CHAPTER XI

_Mistral_

I started early on Monday morning to walk to Saint-Remy. It was fine

and sunny again, but there was a touch of the _mistral_. The road

winds up through the limestone crags to a _col_ from which there is a

view even more magnificent than that from Les Baux to the south. The

undulating plain, all silver and delicate green and indigo and deep

purple, stretches away on either hand, and very far away rise the snow

peaks of the Pyrenees, like mountains in a dream. The Rhône and the

Durance are at about equal distances to the right and left, the Durance

flowing on one side of the Alpilles to join her sister at Avignon, and

both these together passing the other side on their way to the sea.

Beyond Avignon are the heights of the Cevennes and the Basses-Alpes to

close in the picture, of which the foreground is the very heart of the

rich and picturesque Provençal country.

The life of the soil, as it existed for hundreds of years, and exists

still though shorn of some of its character since the days of steam,

has been immortalized by Mistral, who was born in the village of

Maillane a few miles off the road I was taking that day, spent all

his life there, and was to die two days later. All its sweet charm

is summed up in the great epic of "Mirèio," or "Mireille" published

when he was twenty-five and instantly hailed by no less a critic

than Lamartine as a work of genius. I had been reading it at Les

Baux, in a version in which a French rendering--prepared, I am told,

by Mistral himself--is printed parallel to the Provençal. It was

possible to get an idea of the swing and mastery of the original verse.

With some knowledge of Latin and French, with a few simple rules of

pronunciation, which were given in the Introduction, and with the ear

attuned somewhat to the sounds--for I had constantly heard Provençal

spoken--I could take a stanza here and there and make it out. But one

was carried along by the translation, even though it was in prose, and

I could not put it down until I had finished its twelve books.

The story is of the innocent burning loves of a youth, the son of a

wandering basket-maker, and of a young girl, the daughter of a rich

farmer. The earliest books are full of simple and beautiful feeling for

the common episodes of country life, as they unrolled themselves before

the poet's own eyes at the time he was writing of them. We see the

basket-maker and his son joining the master of the farm, his family,

and his numerous dependents, at their meal on the long stone table

under the vine-trellis in front of the house, and hear the stories they

tell; we see the girls picking the mulberry leaves from the trees, and

winding the silk from the cocoons, their hands and tongues alike busy;

and hear wise talk of seasons and crops, and of all the active pastoral

and agricultural life of the country.

There come three rich suitors for the hand of the fair Mireille; a man

of mighty flocks, who brings his sheep and goats down from the high

Alps to winter on the Crau; the owner of troops of horses running wild

on the windy marshes of the Camarque; and the strong tamer of bulls,

tales of whose strength and prowess ring through the country, who

fights a Homeric battle with the young lover, is defeated by him, but

by a stroke of malevolent cunning leaves him for dead before he goes to

his own death in the flooded river.

The after scenes have immortalized the Grotto des Fées in the Val

d'Enfer of Les Baux, and the pilgrimage church of Saintes-Maries, in

which Mireille dies, after hearing from the saints themselves the story

of their miraculous voyage and their landing in Provence. All the

scenes of the poem are laid within a few miles of Mistral's home, and

neither in this poem nor in any other has he drawn inspiration except

from the life and legends of his own Provence.

[Illustration: MISTRAL'S BIRTHPLACE, MAS DU JUGE]

[Illustration: FRESCO IN THE PALACE OF THE POPES AT AVIGNON

_Page 203_]

He has told the story of his own life in a charming book. His father

was of the old peasant aristocracy of the country of Arles, and married

his second wife, Mistral's mother, when he was already fifty-five.

"One year, on St. John's day, the master, François Mistral, was in his

cornfields, which the harvesters were cutting with their sickles. A

crowd of women followed the reapers to pick up the grain which escaped

the rake. Soon my father noticed a pretty girl who hung behind them

as if she were afraid to glean like the others. He approached her and

said:

"'Where do you come from, little one? What is your name?'

"'I am the daughter of Etienne Poulinet, Mayor of Maillane,' she

replied. 'My name is Délaïde.'

"'What!' said my father, 'the daughter of Poulinet, Mayor of Maillane,

coming out to glean!'

"'Master,' she replied, 'we are a large family, six girls and two

boys, and our father, although he is fairly well-off, when we ask him

for pin-money, says, "My dears, if you want money to make yourselves

smart go and earn it." So that is why I have come to glean.'

"Six months after this meeting, which reminds one of the old story

of Ruth and Boaz the gallant yeoman asked Master Poulinet for his

daughter, and I was born of this marriage.

"Well, then, my arrival in the world having taken place on September

8, 1830, in the afternoon, the happy mother sent for my father, who

was at that time, as usual, in his fields.

"As soon as the running messenger came within hearing, he called out:

'Come, master, for the mistress has just been delivered.'

"'How many?' asked my father.

"'One--a fine boy.'

"'A son! May the bon Dieu make him strong and wise!'

"And without more, as if nothing had happened, the good man finished

his work and returned deliberately to the farm. This showed no lack

of tenderness, but, brought up, and indoctrinated, like the old

Provençals, in the Roman tradition, his manner showed the surface

roughness of the ancient _pater familias_."[11]

The child narrowly escaped being christened Nostradamus, but was called

Frédéric instead, in memory of a poor little urchin who had carried

love-letters between Mistral's parents during their courtship and had

died shortly afterwards.

