SINOPE.
After leaving Soukoum we had three days of fine weather, though the
winds had been somewhat capricious and baffling. Still we had done
well, having had a run of 102 miles during the first twenty-four hours,
and of 86 during the next; but on the 24th of September the wind began
to moan ominously, and a thick fog was drawing up to windward like
a curtain. The sea began to heave up and down with a sort of heavy,
sullen motion, as if gathering its strength before a battle of the
elements began.
Under these circumstances, and having a wish also to see Sinope,
we resolved to go there, rather than brave the threatening gale. The
helm was therefore put up, and about seven p.m. we made out one high
and two low islands, which, on nearer approach, resolved themselves
into a very narrow isthmus, that, stretching far away into the sea,
terminated in a steep rocky promontory.
On the neck of the isthmus stands Sinope, commanding a beautiful
view of the long range of mountains and wooded hills that line the
coast. The town itself is a quaint place, tightly squeezed into some
old castellated walls, with a fierce little pepper-box of a fort
at each corner. Outside the town, a long straggling Greek suburb
runs up the hill for a considerable distance, its low red and brown
houses looking very picturesque amongst the groups of cypress and
fig-trees. The roadstead, though open and exposed to the east, has the
reputation of being perfectly secure, and we find ourselves in quite
a little crowd of Greek, Turkish, Austrian, and Russian vessels. It
seems, therefore, that others besides ourselves have had forebodings
of bad weather, and have taken refuge in this, the only safe anchorage
on the southern side of the Black Sea. It is singular, however, that
the anchorage should be so safe, for it is difficult to believe that
a heavy sea would not set into the bay, should the wind come from
any quarter between north-east and south. It is said, however, that a
vessel has never been known to be driven from her anchor; so the only
solution is that these winds never blow here with violence. Certainly
during our stay, though a tremendous sea was running about a mile or
two out, but little swell ever came up to the anchorage.
On the morning after our arrival, an intimation came from the Pasha
(one of the Sultan's numerous brothers-in-law), that he wished to
pay us a visit. Soon after twelve his Highness arrived, attended
by a very numerous suite, and accompanied by a Greek gentleman,
the Austrian consul.
We were somewhat dismayed at the sight of such a goodly company, as
our little cabins could not possibly accommodate so large a party of
guests, and a Turk of high rank does not like to remain on deck. All
were anxious to come below; it was therefore somewhat difficult to
prevent undue crowding, for the Pasha was so interested in all he saw,
that he insisted upon visiting every part of the vessel. He appeared
an exceedingly intelligent man, and had a vivacity of manner somewhat
unusual in a Turk.
When the cakes and sweetmeats appeared they were accompanied by
champagne and liqueurs, both of which beverages were highly approved
of. Happily by the laws of the Koran they are not considered wine,
and the champagne was drunk in tumblers without any hesitation.
As the Governor descended into his state barge, manned by ten rowers
in grand but rather dirty crimson jackets and fezzes, the yacht gave
him the proper salute of fifteen guns, a compliment that was promptly
returned by a Turkish man-of-war, to the intense joy of all the little
boys in the town, who came flocking out of numberless narrow streets
and alleys in an astonishing variety of dress, or rather undress.
Later in the day we proceeded to make a little tour round the town.
Sinope is divided into two parts, one inhabited by Turks, the other
by Greeks.
The streets in the Greek quarter do not deserve the name. They are
little better than rough water-courses, and are so narrow that the
overhanging eaves of the houses almost touch each other. But what
a wealth of picturesque beauty do these old houses present to the
eye of an artist! Built entirely of wood, they are either painted
a deep chocolate colour, or are left to brown and blacken with age,
whilst so much shadow is lightened both by the great masses of moss
or lichen that cling to the roof, and by the bright green of the
vines that half cover the walls.
The mode of building is peculiar. The frame is joined together, and
the roof is put on and finished. The walls are then made by means
of layers of shingles (long narrow pieces of wood), fastened to the
upright posts. These planks are of uneven length, and project over each
other in a confused irregularity, which though charming in a sketch,
leaves so many yawning crevices that each house must be a veritable
temple of the winds.
