The sugar-cane allows of no shade. Therefore the groves and avenues must

fall. To make its culture profitable, it must be raised in the largest

possible quantities that the extent of land will permit. To attempt the

raising of fruit, or of the ornamental woods, is bad economy for the

sugar planter. Most of the fruits, especially the orange, which is the

chief export, ripen in the midst of the sugar season, and no hands can

be spared to attend to them. The sugar planter often buys the fruits he

needs for daily use and for making preserves, from the neighboring

cafetals. The cane ripens but once a year. Between the time when enough

of it is ripe to justify beginning to work the mill, and the time when

the heat and rains spoil its qualities, all the sugar-making of the year

must be done. In Louisiana, this period does not exceed eight weeks. In

Cuba it is full four months. This gives Cuba a great advantage. Yet

these four months are short enough; and during that time, the

steam-engine plies and the furnace fires burn night and day.

Sugar-making brings with it steam, fire, smoke, and a drive of labor,

and admits of and requires the application of science. Managed with

skill and energy, it is extremely productive. Indifferently managed, it

may be a loss. The sugar estate is not valuable, like the coffee estate,

for what the land will produce, aided by ordinary and quiet manual labor

only. Its value is in the skill, and the character of the labor. The

land is there, and the Negroes are there; but the result is loss or

gain, according to the amount of labor that can be obtained, and the

skill with which the manual labor and the mechanical powers are applied.

It is said that at the present time, in the present state of the market,

a well-managed sugar estate yields from fifteen to twenty-five per cent

on the investment. This is true, I am inclined to think, if by the

investment be meant only the land, the machinery, and the slaves. But

the land is not a large element in the investment. The machinery is

costly, yet its value depends on the science applied to its construction

and operation. The chief item in the investment is the slave labor.

Taking all the slaves together, men, women, and children, the young and

the old, the sick and the well, the good and the bad, their market value

averages about $1000 a head. Yet of these, allowing for those too young

or too old, for the sick, and for those who must tend the young, the old

and the sick, and for those whose labor, like that of the cooks, only

sustains the others, not more than one half are able-bodied, productive

laborers. The value of this chief item in the investment depends largely

on moral and intellectual considerations. How unsatisfactory is it,

then, to calculate the profits of the investment, when you leave out of

the calculation the value of the controlling power, the power that

extorts the contributions of labor from the steam and the engine and the

fire, and from the more difficult human will. This is the "plus x" of

the formula, which, unascertained, gives us little light as to the

result.

But, to return to the changes wrought by this substitution of sugar for

coffee. The sugar plantation is no grove, or garden, or orchard. It is

not the home of the pride and affections of the planter's family. It is

not a coveted, indeed, hardly a desirable residence. Such families as

would like to remain on these plantations are driven off for want of

neighboring society. Thus the estates, largely abandoned by the families

of the planters, suffer the evils of absenteeism, while the owners live

in the suburbs of Havana and Matanzas, and in the Fifth Avenue of New

York. The slave system loses its patriarchal character. The master is

not the head of a great family, its judge, its governor, its physician,

its priest and its father, as the fond dream of the advocates of

slavery, and sometimes, doubtless, the reality, made him. Middlemen, in

the shape of administradores, stand between the owner and the slaves.

The slave is little else than an item of labor raised or bought. The

sympathies of common home, common childhood, long and intimate relations

and many kind offices, common attachments to house, to land, to dogs, to

cattle, to trees, to birds--the knowledge of births, sicknesses, and

deaths, and the duties and sympathies of a common religion--all those

things that may ameliorate the legal relations of the master and slave,

and often give to the face of servitude itself precarious but

interesting features of beauty and strength--these they must not look to

have. This change has had some effect already, and will produce much

more, on the social system of Cuba.

There are still plantations on which the families of the wealthy and

educated planters reside. And in some cases the administrador is a

younger member or a relative of the family, holding the same social

position; and the permanent administrador will have his family with him.

