in their conduct I do not suppose, but he

has influenced them, and his influence is yearly increasing.

It is pleasing to record a little success here, at the Quop, and at

Lundu, or we should have to pronounce the Borneo mission a complete

failure.

The largest orang-utans I have ever heard of are in the Batang Lupar

districts. Mr. Crymble, of Sarawak, saw a very fine one on shore, and

landing, fired and struck him, but the beast dashed away among the

lofty trees; seven times he was shot at, but only the eighth ball took

fatal effect, and he came crashing down, and fell under a heap of twigs

that he had torn in vain endeavours to arrest his descent. The natives

refused to approach him, saying it was a trick--he was hiding to spring

upon them as they approached. Mr. Crymble, however, soon uncovered

him, and measured his length as he lay: it was five feet two inches,

measuring fairly from the head to the heel. The head and arms were

brought in, and we measured them: the face was fifteen inches broad,

including the enormous callosities that stick out on either side; its

length was fourteen inches; round the wrist was twelve inches, and the

upper arm seventeen. I mention this size particularly, as my friend,

Mr. Wallace, who had more opportunities than any one else to study

these animals, never shot one much over four feet, and perhaps may

doubt the existence of larger animals; but he unfortunately sought them

in the Sadong river, where only the smaller species exists.

The Dayaks tell many stories of the male orang-utans in old times

carrying off their young girls, and of the latter becoming pregnant by

them; but they are, perhaps, merely traditions. I have read somewhere

of a huge male carrying off a Dutch girl, who was, however, immediately

rescued by her father and a party of Javanese soldiers, before any

injury beyond fright had occurred to her.

During the time I lived at Sarawak, we had many tame orang-utans; among

others, a half-grown female called Betsy. She was an affectionate,

gentle creature that might have been allowed perfect liberty, had she

not taken too great a liking for the cabbage of the cultivated palms.

When she climbed up one of these, she would commence tearing away the

leaves to get at the coveted morsel, but shaking or striking the tree

with a stick, would induce her to come down. Her cage was large, but

she had a great dislike to being alone, and would follow the men about

whenever she had an opportunity. At night, or when the wind was cold,

she would carefully wrap herself in a blanket or rug, and of course

choose the warmest corner of her cage.

After some months, we procured a very young male, and her delight was

extreme. She seemed to take the greatest care of it; but like most of

the small ones brought in, it soon died.

When I lived in Brunei, a very young male was given me. Not knowing

what to do with it, I handed it over to a family where there were many

children. They were delighted with it, and made it a suit of clothes.

To the trousers it never took kindly; but I have often seen him put

on his own jacket in damp weather, though he was not particular about

having it upside down or not. It was quite gentle and used to be

fondled by the very smallest children.

I never saw but one full-grown orang-utan in the jungle, and he kept

himself well sheltered by a large branch as he peered at us. He might

have shown himself with perfect safety, as I never could bring myself

to shoot at a monkey; but a friend who was collecting specimens saw

an enormous one in a very high tree: he fired ten shots at him with a

revolver, one of which hit him on the leg. As in the case when I saw

the orang-utan, he kept himself well sheltered, but whenever a bullet

glanced on a tree or branch near him, he put out his hand to feel what

had struck the bark. When he found himself wounded, he removed to the

topmost branches, and was quite exposed, but my friend’s guns were left

behind him, and he failed to obtain this specimen.

It is singular that most of the orang-utans die in captivity, from

eating too much raw fruit. Betsy, that was fed principally on cooked

rice, must have lived a twelvemonth with us. I was not in Sarawak when

she died, and do not remember the cause.

On my return, finding that the arrangements were made, we started for

a fort built at the entrance of the Sakarang, which was under the

command of Mr. Brereton, accompanied by the Sarawak forces and the

Balau Dayaks. The real value of the Batang Lupar as a river adapted for

ships ceases shortly after leaving the junction, as sands begin, and

a bore renders the navigation dangerous to the inexperienced; but it

presents a noble expanse of water. As we started after the flood tide

had commenced, the bore had passed on, and only gave notice of its late

presence by a little bubbling in the shallower places.

