THE HOUR OF PRAYER.
There is much that is both grand and poetical in many of the practices
of the Mohammedan religion; and few things strike the stranger more
than the frequent calls to prayer that resound at certain hours of
the day from every minaret of the city.
The formula used is simple, but heart-stirring: "Allah akbar! Allah
akbar! Great God! Great God! There is no God but God! I declare that
Mohammed is the apostle of God! O great Redeemer! O Ruler of the
universe! Great God! Great God! There is no God but God."
This is chanted by the muezzin in a loud but musical voice as he
walks slowly around the minaret, thus summoning from every portion
of the globe the faithful to join him in holy prayer.
At sunrise, at mid-day, at three o'clock, and again at nine, the sacred
cry re-echoes above the city, and every true believer as it reaches
his ear prostrates himself with his face towards Mecca, exclaiming:
"There is no power, no might, but in God Almighty."
All who can, perform their devotions in the mosques, although
earnest prayer is quite as efficacious when made in a house or by
the road-side.
One Friday, having provided ourselves with the necessary firman,
we repaired to Santa Sophia, and arrived there a few minutes before
the hour of mid-day prayer. Franks are now admitted into the mosque,
but have to put on slippers over their boots, that they may not defile
the exquisite cleanliness of the floor. As the service was about to
begin, we went up to one of the galleries, and from thence had a good
general view of the interior.
Nothing could be more simple. There was as little decoration as would
be found in a low-church Protestant chapel. A few ostrich eggs and some
large candelabra hung from the roof, but all the Christian paintings
and ornaments have been destroyed or defaced. The figures and the six
wings of the famous cherubim can still be seen faintly traced on the
dome, but the faces of the angels have been covered with golden plates,
as the Turks interpret very literally the commandment against idolatry.
Although there was but little to see in the mosque itself apart from
its historical associations, the vast assemblage of worshippers that
nearly filled its spacious area was most interesting to behold.
Stamboul (in which quarter is Santa Sophia) is now principally
inhabited by old-fashioned Turks, and by large colonies of
Circassians. Many of the worshippers, therefore, wore the flowing robe
and stately turban now nearly banished from the more fashionable parts
of the town. The Circassians also were habited in their picturesque
national costume, and it would be impossible to see anywhere men more
dignified or noble in appearance than these poor exiles.
The service is impressive from its grand simplicity. As the hour
of noon is proclaimed, the Imaun places himself before a small
niche called the Mihrab, that points towards Mecca, and in a loud
voice proclaims, "Allah akbar! Allah akbar!" The congregation arise,
respond with the same words, and the cry seems, like a mighty wave,
to roll backward and forward through the vast space.
Every man then turns his eyes humbly to the ground as the Imaun
recites the Fatiha or Lord's Prayer:
"In the name of the most merciful God; praise be to God the Lord of all
creatures, the most merciful, the Lord of the Day of Judgment. Thee
do we worship, and of Thee do we beg help, direct us in the right
way. Direct us in the way of those to whom Thou hast been gracious;
not of those against whom thou art incensed, nor of those who go
astray. Ameen, ameen!"
The congregation then prostrate themselves repeatedly in acknowledgment
of the Almighty's power and might. A chapter of the Koran is read,
followed by more prostrations, with another prayer in which the
worshippers join. Then the Imaun calls out in a loud voice that each
man is to make his private prayer, and the solemn silence and perfect
quiet that ensues is most impressive.
Prayers were now over, and those who wished retired. The remainder
approached nearer a small pulpit into which another Imaun mounted,
who, seated cross-legged on a cushion, commenced an exposition of
some portion of the Koran.
No women had hitherto been present during the service, but a few now
entered and seated themselves behind the men.
When we walked round the mosque to examine it in detail, we were
shown the mark said to have been made by the hand of Sultan Mahmoud
when he placed it upon one of the great columns in token that he
took possession of the stronghold of the Christian faith. As the
spot indicated, however, is at least fifteen feet from the ground,
we permitted ourselves to doubt the accuracy of the statement.
