CULTIVATION OF THE ROSE.
“Nymphs who haunt th’ embowering shades,
Poesy’s enchanting maids,
Woo thee, Rose! Thy charms inspire
All the raptures of the lyre;
Cull we straight the inviting Rose,
Shielded by the thorn it grows;
Cull the Rose! what boots the smart?
Countless sweets regale the heart.”
Thus sang Anacreon, the Greek poet, hundreds of years ago, in praise
of the Queen of Flowers, which was used to decorate the temple and the
palace--the solemn rites of religion, and the festal gayety of the
banquet.
France excels all other nations in the production of new varieties of
this lovely flower. The Empress Josephine collected every variety then
cultivated, for a rosary at Malmaison; and, under her patronage, the
culture of roses became speedily the fashion. The skill and patience
of the florists produced more beautiful varieties, under the stimulus
thus given to their trade; and they have continued to give us yearly
many rich and rare roses; but have not yet succeeded in producing a
blue rose. The English florists are but little behind the French, in
their attention to this charming flower; and our own nurserymen yearly
produce many beautiful varieties.
Thousands of named sorts are offered to us; and it is very hard to
make a selection when all possess so much merit. It is usually best,
in purchasing plants, to leave the selection to the florist, merely
stating the climate, and soil in which they will grow.
It is also best to grow roses on their roots, unless “standards” are
desired, for the old roots will throw up strong suckers, and thus
assert their rights to the detriment of their nursling; unless these
are constantly watched for, and cut off, they will destroy the graft.
The varieties of the rose have increased with such rapidity in the last
twelve years, and they have produced so many new _races_, that it is
scarcely possible for the most skillful botanist to refer each variety
to its proper parent species. There are Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons,
Bengal, Chinese or Daily Rose; Tea-scented, Noisette, Perpetual Moss,
Annual Moss, Prairie Rose as climbers; Scotch, Damask and all the old
varieties of Garden Roses.
From the thousands of names offered in the catalogues, lists of those
most desirable will be given; but, of course, every one has his own pet
fancies.
There is no plant which requires a richer soil or better repays the
cultivator for attending to its wants; when grown in a congenial soil
its blossoms are perfect.
The best soil is fresh loam enriched with well-rotted cow manure, with
a little sand. If a top dressing of this compost is given every spring
before the buds start, the branches will make fine growth.
The finest clusters of flowers are always produced on new wood, and
close pruning will cause more new wood to grow, and ensure you a more
splendid show of flowers. Use the knife freely, though it does make you
ache to do so; cut all the old growth out, and prune in last year’s
branches a little; thus pruned, the roots will throw up new shoots,
from whence will come the finest roses of the garden.
As soon as the plants have done flowering, thin out the weak shoots,
and even some of the stronger ones, if they are too crowded; each
shoot left, should be exposed on every side to air and sun. The summer
flowering kinds thus treated will continue their growth from the main
shoots, and bloom much finer another year; while the autumnal flowers
push forth their buds the entire length of the stalk, and the second
flowering is perfected.
The roses are improved in both varieties; for shoots grown at that
period of the year invariably produce the finest flowers.
It has been recommended by some writers, to destroy the first bloom
of those roses which bloom twice in the season; because there is an
abundance of roses in June, and by so doing a finer bloom is obtained
in the autumn. Too many roses! Has any one ever witnessed such a
season? Let them bloom when they will, and cut off the stems as soon
as the leaves fall; then remove the soil to the depth of three or four
inches, and spread over it, almost close to the stem, a spadeful of
cow manure well decayed; throw back the soil that was removed, and, if
the weather is hot and dry, water occasionally, and you will have a
vigorous growth and a profuse flowering.
The flower stalk should always be cut off; it exhausts the plant to
form seeds, and consumes the strength which should go to forming new
shoots. When roses are planted in lawns, they should have no sods near
the roots; for the grass will absorb all the moisture, and also prevent
the air from reaching the soil.
The best time to plant hardy roses is in October or November, according
to the climate.
Spring months are better for planting half-hardy and tender roses, as
their roots will not get started before winter sets in. Of course, in
the mild climates of the Southern States, they can also be planted in
the late autumn. When first set out they should be mulched with coarse
manure, and watered occasionally, if the weather is warm and dry.