The banks of the river continue low, with only an occasional rising of

the land; nothing but alluvial plains, formerly the favourite farming

grounds of the Dayaks, then completely deserted, or tenanted only by

pigs and deer; but it was expected that as soon as the peace ceremonies

were over, the natives would not allow this rich soil to remain

uncultivated, and the expectation has been fulfilled, as this abandoned

country was, on my last visit, covered with rice farms, while villages

occupied the banks.

After we had passed Pamutus, the site of the piratical town destroyed

by Sir Henry Keppel, the river narrows, and is not above a hundred

yards broad at the town of Sakarang, built at the confluence of a river

of the same name. The fort was rather an imposing-looking structure,

though built entirely of wood. It was square, with flanking towers,

and its heavy armament completely commanded the river, and rendered it

secure against any Dayak force.

This country was at the time influenced, rather than ruled, by the late

Mr. Brereton, as his real power did not extend beyond the range of

his guns. I never met a man who threw himself more enthusiastically

into a most difficult position, or who, by his imaginative mind and

yet determined will, exercised a greater power over Dayaks by the

superiority of his intellect. A stranger can scarcely realize a more

difficult task than that of endeavouring to rule many thousands of

wild warriors without being backed by physical force; but he did a

great deal, though his exertions were too much for his strength, and

he died a few years after, while engaged in his arduous task. In him

the Sarawak service lost an admirable officer, and we an affectionate

friend.

When we landed at the fort, we found a great crowd assembled to meet

us, among whom were the principal Sakarang chiefs, as Gasing and Gila.

Many were fine-looking men of independent bearing and intelligent

features. There were a few women about, but until the preliminaries of

peace had been settled, they were not encouraged to come into the town.

It was found impossible to inquire into the origin of many of the

quarrels, so Captain Brooke settled the matter by agreeing to give

each party a sacred jar (valued at 8_l._), a spear, and a flag.

This was considered by them as satisfactory, and it was immediately

determined that the next day the formal ceremonies should take place to

ratify the engagement.

There is comparatively little difficulty in putting a stop to the

piratical acts of the Sakarangs, as the fort commands the river; but

it is almost impossible to prevent them head-hunting in the interior,

there being so many unguarded outlets by which the hostile tribes can

assail each other. The Bugau Dayaks--a numerous and powerful tribe,

living on the Kapuas, and tributary to the Dutch--were principally

exposed to their expeditions, and their justifiable retaliations kept

up the hostile feeling.

Whenever a head-hunting party was expected to be on its return, a

strict watch was kept to prevent it passing the fort. One day, at

sunset, a couple of light canoes were seen stealing along the river

bank, but a shot across their bows made them pull back: they dared

not come up to the fort, having three human heads with them. The

sentries were doubled, and Mr. Brereton kept watch himself. About two

hours before dawn, something was seen moving under the opposite bank.

A musket was fired; but as the object continued floating by, it was

thought to be a trunk of a tree; but no sooner had it neared the point

than a yell of derision arose, as the swimming Dayaks sprang into the

boat, and pulled off in high glee up the Sakarang.

To prevent all chance of the hostile tribes of Sakarangs and Balaus

quarrelling before the treaty was concluded, it was arranged that the

latter tribe should remain at the entrance of the Undup, a stream about

two miles below the town, and that we should drop down to that spot

next day.

We found a covered stage erected, and a crowd of nearly a thousand

Balau men around it, and in their long war boats: the Sakarangs came

also in large force, and our mediating party of about five hundred

armed men was there likewise.

Captain Brooke clearly explained the object of the meeting, when the

topic was taken up by the Datu Patinggi of Sarawak, who, with easy

eloquence, briefly touched on the various points in question. The

Dayak chiefs followed; each protested that it was their desire to live

in peace and friendship; they promised to be as brothers and warn each

other of impending dangers. They all appear to have a natural gift of

uttering their sentiments freely without the slightest hesitation.

The ceremony of killing a pig for each tribe followed; it is thought

more fortunate if the animal be severed in two by one stroke of the

parang, half sword, half chopper. Unluckily, the Balau champion struck

inartistically, and but reached half through the animal. The Sakarangs

carefully selected a parang of approved sharpness, a superior one

belonging to Mr. Crookshank, and choosing a Malay skilled in the use

of weapons placed the half-grown pig before him. The whole assembly

watched him with the greatest interest, and when he not only cut the

pig through, but buried the weapon to the hilt in the mud, a slight

shout of derision arose among the Sakarangs at the superior prowess of

their champion. The Balaus, however, took it in good part and joined in

the noise, till about two thousand men were yelling together with all

the power of their lungs.