After leaving Santa Sophia we passed through the largest square in
Constantinople, called Ak' Meidan, or the "place of meat." Here it
was that the Janissaries were put to death by the orders of Sultan
Mahmoud. This wholesale massacre, fearful as it was, and cruel as
it seemed, nevertheless delivered Turkey from one of its greatest
scourges, for such was the rapacity, the cruelty, and the overbearing
insolence of these famous troops, that no man's life or property was
safe for an hour, and the whole country groaned under a tyranny more
oppressive than any it had ever known.
After Santa Sophia, the finest mosque in Constantinople is that of
Sultan Ahmed. It is a large and handsome building; its six tall,
graceful minarets giving much beauty to the exterior, whilst the
interior is chiefly remarkable for the eleven gigantic columns that
support the roof. The mosque possesses some very fine Korans all richly
bound in velvet, some of them even encrusted with pearls and precious
stones. There is also a magnificent collection of jewelled cups that
have been presented by various sultans and by many rich pashas.
When we issued forth from the cool freshness of the shady mosque, the
burning glare of the sun seemed doubly oppressive. We were thankful
even to climb into the little telega that was awaiting us; fleas and
tight squeezing seeming slight evils compared with the scorching heat
and blinding vividness of the sun's rays.
When we halted at the beautiful fountain of Ahmed the Third, never
did water and marble look more delicious and refreshing.
This celebrated fountain is one of the most beautiful little
buildings in Constantinople. It is an octagon made of white marble, the
projecting roof extending far beyond the walls. Where gilt lattice-work
has not been let into the sides they are covered with inscriptions
in gold letters, extolling the virtues of the treasure it contains;
for the waters of the Fountain of Ahmed are said to excel in freshness
and purity even those of the Holy Well of the Prophet at Mecca, and
have been in many poems compared to the Sacred Fount whose eternal
spring has its rise in Paradise itself.
On a little marble slab outside the building are arranged rows of
brass cups full of the fresh water so precious to the hot and weary
passenger in Constantinople.
As we lingered in the grateful shade, thankful to escape, even
for a few minutes, from the scorching heat, two poor hamals came
staggering down the street, bent nearly double beneath their terrible
loads. With almost a groan of relief they came beneath the shelter
of the projecting roof, and, dropping their packs, seated themselves
on the fresh, cool marble pavement. It was now three o'clock, and,
pouring a few cups of water over their hands and feet, they prostrated
themselves towards Mecca, and remained an instant in silent prayer.
These poor fellows, notwithstanding their galling toil, are a merry,
contented race of people. From dawn to sunset they work like beasts
of burden, and are satisfied with food that would kill an English
workman in a week. Our two neighbours each pulled a very small bit of
black bread from his pocket, got a slice of melon from an adjacent
fruit stall, and this slender fare, washed down by a few cups of
water, made their dinner for the day. The repast, slight as it was,
was eaten with a cheerfulness and satisfaction that might have been
envied by many a gourmand.
At sunset, however, they feel themselves amply repaid for the fatigues
of the day if they can but gain enough to indulge in an infinite
number of cups of the strongest coffee, which, with the soothing pipe,
gives them strength to sustain their prodigious toil.
One ought to visit the East to appreciate, to its full extent, the
blessing of an abundance of fresh and pure water. No wonder that the
Prophet says that he who bestows the treasure of a fountain on his
fellow-men shall be sustained by the supporting hand of the Angel
of Mercy as he traverses the perilous bridge made of a single hair,
by which alone the gates of Paradise can be reached.
Fresh springs of water, also, are doubly dear to the hearts of the
faithful, as by the direct miracle of sending water in the wilderness
was the life of Ishmael saved when Sarai succeeded in having the
child and his mother Hagar banished from the tents of Abraham.
Wandering far into the recesses of the desert, the small bottle of
water with which she had been provided speedily became empty, and the
sorrowing and forsaken woman found herself in the terrible wilderness
alone, and far from the aid of man. She placed her hapless infant
beneath some shrubs, and, retiring to a distance that she might not
see the little creature die, the unhappy mother lifted up her voice
and wept.
But when was the Almighty deaf to the cry of the afflicted and
oppressed? He hears when men's ears and hearts are closed; and, swift
as thought, the Angel of Compassion, that watches day and night at
the foot of God's throne, sped from his heavenly post and touched
the barren earth. The faint flutter of the angel's wings roused the
poor mother from her grief: she turned and beheld, gushing brightly
from the rock, the stream whose crystal waters brought salvation to
herself and to her child.
