VALLEY OF TCHERNAIA.
Not being at all satisfied with only having seen the fair valley of
Tchernaia in the gloom of rain and wind, we resolved to try whether
the glow of a fine summer day would not heighten its charms. One
warm sunny morning, therefore, we put a basket of provisions and a
Russian dictionary in the yacht's cutter, and set off to breakfast
under the trees in a pleasant grass field beyond Inkerman. The wind
was contrary, so we had to row across the harbour, and for about
a mile up the river Tcherné; it then became favourable, and strong
enough to enable us to stem the little current, so, setting a sail,
we glided up the stream most pleasantly and rapidly.
Grèbe, divers, and other water-fowl were continually darting in and
out of the masses of reeds that grew along the banks, and at a sudden
turn of the river a great eagle, probably disturbed at his morning
meal, rose slowly in the air, and sailed away majestically towards
the mountains.
It was very early; the morning breeze was deliciously cool and fresh,
and as we lazily reclined on our comfortable seats, listening to the
soft sound of the water as it rippled against the bows of the boat,
or to the merry voices of the children as they chattered to their
favourite Domenico, it seemed as if life could offer nothing pleasanter
than to be thus gliding away in the summer sunshine towards unknown
scenes and beauties. Whatever might have been the worthy Domenico's
faults with respect to his masters, he was admired and adored by
every child who came near him.
He had an art, quite peculiar to himself, for turning everything he
saw into something not intended by nature. Leaves, flowers, sticks,
stalks, became astonishing musical instruments after passing through
his cunning hands, and he would weave rushes, leaves, and flowers into
garlands, baskets, and a variety of pretty things, with a rapidity
and skill that was quite marvellous, and of course to the intense
delight of the little folk around him. His pipes and whistles, also,
blew better and with greater shrillness than any pipes and whistles
that ever were known. Should occasion require he could be an admirable
cook; he could sing buffo songs with a talent worthy of San Carlino
itself; he could make clothes; he could improvise clever verses; but
unfortunately his inspirations would come to him at unlucky moments,
and while he was meditating a stanza more sublime than usual a pile
of plates or dishes would fall from his hands, and his soaring spirit
would be brought back to earth by an energetic remonstrance on his
carelessness.
Happily he had not been in a poetic vein when he packed the breakfast
basket. The only thing omitted was some fruit, a want that was
soon supplied, for we passed a small house where the trellises were
absolutely laden with grapes, and we bought a large basket of them
for something under half a rouble.
We continued our course up the river, passing between water-meadows
that had quite a park-like appearance from some fine old trees that
had happily escaped destruction. The many ranges of hills also that
could be seen as the valley opened were very beautiful, for though
hardly lofty enough to deserve the name of mountains, the line of the
more distant was rugged and bold, and in the clear atmosphere tier
upon tier could be seen, till the last faded away in the blue distance.
While we went to look at the ruined village of Inkerman the sail
was taken in, and as, owing to the large beds of rushes, the stream
was rapidly narrowing, we took to the oars again, until we arrived
opposite a small church and a few little houses that had been hewn
out of the cliff itself.
The Tcherné divides here into several channels, all too shallow for
the boat, so we landed, and establishing ourselves under some large
trees, found a pleasant shelter from the sun, whose rays had now
become both fierce and overpowering. We spread our breakfast on the
grass, close to a delicious little ford, where the water, quite put
out of temper by the impeding stones, dashed and tossed itself about
in sparkles of brilliant rage. At length, throwing itself down in a
fierce little set of passionate cascades, it recovered its calmness,
and quietly subsided into the gentle stream beneath. Can anything be
more beautiful than such a stream? and what delight greater than to
rest thus under the shadow of great trees, watching the sunshine as
it plays on bank, and tree, and meadow, and to know also one is far
away from the working, weary troubles and pleasures of the world?
Seated on the warm, dry turf, we passed a couple of hours very
luxuriously, and somewhat idly. In fact, some of the party indulged
in a little slumber, a weakness quite to be forgiven, for the day and
place seemed alike made for repose. Not a breath stirred the air,
the leaves hung motionless on the trees, the bees hummed drowsily
among the flowers. The very birds were silent, the reed-sparrow alone
sending forth her monotonous piping note from some neighbouring bushes,
and the tinkling sound of the falling water made the most soothing
music imaginable. However, after a time we crossed the stream by
means of the little ford, and ascended the cliff to the church
and village; but church and houses were alike deserted. The door
of the former was locked and the houses were empty. Not a soul was
to be seen anywhere. We hunted about some time in hopes of finding
the key--for we had been told the chapel was well worth seeing,
and contained some curious old pictures--but in vain. The door was
so old and shaky that a vigorous blow would have broken it open,
but not thinking so felonious a mode of entrance suitable to the
character of the edifice, we walked back towards Inkerman by a path
that gave us beautiful views of the valley and mountains.