The sacred jar, the spear, and flag, were now presented to each tribe,

and the assembly, no longer divided, mixed freely together. The Balaus

were invited to come up to the town, and thus was commenced a good

understanding which has continued without interruption to the present

time--about eleven years.

There are many kinds of sacred jars. The best known are the Gusi, the

Rusa, and the Naga, all most probably of Chinese origin. The Gusi,

the most valuable of the three, is of a green colour, about eighteen

inches high, and is, from its medicinal properties, exceedingly sought

after. One fetched at Tawaran the price of four hundred pounds sterling

to be paid in produce; the vendor has for the last ten years been

receiving the price, which, according to his own account, has not yet

been paid, though probably he has received fifty per cent. over the

amount agreed on from his ignorant customer. They are most numerous

in the south of Borneo. The Naga is a jar two feet in height, and

ornamented with Chinese figures of dragons; they are not worth above

seven or eight pounds. While the Rusa is covered with what the native

artist considers a representation of some kind of deer, it is worth

from fifteen to sixteen pounds. An attempt was made to manufacture

an imitation in China, but the Dayaks immediately discovered the

counterfeit.

We pulled up the Sakarang river to visit Gasing in his farmhouse, which

was large, neat, and comfortable; in form and general appearance like

their usual village houses. These Sea Dayaks are a very improvable

people. I have mentioned the tender point of their character as

displayed in Mr. Gomez’s school at Lundu, and another is their love of

imitation. A Sakarang chief noticed a path that was cut and properly

ditched near the fort, and found that in all weathers it was dry, so

he instantly made a similar path from the landing place on the river

to his house, and I was surprised on entering it to see coloured

representations of horses, knights in full armour, and ships drawn

vigorously, but very inartistically, on the plank walls. I found, on

inquiry, he had been given some copies of the _Illustrated London

News_, and had endeavoured to imitate the engravings. He used

charcoal, lime, red ochre, and yellow earth as his materials.

The Sakarang women are, I think, the handsomest among the Dayaks of

Borneo; they have good figures, light and elastic; with well-formed

busts and very interesting, even pretty faces; with skin of so light a

brown as almost to be yellow, yet a very healthy-looking yellow, with

bright dark eyes, and long glistening black hair. The girls are very

fond of using an oil made from the Katioh fruit, which has the scent of

almonds. Their dress is not unbecoming, petticoats reaching from below

the waist to the knees, and jackets ornamented with fringe. All their

clothes are made from native cloth of native yarn, spun from cotton

grown in the country. These girls are generally thought to be lively in

conversation and quick in repartee.

The Sakarang men are clean built, upright in their gait, and of a very

independent bearing. They are well behaved and gentle in their manners:

and, on their own ground, superior to all others in activity. Their

national dress is a chawat or waistcloth, and in warlike expeditions

they are partial to bright red cloth jackets, so that when assembled at

a distance, they look like a party of English soldiers. The Sakarang

and Seribas men have the peculiar practice of wearing rings all along

the edge of their ears, sometimes as many as a dozen. I thought this

custom confined to them, but I find the Muruts of Padas, opposite

Labuan, also practise it.

Their strength and activity are remarkable. I have seen a Dayak carry

a heavy Englishman down the steepest hills; and when one of their

companions is severely wounded they bear him home, whatever may be

the distance. They exercise a great deal from boyhood in wrestling,

swimming, running, and sham-fighting, and are excellent jumpers. When

a little more civilized they would make good soldiers, being brave by

nature. They are, however, short--a man five feet five inches high

would be considered tall, the average is perhaps five feet three inches.

We did not visit the interior of the Batang Lupar, but it is reported

to be very populous, and the Chinese are now working gold there. I have

penetrated to the very sources of the Sakarang, and found it, after a

couple of days’ pull, much encumbered by drift-wood and rocks, with

shallow rapids over pebbly beds. This interior is very populous, and

from a view we had on a hill over the upper part of the Seribas River,

as far as the hills in which the Kanowit rises, we could perceive but

little old forest.

