VEGETABLES--WHAT SHALL WE PLANT? HOT-BED--ITS CULTURE, ETC.
The changes which the art of the florist has produced in double
and variegated flowers, are not to be compared with the effects of
cultivation on vegetables which have been for ages man’s peculiar
property. In their wild state, they are now scarcely recognizable.
From the Colewort, whose scanty leaves do not weigh half an ounce, come
the sixty pound cabbages which are often seen in the markets. From a
small, bitter root, comes the potatoes, Early Rose and Peerless, which
exhibit the wondrous changes which have been wrought in them. And so on
to the end of the catalogue of vegetables! What encouragement do not
these facts afford to the cultivator who desires to make improvements
in some classes of vegetables. If he is a benefactor to his race who
can make two blades of grass grow in the place of one, surely he is one
who gives to us a “Trophy” Tomato or a Brezee’s “Peerless!”
Leigh Hunt, speaking of vegetables, says:--
“What a perpetual reproduction of the marvelous is carried on by
nature, and how utterly ignorant we are of the causes of the least and
most disesteemed of the commonest vegetables; and what a quantity of
life and beauty, and mystery, and use, and enjoyment is to be found
in them, composed out of all sorts of elements, and shaped as if by
the hands of fairies! What workmanship, with no apparent workman! What
consummate elegance, though the result is but a radish or an onion!”
The care and oversight of the vegetable as well as the flower garden,
frequently devolves upon women, and as it costs no more time and labor
to grow the most choice kinds, I propose to give a selection of the
varieties which are the best for home culture.
The seedsmen’s catalogues present us with numerous varieties, which
appear quite bewildering, but I have long cared for home vegetables,
and have learned what are the most desirable for my table.
In buying your seeds, do not depend upon those purchased from peddlers’
carts, or from country stores; they are not so certain to be pure and
fresh. Seeds from selected stocks are far superior to those gathered at
hap-hazard from fields and gardens. So be sure, and provide yourself
with a catalogue from a reliable source, and send thither for all you
may desire.
Asparagus heads the list of early vegetables; it is almost the first
green thing to show itself in the spring. Conover’s Colossal is very
superior to the common kinds; it will frequently send up from twenty
to twenty-five stalks, as large as a man’s thumb, from one plant. But
it requires high culture, and much room to do this. The plants should
be set three to four feet apart each way, and be thoroughly manured,
and salted in November. Early in March and April, the soil should be
stirred up with a three-pronged iron hand-fork. Thus treated, you can
grow Asparagus as fine as any seen in Fulton market, New York.
_Bush Beans._
The Newington Wonder and the Refugee have been my dependence; but
last season I tried the Dwarf Wax--a waxen-yellow, stringless pod,
and consider it far ahead of any other kind for table use. It makes a
delicious dish--nearly equal to green peas. Among Pole Beans, the Lima
is not surpassed by any other kind; but in northern New England the
summers are too short to grow it in perfection, so I substitute the
Dutch Case-knife, which is hardy and productive. Butter Beans are also
very good, making the best succotash of any kind of Bean.
Giant Wax Beans will keep up the supply of string beans until frost
comes; their waxy yellow, succulent pods, if stripped up in small bits,
and boiled two hours, will provide a most excellent dish for the table,
for many weeks.
_Beets._
Early Flat Bassano has been the earliest variety grown; but the Dark
Red Egyptian Beet has proved to be ten days earlier than any other. Its
color is of the deepest red, and its flavor delicious.
The Swiss Chard, or Sea-Kale Beet, is a very desirable vegetable, as
its leaves can be boiled for greens all the season. The thick, white
midribs of the leaves are said to be a good substitute for Asparagus.
If cut frequently, the leaves keep shooting up afresh until autumn.
_Cauliflower._
The best early variety is the Early Erfurt, a compact, dwarf kind. Le
Normand is of much larger growth, and later in blooming.
These vegetables should have a place in every garden, and it is vastly
superior to the cabbage. Dr. Johnson, of literary fame, pronounced it
the finest flower that ever bloomed.
_Cabbage._
The Early Jersey Wakefield is considered the best among the early
kinds, as it rarely fails to head. Early Winningstadt is the best for
intermediate use; and the Premium Flat Dutch is considered unequaled
for winter use. The Green Globe Savoy is the most tender, and the
finest flavored, as a general rule; the larger the head of cabbage, the
coarser is its flavor.