_Cuttings of Roses._
Roses are propagated chiefly by cuttings, layers and buds. Cuttings of
the hardy kind of roses, will strike easily in July and August. Hybrid
Perpetual, Chinese and Bourbon, with all the other kinds will grow
readily, if the cutting has, what gardeners term, a heel; that is, cut
off close to the old wood. Three, four or even six eyes can be left
above ground.
Plant them as recommended in chapter six; in wet sand. A dozen cuttings
can be set an inch apart, close to the pot; and the sand should not be
allowed to dry at all. If covered with a “_cloche_,” or hand-glass, a
moist temperature will be kept up, and, in two or three weeks, they
will commence to grow.
_Layering Roses._
Roses grown as dwarfs or bushes are the kind that will layer
advantageously. Loosen the soil about the plant, then choose a good
shoot, strip off a few leaves from six inches to two feet from the
point of the shoot; insert a sharp knife just behind an eye, on the
upper side of the shoot, and pass it carefully upwards cutting about
half through the stem, and from an inch to two inches in length. Open
the soil, bend down the shoots and press it in; peg it down with a hair
pin or a bit of wood, two or three inches beneath the soil, and cover
it firmly. Each layer should be tied to a stake to prevent the wind
from disturbing the roots.
June, July and August are the best months for layering. If the weather
is dry and hot, water frequently. Don’t let the layers dry up; about
October or November they will be large enough to take away. Cut them
off within two inches of the root, and transplant them wherever they
are desired. In the spring prune the stem down to three or four eyes,
and they will bloom finely.
The Chinese method of layering is often more successful than any other.
At the end of July or beginning of August, they select a strong shoot
of the same year’s growth, tongue it, as described above, and put in a
small stone to keep the slit open, and bind a handful of fresh green
moss around the tongue. This must be kept constantly wet, and the tiny
roots will shoot forth into the moss so rapidly, that in five or six
weeks the layer can be removed from the parent stalk. The roots can be
planted without disturbing the moss, and fine plants are thus procured.
_Budding Roses._
Budding roses is a very simple process, and an old razor can do duty
for a budding knife, and the handle of an old toothbrush, if scraped
down smooth, will answer for a wedge.
The latter part of June to the middle of August, is the best season for
budding; or, when the bark of the stalk can be easily raised from the
wood, this is a sure sign that one can bud with success.
Take a smooth part of the stem at the height you desire, and on the
side least exposed to the sun; with the razor make a horizontal cut
across the bark through to the wood, but not in to it; from the center
of this cross-cut make one straight down the stem, an inch or more in
length; these two cuts should be in the form of a =T=.
Now prepare the bud, or shield, as it is termed. Slice it off from the
rose you desire to bud from at one cut, and the shoot must be cut off
close to the main stalk; then the bud is sliced off, with a portion of
the old wood adhering to it; most of this should be picked out, but a
little at the back of the bud is essential to life; if you make a hole
through its bark throw it away, it will not grow.
Now, with the thin edge of the toothbrush handle, turn back the stem on
each side of the straight cut, and insert the bud close to the wood,
and fit it accurately and firmly to the cross-cut in the turned-back
bark; on this close contact of the two barks will depend the success of
your operation.
Lay the turned-back bark closely over the bud, or shield, and with
woolen yarn, or a bit of bass-wood, bind it down, leaving the point of
the bud clear.
Common adhesive plaster is said to be better for this purpose than
either yarn or bass. A handful of damp moss should be tied around the
whole, leaving the tiny point of the bud exposed to the air.
In six weeks at the farthest these ties can be removed.
All other shoots on that stem should be cut off, so as to throw the
strength of the plant into the support of the new comer.
By budding you may produce several kinds of roses upon the same plant.
Take a common wild rose, cut down all its suckers, and trim in its
branches, and bud with white, pink, crimson and yellow roses.
As soon as the buds commence to grow, cut off all the wild shoots, and
you will have a beautiful show of flowers.
Variegated shrubs can be budded in this manner upon the plain green
stocks. Grafting roses is not so popular as formerly; but the operation
is easily performed. Any one who can graft a tree, can graft a rose.
The stock to be grafted should be more forward than the scion, and the
operation should be performed when the sap is rising. April or May are
the best months.