I may mention that the crime of poisoning is almost unknown on the

north-west coast, but it is very generally believed the people of the

interior of the Kapuas, a few days’ walk from the Batang Lupar, are

much given to the practice. Sherif Sahib, and many others who visited

that country, died suddenly, and the Malays assert it was from poison;

but of this I have no proof.

Near the very sources of the Kapuas live the Malau Dayaks, who are

workers in gold and brass, and it is very singular that members of

this tribe can wander safely through the villages of the head-hunting

Seribas and Sakarang, and are never molested,--on the contrary, they

are eagerly welcomed by the female portion of the population, and the

young men are not indifferent to their arrival; but the specimens of

their work that I have seen do not show much advance in civilization.

The Malau districts produce gold, and it is said very fine diamonds.

I will insert here an anecdote of the public executioner of Sakarang.

Last year, a native was tried and condemned to death for a barbarous

murder, and according to the custom in Malay countries, the next day

was fixed for carrying out the sentence. A Chinese Christian lad, who

was standing near the executioner, said to him earnestly, “What! no

time given him for repentance?” “Repentance!” cried the executioner,

contemptuously. “Repentance! he is not a British subject.” A curious

confusion of ideas. Both were speaking in English, and very good

English.

I tasted here, for the first time, the rambi fruit, that looks

something like a large grape, growing in bunches, pleasantly sweet, yet

with a slight acidity, yellow skin, with the interior divided into two

fleshy pulps.

At the broadest part of the Batang Lupar, nearly four miles across, I

saw a herd of pigs swimming from one shore to the other. If pigs do

this with ease, we need not be surprised that the tigers get over the

old Singapore Strait to devour, on a low average, a man a day.

On our return, while anchored at Pamutus, we saw the bore coming up,

and it was a pretty sight from our safe position. A crested wave spread

from shore to shore, and rushed along with inconceivable speed, to

subside as it approached deep water, to commence again at the sands

with as great violence when it had passed us. At full and change, few

native boats escape which are caught on the shallows, but are rolled

over and over, and the men are dashed breathless on the bank, few

escaping with life.

Some of our Malays went ashore last night to snare deer, while the

Balaus tried for pigs. It used to be a very favourite hunting ground of

the Dayaks, who are expert in everything appertaining to the jungle;

they nearly always employ dogs, which are very small, not larger than a

spaniel, sagacious and clever in the jungle, but stupid, sleepy-looking

creatures out of it, having all the attributes of bad-looking, mongrel

curs as they lurk about the houses; but when some four or five are led

into the jungle, dense and pathless as it is in most places, then they

are ready to attack a wild boar ten times their size. And the wild boar

of the East is a very formidable animal. I have seen one that measured

forty inches high at the shoulder, with a head nearly two feet in

length. Sir Henry Keppel also was present when this was shot, and he

thought a small child could have sat within its jaws. Captain Hamilton

of the 21st M. N. I., a very successful sportsman, killed one forty-two

inches high. Native hunting with good dogs is easy work; the master

loiters about gathering rattans, fruit, or other things of various uses

to his limited wants, and the dogs beat the jungle for themselves, and

when they have found a scent, give tongue, and soon run the animal to

bay: the master knowing this by the peculiar bark, follows quickly and

spears the game.

I have known as many as six or seven pigs killed before midday by

Dayaks while walking along a beach: their dogs searching on the borders

of the forest, bring the pigs to bay, but never really attack till the

master comes with his spear to help them. The boars are very dangerous

when wounded, as they turn furiously on the hunter, and unless he has

the means of escape by climbing a tree, he would fare ill in spite of

his sword and spear, if it were not for the assistance of his dogs.

These creatures, though small, never give in unless severely wounded,

and by attacking the hind legs, keep the pig continually turning round.

The Dayaks are very fond of pork, and fortunately it is so, or they

would be much more easily persuaded to become Mahomedans. They have a

sort of respect for the domestic pig, and an English gentleman was in

disgrace at Lingga on account of allowing his dogs to hunt one that

they met in the fruit-groves, which in any civilized country would

have been considered wild. The European sportsman said in his defence,

that he could not help clapping his hands when he heard his dogs give

tongue in chase. Upon a hot day a deer is soon run down by them; in

fact, hunters declare that they could easily catch them themselves in

very dry weather, when the heat is extremely oppressive. The deer have

regular bathing-places to which they resort, sometimes during the day,

and at others by night.

