The name of their first chief known to history still lives in Juan de

Bolas, in the St. John district of St. Catherine, round which hill the

Maroons were scattered in Doyley’s time; but de Bolas in time

surrendered to the English, and was made colonel of the black regiment,

and trouble ceased for the moment. The next Maroon chief of whom we read

is Cudjoe. In 1690 there was an insurrection, in the parish of

Clarendon, of negro slaves who found a secure retreat in the interior of

the country, contenting themselves for a time with predatory excursions

against neighbouring estates. When later an armed force was sent against

them, they elected as their chief Cudjoe, who appointed his brothers,

Accompong, whose name still lives in =Accompong= in St. Elizabeth

(Akjampong was the name of an Ashantee chief who figured in the Ashantee

War of 1872) and Johnny, as leaders under him, the greater part of his

men being Coromantees. He was, in about 1730, joined by a party of

Cottawood negroes from St. George (now merged in Portland), and later by

a party from St. Elizabeth. From the similarity of their mode of life,

Cudjoe and his followers about this time became known as Maroons, the

same as the original Spanish runaway slaves. Up to this time forty-four

Acts of the Assembly, Long tells us, had been passed, and £240,000

expended for the suppression of the Maroons. On the commencement of

hostilities against them, their mere wish for plunder became a desire

for revenge. In 1733 the Government resolved to establish advanced posts

to hold the Maroons in check, one at Cave Valley being intended to guard

Cudjoe. These posts were garrisoned by independent companies,

confidential negroes (termed black shot), mulattoes, and some two

hundred Indians specially imported from the Mosquito Coast, who,

fighting the Maroons with their own weapons, destroyed their provision

grounds. Dogs, provided by the churchwardens of the parishes, were also

used for defence and for tracking purposes. Realising that his quarters

were accessible to the rangers, Cudjoe removed into Trelawny, on the

north-west side of the Cockpits. Finding them difficult to subdue, and

fearful of the risk of defeat of an organised attack on them, the

Governor, Edward Trelawny, was persuaded—at a time when, though he was

ignorant of it, the Maroons were prepared to surrender—to offer terms of

peace to the Maroons, the offer being made through Colonel Guthrie, of

the militia, and Captain Sadler, of the regulars, who had been placed in

command of the troops it had originally been intended to send against

them. Dr. Russell was selected as delegate to represent the English. In

order to placate Cudjoe he exchanged hats with him. Later, Colonel

Guthrie came forward, and under Cudjoe’s tree in Guthrie’s defile were

concluded “Articles of Pacification with the Maroons of Trelawny Town,

March 1, 1738,” by which the Maroons received full pardon, with

privilege to possess for ever 1500 acres between =Trelawny Town=, which

was then so called after the Governor, Edward Trelawny, and the

Cockpits, with right to hunt; the Maroons on their side undertaking to

take part in any action of the Government against rebels, and to hand

over runaway slaves to their masters. A similar treaty was made with

Quao and the Windward Maroons in July 1739, and the five Maroon

settlements of Jamaica were established—Trelawny Town, Accompong,

Scott’s Hall, Charles Town and Moore Town, the last three being in the

eastern part of the island. Later, some of the land was alienated from

Trelawny Town, and 1000 acres were attached to Accompong. It was really

this treaty, which kept the bodies of Maroons as a distinct tribe in the

strongest parts of the country, instead of encouraging their being

merged in the general negro population, that was the cause of all the

subsequent trouble.

We next in the history of the Maroons come to the rebellion in 1795, by

the Trelawny Town Maroons—sometimes spoken of as the Maroon War—when

James Montague was their leading chief. Their neighbours at Accompong

sided with the Government.