The majority of the houses were much larger than might have been
expected in so small and poor a town; but sometimes as many as ten
or twelve families will live together, not in separate flats or
apartments, but as one household.
It would seem as if in days of yore their ancestors must have been
bitten by tarantulas, for dancing is a perfect mania with the Greeks
here of all ages and classes. "Young men and maidens," old men and
women, dance every evening, with an animation and an unwearied delight
that neither poverty nor age seems able to diminish. Their principal
aim, therefore, in building, is to have a large "salle de danse" for
winter use, and as soon as this portion of the house is completed,
the various families squeeze themselves into a few little rooms,
contentedly enduring gaping walls and half-finished floors, so long
as they have space for the beloved Romaika.
Though the houses are so crowded, they are nevertheless beautifully
clean. A constant scrubbing seems going on, a process, strange to say,
that is also extended to the inhabitants.
The women are really lovely, their features having the delicately
cut outline that is so beautiful in the ancient Greek statues. Many
have exquisitely fair complexions, and we fell in love immediately
with their hair, for it had that dusky, half golden, half red tint
only seen in the tresses of the gorgeous beauties of Titian and
Georgione. It was a painful disenchantment to find that it owed its
beauty not to nature, but to henna--in fact it was dyed. So enamoured
are the Sinope women of this colour, that even the babies in arms have
their scanty little locks tinged with the ruddy hue. Still, putting
aside the disappointment of their hair, the women were worthy of all
the admiration we bestowed upon them. Not only have they delicate
features and complexions, but their eyes also are unusually beautiful;
large, lustrous and dark, without being black, they have a tender,
deprecating look that reminds one of the inexpressibly touching
expression seen in the eyes of the unhappy Beatrice Cenci.
It is a well-known saying that pretty women generally dress well;
either they adorn the dress, or the dress adorns them. The Sinope
beauties are no exception to the rule, and the gay costume adds
another attraction to the charms of the wearer.
On a fête-day a Sinope belle puts a many-coloured handkerchief over
her head, which she ties as tightly as possible under the chin, in
order to make her cheeks look round and smooth. In this, perhaps,
she is a little mistaken, as ladies of other lands are who tighten
their waists by way of improving their figures.
Another handkerchief is twisted round the head, beneath which the
hair falls in two or three long thick plaits, while a few little
curls are coquettishly allowed to stray over the forehead.
Her cloth jacket, of some bright colour, generally scarlet, blue,
or green, is half covered with a rich embroidery of black or gold
braid, and is left open in front, to show a full white chemise that
is drawn up closely round the throat. A short petticoat of fringed
silk, or a striped shawl of many colours is worn over large Turkish
trousers, the toilet being completed by a crimson scarf fastened as
a sash round the waist. Altogether it would be difficult to find a
more brilliant or becoming costume.
The fair damsel also wears all her worldly wealth on her head and neck,
and hanging from her ears, in the shape of long strings of gold or
silver coins.
Unlike their Turkish neighbours, therefore, the Sinope Greeks have the
inestimable advantage of being able to ascertain by the same glance
whether the fortune equals the fair face of the young beauties amongst
whom they have to select their wives.
For the first time for some years we saw again, not only middle-aged
women, but women of a middle age, that were both well preserved and
good-looking. In most countries the men have their proper allowance
of the complete seven ages, but out of England, and in Eastern
countries especially, it is rare to find women of the poorer classes
who have more than three--namely, childhood, girlhood, and decrepit
old age. From the second to the third is only a step, and a young
girl has scarcely passed the bloom of early youth ere she changes in
a marvellously short time into a wrinkled, toothless, shrivelled old
woman. It was really refreshing to look at the good-looking women
of uncertain age at Sinope; they had such a bright, matronly, and,
if the simile may be used, such a sunshiny air about them.
The people seemed wonderfully good-natured, and bestowed upon us many
nods and pleasant looks, as if they were really glad to see strangers
in their little town.
Leaving the Greek quarter, we came to a broad, open space, with a few
groups of cypress scattered about--the Turkish burial-ground, chosen
with much taste, as is usually the case with Turkish cemeteries. Placed
on the narrowest part of the isthmus that unites the promontory to
the mainland, it commands lovely views over both bays.