There are, I believe, only two kinds of deer in Borneo, one Rusa Balum,

and the other Rusa Lalang. The former frequents low swampy ground, and

has double branched horns, averaging about eighteen inches in length.

The Rusa Lalang is a small, plump, hill deer, with short horns, and

having one fork branch near the roots.

The Dayaks say there is another kind; but after making many inquiries,

it appears to be the same as Rusa Balum. Occasionally you meet with

deer whose horns are completely encased in skin.

The natives snare them with rattan loops and nooses, fastened on a

long rope. They are of different lengths, varying from twenty to fifty

feet. A number of these attached to each other, and resting on the tops

of forked sticks, they stretch across a point of land where they have

previously ascertained that deer are lying. After they have arranged

the snares, the party is divided, one division watching them, and

the other landing on the point; barking dogs and yelling men rush up

towards the snare, driving the game before them; the deer, though they

sometimes lie very close, generally spring up immediately and dart off

bewildered, rushing into the nooses, catching their necks or their

fore legs in them; the men on the watch dash up and cut them down, or

spear them before they can break through. They sometimes catch as many

as twenty in one night, but generally only one or two; snaring may be

carried on either in the light or dark.

The evening we set sail from the Batang Lupar, we had a discussion

on Marsden’s theory of the land and sea breezes; one of our party

denied the correctness of the authority whom we looked upon as not

to be challenged in all that relates to the Eastern Archipelago. At

midnight the land breeze commenced blowing, as the ocean does retain

the heat longer than the land, and at midday the sea breeze set in,

which carried us pleasantly onward, passing the mouths of the Seribas

and Kalaka, to our anchorage in the noble river of Rejang. We did not

triumph over our adversary, but recommended him to study Marsden more

carefully. On the bar at the entrance of this river at dead low water,

we had one cast which did not exceed three fathoms, but I do not think

we were in the centre of the channel.

At the entrance of the Rejang is a small town of Milanaus, a people

differing greatly from the Malays in manners and customs; some

converted to Islamism are clothed like other Mahomedans, while those

who still delight in pork dress like Dayaks, to which race they

undoubtedly belong. Their houses are built on lofty posts, or rather

whole trunks of trees are used for the purpose, to defend themselves

against the Seribas.

It is stated that at the erection of the largest house, a deep hole

was dug to receive the first post, which was then suspended over it; a

slave girl was placed in the excavation, and at a signal the lashings

were cut, and the enormous timber descended, crushing the girl to

death. It was a sacrifice to the spirits. I once saw a more quiet

imitation of the same ceremony. The chief of the Quop Dayaks was about

to erect a flag-staff near his house: the excavation was made, and the

timber secured, but a chicken only was thrown in and crushed by the

descending flag-staff.

I made particular inquiries of Haji Abdulraman, and his followers, of

Muka, whilst I was in Brunei last year. They said that the Milanaus

of their town who remained unconverted to Islamism have within the

last few years sacrificed slaves at the death of a respectable man,

and buried them with the corpse, in order that they might be ready

to attend their master in the other world. This conversation took

place in the presence of the Sultan, who said he had often heard the

report of such acts having been committed. One of the nobles present

observed that such things were rare, but that he had known of a similar

sacrifice taking place among the Bisayas of the River Kalias, opposite

our colony of Labuan. He said a large hole was dug in the ground, in

which was placed four slaves and the body of the dead chief. A small

supply of provisions was added, when beams and boughs were thrown

upon the grave, and earth heaped to a great height over the whole. A

prepared bamboo was allowed to convey air to those confined, who were

thus left to starve. These sacrifices can seldom occur, or we should

have heard more of them. There were rumours, however, that at the death

of the Kayan chief Tamawan, whom I met during my expedition to the

Baram, slaves were devoted to destruction, that they might follow him

in the future world.

In front of the houses were erected swings for the amusement of the

young lads and the little children. One about forty feet in height

was fastened to strong poles arranged as a triangle, and kept firm in

their position by ropes like the shrouds of a ship. From the top hung

a strong cane rope, with a large ring or hoop at the end. About thirty

feet on one side was erected a sloping stage as a starting-point.