The immediate cause of (or rather excuse for) the rebellion was the

flogging at the workhouse at Montego Bay by a runaway negro (whom the

Maroons themselves had captured) of two Maroons who had been convicted

of stealing pigs. Previous to this the Maroons had become discontented

through the removal of their superintendent, which removal they

themselves had helped to bring about, and disapproval of his successor;

and they also desired new land in place of that allotted to them, which

they said was both worn out and insufficient. But Balcarres, the

Governor, always held that the origin of the war lay “in French

principles and the unjustifiable mode of warfare adopted in these

islands by the ruling power in France.”

At the first outbreak the whole island was put under martial law, and

the Governor himself, a veteran of the American war, went to the seat of

war and took command—his headquarters being first at Vaughan’s Field and

later at Montego Bay and Castle Wemyss—only leaving the scene of

operations to meet the Assembly from time to time in Spanish Town. Of a

nature prone to show his military prowess, and moved by fear of the

influence of the rebellion taking place in Haiti hard by, and the

presence of a number of questionable immigrants in Jamaica from that

island, as well as by his prejudice against the _imperium in imperio_

which the Maroons possessed under the treaty of 1738, he gave the

rebels, the Maroons of Trelawny Town (1660 in number all told) only four

days in which to surrender. Thirty-eight did so; but on August 12

hostilities commenced by a detachment of dragoons falling into an

ambuscade, five officers and thirty men being killed. It is said by some

that the Maroons chose their time for rising when they did, as they knew

that with the departure of the July fleet but few troops would be left

in the island; and it was only by the prompt action on the part of the

Governor in stopping the _Halifax_ packet for three weeks and in

detaining a convoy of troops on its way from England to St. Domingo

(where it was sadly needed), which had actually sailed from Port Royal,

that forces were available to meet the rebels. These forces numbered

some four hundred men of the 13th, 14th, 17th, and 18th Light Dragoons,

the 83rd Foot, and the recently raised 130th Foot. A tiresome campaign

then followed, in which twenty actions were fought, the seat of the

struggle being the wild Cockpit country. By another ambuscade Colonel

Fitch and two other officers lost their lives.

At the time of the meeting of the Assembly in September the rebellion

was not so near quelled as the Governor had hoped.

Lieutenant-Colonel Walpole, of the 13th Light Dragoons, who on the death

of Colonel Fitch had succeeded to the command of the forces, and was

made a major-general by Balcarres and given very full powers, altered

the whole plan of campaign, teaching the troopers of the 17th Light

Dragoons, who had had experience in colonial warfare with Tarleton in

America, to fight on foot and to work in twos, so that each could hold

the arms of the other while climbing had to be done—and by fighting the

Maroons in their own way paved the way for their surrender. But the

difficulty of the operation may be judged by the fact that Walpole,

after months of experience, wrote to Balcarres that there was “little

chance of any but a Maroon discovering a Maroon.”

When “cultivation was suspended, the courts at law had long been shut

up, and the Island seemed more like a garrison under the power of the

martial law than a country of agriculture and commerce,” one hundred

bloodhounds and forty chasseurs were imported from Cuba to aid in

tracking the Maroons. The news of the arrival (on December 14) of the

hounds had such an effect that without seeing them the Maroons sued for

peace a week or so later, only stipulating that they should not be

executed or transported. The treaty was ratified on December 28, but

they were only given till January 1 to come in and deliver up the

runaways. In the end they were transported on the grounds that they had

not surrendered by the date named (the last did not come in until March

21) and that they had not surrendered up the runaway slaves that had

joined them; and Walpole, considering that the Governor and House of

Assembly had broken faith with the Maroons, whom he had promised should

not be expatriated, refused a sword of honour offered him by that body

and resigned his commission in the army, which, however, he had

contemplated selling before the trouble with Balcarres began. That being

so, it is odd to read in the “Account of Expenses incurred in the late

Martial Law” “Present of swords to Lord Balcarres and General Walpole,

£1950.” The regard one feels for Walpole’s indignation at what he terms

“this guilt and infamy,” and his skill in quelling the rebellion, is

marred when one learns that he Wrote to Balcarres on December 24, 1795:

“Two Maroons (Smith and Dunbar) have come in from Johnstone’s party, to

beg the King’s mercy, and the whole are to be here on Saturday, to

construct their huts within our posts. I have allotted them a spot

between Cudjoe Town and the Old Town; there they are to remain until the

Legislature shall dispose of them. If I might give you an opinion, it

should be that they should be settled near Spanish Town, or some other

of the large towns in the lowlands; the access to spirits will soon

decrease their numbers, and destroy that hardy constitution which is

nourished by a healthy mountainous situation.” It is evident that his

indignation was aroused by the false position in which he had been

placed, and not by any humanitarian feeling towards the Maroons. It is

also evident that Balcarres was satisfied in his own conscience that his

action was right.

Parkinson was one of the last to surrender, about three months after the

date fixed. He and Palmer, who had both surrendered on August 11, 1795,

had been sent to the Maroons to try and persuade them to come in.

Instead, they had rejoined their companies. That General Walpole had a

high opinion of them as leaders is evident. He says in a letter to Lord

Balcarres, “If Palmer or Parkinson should refuse the terms, which I

think they will, you will never conquer them.”

In addition to the regular foot soldiers and militia employed, the 13th,

14th, 17th, 18th and 20th Light Dragoons and the York Hussars, as we

have seen, took part in the struggle, and =Horse-guards= in St. James’s

probably owes its name to their having been quartered there. Of the

Dragoons, the 20th (or Jamaica) were raised in the West Indies. On the

whole about 1520 chosen European troops, aided by twice that number of

colonial militia, were opposed to less than three hundred undisciplined

Maroons, who were, however, physically brave men, and fighting under

conditions very favourable to themselves and most unfavourable to their

adversaries. They had a system of horn-signals so perfect that there was

a distinct call by which every individual man could be hailed. The cost

of the war was about £350,000 sterling. In addition £49,400 was voted to

defray the expatriation expenses.

Under date December 22, 1795, General Walpole wrote to Lord Balcarres as

follows:

I have the honour to enclose to your Lordship the proposals of the

Maroons to which I have acceded.

The whole detachment behaved to their credit. I must not omit to

mention to your Lordship, that to the impression made in the action by

the undaunted bravery of the 17th Dragoons who were more particularly

engaged on the 15th, we owe the submission of the rebels: The Maroons

speak of them with astonishment. Mr. Werge was particularly signalized

with the advance guard; and the sergeant-major of that regiment is

strongly recommended, for his spirit and activity, by the commanding

officer Mr. Edwards, who is every way deserving your Lordship’s good

opinion.

On February 11, 1796, General Walpole wrote to Lord Balcarres as

follows:—

... I am preparing to move the 13th Dragoons through the cockpits,

from One-Eye.

On February 20 Lord Balcarres wrote to General Walpole:

... I think it will take a considerable force to guard the Maroon

prisoners. The 17th Light Dragoons and the 62nd Regiment may occupy

Montego-Bay, Falmouth and St. Ann’s.

The 17th are to hold themselves in readiness to embark for St.

Domingo, when they send shipping to receive them; of which no

requisition is as yet made.

I should be glad to know your wish as to the quartering of the 13th

Light Dragoons on their arrival.

The 14th regiment of Light Dragoons are not to remain in this country

if quiet is restored. If, however, the banditti of runaway slaves have

gone down to Old Woman Savanna, they must occupy posts in that

neighbourhood; the country that lies behind it I believe never was

explored.

The “XX (or Jamaica) Regiment of Light Dragoons” was formed in 1792 and

is last mentioned in the year 1802, when it was transferred to the

English establishment.