We crossed a shaky draw-bridge, and, passing under an old mouldering
gateway, found ourselves in the Turkish town--in the real region
of true believers--not modern Turks, such as are now mostly seen
in Constantinople, in Frank dresses and polished boots, but amongst
grave, old-fashioned Moslems, arrayed in the flowing robes and large
decorous turbans of days gone by.
The women, not nominally veiled in transparent and becoming clouds
of muslin, but closely wrapped in sheets of such uncompromising
calico that not even the tip of a nose could be seen, glided about
like spectres, occasionally stopping under the shadow of a wall, to
peep curiously at the unwonted spectacle of Christian women passing
through their streets.
Finding ourselves in such an assemblage of "The Faithful," I became
suddenly conscience-stricken on account of my cambric morning gown,
which was really very pretty, but unhappily of a delicate green!! We
could not but see the angry glances cast on the objectionable shade,
so, although the evening was very oppressive, I hastened to hide myself
as much as possible under the folds of a large shawl, doing my best,
therefore, to prevent the scandal of the sacred colour being seen on
an unbelieving "Giaour."
Dried fish and tobacco seemed the staple commodities of the place,
and in spite of the exceeding cleanliness both of houses and people,
they cause an ancient and fish-like odour to linger in the streets.
Leaving the town by a gate opposite to that by which we had entered,
we found ourselves on the sea-shore. The big waves came tumbling in
on the beach in great angry masses, and as they poured back again
with a sullen roar, the old walls of the town seemed to quiver to
their foundations, as if many more high tides and stormy seas would
speedily lay them low. But old and tottering as they appear, they
have for nearly three centuries resisted the efforts of their enemy,
and the waves, by their own violence, have helped to make a little
sand-bank that now seems to protect the ancient walls from their
too near approach. The air was heavy and oppressive, giving that
sensation of nervous foreboding that so often precedes physical or
mental trouble. A long line of lurid clouds showed where the sun had
gone down with angry redness, and some very dark streaks on the grey
waters at the horizon seemed to say that to-morrow's rising would be
as stormy as to-night's farewell.
The Austrian consul tells us that for some years the storm of the
year has always taken place during the last week in September, the
26th being an especially fatal day. That luckless period is now over,
so we venture to hope that the muttering tempest may but be moving
on its way to other seas.
Though the short twilight was scarcely over as we again crossed the
Greek quarter, not a soul was to be seen--not a light glimmered at
a window; every street was silent and deserted. After the customary
dance the people of Sinope, like the birds, go to bed with the sun,
and a feeling came over us as if we were guilty of some degree of
fastness, almost of dissipation, in not also being at home and in bed,
like other respectable people, though it was little past eight o'clock.
A few hours later the storm burst forth in good earnest, and raged
all night with great fury. Towards morning the wind somewhat suddenly
went down, but a tremendous sea was running beyond the roadstead.
Three large steamers put in soon after dawn. One of them close by
us presents a really pitiable spectacle. There are between four and
five hundred Persians on board, and the deck is a scene of dirt and
wretchedness such as would be difficult to find equalled. The Persians
will never separate from their luggage; they sit on their goods all
day and sleep on them all night. During the heavy sea yesterday the
waves washed completely over the vessel, drenching these miserable
creatures as well as their goods. From the deck being so encumbered the
water could not escape, and these wretched people were lying for hours
as in a bath, and in a frightful state of prostration and suffering,
the combined effects of terror and sea-sickness. Some of them are now
trying to dry their rags in the occasional gleams of sunshine, and
the ship is covered with sheep-skins, bits of old shawls, carpets, and
the complicated articles of clothing only known to Eastern toilettes.
As we wished to see the country, the Governor kindly lent us horses,
and, accompanied by the Austrian consul, we set out in the afternoon
for a ride. To do us still more honour, the Pasha had also sent two of
his body-guard to attend us. More villainous-looking individuals it
would have been difficult to find anywhere. Our conviction was that
they must have been, even if, as we hoped, they no longer were, part
of a robber-band. In that case they would prove far more efficient
protectors than any regular soldiers could be, as in all probability
they kept up friendly intercourse with their old companions.