His childhood was spent in soaking in the details of the large simple

life in and about his home, and all the lore of the past that was

stored up by the country people. He went to the University of Avignon,

and to Aix to study law, and there gradually formed in him the purpose

to devote his life to the literary revival of the national tongue,

which had sunk from its proud estate as a language of high poetry

to little more than a peasant dialect. He was not alone in his love

for it. Other names were honoured throughout Provence of the joyous,

high-mettled band that formed themselves into a society to advance

their object, and made such an immense pleasure of their lives as they

worked towards their end. There were sweet singers among them--Aubanel,

Roumanille, Félix Gras, and others--although none whose names will live

as Mistral's will; for he long outlived them all, and his fame has

spread everywhere. They called themselves the "Félibres," and their

movement the "Félibrige," using a word that Mistral had found in an

old legend to designate the seven Doctors of the Law with whom Christ

disputed in the Temple; and no one who has visited Provence needs

telling how much alive the movement is. Besides his poems, and some

charming stories, Mistral has produced an exhaustive Dictionary of the

Provençal language, and if his fame had not been established half a

century ago on the publication of "Mireille," his museum at Arles, in

which he sought to gather up all the story of Provençal life, so that

what has passed or is passing away should never be forgotten, would

keep his memory green. It is a noble gift in itself, this museum housed

in one of the ancient buildings of Arles. In 1906 Mistral was awarded

the Nobel Prize for literature, and dedicated it to this purpose. He

wanted nothing for himself that money could buy. For eighty-four years

he lived among his own people the common life of the land, and came to

be supremely honoured by them all. They called him the Emperor of the

South; there was no one whose name carried more weight.

For the gift that he brought to his people, his grand old father

of whom he draws such a delightful portrait in his Memoirs, must

be accorded some of the thanks. As in the case of Ruskin and of

Browning, a parent who had no connection with literature himself

fostered the early studies of the son and left him to follow his bent,

while relieving him of the necessities which often smother talent,

though never perhaps genius. But then Mistral's father was himself an

inspiration to the work his son set himself to do when he returned to

the large liberty of his home.

"The Judge's farm was at this time a true home of pure poetry,

biblical and idyllic. Did it not live and sing around me, this poem

of Provence with its blue depths framed by the Alpilles? One had only

to go out to be dazzled by it. Did I not see Mireille passing, not

only in my young dreams, but even in person, sometimes in one of those

pretty young girls of Maillane, who came to pick mulberry leaves for

their silkworms, sometimes in the grace of those who came and went

with bare throats and white coifs among the corn and the hay, in the

olive-gardens and among the vines?

"Did not the actors in my drama, the labourers, harvesters, herdsmen

and shepherds, come and go before my eyes from dawn till dusk? Could

you have a finer old man, more patriarchal, more worthy to be the

prototype of my Master Ramon, than old François Mistral, whom no one,

not even my mother, ever called anything but the Master? My poor

father--sometimes when the work was pressing and he wanted help, either

to get in the hay or to draw up the water from the well, he would call

out: 'Where is Frédéric?' Although at that moment I might be stretched

under a willow idly pursuing some fugitive rhyme, my dear mother would

reply: 'He is writing.' And immediately the rough voice of the good

man would soften as he said: 'Don't disturb him.' For to him, who had

never read anything in his youth but the Bible and Don Quixote, writing

was almost a holy office."

As a young man Mistral's father had been requisitioned to carry corn

to Paris during the Reign of Terror, and was struck with horror at the

execution of the king.[12]

* * * * *

"He was profoundly religious. Every evening, summer as well as winter,

kneeling at his chair, head uncovered, hands to his forehead, with his

hair in a queue tied by a silk ribbon, he would pray for us aloud; and

when the evenings lengthened in the autumn he would read the Gospels to

his children and his servants....

"Although he would pick up a fagot on the road and carry it home;

although he would content himself for his ordinary fare with vegetables

and brown bread; although, in the midst of plenty, he was always

abstemious, and would mix water with his wine, yet his table was always

open, as well as his hand and his purse, to any poor wayfarer. Then, if

there was talk of any one, he would ask first: 'Is he a good worker?'

and if the answer was, yes, he would say: 'Ah, he's a good man; I'm his

friend.'"[13]

This charming book of Mistral's and his poems, give more of flavour of

Provence than anything I have read, and the link between our times and

his was not even snapped by his death on the day I walked through the

country that he more particularly wrote of.

He was never for long away from Provence during the eighty-four years

of life, but was much lionized when he did venture as far as Paris. I

very much wish that I had seen him, for his personality counted for a

great deal in the movement he spent his life in fostering, and he was

the last survivor of the original Félibres. It now remains to be seen

whether the revival will continue of itself. I have heard it compared

with other national revivals, fostered by intellectuals, but taking

no great hold of the people, and prophecies of its decay. But I think

it has life in it. Mistral would certainly not have called himself an

intellectual, and he never behaved like one. He was one of the people

himself, and they are fortunate to have found such an interpreter.

A Spring Walk in Provence · 第 11 / 22 章