Mounting on this, one of the boys with a string drew the hoop towards

him, and making a spring into it, away he went. Other lads were ready,

who successively sprung upon the ring or seized the rope, until there

were five or six in a cluster, shouting, laughing, yelling and

swinging. For the younger children smaller ones were erected, as it

required courage and skill to play on the larger.

The Rejang is one of the finest rivers in Borneo, and extends far into

the interior. We ascended it upwards of one hundred miles, and never

had less than four fathoms. Mr. Steel, who lived many years at the

Kanowit fort, told me that it continued navigable for about forty miles

farther, then there were dangerous rapids, but above them the water

again deepened. The Rejang has many mouths, but the principal are the

one we entered, and another to the eastward of Cape Sirik, called Egan.

Its tributaries below the rapids are the Sirikei, the Kanowit, and the

Katibas, the last two very populous.

Above the junction, the Rejang is about a mile and a half broad,

with islets scattered over it, but afterwards it contracts to about

a thousand yards, and has a fine appearance. The scenery here is not

varied by hill or dale; the land is low, but the banks were rendered

interesting by the varied tints of the jungle; blossoms and young

leaves were bursting out in every variety of colour, from the faintest

green to the darkest brown.

The air was filled with a kind of may-fly in astonishing numbers; I

have never seen anything like it before or since: they fell by myriads

into the water, and afforded a feast to thousands of fish that rose

with a dash to the surface, covering the river with tiny widening

circles.

During our passage up we had an instance of the insecurity to which

the head-hunters formerly reduced this country. We landed at a place

called Munggu Ayer (water hill) to bathe; a party of our men insisted

on keeping watch over us, as many people had lost their lives here.

Being a good spot to procure water, boats are accustomed to take in

their supplies at this well, and the Dayaks lurked in the neighbouring

jungle to rush out on the unwary.

Anchored opposite the entrance of the Kanowit, where it was intended to

build a fort to stop the exit of the fleets of Dayak boats that used to

descend this river to attack the people of the Sago countries. Leaving

the force thus engaged, I went and took up my residence in the village

of the Kanowit Dayaks, built opposite the entrance of that stream. The

Rejang is here about 600 or 700 yards broad.

The village consisted of two long houses, one measuring 200 feet, the

other 475. They were built on posts about forty feet in height and some

eighteen inches in diameter. The reason they give for making their

posts so thick is this: that when the Kayans attack a village they drag

one of their long tamuis or war boats ashore, and, turning it over, use

it as a monstrous shield. About fifty bear it on their heads till they

arrive at the ill-made palisades that surround the hamlets, which they

have little difficulty in demolishing; they then get under the house,

and endeavour to cut away the posts, being well protected from the

villagers above by their extemporized shield. If the posts are thin,

the assailants quickly gain the victory; if very thick, it gives the

garrison time to defeat them by allowing heavy beams and stones to fall

upon the boat, and even to bring their little brass wall pieces to

bear upon it; the Kayans will fly if they suffer a slight loss.

The Kanowit Dayaks are a very different people from those who live

on the river of the same name; the latter are all immigrants from

the Seribas and Sakarang. The appearance of these people is very

inferior; few of them have the fine healthy look of those I saw about

Mr. Brereton’s fort; the women are remarkably plain, and scarcely

possess what is so common in Borneo, a bright pair of eyes; ophthalmia

is very prevalent among them, partly caused by their extracting their

eyelashes. They have another custom which is equally inelegant; they

draw down the lobes of their ears to their shoulders, by means of heavy

lead earrings.

Some of the men are curiously tatooed; a kind of pattern covers their

breast and shoulders, and sometimes extends to their knees, having much

the appearance of scale-armour. Others have their chins ornamented to

resemble beards, an appendage denied them by nature.

I have never before entered a village without noticing some interesting

children, but I observed none here; though active enough, they looked

unhealthy and dirty.

Belabun, the chief of this tribe, has had, from his position, a

very extensive intercourse with men, particularly with the Kayans,

who inhabit the upper portion of the river. One of our objects in

visiting the country was to proceed to the interior to make friends

with the numerous Kayan chiefs who live there; but the small-pox had,

unfortunately, broken out among them, and the ascent of the river was

forbidden, and all had fled into the forest. I much regretted this,

as I never had another opportunity of ascending the Rejang. I will not

introduce here the information we collected concerning the Kayans, as I

intend giving an account of the visit I made shortly after to a branch

of those people who lived on the Baram.