Yet, it is enough to say that the same causes which render the ingenio

no longer a desirable residence for the owner make it probable that the

administrador will be either a dependent or an adventurer; a person from

whom the owner will expect a great deal, and the slaves but little, and

from whom none will get all they expect, and perhaps none all they are

entitled to.

In the afternoon we went to the sugar-house, and I was initiated into

the mysteries of the work. There are four agents: steam, fire, cane

juice, and Negroes. The results are sugar and molasses. At this ingenio,

they make only the Muscovado, or brown sugar. The processes are easily

described, but it is difficult to give an idea of the scene. It is one

of condensed and determined labor.

To begin at the beginning, the cane is cut from the fields by companies

of men and women, working together, who use an instrument called a

machete, which is something between a sword and a cleaver. Two blows

with this slash off the long leaves, and a third blow cuts off the

stalk, near to the ground. At this work, the laborers move like reapers,

in even lines, at stated distances. Before them is a field of dense,

high-waving cane; and behind them, strewn wrecks of stalks and leaves.

Near, and in charge of the party, stands a driver, or more

grandiloquently, a contramayoral, with the short, limber plantation

whip, the badge of his office, under his arm.

Ox-carts pass over the field, and are loaded with the cane, which they

carry to the mill. The oxen are worked in the Spanish fashion, the yoke

being strapped upon the head, close to the horns, instead of being hung

round the neck, as with us, and are guided by goads, and by a rope

attached to a ring through the nostrils. At the mill, the cane is tipped

from the carts into large piles, by the side of the platform. From these

piles, it is placed carefully, by hand, lengthwise, in a long trough.

This trough is made of slats, and moved by the power of the endless

chain, connected with the engine. In this trough, it is carried between

heavy, horizontal, cylindrical rollers, where it is crushed, its juice

falling into receivers below, and the crushed cane passing off and

falling into a pile on the other side.

This crushed cane (bagazo), falling from between the rollers, is

gathered into baskets by men and women, who carry it on their heads into

the fields and spread it for drying. There it is watched and tended as

carefully as new-mown grass in haymaking, and raked into cocks or

windrows, on an alarm of rain. When dry, it is placed under sheds for

protection against wet. From the sheds and from the fields, it is loaded

into carts and drawn to the furnace doors, into which it is thrown by

Negroes, who crowd it in by the armful, and rake it about with long

poles. Here it feeds the perpetual fires by which the steam is made, the

machinery moved, and the cane-juice boiled. The care of the bagazo is

an important part of the system; for if that becomes wet and fails, the

fires must stop, or resort be had to wood, which is scarce and

expensive.

Thus, on one side of the rollers is the ceaseless current of fresh,

full, juicy cane-stalks, just cut from the open field; and on the other

side, is the crushed, mangled, juiceless mass, drifting out at the

draught, and fit only to be cast into the oven and burned. This is the

way of the world, as it is the course of art. The cane is made to

destroy itself. The ruined and corrupted furnish the fuel and fan the

flame that lures on and draws in and crushes the fresh and wholesome;

and the operation seems about as mechanical and unceasing in the one

case as in the other.

From the rollers, the juice falls below into a large receiver, from

which it flows into great, open vats, called defecators. These

defecators are heated by the exhaust steam of the engine, led through

them in pipes. All the steam condensed forms water, which is returned

warm into the boiler of the engine. In the defecators, as their name

denotes, the scum of the juice is purged off, so far as heat alone will

do it. From the last defecator, the juice is passed through a trough

into the first caldron. Of the caldrons, there is a series, or, as they

call it, a train, through all which the juice must go. Each caldron is a

large, deep, copper vat, heated very hot, in which the juice seethes and

boils. At each, stands a strong Negro, with long, heavy skimmer in hand,

stirring the juice and skimming off the surface. This scum is collected

and given to the hogs, or thrown upon the muck heap, and is said to be

very fructifying. The juice is ladled from one caldron to the next, as

fast as the office of each is finished. From the last caldron, where its

complete crystallization is effected, it is transferred to coolers,

which are large, shallow pans. When fully cooled, it looks like brown

sugar and molasses mixed. It is then shovelled from the coolers into

hogsheads. These hogsheads have holes bored in their bottoms; and, to

facilitate the drainage, strips of cane are placed in the hogshead, with

their ends in these holes, and the hogs-head is filled. The hogsheads

are set on open frames, under which are copper receivers, on an inclined

plane, to catch and carry off the drippings from the hogsheads. These

drippings are the molasses, which is collected and put into tight casks.