Although it is the custom to inveigh energetically against the folly
of seeing too many sights at once, yet old travellers know full well
that no town is really enjoyable until all the wonders of it have
been visited.
Then, and not till then, is there rest for mind and body, as, all
necessary sights seen, the traveller can seek again the especial
objects of his fancy, and in peace and ease make more intimate
acquaintance with the scenes of nature, or of art, that have the most
charm for him.
Most people, probably, will acknowledge that the former have a
considerable supremacy over the latter in Constantinople. There are
no picture-galleries, and, excepting some of the mosques, a few
palaces, and the Seraglio, there are few buildings to interest a
lover of architecture.
The Seraglio, however, is well worth a visit, for, though neither
grand, nor beautiful, it is interesting in many ways; and the position
it occupies on rising ground at the entrance of the Golden Horn
(thus commanding the Bosphorus both east and west) makes the views
from its gardens quite unequalled in beauty.
The summer was unusually hot, so that it was often quite an effort to
tear ourselves away from the cool rooms and delightful garden of the
Embassy at Therapia, where we were staying, and undertake a regular
afternoon of sight-seeing, especially also as it was necessary to
go to Stamboul, or Pera, in one of the hot little steamers that ply
incessantly up and down the Bosphorus.
One intensely hot day, however, we set off for the Seraglio, and
the thermometer being at any number of degrees, and the deck of the
steamer so crowded that there was barely standing room, we arrived
at the gate of the Palace in a very exhausted state. When we entered
the first court therefore, and found ourselves under the shade of
a gigantic plane-tree, a faint breeze every now and then rustling
amongst the leaves, the change was so pleasant that we thought we
would give up sight seeing, and stay there till night.
Not only was the cool shade very grateful to our feelings, but the
pretty scene before us was very pleasant to the eyes. Beneath the
tree was a small fountain, its stream trickling into a shallow marble
basin, and on its brink were seated groups of gaily-dressed women,
chattering merrily as they ate melon and sweetmeats.
Having never been in Spain, we are ignorant of the witching grace
bestowed upon the fair or unfair Spaniard by the magic folds of the
mantilla; but not having had that good fortune, we all agreed that
no head-dress is so becoming to the female face as the Turkish veil,
worn as it is arranged at Constantinople.
Great art and much consideration are bestowed upon the arrangement
of the folds; and in this respect a lady of Constantinople is as
much superior to her Eastern compeers as a "lionne" in Paris would
be above her provincial rivals.
So coquettishly is the transparent muslin folded over the nose and
mouth, so tenderly does it veil the forehead, that the delicate cloud
seems but to heighten and increase each charm. Far, very far is it
from hiding the features from the profaning gaze of man, as was so
savagely ordained by Mohammed.
Nose, mouth, and forehead being thus softly shadowed, the great
luminous eyes shine out with doubled brilliancy and effect.
It is some consolation to Frank ladies to know that, excepting that
never-to-be-sufficiently praised veil, Turkish out-door costume is
absolutely hideous.
A large loose cloak called a "feredje" is thrown over the in-door
dress, and this is so long that it has to be gathered up in front when
the wearer walks, thus giving her the appearance of a moving bag or
bundle. The huge, unshapely yellow boots also give a very ungainly
appearance. Some of the fashionable ladies, however, are discarding
these ugly over-alls, and are adopting French boots without heels.
Near the wall were drawn up "arabas" waiting for the ladies, and very
magnificent "turn-outs" they were.
An araba is a native carriage that is much used by women, as it easily
contains eight or ten persons. In shape it is something between a
char-à-banc and a waggon, but is without springs. It is generally
very gaily decorated and painted, and is comfortably cushioned
inside. The top is covered with a thick red, green, or blue cloth
that is fringed with gold. The white oxen that draw the carriages
are generally beautiful creatures, and are also brilliantly adorned
with red trappings and tassels, and have sometimes their foreheads
painted bright pink or blue.
After a time our exhausted bodies became somewhat refreshed, and
our crushed minds began to revive, and to face more courageously
the duties of the day; so at last, summoning a strong resolution,
we rushed across the hot court and over another burning "place,"
where the gravel felt as if it had been baked in an oven, and found
ourselves in the Imperial armoury.
It was formerly an old chapel, and the remains of a great white marble
cross at one end seemed to rebuke the desecration it is suffering.