Be sure and plant some cabbages for winter salad. They are unsurpassed
for this purpose, and are far more nutritious if eaten uncooked.
_Cucumbers._
Early Russian Cluster is the earliest kind one can grow; but their
flavor is not equal to the Early White Spine, and the pickles made
from the latter, are superior. The Long Green Prickly is the firmest
and best flavored; but will not be ready for the table as soon as the
others.
_Celery._
This vegetable demands more attention. It can be easily raised by
growing in rows, and blanching in ridges, if trenching is too much
trouble.
Incomparable Dwarf White is the first; of a very dwarf habit, and
solid. Boston Market is very fine; White Solid is also desirable for
its large size, and crisp, fine flavor.
_Carrots._
One must have a bed of these for seasoning soups, and for the feathery
green leaves to mingle with dishes of flowers, and vases.
Bliss’ Improved Long Orange is a great improvement on the older kinds;
is better flavored, and of the richest color. Large White Belgian is
fine for those who like the vegetable served like squashes.
_Corn._
Farmer’s Club Sweet possesses a delicious flavor; very tender and sweet.
Moore’s Early Concord Sweet is a new variety, obtained from crossing
Crosby’s Early with Burr’s Improved, and is said to be unsurpassed by
any other kind, either early or late. Trimble’s Sugar is a very fine
variety for late purposes.
_Egg Plant._
Pekin New Black is a variety from China, which grows to the height of
two feet, with very ornamental foliage; the fruit weighs from three to
six pounds; it is very prolific, and of delicious flavor, decidedly
superior to any other kind known. Seed must be sown in a hot-bed, in
cold climates.
_Kohl Rabi, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage._
This vegetable is a cross between a Turnip and a Cabbage in its flavor
and makes a nice dish. The Early White Vienna is the best variety.
_Lettuce._
The Early Curled Simpson is the best for spring use, and is largely
grown in the neighborhood of New York. The Large Curled India is better
for later use; it does not run to seed so quickly as other kinds, and
will bear the sun better. The Green Paris Cos is the best of these
varieties. Dickson’s “All the Year Round” is a valuable novelty.
_Melons._
Skillman’s Fine Netted takes first rank; and for later use, the White
Japan, Pine Apple and Green Citron are the best.
Black Spanish Water Melon is of a thin rind, and rich flavor. Mountain
Sprout is a larger and later variety.
The Long Persian, imported by Bayard Taylor, is a great acquisition to
the middle and southern States; is very large and of the most delicious
flavor.
Joe Johnston Water Melon is also very desirable at the south; its flesh
is deep red, and remarkably rich.
_Okra._
The Improved Dwarf Green is better for home culture than the common
variety usually grown; it is also earlier, and is equally productive.
The green pods of this vegetable are used in making the famous “Gumbo”
of the southern States; and are always desirable for every kind of soup.
_Onions._
Yellow Danvers has long held first rank for family use; but now the
seedsmen offer us rare imported varieties from Italy. Early White
Naples is a distinct variety, of mild flavor; often the bulbs will
weigh a pound; white skins, and very tender. New Giant Rocca, of
Naples, has a brown skin, delicate flavor, and bulbs were exhibited
in England which weighed three and a half pounds. Large Italian Red
Tripoli, flavor mild and pleasant; bulbs have grown to weigh two and a
half pounds.
_Peas._
Landreth’s Extra Early is said to be the earliest for garden use, and
the best. Philadelphia Extra Early is also desirable; but with some
seedsmen only another name for Landreth’s. Little Gem is very dwarf,
and of fine flavor; grows only one foot high. Hundred-fold, or Cook’s
Favorite, is a first-class variety; early, and very prolific. Laxton’s
Supreme is the earliest wrinkled pea, and has the largest pods of any
kind. The Champion is a late variety, but very luxuriant, and much the
best family sort raised.
_Parsnips._
A new variety of these vegetables, called the Student, is much sweeter,
and pleasanter in flavor, than the older kinds.
_Potatoes._
Early Rose is as yet unsurpassed for table purposes, both in its
early ripening, and its prolificness. Peerless is decidedly the best
late potato in cultivation; grows a very large size, is of pearly
whiteness, and very delicious flavor; it surely is the _ne plus ultra_
of Potatoes. Jersey Peach Blows are always good, but do not yield so
plentifully.
_Peppers._
Sweet Mountain Peppers should be grown in every garden, to flavor the
pickles. Large Bell are early and not as acrid as other kinds.