I believe I have given the entire process. When it is remembered that

all this, in every stage, is going on at once, within the limits of the

mill, it may well be supposed to present a busy scene. The smell of

juice and of sugar-vapor, in all its stages, is intense. The Negroes

fatten on it. The clank of the engine, the steady grind of the machines,

and the high, wild cry of the Negroes at the caldrons to the stokers at

the furnace doors, as they chant out their directions or wants--now for

more fire, and now to scatter the fire--which must be heard above the

din, "A-a-b'la! A-a-b'la!" "E-e-cha candela!" "Pu-er-ta!", and the

barbaric African chant and chorus of the gang at work filling the

cane-troughs--all these make the first visit at the sugar-house a

strange experience. But after one or two visits, the monotony is as

tiresome as the first view is exciting. There is, literally, no change

in the work. There are the same noises of the machines, the same cries

from Negroes at the same spots, the same intensely sweet smell, the same

state of the work in all its stages, at whatever hour you visit it,

whether in the morning, or evening, at midnight, or at the dawn of the

day. If you wake up at night, you hear the "A-a-b'la! A-a-b'la!"

"E-e-cha! E-e-cha!" of the caldron-men crying to the stokers, and the

high, monotonous chant of the gangs filling the wagons or the trough, a

short, improvisated stave, and then the chorus--not a tune, like the

song of sailors at the tackle and falls, but a barbaric, tuneless

intonation.

When I went into the sugar-house, I saw a man with an unmistakably New

England face in charge of the engine, with that look of intelligence and

independence so different from the intelligence and independence of all

other persons.

"Is not that a New England man?"

"Yes," said Mr. Chartrand, "he is from Lowell; and the engine was built

in Lowell."

When I found him at leisure, I made myself known to him, and he sat down

on the brickwork of the furnace, and had a good unburdening of talk; for

he had not seen any one from the United States for three months. He

talked, like a true Yankee, of law and politics--the Lowell Bar and Mr.

Butler, Mr. Abbott and Mr. Wentworth; of the Boston Bar and Mr. Choate;

of Massachusetts politics and Governor Banks; and of national politics

and the Thirty Millions Bill, and whether it would pass, and what if it

did.

This engineer is one of a numerous class, whom the sugar culture brings

annually to Cuba. They leave home in the autumn, engage themselves for

the sugar season, put the machinery in order, work it for the four or

five months of its operation, clean and put it in order for lying by,

and return to the United States in the spring. They must be machinists,

as well as engineers; for all the repairs and contrivances, so necessary

in a remote place, fall upon them. Their skill is of great value, and

while on the plantation their work is incessant, and they have no

society or recreations whatever. The occupation, however, is healthful,

their position independent, and their pay large. This engineer had been

several years in Cuba, and I found him well informed, and, I think,

impartial and independent. He tells me, which I had also heard in

Havana, that this plantation is a favorable specimen, both for skill and

humanity, and is managed on principles of science and justice, and

yields a large return. On many plantations--on most, I suspect, from all

I can learn--the Negroes, during the sugar season, are allowed but four

hours sleep in the twenty-four, with one for dinner, and a half hour for

breakfast, the night being divided into three watches, of four hours

each, the laborers taking their turns. On this plantation, the laborers

are in two watches, and divide the night equally between them, which

gives them six hours for sleep. In the day, they have half an hour for

breakfast and one hour for dinner. Here, too, the very young and the

very old are excused from the sugar-house, and the nursing mothers have

lighter duties and frequent intervals of rest. The women worked at

cutting the cane, feeding the mill, carrying the bagazo in baskets,

spreading and drying it, and filling the wagons; but not in the

sugar-house itself, or at the furnace doors. I saw that no boys or girls

were in the mill--none but full-grown persons. The very small children

do absolutely nothing all day, and the older children tend the cattle

and run errands. And the engineer tells me that in the long run this

liberal system of treatment, as to hours and duties, yields a better

return than a more stringent rule.

