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THE LADIESaEuro(TM)
KNITTING AND NETTING
BOOK.
SECOND SERIES.
THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING
AND NETTING
BOOK.
BY MISS WATTS.
SECOND SERIES.
Second Edition.
ENTERED AT STATIONERSaEuro(TM) HALL.
LONDON:
JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,
BELGRAVE SQUARE.
1840.
Lessons given in knitting and netting.
For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.
W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves 1
Netted ditto 3
Feather ditto 5
Plain open Mittens 8
Another Plain ditto 10
Annet ditto 11
Honeycomb ditto 13
Matrimony ditto 15
LambsaEuro(TM)-wool ditto ib.
Round Netted ditto 17
Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top 18
Feather Mits 20
Cuffs, Peacock Stitch 21
Netted Cuffs 22
Warm ditto 23
Muffatees 24
Ditto ib.
GentlemenaEuro(TM)s ditto 25
Cushion Cover 26
Sofa Pillow ditto 27
Striped Cushion ditto ib.
Knitted Mat, with Fringe 28
Netted Mat 30
Vase ditto ib.
Table mats 31
Table ditto, in one piece 32
Napkin Ring 33
A Pence Purse, or Jug ib.
Bouquetier. No. 1. 35
Ditto No. 2. 36
Tidy Basket 37
Ladder Stitch Bag 38
Crossed Stitch ditto 39
Netted ditto 40
Fringe ib.
Netted ditto 41
Scarf ditto ib.
Fringe 42
Rug ditto ib.
Carriage Rug 43
Striped Purse 44
Chequered ditto 45
Purse in Round Netting ib.
Matrimony--For a Purse 46
Another ib.
Annet Purse 47
Honeycomb Purse 48
Another Honeycomb ib.
Netted Purse 49
Single Diamond Netting ib.
Treble ditto 50
Knitted Purse 52
Stitches for Purses. No. 1. 53
Ditto. No. 2. ib.
Ditto. No. 3. 54
Ditto. No. 4. ib.
Ditto. No. 5. 55
Stitches for Purses. No. 6 56
Ditto No. 7 57
Bead Netting ib.
Ditto 58
Dice Knitting ib.
Open Fan, for a Quilt 60
Gauffre Fans, for ditto 62
Ribbed Squares, for ditto 64
Open work Fan, for ditto 65
An Open Border 66
Another Border 67
A Last Border, for a Quilt 68
Grecian Border 69
Diamond Knitting 70
Border for a Table Cover 71
Border and Fringe 72
Scarf for the Throat 73
Scarf Edge 74
Scarf 75
Netted ditto 76
Porcupine Boa ib.
Leggings 77
Waistcoat 78
Knitted ditto 79
Warm Tippet 80
Night Cap 82
Ditto 83
LambsaEuro(TM)-wool sleeve 84
Cephaline ib.
Diamond Knitting 85
Another ditto 87
Small Feather Pattern 89
Double Eyelet Knitting ib.
Gouty Shoes 90
To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting 91
Double Knitted Soles 92
LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Boot 93
BabyaEuro(TM)s LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Cap 94
Ditto Hat ib.
Ditto Stockings 95
Ditto Gaiters 97
Ditto Spencer ib.
Ditto Stays 99
Ditto Socks 101
Netted Curtain 103
Brioche ib.
A Blanket 105
Blanket in strips ib.
Netted Lace 106
Puff Netting 107
A Cool Night-cap ib.
Suspenders 108
Parisian Net Knitting 110
Diamond Knitting 112
Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c. 113
Mazaniello Cap 115
Muff 117
Ditto 119
Terms used in Knitting 120
THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.
SECOND SERIES.
_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves._
Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is
long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the
thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
these may be decreased or not according to the size required.
[2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a
pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more
stitches.
_Netted Gloves._
The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
fine.
Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once
in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.
_Feather Gloves._
Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.
Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and
knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb:
after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
knit 1 stitch, increase as before.
When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the
thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb
round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin
the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
stitches.
When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
ribbon in the holes.
[8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not.
_Plain open Mittens._
Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
14, and moderately fine silk.
Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each
other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.
_Another plain Mitten._
On a smaller mesh than the preceding.
Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once
round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the
last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last
additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the
additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the
last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing
to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk
_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
on rather a finer mesh.
_Annet Mittens._
Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice
round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last
additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as
directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.
_Honey-comb Mittens._
Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.
Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for
every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
thumb.
_Matrimony Mittens._
The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.
_Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the
necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
made on the other.
_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Mittens._
This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.
Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
an inch wide.
Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
2 rows with lambsaEuro(TM)-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
Repeat these rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, these
stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
silk, 2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, and 1 of silk.
All the rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
at the top of the first row of silk.
This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.
_Mitten in Round Netting._
Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.
Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added
stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
hand part of the mitten is long enough.
If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.
_Mittens._
With a leaf wreath round the top.
Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
for instance brown and blue.
Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches,
repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
before and finish with a brown round.
Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
and finish with a brown round.
_Feather Mits._
These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool
are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
or a whole skein of wool.
Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.
_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._
Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
required.
Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2
stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.
_Netted Cuffs._
Four skeins of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
stitches, are required.
Net 2 rows of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until
there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in
every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.
Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.
_Warm Cuffs._
Two needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
rows as at first.
Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.
_Muffatees._
Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles;
when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
sew up the part that is in double knitting.
[24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch,
pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2
stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.
_Muffatees._
Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
may be varied at pleasure.
Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
enough cast off and sew it up.
These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.
_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Muffatees._
Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 4 of
white.
Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.
These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.
_Cushion Cover._
This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.
Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
next needle.
When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
surround it with a cord or fringe.
_Sofa Pillow Cover._
Four Needles No. 11.
Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
two rounds form the pattern.
When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.
_Striped Cushion Cover._
Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
the same.
_Knitted Mat with Fringe._
Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until
you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2
inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop
in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
and cast off.
Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.
Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
the edge of the card all round.
_Netted Mat._
To put between plates.
This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch
wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
it tight, (this is the centre).
Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.
_Knitted Vase Mat._
Two needles No. 14.
This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
vol.)
_Table Mats._
These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.
Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.
End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to
within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.
Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
pieces.
_Table Mat._
In one piece.
Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8
rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.
_Napkin Ring._
This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
fine pins.
Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.
_A Pence Purse, or Jug._
Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool of
different colors, are required.
Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and
3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
needle, and sew down the handle.
_Bouquetier._ No. 1.
You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.
Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48
rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
manner.
_Bouquetier._ No. 2.
Four needles No. 14.
Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_,
increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.
_Tidy Basket._
Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.
Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
were left on the opposite side of the basket.
Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
fasten it to the bottom on the inside.
_Ladder Stitch Bag._
Two needles No. 12.
Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
round the top.
_Crossed Stitch Bag._
Two needles No. 12.
Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
needle.
When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
sides.
_Netted Bag._
To hold the ball when knitting.
These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
long.
_Fringe._
Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the
length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
the 6 stitches of plain knitting.
_Netted Fringe._
To go round a bag.
Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
_Cut_ it off of the foundation.
_Scarf Fringe._
To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.
Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.
_Fringe._
Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
fringe.
_Rug Fringe._
Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
inches.
Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
these two rows.
_Carriage Rug._
Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches.
With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before
you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
mat.
_Striped Purse._
Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
is wide enough.
N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
netted in shades of different colors.
_Chequered Purse._
Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
the brown, and the brown over the pink.
_Purse in Round Netting._
Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
_Matrimony.--For a Purse._
Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
_Another._
Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
_Annet Purse._
Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to
twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.
_Honey-comb Purse._
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.
_Another Honey-comb._
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
the end of the row. Next row begin again.
_Netted Purse._
In two colors.
Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
change of color, every row is the same.
_Single Diamond Netting._
On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
purse four inches wide.
Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long
stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
the purse will be once round the mesh.
_Treble Diamond Netting._
On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice
round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in
which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make
the diamond stitches match.
_Knitted Purse._
Four needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1.
Four needles are required.
Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
continue the same until the purse is long enough.
No. 2.
With 2 needles.
Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
No. 3.
With 2 needles.
Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
No. 4.
On 2 needles.
Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd
row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
knitting 1 stitch.
This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
each.
No. 5.
Two needles.
Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
1st row.
No. 6.
Two needles.