CIRCASSIA.
Having seen all that was to be seen in the immediate neighbourhood
of Yalta, it was unanimously agreed that the yacht should be put
in requisition, and that an expedition should be made to Oursouf,
a place on the coast, lately bought by Prince B----.
The day was fine, and the sea apparently smooth, but there was a
little ground-swell that made us somewhat anxious about the happiness
of our non-seafaring friends. Prince B---- was an old sailor, but his
wife such a bad one that she never ventured on board a vessel under
way. We were also very doubtful as to the sailing powers of Prince
T---- and his sister. Count and Countess N---- had sailed with us
before, and we knew they were proof, but we much feared the S----s
and G----s were doomed to suffer. However, with admirable courage,
all came on board at the time appointed, and we set sail.
While the wind lasted all went well, but unhappily about mid-day
the breeze dropped, and then, one after another, the poor ladies
fell victims to the levelling malady of sea-sickness, and the cabins
presented sad spectacles of suffering pleasure-seekers.
Most fortunately Prince T---- was not ill. Had he been so, we dared
not picture to ourselves what would have been his mental as well as
his physical sufferings, for he had come on board in a new and superb
Tartar costume! We were speechless with amazement as the resplendent
vision appeared on deck. Even our captain and Charlie could scarcely
maintain a dignified silence, but Prince B---- could not contain
his feelings. "Pourquoi le diable, T----, êtes-vous venu en costume
de bal?" burst involuntarily from his lips. Happily our guest was
ridicule-proof, for his toilette was the pride and happiness of his
life, and he frequently astonished the quiet inhabitants of Yalta by
appearing in four fresh suits a day. Only yesterday he had paid us
a visit in a complete costume of plaid. Coat, waistcoat, trousers,
linen, cap, even the pocket handkerchief, displayed the same somewhat
remarkable checked pattern. The unwonted and gorgeous toilette that
appeared to-day was, however, very little adapted for a nautical
expedition. Crimson satin trousers, a similar jacket, magnificently
embroidered in gold, and large loose sleeves made of fine cambric,
however beautiful in themselves, certainly seemed out of place on
the Black Sea, especially as the day was neither hot nor sunny. Our
poor friend's bare arms soon looked pinched and blue with cold, but
we dared not suggest either cloak or shawl for fear of injuring the
well-starched beauty of the transparent sleeves.
However, at last the sun came out from behind the clouds, the air
became warm, so did the poor arms, the breeze revived, the suffering
ladies got better and appeared on deck, and in due time we arrived
at Oursouf. It was a beautiful spot, quite close to the sea, and as
wild as it was beautiful.
On the slope of a neighbouring hill is Massandra, another property
belonging to the Woronzoff family. On another hill, called Anaka,
is a model nursery-garden, established by Count Woronzoff when he
was Governor of South Russia, and still kept up by Government. Every
description of tree, shrub, and flower that can be grown in the climate
is to be found in this nursery. Any one wishing to make vineyards,
plantations, or gardens can buy the plants, with the advantage of
learning the sort of tree, shrub, &c., which may be best adapted to
the soil for which they are required.
All this part of what may be called the Undercliff of the Crimea
seems peculiarly adapted for the culture of the vine. Sheltered by a
range of mountains, as well as by almost perpendicular cliffs, from
the keen north wind, the long slopes of rich soil seem to invite the
formation of vineyards. The grapes that are now produced are excellent,
and many sorts of wine have already been made.
Several of the Rhine wines have been so closely imitated--some even
say excelled--that sanguine persons predict that in time the Crimean
wines will rank higher than the Rhenish. Be that as it may, it seems
a pity that the Russian growers should be content in many instances
to give German names to their produce, instead of creating their own
class of wines.
A sort of liqueur, something like Constantia, is highly prized by
connoisseurs, but at present this is only produced in the private
vineyards of the Bariatinsky and Woronzoff families, and at Orianda,
and cannot be purchased.
Prince Woronzoff, who appears to have been a wise and enlightened
governor, had a favourite scheme for bringing large districts into
cultivation as vineyards. Unhappily, the war took place ere he could
put his project in execution, and the country is now so impoverished
and thrown back that it will be years before it can recover from
the shock.