He thinks the crop this year, which has been a favorable one, will

yield, in well-managed plantations a net interest of from fifteen to

twenty-five per cent on the investment; making no allowance, of course,

for the time and skill of the master. This will be a clear return to

planters like Mr. Chartrand, who do not eat up their profits by interest

on advances, and have no mortgages, and require no advances from the

merchants.

But the risks of the investment are great. The cane-fields are liable to

fires, and these spread with great rapidity, and are difficult to

extinguish. Last year Mr. Chartrand lost $7,000 in a few hours by fire.

In the cholera season he lost $12,000 in a few days by deaths among the

Negroes.

According to the usual mode of calculation, I suppose the value of the

investment of Mr. Chartrand to be between $125,000 and $150,000. On

well-managed estates of this size, the expenses should not exceed

$10,000. The gross receipts, in sugar and molasses, at a fair rate of

the markets, cannot average less than between $35,000 and $40,000. This

should leave a profit of between eighteen and twenty-two per cent.

Still, the worth of an estimate depends on the principle on which the

capital is appraised. The number of acres laid down to cane, on this

plantation, is about three hundred. The whole number of Negroes is one

hundred, and of these not more than half, at any time, are capable of

efficient labor; and there are twenty-two children below the age of five

years, out of a total of one hundred Negroes.

Beside the engineer, some large plantations have one or more white

assistants; but here an intelligent Negro has been taught enough to take

charge of the engine when the engineer is off duty. This is the highest

post a Negro can reach in the mill, and this Negro was mightily pleased

when I addressed him as maquinista. There are, also, two or three white

men employed, during the season, as sugar masters. Their post is beside

the caldrons and defecators, where they are to watch the work in all its

stages, regulate the heat and the time for each removal, and oversee the

men. These, with the engineer, make the force of white men who are

employed for the season.

The regular and permanent officers of a plantation are the mayoral and

mayordomo. The mayoral is, under the master or his administrador, the

chief mate or first lieutenant of the ship. He has the general oversight

of the Negroes, at their work or in their houses, and has the duty of

exacting labor and enforcing discipline. Much depends on his character,

as to the comfort of master and slaves. If he is faithful and just,

there may be ease and comfort; but if he is not, the slaves are never

sure of justice, and the master is sure of nothing. The mayoral comes,

of necessity, from the middle class of whites, and is usually a native

Cuban, and it is not often that a satisfactory one can be found or kept.

The day before I arrived, in the height of the season, Mr. Chartrand had

been obliged to dismiss his mayoral, on account of his conduct to the

women, which was producing the worst results with them and with the men;

and not long before, one was dismissed for conniving with the Negroes in

a wholesale system of theft, of which he got the lion's share.

The mayordomo is the purser, and has the immediate charge of the stores,

produce, materials for labor, and provisions for consumption, and keeps

the accounts. On well regulated plantations, he is charged with all the

articles of use or consumption, and with the products as soon as they

are in condition to be numbered, weighed, or counted, and renders his

accounts of what is consumed or destroyed, and of the produce sent away.

There is also a boyero, who is the herdsman, and has charge of all the

cattle. He is sometimes a Negro.

Under the mayoral, are a number of contramayorales, who are the

boatswain's mates of the ship, and correspond to the "drivers" of our

southern plantations. One of them goes with every gang when set to work,

whether in the field or elsewhere, and whether men or women, and watches

and directs them, and enforces labor from them. The drivers carry under

the arm, at all times, the short, limber plantation whip, the badge of

their office and their means of compulsion. They are almost always

Negroes; and it is generally thought that Negroes are not more humane in

this office than the low whites. On this plantation, it is three years

since any slave has been whipped; and that punishment is never inflicted

here on a woman. Near the Negro quarters, is a penitentiary, which is of

stone, with three cells for solitary confinement, each dark, but well

ventilated. Confinement in these, on bread and water, is the extreme

punishment that has been found necessary for the last three years. The

Negro fears solitude and darkness, and covets his food, fire, and

companionship.