Major-Gen. Robert R. Gillespie, who was one of the first lieutenants

appointed when the regiment was raised in 1792, entered the army in

1783. When in the following year the French planters in San Domingo

applied to Jamaica for aid, he volunteered for service with the

infantry, and in the campaign there distinguished himself for bravery,

returning home at the fall of Port-au-Prince. On being appointed in 1795

major of brigade to General Wilford, he accompanied him to San Domingo,

and soon afterwards, though small in stature, killed six men single

handed. Returning to Jamaica, he assumed command of the regiment, and in

1799 was recommended by the lieutenant-governor and House of Assembly

for the rank of lieutenant-colonel and was so gazetted. He was offered

by Lord Hugh Seymour the military command at Curaçoa; but Lord Balcarres

said he could not spare him. At the Peace of Amiens in 1802, when the

20th Light Dragoons were transferred to the English establishment,

Gillespie returned home in command, and the House of Assembly, glad to

be rid of the regiment, voted one hundred pounds for a sword of honour

for him. He subsequently had a brilliant career in the East, and in 1812

he received the thanks of the commander-in-chief in India, Sir George

Nugent, for services in connection with the Palimbang expedition.

With regard to the unfairness to them in expatriating them, it is only

just to those who did it to add that those few Maroons to whom was

offered liberty to stay in Jamaica elected to go with the rest, on the

grounds that “they feared they could never live in security and quiet

with the free people of colour and negroes in this island.” Balcarres

was severely attacked in England for the use he made of the dogs from

Cuba; but he, it would seem, fully justified his action in that matter.

On June 6, 1796, the Maroons left Port Royal in three ships with the

96th Regiment as guard, and under convoy of H.M.S. _Africa_. The arrival

of the exiles in Halifax is thus described in “Maroons of Jamaica and

Nova Scotia, by J. C. Hamilton, LL.B.” in “Proceedings of the Canadian

Institute, April 1890”: “Four years after this (_i.e._ in 1796) three

ships entered the harbour of Halifax, laden with the most extraordinary

cargoes that ever entered that port. Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then

in command at Halifax, boarded the _Dover_, was met by Colonel W. D.

Quarrell, commissary-general of Jamaica, with whom Mr. Alexander

Ouchterlony was associated, and a detachment of the 96th Regiment drawn

up on board to receive him. Black men of good proportions, with many

women and children, all in neat uniform attire, were mustered in lines.

Other transports, the _Mary_ and _Anne_, were, his Highness was

informed, about to follow, and the main cargo was six hundred Maroons

exiled from Jamaica, with soldiers to guard them and meet any attacks

from French vessels on the voyage.

“The Prince was struck with the fine appearance of the black men, but

the citizens had heard of how Jamaica had been harried by its black

banditti, and were unwilling at first to have them added to their

population.”

They worked at the fortifications that were being erected to meet the

threatened attack of the French fleet under Richery; and Maroon Hill,

near Halifax, still bears their name. But the settlement of the Maroons

in Nova Scotia was ill-conceived and ill-controlled, and they, being

themselves unwilling to work, and both Jamaica and Nova Scotia unwilling

to keep them in idleness, followed in 1800 those “loyal negroes” of the

United States who had migrated first to Canada and then to Sierra Leone.

In the transport _Asia_ 550 of them reached Sierra Leone, where, as no

particular place could be secured for their location, efforts to obtain

an island having failed, they were allotted a place in Granville Town,

under a superintendent, Lieutenant Odburn. The “Settlers’ Rising” was in

progress when they arrived, and they assisted in quelling it.

Soon after the Trelawny Town Maroons were transported from Jamaica,

barracks were erected on the site of their old town, and regiments of

British troops were maintained there until the middle of the nineteenth

century, when they were withdrawn at the time of the Crimean war.

Trelawny Town was for a time the headquarters of the troops stationed in

the county of Cornwall, but it later was superseded by Falmouth. The

barracks at Trelawny Town have fallen into ruins, but the evidence of

the residents in the neighbourhood of a number of white soldiers in the

past exists in some of the peasantry there to-day.

In 1839 Maroon Town was made the site of a sanatorium for European

troops, and huts were erected there for the purpose, and the 68th

Regiment was stationed there.