Oursouf is a little Tartar town, built on the slope of a steep hill,
and close to an enormous rock, on the top of which are some ruins,
said to have been once a castle.
A few miles inland rises the grand mountain of the Acondagh, so called
from its outline being supposed to resemble a crouching bear. "Acon"
means bear; "dagh" signifies mountain. Clouds were flitting over the
summits of the range, so the likeness, if it existed, was invisible
to our eyes.
Prince B---- has bought a small property a few versts from the village,
and having lived much abroad, he intends building a perfect Italian
villa, so as to introduce a mode of architecture which he believes
will be remarkably well adapted both to the country and climate. At
present the foundations only have been dug, but should our good fortune
bring us here again in a few years, we hope to find our kind friend
established in his retired home.
To those who do not object to pitch their tents away from the haunts
of companionable man, this little estate offers every charm that can
well be desired. The scenery is as beautiful as it is magnificent.
A lovely little wooded glen runs up from the sea, far away into
the mountains, that gradually become steeper and steeper, until the
stately Tchatar-Dagh appears in the distance, its rugged sides partly
covered with forest, and its lofty peaks crowned with eternal snow.
A rapid stream winds its way through the valley, sometimes dashing
down in rapid cascades, then lingering in dark and shady pools, whose
banks seem the chosen home of every sort of beautiful fern. The Osmunda
regalis grows to a size almost unknown in England, and tufts of many
kinds of the delicate maiden-hair nestle between the stones wherever
the spray of the waterfalls can reach their feathery branches. In
the spring the lilies of the valley must carpet the ground. In some
sheltered spots we found several varieties of large white lilies,
and the autumnal cyclamen revels in the rich sandy soil.
Wild vines had climbed up many of the trees. The purple bunches looked
very beautiful amongst the foliage, but the wild vine is dangerous
in its close affection, and almost always destroys the poor tree that
it honours with its notice.
On returning to the beach, we found the boat surrounded by a crowd
of Tartars, who were looking at the sailors with mingled admiration
and awe.
The wind was fair for the little home-voyage, but though the sea was
not really rough, still there was sufficient movement to make some of
our poor friends very miserable, and it was a relief to all parties
when they were once more safely landed at Yalta. Those who were not ill
remained on board for supper, whist, and music; and to our surprise,
amongst these good sailors was the wearer of the Tartar costume.
It blew fresh all night, and a bank of heavy, dark clouds to windward
warned us that better shelter must be sought than can be found at
Yalta. Unfortunately there is no roadstead here, and the anchorage
is by no means secure.
Our captain has been very restless and uneasy for the last two days,
and can find no charms in a place where half-a-dozen anchors, as he
says, would not hold the yacht should it come on to blow. So to-night
we are to say good-bye to all our kind friends, to the green fields
and to the pretty villas at Yalta.
Pleasant, cheerful little place, in all probability we shall never
see you again, but amongst all the sunny memories our rovings have
given us, few will be more sunny, more smiling than the remembrance
of our days with you.
We spent the last day on shore with our friends happily, though
somewhat sadly, and when we parted in the evening bore away with us
not only the remembrance of many affectionate words, but a little
souvenir from each of the kind hearts who had given such a sincere
welcome to their English friends.
We left Yalta on the night of the 13th of September, with a fresh,
favourable breeze. About seven o'clock on the morning of the 16th,
the worthy Domenico came knocking at all the cabin doors. "La terra,
Eccellenza; si vede alfine la terra." The good news brought us speedily
on deck.
A lovely day and a smooth sea welcomed us to Circassia. How often we
had talked about this enchanting, but far distant country--how often
we had longed to see it, never imagining that such a wild dream could
ever be realised; and now, before us, bright in the light of a fresh,
dewy morning, lay our land of promise--the true "land of the citron
and myrtle."
There are some things so beautiful that one shrinks from describing
them. Words cannot paint the loveliness that is seen by the eye. To say
that we saw before us a country that possessed, with the tender charm
of English woodland scenery, the rich glow of the Italian landscape,
and the grand majesty of Alpine ranges, gives but a feeble idea
of the delicious beauty of the land we were gazing on. The light,
the colouring, the exquisite effect of the soft mists as they slowly
arose from the valleys, can be better imagined than described, but
as we looked, we thought, Here is a land where Nature has in truth
perfected her handiwork!