With all the corps of hired white labor, the master must still be the

real power, and on his character the comfort and success of the

plantation depend. If he has skill as a chemist, a geologist, or a

machinist, it is not lost; but, except as to the engineer, who may

usually be relied upon, the master must be capable of overseeing the

whole economy of the plantation, or all will go wrong. His chief duty is

to oversee the overseers, to watch his officers, the mayoral, the

mayordomo, the boyero, and the sugar masters. These are mere hirelings,

and of a low sort, such as a slave system reduces them to; and if they

are lazy, the work slackens; and if they are ill-natured, somebody

suffers. The mere personal presence of the master operates as a stimulus

to the work. This afternoon young Mr. Chartrand and I took horses and

rode out to the cane-field, where the people were cutting. They had been

at work a half hour. He stopped his horse where they were when we came

to them, and the next half hour, without a word from him, they had made

double the distance of the first. It seems to me that the work of a

plantation is what a clock would be that always required a man's hand

pressing on the main spring. With the slave, the ultimate sanction is

force. The motives of pride, shame, interest, ambition, and affection

may be appealed to, and the minor punishments of degradation in duties,

deprivation of food and sleep, and solitary confinement may be resorted

to; but the whip, which the driver always carries, reminds the slave

that if all else fails, the infliction of painful bodily punishment lies

behind, and will be brought to bear, rather than that the question be

left unsettled. Whether this extreme be reached, and how often it be

reached, depends on the personal qualities of the master. If he is

lacking in self-control, he will fall into violence. If he has not the

faculty of ruling by moral and intellectual power--be he ever so humane,

if he is not firm and intelligent, the bad among the slaves will get the

upper hand; and he will be in danger of trying to recover his position

by force. Such is the reasoning _à priori_.

At six o'clock, the large bell tolls the knell of parting day and the

call to the Oración, which any who are religious enough can say,

wherever they may be, at work or at rest. In the times of more religious

strictness, the bell for the Oración, just at dusk, was the signal for

prayer in every house and field, and even in the street, and for the

benediction from parent to child and master to servant. Now, in the

cities, it tolls unnoticed, and on the plantations, it is treated only

as the signal for leaving off work. The distribution of provisions is

made at the storehouse, by the mayordomo, my host superintending it in

person. The people take according to the number in their families; and

so well acquainted are all with the apportionment, that in only one or

two instances were inquiries necessary. The kitchen fires are lighted in

the quarters, and the evening meal is prepared. I went into the quarters

before they were closed. A high wall surrounds an open square, in which

are the houses of the Negroes. This has one gate, which is locked at

dark; and to leave the quarters after that time is a serious offence.

The huts were plain, but reasonably neat, and comfortable in their

construction and arrangement. In some were fires, round which, even in

this hot weather, the Negroes like to gather. A group of little Negroes

came round the strange gentleman, and the smallest knelt down with

uncovered heads, in a reverent manner, saying, "Buenos días Señor." I

did not understand the purpose of this action, and as there was no one

to explain the usage to me, I did them the injustice to suppose that

they expected money, and distributed some small coins among them. But I

learned afterwards that they were expecting the benediction, the hand on

the head and the "Dios te haga bueno." It was touching to see their

simple, trusting faces turned up to the stranger--countenances not yet

wrought by misfortune, or injury, or crime, into the strong expressions

of mature life. None of these children, even the smallest, was naked, as

one usually sees them in Havana. In one of the huts, a proud mother

showed me her Herculean twin boys, sprawling in sleep on the bed. Before

dark, the gate of the quarters is bolted, and the night is begun. But

the fires of the sugar-house are burning, and half of the working people

are on duty there for their six hours.

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