The village of Inkerman no longer exists; a few blackened walls alone
mark its site.
The battle was fought on the rising ground immediately above the
valley, and the earth still retains many memorials of the bloody
strife. Half buried in the soil, close to a low wall, we found part
of a broken sword; and any number of flattened bullets, buttons,
and portions of soldiers' decorations could be easily had by digging
up the earth with parasol handles or sticks. On the highest point
has been placed a simple stone monument to the memory of all the
combatants who fell in that terrible struggle. English, French,
and Russians there share alike in the honour of that fatal day;
and truly a soldier's glory seems but a very little thing.
A short walk along the rising ground brought us to all that is now
left of the Malakoff. There are two ditches round it, but neither of
them is as deep as that which surrounds the Redan. The fort itself,
however, is very much larger, and in the centre are the ruins of a low,
flat tower. It was originally bomb-proof, but the French blew it up
when they obtained possession, and now barely half of the building
remains standing.
The Malakoff so completely overlooks and commands the town that even
the non-combatant can perceive how useless must have been any attempt
to hold Sevastopol when once this, the key as it were to the position,
was in possession of the allies. Those who held the Malakoff and the
Redan had virtually Sevastopol, for shot and shell from these forts
could be poured like hail into the devoted town. These two great
outposts lost by the Russians, all further struggle on their part
must have been hopeless.
Count K---- tells us that in fact Prince Menschikoff had resolved to
evacuate the town, and retire to the north side, when the Quarries and
the Mamelon had fallen into the hands of the allies; and he would have
done so before the attack on the Malakoff was made, but for positive
orders from St. Petersburg to hold the town as long as possible.
As far as we could judge, the general opinion amongst the Russian
officers was that the chief error Russia committed was in allowing the
allies to land undisturbed. Probably subsequent events confirmed their
views, but all seemed to think, had the French and English met with
a vigorous resistance when they disembarked, Sevastopol would never
have been invested. Unhappily for them, the higher authorities at
St. Petersburg were so firmly convinced that Sevastopol and her forts
were impregnable, that it was hoped, could the allies be led on to make
an attack upon the outworks, that not only would they be repulsed,
but that the annihilation of the whole invading army would be the
necessary consequence. Those generals who knew the place, and who had
some doubts as to the "impossibility" of taking it from the land side,
were not listened to. Any attack from the sea must have been in vain.
Notwithstanding the kindness of our friends--notwithstanding the
fineness of the weather (for we had but few rainy days during the many
weeks we passed at Sevastopol), we longed to leave the place. Words
cannot adequately express the profound gloom and depression that
weigh down the spirits after any lengthened residence in the town
of death. At first, the great interest of seeing a place become
so famous in history, the excitement of visiting spot after spot
renowned for deeds of chivalrous daring unequalled in modern times,
support the mind; but, after a time, the one story told by every house,
by every field, by every grave--of untimely death, of man's love of
destruction, and of man's lust for blood--oppresses the heart with
a weight of sadness that becomes almost unendurable.
Our favourite walk on many a bright summer's evening was to stroll up
to the Redan, and there we would seat ourselves on a little grassy
mound, the last resting-place probably of a dead man, and gaze on
the destroyed city below.
The larks would be singing gaily over our heads, the crickets chirping
around; but if we pushed away the grass, or disturbed the earth ever
so little, how many records would meet the eye of the deadly strife
that had raged on the very spot where we were now so quietly seated,
while the extraordinary, almost awful silence of the great city made
one indeed feel that it was now but a city of tombs.
A little below us, on the right, stand the once lordly Alexandra
barracks--a building at one time unequalled of its kind in grandeur and
extent. Now the bare walls alone remain; the sky can be seen through
the long lines of windows. In lieu of roof, a few blackened rafters
project here and there, like monstrous gibbets, and the masses of
débris around show how thoroughly the work of destruction has been
carried out.
It is beyond measure depressing to walk through miles of ruined
streets; and, if so painful to the stranger, how heartbreaking must
it be to Russians, to see beautiful buildings, once the pride of the
country, hopelessly defaced and destroyed.
The water-gate by which we land when coming from the yacht must once
have been a great ornament to the beautiful town, for it is still
lovely even in its ruin. It resembles the colonnade of an ancient Greek
temple, and is approached by a broad flight of shallow steps. These,
however, as well as the fine mosaic pavement, have been broken and
defaced, the roof has been battered in by shells, the statues have
been overthrown and broken, and scarcely a column remains uninjured.