Cayenne are quite small, cone-shaped, coral-red when ripe. Good for
pepper sauce.
_Radishes._
Of the Early Turnip-rooted varieties, the Scarlet olive-shaped and the
White Turnip-rooted are the best. The Long Scarlet Short Top, and the
Long White Naples, are the most desirable of the long-rooted sorts. The
Rose-colored Chinese is good for winter forcing.
_Spinach._
This vegetable comes so early that every garden should have a bed of
it. The Flanders is the most desirable kind, its leaves are the largest
and the most succulent. The New Zealand Spinach thrives best during the
heat of summer.
_Sweet Potatoes._
The Nansemond has been the best kind to cultivate at the north; but the
Queen of the South is now considered its superior.
_Squashes._
The summer varieties are the Scolloped Bush and the Crook Neck. Of the
winter, the Boston Marrow is the best early sort. Yokohama is also
good; but the Hubbard excels them all, and if kept in a dry place will
not decay until June.
_Tomatoes._
General Grant, Charter Oak, Crimson Cluster, and the Tilden have been
held in high esteem; but last year the Trophy exceeded them all, and
is expected to hold the first rank. The White Apple Tomato is of very
delicious flavor, and desirable to be eaten raw.
_Turnips._
The Red Top Strap-leaved, and the White Strap-leaved are the best
white-fleshed turnips, either for early summer or winter purposes.
Among the yellow-fleshed, Robertson’s Golden Ball, and Early Yellow
Finland are considered the finest grained, and the most delicate
flavored.
_Sweet Herbs._
A bed of Sage, Sweet Marjoram, Lavender and Caraway must not be
forgotten; all of them will grow readily from seeds, if sown in beds of
well-prepared garden soil. The seeds are so small, that they will not
grow unless the earth is very finely pulverized.
Excepting in the middle and southern States, a hot-bed is required to
start early plants, both for flower and vegetable gardens.
Boxes in the kitchen windows will do their work, but a hot-bed is by
all odds the easiest method of forcing plants for early vegetables.
_Directions for Making and Planting a Hot-bed._
Horse manure is the best for this purpose, because its heating
properties are more intense; cow manure will do, but the growth of the
plants will not be as rapid. For a week before using it, turn it over
every two or three days, and if the sun is not hot enough to cause
it to ferment, pour pailsful of hot water over it, the first time it
is stirred up; the next time throw out all the coarsest part of the
litter. When the whole heap smokes like a river on a frosty morning, it
is ready for use.
Select a southeastern exposure, where the north wind will not strike
upon it; a board fence at the north is a good protection. Build up the
manure two or three feet in depth, and from four to six inches longer
and wider than the frame. This can be made of boards fastened tightly
together, and should be higher at the back than in front, so that
it will present a slanting surface. Set the frame securely into the
manure, leaving enough outside to bank it up well from the frost. Add
four to five inches of sandy loam, thoroughly pulverized. If it can be
baked in the kitchen oven, and then sifted, it will be in a perfect
condition, and no weeds will grow in it. Place the sashes over it, and
let it heat up for two, three or four days, according to the warmth
of the sun. Put your hand in to test the soil; if it feels warm it is
ready to receive the seeds. The glass is now-a-days fitted into side
sashes, lapping at the edges, without transverse sash; one pane covers
the other half an inch. This gives less shade upon the plants from the
sashes.
Have your papers of seeds in a basket, with little sticks split at the
top to hold either the printed papers or written labels; thus, when
your seeds are up, you can tell an early or a late cabbage, tomato,
etc. Also have a pan of common or scouring sand, well warmed in the
oven. This is to scatter over the seeds, and it will make them grow
more quickly than loam.
Plant your seeds in regular rows, an inch, at least, apart. Thus
planted, you need not transplant all of them, some can grow in the bed
all summer. Radishes should be planted three inches apart. Scatter the
warm sand over the seeds, water thoroughly with a fine rose sprinkler,
with warmish water; don’t use cold at any time, always treat your
plants to a slightly warm shower. Rain never falls chilly cold.
When thoroughly wet, spread newspapers all over them, and for two or
three days sprinkle the seeds every night through the newspapers.
This keeps the soil moist, and the seeds will sprout very quickly. In
two days lettuce will show itself; and as soon as the tiny seedlings
are up, the papers must be removed directly, else they will damp off.
