The Occupation of Mayaguez
_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl
and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and
tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The
First Kentucky Volunteers._
As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scouts
entered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from our
camp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched his
troop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff.
Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, and
declared themselves subject to his orders.
At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the general
riding at its head, colors flying, and band playing.
We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; but
I, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being in
the procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and
roof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions,
hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in every
square, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas and
bravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung past
them. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy the
appearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host would
have been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come as
conquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstration
of feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highly
dramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the Calle
Candalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the Plaza
Principal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever."
Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left was
seen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tears
streaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudely
made Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struck
dumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first time
that day we split the heavens with a cheer,--lustily and long. The outbreak
was infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till it
seemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of a
girl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married an
American lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story.
[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores,
taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros.]
At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handful
of small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon great
quantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags of
England, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. The
quaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor,
and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standing
in the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none of
these things will ever be forgotten.
From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfy
would have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaff
might have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled,
unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats were
full of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limped
disgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that every
American soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressed
some disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluities
of elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to the
Antilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficiently
clothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities,
and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And that
is what we were there for.
[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez.]
In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and a
half outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August
13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by a
circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching
absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we
grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive
wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ
by way of interlude.
On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on
board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were
quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we
came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed
them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the
regular brigade had not been paid for three months.
* * * * *
Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a
place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms.
Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing
sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical
associations have been accumulating ever since.
It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000,
the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at
San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two
projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and
exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large
quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United
States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three
manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is
excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90° F.
[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.]
The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla,
and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It
has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three
bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely
of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a
theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation,
and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded
in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877.
A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by
two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands of
this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had
from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no
less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and
Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza
del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo
is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It
stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully
clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich
merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between
the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo
that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of
sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms.
The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and
magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a
good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey,
built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The
infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern
construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is
very capacious.
And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war.
[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.]