The most important points in a good rose are, that its “constitution
should be hardy, and vigorous, with a robust habit of growth, good
foliage and profuse bloom. The flower should be fine in form, large in
size, decided in color. The form of the flower, whether it be globular,
cupped, or widely expanded, should be symmetrical; the petals even and
regular in their arrangement, full but not too crowded; the outer range
broad and firmly set, rendering the flower more lasting. In texture
they should be firm and thick, not thin and flimsy. Fragrance, and a
firm upright stem are desirable points. A green or yellow center to a
flower when fully open, is a great fault. There is no kind of shrub in
existence so well adapted to take various forms as the rose. It can be
used as a dwarf to fill the smallest beds; as a shrub to plant among
evergreens; and as a tall standard to form avenues of roses on each
side of a walk.
It can be planted in groups with a climber in the center, half
standards around it, and dwarfs for an edging; again, as climbers to
adorn a villa or a cottage, also to cover bare walls and trellises.
Yet none of these forms will show off its beauty and elegance as
effectually as training it to a pillar.
_Pillar Roses._
Iron rods with arches of the same material, or small chains hung
loosely from pillar to pillar so as to form festoons, will produce a
charming effect, making a lovely bower.
The pillars can be made either of a single upright post, or four rods
can be set at about nine inches distant from each other, thus forming a
square pillar, fastened with interlacings of strong copper wire.
The rose can be planted in the center, and the branches trained to each
corner rod, the small shoots twined between them. Bring all the shoots
to the outside, and do not let any twine round the rods, but tie them
to each with strings; and whenever they require painting, which is
needful to protect the iron from rusting, or, if the plants are tender,
and need protection, they are easily loosened from their support. Poles
of oak, ash or pine can supply the places of the iron rods; and, by
fixing them firmly into the ground in a triangular shape, three feet
apart at the base, and fastening the tops together with strong copper
wire, a pyramid of different colors can be formed, by planting three
different roses at the foot of the poles, and training them so that the
various hues will be seen.
_Weeping Roses._
These form beautiful objects when planted singly on lawns. Roses of a
pendulous habit must be used, such as the Aryshire and Evergreen. Bud
them on stocks four feet or upwards in height; the main shoots, after
the second year, should not be shortened until they touch the ground;
prune only the side branches, and the flowers will be produced from all
along the branches from the head to the ground.
When they attain their full size a hoop shall be attached to prevent
the branches from blowing about in the wind.
_Slugs on Rose Bushes._
For several years past these pests have ruined the glory of the “Queen
of Flowers,” and turned her beauty into deformity, changing the
ornaments of the garden with unsightly bushes, sparsely covered with
skeleton leaves.
Before the buds are formed, minute white spots appear on the under
surface of the leaves; these change rapidly into horrid green worms
which devour all the green part of the leaves, and also the buds and
flowers. If taken in season they can be destroyed. I used “Grafton
Mineral Fertilizer” with great effect last season, keeping the foliage
of a tall pink Moss Rose entirely free from their ravages; while
directly across the path, a yellow Harrison was left to them, and was
utterly ruined.
The powder is inodorous; can be scattered over the leaves before
the dew is dried off, and will drive them away. I made the first
application in May, a second one early in June, and a third after the
roses had fled. Not a green worm was seen on the leaves. The foliage
was perfect.
Powdered lime, if scattered over the leaves while wet with dew, will
also keep them off.
A few years ago I saw a most beautiful rose garden at Plattsburgh, N.
Y., not a slug had touched the leaves, and it was early in July. The
lady owner told me that the bushes were syringed with ten gallons of
warm water, in which one pint of soft soap, and one pint of common fine
salt had been dissolved. This mixture killed them all. It was applied
in May, and again in June.
Other preparations are used; white hellebore, sprinkled on through
a dredging box, and flour of sulphur, similarly applied, are found
efficacious. There are two crops of the slugs; the first comes in May,
and when the worms are fully developed they burrow in the ground, and
lie in a chrysalis state until August, when they appear with wings, and
lay a crop of eggs for the ensuing summer. If the first crop are not
entirely destroyed, it is well to repeat the application in August, so
as to diminish the supply for the next season.
The following comprises a good collection of Hybrid Perpetuals:--
Achille Gonaud, bright carmine.
Alex. Bachmeteff, deep, brilliant rose, large and fine.
Baron Prevost, rich rose color.
Cardinal Patrizzi, dark, velvety crimson.
Comte Litta, velvety purple.