It is singular how the story of the men with tails has spread. I have

heard of it in every part I have visited, but their country is always

a few days’ journey farther off. The most circumstantial account I

ever had was from a man who had traded much on the north-east coast of

Borneo. He said he had seen and felt the tails, they were four inches

long, and were very stiff, so that all the people sat on seats in which

there was a hole made for this remarkable appendage to fit in.

Sherif Musahor, a chief of Arab descent, and one of the most violent

men that ever tormented these countries, arriving from Siriki, came

in to see us; he is a very heavy-looking fellow; at one time we were

great friends, as we were equally fond of chess. It is not my object to

enter into political affairs, but I may mention that having instigated

the murder of two Englishmen he fled north, and after a variety of

adventures found himself in 1861 at the head of a band of desperadoes

at a place called Muka. Sir James Brooke had often been reported dead,

and on his arrival at Sarawak the news spread like wildfire along the

coast. Sherif Musahor, greatly disturbed, called before him a Madras

trader and asked him, “Did you see the Rajah?”

“Yes.”

“Had he all his teeth perfect?”

“Yes.”

“Ah, you lie! when I saw him last he had a front tooth knocked out.”

The Madras man saw the fiery look of this desperate chief, but without

losing his presence of mind for a moment, answered, “What, have you not

heard that the Rajah bathed in the waters of the Nile, and that it has

restored his youth again?”

His reply was satisfactory to all the Mahomedans present, who believe

implicitly in every wonder told in the Arabian Nights.

One afternoon, it being a very warm day, we were reclining on our

mats, when a burst of wailing and howling around us told that bad news

had been received. One of the chiefs brothers had returned from the

interior and brought the following intelligence: It appeared that about

two years and a half ago, a younger brother longing to see the world,

had started off to the sources of the Kapuas river, which ultimately

falls into the sea at Pontianah, a Dutch settlement, taking with him

thirteen young men; he travelled on till he reached a Kayan tribe with

whom his people were friends, and stayed with them for a few months.

One day their hosts started on a head-hunting expedition, and invited

seven of their guests to accompany them: the latter never returned,

having all been killed by the Kayans themselves. Why or wherefore it

is impossible to tell, but it is supposed that having failed in their

head-hunt, and being ashamed to return to their women without these

trophies, they had fallen upon their guests. Their remaining companions

being in a neighbouring village escaped. Belabun, anxious to have news

of his brother, had sent the one who had just returned to look for him.

He patiently tracked him, but meeting with the seven survivors, he

learnt the fate of his brother; they returned overland, but the young

chief, impatient to reach home, made a bark canoe, in which he reached

the village.

Belabun and his people were greatly excited, and moved about the house

in a restless and anxious manner, while the wailing of the female

relatives was very distressing, particularly of the young girl whom the

wanderer left as a bride.

It may appear incredible that even the wildest people should commit so

treacherous a deed, but before the Kanowit was well guarded, a Sakarang

chief from the interior, named Buah Raya, passed with fifty war boats

and pulled up the Rejang. Arriving at a village of Pakatan Dayaks,

his allies, he took the men as his guides to attack some Punans, who,

however, escaped; mortified at this result he killed the guides, and

on his return carried off all the women and children as captives. This

was the chief who refused to enter an English church, saying “an old

man might die through entering the white men’s tabernacle.” He would or

could give no explanation of this observation.

These Kanowits follow the Millanau custom of sending much of a dead

man’s property adrift in a frail canoe on the river: they talk of all

his property, but this is confined to talk.

We heard so much of the deceased chief’s goods, which were to be thrown

away, as it is considered they belong to the departed and not to those

who remain, that we went to the place where they lay. We found a sort

of four-sided bier erected, covered with various coloured cloths, and

within it his bride widow lay moaning and wailing, surrounded by his

favourite arms, his gongs, his ornaments, and all that he considered

valuable. Among his treasures was the handle of a kris, representing

the figure of Budha in the usual sitting posture, which they said had

descended to them from their ancestors.

As I expected, these valuables were not sent adrift, but merely a few

old things, that even sacrilegious strangers would scarcely think worth

plundering.