Planting in sods has been recommended for those vegetables which,
having a top root, would not transplant readily. I have tried it with
great success, with melons and cucumbers. Sods can be cut from the
orchard around the apple trees, or from the road sides. Put them grass
side down in the hot-bed, and plant the seeds in the soil clinging
to their roots. Cover them with sand. Water and shade with papers.
Squashes, Corn and Egg plants can be planted in the same way. The sods
can be put into, or near a window in the barn, and the seeds will
sprout soon. To transplant, the sods can be cut into pieces, and the
plants in them placed in the holes prepared for them. For Melons and
Cucumbers, they should be made very rich with manure; the grass will
soon decay, and the vines will grow most rapidly.
_Transplanting._
This should always be done after sunset. If the plants are removed
at this time, they will never know that they have changed their
quarters. I have transplanted tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, etc., after
seven o’clock in the evening, and not a leaf has wilted the next day.
Rhubarb leaves are excellent to cover young plants that are planted by
daylight; they are a better protection from the sun than newspapers, as
they wilt, and do not blow off.
_Care of Hot-bed._
Any one can make and plant a hot-bed, but it requires more brains than
a common laborer always possesses, to take care of one. One hour’s
neglect at noontime will scorch every tender plant; the same time,
at night, may freeze it. Every morning, noon and night, it should be
visited. If the night is chilly, cover it tightly with old carpets,
mattings or boards; and let them remain until the sun strikes clear and
warm upon the sashes. If the morning air is warm, lift the glasses a
little, and by noontime admit more air. Don’t keep the plants so warm
that they will spindle up--nor so cool that they will chill. You must
exercise your common sense, and thereby learn to keep just the right
heat; a little experience will soon teach you how to manage the sashes.
The weeds must not be allowed to grow, and on a sunny day when the
sashes can be removed, pull them all up.
The _Gardener’s Monthly_ recommends the following plan for a miniature
hot-bed, for raising slips in the summer time: “Get two or three boxes,
eighteen inches long and ten or twelve inches wide, with a pane of
glass to cover one exactly; have a hole dug deep enough, in a sunny
location, to place the boxes in on a level with the ground, first
taking off the bottoms of the boxes, and fitting one closely on to
the other; fill up the first with fresh stable manure; in the second,
place three or four inches of earth, allowing space enough between the
earth and the top of the box to set in the pots and leave three or four
inches of space above it; pour in a bucket of warm water, and set on
the glass; let it ferment two or three days, then fill the flower pots
with yellow or silver sand, and plant your cuttings; whitewash, or
smear with whitening and water, the under side of the glass; set in the
pots, and cover with the glass.”
Of course, some of the slips will die, and they will need to be watered
daily and aired. I intend to try the process this season in raising
plants for window gardening.
A dry-goods box will make a good small hot-bed. Saw off the side
boards and the front one, so that the sash will slide in obliquely;
put cleats on all sides to support the sash; sink two feet into the
ground; fill up with fermenting manure and good sandy soil, and you
will find it large enough to raise tomatoes and peppers, with a large
supply of flower seeds and cuttings. An old window sash can do duty for
the glass. A little ingenuity will help one greatly in making hot-beds
out of little material. A good kitchen garden is a capital investment
for every family. It requires labor and some brains to run it--but
children will often supply the former, and the housewife must not lack
the latter. It should not be left entirely to the mercies of Sambo
or Patrick, unless they have been well trained in its culture. As I
have said before, do not expect that women can do the hard work of a
garden--but they can plant the seed, and pull the weeds--if they will
not let them get the start early in the season. “_One year’s weeding
makes seven years’ seeding_,” is an old but trite proverb. Hoe up the
weeds when only three or four leaves at the most are visible, and the
hot sun will kill them off.
Men must take care of the paths, and prepare the soil. We, of the
weaker sex, can surely do the rest--_if we please so to do_. One of the
finest-vegetable gardens I ever saw, was tended by a lady over sixty
years of age, and so crippled, by an accident, that she could not walk
without a crutch. Yet, she planted corn and cucumbers; beets and beans;
potatoes and peppers; tomatoes and turnips; squashes and spinach; and
her garden was always ahead of all her neighbors. She kept her beds
without a weed, and her walks were as hard as if rolled--no weed dared
show its tiny head long enough to mar their surface. She was a lady,
delicate, refined and lovely, and her flowers and strawberries fully
equaled her vegetables. Will not our fair sisters strive to imitate her
example?