On a visit made to the Cockpit country in 1905 by the present writer and

a friend, on entering the neighbourhood of Trelawny Town, or Maroon Town

as it is now called, we came across the remains of a block-house which

had loopholed chambers at three corners and evidently had had an upper

storey, now disappeared, for dwelling purposes. Being now in the heart

of the Cockpit country we could study its formation in detail. At one

time it gave the impression of a number of stunted cones rising from a

plain; at another the feeling was one of a number of basins like the

Devil’s Punch-bowls of England; at all times, except where there was a

clearing for corn, bananas or bread-kind, it appeared thickly

wooded—mahogany, cedar, mahoe, Santa Maria, and broadleaf being

prominent; and mosquito wood and red shingle wood, and other lesser

known woods, being pointed out by our guide. As the bridle path now runs

at some distance from the rocks, which here and there crop out of the

overhanging foliage and assume the form of solid masonry, tending to

deceive one into thinking that one is in front of the ruin of some fort,

it cannot be by it that the troops travelled when the Maroons hurled

stones on them from above. As one rides along these defiles the mournful

note of the solitaire, suggests the nervousness which might have fallen

on the soldiers marching through a thickly wooded, rocky, unknown

country, every crag of which might conceal a foe, to whose foot such

mountain paths were familiar. At Maroon Town itself we found a clearing

on which cattle were grazing, and a police station (just abandoned)

built on the site of the officers’ quarters of half a century ago. Near

by was the well which supplied the settlement with water, and a

barracks, some 130 ft. long by 30 ft. broad, which had once possessed an

upper storey of wood, little now remaining of the stoutly built lower

walls of limestone quarried in the neighbourhood. There also were the

powder-house and the cells, the hospital and the kitchens and the

mess-house, which, placed on an immense rock open to the sea breeze from

the east, commanded a view over Trelawny to the sea by Falmouth miles

away. It was once a substantial building of three storeys, the solid

steps leading up to the second floor being still usable. Opposite the

mess-house rise two large conical hills calling to mind the twin Pitons

of St. Lucia—the one called Gun Hill (because a gun had been placed in

position there, possibly the howitzer with which Walpole did great

execution), the other Garrison Hill. Then we saw the tank some thirty

feet long, fed by a clear stream in which the soldiers were wont to

bathe; then, saddest of all, a few tombs—one recalling the death in 1840

of a coloured sergeant of the 68th (or Durham) Regiment, another to the

wife of a quartermaster of the 38th Regiment who died in 1846, and a

third to the paymaster of the 101st Regiment who died in 1810; while a

nameless tomb, the oldest inhabitant told us, belonged to a Colonel

Skeate, who, being ill when his regiment left, was buried by the

incoming regiment. The wood behind the police station was, we were told,

almost impassable. For miles the thick woods lie untrodden by man,

except when a few Maroons or other negroes go hunting the wild hogs

which abound, or “fowling,” _i.e._ shooting pigeons.

After leaving Maroon Town we visited the chief settlement of the Maroons

in the west end of the island, Accompong, and experienced rough

travelling. In places there was nothing but the bare limestone rock for

yards, without a scrap of earth. Nothing but a pony bred in the district

could have negotiated it successfully. But once on the main path riding

was easy. One was struck by the amount of cultivation on either hand;

here and there a patch of bananas, here and there yams, and so on. On

reaching the town of Accompong we saw a number of houses scattered about

and a small church nearing completion. Across a “pit” stood the

“Colonel’s” house on the opposite side. There was a schoolhouse,

presided over by a teacher trained in the elementary school at

Retirement hard by; but the Maroons apparently did not set much store by

education, and only about a fourth of their children attended school.

The “Colonel’s” brother told us he knew more of their old language

(Coromantyn) than any one else, but all we could get out of them was pig

= bracho, bull = aboukani, cow = aboukress. From a philological point of

view one views them with suspicion, although the late Major J. W.