Near this gate is the opera-house, or rather what is left of it. It was
formerly a large building with a long Greek façade; but the walls are
now shattered, and blackened by fire, and the columns and decorations
lie broken on the ground.
The hospital is almost the only place that has not suffered severely
from the effects of the fiery hail that was so incessantly pouring
into the town. A flag showed where the unhappy wounded were lying,
and as far as possible the building was spared by the besiegers;
still its scorched and blackened sides and some yawning holes tell
that it did not altogether escape.
Near it is a small chapel, now almost a ruin, a sad memento of the
sufferings of some of our poor fellows. Towards the latter end of the
siege, space, air, attendants, and surgical aid were all lamentably
inefficient to supply even the pressing needs of the masses of wounded
who were brought in.
During the last few days also the confusion that reigned in the town
almost overcame discipline. No sooner was the evacuation decided
upon than orders were given that, not only were the Russian wounded
to be conveyed immediately to the north side, but that all valuables
that could not be removed at the same time were to be burnt during
the last night, not only to prevent them from falling into the hands
of the enemy, but that the smoke should conceal the movements of the
Russians; for this reason also many portions of the town were set on
fire. It may easily be imagined, therefore, that there was but little
time or attention given to the unhappy wounded of the enemy who were
to be left behind; so, when the allies entered the deserted city,
terrible were some of the scenes that met their eyes. In this very
chapel a harrowing sight was beheld, for many of our poor countrymen
were lying here unheeded and untended, yet alive, with the dead in
heaps around them.
The harbour of Sevastopol is supposed to be unequalled for size,
depth of water, and security. It very much resembles Plymouth in the
number of arms that branch off from the main channel. The entrance
is so broad and easy of access that vessels can run in for shelter
with almost any wind, and when inside the forts the various channels
are so completely landlocked that ships can lie in perfect safety
whatever sea may rage outside.
The navigation within is, however, now somewhat difficult, as the
Russians sank nearly all the vessels then in port when the English
fleet appeared before Sevastopol, and though most of the wrecks have
been raised, still enough remain to require skilful pilotage to avoid
the hidden dangers.
The only cheerful place in all Sevastopol (out-of-door cheerfulness,
that is--not the many friendly houses that were always open to us)
was a small promenade, consisting of the ghost of once beautiful
pleasure-gardens, where the band played on fine evenings.
Here the few people left in Sevastopol would assemble at sunset to
listen to the excellent music and enjoy the cool evening air. As night
came on the scene would be very pretty. Darkness hid the ruins around,
so that the stars seemed only to shine on glistening white monuments;
the lights from the vessels in the harbour quivered like lines of
silver as they were reflected in the gently rippling water; and when
at last the whole glory of heaven was unfolded, the dark-blue arch
above seemed one dazzling array of brilliant stars.
Those who have not seen them can form no idea of the glorious beauty
of the nights in these southern countries. The stars do not twinkle,
they blaze with bright silver light, and the eye in vain endeavours
to penetrate the glittering maze of which the heavens seem formed.
We find that this summer is considered at Sevastopol rather hotter than
the average, but we have seldom found the heat very oppressive. The
sun is powerful during the day, and often beats fiercely upon the dry,
parched soil. It is well therefore, if possible, to avoid exposing
oneself to the great heat of midday; but at sunset the fresh sea-breeze
always sets in, and the nights are cool and invigorating.
Amongst the many advantages yachtsmen enjoy over travellers by land is
the inestimable one of being nearly always sure of a breeze at night,
and none but those who have travelled much in warm climates can tell
how great that blessing is. Fatigue and heat during the day can well be
borne when one is sure of a quiet and refreshing sleep. Another comfort
also is comparative freedom from mosquitoes and flies. How often when
we have been doomed to spend the night in some wretched inn or house,
half-stifled by the heat and bad smells, tormented beyond endurance
by swarms of mosquitoes, sand-flies, fleas, or perhaps worse, have we
sighed for the little cabins with their comfortable elastic mattresses,
the fresh clean sheets, and the cool night wind that would have been
fanning us as we rocked in our dear Claymore!
Having once found ourselves in Malta during the hot months of July
and August, and having felt great compassion for the unfortunate
English soldiers as they marched up and down, under a blazing sun,
in all the misery and magnificence of the tight regulation scarlet
coat, with their throats braced up by a stiff collar, we much admired
the simple and comfortable uniform worn during summer by the Russian
troops. The men have a complete suit of grey cotton, with peaked caps
of the same material. The officers wear white jean, with a band of
scarlet round their caps, and sometimes a sash of the same colour.