Caroline de Sansal, pale flesh color.
Eugene Appert, scarlet crimson.
Gen. Jacqueminot, brilliant red, very large.
John Hopper, rosy-crimson, extra.
Jules Margottin, carmine, shaded to purple.
La Reine, clear rose, large cupped, superb.
Lady Emily Peel, white, edged with rose.
Mad’lle Bonnaire, pure white, tinged with rose at the center.
Mad. Freeman, white, with yellowish shade.
Pœonia, deep brilliant crimson.
Reine des Violets, reddish violet.
Victor Verdier, large, full carmine, one of the best.
_Bourbon Roses._
Archduke Charles, rosy crimson.
Bourbon Queen, rich blush.
Blanche Lafitte, pale flesh color, beautiful.
Duchesse Furringe, white.
Empress Eugene, deep rose.
Jupiter, dark purple.
Hermosa Pink, a profuse bloomer, with lovely buds.
Malmaison, blush, large and fine.
Omar Pasha, deep carmine.
Paxton, bright rose, crimson shaded.
Sombreuil, white.
_Bengal or China Roses._
Agrippina, deep crimson.
Archduke Charles, changeable.
Eugene Beauharnais, rich crimson.
Indica Alba, white daily.
Madam Preon, fine rose.
Lucullus, dark crimson.
Pink Daily.
Louis Philippe, crimson and rose.
Sanguinea, blood-red.
_Noisette Roses._
Augusta, pale yellow.
Amie Vibert, pure white.
Beauty of Green Mount, deep rose color.
Gloire de Dijon, bronze yellow, with orange center.
Lamarque, large, pure white.
La Pactole, pale yellow.
Setina, bright pink.
Solfaterre, yellowish white.
Souvenir de Anselm, clear carmine, very fragrant.
Washington, clear white.
_Tea Scented Roses._
Alba Rosea, white, with rose center.
Amabilis, rose color.
Belle Alamande, blush.
Bougere, salmon rose, bronzed.
Bon Silene, purple, shaded to carmine.
Marechal Niel, golden yellow, sweetest of the sweet.
Cornelia Cook, canary yellow.
Devoniensis, creamy white.
Leveson Gower, rosy salmon.
Madame Falcot, nankeen yellow.
Madame de Vatrey, carmine rose.
Pauline Lebonte, light blush.
Safrano, bright buff, very free bloomer.
Triomphe de Luxembourg, rose color.
White Tea, pure white, blooms freely.
_Moss Roses.--Perpetual._
Perpetual White, very fine.
Madame Edward Ory, deep rose.
Maupertius, velvety-red, very dark.
Raphael, blush, large clusters.
Salet, bright rose.
Souvenir de Pierre Vibert, dark red, shaded with violet.
_Annual Moss Roses._
English Moss, old variety, very mossy.
Adelaide, crimson.
Glory of Mosses, rose color; fine.
Alice Leroy, pale lilac.
Luxembourg, crimson.
Henry Martin, brilliant carmine.
_Prairie Roses.--Hardy Climbers._
Baltimore Belle, nearly white.
Queen of the Prairie, rosy red.
Seven Sisters, crimson, shading to white.
Gem of the Prairies, a hybrid between the Queen of the Prairie and
Madame Laffay; a strong, vigorous grower, flowers rich rosy crimson,
and of delicious fragrance. A great acquisition to climbing roses.
The oldest Rose Bush in the world is said to be one which is trained
upon one side of the Cathedral of Hildesheim, in Germany. Its age is
unknown, but documents exist which prove that a Bishop Hezelio, nearly
a thousand years ago, protected it by a stone roof, which is still in
existence. The largest Rose Bush is a white Banksia, in the Marine
Garden at London, which was sent there, the first of its kind, in 1813,
by Bonpland. Its numerous branches, some of which measure eighteen
inches in circumference, cover an immense wall to a width of nearly
sixty feet, and at times, in early Spring, as many as fifty thousand
flowers have been counted on this Queen of all Roses!
“Roses are of royal birth,
Loveliest monarchs of the earth!
Not the realm of flowers alone,
But human hearts their sceptre own.
Mark what flowers the maiden’s hand
Gathers for her bridal band;
What the sweetest influence shed,
Round the grateful sufferer’s bed;
What with holiest light illume
The grief and darkness of the tomb.”