There are some magnificent scimitars, made of the finest Damascus
steel, and some of the hilts and scabbards are of gold, thickly
encrusted with precious stones, but beyond these valuable decorations
the collection of arms did not appear to be of much value. There are
some hundreds of old matchlocks of an obsolete form, and probably of
doubtful utility.
Amongst the curiosities are shown the Bells of Santa Sophia when it
was a Christian church, the ancient keys of Constantinople, and the
gorgeous scimitar of Sultan Mahmoud.
The Palace is but an assemblage of small buildings joined together
by passages, and added to, from time to time, by successive sovereigns.
We passed through many large rooms or saloons, very handsome as to
size, and richly ornamented with painting and gilding; but we thought
them too low for their length, a defect that is increased by the
heavy decorations of the ceilings.
There was but little furniture--only a few hard chairs besides the
usual divan, and sometimes a console table with a French clock upon it.
Some of the smaller rooms were painted in arabesques, and had portières
of blue or red satin over the doors.
From the position of the Palace, however, the views from the great
recesses, full of windows, were quite enchanting.
A long low passage, hung with indifferent French and English
prints, representing naval battles, storms at sea, &c., led to the
bath-rooms--a pretty little set of apartments, with domed ceilings,
beautifully fretted and painted.
The Sultan, however, has long ceased to reside here, and only comes
on certain stated occasions, such as after the feast of the Bairam.
The grand procession from the mosque on that day is a magnificent
pageant.
A crowd of court pages, resplendent with gold embroidery and brilliant
dresses, precede the monarch, who, mounted on a matchless snow-white
Arabian steed, rides slowly on, surrounded by all the great dignitaries
of the Empire. The Pashas, habited in their state uniforms, are a
mass of gold and precious stones, their saddles and the trappings of
their horses being equally gorgeous.
Amidst all the magnificence of this group the Sultan alone is dressed
with simplicity. He wears a dark frock coat with but little embroidery
about it; but on the front of his fez and on the hilt of his sword
blaze the enormous diamonds that are the pride of the Imperial
treasury, while the housings of his Arab are almost hidden by the
pearls and precious stones by which they are adorned.
On arriving at the Seraglio the Sultan proceeds to the throne-room,
and there receives all his great officers of state. Ambassadors and
foreign ministers are received at other times.
The Sultan goes in state to the mosque every Friday, and when he
is then passing through the streets his people may approach him to
present petitions.
The "temennah," as the ordinary mode of salutation is termed, is a
very graceful gesticulation. The hand is bent towards the ground, as
if to take up the hem of the superior's garment, and then pressed on
the heart, forehead, and lips, to signify both humility and affection.
To call the pleasure-grounds that surround the Seraglio gardens, is a
misnomer according to the European idea of what a garden should be, for
there is scarcely a flower to be seen. They are a series of beautiful
wildernesses, where the nightingales sing from the tangled thickets,
and where each turn in the pathway, each opening amongst the trees,
discloses some enchanting view, either of the bright blue Bosphorus,
or of the misty grey of the distant mountains, or gives a peep of
the city itself, whose innumerable domes and minarets rise dazzlingly
white above the dark masses of cypress, their gilded crescents flashing
brightly in the brilliant sunshine.
The soft rustling of the breeze amongst the trees, the sweet scent
of the cypresses and flowering shrubs, all invited to a halt, and we
seated ourselves on a piece of old wall, and idly watched the caïques
as they glided across the Bosphorus.
Near us was a low gateway projecting over the sea, and in olden times
its portals never opened, save when the sack was borne forth, that
contained sometimes the living body of those odalisks whose conduct
had not been sans reproche. In later years it is believed that
these unhappy women were taken to a fortress called Roumel-Hissei,
or Castles in Europe, and there strangled. Their bodies, sewn up in
a sack, were then thrown into the middle of the stream, where the
strength of the current would rapidly carry them out to sea. At any
rate, whatever their punishment, the extent of it is never known
beyond the walls of the Imperial Harem.
The flocks of little birds that are seen skimming so rapidly and so
restlessly over the waves of the Bosphorus, are supposed by the Turks
to be the souls of these unfortunates, who, for their great sin, are
for ever condemned to seek in vain the lover who had led them astray.