Powell, of the Bureau of Ethnology of the United States, assured the

writer that when he visited these Maroons a year or two ago, he had

discovered them talking their native language. Bryan Edwards tells us

that in his day their language was “a barbarous dissonance of the

African dialects with a mixture of Spanish and broken English.”

To the ordinary observer there is little or nothing to differentiate the

Maroons from the ordinary “bush-negroes,” although they seem to possess

more than an ordinary share of suspiciousness—a suspiciousness which was

engendered by the treatment which their brothers of Trelawny Town

received from Balcarres, and has been kept alive at odd times by

subsequent actions. This curious group of people numbering about 800

dwelt, each family in its own house, in the centre of their 1200 acres,

which they hold in common.

The following technical description of the Cockpit country, wherein

Maroon Town and Accompong are situated, is taken from Mr. F. C.

Nicholas’s paper on the subject in the “Journal of the Institute of

Jamaica,” 1897.

A marked feature of the geology of the West Indies is found in the

extensive deposits of massive white limestone common to all this part

of the world. This formation, though hard and compact, disintegrates

freely; tall cliffs and broken rocks are honeycombed with openings and

pit-marks, presenting a rough jagged surface, which is sometimes

almost impassable.

The Cockpit country where this formation is typical is situated in the

west central part of Jamaica, and comprises an area some ten by

fifteen miles in extent, and for the greater part one vast labyrinth

of glades among rough cliffs, with here and there patches of smoother

ground, and at other places, coming one after the other, a general

collection of impassable sink-holes, called cockpits.

The impression one gets in first visiting this region is that it is of

little interest; just a path between a few not very high cliffs. There

is such a sameness about it all that one is constantly expecting the

next turn to lead out into the open country, or to a cultivated

estate. After a few hours’ hard scrambling one realises that here in

truth there is a wilderness of rocks.

A large part of the Cockpit country has never been explored, nor is it

probable that it ever will be, because the land is useless. One can

cross the district from north to south, and east to west, and go all

round it; sufficient to show that there is nothing to compensate for

the effort, and that one part is quite similar to all the others. The

elevations averaged from 1400 ft. to 1500 ft. In the glades I noted

aneroid readings as low as 800 ft.; while on some of the ridges which

cross this district N.E. and S.W., bending at times N. and S., I took

readings as high as 2300 ft. These are the extremes, the average

variation is about 200 ft.; but these elevations are abrupt and almost

precipitous over nearly all the region.

In 1898 there arose, owing to a not unfrequent source, disputes about

land, some slight trouble amongst the Maroons of Charles Town, which

was, however, effectually suppressed by the prompt action of the general

commanding the forces. It, however, gave to the late Phil Robinson, who

was in the island at the time, an opportunity to write an article for

the “Contemporary Review,” entitled “A Dress Rehearsal of Rebellion

among the Maroons at Annotto Bay, Jamaica.”

In 1796 “The Proceedings of the Honourable House of Assembly relative to

the Maroons; including the correspondence between the Right Honourable

Earl Balcarres and the Honourable Major-General Walpole, during the

Maroon rebellion; with the report of the Joint Special Secret Committee,

to whom those papers were referred,” edited by Bryan Edwards, was

published at St. Jago de la Vega; while in the same year was published

in London “The Proceedings of the Governor and Assembly of Jamaica, in

regard to the Maroon negroes: published by order of the Assembly. To

which is prefixed an introductory account, containing observations on

the disposition, character, manners, and habits of life, of the Maroons,

and a detail of the origin, progress and termination of the late war

between those people and the white inhabitants.” This was published in

great measure as an answer to the attack made by Fox in the House of

Commons on the action of the Assembly of Jamaica with regard to the

Maroons. The same “Account of the Maroon Negroes in the Island of

Jamaica” was included in Bryan Edwards’ “Historical Survey of the Island

of St. Domingo,” published in 1801.

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