The yacht was moving gently on, there was barely a ripple on the water,
and, seemingly, we were within a stone's throw of the shore. A little
sandy beach ran along the edge of the sea, then rose banks all mossy
and ferny, with undulating grass-fields and conical hills, with great
clumps of oak and beech trees scattered about. Then came a region
of dark fir-woods, mingled with the tender green of the weeping
birches. Farther away still were steep hills and rugged mountains,
their sides all covered with vast forests, stretching away far as
the eye could reach, whilst above their dark shaggy masses rose the
majestic peaks of a distant range, glistening white in their dazzling
covering of eternal snow. Cattle and sheep were wandering over the
rich pastures, but peaceful as the country appeared, peace is, in
reality, the blessing most unknown to it. War is constantly raging,
and the smiling plain and pretty thickets before us have been the
scene of many a fierce struggle.
We longed to land. The boat was being lowered for the purpose, when
luckily for us, as we afterwards discovered, a breeze sprang up,
and we continued our course towards Soukoum-Kalé. Had we gone on
shore, in all probability we should have been taken prisoners by the
hostile Circassians (who hold this part of the country), carried up
into the mountains, and compelled to pay a considerable sum before
our involuntary sojourn amongst them had ended.
A species of guerilla warfare is incessantly going on between the
inhabitants in these remote parts and the Russians. The former
consider all Europeans as enemies, and though the Russians are
nominally masters of the country, the Circassians still possess
amongst the mountains some strongholds that are almost impregnable.
Whenever they have a chance, they make captures, on account of the
ransoms they usually obtain. Should the prisoner be of any importance,
he generally prefers paying a moderate sum, rather than endure months
of miserable imprisonment. As to the common soldiers, they are usually
shot, their value being but small.
Had we been made prisoners, it would, of course, have been possible to
appeal both to the English and Russian Governments; but the journeys
to and from Constantinople and St. Petersburg are very long, and as
it would require some weeks to procure the necessary money, we should
have had to lead a wretched existence amongst the mountains, making
more experiences about wild Circassian life than would probably have
pleased us.
There is an English consul at Soukoum, established since the Crimean
war, but it is almost an honorary appointment, as Soukoum has no trade;
and though Mr. D---- has deservedly the greatest influence amongst
the Russians, he is powerless as regards the insurgent Circassians,
and even had the Russian general sent troops to our assistance,
what can soldiers do against wandering bands, who have no homes,
nothing to lose, and whose simple wants are supplied by the natural
products of the country?
Near the sea-shore is a very curious old church, called Pitsunda,
standing quite alone miles away from any fort, or even traces of
village. Tradition says it was built during the reign of Constantine,
but nothing certain is known as to its origin. It was, however,
repaired towards the latter end of the thirteenth century, and just
before the last war with Turkey commenced, the Russians had made
preparations for restoring it completely. Fine stone and marble
had been brought from a considerable distance for the purpose,
and we could see some partially-worked blocks still lying around. A
magnificent cross in white marble, that had retained many traces of
the rich sculpture of the fifteenth century, fell a victim to the
fanaticism of the Turks. They shattered it into a thousand pieces,
besides defacing the interior of the building as much as possible.
Even the Circassians (who are supposed to have no religion) had always
respected this church, and it is really grievous that so fine a relic
of antiquity should be falling into ruins.
As the day drew to its close the little breeze dropped, and the sea
rested so calmly in its deep tranquillity, that not a ripple disturbed
its mirror-like surface. The very forests appeared to be slumbering in
the sun. A pile of light fleecy clouds that had been slowly flitting
about all day changed to a soft crimson, and floated on a sky that
shaded from intense blue to the most brilliant rose-colour. Then a
shower of gold seemed to fall, and the clouds changed into a long
veil of pink vapour, that hung lightly, like a scarf, over the snowy
peaks of the distant mountains.
As we watched this lovely shade, the sun sank below the horizon,
a blaze of golden light shot up, the sea became deep purple, the
snow-mountains gradually lost their rosy glow, and an unearthly
pallor--beautiful, yet awfully like death--stole gently over the long
line of peaks, growing paler and paler, until at length darkness hid
the shore from our sight.