Edmond About, in that witty and entertaining work, "La Grèce
Contemporaine," gives one of his most amusing and clever descriptions,
when he represents the brigands and soldiers as being on such friendly
terms with each other that they take turns in claiming the victory in
the occasional little encounters that from time to time take place,
in order to keep up appearances, amicably dividing the spoil when
the affair is over.
After paying a visit to the consul's wife, a pretty little Venetian,
with two bright-eyed children, we mounted our horses, and passing
through the Greek suburb, descended the hill and turned towards
the mainland.
Soon after leaving the town, the country becomes barren, though the
soil itself seems rich, and would probably be exceedingly fertile
if well cultivated. Here and there were a few patches of corn, but
tobacco is the principal crop. Great bunches of the fragrant leaves
were hanging up to dry, suspended from poles in the middle of the
fields. The tobacco grown near the coast is considered remarkably
good, so we resolved to make some purchases for the benefit of smoking
friends at home, and bought a quantity of the very best the district
could produce for five piastres an oke. As there are eight piastres in
a shilling, and as an oke contains about two and a half English pounds,
it is hardly necessary to say how cheap this was. The same tobacco
costs in Constantinople from 70 to 100 piastres an oke. Under these
circumstances it seems wonderful that a regular trade should not be
established, but such is the inertness of the inhabitants that there
is no direct communication either with the capital or with Odessa,
only an occasional trader from time to time putting in here. There
are no roads from the town into the interior; only sufficient tobacco,
therefore, is grown to supply the neighbouring villages.
The country is undulating, and, cantering up a little slope, we found
ourselves on the summit of the cliffs that project into the western
bay. On three sides was the sea, on the fourth the magnificent chain of
mountains that run from the coast far into the interior of Asia Minor.
The day was wild and stormy; the sea broke with a deep, hollow roar
amongst the caverns of the rocks. Every now and then fierce gusts of
wind drove the clouds madly across the sky, but over the mountains
there lay a broad band of sunshine, lighting up the little upland
pastures, and making the patches of bright green still more vivid in
contrast with the dark shadow of the forests at their feet.
Riding along the cliffs we obtained an excellent view of the singular
position of Sinope. Built on a narrow strip of land, scarcely a quarter
of a mile broad, it commands the two bays, and overlooks for many miles
the undulating plain that stretches from the coast to the foot of the
mountains. In old times, when the town was fortified, it must have
been impregnable, both from sea and land; now the old castellated
walls are little more than ruins. One portion, the remains of an
ancient tower, said to have been part of the Palace of Mithridates,
is remarkably picturesque. The leafy branches of briers and hops now
trail across its old brickwork, and the tendrils of the wild caper
have clasped in tight embrace many a column and mass of sculptured
marble that lies lowly on the ground.
Ever since we have been here, notwithstanding the kind assistance
of both Pasha and consul, we have had the greatest difficulty in
procuring meat, bread, or milk. We were surprised therefore to see
outside the town patches of grass that would have afforded excellent
pasturage both for sheep and cattle. But it seems, in respect of cow
government, Sinope is a republic, every cow doing as seemeth good to
herself. She goes out in the morning when she likes, if in the evening
it is borne on her mind that she would like to be milked, she comes
home, but should her maternal feelings be weak, or should she wish to
call upon her friends at a distance, she does not return for a day
or two. Under these circumstances the supply of milk is precarious,
and as to the bread, it is of the most primitive description. A coarse,
dark-brown, nearly black meal is made into a paste by mixing it with a
little water. It is then rolled into thin sheets about the size of a
small round tea-table, and baked. When quite fresh this bread is not
unpalatable, though fearfully indigestible, but the great drawback is
that it is apt to get mouldy on the smallest provocation, and after
it has been made a few days requires scraping and rebaking before it
is possible to eat it.
Then, as to the butchers' meat, that is also a vain dream. There is a
tradition that once there was a butcher's shop in the town, but this
was in a time so long ago that even the oldest inhabitant does not
remember it. However, we are told that perhaps some day we may get a
wild boar, so we cheer ourselves with this hope, and try to think the
unvarying chickens are not so very thin nor so very tough, after all.