A short time before the Rejang came under Sir James Brooke’s sway, a

relation of Belabun died. Having no enemy near, he looked about for a

victim. Seeing a Dayak of the Katibas passing down the river, he and a

small party followed and overtook him just as he reached the junction;

they persuaded him to come ashore, and then seized and killed him,

taking his head home in triumph. As this murder took place before Sir

James Brooke’s jurisdiction extended over the country, it was difficult

to bring him to account, but on the relations coming to demand

satisfaction, Captain Brooke insisted upon his paying the customary

fine, which satisfied the Katibas.

The second chief of this village is Sikalei, who, when one of his

children died, sallied out and killed the first man he met--they say

it was one of his own tribe, but it was the custom to kill the first

person, even if it were a brother: fortunately they now are brought

under a Government which is strong enough to prevent such practices.

They are a very curious people; the men dress as Dayaks, the women as

Malays; and the latter part their hair in the middle, while all the

other races draw it back from the forehead. They appear to be much

influenced in their customs by the surrounding people; the men tatoo

like Kayans, the women not.

We saw a very curious war-dance; two men, one of a Rejang tribe, the

other from a distant river, commenced a sham fight, with sword and

shield; one of them was dressed as a Malay, the other as a Dayak. With

slow side movements of their arms and legs, advancing and retreating,

cutting and guarding to a measured step, and in regular time; then they

changed to quick movements, stooping low till the shield completely

covered them: with a hopping, dancing motion they kept giving and

receiving blows till one of them fled; the other immediately followed,

but cautiously, as the fugitive was supposed to plant spikes in the

path. At last they again met, and after a fierce combat one was slain,

and the victor with a slow dancing step approached the body and was

supposed to cut off the head of his enemy; but, on looking at it

attentively, he found he had killed a friend, and showed signs of much

grief. With a measured tread, he again drew near the body and pretended

to restore the head; he retired and advanced several times, shaking the

various limbs of the friend’s body, when the slain sprang up as lively

as ever, and the two wound up by a frantic dance.

I have mentioned the ceremonies that took place at the solemnization

of peace between the Sakarangs and Balaus; here they were slightly

different. A pig was placed between the representatives of two tribes,

who, after calling down the vengeance of the spirits on those who broke

the treaty, plunged their spears into the animal, and then exchanged

weapons. Drawing their krises, they each bit the blade of the other’s,

and so completed the affair. The sturdy chief of Kajulo declared he

considered his word as more binding than any such ceremony.

In the neighbourhood of the Kanowit, and scattered about these

countries, are the wandering tribes of Pakatan and Punan, which seldom

build regular houses, but prefer running up temporary huts, and when

they have exhausted the jungle around of wild beasts and other food,

they move to a new spot. They are the great collectors of wax, edible

birds’ nests, camphor and rattans. They are popularly said to be fairer

than the other inhabitants of Borneo, as they are never exposed to the

sun, living in the thickest part of the old forest. Those we have seen

were certainly darker, but they themselves assert that their women are

fairer. It is probable that exposure to the air has as much effect

upon them as exposure to the sun. I have often met with their little

huts in the forest and used them as night lodgings, but I have never

come across these wild tribes. I have seen individual men, but never

communities.

The Pakatans and Punans are the true manufacturers of the Sumpitan, or

blow-pipe; and in their hands it is a formidable weapon. It is curious

to examine this product of their skill; and we cannot but admire the

accuracy with which the hole is drilled through a hard wood shaft some

seven or eight feet long.

I had often heard of the deadly effect of the poison into which the

arrow was dipped, but always disbelieved the bulk of the native

stories, though I must believe in the evidence we have lately had.

In 1859, the Kanowit tribe, instigated by Sherif Musahor, murdered

two English gentlemen, and then fled into the interior. Mr. Johnson,

who led the attack on them, tells me he lost thirty men by wounds

from the poisoned arrows. He found the bodies of Dayaks who had gone

out as skirmishers without a mark, beyond the simple puncture where

a drop of blood rested on the wound. One man was struck near him; he

instantly had the arrow extracted, the wound sucked, a glass of brandy

administered, and the patient sent off to the boats about four miles

distant. Two companions supported him, and they had strict orders not

to allow him to sleep till he reached the landing-place: they made him

keep awake, and he recovered. As it is common to destroy deer, wild

boars and other creatures with these arrows, no doubt man also can be

killed.

I will now give an account of the manners and customs of the Sea

Dayaks.